INTRODUCTION

KNITTING Constructing textile structures by forming a

continuous length of yarn into columns of vertically intermeshed loops WARP KNITTING A row of stitches are made simultaneously using many threads which form loops in the general direction of fabric growth
Tarrat is credited with developing the first efficient treadle-operated warp knitting frame in 1785

TYPES
Usually two type of warp knitting machines are available Difference of principle :The role of Sinker
Tricot sinkers combine the functions of holding-down, knowing over and supporting the fabric Raschel Sinkers only perform f holding down the loops when needless rise

TRICOT

RASCHEL
SINGLE BAR
DOUBLE BAR

ADVANCEMENT TREND
Increase production Flexibility in terms of design and material handling Better control New Technology Combination of Technology

MEANS The new generation warp knitting machines are having Electronic Control system, mainly servo control Electronics in place of Mechanical-electric devices Design versatility using CAD/CAM Improved Machine gauge Use of Digital process control and Data analysis New concepts of Products and designs Control of fine and elastic yarn Improvement of needle material, gauge

ADVANCEMENT TREND
In 2003, the new generation machines in the warp knitting were displayed at ITMA, Birmingham. The machines were equipped with individual motors to feed thread, fabric take-up and rolling-up, with all easy navigation. All machines had network systems with latest computers Dynamic servo motors, the newest electronic control systems opened extreme probabilities for produces and designers of advanced lingerie lace, with an entirely new patterning system ITMA 2011 : Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH, Germany, exhibited a 50-gauge (needles per inch) tricot machine, HKS 2-3 E, operating at 3,200 rpm and producing elastomeric fabric using 20-decitex spandex and targeted for the lingerie market This is the first and finest-gauge tricot machine Produces 20,800,000 loops per minute with 130-inch width, 50 gauge and, 200 rpm

Electronic SOGGING
Sogging is the Heart of Patterning Electronic Sogging is mainly based on Servo Mechanism The summary drive The Karl Mayer electronically-controlled SU guide bar shogging arrangement Electromagnetic type Each pattern bar has its own unit consisting of six eccentric cams that, although mounted on six separate continuously rotating shafts, are not fixed to rotate with them. On either side of each cam is an electromagnet that, when it receives a signal from the microprocessor, locks the cam onto its shaft causing the cam to rotate, moving its push rod forward like a piston so that the roller in front causes the vertical segmented bar to move upwards. At the top of the bar, the vertical movement is transformed into a horizontal shogging motion.

Electronic SOGGING
Steel comb Shogging system Servo Control Electromechanical Type
The guide needles that the force are controlled by servo motor, which moving according to the patterns, and the directions are by dint of the air compressor and the mechanical power

Piezo-Jacquard
A piezoelectric jacquard device which is composed of consists of 1.Piezoelectric bimorph 2.Guide holder 3.Exchangeable Jacquard guide needle Compared to the conventional Jacquard techniques, no displacement takes place with the Piezo-Jacquard System(PLS) but, instead, the Piezo element is activated by a current impulse

Type Working Speed Power (Per Set) Capability Volume

Electromagnetic Jacquard 400r/min 8kw Easy To Be Destroyed Large

Piezo Jacquard 1300r/min 1.5kw Reliable 1/8 Of Electromagnetic Type

Can ld be used on Jacquard raschel machine Multi-bar Raschel machine Double-needle bar Raschel machine High-speed tricot machine

ESS DEVICE
Accurate Feeding Of Delicate Yarns Karl Mayer has recently optimized its two-bar tricot machines by developing a special tension bar for processing fine-count elastane yarns more efficiently with the name Elastane-Security System (ESS) This system guarantees a uniform yarn feed. A prerequisite for this is that the yarn tension between the warp beam and the guide causes the yarns to adhere at the tube. However, as the yarn count decreases, the maximum yarn tension that can be achieved also decreases In order to achieve these low yarn tension levels at fine counts during processing, a modified tubular guide belonging to the new ESS is actively controlled via its own EBA drive The rubber-coated surface, the precision grinding of the tubular guide, and an additional pressure roller guarantee the non-slip transfer of the peripheral speed to the yarns

COMPUTER-AIDED PATTERN

The development of a system to integrate design with production would enhance the performance, comfort, fit, and desirability of knitted garments

Integral knitting machine manufacturers, such as Shima Seiki, have associated CAD software that will accept virtual body images such as those producible with body scanning technology, and then virtually simulated on a 3D image for accurate placement of knit structures

KAMCOS SYSTEM
Integrated and a essential system for all Karl Mayer Warp Knitting Machine
Higher PRODUCTIVITY Highest efficiency during production and resource management, minimum downtimes, extremely short set-up times. Improved QUALITY Top-quality guarantee due to excellent reproducibility, monitoring, visualization and signaling facilities. More FUNCTIONALITY Just-in-time management of a flexible production of different amounts of articles, despite of highest versatility of products

Three Major component MOTION CONTROL PATTERN CONTROL OPERATOR INTERFACE

Additional components: Warp break sensor Fabric defect detection

Motion Control
A well-tried and perfected technology exactly controls the following functions, via electronic drives: Motion of the main shaft for inching speed and rapid motion Control of the yarn quantity of the individual warp beams via different yarn let-off programs Control of the fabric take-up Control of the batching devices

PATTERN CONTOL
The Pattern Control computer belongs to the technical equipment of machines with electronic control of ground guide bars, pattern guide bars and Jacquard bars. This Pattern Control computer meets all the requirements of rapid pattern change and extensive repeat functions

LASERSTOP
END BREAK DETECTOR FOR WARP KNITTING AND RASCHEL MACHINES by Protechna Herbst GmbH & Co. KG
The laser light barriers operate with a visible red-light laser The highly homogeneity of the light beam guarantees a constant sensitivity over the full working width When a broken thread comes out of the warp sheet, it will break the laser beam. The resulting impulse will be digitally processed and the production machine will be stopped immediately Fast and safe detection of broken threads from 12 dtex in the warp sheet or at the needle position Vibration insensitive receiver

SCANNER
THE NEW KNITTED FABRIC SURVEILLANCE DEVICE SCANNER 5390 by Protechna Herbst GmbH & Co. KG The scanner head travels at a speed of 1-2 m/s at a distance of approx 6-7 cm above the knitted fabric. In this manner the fabric can be scanned directly after it has been formed by the needle bar. Working principle is Laser light barriers It can exactly determination of the position of the fault in the fabric Fast reaction time minimizes lengthy faults It can Immediately stop the machine even at high speeds Self-diagnostic system assists in fault finding and repair in case of a technical problem Automatic evaluation of the measured data by means of modern microprocessors

PROCAM
PROCAM 5310-AUTOMATIC OPTICAL INSPECTION SYSTEM FOR TEXTILE MACHINES by Protechna Herbst GmbH & Co. KG
Can be used as online surveillance device for warp knitting and weaving machines Advanced evaluation systems and a special image processing software detect virtually all textile faults exactly at the place they occur As soon as a fault is detected, the machine is stopped immediately Extremely short fault lengths even with difficult to see faults due to the permanent surveillance of the complete fabric width Control of the weft threads on weft insertion machines

SEAMLESS WARP KNITTING

A shaped knit product has advantages over the traditional cut and sewn product in terms of raw material savings, high productivity, higher quality and performance DJ machines from Karl Mayer Seamless warp knitting technology uses two opposing needle bars equipped with compound needles, which are fed yarns by moving guide bars Knitting commences with the knitting of three tubes side by side (sleeve/ body/ sleeve), which are created by knitting on both needle bars and by closing each tube at the edges by knitting The shoulder shape of the garment is created by joining of the knitting of both needle bars in a predefined pattern within the tube When the neck opening has been reached, the cycle starts over again to commence knitting of the next garment upside-down

Santoni also offering is named SWD4/2J double needle-bar raschel knitting machines capable of producing sportswear, lingerie,hosiery

AUXETIC TEXTILES
Auxetic textiles belong to a class of extraordinary materials that become fatter when stretched and are increasingly attaining some prominence in many applications of technical textiles These warp knit structures have been constructed from wales of chain and inlay yarns. The wales are knitted from open loops using thicker, low-stiffness filaments, and a high-stiffness filament is inlaid around the underlap loops Such a construction exhibits auxetic behaviour upon stretching due to the straightening of the high-stiffness filament that becomes fully aligned and causes the open loops formed by the lower stiffness filament to wrap around the straightened high-stiffness filament

CIRCULAR WARP KNITTING

The yarns are threaded through radially perforated rings The shogging movement becomes a rotation of these rings A pattern chain comprises a number of rotational movements of the rings in synchronization with the main mechanism responsible for reciprocating the needles vertically. The rings must perform two distinct rotations and two dwells during a machine cycle The larger the number of rings, the greater the patterning possibilities The cylinder diameter is not critical for the netting applications; this varies in the range of 75-100 mm for the stockings application Medical application fabric can also be produced

CIRCULAR WARP KNITTING

Patterning Mechanism of Circular Warp Knitting

Mechanical design

Servo control mechanism

TECHNICAL WARP KNIT

WEFT Inserted
When the needles are in the lowered position during the warp knitting cycle, a so called open shed effect is created at the back of the machine. It is then possible for a weft yarn, laid across the full width of the machine The weft pins are attached to the needle bar so that the two descend together, releasing the full-width weft at the moment when the weft bits, one above every alternate sinker, advance over the lowered needle heads to insert the weft

In this way, narrow-width fabrics suitable for dishcloths can be produced

WEFT Inserted
Magazine weft insertion

18 or 24 ends of yarn from a stationary creel to an insertion carriage, with a weft insertion speed of 6500m/min is inserted Actually the speed of the weft yarn will be only 320 m/min because multiple wefts are simultaneously being laid onto thec onveyor to be fed individually to the knitting machine. The chains convey the weft to the weft insertion bits at the rate of one weft per knitting cycle

BI-AXIAL WARP KNITTED

Bi-axial warp-knitted (BWK) composite is a kind of textile composite produced with BWK reinforcement which consists of cross plied 0/90 straight fiber tows (warp and weft yarns) and knitted loop yarns (tricot yarns) Structural feature provides not only high tensile modulus and strength in both weft and warp directions for the composite, but also good assistance against impact

MWK
Warp Knitting is an inherently fast process to produce non crimp Multi-Axial Warp Knitted Fabrics In Mayer and LIBA machines, can range from 30 to 90. Besides the oriented fibers or yarns, this process also allows the incorporation of nonwoven fabric layers. One limitation of this process is the damage to the in-plane fibers due to the penetration by the knitting needles

diagonal weft thread layer can be laid at any adjustable angle from 6045 or 9045
Working width up to 245 inches Production speed of 1200 courses /min

Multi-axial warp knit (LIBA) system

Many More.

Stitch Bonded Nonwoven

HD 6/20-65: High performance Raschel machine for high-distance spacer fabric by Karl-Mayer

CONCLUSION
The warp knitting industry has become in recent years, one of the fastest growing industries With the advancement of the digital process control technology may mechatronic principle using high end computers are being used in this technology in place of many mechanical mechanism These technologies are giving the rise of production speed, better quality control, and value for the money to the customers The new technologies like circular warp knitting, multi axial warp knitting are also being capable of producing new types of composites fulfilling the technical textile market demand

REFERENCES
1. Spencer, D. J., Knitting technology: A comprehensive handbook and practical guide (3rd ed.). Cambridge, England; Lancaster, Pa.: Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2001 2. Mermelstein, S. P., Hale, D., Acar, M., Jackson, M. R., Roberts, K., Patterning Servo-mechanism for a circular warp knitting machine, Mechatronics ,Vol. 11, 2001, p 617-630. 3. Pearson, G. J., Pearson, A. W., Ball, D. F., Innovation in a mature industry: a case study of warp knitting in the U.K, Technovorion, Vol. 9,1989, p 657-679. 4. http://www.fibre2fashion.com/konghong/products.asp [Konghong Corporation Limited, China, Leading Piezo Ceramic Application Manufacturer] 5. http://www.warpknitting4u.com 6. Lamar, A. M. T., Powell, N. B., Chapman, L. P., Integrated System to Design/Produce Engineered Knit Garments, NTC Project: S09-NS02, National Textile Center Annual Report: November 2010, Project Website: http://www.ntcresearch.org/projectapp/?project=S09-NS02 7. http://www.karlmayer.com/internet/docs/Kamcos_0908.pdf, KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH, Brhlstrae, 2563179, Obertshausen. 8. Gupta, S., New advances of seamless and warp-knit technologies, ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel, April 2010 issue, 2010. 9. Ugbolue et al., The formation and performance of auxetic textiles. Part I: theoretical and technical considerations, Journal of The Textile Institute, vol. 101, No. 7, July 2010, p 660-667. 10. Ugbolue et al., The formation and performance of auxetic textiles. Part II: geometry and structural properties, Journal of The Textile Institute, vol. 102, No. 5, May 2011, p 424-433. 11. Jin, L., Hu, H., Sun, B., Gu, B., A simplified microstructure model of bi-axial warp-knitted composite for ballistic impact simulation, Composites: Part B, 41, 2010, p337353,available in Science Direct. 12. Kamiya, R., Cheeseman B. A., Popper, P., Chou, T. W., Some recent advances in the fabrication and design of three-dimensional textile preforms: a review, Composites Science and Technology, Vol. 60, 2000, p 33-47. 13. Bailey, D. L., Grow, J. L., (2000): 4. Knitting Overview, Textile Progress, 30:1-2, 41-50. 14. Little, T. J., ITMA Technology: Circular And Warp Knitting, Textile World Asia, December 2011, directly from http://www.textileworld.com 15. www.karlmayer.com

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