Wroclaw

Wroclaws
Gnomes
From protest symbol to
tourist attraction
EURO 2012
Wroclaws preparations
for a summer of football
Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
WROCAW
N21 - 5z (w tym 8% VAT)
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1642-2899
May - August 2011
3
CONTENTS
May - August 2011 wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Arriving & Transport 8
The Basics 12
Culture & Events 15
Where to Stay 21
Restaurants 32
Cafs 50
Nightlife
Bars & Pubs 52
Clubs 58
History 62
Sightseeing
Essential Wrocaw 64
Old Town 71
Ostrw Tumski 72
Centennial Hall and Parks 73
Jewish Warsaw 74
Silesian Churches of Peace 75
Festung Breslau 78
Leisure 80
Shopping 84
Directory 89
Maps & Index
City Centre Map 91
City Map 92
Country Map 94
Tram Map 95
Street Index 96
Listings Index 97
Features Index 98
As you wander around the wonderful old town and environs
the eagle-eyed among you will notice a proliferation of
small bronze vertically challenged figures. These are the
Wroclawskie Krasnale (Wroclaw Gnomes) and they were at
the forefront of Wroclaws ultimately successful defeat of
communism. What? Read more on page 6. Photo: Marcin
Wiktorski , courtesy of City Promotion Office, Municipality
of Wrocaw
Contents
Become a fan of Wrocaw In Your
Pocket on Facebook
In the summer of next year, Poland and Wroclaw will find
themselves beamed around the globe as the best (if not
biggest) football tournament comes to town. Many thought
it was a mistake awarding the EURO2012 finals to Poland.
Well not so fast. The stadium is on target to open this
summer. Check the latest on page 31.
4
Wrocaw In Your Pocket
FOREWORD
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Some say its unfair to compare a relatively unknown
Polish city to its neighbouring touristic behemoths, but
Wrocaw is well-placed among the Hapsburg jewels
of Central Europe, and brings some unique talent to
the table. Yes, Wrocaw holds her own with the likes
of Prague, Krakow and even Vienna. It did indeed
require a long and extremely diverse history to cook
up this Silesian dish, otherwise known as Breslau. The
recipe is a lump of communist city planning, with a
heaping spoonful of Austrian Hapsburg gothic charm, a
teaspoon each of German Hanseatic spice and Silesian
amber, topped off with a dash of Bohemian rhapsody,
and voil: you have Wrocaw.
More and more people are discovering Wrocaw and the
city is humming as a result. The hive of activity includes
a complete refurbishing of what was already a hugely
impressive railway station, a brand new philharmonic
concert hall along the banks of the Fosa Miejska, and a
myriad of projects in preparation for the EURO football
finals which the city will proudly host in 2012.
You can understand why Prussian warrior kings,
Austrian empresses, German chancellors and Soviet
dictators all waged a war or two trying to obtain or
simply keep this jewel of Silesia. In the city centre,
youre never too far from an awe-inspiring church, a
picturesque view that looks to have been crafted with
future postcards in mind, or a bar that will steadfastly
remain open even for a solitary customer. And, like the
gnomes that dot the city and seem to be surreptitiously
placed around every corner, Wrocaw has far too many
sights, sounds, bites and beauties for you to handle all
on your lonesome. And that is why were here, to walk
you through all things must-see and must-do in Polands
third largest and most underrated city.
As always, we bring you the best of Wrocaw and
Poland in general and help you to avoid the irritating
and forgettable, and gobble up the cant misses and
Ill always remember online (downloadable in PDF), in
our handy map, a snazzy new iphone app, and for the
staunch traditionalists in paper form. We appreciate
your comments or feedback online or by email to editor_
poland@inyourpocket.com.
Publisher
WIYP Sp. z o.o.
ul. Paderewskiego 1, 81-831 Sopot
Company Office & Accounts
Basia Olszewska
58 555 08 31
wroclaw@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
Printing CGS
Published 15,000 copies,
3 times per year
Maps
Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM
ul. Wenecja 26/5, 31-117 Krakw,
tel./fax 12 421 24 48
agencja@pod-aniolem.com.pl
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright WIYP Sp. z o.o.
1999-2011. Maps copyright cartographer.
All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced in any
form, except brief extracts for the purpose
of review, without written permission from
the publisher and copyright owner. The
brand name In Your Pocket is used under
license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu
10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212
29 76).
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearl y marked as such. We welcome all
readers comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
Editorial
Writer Craig Turp
Research Manager Anna Hojan
Research Katarzyna Burzyska,
Aneta Roszak, Maria Rulaff
Events Klaudia Mampe, Vaughan Elliott,
ukasz Jankowski
Design Tom Haman
Photography Alex Webber, Rentapocket,
www.wikipedia.pl, Anna Wyrzykowska
Cover Krzysztof Szymoniak, courtesy of City
Promotion Office, Municipality of Wrocaw
Sales & Circulation
Director: Magorzata Drzszcz 606 749 676
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Manager: Marta Ciepy 606 749 643
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Manager: Anna Wyrzykowska 606 749 642
Gdansk/Bydgoszcz
Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 58 555 98 18
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6
Wrocaw In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
They are everywhere in Wrocaw. Like a miniature invading
army they dot the citys doorways, alleys and street corners.
You may well overlook the first dozen or so that cross your
path, but inevitably and often literally - you will stumble
upon them. They are knee-high; they are adorable; and in the
city centre they are simply ubiquitous. Surprisingly, one of
Wrocaws most popular, memorable and iconic attractions
is not a cathedral, not a castle or monument, but a legion of
little people: Gnomes, to be precise. Keep your eyes peeled
as you walk about town and youre bound to notice the little
fellas engaged in a variety of activities from guarding public
space to passed-out drunk. Beloved by local residents and
tourists alike and the object of more photos than the towering
Cathedral, these mini-men have become the unlikely symbol
of this picturesque Polish city.
The gnomes - individually called Krasnoludek (or Krasnal)
in Polish - are mythological dwarf-like creatures that were
common in medieval European folktales and literature. They
are invariably represented as miniature male humans, often
with little potbellies, big round noses, long beards and pointy
red hats. The original word, krasnoludek, appears to be an
amalgamation of Russian (krasny - red) and Polish
ludek (small person or human-like creature).
Gnomes have a long history in Polish folklore, but their
current iconic incarnation in Wrocaw began in the 1980s.
Under communism gnomes became the absurdist calling
card of the Orange Alternative movement an underground
protest movement that used absurdity and nonsense to
stage peaceful, yet subversive protests. Led by Waldemar
Major Fydrych, an artist and art history student at Wrocaw
University, the Orange Alternative wasnt interested in political
ideology as much as buffoonery. During communism, any
anti-establishment graffiti or public art was quickly painted
over by the militia; upon seeing fresh daubs of paint, the
pranksters of the Orange Alternative painted over them again
with...gnomes. From there gnomes became inexorably linked
with the Orange Alternative and Wrocaw, though they began
appearing in other major cities in Poland as well. Detained in
a dz police station for graffiti, Major Fydrych was happy to
explain the gnomes to state authorities in academic terms:
The thesis is the anti-regime slogan. The anti-thesis is the
spot and the synthesis is the gnome. Spoken like a true art
history student. As the Orange Alternative graduated to more
happenings, gnomes began to appear in demonstrations
as well. International Childrens Day on June 1, 1988, was
celebrated in Wrocaw by dozens of locals dressed as gnomes
WROCLAWS GNOMES
Marcin Wiktorski , courtesy of City Promotion Office,
Municipality of Wrocaw
and smurfs, complete with red hats and handkerchiefs, while
an anti-Chernobyl protest saw Major Fydrych handing out
gnome-like headwear to passing pedestrians. As communism
and anti-communism faded away in the 1990s, the gnomes
remained a symbol of Wrocaw.
The first gnome in its modern statuette form was Papa
Krasnal who was placed in 2001 on the corner of ul.
widnicka and ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego (A-4), near the
subway where Orange Alternative demonstrations often
took place. It was commissioned by Agora (the publisher of
Gazeta Wyborcza) to celebrate the history of the Orange
Alternative. Things really took off in 2005 when local artist
Tomasz Moczek - a graduate from the Wrocaw Academy
of Fine Arts created five gnomes. Commissioned by the
Wrocaw City Council, that original quintet consisted of:
Szermierz (B-2), located in Pl. Uniwersytecki, the subway
stati on under the Wrocaw Uni versi ty, (Unfortunatel y
Szermierz disappeared 3 years ago), Rzenik (A-2), on
ul. Jatki, Syzyfki (B-3), two gnomes on ul. widnicka, next
to the Post Office, and Pracz Odrzaski (the name refers
to one of Wrocaws suburbs - Pracze Odrzaskie and is
wordplay - pracz in Polish means washer); the little guy is
near Piaskowy Bridge (C-2) washing something in Odra river.
They soon proved so popular that envious local businesses
got in on the game contracting other artists to produce more.
In almost no time at all the little devils have proliferated to
the point that now were not certain exactly how many there
are. They are rumoured to be running rampant to the score
of nearly 180. On June 18, 2008 the city unveiled another
set of gnomes one blind (Niewidomy), one deaf-mute
(Guchoniemy), and one in a wheelchair (A-3), near the
entrance to the Town Hall. They represent the Wrocaw bez
barier programme which endeavours to raise awareness for
the disabled community of Wrocaw.
All the little statues depict the gnomes engaged in various
activities, often reflecting their particular locations. One of
the most popular gnomes is yczliwek (Well-Wisher Dwarf)
located on the Rynek next to the fountain, on Pl. Gobi, (A-3).
November 21st The Day of Kindness (and Well-Wishers
festival) - is his official holiday, and hes even got his very own
blog and Facebook page. Other popular gnomes are: pioch
(A-3), on ul. w. Mikoaja on the back of Ja tenement house,
Wiziennik (B-2), on ul. Wizienna, on the parapet of the old
prison building, and of course Papa Krasnal (A-4), on the
corner of ul. widnicka and ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego. Costing
about 4,000z apiece, each work has become embedded in
the hearts of the locals and has a GPS device embedded in
its heart - a necessary precaution after one of the beloved
buggers (Rzeznik) disappeared from its post on ul. Jatki a few
years ago. He has since been recovered and is back on display.
Todays Wrocaw gnomes are still a playful tribute to the
Orange Alternative without the politics. Not that it was ever
about politics anyway. The gnomes are not confined to the
city centre, so it isnt really possible to find them all on your
own (although trying to do so can be a fun alternative to
regular sight-seeing). For an easier way to track them down,
the local tourist office - located at Rynek 14 (A-3) - has
produced a map showing where the 30 most central ones
are located. There is also a special, dual-language (Polish
and English) website dedicated to Wrocaws gnomes - www.
krasnale.pl. where you can find their history, photos and
useful information along with downloadable maps with
gnome locations throughout the city. Spend an afternoon
as a gnome-hunter and see how many of the mischievous
miscreants you can spot as you stroll around the city. Happy
hunting.
8
ARRIVING & TRANSPORT
9
By Train
Wrocaws main train station (Dworzec Gowny, B-6) is
presently undergoing major renovation works on the entire
building, including tracks, platforms, facilities and even the
area surrounding the train station. Works are not scheduled
to be complete until 2012.
To deal with this, the city has essentially shut off access to
90% of the station complex and set up a temporary station
building (Dworzec Tymczasowy) at ul. Sucha 10/12
(B-6), on the eastern side of the main station complex. In this
temporary building there are 18 ticket windows and youll find
most everything else you need, including an information point,
3 ATMs (bankomats), 2 toilets (one for disabled people), lockers
and vending machines with coffee and sandwiches. Outside the
building on the sidewalk street vendors have also set up selling
food and drinks, as well as kiosks with phone cards and the like.
Luggage storage is also available here. However, because a
large station complex has been condensed into a much smaller
one, travelers need to allow themselves extra time to deal
with extended queues and general confusion, commotion and
disorientation. This cannot be stressed heavily enough.
The area has been well-marked. If departing from Wrocaw by
train, follow ul. Pisudskiego (B-5) east, following the crowds and
signs to Dworzec Tymczasowy. You will make a right into a
tunnel where there is platform access; you must pass through
this tunnel to the other side to reach the new station building
and ticket windows. If pressed for time, remember that you can
buy tickets from the conductor onboard the train for a small
price mark-up. If you are arriving in Wrocaw, following the signs
to Centrum Miasto - the city centre is pretty straightforward
and will put you on ulica Pisudskiego (B-5).
Wrocaw Temporary Train Station (Dworzec
Tymczasowy) B-6, ul. Sucha 10/12, tel. (+48) 197
57, www.pkp.pl. Q Ticket office Open 24hrs.
One of the citys most impressive buildings is its train
station. Ori ginall y buil t in the years 1855 1857 to
form the starting point of the Oberschlesische Eisen-
bahn (Upper Sil esian Rail way) i t replaced an earli er
structure buil t 1841-1842. I ts desi gner was Royal
Prussian archi tect Wilhelm Grapow and al though i t
had onl y one platform i t was still regarded as the
bi ggest station in Europe. Extended to incorporate
5 new covered platforms i n 1899 the Neo-Gothi c
constructi on features turrets and crenul ati ons
al though much of this will be hi dden from vi ew until
the spring of 2012. As part of a massi ve nationwi de
renovation program the station is the subj ect of a
293 million zl oty redevel opment whi ch will see the
buil ding returned to i ts former gl ory whil e the station
facili ti es themsel ves will be compl etel y modernised.
The surrounding area will also benefit from the devel -
opment wi th new green areas created around a new
transport hub. In the meantime the ti cket of fi ce has
been moved to a temporary buil ding l ocated on the
opposi te si de of the platforms. Gi ve yoursel f a li ttl e
addi tional time to negotiate the di versions whi ch are
currentl y in place.
Train station
courtesy of PKP
By Bus
International buses arrive and depart from the bus terminal,
Dworzec Centralny, immediately behind the railway station
on ul. Sucha (B-6). As you might expect it doesnt make the
greatest first impression; grim and uncouth, the bus station
also serves as the citys unofficial day care centre for drunks
and lunatics, no doubt driven to madness by the overriding
unhelpfulness of the people working at the ticket windows.
The purchase of tickets can be attempted at any number of
windows, each of which has its own overly-complex opening
hours, though we know at least one is always available be-
tween 05:30 and 21:30; for international (midzynarodowe)
tickets, try platform number 4. In Wrocaws bus station youll
also find toilets (open 06:00 - 22:00, 2z - after that use the
automatic ones near the platforms, the cost is 1z), an ATM
just outside the main entrance and a currency exchange
(open 08:00 - 19:00) inside the main station building. Com-
pared to the bus station, the train station is somewhat up-
standing and navigable, with more services on hand. Those
heading into town will likely need to go this direction anyway.
Most of the citys hotels and hostels are within 15 minutes
walk of the bus station and taking public transport doesnt
make a ton of sense unless you know exactly why youre
doing so. If at a loss, jump in a MPT Radio Taxi (71 191 91).
Wrocaw Gwny Bus Station (Dworzec Centralny
PKS) B-6, ul. Sucha 1/11, tel. (+48) 71 333 05 30.
By Car
Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road fatalities,
a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road
surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of traffic and,
most of all, frustrated and aggressive driver behaviour result
in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country.
While the road quality issue is being addressed with EU di-
rectives and funding, the size of the countrys road network
means that it will still be years before results are seen in
many places. Almost all roads outside of urban areas are
a single lane in each direction, meaning traffic is inevitably
bogged down by the fleet of lorries that traverse Poland as
well as the odd farmer in a horse-cart. This results in impa-
tient drivers overtaking each other at high speed and then
braking sharply to avoid oncoming traffic. Be cautious and
keep a safe distance between you and the vehicle in front.
The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities
(60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside ur-
ban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr
on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched
on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit,
replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper
registration and insurance documents. Poland also has
strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2% is the maximum blood/
alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU
citizens may use their home driving licenses as long as they
are valid, however citizens of countries that didnt ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find
their licenses invalid (though that hasnt stopped anyone we
know from driving their girlfriends car). Carry your license and
passport at all times when driving.
One of the only major highways in the country, the A4 con-
nects Wrocaw with Berlin (via Legnica) and Krakw (via Opole
and Katowice). Much of Wrocaws centre is pedestrianised,
meanwhile one-way and seemingly accessible streets that
are actually only available to permit holders make driving in
the centre an absolute nightmare. Poor planning and limited
traffic patterns mean congestion is a major, major problem
as well; call a cab and it might take as much as twenty min-
utes to get to you, though its only a few blocks away. As such,
we suggest you ditch your vehicle at the first opportunity,
which raises the question of where to put it. Free parking
is available at Arkady Wrocawskie (B-5, next to the railway
station, and note only the first hour is free, and although you
can leave your car here overnight, the place is closed from
11pm-6am). The multi-storey car park on ul. Rzenicza, next
to the Sofitel (A-2) charges 6z per hour or 100z day. Some
hotels have limited parking spaces, so check when booking
your room. Street parking is of course available by seeking
out the large blue signs with the letter P on them. Tickets
are available from parking meters and those wishing to park
in the city centre will be charged 3z for the first hour, 3.60z
for the second hour and 4.30z for the third. Thereafter youll
be forking out 3 zeds an hour. Outside of the city centre these
charges sink to 2z for the first hour, 2.10z the second, and
2.20z for the third. After that its 2z per hour.
Guarded Parking A-5, ul. Powstacw lskich 5/7.
Guarded Parking G-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 32.
By Plane
Given that Wrocaw already boasts one of Polands most
efficient (if hardly big and modern) airports, the city should
think itself lucky that a brand new one is being built a few
hundred meters from the current terminal building. It should
open in time for the European Football Championships
in 2012, although whether that means a day before the
tournament starts or a month before, we are not about to
hazard any guesses.
Right now, the sturdy old Wrocaw Nicolaus Copernicus
Airport (in Polish Port Lotniczy im. Mikoaja Kopernika we
Wrocawiu) does a fine job in ushering people in and out of
the city. Just 13 km west of the city centre you will be through
passport control and baggage claim in minutes, at which
stage you will probably start thinking about local cash. We
recommend using one of the ATMs (there were at least three
at the last count) as the currency exchange desk offers what
we might politely term to be not the best exchange rates in
Poland. You will also find press stores, an information desk
(of sorts), a refreshment kiosk and a snack bar. There are also
usually lots of friendly young volunteers in orange t-shirts run-
ning around ready to answer any questions you might have.
The easiest way into town is to jump into one of the taxis sit-
ting outside. Alas that is also the easiest way to be parted with
every penny you might have in your wallet. Instead, take your
time and look for a taxi from a trusted Wroclaw taxi company.
That means, MPT (tel. 71 191 91), Taxi Blues (tel. 71 196 61),
Taxi Plus (tel. 601 70 07 53) and Partner Taxi (tel. 71 196 27).
If you do not see one, call one. The fare into the city centre with
an honest cabbie should be around 40z; a little more at night.
Quite frankly though, given the relatively short distance into
town you might just as well hop on the bus. Tickets cost
2.40zl and can be bought from the press stores inside the
terminal building or from the machine next to the bus stop.
Buses run roughly every half an hour from 05:18 - 23:09
(05:27 - 23:09 on Saturdays and Sundays). Particularly bulky
pieces of luggage warrant an extra charge of 1.20zl but we
have never seen this rule enforced.
For flight and travel information, call tel. (+48) 71 358 13
81. Live arrival and departure information can also be had at
the airports excellent website, www.airport.wroclaw.pl/en.
*Note that the access road to the airport is currently being
widened ahead of the opening of the new terminal. This has
led to some serious traffic jams, and long delays, especially
during the early evening rush hour. Make sure you leave
yourself plenty of time to get to the airport.
Wrocaw Nicolaus Copernicus Airport (Port
Lotniczy Wrocaw im. Mikoaja Kopernika) ul.
Skaryskiego 36, tel. (+48) 71 358 13 81, www.
airport.wroclaw.pl.
10
11
This summer the city has introduced special cyclist friendly lines
(133, 110, 609, 100, 120, 115, 130, 109), with buses adapted
to transit bikes. The destination of most of these lines are the
forest areas surrounding Wrocaw: excellent cycling territory.
Taxis
Rogue taxis are still a problem in Wrocaw especially around
the train station. Make sure that your cab has a rate card in the
window and the driver turns the metre on and you should be fine.
Under Polish law the driver is now obliged to give you a printed
receipt for your fare. In some instances it is possible to pay by
credit card but do ask before hand. On the whole youll pay an
initial 6z fee, before being charged from 3z per kilometre. Note
that after 22:00 youll be paying a premium night tariff. Prices also
rise at weekends and if travelling outside the city limits.
Lux Radio Taxi tel. (+48) 71 196 23, www.luxra-
diotaxi.pl.
MPT Radio Taxi tel. (+48) 71 191 91, www.919.com.
pl. Taxi Blues tel. (+48) 71 196 61, www.taxiblues.pl.
Taxi Plus tel. (+48) 601 70 07 53.
Par tner Taxi , tel .
(+48) 71 196 27, www.
partner-taxi.pl. Partners
high-quality service make
them your best bet for
a cab in Wrocaw. Operating clean cars of the same
distincti ve make, from Partner you can request an
English-speaking driver or childs car seat, and when
youve blown all your cash at the bar you can pay with a
credit card to get home.
Public Transport
Wrocaws public transport system is easy to use and fairly
extensive, with 120 bus lines and 23 tram lines. You`ll rarely
need trams or buses to get around the Old Town, but many
affordable hotels and some sights are located outside the
centre. Major hubs for trams and buses include the main train
station (B-6), Plac Dominikaski (C-3), and Plac Jana Pawa II
(E-4). Buses and trams run roughly from 04:00 to 00:00, with
irregular night buses running after that. Buy tickets from any
kiosk marked Ruch and most marked Prasa (press) for
2.40z. Look for a sign saying Bilety MPK. Most transport
stops, and some trams and buses now have automatic ticket
machines, some of which require exact change to use them.
Press button No1 for a normal full-price ticket, No 2 for a student
ticket. A few major stops now have funky new touch screen
ticket machines, with multi-language displays. Tickets can also
be bought from the driver after 8pm for no extra charge but he/
she will use the presence of a ticket machine as an excuse to
be unhelpful; your other passengers will be easier to negotiate
with if you need change for a large note. Night buses (nocne) cost
2.80z. Note that ISIC or other non-Polish student ID is still valid
for a significant student discount, but you must carry your ID.
Most importantly, remember that tickets are not valid
until you stamp them once inside the tram or bus. If the
conductor catches you without a properly punched ticket,
youll owe the city of Wroclaw 100z if you pay within a week,
or 120z if they dont get the money within seven days. Plus
the price of the original ticket
The best option for tourists is to get the 48hrs (18/9z) or
72hrs (24/12z) ticket which is valid on all public transport
in and around the city.
Schedules posted at each stop tend to be right on the money.
W dni robocze means Monday through Friday and w dni
wolne means Saturday and Sunday.
MiCaR ul. Kamieskiego 12 (Psie Pole), tel. (+48) 71
325 19 49, www.micar.pl. Q Open 08:00-18:00, Sat
08:00-14:00. Sun open on request.
Rickshaws
Rikszoland Rynek, tel.
(+48) 602 43 47 55. A
novel way to get about town
and to see the major sites is
to jump onto one of the rick-
shaws which youll find parked
up at various points around
the main square. These 2-3
seater vehicles will take you on
a tour of the old town area and
even out as far as the airport.
Make sure to agree on a price
beforehand with your driver.
QOpen 14:00 - 02:00.
Car Rental
Budget ul. Skaryskiego 36 (Airport), tel. (+48) 71
353 77 50, www.budget.pl. Q Open 08:00-22:00. Sat,
Sun Open on request.
Germaz ul. Strzegomska 139 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48)
605 23 33 33, www.germazrent.pl. Q Open 08:00-
19:00, Sat 08:00-14:00. Sun Open on request.
Hertz ul. Skaryskiego 36 (Airport), tel. (+48) 71
353 77 43, www.hertz.com.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,
Sat 08:00 - 12:30, Sun 08:00 - 16:00.
Joka B-5, ul. Kociuszki 34
(Paacyk), tel. (+48) 601
54 53 69, www.joka.com.
pl. A wide range of cars from
the baby Fiat Panda to the spacious Mercedes E220 CDi
station wagon. All cars are equipped with power assisted
steering. Satellite navgation systems are also available.
Special rates offered to those who order through the
Joka website. Q Open 09:00-17:00, Sat 09:00-12:00.
Sun open on request.
Avis A-5, ul. Pisudskiego
49-57 (Scandic Hotel), tel.
(+48) 71 372 35 67, www.
avis.pl. Internationally trusted service offering a range
of vehicles from sedan to mini-vans. Avis also has a desk
at the airport (ul. Skaryskiego 36, tel. 601 35 48 11)
but you must arrange in advance to pick up or drop off
a car there. Q Open 08:00-16:00, Sat 08:00-12:00.
Sun Open on request.
E u r o p c a r u l .
Skaryskiego 36 (Air-
port), tel. (+48) 71 358
12 91, www.europcar.com.pl. Offering both short
and long-term rental options with eight different catego-
ries of car available to suit your speci fic needs. Excel-
lence in service with benefits tailored to your individual
requirements. Europcar is present at all Polish airports
including Wrocaw Copernicus. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30.
12
BASICS
13
BASICS
Religion
For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of
Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions
and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national
unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many
turned to the church for solace and during the communist
era underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously
held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul
II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is
beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can
understand. Many Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II
single-handedly started the overthrow of Communism in
Central and Eastern Europe. Small wonder then, that your
average Pole takes Catholicism very seriously. Those used
to the more easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish
enthusiasm a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn
and opulent processions that occur from time to time and
the droves that flock to mass. When visiting Wrocaws many
churchs and cathedrals, tourists should remember that these
are not museums, but active places of worship to be treated
with appropriate respect.
Safety
In general Wrocaw is far safer than most Western cities,
and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply
employ common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travellers
should be on guard against pickpockets; if youre in a bar or
a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not
inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those travelling by
car are advised to use a guarded car park. Robberies on
overnight trains are not unheard of, especially on the routes
connecting Wrocaw with Prague and Berlin; book a couchette
or a sleeper cabin.
provided by embassies and consulates, a list of which can
also be found in the Directory. If its a financial emergency your
hopes will rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks
and many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such
transactions, just keep an eye out for the Western Union logo.
Money
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100z
notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents,
public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar
will often refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying
as coins can be, do carry small change for such moments.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign proclaiming Kantor. Kantors will often
provide better value than the banks in your home country
or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very wary of
Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist
sights. Shopping around will reward you with the best rate.
Since EU ascension and becoming a favoured tourist destina-
tion, prices in Poland have been on the rise, making the country
less of a bargain than it was five years ago. Having said that,
however, prices for food, drink, cultural venues and transport
still remain comparably cheap in contrast to Western Europe.
A ticket to the theatre or cinema will rarely cost more than
20z while admission to most museums costs around 5-10z.
Pri ces i n Poland are still fai rl y competi ti ve despi te
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices.
Market values as of 29th April 2011 based on
1 = 3.94z
Product Price (z) Price ()
McDonald's Big Mac 8.90 z 2.26
Snickers 1.39 z 0.35
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 21.99 z 5.58
0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.79 z 0.71
0.5ltr beer (bar) 7.00 z 1.78
Loaf of white bread 2.19 z 0.56
20 Marlboros 11.40 z 2.89
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.48 z 1.39
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 2.40 z 0.61
Market Values
PLN US$ Euro Pound
2.65z = $1 3.94z = 1 4.42z = 1
1 z $0.38 0.25 0.23
2 z $0.75 0.51 0.45
3 z $1.13 0.76 0.68
4 z $1.51 1.02 0.90
5 z $1.89 1.27 1.13
6 z $2.26 1.52 1.36
7 z $2.64 1.78 1.58
8 z $3.02 2.03 1.81
9 z $3.40 2.28 2.04
10 z $3.77 2.54 2.26
20 z $7.55 5.08 4.52
50 z $18.87 12.69 11.31
100 z $37.74 25.38 22.62
150 z $56.60 38.07 33.94
200 z $75.47 50.76 45.25
250 z $94.34 63.45 56.56
1 000 z $377.36 253.81 226.24
Quick Currency Convertor
Internet Cafes
Intermax A-3, ul. Psie Budy 10/11, tel. (+48) 71
794 05 73, www.imx.pl. Printing, copying and faxing
services also available. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 23:00. 4z/hour.
Navigator B-3, ul. Igielna 14, tel. (+48) 71 344 59
62. Printing and cd-burning available. QOpen 09:00 -
24:00. 4z/hour.
Post
Post Office B-3, Rynek 28, tel. (+48) 71 347 19
38, www.poczta-polska.pl. Typically efficient Polish
post office. Q Open 24hrs.
TNT Wrocawska 33d, Dugoka, tel. (+48) 71 324
03 24, www.tnt.com. Door-to-door service. QOpen
08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 10:30. Closed Sun.
Public Phones
After being virtually wiped out, pay phones in Krakw
have made an inexplicable comeback. As such, many
are new and actually work. Almost all of them require
you use a phone card with an electronic chip, which
can be obtained at most kiosks, but not all, so it may
take some perseverance to track one down. The magic
words are Prosz kart telefoniczn. Thesee calling cell
p cards run down very fast if you arhones, so if you plan
on making many such calls, get the biggest one you can
find. Ring-a-ling.
Mail & Phones
Booze
While Polish beer elicits mixed reports from the foreign
community, Polish vodka stands alongside the best, and the
country is rightfully seen as the ancient home of the wicked
sauce. The elite brands are commonly accepted as being
Chopin and Belvedere, though those who fancy themselves
as connoisseurs of mixology should try swallowing a szar-
lotka - a sweet blend of ubrwka vodka (produced with a
blade of bison grass in the bottle) and apple juice. Drunks
hankering for something a little more fiery should look no
further than ordering a Mad Dog (Wcieky Pies) - a mix of
vodka, Tabasco and raspberry juice; itll leave you seeing
stars. One more to look for, a specialty hailing from Gdask,
is Goldwasser - a sweetish vodka sprinkled with goldleaf.
But stand warned: Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel. If
youre determined to make a prat of yourself then make sure
its not in front of the law. A trip to Wrocaws premier drunk
tank (ul. Sokolnicza 16/20) will set you back 250z for a 6-24
hour stay. In return for your cash expect a strip search, a set
of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling va-
grants. Those resisting arrest will find themselves strapped
down to a bed, One Flew Over The Cuckoos Nest-style, and if
youre luck is really low you may find yourself having the day-
lights beaten out of you by the guards. Refreshment comes
in the form of limitless coffee, though the mug it comes in
will smell of urine for a reason. Credit cards not accepted.
Customs
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take
10 litres of spirits, 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer.
Most countries will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from
Poland. A work of art produced before 1945 is classified as a
cultural good and must be authorised before it can leave the
country. If the gallery or shop cant supply the zawiadczenie
(permission) when you buy the artwork, check with the Wojew-
dzki Konserwator Zabytkw (Regional Curators Office). If a
book was printed before 1945, youll need permission from
the National Library to take it out of Poland.
Electricity
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round
with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from
the US, UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug
convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home, though
if arriving without one, try your luck with hotel reception; they
should be able to point you to an electrical store if unable to
provide a convertor themselves.
Health & Emergency
In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or
public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for
an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the
police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded
to the relevant department. English speaking assistance
is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic
capabilities of the operator.
Between June 1st and September 30th however, English,
German and Russian speakers have the option of using a
separate line specifically designed for foreigners in distress:
dial 800 200 300 from a land-line or 608 599 999 from a
mobile phone for troubles during hightourist season.
If youve woken up to find youve got a raging headache, a
swollen foot you cant put weight on and vague memories of
some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by calling a
private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously long
queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can be found
in the Directory in the back of this guide. Further help can be
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the
Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus
(416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), the
shady Russian enclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Lithuania
(103km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km).
Longest River
The river Vistula (Wisa) is Polands longest river at
1,047km and flows through Krakw and Warsaw before
reaching the Bay of Gdask (Zatoka Gdaska). Wrocaw
sits on the Oder (Odra) River (854km) which flows through
western PL and forms 187km of the Polish-German bor-
der before reaching the Baltic at Szczecin, PL.
Highest Point
The highest peak in Poland is Rysy (2,499m) in the
Tatra Mountains along the countrys southern border
with Slovakia.
Population (2009)
Poland - 38.135.876
Warsaw - 1.709.781
Krakw - 754.624
d - 747.152
Wrocaw - 632.162
Pozna - 557.264
Gdask - 455.581
Katowice - 309.621
Sopot - 38.821
Local Time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in Wrocaw, its 06:00 in New
York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and
19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts
and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.
Twin Towns
Breda, Dresden, Charlotte, Guadalajara, Hradec Krlov,
Izmir, Kaunas, La Vienne, Lviv, Ramat Gan, Skopj e,
Toronto, Wiesbaden
Basic Data
Institute of Meteorology and Water Management,
www.imgw.pl
Climate
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
R
a
in
fa
ll (m
m
)
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
T
e
m
p
e
r
a
tu
r
e
(
C
)
Rainfall
Temperature
14
BASICS
15
CULTURE & EVENTS
Cul turall y Wrocaw has grown into one of the most ex-
ci ting ci ti es in Poland, gi ving Krakws claim to cul tural
capi tal an earnest run for the money. Wi th an esteemed
opera, puppet, pantomime and song theatre troupes, a
clutch of great museums and gall eri es, and a festi val
cal endar luring more hi gh-profil e international acts each
year, Wrocaw has something to of fer everyone. Check
here to see whats on each month, and don t miss the
Nati onal, Ethnographi c and Archi tecture museums, or
Gal eria Awangarda before l eaving town. Great li ve musi c
can regularl y be heard in Firl ej and Szepty musi c clubs,
or to step far outsi de the mai nstream head to CRK.
Enj oy Wrocaw.
Art Galleries
Arttrakt B-3, ul. Ofiar Owicimskich 1/1, tel. (+48)
502 58 19 05, www.arttrakt.pl.QOpen 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.
City Gallery (Galeria Miejska) A-3, ul. Kiebanicza
28, tel. (+48) 71 344 67 20, www.galeriamiejska.
pl.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Admission free.
Galeria Awangarda B- 3, ul. Wita Stwosza 32,
tel. (+48) 71 790 25 82, www.bwa.wroc.pl.QOpen
11: 00 - 18: 00. Cl osed Mon. Admi ssi on 8/4z. Wed
admisson free.
M Odwach Gallery A-4, ul. widnicka 38a, tel. (+48)
71 372 44 96, www.galeriam.com. Also at Stare Jatki
10. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Admission free.
Tkacka Na Jatkach Gallery A-2, ul. Jatki 19/23,
tel. (+48) 71 344 38 78, www.galeria.md4.pl.QOpen
12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
WRO Art Centre B- 4, ul. Widok 7, tel. (+48) 71
343 32 40, www.wrocenter.pl. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Tue 14:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Admission free.
Cinemas
Helios Magnolia Park E-4, ul. Legnicka 58, tel. (+48)
71 355 53 55, www.heliosnet.pl.QBox office open from
09:00 to 15 minutes after last show. Tickets 14-28z.
Lalka Cinema H-3, ul. Prusa 32, tel. (+48) 71 792
44 05, www.odra-film.wroc.pl.QBox office open from
one hour before the first showtime until the last showtime.
Tickets 13/15z.
Lww Cinema ul. Hallera 15 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71
793 50 78, www.odra-film.wroc.pl.QBox office open from
one hour before the first showtime until the last showtime.
Tickets 13/15z.
Warszawa NOT Hall A-5, ul. Pisudskiego 64, tel.
(+48) 71 342 12 46, www.odra-film.wroc.pl.QBox office
open from one hour before the first showtime until the last
showtime. Tickets 13/15z.
Cultural Centres
Impart Art Centre (Centrum Sztuki Impart) D-3,
ul. Mazowiecka 17, tel. (+48) 71 344 28 16, www.
impart.art.pl. Q Box office open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Wrocaw Center for Jewish Culture and Educa-
tion (Centrum Kultury i Edukacji ydowskiej
Fundacji Bente Kahan) E- 4, The White Stork
Synagogue, ul. Wodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 782
81 23, www.fbk.org.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. Admission fee depends on the exhibition, check
website for details.
Many Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthy
command of the English language. Many will also be adept at
other European languages with German being the most commonly
spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have forgotten
the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a
reasonable understanding.
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will often
result in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your
flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth
your time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers.
On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a great
help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination
of letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do in
English. Below we have listed those particular to Polish.
Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels
sounds like on in the French bon
sounds like en as in the French bien
is an open o sound like oo in boot
Basic pronunciation of consonants
c like the ts in bits
j like the y in yeah
w is pronounced like the English v
like the w in win
like the ny in canyon
cz and like the ch in beach
dz like the ds in beds
rz and like the su in treasure
sz and like the sh in ship
drz like the g in George
r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last but
one syllable.
Think youve got that? Here are some words and phrases to get
you started.
Civilities
cze (cheshch) hi/bye
dzie dobry ( jen do-bri) good morning/
afternoon
dobry wieczr (do-bri vyeh-choor) good evening
dobranoc (dobrah-nots) good night
tak (tahk) yes
nie (nyeh) no
prosz (prosheh) please
na zdrowie (nah zdrovyeh) cheers
dzikuje ( jen-koo-yeh) thank you
przepraszam (psheh-prasham) sorry
kocham ci (koham tshe) I love you
Mam na imi (mam nah ee-myeh) My name is
Jestem z Anglii (yehstem zanglee) I am from England
Necessities
Gdzie s toalety? (gdjeh song toalety) Where are the toilets?
Czy mwi pan/pani
po angielsku?
(che moovee
pan/panee po
angyelskoo?)
Do you (male/female)
speak English?
Nie mwi po
polsku
(nyeh moovyeh po
polskoo)
I dont speak Polish
Prosz to napisa (prosheh toh
napeesatch)
Please write it down
Czy mona tu pali (che mohzhnah too
paleech?)
Can I smoke here?
Jedno piwo
poprosz
(yedno peevo poh-
prosheh)
One beer please
Numbers
1 jeden yehden
2 dwa dva
3 trzy tshi
10 dziesi jayshench
General
Airport lotnisko
Train station dworzec pkp
Bus station dworzec pks
Right/left prawo/lewo
One ticket to jeden bilet do
First/second class pierwsza/druga klasa
Language Smarts
Tipping
Polish restaurant tipping etiquette can be confusing for
foreigners. While in other civilised countries its normal
to say thanks when a waiter collects the money, youll be
horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word dzikuje
(thank you), or even thank you in English, is the sign that you
wont be wanting any change back. This cultural slip-up can
get very expensive. We have heard instances of a customer
leaving a 200zl note for an 80z meal and then having to
chase down the cheeky waitress to ask for the change. And
while this is an extreme case, this happens far more often
that youd expect. To put things into context, even though
salaries have risen for wait staff in the last couple of years
thanks to a severe lack of supply, a typical waiter/waitress
would be receiving around 10-15z per hour. The waitress
above assumed that the client wanted to leave a whole days
salary. Nice work if you can get it.
Whats more, the waiter will do his or her best to a) make
you feel deeply embarrassed i f you try to get anything back
b) conveniently disappear having pocketed your change or
c) play the fool and suggest that it is your fault. We suggest
that you only say thank you i f you are happy for the wait
staff to keep the change. Otherwise we advise you to use
the word prosze only when handing back the bill and the
payment. One final tip and this is to demonstrate we are
not completely anti wait staff. I f you add a tip to your credit
card payment the wait-staff have to pay tax on it. Anything
that you give in cash probably isnt declared. So i f you do
receive good service we urge you to reward it and to make
a tip in the form of cash.
Toilets
Generally speaking toilets in Poland come marked with a cir-
cle for women, and a triangle for men. Some restaurants
and bars still charge a nominal fee for use of their facilities;
this is a practice also used in train stations and most public
conveniences. Keep small change handy.
Toilet A-3, Pl. Solny
Toilet B-1, Pl. w. Macieja
Water
Water in Poland is officially safe to drink although the qual-
ity of plumbing in many places can affect the quality of the
water that is delivered to your tap. We therefore recommend
that you use bottled water which is widely available and inex-
pensive. The best known bottled water brands are ywiec,
Cisowianka, Kropla Beskidu and Naczowianka.
May 1 Labour Day
May 3 Constitution Day (May 3, 1791)
June 12, 2011 Pentecost Sunday
June 23, 2011 Corpus Christi
August 15 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary,
also Polish Army Day
November 1 All Saints Day
November 11 Independence Day (Nov 11, 1918)
December 25 First Day of Christmas
December 26 Second Day of Christmas
January 1 New Years Day
January 6 Three Kings
April 8, 2012 Easter Sunday
April 9, 2012 Easter Monday
National Holidays
16
CULTURE & EVENTS
17
CULTURE & EVENTS
Up-to-date events
only at:
the shop. This concert will be recorded to be released as the
album HooDoo Band Unplugged. Q Concert starts at 20:00.
Tickets 15z. Available at www.eventim.pl, Empik, Rynek 50,
A-3 (Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00) and Impart box
office (Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun).
22.05 Sunday
Mikromusic
A-3, Eter, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19, tel. +48 797-
010-193. The music here is a fusion of jazz, trip-hop, funk
with a hint of folk, the lyrics are gentle and poetic coming
from Natalia Grosiak. They were awarded the Sopot Presi-
dent Prize at the Top Trendy music festival in 2008. They
have performed with famous pianist Leszek Mder and
have famous radio DJ Marek Niedwiecki as a fan, definitely
worth the effort. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 29z.
Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik, Rynek 50, A-3 (Open
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
23.05 Monday
Uriah Heep
A-3, Eter, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19, tel. (+48) 797
01 01 93, www.eterclub.pl. Any Heepsters out there? We
suppose there are since, though this group never really broke
out in the US, they still have a big following around these
parts, consistently playing arena-sized concerts in Eastern
Europe. The forbearers of progressive metal, the Heep may
be just as well known for their fantasy album covers as they
are for their few scattered hits like Easy Livin, Sweet Lorraine
and Stealin. Currently touring in support of their new album,
Wake the Sleeper, one can only hope its not an instruction
given at the end of their show. Q Concert starts at 20:00.
Tickets 110/100z. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik,
Rynek 50, A-3 (Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00).
26.05 Thursday
Looptroop
H-3, Alibi, Grunwaldzka 66, tel. (+48) 71 328 29 53.
Looptroop or Looptroop rockers are one of the most popular
European hip-hop outfits and surely the best-known Swed-
ish h-h group. Their strong, often political lyrics are sung
in English and here the group will present compositions
from their 10 albums recorded over the last 10 years. Q
Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 39z. Available at www.
eventim.pl and Empik, Rynek 50, A-3 (Open 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
27.05 Friday
Katie Melua
B-4, Orbita Hall, ul. Wejherowska 34. In 2006 at the
tender age of 22 Georgian-born singer, songwriter and
musician Katie Melua was already the highest selling female
artist in Europe. 2006 at the ripe age of 22. Other weirder
trivia include the fact that there is a tulip named after her.
If that wasnt enough she holds the curious record for the
deepest underwater concert ever performed, at 303m below
sea level. Due to demand this Wrocaw gig has been added
to the Polish leg of the tour which also takes in d, Zabrze
and Warsaw. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 160-230z.
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
10.06 Friday
New Sound of Perfect
Wyspa Sodowa. As Polish rock acts go, they genuinely dont
come any bigger than Perfect. Founded in 1977 their heyday
came in the mid 80s when they were the biggest and best
selling band in the country. As with all rock legends, there have
Theatre Stages
Capitol Music Theatre (Teatr Muzyczny Capitol)
A-5, ul. Pisudskiego 72, tel. (+48) 71 789 04 52, www.
teatr-capitol.pl.QBox office open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun one
hour before performance. Tickets 13-45z.
Contemporary Theatre (Wrocawski Teatr
Wspczesny) A-3, ul. Rzenicza 12, tel. (+48) 71
358 89 22, www.wteatrw.pl.QBox office open 12:00 -
19:00. Sun open 2 hours before performance. Closed Mon.
Tickets 20-32z.
Puppet Theatre (Teatr Lalek) A- 4, Pl. Teatralny
4, tel. (+48) 71 344 12 16, www.teatrlalek.wroclaw.
pl.QBox office open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun two hours
before performance. Closed Mon. Tickets 15-30z.
Opera Stages
Wrocaw Opera (Opera Wrocawska) A- 4, ul.
widnicka 35, tel. (+48) 71 344 57 79, www.opera.
wroclaw.pl.QBox office open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 -
17:00. Closed from June 13. Tickets 10-250z.
Philharmonic
Wrocaw Philharmonic (Filharmonia Wrocawska)
E-5, ul. Pisudskiego 19, tel. (+48) 71 342 20 01, www.
filharmonia.wroclaw.pl.QBox office open 11:00 - 15:00,
15:30 - 18:00, Sun one hour before performance. Tickets
15-60z.
Concerts
12.05 Thursday
Ethno Jazz Festival - Ana Moura
E-4, The White Stork Synagogue, ul. Wodkowica 5, tel.
(+48) 71 782 81 23, www.ethnojazz.pl. A star of fado
musics younger generation, as a teenager she was spot-
ted by Maria da F and after a few years in 2003 recorded
her first album. In 2007 Mick Jagger invited her to sing No
Expectations in front of 30,000 fans at Alvalade stadium,
nice. Her latest album Para Alm da Saudade went double
platinum, nicer. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 50-120z.
Available at Empik, Rynek 50, A-3 (Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 21:00).
17.05 Tuesday
HooDoo Unplugged
D-3, Impart, ul. Mazowiecka 17, tel. (+48) 71 344 28
16, www.impart.art.pl. If the name of the band rings a bell,
thats because it comes from the Junior Wells standard Hoo-
doo Man Blues . Founded by Bartosz Niebielecki, Bartomiej
Miarka and Tomasz Nitribitt, it has now grown into a 7-piece.
Along the way, singer Alicja Jarosz won the first series of Idol
in Poland. To date they have worked with Carlos Johnson,
L.U.C., Wojciech Karolak, Leszek Cichoki and Jurek Styczyki
as well as visiting the Rawa Blues and other festivals all over
Lower Si l esi an I nf or mat i on Cent r e
(Dolnolskie Centrum Informacji Kultural-
nej) A-3, Rynek-Ratusz 24, tel. (+48) 71 342 22 91,
www.dcik.pl. Come here for complete information on
what`s happening in Wrocaw and the surrounding area.
You can also buy tickets to most events here. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Information & Tickets
Nati onal Museum
(Muzeum Narodowe)
D- 3, Pl. Powstacw
Warszawy 5, tel. (+48)
71 372 51 50, www.
mn.wroclaw.pl. Pai nt-
ings, sculptures, engrav-
ings, photographs and handicrafts are exhibited in a
Dutch Neo-Renaissance building from the 19th century.
Both permanent and temporary exhibitions show pre-
cious items from the Middle Ages to the present day
from Lower Silesia, Poland and Europe.
Permanent exhibitions
- Silesian Art from the 12th to 19th century: Stone and
wood sculptures, paintings, objects of artistic craft.
- Polish Art from the 17th to the 19th century: Polish
artefacts and paintings by Gierymski, Grottger, Malcze-
wski and Matejko.
-Polish Art of the 20th century: Paintings, sculptures,
ceramics, glass, photographs.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Also open every last
Tuesday of the month, 10:00-17:00. Admission 15/10z.
Groups over 10 people 5z per person, Sat free. Entry
free with a ticket to the nearby Racawice Panorama.
WRO D- 3, National Museum, Pl. Powstacw
Warszawy 5, tel. (+48) 71 343 88 39, www.mnwr.
art.pl. Traditionally in May and June the National Mu-
seum hosts the WRO Media Art Biennale. Presented in
the museum atrium there are videoworks, objects and
art installations selected from 2000 applications sent
for the festival. Everything on show was created over the
last two years an displayed for the first time in Poland.
27.06 Monday - 25.09 Sunday
Zdzisaw Jurkiewicz Monographic Exhibition
D-3, National Museum, Pl. Powstacw Warszawy
5, tel. (+48) 71 343 88 39, www.mnwr.art.pl. The
first retrospective exhibition of Zdzisaw Jurkiewicz has
been organised to mark his 80th birthday. A painter,
drawer, photographer and author of artistic manifestos,
hes one of the most remarkable artists of the post war
Wrocaw era and this is a review of his whole work from
the 50s onwards.
Japan - Land of Gold D-3, National Museum, Pl.
Powstacw Warszawy 5, tel. (+48) 71 343 88
39, www.mnwr.art.pl. The aim of this exhibition is to
show the various methods employed in working gold in
sculpture, painting and handicraft. Its a chance to see
tools used to prepare golden decorations and a film
showing the stages in creating gold flake 0.001mm thick.
03.12 Friday - 26.06 Sunday
Furniture Game Parlour
D-3, National Museum, Pl. Powstacw Warszawy
5, tel. (+48) 71 343 88 39, www.mn.wroclaw.pl.
With all the items coming from the National Museum in
Wrocaw, this exhibition has collected a number of pieces
of furniture from the last 500 years which were used in
parlour games - musical chairs anyone? Q Admission
15/10z. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun
10:00-17:00). Closed Mon, Tue. Also open every first
Tuesday of the month, 10:00-17:00.
03.07 Sunday - 04.09 Sunday
Non Sola Scripta
B-2, University Church
of the Blessed Name
of Jesus, pl. Uniwersy-
tecki 1. This festival is
also known as Wrocaw
Organ Summer and con-
certs will take place every
Sunday in the late baroque
University Church, 250m
from Market Square, and
the Town Hall. For those
not familiar with the form
it is said to be the best,
most atmospheri c en-
vi ronment to meet thi s
wonderful music for the
first time. The title translates as not just what is writ-
ten and there will be 10 concerts with Polish and foreign
artists. Besides organ recitals there will be a number of
chamber concerts with piano and traditional oriental
instruments. The programme looks like this:
03.07 - Marek Stefaski (Poland) - organ
Domkantorei - Schleswig under the direction of Rainer
Selle(Germany)
10.07 - Jzef Serafin (Poland) - organ
Claribel - clarinet quartet (Poland)
17.07 - Ignace Michelis (Belgium) - organ
Matthias Schluebeck - Pan Flute (Germany)
24.07 - Sergio Orabona (Italy) - organ
31.07 - Matthias Janz - organ (Germany)
Aleksandra Kubas - soprano (Poland)
Zdzisaw Madej - tenor (Poland)
07.08 - Park, Jeon Eon - organ (S. Korea)
Ji, Suk - Mi - soprano (S. Korea)
14.08 - Christoph Geiser - organ (Switzerland)
K. Lipiski Musical Academys Choir (Poland)
21.08 - Bogusaw Raba (Poland) - organ
Mantra - Trio - Artistic director Romuald Erenc (Poland)
28.08 - Vincent de Pol (Germany) - organ
Hanna Turonek - flute (Poland)
04.09 - Roman Perucki (Poland) - organ
Domini Cantores (Poland) in squad:
Ks. Piotr Sobierajski - tenor
Rafa Kobyliski - tenor
Zdzisaw Madej - tenor Q Concerts start at 19:30.
Tickets 10/15z. Available before the concerts.
National Museum Non Sola Scripta
18
CULTURE & EVENTS
19
CULTURE & EVENTS
been rough times too - in 1992 after a row between vocalist
Grzegorz Markowski and leader, founder member and guitarist
Zbigniew Hoyds the band broke up only to reform a year later
without Hodys. This concert has been organised to celebrate
10 years of Radio Wrocaw and so groups like Maleczuk & Psy-
chodancing, Acid Drinkers, Muchy and Maleo Reagge Rockers
will fill out the bill, playing their own versions of Perfect songs.
Its a continuation of the New Sound of... project which has
previously featured Lech Janerka and Republika. Q Concert
starts at 19:00. Tickets 45z. Available at www.eventim.pl and
Empik, Rynek 50, A-3 (Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
17.06 Friday
WrocLove - Bobby McFerrin
B-4, Orbita Hall, ul. Wejherowska 34 (Fabryczna). Bobby
McFerrin has done more than Dont worry, Be Happy, hes
actually the winner of ten Grammy awards. One of the most
popular singing improvisers, he has worked with Chick Corea
and Herbie Hancock and is something of an ambassador
for jazz and classical music. McFerrins voice can stretch
over four octaves, which sounds a bit painful, so dont try
it at home! Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 50-200z.
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
18.06 Saturday
WrocLove - Ayo
Wyspa Sodowa. Ayo makes a no doubt triumphant return to
Poland to promote her music. Triumphant as the last time she
visited tickets sold out immediately. Expect the same as fans
queue to hear her original hit Down on my knees and others
from her first gold selling album. Q Concert starts at 19:00.
Tickets 50-120z. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik,
Rynek 50, A-3 (Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
19.06 Sunday
WrocLove - Yann Tiersen, Archive
F/G-3, Wyspa Sodowa. Yann Tiersen comes to Poland
once again for just one concert in Wrocaw. A French multi-
instrumentalist, virtuoso of violin and accordion, he performs
minimalistic folk and rock. Not the only star the night, Tiersen
will be followed by Archive. Their music has been described as
somewhere between Pink Floyd and Radiohead. Taking that
in an alphabetical sense, it would seem to indicate we should
expect something like Queen, lets see. Q Concert starts at
19:00. Tickets 90z. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik,
Rynek 50, A-3 (Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
29.07 Friday
Nick Cave & Grinderman
F/G-3, Wyspa Sodowa, www.enh.pl. Last year the musi-
cal star of the Era New Horizons International Film Festival
was Mike Patton, this year its going to be Nick Cave. The
Australian singer, poet, writer, composer and songwriter
reached the height of his fame with the Bad Seeds, but if you
havent checked out his earlier epic work with The Birthday
Party, you should do. This time he will perform with Grinder-
man, a streamlined version of the Bad Seeds with Warren
Ellis, Martyn Casey and Jim Sclavunos. Q Tickets 100-190z.
Available at www.ticketpro.pl. Available at Empik, Rynek 50,
A-3 (Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
Exhibitions
24.02 Thursday - 22.05 Sunday
Architecture As A Language. Daniel Libeskind
A-2/3, Architecture Museum, ul. Bernardyska 5, tel.
(+48) 12 633 48 22, www.ma.wroc.pl. Architects have to
famous for me to have heard of them, and Ive heard of Daniel
Libeskind. World famous designer of urban and architectonic
projects, his output includes important cultural facilities like
museums, concert halls but also congress centres, shopping
malls, universities, houses and hotels. Q Admission 10/7z.
Groups over 10 people 5z per person, Wed free. Open 11:00
- 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00-19:00. Closed Mon.
29.03 Tuesday - 28.08 Sunday
Japanese Metalwork
D-3, National Museum, Pl. Powstacw Warszawy 5,
tel. (+48) 71 343 88 39, www.mnwr.art.pl. 19th-century
Japanese metalwork was much in demand in Europe and
America at the time. This is a collection of various objects
from incense burners to animal statuettes to ornamental
plates. The decoration is inspired by nature, mythology and
history and is as intricate as you could wish for. Q Open
10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Also
open every last Tuesday of the month, 10:00 - 16:00. Admis-
sion 15/10z. Groups over 10 people 5z per person, Sat free.
31.03 Thursday - 31.08 Wednesday
Dagarama. Back to the Future
A-2/3, Architecture Museum, ul. Bernardyska 5, tel.
(+48) 12 633 48 22, www.ma.wroc.pl. Jan Gluszak is
something of a poet and philosopher. Hes also an archi-
tectural guru and this show includes drawings from the
architecture museum as well as his home in Tarnow. Come
and find out about Gluszaks architectural philosophy or
Dagaramas. Q Admission 10/7z. Groups over 10 people
5z per person, Wed free. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 -
16:00, Thu 12:00-19:00. Closed Mon.
23.04 Saturday - 13.06 Monday
Breakin the Wall
Public spaces in Wroclaw, tel. (+48) 71 790 25 82,
www.bwa.wroc.pl. Urban Arts top names from all over the
world including Mudwig, Dem, Fefe Talavera, Vova Vorotniov,
Escif, Erica Il Cane, Zosen, SickBoy and Jiem cogitate on
the idea of identity for the generation who grew up after
the fall of the Berlin Wall, that will be the wall in the title,
then. A number of large murals will be created until June on
various walls in Wrocaw, in Nadodrze and its surroundings.
Q Admission free.
Jerzy Wooszynowicz
A-2/3, Architecture Museum, ul. Bernardyska 5,
tel. (+48) 12 633 48 22, www.ma.wroc.pl. Jerzy
Wooszynowicz is a painter, draughtsman and industrial
designer. Best-known locally for his wild animal paintings on
the walls of Wrocaw, here you can see works showing the
ruins of the post-war city and other later aspects of Wrocaw.
Also included will be the artists surrealist paintings and draw-
ings. Q Admission 10/7z. Groups over 10 people 5z per
person, Wed free. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 16:00,
Thu 12:00-19:00. Closed Mon.
01.07 Friday - 30.07 Saturday
Arttrakt Gallery Artists Exhibition
B-3, Arttrakt, ul. Ofiar Owicimskich 1/1, tel. (+48)
502 58 19 05, www.arttrakt.pl. This exhibition presents
work by artists connected with the Arttrakt gallery includ-
ing pieces from established names like Tadeusz Dominik,
Kiejstut Berenicki, Jacek Sroka, Ireneusz Walczak, as
well as the young guns: Izabela Chamczyk, Piotr Kmita and
Anna Halarewicz. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Admission free.
29.05 Sunday - 03.06 Friday
XIII Simcha Festival
tel. (+48) 666 90 06
53, www. si mcha.
art.pl. Over its 12 edi-
tions this festi val has
shown Jewish culture to
Wrocaw and the lower
Silesian region and this
ti me i ts no di f ferent.
The main aim is to get
to the roots of Jew-
ish culture, showing its
beauty and traditions.
However, its also about
breaki ng stereotypes
as well as teaching respect and tolerance. The history
of Jewish Culture Simcha began after the opening of
The White Stork Synagogue (1998) E-4, ul. Wodkowica
7. Beginning from 1999 the festival has run every year
since promoting culture, history and Jewish art. For six
days, festival participants will gather for international
shows, lectures and concerts, workshops on Hebrew
and Yiddish language, Jewish dances and art workshops
for kids. All workshops are free, you dont have to sign
up, but for more info write to festiwalsimcha@gmail.
com This year the artistic director will be Stanisaw
Rybarczyk with Dominika Kawalerowicz and Joanna
Lisek; they will be connecting their passions and pre-
paring a programme which contains events that call on
the rich local Jewish tradition as well as more modern
cultural traits. There should be plenty of interest with
lots of guests from abroad who will take the chance to
worship in the renovated Synagogue. On Sunday May
29th the 13th Simcha will be inaugurated with a concert
by Vienna cantor Samuel Barzilai, organist Piotr Rojek
and The White Stork Synagogue Choir under the direc-
tion of Stanisaw Rybaczyk. Also on Sunday May 29th
in the square in front of The White Stork Synagogue
there will be an opportunity to meet Malka Kafka, host
of the TV cookery show about kosher and ecological
cuisine. On June 2nd Tanja Segal, the only woman-rabbi
in Poland, will come from Krakw to give a lecture about
Mat Micwa. The star of this years concerts will be
Chava Alberstein. She was born in Szczecin in Poland,
but her parents moved to Israel when she was 4 and
now shes celebrating 50 years on stage. No slouch in
the studio, she has released 60 albums, 54 of them
in Hebrew and has won the Kinor David award, a type
of Israeli Grammy, 6 times. Most events take place
in the White Stork Synagogue and buildings nearby
owned by the Wrocaw Jewish Community. Only Wojciech
Wilczyks photo exhibition Theres No Such Thing As
Innocent Eye is presented in Dworek Romaski, B-2,
Pl. Nanki era 8 (Open 10:00 - 18:00. Cl osed Mon.
Admission 2/1z). The idea for the show was simple:
Wilczyk photographed old synagogues and synagogue
remains, often adapted into schools, warehouses and
post offices. At the end of this years Simcha Festival,
organisers will hold a culinary event on the renovated
yard in front of the White Stork Synagogue about 150
people will be able to sit down at the table and try
sabbath meals prepared by Hotel Orbis chef, Tadeusz
Hupa.QTickets 30-80z. Available at Lower Silesian
Information Centre, A-3, Rynek-Ratusz 24 (Open 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun).
Simcha Festival
Jakub Kamiski and
Krzysztof Stanik
20
CULTURE & EVENTS
21
WHERE TO STAY
SPLURGE: The most expensive suite in town remains
that at the Monopol, complete with balcony specially
built for Hitler to address the crowds below back in 1937.
The Radisson remains a top choice for big spenders: not
least for its dining options, while the more intimate Gra-
nary offers a more boutique-like yet still luxurious stay.
CHEAP: In Wroclaw, cheap never has to be a byword for
poor quality. A stay at the now legendary Mleczarnia
hostel is highly recommended, while Boogie Hostel
and the Boogie Hostel Deluxe remain student faves.
If youre looking for cheap but want more than a hostel
take a look at Cilantro which offers high standards at
very competitive prices.
LADS: The Campanile hotel is a decent option: big and well
priced they are happy to take biggish groups, likewise the
Scandic and Novotel. If the budget is a bit tighter head for
Nathans Villa Hostel or the Avantgarde: both a bit bigger
than your average hostel and both attract lively crowds.
COUPLES: Europeum is a class choice at a price
that wont break the bank while if youre really looking
to impress check out the Monopol, very possibly the
citys signature hotel with an on-site spa, wine bar and
excellent restaurant.
FAMILIES: An apartment should be your first choice and
Leopart and Capital Apartments have a fine selection.
If you want a hotel we suggest checking out our booking
service online at inyourpocket.com/poland: where you
will usually find a number of places offering free stays for
kids depending on how busy they are. Note too that the
Mleczarnia hostel is happy to accommodate families
with kids in its private rooms.
Accommodation at a Glance
No matter what end of the price spectrum youre looking at,
in Wrocaw you have nothing but choice. The market is posi-
tively flooded with hotel rooms (well over 3,500), with several
new options opening each year. As such, special promotions
abound and the rack rate is not always what you pay. Which
is why we suggest you compare rates online using the Hotel
Calculator function on our website - poland.inyourpocket.
com - to find the best daily rates based on your own personal
criteria; youll be surprised by the results and you can thank
us later. As for the prices below, all include VAT (8%) and
breakfast unless otherwise indicated. Hotels list their prices
in euros or local currency. Youll be charged according to the
exchange rate of the day and expected to pay in zoty.
Cream of the Crop
Monopol (Hotele Likus) A-4, ul. Heleny Modrzejews-
kiej 2, tel. (+48) 71 772 37 77, www.monopolwroclaw.
hotel.com.pl. First opened in 1892, the neo-Baroque Monopol
Hotel became one of Wrocaws most fabled and recognisable
landmarks thanks to a guest list including Greta Garbo, Marlene
Dietrich, Adolf Hitler and Pablo Picasso, as well as popular appear-
ances in film and television. After a lengthy renovation courtesy of
the acclaimed Likus hotel group, the Monopol is back with a full
five stars pinned on its epaulets. 121 rooms come furnished with
turn-of-the century antiques, including eight exquisite suites. In
addition to top business facilities, Monopol is home to one of the
most enticing spa and wellness centres in Wrocaw (see Leisure);
add to the package an exclusive wine bar, Italian delicatessen, bar
and restaurant amongst top shelf retail spaces and this legend
is alive and living well. Are you? Q121 rooms (107 singles 550 -
950z, 107 doubles 550 - 950z, 14 apartments 900 - 2500z).
PTHAUFGKDCwW hhhhh
Radisson Blu Hotel, Wrocaw
Purkyniego 10, PL-50156 Wrocaw, Poland
tel: +48 71 375 0000, fax +48 71 375 0010
reservations.wroclaw@radissonblu.com
www.radissonblu.com
Festivals
07.05 Saturday - 08.05 Sunday
Wroclaw Fine Beer Festival
Castle Cultural Centre, Pl. witojaski 1 (Fabryczna),
tel. (+48) 71 397 02 06, www.festiwaldobregopiwa.
pl. As we all know the Poles like their beer with per capita
consumption more than 90l a year. Most of the market (80%)
belongs to the major breweries, but this festival is about
meeting lesser known brands, often from small local brewer-
ies from Poland and abroad. Come and found out about the
history of beer, its varieties and how it goes with different
types of food. On the first day from 14:00 to 19:00 theres
also the chance to take part in home brew beer making
workshops. You dont have to sign up, just turn up and get
stuck in.QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Admission free.
01.07 Friday - 28.07 Thursday
Brave Festival
www.bravefestival.pl. In 2011 the Brave Festival will take
place for the 7th time, giving the chance to meet authentic
cultures, forgotten traditions, mysterious rites and art from
many distant corners of the world. As every year the capital
of Lower Silesia (Wrocaw) will be visited by native artists
and representatives of disappearing cultures that you wont
be able to meet at other festivals or even on the internet.
To complete the line-up the organisers often spend months
on long journeys, talking with ethnologists, journalists and
travellers. Thats why the festival audience gets unmissable
opportunity to see exceptional and diverse projects. Side
events will include exhibitions, documentary movies, the
Brave Kids project, workshops and meetings with artists. The
sub-title of the festival is Against banishment from culture
and it sums up proceedings nicely - to save endangered
traditions from the oblivion of bland 21st century globalisa-
tion. Phew. Q Ticket prices were undecided at the moment.
Please check our website for updates.
Sport
U18 European Basketball Championships
www.u18men.fibaeurope.com. Wrocaw hosts this years
U18 European Championships, having co-hosted Eurobasket
in 2009. Over 10 days of competition we will see 16 national
teams play 70 games, all transmitted to 23 countries. The
tournament will be played in two venues: Orbita Hall, B-4,
ul. Wejherowska 34 and the bigger AWF Sports Hall, Al. Pa-
derewskiego 35 (rdmiecie). Q Ticket prices were unde-
cided at the moment. Please check our website for updates.
03.09 Saturday
Monster Jam
Wrocaw Stadium, Al. lska 1 (Fabryczna). One of the
first big events in the stadium built for EURO 2012, Monster
Jam is a a big-wheeled pick-up truck affair. Methanol powered
engines produce up to 1500BHP and this competition will
see 10 top USA teams, including icons like Grave Digger and
Maximum Destruction, hmmm. There will be two categories:
the first is a time trial race over two circuits, the second part
is what everybodys waiting for - freestyle, of yes. 90 seconds
of crushing wrecked cars and spectacular jumps. Judges
will figure out who was the best before the machines will
go on display close up at the free to enter the Pit Party. 270
dumper trucks have brought 6500 tones of sand and clay
to form the track and hills to make the acrobatics possible,
wow. Q Event starts at 15:00. Tickets 109-123z. Available
at www.eventim.pl.
10.05 Tuesday - 12.05 Thursday
Juwenalia 2011 - Wittigowo
Wittigoto Campus, ul. Edwadra Wittiga (Dbie), www.
juwenalia.org. Lots of studenty goings on here with a
concert, charity events, sporting activities and much more.
On 10th May from 16:00 there will be a DJ event featuring
Robert M, Dj Micro, Projekt P.I.W.O. The following day from
16:00 enjoy an Irish dance performance with Kumka Olik and
Hurt. The final day from 15:00 there will be a concert featuring
Rahim, L.U.C., Pablo Pavo and Blenders. Q Admission free.
13.05 Friday
Juwenalia 2011 - Wyspa Sodowa
B-2, Wyspa Sodowa, ul. Wyspa Sodowa 1. Something
new in Wrocaw this year for Juwenalia. This time there
wont be huge Polish stars and, therefore, admission will
be free. So far the artists confirmed will be: Vavamuffin,
ona, Hope, Paprika Korps, Junior Stress and Road Trips
Over. Q Concerts start at 12:00. Admission free.
16.05 Monday - 22.05 Sunday
Juwenalia 2011 - Water Party
Oder River. There will be parties on a boat sailing on the
River Oder from 20:00 up to 00:00 or 01:00 depending
on which option you choose. The price includes a sau-
sage, 2 cold drinks with energy drinks, DJ and dancefloor.
To top it all there will be a beer stand at 3,5z a pop on
the ship. Q Event starts at 20:00. Admission 49/42z.
Reservation on rejsy@juwenalia.org.
Juwenalia 2011
22
WHERE TO STAY
23
WHERE TO STAY
Best Western Prima A-2, ul. Kiebanicza 16-19,
tel. (+48) 71 782 55 55, www.bestwestern-prima.pl.
A modern hotel occupying a quiet corner of the Old Town.
Striking a neat balance between business and pleasure Best
Western offers top class conference facilities, fitness studio
and a quality onsite restaurant. A glass lift whisks guests to
smart rooms furnished with floral touches. Q79 rooms (78
singles 450 - 470z, 66 doubles 530z, 1 apartments 700z).
PTJHA6UFLGKDW hhhh
HP Park Plaza B-1, ul. Drobnera 11-13, tel. (+48) 71
320 84 00, www.parkplaza.pl. A huge glass and marble
affair, the HP Park Plaza sits on the banks of the Odra River
and proves an excellent conference venue. Well appointed
rooms feature wood panelling, plastic flowers and huge
windows to savour the riverside views. Q177 rooms (156
singles 420 - 650z, 156 doubles 470 - 650z, 19 suites
700z, 2 apartments 1000z). POTHAR6UG
KDw hhhh
Mercure Panorama C-3, Pl. Dominikaski 1, tel.
(+48) 71 323 27 00, www.accorhotels.com. Large,
colourful rooms come equipped with bathtubs, while the
apartments feature fl oor to ceiling windows. Attached
to the corner of a shopping centre, Mercure is fiercely
favoured by the business community. Top marks. Q150
rooms (144 singles 225 - 640z, 144 doubles 225 - 640z,
6 apartments 395 - 810z). Breakfast 59z. PTJHA
R6UGKW hhh
Orbis Wrocaw E-6, ul. Powstacw lskich 7, tel.
(+48) 71 361 46 51, www.orbis.pl. A tall hotel with equally
high standards. Britains Prince Andrew stayed here a few
years back, and no doubt enjoyed the charming service and
hotel swimming pool. Rooms come with air-conditioning,
mini-bar and pay TV with plenty of saucy channels to pick
from. Q294 rooms (41 singles 175 - 419z, 248 doubles
225 - 469z, 5 apartments 529 - 609z). Breakfast 40z.
PTHAR6UFLGKDCW hhhh
PURO Hotel Wrocaw E- 4, ul. Wodkowica 6, tel.
(+48) 71 772 51 00, www.purohotel.pl. I f there was
ever a hotel worthy of the name, Puro Hotel is techno-chic.
Fresh from its grand opening on the 1st of April, Puro is
awash in amenities and technology. The rooms, while small,
offer the latest gadgets, links, plug-ins and media. The free
iPads available in the lobby are a sign that Puro has made
modern technology an efficient priority. Each room has free
internet and phones (even international calls) coupled with
an enormous LCD screen available for interface with gaming,
internet, USB ports and international satellite cable. There is
even a standard control panel allowing you to adjust every-
thing from lights, room humidity and temperature. The lobby
and caf share the same smart and modern dcor as the
rooms and the prices are quite competitive considering its
central location and techno perks. Book a couple of weeks
in advance during peak seasons and weekends. Q102
rooms (102 singles 200 - 520z, 97 doubles 240 - 560z).
PTHAR6UGW hhh
Qubus Hotel Wrocaw B-3, ul. w. Marii Magdaleny
2, tel. (+48) 71 797 98 00, www.qubushotel.com.
One of our favourite hotels in the city and one that offers
quality from top to bottom - literally. In the basement, an
excellent swimming pool, on the top floor a vast presidential
suite featuring stripped wood floors, kitchen and lounge
and a terrace overlooking the church opposite. Nothing
less than an excellent deal. Q83 rooms (80 singles 145
- 177, 48 doubles 177 - 199, 3 apartments 227 - 346).
PTJHAR6UFGKDCW hhhh
The Granary La Suite Hotel Wroclaw City Cen-
ter B- 4, ul. Mennicza 24, tel. (+48) 71 395 26 00,
www.thegranaryhotel.com. A shell of its former sel f
after Festung Breslau, this historic 16th century brewery
building has been reconstructed and conceived as a city
centre luxury boutique hotel - the only one of its kind in
Wrocaw and quickly earning a spot in the Small Luxury
Hotels of the World collection. Consisting of 47 spatially
unique suites which adapt to the buildings tapering roof
letting in lots of light, each comes with separate dining,
li vi ng and sl eepi ng zones, custom-desi gned furni ture,
wireless internet and satellite TV, while the upper floor
duplex suites also come with fully equipped kitchenettes.
Additional services include the restaurant, spa, fitness
centre and business facilities, as well as valet parking,
chauffeur and room services. An experience youre un-
likely to forget with a wow factor of five, everything at The
Granary is tailored to your needs, and the expectation is
that youre super-needy; so go ahead and get a foot rub
while they put grapes in your mouth. Youre on vacation,
dammit. Q47 rooms (40 singles 110 - 200, 40 doubles
130 - 240, 7 apartments 220 - 330). Breakfast 15.
PTHAR6UFGKDW hhhhh
Upmarket
Art Hotel A-2, ul. Kiebanicza 20, tel. (+48) 71 78
77 100, www.arthotel.pl. A plush boutique hotel found
on one of Wrocaws most engaging streets. Modern rooms
come with personally controlled air-conditioning, mini-bar
and satellite TV, and feature a chic upmarket aesthetic.
Vaulted cellars dating from medieval times house the hotel
restaurant. Q80 rooms (18 singles 320 - 700z, 56 doubles
420 - 740z, 5 suites 430 - 740z, 1 apartments 600 - 940z).
PTJHAR6UFLGKW hhhh
110 air conditioned rooms
guarded parking
restaurant and bar
conference rooms
ul. Jagiey 7, 50-201 Wrocaw, tel. +48 71 326 78 00, fax +48 71 326 78 01
e-mail: wroclaw@campanile.com.pl, www.campanile.com.pl
Platinum Palace ul. Powstacw lskich 204, tel.
(+48) 71 324 99 00, www.platinumpalace.pl. Wroclaws
five-star hotel scene gets an almighty kick in the rear. This place
was - when built in 1906 - the finest private house in the city.
Having served for a time as the Wroclaw Academy of Music it
has been lovingly restored and converted with both taste and
style into the a breathtaking hotel. For while the exterior remains
classical, the interiors (the rooms especially) are modern and
even futuristic. Bold, certainly. It might cost a fortune to stay here
but its worth every penny. Q45 rooms (40 singles 350 - 450z,
35 doubles 380 - 480z, 5 apartments 749z). Breakfast 80z.
PTHAR6UFGKDwW hhhhh
Radisson Blu C-3, ul. Purkyniego 10, tel. (+48) 71 375
00 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-wroclaw. Overlook-
ing a quiet park rooms come with clean, light colours, heated
bathroom floors and a telephone next to the toilet. Stay in
the business rooms and youll have newspapers delivered to
your door and dressing gown and slippers to pad around in.
Facilities include a gym, fantastic restaurant and Sqwiggles
Bar - where expert bartenders mix lethal cocktails for off-
duty businessmen. Q162 rooms (13 singles 270 - 690z,
144 doubles 280 - 890z, 5 apartments 650 - 1100z).
PTJHAR6UFGKDW hhhhh
Sofitel Wrocaw Old Town A-3, ul. w. Mikoaja 67,
tel. (+48) 71 358 83 00, www.sofitel.com. Outstanding
quality inside a modern glass marvel. Ultra-modern fittings
include Bang & Olufsen sound systems, marble bathrooms,
jacuzzis and dressing gowns. Le Louis De-Or Bar and the
Pan Tadeusz and Lounge restaurants are attached to an
impressive atrium. Q205 rooms (189 singles 290 - 799z,
173 doubles 290 - 799z, 15 apartments 490 - 1299z, 1
Opera Suite 1680 - 2380z). Breakfast 85z. PTJHA
RUFGKDwW hhhhh
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Built on 12 islands the city of Wrocaw is surrounded by
rivers and canals. No-one seems to agree on an exact
figure, but youll find approximately 127 bridges within the
city boundaries, a figure that only three other European
cities can beat (Venice, Amsterdam and St Petersburg).
Though not the most beautiful, the daddy of them all has
to be Most Grunwaldzski; Polands longest suspension
bridge. Designed by Mager, Weyerauch and Mayer, the
bridge was completed in 1910 and originally christened
the Imperial Bridge. According to local legend the chief
engineer committed suicide on the eve of its unveiling,
convinced that the structure would collapse.
Polands Venice
24
WHERE TO STAY
location that just about borders on the Old Town. The buffet
breakfast is one of the best in the city, and when add in the
free wifi and friendly, multi-lingual service we think youre on
to a winner. Q39 rooms (39 singles 179 - 255z, 39 doubles
199 - 275z, 4 apartments 254 - 365z). Breakfast 30z.
PTHA6UKW hhh
Dwr Polski A-3, ul. Kiebanicza 2, tel. (+48) 71
372 34 15, www.dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. A fabulous
ensemble of olde-world sophistication, communist left-
overs and touches of modernity, this 16th-century beast
provides good rooms throughout featuring satellite televi-
sion, minibars and renovated bathrooms. The apartment
is wonder ful indeed, featuring l ots of fancy trimmings
and a private entrance for the discreet guest. Add-ons
are minimal, but theres a feast of traditional bars and
restaurants throughout the building representing every
aspect of Polish food and drink. Q28 rooms (8 singles
212 - 265z, 20 doubles 260 - 325z, 4 apartments 336 -
470z). THA6LKDW hhhh
Europeum A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27a, tel.
(+48) 71 371 45 00, www.europeum.pl. Just across
the road from the Old Town youll find this super modern
and super clean hotel behind a chic glass fronted building.
Modern rooms are accessed with swipe cards and come with
climate control, cable TV, refrigerator and fully sound-proofed
windows - the perfect solution to its busy central location.
Both the hotel and adjoining restaurant (Brasserie 27 - see
restaurants) look way above their class, representing amaz-
ing value for money. Elegant without ever being kitsch. Q38
PTHARUFGKDW hhh
Hotel Jana Pawa II C-2, ul. w. Idziego 2, tel.
(+48) 71 327 14 00, www.hotel-jp2.pl. Very decent
lodgings that go far beyond the standards the price tags
would suggest; let the guest book speak for itsel f. Past
lodgers include best-selling writer and historian Norman
Davies, as well as the political brothers Jarosaw and the
late Lech Kaczyski. The exterior is a great mix of old
and new, the glass entrance on the corner blending in
seamlessly with the townhouse style. Its a strategy that
has been extended to the interiors, with serious looking
oil paintings and classic furnishings fitted alongside all the
creature comforts of the modern century. I f the weather is
getting a bit naughty then views of Ostrw Tumski allow
you to do all your holiday snaps from the warmth of your
room. Q90 rooms (86 singles 190 - 290z, 64 doubles
200 - 390z, 4 apartments 300 - 700z). PTHAR
ULGKDW hhhh
Jester ul. Kowalska 63 (Psie Pole-Kowale), tel. (+48)
71 345 86 00, www.hotel-jester.com. A low-rise modern
villa offering prim, spotless rooms painted in pastel shades.
Accommodation comes with internet connection and satellite
TV, as well as en-suite bathrooms. Five kilometres from the
centre. Q25 rooms (24 singles 130 - 180z, 10 doubles 180
- 220z, 14 triples 210 - 260z, 1 apartments 240 - 260z).
THA6LGKW hhh
Novotel ul. Wycigowa 35 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 339
80 51, www.accorhotels.com. A squat sixties building
surrounded with flagpoles and coni fers hides good value
accommodation on the outskirts of town. The Novotel stan-
dard as replicated across the world is strictly followed, so
expect multi-lingual staff, comfortable rooms and plenty of
business travellers and tourist groups. Q145 rooms (145
singles 159 - 309z, 145 doubles 159 - 309z). Breakfast
39z. THAR6UGKW hhh
Scandic Wrocaw A-5, ul. Pisudskiego 49/57, tel.
(+48) 71 787 00 00, www.scandichotels.com. Im-
maculate rooms a short walk from the train station. All the
hallmarks of the top-class chain are in evidence, including
heated bathroom floors, sparkling rooms and extras like
digital TV and mini-bars. Downstairs pretty receptionists
greet guests, while the business facilities are second to
none. Q164 rooms (164 singles 289 - 479z, 164 doubles
329 - 519z). PTHA6UFGKDwW hhhh
Mid-range
Bugatti ul. Kosmonautw 328, (Fabryczna), tel. (+48)
71 349 35 23, www.hotelbugatti.pl. A secluded villa on
the city limits is the home of this gem. While its distance
might make it an odd choice, the furnishings provide plenty
of traditional character, and the staff are helpful. There is
a wide range of rooms, including some bigger ones perfect
for families. Non-smoking rooms too: always a bonus in our
book. Q20 rooms (17 singles 228 - 330z, 17 doubles 278
- 390z, 3 triples 390z). PTHAR6GKW hhh
Campanile A-1, ul. Jagiey 7, tel. (+48) 71 326 78 00,
www.campanile.com.pl. Great value. Rooms are large,
smart and spacious, and come decorated in the Campanile
colours of green and yellow with chequered duvets and
curtains, and creature comforts like satellite TV and air-con.
Just north of the centre, the Old Town and Ostrw Tumski
are within easy walking distance. Q110 rooms (109 singles
160 - 240z, 109 doubles 160 - 240z, 1 apartments 340z).
Breakfast 35z. PTHA6UGKW hh
Centrum Dikul A-2, ul. Cieszyskiego 17-19, tel.
(+48) 71 796 77 66, www.dikul.pl. Occupying a wonder-
fully restored Secession building opposite the Archaeology
and Military museums, this comfortable hotel offers ample
opportunities for pampering. Dont let the faade fool you:
inside its all contemporary moods, from the spacious com-
mon areas to the big doubles and generous single rooms
youll be happy to return to after a hectic day. For others
the attraction of the Dikul is its cutting edge spinal mobility
centre - one of the best in Europe, luring people from all over
who are looking to speed their recoveries from serious spinal
injuries, strokes and operations. As such, every room - and
we mean every room - is disabled traveler friendly: a first
for Poland. Q31 rooms (31 singles 200 - 290z, 9 doubles
300 - 360z). PTARUGW hhh
Diament ul. Muchoborska 10 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48)
71 735 03 50, www.hoteldiament.pl. One of the re-
gions best accommodation chains has finally made it to
Wrocaw - good news for those who (like ourselves) have
understandably grown to rely on Diaments good graces while
on the go about south-western PL. A more business-minded
model, Wrocaws Diament has seven climate-controlled
conference rooms with free wifi and movable walls, allowing
creative company execs some interesting options for team-
building exercises. Tidy, handsome rooms with flat-screen
satellite TV and wi fi, and a strikingly modern restaurant
and lobby round out this revelatory effort ten minutes from
the Old Town and airport. Q132 rooms (127 singles 289z,
115 doubles 349z, 3 suites 419z, 2 apartments 499z).
PTHAUFGKW hhh
Duet E-4, ul. w Mikoaja 47-48, tel. (+48) 71 785 51
00, www.hotelduet.pl. For what you pay, you get a whole
lot of hotel room here. Really. Terrific beds (and as there
is a choice of twins and doubles you can be guaranteed
your double bed is a double bed, not two singles pushed
together: that always annoys us...) great bathrooms and a
26
WHERE TO STAY
Budget
Akira Bed & Breakfast F-2, Pl. Strzelecki 28, tel.
(+48) 71 323 08 88, www.hotelakira.pl. A thoroughly
adequate log-sawing option just north of Wrocaws centre,
Akira offers rooms for one, two or three people at prices
fairly comparable to a private room in a hostel. The facade
of the century old building sadly outshines the interior of the
small, unmemorable rooms, but each is equipped with its
own bathroom, TV, internet, bed, pillow and roof under which
youve enough space to stretch vertically and horizontally:
honestly, what more do you need? Breakfast buffet? Theres
that too. Q21 rooms (20 singles 159z, 17 doubles 189z, 3
triples 269z). TAR6UGW
Cilantro Bed & Breakfast A-1, ul. Pomorska 32/26-29,
tel. (+48) 71 793 86 82, www.cilantro.pl. Bright, breezy,
modern and immaculately clean. Close to Wroclaws bustling
market this hotel offers very good value accommodation in a
number of different types of room: all of which are spacious, all
of which have balconies and all of which are decorated in a way
that puts a smile on your face. The great breakfast (included in
the price) and the relatively small size of the bill you get at the
end of your stay will only make you smile more. Q9 rooms (9
doubles 189z, 3 triples 269z). TA6LGW
Dom Turystyczny TRIO ul. Trzemeska 4,6,8, (Fabry-
czna), tel. (+48) 71 355 94 46, www.puhot.pl. Its got the
three Cs: cheap, clean and close to the centre. Furniture is
vaguely modern, conference and office facilities are available,
and all rooms are neat and vaguely modern. Certainly a better
option to Wrocaws plague of toxic budget choices. Q245
rooms (20 singles 65z, 219 doubles 76 - 87z, 21 triples
87 - 96z, 3 quads 120z). No breakfast served. HAG
Etap Hotel Wrocaw Stadion ul. Lotnicza 151
(Pilczyce), tel. (+48) 71 353 84 48, www.etaphotel.
com. In anticipation of Euro 2012, Wrocaw has a new footie
stadium and this is the spiffy hotel that popped up with it.
A full four kilometres from the Old Town, yet well-connected
to it, Etap combines super-cheap prices with trusted quality
and space station style. The slightly cramped rooms look as
though theyve been designed to coordinate with the latest
iBook, and feature free wireless, snazzy flatscreen satellite
TVs and a breakfast buffet (not included in cost) where you
can grub with the visiting football sides shacking here. Overall
an incredible value. Q122 rooms (118 singles 115 - 145z,
118 doubles 115 - 145z, 4 triples 115 - 145z). Breakfast
20z. PTAUGW h
Podrnik B-6, ul. Sucha 1, tel. (+48) 71 373 28 45,
www.podroznik.emeteor.pl. Not the flea-ridden halfway-
house youd expect from a bus-station hotel, Podrnik
touts private showers and clean rooms. Though far from
honeymoon standard the prices offer unbeatable value for
the more scrooge-like traveller. Youll be expected to com-
municate in Polish. Q17 rooms (2 singles 100 - 125z, 9
doubles 150z, 3 triples 190z, 1 quads 230z, 1 apartments
180z, 1 Six-person room 260z). JH6
Polonia A-5, ul. Pisudskiego 66, tel. (+48) 71 343 10
21, www.poloniawroclaw.pl. Though not looking quite as
plush as it did as the star of hundreds of 1930s postcards,
once past the perfunctory reception the Polonia is still a
decent hotel that offers big - if a little plain - rooms for a more
than fair price. Bathrooms are clean and relatively modern,
though almost all have showers and not baths. For a cheap
sleep around the station this is a good option. Q104 rooms
(27 singles 139 - 179z, 66 doubles 159 - 199z, 4 triples 219
- 259z, 7 quads 279 - 319z). OTA6UGKW hh
Patio A-3, ul. Kiebanicza 24-25, tel. (+48) 71 375
04 00, www.hotelpatio.pl. One of the citys better accom-
modation options, the Patio is a sumptuous place in a top
location minutes from the Rynek. Centred around a striking yet
elegant atrium the individually furnished rooms here have been
recently refurbished and offer maximum comfort, from high-
speed internet to state of the art televisions and luxuriously
decorated bathrooms. Best of all we like the deep carpets
and comfy armchairs. If we had one complaint it would be that
the rooms are not all that big, but given the high standards
of service, decor and comfort, well take it. Q51 rooms (42
singles 234 - 425z, 20 doubles 300 - 460z, 8 apartments
300 - 600z). PTJHA6LGKW hhh
Quality Hotel Wrocaw H-1, Al. Kromera 16, tel.
(+48) 71 364 97 00, www.hotelsystem.pl. Clean cream
colours lend a sharp modern look to the System and all
rooms come equipped with their own PC and flatscreen
TV. This is a real favourite with the corporate crowd though
the cosmopolitan bar and wellness centre - complete with
swimming pool - mean theres plenty to occupy yoursel f
with in those post-conference moments. Q107 rooms (100
singles 230 - 284z, 77 doubles 230 - 319z, 7 apartments
300 - 419z). PTHAR6UFGKDC hhh
Rezydent I-3, Al. Ryckiego 7, tel. (+48) 71 348 42
48, www.rezydent.pl. Short of being haunted by Barry
White you couldnt wish for a more romantic experience. A
pink faade and wooded location are topped with individually
designed rooms, a wacky garden and decent restaurant.
Splash out on a suite and you and your main squeeze can
enjoy champagne and snails while giggling in a jacuzzi. Unfor-
tunately keeping your car safe overnight costs an extra 25z
per night. Q23 rooms (23 singles 160 - 180z, 14 doubles
200 - 360z). THALKW
Silfor Premium Europejski B-5, ul. Pisudskiego 88,
tel. (+48) 71 772 10 00, www.silfor.pl. You may remember
this place as the Europejski, a completely mediocre hotel with
everything from carpets to curtains done up in a 1960s shade
of chocolate brown; a tasty colour for cake, rather revolting
used anywhere else. Well now the station-side monolith has
gone orange and we can tell you youll have had quite enough
of it as well after a three-day stay. That said, the fittings are
all new and the amenities make for the same satisfactory
stay you would have in any other identikit three star - neither
memorable nor regrettable. Q96 rooms (17 singles 179 -
249z, 67 doubles 199 - 279z, 12 apartments 269 - 339z).
Breakfast 25z. PTARULGKW hhh
Tumski C-2, Wyspa Sodowa 10, tel. (+48) 71 322 60
88, www.hotel-tumski.com.pl. While nothing to rhapso-
dise about, Tumski offers pleasant rooms staring across
the Oder and new fixtures and fittings. The chief conference
room, The Black Hall, on the other hand deviates from all
norms; raise your eyebrows at beamed ceilings, faux chande-
liers and parquet floors. Q57 rooms (14 singles 230 - 280z,
38 doubles 340 - 380z, 3 triples 380 - 420z, 1 apartments
630 - 690z). TJHA6UGKW hhh
Zauek A-2, ul. Garbary 11, tel. (+48) 71 341 00 46,
www.hotelzaulek.pl. A good choice in the heart of the
Old Town, this university-owned hotel offers clean bargain
rooms with satellite television and little else. Slowly dragging
itself out of the communist era, all of the singles now come
with renovated bathrooms and the building has, somewhat
surprisingly, WiFi throughout. A homely feel is rounded
off with a pleasant and exceedingly frilly restaurant. Q12
TJA6GKW hhh
28
WHERE TO STAY
29
WHERE TO STAY
and cream and caramel colours. I f theres six of you then
dont look beyond the Mizurii, a chic three room affair with
a corner tub, 32 inch flatscreen TV and underground park-
ing. And at these prices, its an absolute giveaway. Q40
rooms (40 apartments 270 - 390z). Breakfast 30-50z.
PTALGW
Leoapart B-2, ul. Wizienna 21/36-37, tel. (+48)
71 330 71 21, www.apartmentswroclaw.pl. A great
alternative to a hotel is your own apartment in the city
which gives you extra privacy, space and the chance to
feel like a local during your stay. This easy to navigate
website details upwards of 50 throughout Wrocaw with
photos, maps and other pertinent info in English, Polish,
German and Italian. Prices are conveniently listed in both
euro and zoty, making this one of the best resources
at your disposal. Airport transfers also available. Q50
rooms (50 apartments 190 - 400z). Breakfast 17z.
PTAR6ULGKW
Silver Apartments B-3, ul. Krawiecka 3, tel. (+48)
698 68 83 44, www.silverapartments.pl. Seriously,
though: Why pay 200-300z for a forgettable hotel by the
train station when you can stay in a brand-new city centre
apartment for less? Silver Apts offer modern studio and
two-room flats in the new Justin Centre, fully kitted for lon-
ger stays with amenities including dishwasher, washer and
dryer, fridge, microwave, LCD TV, wireless internet, iron, safe
and more. Across the street is the Galeria Dominikaska
shopping mall and downstairs there are more restaurants
and shops, as well as a tramstop (only two stops from the
train station). Coming from a thoroughly professional outfit,
this is a great offer for couples and businessmen; not so
great for groups on the goof that dont intend to respect the
reasonable and clearly stated house rules. Q18 rooms (8
doubles 170 - 240z, 10 quads 220 - 320z). Breakfast 30z.
PTA6GW
Vincent A- 3, ul. Ruska 39, tel. (+48) 71 341 05
20, www.apartamenty.vincent.wroclaw.pl. Possi bl y
the best decorated pri vate apar tments i n Wrocl aw.
Expensi ve wallpaper, fine wooden fl oors and beds fi t for
royal ty. All are well l ocated, and of the bunch we woul d
suggest apartment two (wi th i ts gl orious skyli ght dining
area) i s the best. Not cheap but worth every penny,
and note that the l onger you stay, the cheaper i t gets.
Q5 rooms (5 apartments 190 - 330z). Breakfast 12z.
PTHAR6GK
Wrocaw Capital Apartments B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza
15/4, tel. (+48) 71 341 73 55, www.capitalapart-
ments.pl. As far as we know, being on vacation is about
getting trousered, not wearing them. Like-minded itinerants
can have all the independence they require to feel at home
while abroad by booking into their very own apartment. With
several central locations to choose from, all of Capitals
Wrocaw apartments are modern and equipped with all the
accoutrements for an extended stay, including laundry. Q16
rooms (16 apartments 180 - 300z). No breakfast served.
PTAR6LGW
Wrocaw City Apartments B-3, , tel. (+48) 601 09
53 83, www.wroclaw-city-apartments.pl. Searching
for a great deal on accommodation in Wrocaw? Heres one:
three modern apartments to choose from, in the city centre
(ul. Biskupa, C-3; ul. Podwale, C-3) and one further out (ul.
Duga, E-3) if youre bothered by too much bustle. Simple and
ideal for couples, all come with full kitchens, TVs and almost
competitive prices. Q3 rooms (3 apartments 92 - 350z). No
breakfast served. GW
Savoy A-5, Pl. Kociuszki 19, tel. (+48) 71 344 30
71, www.savoy.wroc.pl. Presumably named after the
cabbage dish, not the more famous hotel, this reasonably
central battered communist legacy is a grim establishment
offering little in the way of comfort or spoken English. The
rooms havent seen much in the way of renovation and
the facilities are non-existent, but for the price theres not
much to complain about really. Q22 rooms (19 singles
135z, 14 doubl es 162z, 4 tri pl es 195z). Breakfast
12z. A6G
U Szermierzy C- 4, ul. Krasiskiego 30b, tel. (+48)
71 343 49 89, www.noclegwewroclawiu.pl. You may
be tempted to turn around and plunk down your credit card
some place swankier when you first see U Szermierzys
courtyard. But to do so would be to miss out on the hotel
experience youll find yoursel f later telling all the folks back
home about. Staffed by fencers (the kind with swords,
not stolen goods - really what could be safer?), this is
the local swashbucklers club and you may be expected
to be a spectator during combat training (i f you choose
not to participate, that is). As for the rooms, theyre small
and the beds are tiny, but who you gonna complain to?
Located smack in the centre, ring the bell to enter this
strange world. Q10 rooms (3 singles 70 - 90z, 4 doubles
90z, 2 triples 100 - 110z, 1 quads 120z). No breakfast
served. GW
Apartments
Hotels are just so passe, you know? Honestly, the market
in Wrocaw is ideal for short-term apartment stay and
the trend is catching on as the preferred accommoda-
tion alternative of todays holidaymakers, As such, youll
find more and more apartment options available, many
with fantastic locations that the hotel market cant offer.
Not only does staying in an apartment afford you more
privacy, space and comfort, it also helps you feel less like
a tourist and more like part of the neighbourhood. Best of
all, in most cases, apartment rental actually represents
better value for your money than a traditional hotel stay.
If youre travelling in a group, with the family or even just
your spouse, we recommend looking into apartment rental
when considering accommodation options in Wrocaw;
below weve listed some of the best.
Apartamenty Przyjazne Lokum A-3, Rynek Starego
Miasta, tel. (+48) 602 40 74 07, www.przyjaznelokum.
pl. Booking an apartment is not only a much more comfort-
able and independent way to approach accommodation, but
if youre travelling in a group it can be a much better value.
Allow us to demonstrate: Taking their Galeria apartment as
an example, here youve got room for 8 people in a second
floor Rynek pad with a fridge, dishwasher, washing machine,
stove, oven, toaster, kettle, iron etc. for only 280z a night.
Divide that by only four and youre paying hostel prices for
much better facilities; bring seven friends along and thats
about 6 Euro a night to crash with your friends on the bleepin
Rynek in Wrocaw. If you can find a better option, you better
let us know. Q12 rooms (12 apartments 160 - 400z). No
breakfast served. TAR6W
Exclusive Apartments B-3, ul. Krawiecka 3/10,
tel. (+48) 515 13 81 77, www.ea.wroclaw.pl. As the
name suggests, Exclusive is here to provide designer living
to the itinerant traveller. Ranging from 32 to 80 square
metres, there are a number of locations to choose from,
each one coming with kitchen facilities, ironing boards
and cable TV. For something utterly sexy check out the
Opium 2 apartment, decked out with ultra-stylish fittings
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30
WHERE TO STAY
31
WHERE TO STAY
with names like Curry, Lavender and Chilli. Colour coordinated
accordingly the colourful accommodation comes with fluffy
duvets and parquet floors. A flatscreen PC in the common
room caters to any internet needs while kitchens and bath-
rooms alike still feature a crisp unbroken look. Q10 rooms
(3 doubles 135z, 50 Dorm beds 35 - 60z). TA6GW
Mleczarnia E-4, ul. Wodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 787 75
70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl. It is not the best hostel in Po-
land for nothing. With its big dorms, good bathrooms and terrific
common room (where there are always travellers ready to spin
you a yarn or two) and off-beat, happy staff, Mleczarnia has a
recipe for success and sticks to it. For those who like a bit more
privacy the doubles with their own bathrooms are tremendous
(we had a pair of vintage skis in ours, which kind of sums the
place up), and the apartment (in a separate building close to
the Rynek) is well worth a splurge. Q5 rooms (4 doubles 220z,
4 triples 253z, 1 quads 286z, 1 apartments 220z, 34 Dorm
beds 35 - 50z). Breakfast 7-18z. TA6GW
Nathans Villa A-3, ul. widnicka 13, tel. (+48) 71 344
10 95, www.nathansvilla.com. Nathans Wrocaw venture
steals the crown of Polands best hostel. Set over a number
of floors dorm rooms come with solid pine frame beds, and
the presence of over 20 bathrooms means minimal chance of
early morning queues or grubby surprises festering inside the
toilet. Those who dont care for shared living have a number
of private rooms to pick from, each equipped with ensuite
bathrooms and flatscreen TV units. Find a fully stocked kitchen
on the top floor, with a great common room hidden away in
a fully converted loft space. Laundry, net access and central
location complete the experience. Note that not all rooms
have air-conditioning. Q21 rooms (10 singles 170 - 190z, 10
doubles 170 - 190z, 1 quads 200 - 240z, 1 Six-person room
320 - 330z, 54 Dorm beds 30 - 60z). PJAUGW
*8(6752206$3$570(17+267(/
Our Dairy is a great alternative to more expensive
hotels and cheap party-hostels
We are waiting for You...
ul. P. Wodkowica 5, 50 072 Wrocaw, tel./fax +48 71 787 75 70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl
e-mail: rezerwacja@mleczarniahostel.pl
T h e D a i r y , D i e M o l k e r e i , L a L a t t e r i a , L e L e c h e r i a , L a L a i t e a r i e .
Hostels
Ale Hostel B-5, ul. Kociuszki 55, tel. (+48) 71 315
45 82, www.alehostel.pl. Weve been extolling the virtues
of Avantgarde Hostel for years now and its look like we were
right as theyve extended with another 53 sleeping places in the
same building, this time under the banner of Ale Hostel. Expect
the same high standards in a range of 1-, 2-, 3- 4- bed rooms and
7-bed dorms, each decorated uniquely by local designers. Q14
rooms (2 singles 80 - 100z, 6 doubles 90 - 120z, 1 quads 140z,
34 Dorm beds 28 - 35z). No breakfast served. A6GW
Avantgarde B-5, ul. Kociuszki 55, tel. (+48) 71 341 07
38, www.avantgardehostel.pl. A superbly modern hostel
and ample proof of how far Wrocaw has come in the space
of a few years. Dorms come fitted with steel frame bunks,
while a limit of seven to a room ensure minimal risk of having
your rest interrupted by drunken oafs snoring away or randy
couples giving the bed springs a workout. Metallic grey and
tangerine colours prevail throughout, adding a sharp aesthetic,
while every detail and fitting shines and sparkles. Bed linen and
towels are supplied gratis, some rooms come with showers
and TVs, and other common facilities include high-speed inter-
net, DVDs and a full kitchen. Q41 rooms (3 singles 80 - 100z,
10 doubles 90 - 120z, 3 triples 105 - 135z, 5 quads 140z,
106 Dorm beds 28 - 35z). No breakfast served. A6GW
Baza 15 E-3, ul. Romana Dmowskiego 15, tel. (+48)
792 72 63 33, www.baza15.pl. Mildly military-themed
hostel a short walk north of the Rynek, where the lockers are
armaments chests and army green is the colour du jour. In fact,
the home comforts come thick and fast and the fluffy pillows
found here will never be seen on an army base. Theres TV, free
wifi and a range of rooms and apartments. Bathrooms are a
bit spartan but as clean and bright new penny. Q8 rooms (8
singles 89 - 99z, 8 doubles 109 - 119z, 4 triples 149 - 159z,
2 quads 189 - 199z). No breakfast served. TGW
Boogie E-4, ul. Ruska 35, tel. (+48) 71 342 44 72,
www.boogiehostel.com. One more hostel to add to
Wrocaws ever growing list, and its not bad at all. Features of
note include a great spiral staircase inside a brick tower, lots
of timber frames and a Playstation in the fabulous common
room, which is every bit as sexy as a pink pussycat; think
low banquettes, purple colours and weird wallpaper. Facili-
ties number a fully stocked kitchen, bullet fast internet and a
DVD collection, while accommodation comes split between
private rooms and dorms decked out with single beds - so
no chance of the bloke in the upstairs bunk stepping on your
head. Quite an experience, and those with an aversion to
spiral stairs can catch a ride in the lift. Q19 rooms (2 singles
110z, 8 doubles 130 - 190z, 3 triples 165 - 180z, 3 quads
220z, 23 Dorm beds 40 - 45z). TAGW
Boogie Hostel Deluxe A-3, ul. Biaoskrnicza 6, tel.
(+48) 71 342 11 60, www.boogiehostel.com. With a
name like that you want to check in to this place as quickly
as possible; it sounds like an invitation to party non-stop. In
fact, this place is one of few fully renovated houses on the
historic ul. Bialoskornicza, and deserves brownie points sim-
ply for the tasteful refit. Inside expect what could be labelled
an upmarket hostel sleep in comfortable - if in some cases
rather garishly decorated - rooms. Q12 rooms (12 singles
160z, 12 doubles 180 - 190z). AGDW
Cinnamon B-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 67, tel. (+48)
71 344 58 58, www.cinnamonhostel.com. Formerly
a barren desert for the backpacker Wrocaw now has an
abundance of quality hostels to call its own. Cinnamon
features pleasant dorms fitted with two to eight beds, each
Boogie Hostel is situated in the exact centre of Wrocaw,
only 5 minutes on foot from the city centre, in a beautiful
18-century tenement house. Comfortable rooms, Wi-Fi, free
coffee and tea. Breakfast included in price.
Boogie Hostel Deluxe
ul. Biaoskrnicza 6, Wrocaw
tel. 71 342 11 60
tel.kom 605 07 10 10
wroclaw@boogiehostel.pl
Boogie Hostel
Ul.Ruska 35, Wrocaw
tel. 071 342 44 72
tel.kom 691 35 02 65
hostel@boogiehostel.pl
www.boogiehostel.pl
Born in Breslau, 1891, the case of Edith Stein has long
since divided those of Catholic and Jewish faith. Origi-
nally raised as a Jew she converted to Christianity after
reading the life story of St Teresa of Avila, marking New
Years Day, 1922 with her baptism. For the next nine
years she taught in a girls school in Speyer, before finally
landing a lecturing post in Munster in 1932. Her new
role was short-lived Hitlers ascent to power brought
with it a set of strict racial laws, and she found herself
forced to resign her position. Her letter to Pope Pius XI
denouncing Hitler fell on deaf ears, and so she entered
the Discalced Carmelite Monastrey in Cologne in 1933.
Taking the name Teresa Benedicta of the Cross she
penned numerous books and studies on spiritualism,
and fled westwards to the Netherlands to escape growing
fascist persecution. It was to prove in vain; in retaliation
for comments made by the Dutch Bishops Conference,
Dutch Reich Master Arthur-Seyss-Inquart ordered the
immediate arrest of all Jews who had converted to Chris-
tianity. Both Stein and her sister, Rosa, were packed off
to Auschwitz where they were gassed to death on August
9, 1942. She was beatified by Pope John Paul II in 1987
after a young girl made a miraculous recovery having
taken a massive overdose of Tylenol. Medical opinion
was confounded, with the miracle credited to prayers
dedicated to Teresa. The process for sainthood was
set in motion, and finally came full circle when she was
canonized in 1998. However, since then both Jews and
Catholics have squabbled and fought over her sainthood,
each claiming her as their own.
Edith Stein
There was wi despread
scepticism from around
Europe about Pol ands
abi l i t y to del i ver when
i t was awar ded t h e
EURO2012 football finals
in 2007 but despite some
early setbacks and monu-
mentally huge challenges,
it appears more and more likely that they (if not neces-
sarily their partners in Ukraine) are going to not just meet
but exceed expectations. Even in Wroclaw, where the
greatest difficulties have arisen following a dispute with
the original contractors, construction of the new stadium
seem to be on course to meet the June 2011 deadline.
A state of the art, UEFA grade 4 stadium has risen out
of the ground in the Maslice district in the north-west of
the city and while it currently operates under the name
City Stadium, the hunt is on for an anchor sponsor to
take naming rights. Featuring nearly 43,000 seats, the
729 million zloty project designed by the Polish wing of
Germanys J.S.K. Architekten will ensure all seats are
covered by a roof while the 40m high structure will be
covered in a transparent fibre-glass/Teflon covering giv-
ing it a space-age look. While local team Slask Wroclaw
are due to move in as permanent tenants, the American
operator SMG, plans to use the stadium and its upgraded
infrastructure to host special events such as large-scale
concerts and sports events. To read more about the
project and to see how the stadium is developing hour by
hour check out the stadium website at www.2012.wroc.pl
Euro 2012
32
RESTAURANTS
33
RESTAURANTS
Chinese
Cesarz B-3, ul. Wizienna 21/6, tel. (+48) 71 346
03 03. Wroclaws newest Chinese restaurant (Septem-
ber 2010) is ironically situated alongside several Italian
places in Galeria Italiana. That detail aside, its reasonably
authentic inside, i f you count bamboo-adorned walls as
appropriate. Uber-modern dark wood and floral accesso-
ries offset the bamboo, though, creating a kind of fusion
feeling. The same can be said of the dishes, with exotic
options such as j ell yfish and ox tongue in chilli sauce.
Thankfully one of the several languages in the menu is
English, plus there are large pictures to aid the inevitably
di fficult decision-making process. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(15-58z). PTAGS
French
Le Bistrot Parisien A-2, ul. Noownicza 1d, tel. (+48)
71 341 05 65, www.lebistrotparisien.pl. This ambitious
bistro pays homage to Paris with period photos of the French
capital and readymade meal sets including appetiser, entree
and dessert. The prices may seem preciously Parisian as
well, but the food is of exceptional quality, including staples
like Foie gras, frog legs, French onion soup, fried snails and
the wine to complement them. A popular congregation
point of expats, the staff are very friendly, flirty and accom-
modating; and as such, in no way French. Recommended.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (22-78z).
JAGSW
Georgian
Gruziskie Chaczapuri A-3, ul. Kiebanicza 7a,
tel. (+48) 512 29 58 58, www.chaczapuri.pl. Weve
long been championing Wrocaw as The Next Krakw,
and now weve finally got evidence. These guys own five
locales in Krakw, and theyve picked Wrocaw as the
next stepping stone in their quest for world domination.
Theyve employed pretty much the same formula here with
stout wooden fittings found under branch-like lights. As
day dims into night this place fills with noisy diners hoist-
ing pint glasses and getting stuck into plates cascading
with crinkly fries, cabbage and ambiguous meaty dishes;
everyone orders something di fferent but ends up wi th
practically the same cheap, shameless beer food. Belch.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (10-29z).
TAGBS
Greek
Akropol F-4, Pl. Solny 18/19, tel. (+48) 71 788 81
42, www.akropolrestaurant.pl. High-end Greek dining,
with music, ambiance and decor to match. Choose from a
menu of steak, shrimp, salads and classics such as the very
tasty Moussaka. The interior can only be described as a sea
of cream and gold - and theres a spiral staircase leading
to a mezzanine floor overlooking the bar and main dining
room with hanging lights. Feast with the soothing sound of a
trickling water feature, or live music (common). Polish owned
but you definitely wouldnt know it! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(30-120z). PTAUBXSW
Akropolis A- 3, Rynek 16/17, tel. (+48) 71 343 14
13, www.akropolis.wroc.pl. Apparently Plac Solny just
wasn t central enough for the Greeks, as theyve packed
up and pl onked themsel ves in a handsome new l ocation
smack on the Rynek. Seems theyve also traded up wi th
the i nteri or desi gn, swappi ng breezy seasi de villa for
a dark wood, wi ne-warm el egance more befi tti ng the
Get to know the original and chic
character of French cuisine
ul. Noownicza 1D
071- 341-05-65
info@lebistrotparisien.pl
www.lebistrotparisien.pl
Wrocaws respectable number of international restau-
rants reflects its status as a thriving urban centre. Things
are ever on the up with an improving number of ethic
options now available. Like bars and pubs, most stay
open as long as customers are still lingering; what we list
here arent the opening hours, but the latest time you can
expect the chef to still be working.
American
America Bar&Grill E-4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia
Park), tel. (+48) 71 338 50 94, www.americarestau-
rant.pl. With Rodeo Drive gone from the Rynek you are now
forced to come out to the Magnolia Park shopping develop-
ment in search of burgers, steaks and chicken wings. This
place used to be the TGI Fridays and although the name has
changed, we guessing this might just be a marketing ploy
as the food is as recognisable and good as we were used to
from the old place. Decent steaks and burgers with fries for
those days when only a proper burger will do.QOpen 09:00
- 21:00. (17-58z). PTAUGSW
Sioux E-4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia Park), tel. (+48)
71 338 51 15, www.sioux.com.pl. Zip to the second floor
of the Magnolia Park mall to dine inside a shadowy interior
punctuated with totem poles and other misappropriated Wild
West malarkey. The menu is a collection of cowboy munches
like ribs and wings though rarely goes beyond the standard
one expects from a mall. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. (18-62z).
PTAUGSW
Armenian
Armine A-5, ul. Bogusawskiego 83, tel. (+48) 71 367
15 31, www.armine.com.pl. Vaguely seedy, thanks in part
to the peep shows that flank it. The Asatryan family seem to
know everyone who comes through the door at Armine, and
this place appears to double as a card school and drinking
den for men in leather jackets. If youve come for the food,
not a chat and a vodka, the owners grill shish kebabs on an
open coal fire and fill your table with salads, pilaf and dolma.
QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (19-30z). PJA6GBSW
Austrian
Galicja A-5, ul. Pisudskiego 66, tel. (+48) 71 342
21 75, www.galicja.wroclaw.pl. Huge, formal and slighly
musty the Hotel Polonias restaurant comes with a clas-
sical atmosphere and portraits of Emperor Franz Jozef
glaring down on the scattering of diners. The food is every
bit as youd imagine from a middle-of-the-road hotel. Not
bad, but lets face it, youve got a zillion better places to
visit. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (12-45z).
PTA6GBSW
Brazilian
Braziliana B-2, ul. Wizienna 5b, tel. (+48) 71 789 97
88. The chef is Brazilian and he pops out to give a wave now
and then. The staff is equally likeable, and maybe Brazyliana
is simply restricted by the ingredients available in PL, but this
is little more than misleadingly exotic-sounding Polish food
with black beans or coconut milk added. The interior doesnt
inspire much either: an unglamorous tile-floored cafeteria
touched up with colour photos of toucans and parrots and
a palm tree in the centre. Fried, breaded bananas and sweet
corn cake make the desserts sound enticing, but weve no
confidence theyre any less a letdown than the entrees, which
were fun to play with but little more. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(14-55z). PTAGS
If you have had an experience to remember at any of
the venues listed in this guide, be it good, bad, ugly or
downright sad, let the two million regular unique visitors to
our website, www.inyourpocket.com, know about it. Every
venue on our website now has a module below it for you
to comment on the places we write about. You can agree
with us, scold us, praise us or damn us to hell (in the case
of angry restaurant owners unhappy with their reviews).
Abrams Tower comments
I love this place as the anomaly of Wroclaw. They now
serve Global Tapas which are a taste of Spain with
influences from Mexico to Japan. Along with this are
great wines, terrific unpasturized local beers and a laid
back atmosphere thats out of the competition of the
busy market square (Rynek). And if really hungry, this is
the one spot in town where they will serve you a burrito
(even including fresh cilantro) or other exotic dishes
served as daily changing specials. It may take a bit of
searching to find it but its a gem in the rough and only a
short walk from the center.
Matt Berlin - 13 March, 2011
Bernard comments
Most impressed with this establishment, and you really
cant beat the location. We enjoyed dinner here so much
that we returned for breakfast the next day, finding the
same fresh tasty food and professional friendly service.
Recommended.
Gavin Shipley - 4 February, 2011
Have Your Say
SPLURGE
By common consent JaDka remains the best restaurant
in the city, though we like the look and feel of the place
up on the water, Marina. The merits of the exquisite
Le Bistrot Parisien should also not be overlooked: it
has a stunning wine list, alongside much else of note.
Japanese eateries Darea and Sushi 77 offer scope
for extravagance, while Da Andrea and Brasserie
Europeum could have you reaching for your plastic.
CHEAP
Kuchnia Marche, Multifood STP and good old Greenway
offer cheap eats a plenty, else shuffle along with the
students at the Wroclaw institution that is Bazylia.
LADS
Capri is our default pizza choice, while the busty serving
girls at Spiz and the Bierhalle and the costumed gents
at Gospoda Wroclawska will keep you pli ed wi th
sausages and beer all day and all night. For something
a bit different (and especially for bigger groups) try one
of the dining rooms at Pieprz i Wanilia.
COUPLES
The rooftop Restauracja Acquario at the Hotel
Monopol was made for proposals and other romantic
moments, while for blowing-over a date with high quality
food JaDka comes out high again, while the tables for
two downstairs at Soho can get cosy on chilly winter
evenings. Boats always score high romantically, so take
him or her to Przystan overlooking the harbour.
Dining at a Glance
34
RESTAURANTS
35
RESTAURANTS
Brasserie 27 A- 3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27a
(Europeum Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 371 44 71, www.bras-
serie27.com. Fancy and indeed flavoursome, this place is
owned by the hotel Europeum but worthy of its separate
entrance. A mega modern, glass fronted appearance is
complimented by designer hanging lights and dark woods.
The reassuringly short menu starts with Italian and spans
steak and also fish dishes, staying mostly within the bounds
of Mediterranean-style cuisine. Friendly service and an award
winning chef make this one of the better places in the city
to eat. Q Open 07:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00. (30-55z).
PTAUGSW
Casus E-4, ul. Wodkowica 8, tel. (+48) 71 790 11 18,
www.casus-restauracja.pl. Worth the short walk from
Old Town for the quiet garden at the back and the excellent
food. They do a terri fic golonka, a good beef carpaccio
and there is fish on the menu too. The wine list is handy,
and it is generally an upmarket dining experience with one
exception: the menus, which let the whole team down.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (16-60z).
TAUGBSW
Cegielnia B-2, ul. Wizienna 21 (Galeria Italiana),
tel. (+48) 693 97 40 05. This simple, stylish eatery
is distinguished by the black wooden cutl ery dangling
everywhere. The foods not bad either, with huge bowls
of basics like salads and pasta, as well as toasted sand-
wiches and ciabattas going for budget prices. Fast and
healthy, Cegielnia is an ideal place to start the night with
handsome wine and cocktail lists making it a trendy place
to drink as well. Place your order at the bar, as they cant
seem to decide whether they actually have table service
or not. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (8-
16z). PJGBS
Bernard B- 3, Rynek 35, tel. (+48) 71 344 10
54, www.bernard.wroclaw.pl. Wel l go al ong wi th
the crowd and admi t that thi s al ready trendy brewer y/
restaurant i s one of the most al l uri ng l ocal es to open
on the market square i n some ti me. A styl i sh, ai r y,
three-l evel i nteri or wi th a l ong i nvi ti ng bar, Bernard
i s characteri sed by cl osel y arranged tabl es whi ch
don t of fer any pri vacy but contri bute to the casual
atmosphere where the menu i s your pl acemat and
i ts per fectl y acceptabl e to j ust enj oy a dri nk wi thout
eati ng. To that end, they have thei r own beer i n dark
and l i ght, as wel l as bottl ed choi ces i ncl udi ng a decent
amber and four al cky-free fl avours whi ch we woul dn t
know anythi ng about; enj oy thei r draughts i n gl asses
growi ng from . 4 to 2 l i tres. The food i s nothi ng to
overl ook wi th a menu rangi ng from nachos to Pol i sh
cl assi cs l i ke gol onka and the upper l evel tabl es i n the
wi ndow are a great pl ace to take your date, but reserve
ahead. QOpen 09: 00 - 23: 00, Fri , Sat 09: 00 - 24: 00.
(23- 69z). PTAUEBXSW
Bierhalle A- 3, Rynek Ratusz 26, tel. (+48) 601 67
74 52, www.bierhalle.eu. A veri tabl e l ads magnet,
thi s touri st gobbl i ng franchi se features busty farmers
daughters i n faux-fol k costumes bussi ng stei ns of un-
pasteuri sed si te-brewed beer to patrons busy stuf fi ng
themsel ves on sausages, ri bs, pork knuckl e and other
meaty feasts wi th fri es. The seasonal outdoor seati ng
does wel l to capture the spi ri t of the name, though the
unremarkabl e i nteri or i s a bi t l i ke ever y other pl ace
you ve ever spi l l ed a beer i n, though you may be more
remorseful to have done so here due to each al es
surpri si ng qual i ty and cost. QOpen 11:30 - 23: 00, Fri
11:30 - 24: 00, Sat 10:30 - 24: 00, Sun 09:30 - 24: 00.
(26- 60z). PAGBSW
histori c townhouse i t now occupi es. Indeed the gol d and
lavender walls seem to compel you to buy an obli gatory
bottl e of red. Remaining is Akropolis Godfather factor,
where well -dressed patrons wine and dine their dames
in what is still one of the best ethni c restaurants in the
regi on. The menu of seafood and Greek meats from
the grill hi ts the mark - we ordered lamb and were not
disappointed. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (30-110z). PT
JAGBSW
Greco A-3, Rynek 15, tel. (+48) 71 343 29 12, www.
grecja.pl. Both looking and feeling all rather Greek (as you
would expect, given the name) this place serves a great
selection of fish (all flown in fresh), big Greek salads with
proper feta cheese (and not local versions of) and plenty of
grilled meats and the odd kebab. Amazingly good service
given how busy it can get. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (9-33z).
PTAGBSW
Indian
Masala Grill & Bar B-3, ul. Kunicza 3, tel. (+48)
71 302 69 49, www.masala-grill.pl. Indian restaurants
have hit Wrocaw in a big way and the war for supremacy
is on wi th this third opening in l ess than a year, well -
posi ti oned j ust of f the market square. Masal a does
traditional Indian food in a more contemporary European
style as Indian chefs work in plain view behind two long
bars in the offbeat granite gray interior full of comical,
conical hanging lamps, pop art elephants and colourful
seat cushions. The Express Lunch (served 11:00-15:00,
Mon-Fri) with soup, curry, rice and sauce served in steel
bowls with a small veggie side and a pile of flatbread bread
for only 19.90z fills the seats and represents not only
a great bargain, but a great deal of delicious food. The
regular menu hits all the marks and portions are larger
than most places, earning our earnest recommendation.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (20-50z).
PTAVGSW
Spice India B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 15a, tel. (+48)
71 794 80 44, www.spiceindia.pl. Opening hot on the
heels of Indus, Spice India gives Wrocawians a worthwhile
debate over where to find the citys best curry. Offering a
large menu of eastern classics prepared with your choice of
chicken, lamb, mutton, fish or strictly veggie, small portions
demand that you order a side of rice and things can quickly
become pricey for those that cant resist samosas and a
mango lassi; fortunately students enjoy a 10% discount or
stop in during lunch (11:00-16:00) for max value meal sets
(17.99z). An elegant, primarily white interior is enlivened by
colourful place settings, paper lanterns and wall hangings,
where svelte belly-dancers occasionally gyrate. All around
authentic and appreciated. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (27-36z).
PTAUVGBSW
International
Aquarelle C-3, ul. Purkyniego 10 (Radisson Blue Hotel
Wroclaw), tel. (+48) 71 375 00 00, www.radissonblu.
com/hotel-wroclaw. What really caught our eye on the
menu here was the good selection of cheap, simple kids
dishes (all priced around 20z): a rarity in Poland. For grown
ups the selection is no less varied, though the prices are
somewhat higher. We always go for the break-the-bank
expensive but sublime Argentinean steaks, which come with
a choice of side dishes, but there is fish and pasta too. A
seasonal courtyard terrace complete with lawn is an added
bonus for families searching for somewhere to eat. QOpen
06:30 - 23:00. (38-110z). PTA6UGBSW
36
RESTAURANTS
Cesarsko-Krlewska A-3, Rynek 19, tel. (+48) 71
341 92 07, www.restauracja-ck.pl. An impressive effort
with three vaulted banquet halls designed to evoke the empire
spirit of Vienna, Prague and Budapest. Muskets and framed
pictures hang from the walls and aproned staff rush around
polishing cutlery and straightening table cloths. On the menu
duck, rabbit, boar and other central European classics, while
the cellar houses a huge range of whisky and gourmet vodka.
QOpen 12:00-24:00. (19-139z). PTJABXSW
Cynamon H-4, Plac Grunwaldzki 23-27, tel. (+48) 605
86 07 24, www.cynamonbar.pl. Well placed to capture the
local lunch market (there is an office building above and a
university/student dorms opposite), Cynamon serves per-
fectly good if not award winning pizza, pasta and salads, all
priced by the weight. We wouldnt travel this far out of town
specifically to come here, but if you are in the area its worth
checking out. QOpen 11:30 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. PA6UBXSW
Dominikaska C-3, Pl. Dominikaski 1 (Mercure
Panorama Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 323 27 00, www.ac-
corhotels.com. Hotel restaurants get a bad rap - and a lot of
them deserve it. But at the Mercure, youll find an eatery that
could make it on its own. Surprisingly affordable offerings
pay homage to local traditions, with the menu changing as
regularly as the seasons. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (30-71z).
PTJA6UGW
GreenHouse A-5, ul. Pisudskiego 49/57 (Hotel Scan-
dic), tel. (+48) 71 787 01 62, www.greenhouserestau-
rant.pl. Tucked inside the Scandic, GreenHouse is an admit-
tedly confounding establishment seemingly trying to break
out of its stigmatic hotel shackles, yet simultaneously unable
to due to the buffet arrangement and casual atmosphere at
war with the elegant approach of the staff and inflated prices.
The menu propagates confusion by listing appetisers plus
first and second courses, all of which carry substantial
price tags. We most recommend taking advantage of the
budget bar menu or dropping in weekdays between 12:00
and 16:00 for their large and delicious crepe menu stacked
with exotic stuffings. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00
- 23:00. (18-38z). PTJA6UGSW
Kuchnia A-5, ul. Bogusawskiego 61, tel. (+48) 519
15 69 05. Bookending the Bogusawskiego beer boulevard,
Kuchnia is the ideal place to fortify your stomach while kick-
ing off your pub crawl. This modest, domestically designed
good eats kitchen offers salads, pasta, risotto and meat
dishes in absolutely huge portions for next to nothing. But
most importantly, here youll enjoy another obscure Czech
beer option unique to its neighbours: Litovel. QOpen 13:00
- 23:00. (12-46z). AGBS
Kuchnia Marche A-5, ul. widnicka 53, tel. (+48)
71 343 95 65, www.marche.com.pl. For something
completely different, visit this colourful food bazaar where
the chefs are at work right in front of you. A bit confusing for
the uninitiated, receive a card at the door and get it stamped
as you wander the food stations making selections from
amongst the Polish, Italian, Asian and Turkish cuisine on
hand, before paying upon completion of your meal. Fresh
and cheap with something to suit all tastes, a particular
standout is the Asian counter where the Asian chefs Polish
accent may actually be more amusing than our own. The
cheerful canteen atmosphere is dutifully filled with student
diners, many taking advantage of the fact that everything is
reduced in price by 25 per cent from 19:30-20:00, Mon-Fri.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (10-20z).
PTAUVGSW
Bazylia B-2, ul. Kunicza 42, tel. (+48) 71 375 20
65, www.bazyliabar.pl. Enter this clean, modern and
spacious student cafeteria at Plac Universytecki, take a
tray, plate and silverware and hit the long buffet line for a
wide selection of traditional Polish and other hot dishes.
With music provided by VIVA music television from the
flatscreen mounted on the wall and views of the beauti-
ful baroque University Church through the wall-length
windows, Bazylia offers cheap, fast and filling food at the
outrageously affordable price of 2.39zl/100g. A great way
to save your spending for the bars, everything goes for half-
price during the last hour of the days business. Q Open
08:00 - 19:00. From July 10:00 - 18:00. JAUGS
Burger King E-4, ul. Legnicka 60 (Magnolia Park),
tel. (+48) 71 386 17 48, www.burgerking.com.pl.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. (11-17z). PAUGSW
KFC B-3, ul. widnicka 13a, tel. (+48) 71 341 85
83, www.kfc.pl. Also at (C-3, Galeria Dominikaska),
Pl. Dominikaski 3 and (E-4, Magnolia Park), ul. Legnicka
58. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00, Sun
08:00 - 24:00. (11-17z). PAGBSW
McDonalds B-3, Rynek 30, tel. (+48) 694 49
60 09, www.mcdonalds.pl. You know the drill. Also
at (C-3, Galeria Dominikaska), Pl. Dominikaski 3 and
(H-4, Pasa Grunwaldzki), Pl. Grunwaldzki 22. QOpen
07:00 - 02:00, Thu 07:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00.
(12-18z). PTAUGBSW
Pizza Hut A-3, Rynek 48, tel. (+48) 71 386 17
56, www.pizzahut.pl. You know the deal. Also at (E-4,
Magnolia Park), ul. Legnicka 58. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (11-42z). PTJAGBSW
Sevi Kebab E- 6, ul. Powstancw lskich 2- 4
(Arkady Wrocawskie, level 1), tel. (+48) 71 360 02
58, www.sevikebab.pl. The queue speaks for itself.
While half the other food outlets in Arkady have nary a
customer between them, the queue at this place is often
20 deep. The shish kebab is the pick of the bunch, while
if youre felling really hungry (or are just hungover) the 20
zloty Sevi menu - with a bit of everything - will sort you
out. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (10-23z).
PA6UGS
Wiea Cinie Bistro E-7, ul. Sudecka 125a, tel.
(+48) 71 367 19 29, www.wiezacisnien.pl. Meriting
a trip just to gaze at this gorgeous survivor of unique
water tower architecture, the ground floor bistro extends
an affordable invitation to step inside for delicious coffee,
cakes and ice cream, or choose from their buffet of ready
entrees. The layout (with the queue starting at the op-
posite end from the entrance) and system are admittedly
confusing - plates are priced by the item, not weight, so
exercise self-control while selecting - but the traditional
meat and potatoes dishes are satisfying, the desserts to
die for, and theres a bargain salad bar for those that dont
eat from the barnyard. From 08:00-12:00 its breakfast,
while after 18:30 enjoy the buffet at half-price. On the
upper floors youll find a more upscale restaurant (see
International) and a terrace bar in warm months. You can
get there easy via buses 144, 127 or 136; or cough up
15z for the cab fare. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 21:00. (15-30z). TAGBS
Quick Eats
38
RESTAURANTS
39
RESTAURANTS
Pieprz i Wanilia ul. Kutnowska 1-3 (Krzyki), tel. (+48)
71 750 46 31, www.pieprziwanilia.com. A restaurant and
travel club that embodies the spirit of adventure, perhaps its ap-
propriate that it requires a bit of a journey just to get there. Dont
let that dissuade you, however - this is one of Wrocaws most
unique restaurants, with the world cuisine and unique dcor in-
formed by the extensive wanderings of the adjoining travel club.
Find four elegant rooms, each decorated with original objects
and photos to represent different parts of the world, including
the African room serving a budget menu and the Canadian
room with more sophisticated and exclusive meals. Following
the chefs fusion sensibilities, the food combines international
flavours in unexpected and innovative ways. Located south of
the city centre in the lovely Park Poudniowy, get there via trams
2, 6, 7 or 17 and get off at the Orla stop. Or drop 15-20z for
the cab fare. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun
11:00 - 21:00. (23-60z). TA6UGBSW
Pod Papugami A-3, ul. Sukiennice 9a, tel. (+48) 71
343 92 75, www.podpapugami.com.pl. Long known as
a default Wroclaw drinker, it should never be forgotten that
the Pod - in the plummest of plum locations on the Rynek -
serves up some rather good food too. We have always liked
the breakfast menu: go for the convincing (i f not cheap)
full American, the full English or the smoked salmon and
scrambled eggs. Come evening, the terrific veal steaks will
set you up very nicely for a night on the cocktails. QOpen
09:00 - 01:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 02:00,
Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (30-76z). TJAEGBSW
Pod Zotym Psem (Under the Golden Dog) B-3,
Rynek 41, tel. (+48) 71 372 37 60, www.zloty-pies.pl.
Down, down, down you go into level after level of labyrinthe
Rynek cellars, however the most popular spot here is under
the golden parasol on the market square. As such, the Golden
Dog asks you to pay tourist prices, but its only as nice as you
want it to be: keep it simple and affordable with a straight-
forward Polish dish or pay more to follow the chefs recom-
mendations. The lunch menu from 12:00-18:00 culls the best
of the rest of the diverse menu of Polish, Italian and Mexican
dishes and bargain bins them. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (16-70z). PTJA6GBSW
Przysta (The Harbour) A-2, ul. Ks. Witolda 2, tel.
(+48) 71 789 69 09, www.przystan.wroc.pl. Decked with
tall blonde wood chairs and tables and decorated with old
nautical illustrations and knot-tying charts, Przysta nonethe-
less remains thoroughly modern matching the design of the
well-placed new building it occupies. Across the river from the
main university building, the real reason to dock in this harbour
is the deck seating over the water which offers great views and
actually feels like youre on a boat. The concise menu offers
pastas, risottos and gorgeous salads - including the very brave
chicken liver salad with apple, avocado, orange and parmesan.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00,
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (25-68z). PTAUGBSW
Soho B-3, ul. Szewska 8 (entrance from ul. Oawska),
tel. (+48) 71 788 60 06, www.soho.wroc.pl. An appeal-
ing budget breakfast and lunch spot, Soho has taken a tight
menu of basic Polish fare and lightened it up with Italian flair:
local kitchen classics come with fresh herbs, Mediterranean
ingredients and actual attention is paid to their presentation.
The same can be said of the waitstaff whose dapper digs and
professionalism convey a refinement that has made Soho an
extension of the office for briefcase carrying thirty-somethings.
A smooth organic interior of wooden tables and leather chairs
with a downstairs grotto and fish tank round off this surpris-
ingly stylish budget lunch bar. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00, Mon, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (10-70z). PTAGBSW
OdNova E-4, ul. Wodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71 782 60
90, www.odnova.pl. Wrocaws most original restaurant,
making waves for all the right reasons. The menu here is as
experimental as any in town, with plenty of Asian influences
and lots of fruits popping into the recipes. Set on a street
that is fast becoming seriously trendy odNova features a
pseudo Moroccan design with lots of stenciled wallpaper,
plush violet colours and drooping chandeliers. Supremely
attractive, and complete with bar tenders capable of mix-
ing seriously delicious cocktails. Spirits come plucked out
from behind a gilded frame, before being expertly mixed by
black-clad good lookers. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri
12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (24-
62z). TAUGBSW
Okrasa A- 3, ul. Igielna 8, tel. (+48) 71 344 40
40, www.restauracjaokrasa.pl. An i nteresti ng menu
of pi zza, sal ad, soups and steaks i s made even better
by the presence of a coupl e of fi shy treats too: not
al ways the case i n thi s town. Expect thi s to be one
of the most packed out restaurants i n the l and, as
i ts good val ue and the tabl es by the wi ndows outra-
geousl y cosy. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00,
Sat 12: 00 - 24: 00, Sun 12: 00 - 23: 00. (14- 68z ).
PTAUGBSW
Pastelowa A-3, ul. Ruska 58/59, tel. (+48) 71 344 47
43, www.pastelowa.pl. The ubiquitous glistening European
canteen kitchen has just moved downstairs from its previ-
ous location but still comes with plenty of shiny surfaces
and bumbling student staff. A good location for reasonably
priced pancakes and desserts but little else, find it packed
at lunchtimes with local office and shop workers. QOpen
11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
(18-34z). PTAGSW
Maria Magdalena B-3, ul. w. Marii Magdaleny 2
(Qubus Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 797 98 20, www.qubusho-
tel.com. Another hotel restaurant that matches its accom-
modation with top-notch dining facilities. Choose from an
assembly of pan-Euro and traditional Polish dishes amidst
a swish interior decorated with dried flowers and pastel co-
lours. Q Open 07:00 - 10:00, 14:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00
- 11:00, 14:00 - 23:00. (25-84z). PTJAUGSW
Marina B-2, ul. Ksicia Witolda 2, tel. (+48) 71 794 00 01,
www.marina.wroc.pl. Very nice indeed. Seafood and pasta on
Wroclaws mini-marina, with a small terrace offering views over
the canal and the odd boat that uses it. Inside there are models
of boats everywhere (some doubling as salad counters) but its
all rather tasteful: its the gorgeous marine blue paint that does
it, or perhaps the classic chequered tablecloths. Check what the
dish of the day is before ordering. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 22:00. (18-45z). PTAUGSW
Mosaiq Restaurant & Wine Lounge A-3, ul. w.
Mikoaja 12, tel. (+48) 71 798 35 11, www.mosaiq.pl. If
youre looking for fine dining and a more upscale option, Mosaiq
endeavours to fill that niche. The name aptly describes the
congregation of talented chefs that honed their skills in Britain
serving an impressive menu based around a French motif
complimented by rare seafood specialties and an international
flair. They make so certain that all their ingredients are fresh
that there is no refrigerator (well, a small one for the ice cream).
Unique dishes for Wroclaw and specialties such as ray fish,
American-style pancakes, and an array of tartar-style meats
and steaks draw you in, and the enormous wine cellar can
keep you longer than you expected. Although their orientation
is toward a business clientele, they offer a 34 zloty lunch special
every day of the week. (They are closed on Sundays). QOpen
08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (35-120z). PTAUGBW
Mosaiq Restaurant & Wine Lounge
ul. w. Mikoaja 12, Wrocaw
tel.: (+48) 71 798 3511
info@mosaiq.pl, www.mosaiq.pl
Wrocaws most engaging street can be found connecting
Kiebanicza with Odrzaska, and though most of the
structures on Stare Jatki date from the 17th and 18th
centuries, the line of low level buildings were constructed
on medieval foundations - some elements from the 13th
century are still visible on the south side of the street.
Today the alleyway is home to numerous artists studios,
though in past times the principal industry here was meat,
the wooden stalls packed with the carcasses of butchered
beasts. The defining feature of Stare Jatki is the collection of
cast iron farm animals at the start of the street. Sculpted by
Piotr Wieczorek and erected in the 1990s this Memorial to
Slaughtered Animals was funded by the local government
(aside from the cock, paid for by the owner of Pod Zielonym
Kogutem bar), and serves not only as one of Wrocaws
most photographed attractions, but also as an obstacle
course for party casualties pouring out of Klub Na Jatkach.
Stare Jatki
A. Webber
40
RESTAURANTS
41
RESTAURANTS
to order a meal before 2pm as the chef ventures out each
afternoon for the fresh ingredients of each days menu.
As such the small daily menu sports about twenty well-
known Italian dishes including one or two soups, salads
and desserts. The wine-list is quite large considering the
modest size of Cantina, and of the one hundred or so
wines they offer about eighty come from various regions
of Italy. Like many spots in Wrocaw, they stay open until
the last customer leaves, so take your time tasting as
many wines as you can handle. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00.
(30-165z). PTA6GSW
Capri Trattoria Pizzeria B-2, ul. Wizienna 21, tel.
(+48) 71 343 20 71, capripizza.pl. Found inside the
Galeria Italia complex the style here is clear and simple,
with visual distractions essentially limited to the streetside
views and the theatrics of other diners. An ambitious range
of Italian dishes can be found here, with the real emphasis
placed on spaghetti, while the proprietors Italian origins are
unmistakable in their influence on the end product. Prices
remain pegged at sensible levels, providing prospective din-
ers with all the more reason to visit. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(9-160z). PTA6GBS
Da Andrea A- 3, Rynek 16/17, tel. (+48) 71 344
55 00, www.daandrea.pl. Definitely entering into the
conversation of Wrocaws best Italian, this fine-diner on
the market square foregoes folksy trattoria trappings in
favour of scarlet and burgundy surroundings, satin table
dressings, fresh flowers and most of all fine ingredients.
The menu begins with pizza, including a page inspired
by speci fi c members of Wrocaws gnome communi ty,
before covering an excellent range of authentic pastas,
gnocchi, risottos, fish and meat entrees, complemented
by an enormous list of European wines. The results are
exquisite and the service very professional, explaining the
large number of foreign business owners hashing out deals
in the two level interior. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (18-70z).
PTAUGBSW
il Gusto A-3, ul. w Mikoaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 342
00 11, www.ilgusto.pl. A classy restobar with an Italian
influenced menu which offers up a range of very good piz-
zas, pastas and soups. The chicken dish in cream sauce
with bacon and peppers can certainly be recommended
while a colleague has nothing but good things to say about
the salads. Once fed take up position on one of the soft
furnishings and watch the slightly maturer crowd get stuck
into the evening. Recommended. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 02:00. (14-42z). PAGBS
La Scala A-3, Rynek 38, tel. (+48) 71 372 53 94. Tried
and true La Scala enjoys a big reputation amongst locals,
despite revved-up Rynek prices and uneven service of the
bow-tied staff. Thats down to the food no doubt, with argu-
ably the best Italian in town in the exclusive upstairs eatery,
while the ground floor trattoria offers guests a cheaper, more
concise incarnation of the menu amongst red-chequered
tablecloths, pictures of rural Italy and strings of garlic.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (12-140z).
PTJABXSW
Novocaina A-3, Rynek 13, tel. (+48) 71 343 69 15,
www.novocaina.com. A fashionable eatery whose now tat-
tered menus testify to its popularity. An extravagant design
featuring plump scarlet fabrics is perfectly complimented by
the crowd of vamps found within the four walls. The cooking
features standard Italian offerings, from pizza and pasta
to decent pepper steak. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (25-70z).
PTJAGBSW
Vincent E-4, ul. Ruska 39, tel. (+48) 71 341 05 20,
www.vincent.wroclaw.pl. Set over numerous l evel s
Vincent is all woodcutters timber beams, warm corners
and dusky lanterns. It looks like an old country inn and the
food reflects the surrounds; manly servings of steak and
duck, but the menu changes regularly and they often have
themed-days with menus crafted around a particular cuisine
or ingredient . Not the cheapest meal in town, but certainly
worth the visit. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (36-81z).
PTJA6GSW
Italian
Amalfi B-2, ul. Wizienna 21, tel. (+48) 71 343 67 84,
www.amalfi.pl. Another of the numerous establishments
to have recently sprung up on this inconspicuous back-
street, this one is another Italian. Being named after that
small coastal town near Naples, the expectations are high.
Although we werent overwhelmed it did not disappoint by
any stretch of the imagination - especially as we were eating
pizza for breakfast. The setting is exceptionally authentic;
think terracotta tiles, large olive oil bottles and Italian land-
scapes covering the walls. With appropriately competitive
prices, the place actually represents very good value. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (20-68z). PTAUGBS
Cantina B-2, ul. Noownicza 4, tel. (+48) 71 324
17 96, www.cantina.wroclaw.pl. There are a slew of
fine Italian restaurants popping up Wrocaws Old Town
that maintain traditional and high standards for Italian
fare. Cantina does so with gusto. With mahogany dcor,
mandarin oranges and wine bottles in the windows, and
the I talian tri col our above the entrance, there is li ttl e
doubt you are entering a celebration of Italian cuisine.
Despite opening a couple of hours earlier, dont expect
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Spinacz F- 4, ul. Wizienna 21 (Galeria Italiana), tel.
(+48) 693 97 40 05. Another winner for the shabby-chic
set, this small corner bar features semi-stylish seating
your dad might have made in wood shop in 1971 and paper
tubes hanging from the ceiling. Students, backpackers
and other post-teen job dodgers love it - enjoying cheap
ciabattas, soup, salads and pastas between cigarettes
and fiddling with their hair - and wed agree that its pretty
great, particularly the potato and cheese fry-ups served
in the skillet. Perfect place to re-forti fy yoursel f during a
protracted night out on the town. QOpen 12:00 - 23:45.
(10-18z). PGS
Spi A-3, Rynek Ratusz 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 72 25,
www.spiz.pl. While the distant sound of merriment roars
from the Spi beer hall, the underground restaurant section
sits stubbornly empty, the bow-tied waiters left to lurk men-
acingly in the shadows. Long regarded as the brewmasters
of Wrocaws best beer (see Nightli fe), few come to Spi
for the food, but it might not be the worst idea to bolster
your bender with a bite to eat. In that case, choose from
a vast menu of average, uncomplicated and overpriced
traditional Polish and international fare deep within the
Town Hall. Does the job. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (40-90z).
PTJA6BXSW
Spiarnia E- 4, ul. Wodkowica 27, tel. (+48) 71
341 41 66, www.spizarnia.wroclaw.pl. A modern
joint with lots of blacks, reds and local office bods look-
ing like theyve just finished a tough day on the square
mile. Filled with tooting jazz sounds this is a lovely look-
ing venue, while the menu impresses with a selection of
quasi-fusion choices that come impeccably presented.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (18-52z).
PTAGBSW
Ul. Noownicza 4
tel. +48 71 324 17 96
+48 721 555 525
cantina@cantina.wroclaw.pl
www.cantina.wroclaw.pl
42
RESTAURANTS
43
RESTAURANTS
Japanese
Darea B-2, ul. Kunicza 43/45, tel. (+48) 71 343 53
01, www.darea.pl. A huge open plan space that does little
in the way of dcor, but plenty for the reputation of Korean
food. Overseen by a Korean chap who settled in Poland
over a decade ago Darea offers a cracking menu of both
Japanese and Korean dishes including yokhue (chopped
raw beef), bulgugi and five grill options where the cooking
is left to the patrons. Highly recommended and a confirmed
favourite of Wrocaws expats. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (8-
55z). PTAGS
Kyoto Sushi Bar & Japanese Restaurant A- 3,
ul. w. Mikoaja 7, tel. (+48) 71 783 04 06, www.
kyotobar.pl. Thi s smal l, si mpl e and successful sushi
spot i s a one-room af fai r wi th a tradi ti onal canal bar
behi nd whi ch the trendy stuf fed ri ce rol l s are prepared,
wi th addi ti onal seati ng for coupl es to the si de. The
extensi ve menu i ncl udes tempura, okonomi j aki and
other Japanese courses i n addi ti on to pages of sushi,
whil e the interi or is dominated by bri ght green hi ghli ghts
meant to emulate the large photo of bamboo behi nd the
sushi master. Pl easi ngl y authenti c wi thout maki ng you
feel l i ke you have to be a chopsti ck wi zard to set foot
i nsi de, don t mi ss the extensi ve col l ecti on of manga
comi cs on the smal l bookshel f by the door. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00.
(24-55z). PAUVGS
Planet Sushi A- 3, Rynek 46/47, tel. (+48) 71
343 71 18, www.planetsushi.pl. Pl anet Sushi is now
genui nel y across the pl anet, wi th branches stretchi ng
from New York to Wrocaw. These franchi se operati ons
have thei r cri ti cs but we l i ke the si mpl e, wel l pri ced
food - there i s tepanyaki for those who want more
Wrocaw
ul. Kunicza 43/45
reservation tel. (071) 343 53 01
fax. (071) 342 10 15
restauracja@darea.pl
www.darea.pl
than sushi - trai ned staf f and genui ne sushi si t at
the bar and choose l ayout. Tabl e servi ce i s avai l abl e,
but best to l eave such uncouth thi ngs for the touri sts.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-49z).
PTAGBSW
Sakana A-2, ul. Odrzaska 17/1a, tel. (+48) 71
343 37 10, www.sakana.pl. Arguabl y regarded as
the best sushi i n the capi tal, the Sakana team have
expanded to cover Wrocaw and the nati ves appear
to be l ovi ng i t. Exper tl y prepared raw fi sh fl oats by
on smal l boats i nsi de a pl easant whi te i nteri or deco-
rated spari ngl y wi th bamboo bi ts and bobs. Defi ni tel y
one of the addresses to be seen di ni ng i n, as proved
by the crowds of fashi oni sta who prop up the bar.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (30-80z).
PTA6UVGSW
Sushi 77 B-2, ul. Noownicza 1c, tel. (+48) 71 341
72 71, www.sushi77.com. Setti ng up shop di rectl y
across from Sakana, the arrival of Sushi 77 doesnt set off
a turf war as much as establish a veritable sushi district in
Wrocaw. While no one has ever accused Sakana of being
anything less than excellent, Sushi 77 can go toe-to-toe
with a haughty reputation of its own as one of the best-
regarded Japanese restaurants serving edible art crafted
in front of you by skilled fish-flayers. Priding themselves
on their guarded rice preparation recipe, 77 knows sushi
and expects you to as well, not letting anyone off the hook
with spring rolls or noodles. Its an expert effort, as the
new neighbours prove they can easily wax off whatever
Sakana waxes on across the street. Ying-yang, baby. Also
at ul. Powstacw lskich 2/4 (Arkady Wrocawskie; E-6)
and Pl. Grunwaldzki 22 (Pasa Grunwaldzki, H-4). QOpen
12:00 - 22:30. (19-59z). PTAGSW
Szajnochy 11 A- 3, ul. Szajnochy 11, tel. (+48)
71 342 30 62, www.szajnochy11.pl. Sushi chefs
work in plain vi ew behind the canal bar, foregoing formal
pretences wi th chatty camaraderi e, as prepared sushi
rolls float by ready to plucked onto the plates of patrons.
Thats not to say these gents don t know what theyre
doing - our ni giri and futomaki rolls were as good (and
as fresh) as any weve had anywhere, and i ts certainl y
refreshing to see a bi t of li ghtheartedness appli ed to
something as achingl y serious as sushi has been ever
since i t l eft Japan. Decor is mini mal but on the mark
wi th whi te wal l s and dark wood furni shi ngs, and l i ke
many other l ocal places, i t pays to appear during lunch
(served until 15:00) for bargain pri ced sushi sets, whi ch
- as you mi ght expect - can get qui te expensi ve other-
wise. Overall: simpl e, authenti c and, most of all, fri endl y.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (30-60z).
PTA6GSW
Jewish
Sarah E- 4, ul. Wodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 792
49 56. Located near the Whi te Stork Synagogue and
Jewish Community Centre, this is Wrocaws only Jewish
restaurant. With plenty of atmosphere thanks to earthy
colours, menorah candlelight and loads of antiques, Sarah
is reminiscent of the cafes found in Krakws old Jewish
district and teams with Mleczarnia to create one of the
best beer gardens in the city (note that this is only open
in warmer months). The budget menu is not kosher, but
features traditional Jewish dishes, and though reports of
their quality and that of the service is a little uneven, this
is still a great place to spend time in our opinion. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (11-24z). A6UGS
Pod II Strusiem A-3, ul. Ruska 61, tel. (+48) 71 343
43 23, www.pizzeriapodstrusiem.pl. Set in a former
public lavatory Pod Strusiem serves decent pizza inside an
aboriginal themed interior. Cheerful service ferries standard
value pepperoni, as well as maverick options like Indian pizza
and Bavarian pizza. Strangely, considering the theme, none
of the pizzas feature anything remotely linked with Australia.
The piece of paper handed to you at the start of the meal is
the electronic code for the toilet. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (14-43z). PTAVGSW
Pronto Pizza B-2, Pl. Uniwersytecki 9, tel. (+48) 71
781 88 88, www.prontopizza.com.pl. The selling point
for this nondescript pizza joint in the student district is the
patio, which commands a view of the grand university building
and a fountain topped by a naked swordsman. After a recent
renovation theyve made a bit more space for the bookish
students who fill the place. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (10-49z).
PJA6VGSW
Ristorante Convivio C- 3, ul. Purkyniego 1, tel.
(+48) 71 344 17 09, www.convivio.pl. Modern Italian
food served inside an absolutely gorgeous 14th century
Franciscan monastery full of soaring arches, candleabras,
white tableclothes and linen touches. This is fine dining and
priced accordingly, though the immaculate location - with a
lovely summer garden - ably covers much of the cost. In the
basement youll find the Lulu Belle Cafe - a veritable youth
culture centre with regular live concerts and events. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (20-86z). TAGBSW
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45
RESTAURANTS
tequila and rimmed with sugar (ay caramba), The Mexican is
a constant embarrassment. A vibrant atmosphere where the
waitresses have winning midriffs, this could be a fun place
for lads to have a few beers, but we strongly advise against
anything else. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Mon, Tue 12:30 - 24:00,
Wed, Thu, Sun 11:30 - 24:00. (15-50z). PTAEBXS
Middle Eastern
Alladins A-2, ul. Odrzaska 23, tel. (+48) 71 796 73
27, www.alladins.pl. Crossed scabbards and Persian rugs
hang from the walls inside a reddish Arabian Nights interior.
The menu is a predictable range of above average grilled and
skewered meats, and is definitely a cut above other Middle
Eastern options such as Sphinx. What you may not find is
good service; our waitress did an incredible job of making
us feel like an escaped pervert. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (16-25z). AGS
Piramida B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48) 71 344 58
44, www.piramida-rest.pl. Set inside an interior consisting
of Egyptian scrolls, fairy lights and hieroglyphs the chefs at Pi-
ramida have done their research (of the competition?) to bring
you the authentic dishes once enjoyed by the pharaohs: pizza,
kebabs with cabbage etc. Basically the poor mans Sphinx,
when the former closes its doors, youll always have Piramida
to remind you why it didnt last. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. (16-50z). PTJAEGSW
Sphinx B-3, Rynek 39/40, tel. (+48) 71 795 77 30, www.
sphinx.pl. Once considered by many Poles as the height of
sophistication, Sphinxs nationwide chain of identical restau-
rants offered cheap plates of poorly cooked kebabs and steaks
with heaps of cabbage delivered to your table by amiable men
dressed as penguins. However, since bankruptcy has struck the
food corp, the once ubiquitous chain has all but disappeared with
this outing on Wrocaws main square being one of the doomed
brands last Mohicans. Apparently the appeal of rubbery steaks
was strongest in Wrocaw where Sphinx has succeeded in
spawning numerous knock-offs that will remind you of what it
was like long after its gone. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 24:00. (21-60z). PTJAUGBSW
Polish
Art Restauracja i Kawiarnia A-2, ul. Kiebanicza 20,
tel. (+48) 71 787 71 02, www.arthotel.pl. A hotel restau-
rant that would thrive even without its captive audience of
hotel guests. The vaulted interiors of Art come decorated with
light colours, timber beams and wicker chairs, while visual
distractions include a well, local artwork and potted shrub-
bery in every conceivable form. The menu does the rest with
a strong line in maritime delights and regional Polish cuisine
in addition to well-presented modern Italian dishes. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00. (32-66z). PTJA6UGBSW
Chatka Przy Jatkach A-3, ul. Odrzaska 7, tel. (+48)
71 342 72 20, www.chatkaprzyjatkach.pl. This small,
popular self-service Polish eatery, across from the ul. Jatka
gallery stalls, achieves the trick of appearing like a rustic
village cottage if you dont notice the ceiling ductwork. En-
hancing the illusion is the genuine Bolesawiec folkware on
the tables (begging to leap into someones handbag), stout
wooden tables, timber fittings and a thatched awning over the
bar. The menu - conveniently available in Polish, English and
German - features all the Polish classics, but take note that
almost everything on it is fried. Despite the average food, this
veteran chow house still makes a fine place for a fast, local
lunch if you can score a table. And they take euros. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (18-22z). AGS
Mediterranean
Restauracja Acquario A-4, ul. Heleny Modrzejewskiej
2, tel. (+48) 71 772 37 80, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.
com.pl. The upscale restaurant on the rooftop terrace of the
legendary Hotel Monopol, Acquario offers an enticing card of
Mediterranean entrees with a special flair for seafood, but if
youre anything like us youll be just as interested in the wine
card. With a world-class list on hand, theres no better way to
relax than with a bottle of red enjoying the fabulous views over
Wrocaw through rose-tinted glasses. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. (69-89z). PTAUGBW
Splendido A-5, ul. widnicka 53, tel. (+48) 71 344 77
77, www.splendido.pl. An old timer thats been impressing
us ever since we first bowled into town nearly a decade back.
Cutting edge it isnt, but if youre after top notch Mediter-
ranean eats then you cant go far wrong. Only a Bolivian
drug lord would enjoy the excessive interiors, but theres no
faulting choices like the lamb haunch or Dover sole. QOpen
13:00 - 23:00. (47-83z). PTAUEGS
Mexican
Abrams Tower C-3, ul. Kraiskiego 14, tel. (+48) 71
725 66 52, www.abramstower.pl. Theres a deluge of
Mexican eateries in Wrocaw, and their popularity continues
to embarrass us. Sadly, this is the only one that gets it right,
thanks to Frederick Abrams - a California native whos done
the unthinkable and introduced quality Mexican food to the
city, no doubt acting on his own outrage upon trying the com-
petition. On offer are a line of fajitas, tacquitos and burritos,
made with authentic ingredients like fresh corn tortillas, real
cheddar cheese, Mexican rice and black beans; theres even
delicious Mexican coffee. In addition to Tex-Mex, the menu
also includes fusion-inspired tapas inventions to complement
the fine world wine list. Located inside an evocative 13th
century defensive tower, discover this three-level historic
building discreetly tucked in a courtyard off ul. Piaskowa, one
gate removed from Hala Targowa. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 16:00 - 02:00. (18-60z). AGS
Mexico Bar A-3, ul. Rzenicza 34, tel. (+48) 71 346
02 92, www.mexicobar.com.pl. We have major issues
with restaurants here when the cuisine attempted is in
anyway exotic. The temptation is to adapt ethnic cuisine,
particularly when spices are involved, to the Polish palate.
All too often huge effort and no doubt expense is expended
on the cosmetic details with much less attention paid to
what gets served up on your plate. This is a case in point and
this compact hacienda style venue is decorated with lots of
cacti, Aztec masks and Corona bottles chandeliers giving a
positive first impression. But the food just doesnt cut the
mustard and the all too regular sense of anti-climax appears
the moment the food arrives. We would like to believe that
wed be just as critical if we were eating at a Polish restaurant
outside of Poland. All that however doesnt stop this place
turning tables on a regular basis with the locals evidently
more than happy with what they get. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-60z). PTJAGS
The Mexican B-3, ul. Szewska 61/62, tel. (+48) 516
06 93 33, www.mexican.pl. It keeps getting worse. Most
recently, we accompanied a friend who, gringo that she is, went
ahead and ordered a vegetarian burrito. The results? A flour
tortilla filled with frozen peas and carrots on a bed of kraut,
topped with wimpy salsa and guacamole. Difficult to look at,
so I cant imagine her difficulty in eating it, an endeavour that
didnt progress very far. Home to expensive, flaccid margaritas
craftily clogged with ice and lemon slices, barely a trace of
RESTAURACJA SPLENDIDO A'LA CARTE
ul. widnicka 53, Wrocaw
tel. +48 (71) 344 77 77
restauracja@splendido.pl
www.splendido.pl
Restaurant Splendido a la carte was born frommy dreams...
Every day when we open Splendidos door we open our hearts as well
Beata Jankiewicz
46
RESTAURANTS
47
RESTAURANTS
Kunia A- 5, ul. Bogus awskiego 81, tel. (+48)
71 373 24 21, www.kuznia4you.com. Thi s smal l
Bogusawskiego locale hedges the line between bar and
eatery as card players enjoy the Czech Rohozec microbrews,
while others prepare for the long trawl ahead by bearing
down on the offerings of the rustic kitchen. The budget
menu encompasses everything from beer snacks to tripe
soup, and an entire page of rollers, which as we soon
discovered is apparently the house parlance for kebab.
Hardly a revelation, but nonetheless hearty, cheap and
popular, and i f you draw the same barmaid we did, prepare
to fall in love. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00.
(16-21z). PGBS
Multifood STP B-3, ul. Kunicza 10, tel. (+48) 501 10
34 01, www.multifoodstp.pl. A large self-service canteen
whose counters come manned with cheerful red clad staff
touting sun visors and t-shirts. The dining hall is largely
anonymous, but the food - plates of meat and veg - has
already won a loyal following. Everything is priced at 2.99z
per 100 grams, with your bill worked out once you reach the
end of the queue. Additional locations in Magnolia Park (E-
4; ul. Legnicka 58), Pasa Grunwaldzki (H-4, Pl. Grunwaldzki
22), Centrum Korona (ul. Krzywoustego 126) and Marino
Shopping Centre (ul. Paprotna 7). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
PTAUGSW
Piwnica widnicka A-3, Rynek-Ratusz 1, tel. (+48)
71 369 95 10, www.piwnicaswidnicka.com. Seems
thi ngs have gone downhi l l a bi t si nce thi s pl ace was
opened over 700 years ago, making it the first beer cellar
in Europe. Named after the Schweidnitz (widnica) beer
brewed in the basement back in those days, today it serves
primarily as an effective tourist trap where the labyrinth of
historic Town Hall vaults lure unwitting visitors into order-
ing rather average overpriced traditional food served by
uncaring staff. Nonetheless an Old Town landmark, you
may be wiser to simply have a walk around than stay for
pork hocks, though the Peasant Room - which serves pub
food better priced for paupers until 02:00 - may be a good
way to cross this one off your list. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(12-75z). PTAGBS
Pod Fredr A-3, Rynek - Ratusz 1, tel. (+48) 71 341 13
35, www.podfredra.pl. Pod Fredr is the newest, largest
and most impressive addition to the town-hall community
in the Rynek. If youre looking for traditional and genuine
Polish cuisine and want to enjoy it in the dead centre of the
Wroclaw universe, Pod Fredr is your spot. They cover the
traditional spectrum of Polish food, and have their very own
smokehouse onsite in which they proudly prepare the meat
for all of their dishes. The music, walls, and menu combine
to create a mini-microcosm of the old Polish village and
the staff will serve you dutifully in at least three languages
(Polish, German or English). The extensive country fare is
complimented by a large and international wine list, but
dont forget to order side dishes along with the main meal.
You need not worry about your eyes being too big for your
stomach as theyre quite happy to doggy-bag whatever
youre unable to put away. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (25-50z).
PTA6EBXSW
Pod Gryfami A-3, Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 33
89 ext.11, www.podgryfami.pl. On the ground floor
of this 14th century townhouse roosts an artsy, elegant
stained wood cafe well-suited for a glass of wine and a
cloudy conversation. But should your stomach lead you
towards their well -regarded restaurant youll descend
two di sori enti ng l evel s bel ow ground to an awkward
labyrinthe of ancient, sprawling cellars. Unfortunately the
Dwr Polski A-3, Rynek 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 48 96,
www.dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. Decorated with stuffed fal-
cons and enough medieval armour and weaponry to start a
national museum this is a suitably upmarket Old Town feed.
The menu focuses on boar, deer, pigs and ducks, all carved
up with pewter cutlery. If youre a vegetarian, run. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (25-65z). PTA6GBS
Gospoda Wrocawska A-3, ul. Sukiennice 6, tel.
(+48) 71 342 74 56, www.restauracjekrawczyk.
com.pl. A traditional restaurant featuring plenty of high
backed chairs, halberds, copper pans and 80s hits. The
menu is standard medieval fare, plus a fair amount of
game, with dishes like duck in King August II sauce arriving
on big wooden boards. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (18-72z).
PTA6UVGBSW
JaDka A-3, ul. Rzenicza 24/25, tel. (+48) 71 343 64 61,
www.jadka.pl. Faultless modern and traditional Polish cuisine
with a Lithuanian influence served inside an ornate, imperial
backdrop featuring vaulted brick ceilings, timber and starched
linen. The concise menu wont bowl you over, but the class and
quality will. Choose from catfish in leek mousse with spinach
(58z), potato pancakes with smoked salmon tartar (46z) or
sieze the moment by ordering wild boar. Expect an expansive
wine list, professional service and an all round commitment
to excellence. One of the few world class dining options in the
city. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (52-87z). PTA6GSW
Karczma Lwowska A-3, Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 71 343 98
87, www.lwowska.com.pl. The translation of this place tells
you almost all you need to know - Lviv Tavern is dedicated to
that former Polish city now in the Ukraine. Rustically decked out
in rural artifacts like traditional bundles of wheat, pumpkins and
a stuffed pheasant on almost every table - you kind of know
youre in for a special kind of feast. At first glance the menu seems
cheap, but even after youve noticed the side dishes on the next
page (chargeable separately) its very good value. The steak in
Leopolitan sauce (from Leopolis/Lviv) is top notch. Goes to show
that not everything on main squares is a tourist trap. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (25-80z). PTJA6EBXSW
Karczma Myska C-2, Wyspa Sodowa 10 (Tumski
Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 322 60 77, www.hotel-tumski.
com.pl. This place takes the standard traditional theme to
a higher level. Great riverside views, and an English/German
menu complement the fast service and gut-busting portions.
Whereas bratwurst in beer (16z) may not seem like the most
ambitious choice, it played its part in what was an enjoyable
experience from start to finish. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. (19-52z). TJAUGBSW
Karczma Piastw A-3, ul. Kiebanicza 6, tel. (+48)
71 372 48 96, www.dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. Part of the
network of rooms found on the ground floor of Dwr Polski.
Expect chunky peasant furnishings of colourful carvings and
piles of firewood, and similarly robust meals. The service is
gloomy, but the pork chops and pigs trotters make for a super
feast. The courtyard would be excellent, were it not for the
awful Astroturf and pop music. Why? QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(20-45z). TJA6GBS
Kurna Chata A-2, ul. Odrzaska 17, tel. (+48) 71 341
06 68, www.kurnachata.pl. Newly fitted brown windows
hide one of the top budget choices youll stumble across.
Feast on platters of uncomplicated Polish delicacies inside a
chalet-like, pub atmosphere. The prices are rock bottom, and
the food is the sort of culinary genius that only a grandmother
could perfect, so be prepared to wait around for a spare
table. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (8-25z). PTJAVGS
Those wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the world
of the Polish kitchen should consider putting the follow-
ing to the test:
Smalec: Fried lard, often served complimentary before
a meal with hunks of homemade bread. It sounds evil,
but it works like a miracle any day, especiall y an arctic
one. Ideally partnered with a mug of local beer. Any Polish
restaurant worth its sal t should give you lashings of this
prior to your meal. You onl y need ask.
Soup: Keep your eyes peeled for Polands two signature
soups; urek (sour rye soup with sausages and potatoes
floating in it) and barszcz (beetroot, occasionally with dump-
lings thrown in). Table manners go out of the window when
eating these two, so feel free to dunk bread rolls in them.
Bigos: Youll either love it or vomit. Bigos, a.k.a hunters
stew, is made using meat, cabbage, onion and sauerkraut
before being left to simmer for a few days. If you have
second helpings then consider yourself a Pole by defaul t.
Gobki: Boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion
and rice before being baked in a tomato sauce. Urban
myth claims Polands King Kazimierz fed his army gobki
before his victory outside Malbork in a battle against the
Teutonic Order. The unlikel y victory was attributed to the
hearty meal his troops had enjoyed before hand.
Kiebasa: Sausages, and in Poland youll find several variet-
ies made primarily with pork, but sometimes using turkey,
horse, lamb and even bison. Few varieties to watch for includ-
ing Krakowska, a Krakw specialty which uses pepper and
garlic, kabanosy which is a thin, dry sausage flavoured with
carraway seed and wiejska; a monster-looking u-shaped
sausage. Kiebasa was also the nickname of one of Polands
most notorious gangland figures of the 90s.
Pierogi: Pockets of dough traditionall y filled with meat,
cabbage or cheese, though you will also occasionall y
find maverick fillings such as chocolate or strawberries.
Placki: Nothing more than potato pancakes, often paired
wi th lashings of sour cream. Again, all your tradi tional
folksy Polish restaurants will have these on the menu, if
not you have every right to raise a few questions in the
direction of the kitchen.
Zapiekanki: Also known as Polish pizza. Take a stale
baguette, pour mel ted cheese on it and then cover it
wi th mushrooms and ketchup from a squeezy bottle.
Best eaten when absolutel y plastered. Where to buy it:
various fast food cabins dotted around the city centre.
Dessert: Few things in life get a Pole more animated than
a good dessert. Sernik (a kind of cheesecake) being a
must if you want to even attempt to convince a Pole you
have visited their country.
Kaszanka: This is the Polish variation of blood sausage,
in this case pigs blood mixed with groats, and is generally
served fried with onions. Unlike in other countries it is not
served in the form of a sausage. A variation on the blood dish
is Czernina, a soup made of ducks blood mixed with poultry
broth. An interesting tale is attached to this dish as it was the
dish served by the parents of young women to her suitors
as a sign that their proposal of marriage was not accepted.
Polish Food
48
RESTAURANTS
49
RESTAURANTS
Tasty dishes from around the world
HEALTHY VEGETARIAN CUISINE
VERY HEALTHY, VERY MUCH, VERY GOOD
WE INVITE YOU
THY, VERY MUCH, VE
www.greenway.pl
:52&$:, Galeria MAGNOLIA
MON.-FRI. 9:00 - 21:00, SUN. 10:00 - 20:00
WROCtAW, uI. Kunicza 11
MON.-SAT. 11:00 - 20:00, SUN. 12:00 - 19:00
Tas Tas TTTas Tas Tas Tas Tas Tas Tas Tas Tas Tasttty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ddddddis
ambiance of this fascinating space is a bit put off by an
abundance of random art on the walls and cheesy jazz
and rnb music. The food, however, is nothing to poke at,
with pork, duck and veal dominating the menu. The arrival
of our Caesar salad beneath a silver serving canopy only
seemed silly until we tasted it - somebody take a bow...
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (38-61z).
PTJA6BXSW
Pod Zotym Psem (The Golden Dog) B-3, Rynek
41, tel. (+48) 71 372 37 60, www.zloty-pies.pl. Oc-
casionally crowded, usually deserted, Under the Golden Dog
is a labyrinth of twisting stairwells and dark corners. Stout
furniture and rustic junk add plenty of rural flavour, while
the menu is a straight-forward choice of traditional dishes.
Likeable as opposed to memorable. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00,
Mon, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (16-70z). PTJA6G
BSW
Quchnia Polska A-3, Rynek 20-21, tel. (+48) 71 343
56 17, www.quchniapolska.pl. Obviously up market when
you enter, this place aims to combine innovative international
cuisine with classic Polish ingredients and additions. A cosy
interior with warm colours should be law in Poland with those
biting winters - this place fits the bill perfectly. Attractively
restored features of the old building, including (almost) flaw-
less coving. It was a first for us, but the dish of another diner
in the restaurant looked so good that we just had to have
the same; the chicken with mushroom sauce is excellent
alongside cooked spinach and pan fried potatoes with bacon.
Flawless food for sure. Located on the main square, with fit-
tingly exceptional views. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (21-69z).
PTAGBSW
Restauracja Domowa A-3, ul. Kotlarska 24, tel.
(+48) 71 787 87 84, www.restauracja-domowa.pl.
Just down the road from Cantina - where a number of Italian
eateries are taking root - is the new Restauracja Domowa.
They can best be described as a fusion between Italian
and Polish kitchens. Their extensive menu covers scores of
traditional dishes from both countries and even combines a
few of them for a unique Italo-Polish entre. Fortunately for
your wallet, their prices lean more toward Polish than Italian
as there are a number of tasty deals, and they even offer a
20% discount to any group that comes for a meal. For those
who like a big breakfast Domowa serves hearty fare from
around 11am through mid-afternoon and are flexible with
orders and requests (something not too common in both
Italian and Polish cuisine). If youre searching for Italian food
without the typically high prices for Wrocaw, a late breakfast,
or you just like mixing and matching national dishes, Restau-
racja Domowa may be your salvation. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (20-34z). PTAGSW
Restauracja Monopol A-4, ul. Heleny Modrzejewskiej
2, tel. (+48) 71 772 37 80, www.monopolwroclaw.
hotel.com.pl. The return of this historical building and its
restaurant to Wrocaws culinary scene is surely something
to be celebrated, particularly under the savvy stewardship
of Likus. Known under communism as the most exclusive
restaurant in Wrocaw, with queues stretching outside the
revolving doors and teams of bellboys shooing away anyone
not wearing a tie, menus and tableware would frequently
disappear into the pockets of souvenir hunters and the
restaurants reputation as a masterpiece was common
knowledge. Today that excellency is back in place with master
chefs preparing a wide range of traditional Polish dishes,
and an inspired breakfast smorgasbord starting each day.
A modern classic, just leave the cutlery when you go. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (59-79z). PTAUGW
Restauracja Teatralna F-5, Pl. Teatralny 4, tel.
(+48) 71 344 50 06, www.teatralna.wroclaw.pl. Down
the rabbithole you go into the absurd world beneath the
Lalek puppet theatre, where upside-down storefronts line
the walls and stuffed cats dine on the ceiling. Kids will love
the puppets, stage props and peculiarities of the play area,
and even get their own dining tables with surprises lurking
beneath the glass tops, while their parents host mad tea
parties and enjoy decent, but distinctly less colourful and
creative Polish and European classics. Overall its fitting
for a city of gnomes. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (26-93z).
PTAUEGBSW
Seafood
Fish Restaurant A-3, ul. Sukiennice 6, tel. (+48)
71 342 74 56, www.restauracjekrawczyk.com.pl. A
galleon-like interior comes complete with nets, lanterns and
bubbling portholes filled with nervous looking fish waiting
for their moment of execution. While the name wont be
winning awards for creativity this is the best seafood op-
tion to be found, with a menu offering an aquariums worth
of gilled options expertly prepared or off the grill, including
traditional Polish herring in oil, salmon tartar and stewed
catfish. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (24-96z). PTA6U
VBXSW
Vegetarian
Green Way F- 4, ul. Kunicza 11-13, tel. (+48) 71
341 90 98, www.greenway.pl. A canteen-style affair
offering decent fare to the health-conscious diner. Bites
on show include falafel, enchiladas, samosas and quiche,
and its very much hard to find fault with any. A bit lacking in
atmosphere, this is a budget hero and recognized as such
by the students, eco-warriors and modern mums who gather
here. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (8-15z).
PTAGSW
Vega B-3, ul. Sukiennice 1/2, tel. (+48) 71 344 39 34,
www.vega-wroclaw.pl. Possibly the most modest place
you can eat on Wrocaws market square, Vega offers little in
terms of atmosphere, with the decor of this canteen coming
courtesy of potted plants and adverts for kung-fu classes.
Set out over two floors, the upper of which is strictly vegan,
the food is cheap and good and consists primarily of meat-
less variations on Polish food, ie. meatless cutlets, potato
pancakes, majo salads and more. Not the most creative grub
youve had, but how many vegan restaurants have you seen
in PL, let alone on the main square? Note that the vegan part
has different opening hours: 12:00-18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. (6-14z).
PTJ6GBSW
Vietnamese
Lothus B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 22/23 (Lothus Hotel),
tel. (+48) 71 341 97 38, www.lothus.pl. This veteran
Vietnamese restaurant has aged rather well, retaining the
elegance of its large red-walled interior full of fine Asian art
and wood carvings thanks to the very same bow-tied, white
linen and wine glass mentality that makes it feel wonder-
fully old-fashioned. All rather surprising for a budget Asian
place whose menu features a mix of exotic culinary treats
at fairly cheap prices. We settled on the Malaysian-style
salmon, which was genuinely spicy and delicious. While
otherwise dining to the dumbing sounds of elevator music.
A very attractive lunch deal (15-20z) is available week-
days from 12:00-15:00. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (22-47z).
PTA6UGSW
Rynek 20/21
tel. 71 343 56 17,
quchniapolska@wp.pl
www.quchniapolska.pl
Rynek 16/17
tel. 71 343 14 13
restauracjaakropolis@wp.pl
www.akropolis.wroc.pl
A lot has changed over years since communism got
kneecapped and Poland joined the EU. Today a destina-
tion as popular as Wrocaw hardly seems any more alien
or adventurous to tourists than well-frequented Paris or
Venice. And while many of the old ways of the old days
have disappeared or become slightly disneyfied, one
relic remains steadfastly un-Western: the Polish milk bar.
These steamy cafeterias serving traditional cuisine to
an endless queue of tramps, pensioners and students
provide a grim glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and
have all the atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of a
gas station restroom. We love them. For the cost of a
few coins you can eat like an orphaned street urchin,
albeit an extremely well-fed one. Below we list the most
authentic milk bars the city centre.
Jacek i Agatka B-3, Pl. Nowy Targ 27, tel. (+48)
71 344 24 55, www.jacekiagatka.com.pl. QOpen
08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (2-10z).
JG
Mi B-3, ul. Kunicza 48, tel. (+48) 71 343 49 63.
No doubt named after the classic Polish comedy film
which caricatured milk bars during the communist era.
QOpen 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
(3-9z). JG
Misz Masz B-2, ul. Noownicza 14-16, tel. (+48)
71 343 90 67. Slightly less desperate than the aver-
age milk bar. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. (6-13z). PGS
Milk Bars
50
51
CAFS
Nefryt B-3, Rynek-Ratusz 1, tel. (+48) 71 369 95 10,
www.piwnicaswidnicka.com. Tucked behind a small medi-
eval door in the corner of the Town Hall (close to the pillory), this
tiny cafe comprises all of two tables, but is just so precious you
cant help dropping in. Seeming to exist strictly for coffee lovers,
choose between Segafredo, Illy or Mauro espresso and why not
have some homemade cake while youre at it?With a prewar
ambience highlighted by 20s dishware and Louis Armstrong on
the radio,the tables on the Rynek are a great place to relax and
people watch. A great find, Nefryt is perhaps only undermined by
the extravagant prices. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. AGBSW
Pijalnia Czekolady Wedel H- 4, Pl. Grunwaldzki
22/123 (Pasa Grunwaldzki), tel. (+48) 71 796 79 46,
www.wedelpijalnie.pl. The Wedel experience isnt unlike
stepping into the pages of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory.
Polands premier chocolate company has been busy launch-
ing cafes across the country where people can sample their
confectionary, and this place is no different from their other
ventures. Maroon coloured walls come festooned with pictures
of Wedels founding fathers, while dark woods and white
leather seating create an upmarket ambiance one wouldnt
expect of the mall location. Chocolate, cakes and pralines
of every description sit behind the glass counter, and prove
every bit as a delicious as the aproned angels who serve them.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. PAUGSW
Pomorzanka B-3, Rynek 59, tel. (+48) 71 346 06
92. The widest selection on ice cream, cakes and pastries
on the Rynek. Colour scheme provided by peach wallpaper,
white tables and blue-rinse grannies. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
JAGBSW
Soul Cafe A-3, Pl. Solny 4, tel. (+48) 71 343 47 83,
www.soulcafe.pl. A compact, narrow space thats still just
as trendy and popular as when it opened a fair few years back.
You dont have to have an oriental tattoo or a handbag full of
Bond-style gadgets but it certainly helps. Very white, very
minimal and highly recommended. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00,
Fri, Sat 07:30 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. PJAGS
Starbucks Coffee A-3, Rynek 44, tel. (+48) 71 386 16
24, www.starbucks.pl. The latest of the American super-
brands to appear in Wrocaw and seemingly already having
become immensely popular. Many seem to have no problem
adapting to the grande and tall size options (basically XL
and XXL), and its not difficult to spot people of all ages with
their sizable paper cups on Rynek (with plastic caps of course
- compensation culture sucks). Theres the usual array of cakes
and snacks, boisterous staff and free wireless internet too.
Does exactly what you expect it to. Also at Pl. Grunwaldzki
25-27, (C-3). QOpen 06:30 - 22:00, Fri 06:30 - 23:00, Sat
08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. PAGSW
Tralalala Cafe A-2, ul. Wizienna 21. Si tuated in
Galeria Italiana, and seemingly an essential addition due to
its offerings from the home of pasta, pizza and flamboyant
presidents. A cafe with an abundance of freshly prepared
Italian treats; youll find coffee, cakes and ice cream, as well
as hot chocolate, sweet croissants and also tea. Although
most of the tables are indoors there is outside seating too,
the retro decor with rock n roll legends is agreeable enough
and not overly kitschy. Busiest at the weekend. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00. P6GBS
Witaminka B-3, Rynek 52, tel. (+48) 71 343 15 24.
Excellent cake goes for 40z per kilogram in this large, airy
caf. Theres a sprinkling of chandeliers, plants and mirrors
by way of decoration, but Witaminkas more about the cake
than the atmosphere. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. JGS
ARKADY WROCLAWSKIE
Powstacw lskich 2-4
53-333 Wrocaw
TEL. 071-360-02-46
www.lulucafe.pl
Tere are places which take your breath away
LuluCafe will bring it back ... My cofee is my poem; )
Beata Jankiewicz
CAFS
Afryka Coffee Tea House A-3, ul. Kotlarska 32, tel.
(+48) 71 341 77 32, www.afrykacoffee.pl. In amongst
the exotic teas, gifts and other knicks and knacks that al-
ways have us in wallet-out scenarios, Afryka does good tea
and coffee and - whisper it - cocktails. In fact, we have sat
and watched this year as Afryka has become the preferred
drinks-before-home venue for Wroclaws classier ladies and
gents. Long may it remain so. Also at (A-3), ul. Kiebanicza
24. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00
- 22:00. PJAUGSW
Antrakt A-5, ul. Bogusawskiego 25, tel. (+48) 51 026
56 80. Antrakt is one of the main reasons why the former
Bogusawskiego hood is now a fine and almost respectable
place to be. It still has its edge and seedy side of course, but
if great little places like this keep opening up - a good eats
cafe serving all sorts of treats like tasty pierogi, Hawaiian
chops and such like - then underneath the railway arches
could soon be the hippest part of town. QOpen 12:00 -
24:00. P6GBS
Cafe Borwka A- 4, ul. widnicka 38a, tel. (+48)
71 343 12 25, www.slodkaborowka.pl. Resurrecting
the spi ri t and sweets recipes of the market squares
now-departed Pod Sodka Borwka cafe, Borwka 2.0
stands like a wel come centre at the fronti er of the Ol d
Town, di spensi ng cof fee to go, cooki es, cakes and
sandwi ches al ong the ri ver front promenade where the
ci tys medi eval walls once stood. Ameri can in atti tude,
Borwka roasts i ts own beans, brews i ts own j oe and
makes an i deal pi tstop en route to the bustl e of the
Rynek. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 21:00.
PA6GBSW
Cafeterie Chic C-2, ul. Katedralna 6, tel. (+48)
71 327 13 55, www.hotel - jp2.pl. Thi s mi ght j ust
be the quintessential Wrocaw caf. Find i t (whi ch you
must, i t is well disguised) j ust past the Cathedral over
on Ostrw Tumski, and enter a worl d of marbl ed fl oors,
tiny li ttl e tabl es, period lamps and the dreami est appl e
pi e and raspberry sauce in Poland. Popular wi th ladi es
of a certain age who have li ttl e to do except visi t cafes
and eat what they woul d call naughty cakes, i t mi ght
j ust be our favouri te place in Wrocaw. QOpen 09:00 -
21:00. PAGBS
Chocoffee B-2, ul. Wizienna 31, www.chocoffee.
com. Quite possibly the best cafe in Wrocaw. Found on
the corner of Igielna, the exterior is painted with phrases
and variations of the word chocolate in a dozen different
languages. Inside find a quiet, cosy cafe with fine marble
tables, classy wallpaper and comfy couches. A tantalising
number of chocolate and coffee concoctions are available,
hot or cold, to stay or to go. Not to mention the display full of
small sweets, truffles, fudge and other treats. Their chocolate
coffee with a scoop of vanilla ice cream? - the only reason
we get out of bed some days. A gem. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Mon 10:00 - 20:30, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:30.
PA6UGS
Coffee Planet A-3, Rynek 7, tel. (+48) 71 796 45
40, www.coffeeplanet.pl. More than just a smart coffee
stop, this venue has an artsy atmosphere, a great choice
of caffeine highs and a range of events that include DJ
sets, photo exhibits and drag queen shows, even. That
said it appears to be far more popular by day than at night:
when we visited first thing in the morning it was packed,
when we came back at 21:00 it was deserted. QOpen
07:30 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.
PA6BXSW
Czekoladziarnia E-4, ul. Wodkowica 19, tel. (+48) 71
797 57 16, www.czekoladziarnia.wroclaw.pl. Filled with
grinding contraptions and the rich smell of roasted coffee
beans, everyone from floral-outfitted motherly types to first-
daters fill this place. Dimly lit and equipped with a few sofas
this is a top choice if youve got an hour to lose. The name
refers to the numerous sweets and treats found behind the
counter, including the option of enjoying a chocolate fountain,
while local artists have opened a womens fashion boutique
(Ubieralnia, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-14:00)
in the adjoining salon. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 -
22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. TA6GSW
Falanster E- 4, ul. w. Antoniego 23, tel. (+48) 609
66 13 30, www.falanster.pl. In addition to serving as
a cafe, gallery and sociall y conscious free trade shop,
this veritable cultural centre is also a bookstore with an
expanding English-language section thanks to a recent
cooperation with Krakws legendary Massolit bookstore.
Check it out. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 14:00 - 20:00.
A6EGSW
K2 A-3, ul. Kiebanicza 2, tel. (+48) 71 372 34 15,
www.herbaciarniak2.wroclaw.pl. Hidden up the narrow
stairs this is a beautifully charismatic teashop, full of creak-
ing floorboards and chintz fabrics. Marvellously dainty, youll
find dozens and dozens of odd infusions to pick from, as well
as a concise choice of homemade cakes. Amazing. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. JGBSW
Kalaczakra B-3, ul. Kunicza 29a, tel. (+48) 71 372
35 71 ext. 35, www.kalaczakra.com. A budget beauty,
with stone clad flooring juxtaposed against walls of weird
artwork, dimmed lighting and gentle looking yogic folk.
Run by the same people behind the next door Kalambur,
so expect much of the same spaced-out spirit, as well
as an array of healthy, planet-conscious eats. Check out
their film screenings for something really potty. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00.
6UGBSW
Kawiarnia Literatka A-3, Rynek 56/57, tel. (+48) 71
341 80 13, www.kawiarnialiteratka.pl. A splendid cafe/
bar on the main square, and living proof that the Rynek is
more than just a tourist minefield. Patrons can be seen and
seem book-smart under the outside awning or retreat into
the two-floor interior filled with framed portraits of literary
luminaries and ceiling to floor shelves straining under the
weight of Polish hardback classics. Decorated with dark
wood furnishings under floral upholstery, red drapes, chan-
deliers and an illuminated globe, Literatkas artsy elegance
outclasses most market square options. QOpen 10:00 -
02:00. A6BXSW
Lodziarnia La Scala A-3, Pl. Solny 10, tel. (+48) 71
342 00 82. Servings of top-class ice cream and some half
decent paninis keep La Scala choc-full of sweet toothed
locals. Sit inside to marvel at the cherubs on the ceiling - most
likely painted by the owners children. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PJGBS
LuLu Cafe E-6, ul. Powstacw lskich 2-4 (level 0,
Arkady Wrocawskie), tel. (+48) 71 360 02 46, www.
lulucafe.pl. Far nicer than we would ever expect a cafe
in a shopping centre to be. The armchairs arent just the
most comfy in Arkady, they might well be the most comfy in
Wroclaw. As for the refreshments the frappe is very good,
but what had us drooling was the ice cream and the cracking
selection of cakes. You will not want to leave. QOpen 09:00
- 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. PA6UGS
Art Restauracja i Kawiarnia A-2, ul. Kiebanicza
20, tel. (+48) 71 787 71 02, www.arthotel.pl. A
Swedish table (buffet) style breakfast using lots of
ecologicall y produced and natural ingredients from
the Silesian region. Find it in the Art Hotel.QBreakfast
served 6:30-10:30, Sat, Sun 07:00- 10:30. PT
JA6UGBSW
Bernard B-3, Rynek 35, tel. (+48) 71 344 10 54,
www.bernard.wroclaw.pl. On offer find scrambled
eggs, sausages, muesli with fruit, baguettes with cheese
and ham, croissants with jam and honey and white
cheese. Q Breakfast served 09:00-12:00. (8-21z).
PTAUBXSW
Kuchnia Marche A-5, ul. widnicka 53, tel. (+48)
71 343 95 65, www.marche.com.pl. Probably the
cheapest breakfast in town with scrambled eggs, frank-
furters or omelettes with bread and butter costing 4.90 z.
Also available are sandwiches from 4.50z. Q Breakfast
served Mon - Fri, 09:00-11:00. PTAUGSW
McDonalds B-3, Rynek 30, tel. (+48) 694 49 60
09, www.mcdonalds.pl.QBreakfast served 07:00 -
10:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00. PTAUGBSW
Pod Papugami A-3, ul. Sukiennice 9a, tel. (+48)
71 343 92 75, www.podpapugami.com.pl. 14 differ-
ent breakfast options including an English and American
version. Q Breakfast served Tue - Fri, 09:00 - 12:00.
(12-36z). JAGW
Breakfast
52
NIGHTLIFE
53
NIGHTLIFE
Celtic Pub & Restaurant E-4, ul. Ruska 51 (Pasa
Niepolda), tel. (+48) 71 344 34 25. Dont let the name
fool you, this is in no way an Irish bar, in fact it seems to be a
little bit of everything but. A vast two-level fly-trap in Pasa
Niepolda filled with a few metal medieval-minded trinkets and
orange vinyl seating (ugh), waitresses serve up Polish beer
while a DJ tries to get them to stand up and hit the dancefloor
in the downstairs dining area. We wouldnt recommend either,
in fact just keep moving. QOpen 11:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun
18:00 - 05:00. PAXW
Coolturka A-3, ul. Odrzaska 6, tel. (+48) 71 341
04 62, www.coolturka.pl. Busy black-clad staff serve
the drinks inside this wannabe Warsaw copycat space,
whi ch comes wi th tri mmi ngs l i ke zebra pri nt seati ng,
exposed pipes and naked brick walls. The crowd is young
and game, and the fun continues well into the night in the
downstairs area. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 -
04:00. PJAGW
Czeski Film A-3, ul. Kiebanicza 2, tel. (+48) 71 342
25 49. Walk straight past the non-descript cafe on the
ground floor and descend into the dimly-lit basement below.
Find a maze of rooms regularly heaving with students putting
the finishing touches in place for their prospective hangovers.
A top spot to associate with friendly locals who are more than
willing to introduce you to the messy world of Polish vodka.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Thu 09:00 - 01:00, Fri 09:00 - 02:00,
Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PABX
Drink Bar Magosia A-3, ul. Odrzaska 39/40, tel.
(+48) 71 343 58 82, www.malgosia.wroc.pl. Ja and
Magosia - the slim little buildings on the corner of the Rynek
- are as tempting as the witchs candy house in Hansel and
Gretel. From the outside, that is. What could be an excellent
bar transpires to be little more than a long, dank room with
ghastly souvenirs in the entrance, and two wooden tables
in the back. Grumpy barflies will love it, others will give it a
swerve.QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. AGB
Error A-3, Rynek-Ratusz 10, tel. (+48) 71 342 55 26,
www.prl.wroc.pl. The biggest error you can make here is to
start your drinking early; theyre open round-the-clock, mean-
ing theres no final call to curtail prattish drunken overtures to
the table of blondes next to you. In late hours find after-party
casualties flopped on the blue banquettes, making sense of
their brain damage and staring blankly at the photo portraits
of rock icons. Q Open 24hrs. PABXW
Fanaberia E-4, ul. Ruska 51b (Pasa Niepolda), tel.
(+48) 71 344 53 91. There are so many bars tucked
away in Pasa Niepolda you expect it to be permissible to
carry drinks between them (well, its not). Fanaberia is a
cornerstone of the action, though not necessarily one of your
better options. A two-level bar with brick and sienna walls
adorned with mirrors, lanterns, jazz posters and supported by
a random Doric column, this generally unmemorable but solid
good times pub fetches an older crowd. The menu features
strange beer cocktails as well as cheap Polish food and pizza
from the adjoining Bar Papryka. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sat,
Sun 18:00 - 02:00. AGW
Firlej E-5, ul. Grabiszyska 56, tel. (+48) 71 795 66
67, www.firlej.wroc.pl. One of Wrocaws best kept se-
crets. In The Know art students and wannabe playwrights
fill this top-notch venue. The interiors wont inspire flights
of artistic creativity - youll find many hotel bars with more
daring decorations - but the live music shows make the
atmosphere crackle and fizz. Q Open only during concerts.
PEGW
Academus A-3, ul. Kiebanicza 23, tel. (+48) 71
788 77 10, www.academus.pl. On the surface Acade-
mus is far from captivating; sparingly decorated with a
couple of medieval bits and bobs (including a weird ball
and chain thing above the door). By the stairwell youll find
a giant world map dotted with pins indicating visitors from
across the world. The reason for this is evident: excel-
lent Polish microbrews courtesy of Kolak and Ciechan
breweries as well as Belgian Leffe. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00.
PJAUGW
Baagan A-5, ul. Bogusawskiego 87, tel. (+48) 71
332 61 36. Squeezed between a peep show and a dive
bar, Baagan isnt as much of a Mess as the name and
circumstances would suggest. Moth-eaten sofas, yard
sale scrap, celtic symbols, unplayable instruments and
other eccentric touches fit naturall y with the laid back
atmosphere and actually make better use of the limited
space, wi th more wiggl e room than nearby bars. Beer
conneisseurs will delight in the delicious Czech beer from
the Litovel brewery on draft in dark and amber, 13% and
11% respectively. One of the highlights of a night in the
neighbourhood. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 -
04:00, Sun 17:00 - 02:00. GB
Bierhalle A-3, Rynek Ratusz 24-27, tel. (+48) 601
67 74 52, www.bierhalle.pl. Forget Spi, thats old hat;
youll find the best beer in town served in Bierhalle. Do your
drinking under the parasols of their prime Rynek real estate
during the sunny season, retreating into the restaurant during
those six months of the year when wilful impairment is forced
indoors. Continuing Wrocaws long brewing tradition, this lot
does it all on-site and a lot better than the neighbours with
wheat, pilsner and dark beers among those on draft. Prices
are aimed at German tourists, and lager lovers that they
are youll find plenty of them happy to pay for the privilege
of a good ale. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 24:00.
PAGBW
Cafe Artzat A-2, ul. Malarska 30, tel. (+48) 71 372 37
66, www.artzatcafe.pl. This one certainly blurs the lines
between cafe and bar, particularly when you arrive for coffee,
discover the range of great Czech beers on offer and take a
hopeful look at your watch. Though possessing more of an
old-fashioned cafe atmosphere (as further evidenced by the
mature clientele) and presenting an ideal afternoon place to
retreat from the world with a good book, the fact of the mat-
ter is theres a lack of sweets on hand and coffee just isnt
that good; the beer is. Scarlet walls, glass sconces, framed
photos and American wartime jazz and boogie flesh out this
portrait of one of Wrocaws more underrated bars. If youre
planning on using the wifi, be aware that almost none of the
electrical outlets here actually work. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAXW
Casa de la Musica A-3, Rynek Ratusz 11/12, tel.
(+48) 71 343 72 62, www.casadelamusica.pl. A fun and
welcome addition to the Rynek, this Cuban-themed music
club takes all the best aspects of Cuban culture, sparing
patrons glorified portraits of Che in preference for colourful
framed cigar labels, an antique cash register and proper
mojitos. With Latin DJs playing passionate salsa, rumba
and merengue music, the lack of a designated dancefloor
deosnt stop anyone from cutting a rug; in fact the smooth
DJs often leave their station to take local lasses in hand and
put on a dancing clinic. If you know how to move to this music,
consider yourself money in the bank; if not, be careful - or
your girlfriend will have the time of her life while you sit and
shrug down a beer. Chump. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
14:00 - 05:00. PAUGBW
COCKTAILS: Way too many places to mention, but
notes of distinction go to Wroclaw stalwarts Paparazzi,
Novocaina, Pod Papugami and Fly Bar. Klub 54 stirs
martinis and spins decent sounds.
STUDENTS: The courtyards off ul. Ruska, namely Pasaz
Niepolda, are full of studenty bars and clubs with Niebo
standing out as the areas most damn-the-torpedoes
dawnbreaker. The other great student place in town is
Mleczarnia, where you are guaranteed to meet more
interesting people attracted by each other and by
the well priced beers than in all the other citys pubs
put together.
LADS: Guinness for football and dare we say it the
best Guinness in town, while for rowdy nights on the
beer the Spiz and Bierhalle will do the trick, with added
sausages or you can always try your luck at the lively den
of iniquity that is Klub 13 Igiel.
COUPLES: Paparazzi is not the Bond Girl -hell the
name suggests, but in fact the top livener venue in the
city and a perfect place to kick off your evening with a
romantic drink or two. Move on to Salvador as things
get a little more intimate, before ending the night either
with jazz at Ragtime or a turn on the dancefloor at
Schody Donikad.
ALTERNATIVE: Wroclaw has an admirable indy/at
scene with Niskie ki being the choice for new wavers,
while Strefa Zero is the ultimate dive for tattooed
headbangers. The citys true counter-culture scene
squats at CRK and is open at weekends. Find it at (F-3),
ul. Kazimierza Jagiellonczyka 10c/d.
Nightlife at a Glance
Wroclaw bars are flexible - no matter what the official clos-
ing times are, most will stay open until the last customer
has crawled out. The lions share are concentrated around
the Old Town market square, but for more alternative
drinking destinations also check out the tipplers strip
below the ul. Bogusawskiego train tressle (F-5), and
destinations west of the market square, namely ul.
Wodkowica (A-4), the courtyards off ul. Ruska (E-4) and
the secrets of the old train station on Plac Orlt Lwows-
kich (E-4). Happy hangover.
Bars & Pubs
7 Kotw (7 Cats) A-3, ul. w. Mikoaja 8-11, tel.
(+48) 71 341 04 88. Filled with floral curtains, ceramics
and wooden chests this spot has a warm atmosphere, and
permanently hums with the sound of students getting drunk.
On the bar find a big brass bell for calling last orders, a tap
serving Murphys, and a collection of rather nice bar girls to
look at. QOpen 14:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 04:00.
PJABX
Abrams Tower C-3, ul. Kraiskiego 14, tel. (+48)
71 725 66 52, www.abramstower.pl. Set within the only
surviving remnants of Wrocaws medieval city defences,
Abrams Tower is a little tricky to find tucked in a courtyard
off ul. Piaskowa, but your map flapping is rewarded by a highly
unique space set over several levels. In addition to the first-
rate fusion and tex-mex kitchen, choose from a knock-out
wine list, Ciechan microbrews and a particular staff favourite,
the unpasteurised ywe in a supremely lazy atmosphere
ideal for budding romance. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 02:00. AG
Klub Salvador - la hacienda de uciecha
50-062 Wrocaw
pl. Solny 16 (entrance from ul. Szajnochy)
tel. kom. +48 784 357 368
www.salvador.pl
54
NIGHTLIFE
55
NIGHTLIFE
Marrakech B-3, ul. Kurzy Targ 3. Students take note!
This bar caters to the youth and sizable university population
of the city. New but quickly established as a popular and
central haunt, we were pleased to find the party in full swing
at 2am on a Wednesday. Fake silk everywhere goes only a
little way to creating an authentic Moroccan mood, but a
great chillout room is much more convincing, with a mass of
cushions pouffes et al. Only the shisha/nargila/hooka pipes
are missing from the latter. A good stop for a both a dance
and cosy chat. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PG
Miodosytnia A-3, ul. Kiebanicza 6, tel. (+48) 71 372
48 96, www.miodosytnia.wroclaw.pl. A handsome, mod-
ern marketing design and the immediate scent of vanilla lure
you down into what is little more than just another cellar bar
with bright, geometric honeycomb patterns sparsely disrupting
the exposed brick. Sleek tables, rock music and mid pitny
(mead, or drinkable honey) round out what is a thoroughly
decent place for a drink, but unfortunately, with the exception
of a barmaid, theres not much real honey in this hive. QOpen
17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 01:00. AEGBW
Mleczarnia E-4, ul. Wodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 788 24
48, www.mle.pl. We have been coming to this dark, back-
street pub where candlelight is the order of the day ever since
we have been coming to Wroclaw. Everything about it, from the
fact you get served at the bar (order, pay, move along, take drink,
go to table) to the obscenely good mix of music (always played
at just the right level) is top class. Of late we have also fallen in
love with the apple cake they serve some evenings. Honestly,
its the kind of place we could live in. Some regulars appear
to actually do so. QOpen 08:00 - 04:00. JAEBXW
Niebo E-4, ul. Ruska 51 (Pasa Niepolda), tel. (+48) 71
342 98 67, www.niebocafe.pl. As long as you keep drink-
ing, Niebo will stay open, and this has become an after-hours
cult classic packed with students obliterating scholarships
well after dawn; when one drops off theres three more to
replace them. A long, dog-eared, scarlet and blue bar full of
random art photos and oddities, Niebo is the start and finish
point for many Ruska pub crawls, so youll have to step over
a few casualties on your way to the dancefloor, pumping your
fist to the classic rock and 90s anthems. With Murphys on
tap for 12z, you dont really need to do much better than
this. QOpen 13:00 - 05:00, Mon 17:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat
13:00 - 08:00. PJAUEBXW
Niskie ki E-4, ul. Ruska 46c, tel. (+48) 601 82 11 17.
Work your way deeper and deeper into a certain Ruska rab-
bithole/courtyard and you may notice the door to this windowless
underground counter-culture centre in the midst of all the graf-
fiti art. An anchor of Wrocaws alternative scene following the
mantra Love Music, Hate Racism, Niskie ki is full of colourful
stockings and DIY haircuts with randomly painted tables and
walls, avant-garde art exercises including roses pinned to the
ceiling and an enormous glowing Mickey Mouse behind the bar.
The actual barman, meanwhile, can be found carousing with his
friends, so let someone know if you need a drink. Here its all about
music as much as attitude, with new wave, punk, alternative and
indy rock getting airtime, as well as occassional live concerts,
film screenings and other happenings. Recommended. QOpen
18:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. EGB
Novocaina A-3, Rynek 13, tel. (+48) 71 343 69 15,
www.novocaina.com. A main square location guarantees
the crowds, but theres plenty more to recommend about this
spot aside from a ground zero location. Black clad blondes
humour your fractured attempts at Polish from behind a
large bar, while portrait frames hanging from the walls
reveal plasma screens relaying thin girls doing their thing
Fly Bar B-2, ul. Wizienna 21c, tel. (+48) 71 346 88
01, www.fly-bar.pl. Describing itself as a place for coffee,
business and before party this FTV lounge for flyboys features
swish burgundy drapes, black booths and crystal chandeliers
in neon pink boxes with other bling touches including the
statuesque pink flamingo on the bar and black doberman in
the window. Chill music and a keep-it-tucked policy prevent
clients from destroying pretenses by having too much fun.
Flybar is perhaps the last place youll find a barfly. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. PAUGBW
Graciarnia Pub A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 39, tel.
(+48) 71 795 66 88, www.graciarnia.com.pl. If you want
to drink among students wearing big beads and striped
stockings, then head to Graciarnia, where decoration surely
comes courtesy of an abandoned ship. Here its all tables that
shake and wobble, sofas where every spring is felt, headless
mannequins, theatre costumes and scarlet walls throughout
an endless series of unique rooms where an obscure musical
menu matches the beatnik mood. If you like Mleczarnia, youll
love Graciarnia - perfect for cuddling your date on an antique
loveseat and looking like the heights of hip indy culture at the
same time. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Mon 15:00 - 02:00, Sat
16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. AUXW
Guinness A-3, Pl. Solny 5, tel. (+48) 71 344 60 15,
www.restauracjekrawczyk.com.pl. It took the barman
two attempts to pour our Guinness, but he got there in the
end: at 17z a pint we would have expected he got it right the
first time, but you cant have everything. This three-level pub
on the corner of Plac Solny and Ruska is a decent enough
boozer, and football fans should be aware that this is just about
the only place in town you are likely to find your match on the
television. Theres half-decent pub grub on offer, and live bands
most evenings. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PJAEBXW
Havana E-5, ul. Kolejowa 20a, tel. (+48) 71 786 70 71,
www.havanaclub.wroclaw.pl. Expect the usual story: huge
portraits of Che and Fidel stare from the walls, while palm
leaves and low vaulted ceilings add a murky, cluttered atmo-
sphere. Suck away on a plump cigar while the barstaff mix a
range of rum-based cocktails to the cheerful backing noise
of salsa and rumba sounds. Its good, though a bit of a tired
theme at this point, particularly for one of questionable taste.
One can only wonder if there are dozens of bars glorifying
Stalinism in Cuba. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00,
Sat 13:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 02:00. PAGBW
il Gusto A-3, ul. w Mikoaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 342 00
11, www.ilgusto.pl. Perfectly located to catch the spill-off
from the ever-popular Maana upstairs, Il Gusto is up to the
challenge with a likeminded playlist of funk, Bowie remixes, MJ
and other danceable hits. With a makeshift dancefloor in front
of the long bottle-lined bar, the crowd kicks it out amidst a large,
modern space of frosty mirrors and plush black booths. The inte-
rior is a balance of industrial, rustic and straight chillout - the only
regret being an overabundance of close-up photos of guitars
being wanged. Serving as a relaxed restaurant during the day,
with a seasonal summer garden when the sun appears, after
hours il Gusto attracts a slightly more mature crowd, though
they hardly behave that way. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Mon, Sun
17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. PAGB
Inspiracja A-3, Pl. Solny 16, tel. (+48) 71 346 09 83,
www.inspiracja.wroc.pl. Split in two sections. Out back
black tie waiters hover around in an olde world, international
restaurant. In the front, a hip bar with lounge seating, dim
lighting and waitresses who could have stepped from the
pages of a magazine. Behind the bar well-trained staff mix
knockout cocktails. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. AGB
John Bull Pub A-3, Pl. Solny 6/7a, tel. (+48) 71 344
25 20. On the face of it this is a classic English pub, and it
looks the part with a low ceiling, convincing bar and a decent
range of ales. Given that just about every Englishman in
Wrocaw pops his head in at some stage to ask, You showing
the match tonight? its nice to know that they have at last
taken the hint and got themselves a television. And all was
right in the world. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:30 - 02:00.
PJAEGBW
Kultowa A-4, Pl. Wolnoci 7, tel. (+48) 71 790 00 33,
www.kultowa.pl. Named after and owned by a cult Polish
rock n roll band, curiously named Kult. Having made their
fortune in previous musical endeavours, they have now
opened a very nice rock bar/club in a cavernous basement.
This is one of those new breed of places in Wrocaw to have
maximised the smoking-ban loophole; theres actually only
a tiny, dark and dingy non-smoking room - the rest of the
spacious bar being the smoking room. How long this will
last is anyones guess, but for now it seems to be more
appreciated than abhorred. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
17:00 - 04:00. PAEXW
Lamus A-5, ul. Bogusawskiego 97, tel. (+48) 791 76
00 66. Amongst the sex shops, peep shows and bender beg-
ging bars of ul. Bogusawskiego, youll find Lamus - certainly
the darkest, most unscrubbed dive of the lot. Decor would
include the brick walls covered in tree bark with dead trees
chained to them, the hatchet over the bar, the dreadlocked
barmaid and heavy drinkers hassling her. Not without its
charms, Lamus favours an eclectic playlist of underappreci-
ated or unknown music, but like a true dive bar the main draw
is dirt cheap, delicious beer. A tribute to Czech brewmanship,
the beerlist offers a range of bottled varieties or choose be-
tween the dark, wheat, premium or unpasteurised Primator
on tap. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. GB
Liverpool A-4, ul. widnicka 37, www.liverpool.wro-
claw.pl. Oh dear, what were we expecting? Descend the
stairs past posters of AC/DC and Metallica (who knew they
were English?) into this brick and black-walled hole in the
head where amateur barmen serve barely-of-agers who have
escaped their parents houses to listen to devil music and
practice drinking. No English ales or even a match on - this
is a straight Polish rocker bar, long hair and oversized black
t-shirt compulsory. Regular events include jam sessions,
local live acts, theme parties and Wednesday game nights
featuring Guitar Hero, poker, Warhammer and Magic the
Gathering - check their website if you really want to know.
Finding i ts demographic, Li verpool is certainl y popular
and would make an ideal work night for undercover cops.
QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun.
PEXW
Lulu Belle Cafe C-3, ul. Purkyniego 1, tel. (+48)
607 79 31 11, www.lulubellecafe.pl. Located in the
basement of a reconstructed 14th century monastery,
Lulu Bell e goes by the sl ogan Rock is about to get a
whole lot cooler and actively advertises its temperature
(a steady 20 degrees Celsius). Be that as it may, this is
a huge multi functional space with a gallery, 2 stages and
a regular schedule of DJ nights, live concerts and events
with everything from jam sessions (Weds) to dance par-
ties (weekends). Given a slight industrial aesthetic full of
cushions, the toilets feature flippant art full of crass T-shirt
slogans (Behind every great woman is a man checking out
her ass) you wouldnt be surprised to see outfitted on the
teenagers and ageing rockers that have made this place
popular. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00.
Closed Sun. AEBXW
Przedwojenna - zakski, przekski B-3, ul.
Sukiennice 1/2, tel. (+48) 791 12 05 25. Brilliant
little place barely more than a hole-in-the-wall yet manag-
ing to be the kind of eatery you want to spend all day in.
The sausages help - one portion is never enough - as
does the endless troupe of locals that pops in every
two minutes for lunch or an early dinner. Cheapo beers
and staff who are always ready to chat explain why it
is always packed. On the way to becoming a Wroclaw
legend.QOpen 24hrs. P
Bistro Przemysowe B-3, ul. Kurzy Targ 3. This is
how to do good, cheap, simple yet very tasty food. All
your Polish favourites are here, from herring to sausages.
Throw in cheap beer, a crowd of lunching or after-work
locals and you have what might very quickly become the
quintessential Wroclaw eatery. Sit yourself down at the
bar for maximum Im a local/regular effect. Q Open
24hrs. PGBSW
ubu Dubu Bistro A-2, ul. Odrzaska 24-29, tel.
(+48) 71 790 40 61. Much like Setka on the other side
of the Old Town, Bistro ubu Dubu is a celebrated throw-
back to Communism, but with a little more pizzazz, poppy
music and a more stylized interior. Almost every inch of
wall-space is covered with black and white newspaper
clippings from the Communist era, graffiti-style Commu-
nist slogans, along with murals and propaganda posters.
The prices also seem to be straight out of another era
with drinks at 4 zloty and food (all very traditional Polish
fare) at 8 and 12 zloty apiece. Although you wouldnt
expect high ceilings, modern styling and trendy dcor in
an homage to an era known for depravity, colourlessness
and simplicity, ubudubu somehow pulls it off. Q Open
08:00 - 02:00, Wed 08:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 24hrs,
Sun 00:01 - 02:00, 08:00 - 02:00. PXW
Setka Bar Polski Ludowej A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wiel-
kiego 50a, tel. (+48) 71 715 60 60, www.setkabar.
pl. For those who miss the Communist system in Poland
and those who simply missed it altogether, Setka has
arrived. Setka (the Polish name for a 100ml glass of hard
alcohol) recreates the spartan simplicity of a Communist
bar or diner. However, instead of just a dreary room of
empty shelves, gray walls, and unsmiling patrons, youll
find a veritable homage to all things Communist. The
time-warp motif covers most of the 20-foot high walls as
well as the bar, tables and decorations. Even the menu - a
huge billboard-like sign looming above the bar - is a typi-
cally large, imposing and inflexible tribute to Communists
days (and offers a grand total of sixteen items, including
all drinks). Theres more ambience than there should be
for a real historical re-enactment, but the low prices and
completely casual dress do an old Communist watering
hole justice. Q Open 24hrs. PAUGSW
U Joina A-2, ul. Malarska 25, tel. (+48) 71 341
20 33. Another of the fashionable Polish eat on the run
type places that have sprung up around the country in
recent years. Do not expect burgers and chips. Do expect
Polish delicacies like herring washed down with a shot
of vodka. Find the ambience of PRL times (the Polish
Peoples Republic) with a sense of the Czech Republic
thrown in. All drinks are priced at 4z, while all dishes are
8z. Q Open 09:00 - 04:00, Fri 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 24hrs,
Sun 00:01 - 04:00, 09:00 - 04:00. AGW
Late Night Eats
56
NIGHTLIFE
57
NIGHTLIFE
Ragtime A-3, Pl. Solny 17, tel. (+48) 71 343 37 01,
www.ragtimecafe.pl. In the years weve been visiting
Ragtime not much has changed, only a few more grey hairs
on the patrons. This is an engaging endeavour that refuses
to follow fashions and as such has a charismatic personality
of its own. Vermillion walls are home to all manner of visual
diversions, from framed pics of jazz gods to a collection of
musical instruments. A wrought iron mezzanine level allows
the opportunity to admire all the clutter and the regular live
jazz nights are not to be missed. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PJAEBXW
Rejs Pub B-3, ul. Kotlarska 32a, tel. (+48) 509 79
67 71. Tiny and unspectacular but nearly always lively and
packed. Decorated with Star Wars posters, film reels and Mr.
Moon smiling from the corner of the ceiling, this dark wooden
pub attracts Goth students looking for animated discussion
to a background of AC/DC tunes. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 01:00. JG
Salvador A-3, Pl. Solny 16 (entrance from ul. Szajno-
chy), tel. (+48) 784 35 73 68, www.salvador.pl. Base-
ment bar just off Pl. Solny featuring dark scarlet corners, low
level seating and wild parties that only conclude after several
students have attempted to pull drunken dance moves on the
tables. Living up to its title theres plenty of Dali associated
weirdness on the walls, with sometimes profane photography
and other random acts of art. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Thu
12:00 - 04:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat 17:00 - 05:00, Sun
17:00 - 03:00. PABXW
Schody Donikd A-3, Pl. Solny 13, tel. (+48) 71 341
84 55, www.schodydonikad.pl. An enormous bohemian
hangout in what must have once been quite an immaculate
private residence. Inheriting the space from Long Play,
Schody Donikd has restored it to a sort of absinthe-infused
grandeur with frilly bell-shaped lampshades laying down
the lowlight, mis-matching antique furnishings you wouldnt
want to spill a drink on, oriental rugs, ornate chandeliers, a
couple of columns and the glorious woodwork of the original
staircase and balustrades; if you like Graciarnia, you may
have a new fave here. With live music nights, a regular
playlist of sophisticated, seldom heard 70s R&B and jazzy
80s hip-hop, Czech Primator on draught and an admirable
cocktail list, this ones a winner out of the gates and highly
recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00.
PAEGBW
Siwy Dym A-5, ul. Bogusawskiego 63, tel. (+48) 606
11 60 92, www.siwydym.com.pl. A wonderfully foggy
pub for those who dont mind drinking underneath a railway
line. Its not exactly a clever concept, and no more than an
assembly of tightly packed tables and chairs, good tunes
and an all-night crowd, but it works effectively and has the
habit of becoming a time trap: enter at daylight, leave in the
middle of the morning with strange phone numbers crumpled
in your pocket. Occasional jazz concerts keep the punters
more high brow than some of the surrounding drinking spots.
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. AGBW
Spi Brewery A-3, Rynek Ratusz 2, tel. (+48) 71
344 72 25, www.spiz.pl. After losing some ground in
the Breslau best beer debate with the opening of Bierhalle,
Spi seems to have picked up the slack by unveiling a few
new brews which combined with their caramel and honey
beers, should be enough to convince your ladyfriend to
give it a go. With seven unpasteurised, unfiltered brews in
total, you should find something to your taste, though beer
enthusiasts are a bit split about the quality. Though the staff
are often engaged in open hostilities with the patrons, a free
on Fashion TV. Plush red seating and cinnamon smells are
enough to entice after-office drinkers to stay on for just one
more while the stack of pizza boxes behind the bar suggest
a menu aimed at between beer moments. Downstairs opens
into a more clubby space, with stainless steel toilets and a
fashionably ironic 80s style. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PJABX
Paparazzi F-4, ul. Rzenicza 32/33, tel. (+48) 71 341
04 85, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Find a hyper cool crowd of
platinum airheads and local hotshots dressed in collars and
cufflinks in one of the best bars in the city. A rectangular bar is
the centerpiece from which black clad hipsters mix cocktails with
fatal precision, though any headache the next day is just as likely
to be the doing of the steel column positioned right outside the
gents; you have been warned. Grand colonnades support the
ceiling, black and white prints of film icons cling to the walls and
sexy music pipes in the distance; this is designer drinking exactly
the way it should be. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00,
Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. PJAUXW
Piwiarnia Warka E-4, ul. Wodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71
341 75 94, www.warka.wroc.pl. Alongside the likes of
Mleczarnia and Sarah, its unlikely youd find one of Wrocaws
true blokes pubs in such company, but there you have it, and
thats what it is, with walls covered in signed footie shirts,
scarves, flags, team pics and other sports tat surrounding no
less than four flatscreens with the match on. As such youll find
a fair number of foreigners mixed in with the shaved heads and
elder staches eating pizza and regularly exclaiming in disbelief. If
anything, its reliable and if you can stomach Warka, even not so
bad. Check their website to see exactly what matches will be on
view. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. AUGW
Pocig A-5, ul. Bogusawskiego 77, tel. (+48) 500 18
81 60. This Bogusawskiego veteran isnt dissimilar from the
areas other winners, following (or inaugurating, perhaps) the
general formula of candlelight, unplayable instruments, rickety
repossessed furnishings and a divey saloon atmosphere aided
by the card table on the ceiling and a few revolvers about in
case you feel the urge to challenge someones honour. Named
Pocig (Train) after the carriages rumbling overhead, the
excellent, eclectic soundtrack jumps from Tom Petty to the
Coasters to Triplets of Belleville without missing a beat as the
crowd of bohemian savants sip Czech Litovel and Holba beers
on draught. Catch that train. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. AG
Pod Papugami A-3, ul. Sukiennice 9a, tel. (+48) 71
343 92 75, www.podpapugami.com.pl. Packed with
wasp-waisted blondes Pod Papugami still manages to rate
as one of the top drinkeries in town. Squeeze among the local
stars to knock down complicated cocktails amid film reels,
projectors and vintage movie memorabilia. Live music most
nights, and the performances are usually very good indeed.
QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Mon 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 02:00,
Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JAEGBW
Pod Zielonym Kogutem A- 4, Pl. Teatralny 8, tel.
(+48) 71 342 01 87, www.megaparty.pl. A bit difficult to
describe, this one, but highly likable and easily the best bar in
the vicinity of the Opera House. A large, high-ceilinged room,
Under the Green Rooster is designed to look like its outside
with faux-windows set high in the walls as diners and drinkers
enjoy draught Murphys and cheap pizzas under unnecessary
parasols and streetlamps. Cluttered with a vast collection
of antique knick-knacks (and that conspicuous cock over
the bar), an easy pub atmosphere is effected; so easy it
would seem, that the service excuses itself for disappear-
ing routinely. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri 16:00 - 02:00, Sat
16:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PABXW
After holding out to be one of the few remaining EU
countries with no or very few prohibitions on smoking, a
new law brought in on the 15th November 2010 aimed to
limit the activities of smokers in public places.
Smoking is now completely banned on public transport in-
cluding taxis, trains, company cars, public transport stops,
childrens playgrounds, schools, universities, workplaces,
sports arenas and other places where the public gather.
Owners are obliged to clearly place a clear and visible No
Smoking sign and anyone caught smoking by either the
police or local city guard is subject to a 500zl fine.
There are, however, exceptions. It is possible to smoke
in some bars, clubs, restaurants and other public places.
The law states that there can be a SEPARATE ROOM
created for smokers as long as it is properly ventilated
and closed off from the other public areas (originally this
was only going to be permitted in premises over 100m
2
,
but that doesnt seem to have been included). As many
places listed in this guide are simply too small to allow
for a separate room, this has automatically made them
subject to the ban. To help you to find or avoid places
which will continue to allow smoking on the premises we
have used the following symbols throughout the guide
G This place has a complete ban on smoking on the
premises
X This place has a smoking section on the premises
Having now had some time to gauge reaction it appears
that owners have followed one of three courses of action.
Firstly they have through choice or necessity obeyed the
law and the whole premises are now non-smoking. A
second group, generally those with bigger premises, have
exercised their right to build a smoking room. The third
group have examined the wording of the law and then driven
an articulated lorry through the holes left by incompetent
legislators. We have seen examples of entire bars allowing
smoking by making the vast majority of the place smoking
with a small area in the front, back or downstairs, set aside
for non-smokers. We have even seen an example of two
restaurants joining together and claiming the smoking area
is in one restaurant while the non-smoking area is in the
one next door. And were not sure if some of the bars and
clubs in Kazimierz are even aware that there is a new law
at all. The looseness of the wording of the new law and
the apparent inability or will to police it suggest that while
it will certainly reduce smoking in many public places, it will
still allow it to continue in a lot of others. Choose carefully.
Smoking
58
NIGHTLIFE
59
NIGHTLIFE
modern lighting and an array of deep sofas. There are few
surprises found hidden in the DJs bag with a safe choice of
club house tunes and the occasional disco anthem played
to a fervent crowd of Miss Polska six footers. QOpen 18:00
- 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PAUGW
Bohema A-3, ul. Ofiar Owicimskich 15, tel. (+48)
660 78 73 17, www.bohemabar.pl. A more than
welcome respite from either the icy winter air or sticky
summer heat, Bohema is deep down in a basement. Look-
ing somewhere between an indie club and a low market
boudoir, there are sticky floors and rock n roll posters
(Oasis, Foo Fighters), plus ruby red lampshades and a
disgusting latex sofa (in the intimate back room). The
cocktail menu features notable risqu delights such as the
blow job and wcieka suka (angry bitch). Mildly vulgar
yet awesome, youll probably find it lively and bouncing to
alternative beats from Thursday through Saturday. QOpen
17:00 - 01:00, Tue, Wed 17:00 - 02:30, Thu 17:00 - 03:00,
Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. PAG
Cherry Club B-3, ul. Kunicza 10, tel. (+48) 501 55
52 02, www.cherryclub.com.pl. Housed in what was Le-
moniada, the dcor seems to have changed little though this
still looks like one of the top addresses in town. Get past the
door police to find one of the smartest looking joints in town
with a young crowd determined to have fun. Decent sounds
and a well-stocked bar make this a popular venue meaning
dressing up a little is not only worthwhile but necessary.
QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Sun. PAUXW
Daytona B-3, Rynek 35-37, tel. (+48) 510 09 98 00,
www.daytona.pl. Customers are subjected to a vigorous
frisking at the door, which comes as no surprise considering
the meatheads who gather here to swear at each other and
leer at tarts. Daytona is a metallic nightmare with unadven-
turous club sounds and a continual scrum round the bar.
QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. PAXW
Eter Club A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19, tel. (+48)
71 722 71 00, www.eterclub.pl. Eter (Ether in English)
hits the right notes on a number of levels. Not only does it
have some of the best events in town, it packs out for what
the locals consider some of the best concerts around and
on top of that there seems to be something going on every
week. Its also big. Spread over 2 levels with 5 bars, chill
out upstairs on one of the sofas before heading downstairs
into the carnage on the dancefloor where youll find a great
crowd determined to take full advantage of the weekend.
Keep an eye on our website for full event listings in English.
QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.
PAUEXW
Gumowa Ra (Rubber Rose) F- 4, ul. Wita Stwo-
sza 32, tel. (+48) 500 07 77 88, www.gumowa-roza.
prv.pl. Opened by famous l ocal folk and blues singer
Martyna Jakubowicz, the Rubber Rose is a great place
for catchi ng al ternati ve l ocal li ve acts i n an i nti mate,
literally and figuratively underground environment. With
a bit of artistic flair no doubt rubbing off from the BWA
Awangarda gallery around the corner, Gumowa has gone
kooky with a mix of parrots, flowers and stick-thin students
enjoying dirt cheap beer superimposed over the sofas
and tables of the interior. The upstairs garden is tough
to beat in summer and the live acts are almost daily, so
check their website to see whats on tap. A steer clear of
tourist territory, this is as authentic as they come. QOpen
14:00 - 02:00, Fri 14:00 - 04:00, Sat 15:00 - 04:00, Sun
15:00 - 01:00. EG
Wagon Club E- 4, Pl. Orlt Lwowskich 20a, tel.
(+48) 502 04 14 80, www.wagonclub.com. Hidden
behind what seems to be an abandoned train station,
go lurking and l ook what youve found: an obscure and
bizarre (seasonal) beer garden where ol d rolling stock
has been turned into tabl es and seating, and a cast of
eclectic, clued-in characters enj oy one of the ci tys finest
beer sel ections. Cheaper than chips, the rank of strong
Czech and Sl ovakian mi crobrews may have you slinking
around the dereli ct premises l onger than anti cipated.
A recommissioned train carriage of fers a cagey, claus-
trophobi c indoor retreat, whil e on weekends the nearby
station cellar hosts one of Wrocaws best al ternati ve
cl ubs. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00.
EBXW
Clubs
Alive E-5, ul. Kolejowa 12, tel. (+48) 514 25 13 35,
www.alive.wroclaw.pl. One of Wrocaws primary live
venues, nightl y acts range from punk and hardcore to
alternative rock, with roots reggae and regular jam ses-
sions in between. Full of bottles, beer ads, band photos
and the local leather brethren all crammed into two vaulted
rooms under the train tressle across from Zieliski Market,
Alive is as intimate and authentic as they come, and with
many of the gigs free, its worth a try on an otherwise
aimless night. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Thu 11:00 - 03:00,
Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00.
PEGBW
Antidotum F-4, ul. Kiebanicza 32, tel. (+48) 603 03
94 31, www.antidotum.wroc.pl. Set inside a network of
underground tunnels, Antidotum looks great with a design
thats kept to scrubbed stone walls, stripped wood floors,
Przejcie
Garncarskie 2
+48 71 341 13 91
piqsell.com
table under the summer beer tent is still a rarity, while an
Oktoberfest atmosphere prevails in the dark cellars of the
Town Hall where pub DJs play sing-along hits for the benefit
of German pensioners. Though yesterdays news, Spi is
still considered a must-visit by locals and remains perhaps
Wrocaws most recognisable bar. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00,
Mon, Sun 10:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 02:00.
PJAXW
Strefa Zero (Ground Zero) E- 4, ul. Ruska 47a,
tel. (+48) 667 69 80 08. One courtyard removed from
the well-traversed Pasa Niepolda youll find a few more
dens of debauchery, including this gem. Strefa Zero is the
ultimate alternative (literally underground) dive bar filled
with dreadlocks, leather jackets, students, bartenders with
wet tattoos, old heads and howling women holding each
other up/embracing around a no liquor left behind policy.
The grey brick and cinderblock walls have been completely
covered in collage, graffiti and chaotic mural art with furnish-
ings as dark as the unhinged atmosphere. The music is a
mix of just about everything, except, thankfully, dreaded
hip-hop. Catch it while you can as there are rumours that
it may close in February. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
18:00 - 04:00. EG
Szuflada (The Drawer) B-3, ul. widnicka 13, tel.
(+48) 71 341 84 63, www.klubszuflada.pl. Find Szu-
flada by keeping a look out for the metal coat attached to
a doorway next to KFC. This is a long, narrow pub/club with
bewildering 80s noise and a small stage set aside for dance
moves. Although largely non-descript its as popular as ever
with a crowd that ranges from teen pigs wobbling around in
heels to candidates for Miss Poland, and a night here usually
induces the onset of amnesia. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri
12:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PABXW
Reservation 501 555 202
ul. Kunicza 10
open 21.00 - 5.00
www.cherryclub.com.pl
60
NIGHTLIFE
61
NIGHTLIFE
Jazzda B-3, Rynek 60, tel. (+48) 71 346 08 25, www.
jazzda.pl. Come here for a taste of Saturday Night Fever.
A tiny dance floor that lights up to resemble a chessboard
packs out at the weekends, while spinning disco lights and
mirror balls complete the Austin Powers feel. QOpen 09:00
- 02:00, Wed, Thu 09:00 - 04:00, Fri 09:00 - 06:00, Sat
10:30 - 06:00, Sun 10:30 - 02:00. PAGBW
Kalambur B-3, ul. Kunicza 29a, tel. (+48) 71 372
35 71 wew 32, www.kalambur.org. An artsy bohemian
headquarters by day, this tiny Seccessionist space be-
comes one of the sloppiest, most unhinged student clubs
in Wrocaw on weekend nights, with the party going on
until dawn oclock. As drunken revellers bump into the DJ
booth, the masses writhe to skipping recordings of every-
thing from classic MJ to the Doors to Goran Bregovic. So
chock-a-block with shimmying students and hipsters that
dancers obstruct the door, so start testing your moves on
the approach cause youre going right into the frying pan,
friend. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun
16:00 - 02:00. PUEXW
Klub i Kawiarnia Puzzle B-3, Przejcie Garncarskie
2, tel. (+48) 71 341 13 91. Intimate concerts, literary
evenings and poetry readings are among the exci ting
cultural happenings regularly on the program for this new
venue in the heart of Wroclaw. Looking like a cross between
a theatre and recording studio, Puzzle has sound-padded
walls, a black ceiling, low studio lights and gives jigsaw
pieces as cloakroom tokens, appropriately. At weekends
and on special occasions the setting hosts DJs and cool
parties. In terms of music, those who like anything remotely
indie or alternative will be thoroughly satisfied. Located on
the first floor, within the buildings that make up the old town
hall (Ratusz). QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
04:00. PAUEGW
Klub Na Jatkach A-3, ul. w. Elbiety 3/4, tel. (+48)
71 797 66 11, www.najatkach.pl. Split into two sections:
the one on the left is where youll find DJs spinning experimen-
tal tunes to a crowd of slackers with record bags slung over
their shoulders. On the opposite end of the building find a
bar area with paintings hanging from chains and lighting kept
to a bare minimum. Moody, atmospheric and highly recom-
mended. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Mon, Sun 17:00 - 24:00, Thu
17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. JAUEBXW
Madness G-6, ul. Hubska 6, tel. (+48) 501 93 40
68, www.madness.wroclaw.pl. Everything from Ska
and reggae to heavy metal nights inside a dark, sweaty
space that packs out with hundreds of wear-what-you-like
student types. A simple interior featuring murals of palms
and Jamaican flags gives Madness the atmosphere of a
British inner-city community centre, and the party has been
known to go on until dawn. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
18:00 - 03:00. EGB
Maana Cafe E-4, ul. w. Mikoaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71
343 43 70, www.manana-cafe.pl. Reckoned by many to
be the best night out in Wrocaw, Maana is certainly reliable
for a raucous weeknight rave-up and well-loved by all those
who live for long nights. Dont let the lack of a proper dance-
floor prevent you from doing your Travolta - spontaneous
outbreaks of Saturday Night Fever are rife and encouraged.
The scruffy furnishings, red lighting and cheeky photos on the
wall exemplify the balance between sexiness and silliness
embodied by the randy retro-chic clientele, and Manianas
down-to-earth attitude and funky playlist of favourites from
the last 50 years make it one of the most appealing places
in the city to squander your brain cells. With the addition of a
VIP room and the opening of the large summer terrace theres
now even more space to investigate the lineup of Wrocaws
lookers.QOpen 17:00 - 04:00, Thu 17:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat
17:00 - 07:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. PAGB
Melan E-4, ul. Ruska 51 (Pasa Niepolda), tel. (+48)
605 20 80 38, www.melanz.wroclaw.pl. We were a little
unkind Melan last time out, for this place has improved in
leaps and bounds of late, and while it remains less than
cutting-edge when it comes to music, there are far, far
worse places to spend a lively Friday night in this city. In
fact, given the utter unpretentiousness of the place and the
DJs tendency to play classic hits we found ourselves here
two nights in a row. A young crowd did make us feel a little
old but that says more about us than Melan. Enjoy. QOpen
19:00 - 05:00. PGW
Metropolis F-4, ul. Ruska 51 (Pasa Niepolda), tel.
(+48) 71 722 50 07, www.metropolis.wroc.pl. A levia-
than three-floor complex with a booming sound system and
serious bouncers who take no prisoners - dont even try
larking around with them. The vaguely menacing industrial
interior regularly packs out with clubbers hell bent on hedo-
nism, who by the looks of it, have just gotten back from the
Happy Shop. Metropolis is often the scene of tribute nights
- everything from Depeche Mode to Madonna, so keep an
eye peeled for the flyers plastered all over town to get the
latest. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Thu 20:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat
20:00 - 06:00. PUEBXW
Obsesja A-3, ul. w. Mikoaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 341
84 25, www.klubobsesja.com. A corking venue with in-
dustrial gray walls offset by a no-expense-spared dcor that
includes safari print sofas, curtained off boudoirs and glowing
glass blocks. It looks great, but not half as fetching as the
nymphs who swerve and slink under the glittery disco balls.
The DJs like interspersing house with disco, and the results
are often absolutely riotous as chiseled lads attempt dick-
ish dance turns. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Thu 17:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PAEXW
Pasja A-5, ul. widnicka 53, tel. (+48) 609 20 91 60,
www.pasjaclub.pl. One of the hottest addresses in town,
complete with a whirring disco ball and a voluptuous interior
of Doric columns and vanilla seating. The impeccable crowd
consists of vampy girls and lads on the verge of making their
fortune practicing snake hip dance moves to the house
sounds that thump from an excellent sound system. QOpen
21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PAXW
Plan B E-4, ul. Ruska 51 (Pasa Niepolda), tel. (+48)
530 84 80 24. Hidden in a discreet corner of Pasa Niepolda
next to Bezsenno, sure you can make this your B plan when
the pick-up lines prove too predictable to the sophisticated
sirens next door. A refit earlier this year has made the place
far more welcoming than before, and quite frankly we see
no reason why it shouldnt be your Plan A for a top night
out. Some Sundays they organise concerts here featuring
a variety of acts. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PG
Ra Bar Bar (Rhubarb) B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 3, tel.
(+48) 788 06 51 62. This subterranean club/lounge
favoured by dudes with squeaky white sneakers and glam
girls with gold handbags has smoothed over the bricks and
drop-ceilinged the vaults to create an unspecific far east
atmosphere filled with lotus-like patterns, blue and pink lights
and a mix of classic disco, pop with accent on the 1980s and
90s. Jiggling happens on a recessed dancefloor while the lazy
look on from low-slung couches. Two bars so you do not have
to wait too long for a drink. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. PAG
ul. w. Mikoaja 8-11 Wrocaw
tel. 71 34 34 370
www.manana-cafe.pl
kontakt@manana-cafe.pl
Eter Club
ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19
+48 797 339 668
www.eterclub.pl
62
63
the demise of the Holy Roman Empire, Breslau capitulated to
Napoleons army in 1807; led by King Frederick III of Prussia
who lived in Breslau the city was the centre of the liberation
movement against Napoleonic rule. The tearing down of
Breslaus defensive fortifications by the French allowed the
city to begin expanding and state reforms helped it prosper
in the 19th century as it grew into a major administrative,
ecclesiastical, military, industrial and science centre. Over
the course of the century the population increased 8-fold
(including the third largest Jewish population in Germany)
and Breslau grew into the second largest city in Prussia;
when the German Empire was consolidated in 1871, Breslau
entered as the third largest city after Berlin and Hamburg. The
construction of the Centennial Hall (see Sightseeing) in 1913
perhaps best represents the ambition and achievement of
this part of the citys history.
By being behind the frontlines of WWI, Breslau avoided
damage and was even able to recover quickly from the
economic impoverishment that came with the end of the
conflict. In 1930 i t was chosen to host the Deutsche
Kampfspiel e a showcase of German athl etics after
Germany was banned from the Olympic Games. The Nazi
Party developed one of its largest support bases in Breslau,
which played a large role in voting them to power in 1933.
In 1938 state-organised persecution against the cities
minorities, particularly Poles and Jews, began in earnest
and those who did not escape were killed or sent to the
network of concentration and forced labour camps set up
around Breslau, where many would die later. Safely removed
from the frontlines of WWII, Breslau became a haven for
refugees and its population swelled to close to one million.
In August 1944, with the Soviet Army approaching, the city
was declared Festung Breslau a closed fortress to be
held at all costs. When Nazi Commander Karl Hanke lifted
a ban on the evacuation of civilians in January 1945 it was
too late: railway connections had been destroyed or were
overcrowded and tens of thousands froze to death in minus
20 degree ice storms. Some 200,000 civilians remained
in the city as the Soviet siege began in February; the Siege
of Breslau lasted 82 days before capitulation occurred on
May 6th, 1945. It was one of the last German cities to fall,
outlasting Berlin by four days and the war in Europe officially
ended only two days after Breslaus defeat. 50% of the Old
Town was in ruin and the western and southern suburbs were
90% obliterated. Tens of thousands had died defending it.
Under the terms of the Potsdam Conference, Lower Silesia
passed to Poland and its largest city became known as
Wrocaw. Pol es began arri ving immediatel y as forced
deportations from Eastern Polish lands annexed by the
Soviet Union and the forced expulsion of Wrocaws German
population took place simultaneously, leading to a huge
influx of Eastern Poles into Wrocaw, particularly from Lww;
Polish cultural treasures from Lww came with them including
the Fredo monument on the market square, the Racawice
Panorama painting and the collection of the Ossolineum
library (see Sightseeing). A long period of reconstruction
fol l owed, characteri sed equal l y by pol oni sati on and
degermanisation; all German monuments and inscriptions
were removed and Wrocaws non-Jewish cemeteries were
destroyed. At the same time sovietisation was also beginning:
businesses were nationalised, Polish political and religious
leaders were imprisoned and following rigged elections the
full communist takeover of Poland was complete by 1948.
The Communist authorities took full credit for restoring Lower
Silesia and boasted of their success rebuilding the city and
incorporating it into the Soviet system; this was typified by
Wrocaws hosting of the propaganda parade known as the
Recovered Territories Exhibition in 1948.
990: Piast Duke Mieszko I seizes Silesia, incorporating
it into Poland
1000: A bishopric is established on Ostrw Tumski
1163: The city becomes capital of the Duchy of Silesia
1241: Mongols devastate the city, the market square is laid
out, Germans become the dominant ethnic group
1335: Sil esia is incorporated into the Kingdom of
Bohemia
1418: The citys guilds revol t, beheading the major and
six members of city council
1453: John of Capistrano l eads inquisi tion against
Jewish population who are executed or forced to
convert to Christianity
1526: The Austri an Habsburg dynast y absorbs
Bohemia, including Silesia
1702: Founding of the Jesuit Academy, todays Wrocaw
University
1741: Breslau becomes part of Prussia
1807: Napoleon captures the ci ty and i ts medieval
defences are destroyed
1871: Unification of the German Empire; Breslau enters
as its third most prominent city
1913: The Centennial Hall (Hala Stulecia) is buil t
1933: The Nazis comes to power in Germany
1938: Kristallnacht Jewish synagogues torched,
homes looted and burned
1944: Festung Breslau the city is declared a closed
fortress and prepares for Soviet bombardment
1945: Breslau capitulates on May 6th, WWII ends and
Lower Silesia becomes part of Poland
1947: Communists consolidate power after ri gged
elections
1948: Wrocaw hosts the Recovered Territories Exhibition
1980: The solidarity Trade Union initiates strikes across
Poland
1983: Martial Law lifted
1989: First free post-war elections in PL
1997: The Odra and Oawa rivers overflow flooding a
third of downtown Wrocaw
1999: Poland joins NATO
2004: Poland joins the EU
2010: President Lech Kaczyski and 95 other Polish
delegates die in a plane crash near Smolensk,
Russia
Wrocaw Historical Timeline
HISTORY
By the late 1950s Wrocaw had returned to its former
population level and established itself as one of Polands
main urban, economic, cultural and academic centres despite
being hamstrung by the political and economic conditions of
the Peoples Republic of Poland. In August of 1980, Wrocaws
workers joined the general strike called by Gdasks Solidarity
Trade Union led by Lech Wasa. Martial law went into effect
from1981 to 1983, and Wrocaw remained a centre of anti-
communist opposition throughout the 80s until communism
crumbled in 1989 and Wasa became Polands first freely
elected president since WWII. In 1990, Wrocaws first post-
communist city council restored the citys historical coat of
arms, symbolising the citys acceptance of its entire history
(even the German bits). In July 1997 the city sustained the
worst flooding in post-war Central Europe when the Oder
River overflowed its banks leaving one third of the city
under water. Poland joined the European Union in 2004 and
Wrocaw has emerged as one of the countrys leading cities,
attracting significant foreign investment. The city is will host
matches during the 2012 European Football Championships
and is a candidate to be European Capital of Culture in 2016.
Wrocaw has always been
the domi nant capi tal of
Si l esi a, a regi on whose
st or y begi ns wi t h t he
e s t a b l i s h me n t o f a
stronghold along the Amber
Road and Via Regia trading
routes on what i s today
Ostrw Tumski (C/D-2) by
the Sl avi c Sl eza tri be i n
the 8th century. Absorbed
into Czech Bohemia, the
expanding fortress was first
recorded in the 10th century
under the name Vratislavia, thought to be derived from the
name of the Bohemian duke Vratislav I. In 990, however, the
Piast duke Mieszko I conquered the region and in 1000 Polish
king Bolesaw I established Silesias first bishopric, building
a cathedral on the site of todays Cathedral of St. John the
Baptist (D-2). By the same year the city had expanded to 1,000
inhabitants, becoming a religious and commercial centre that
reached the left bank of the Odra River.
Over the next century, religious and political conflict saw
the region pass back forth between Poland and Bohemia
numerous times, before finding some stability under the
Silesian Piast dynasty who ruled the area during the so-
called Age of Fragmentation (1138-1320) when Poland
was divided into autonomous principalities. A Mongol raid in
1241 devastated the city, but it was rebuilt under Magdeburg
Law with city planners expanding it to incorporate many of
the outlying settlements, shifting the city centre away from
Ostrw Tumski (which became the citys religious centre) to
the other side of the river, building a moat and defensive walls
around it, and laying out the market square as it appears
to this day. Settlers flocked to the city, and ethnic Germans
soon became the most dominant demographic.
The Piast line petered out in 1335 when Duke Henryk VI died
without an heir and earlier treaties dictated the transfer of the
region to Bohemian rule once again. Under the Luxemburg
dynasty the city generally prospered, but the dominance of the
merchant class, which controlled the Town Council, lead to strife
with the church and lower classes resulting in outright revolt in
1418 when guildsmen stormed the Town Hall and beheaded
the major. Printing with movable type begins in 1475, with many
variations of the citys name appearing, including Wretslav,
Wratislav, Prezzla, Presslay and Bresslau. By 1526 - when
Bohemian King Louis Jagiellons death ended prolonged fighting
over Bohemian succession and transferred the city to the
Austrian Habsburg dynasty - the Reformation had reached the
Silesian capital and Protestantism had become the dominant
religion. During the Thirty Years War (1618-48), the city fought
to maintain its Protestantism, and though occupied, eluded
physical destruction, emerging from the conflict as one of the
only Silesian cities to remain Protestant under Habsburg rule.
However plague and war had taken their toll on the population,
cutting it in half. During the Counter-reformation, many Catholic
orders were encouraged by the emperor to settle in Silesias
capital, including the Jesuits who founded the Wrocaw Jesuit
Academy in 1702, which would later grow into todays Wrocaw
University.
During the War of Austrian Succession, the Kingdom of Prussia
laid claim to much of Silesia and Prussian troops entered
what was then known as Breslau without a conflict in 1741.
Though heavily taxed and having lost the self-rule the city had
enjoyed since the Middle Ages, Protestants could now express
their faith freely in the new kingdom and Prussian authorities
allowed for the establishment of a Jewish community. After
HISTORY
As a city under constantly shifting rule, Wrocaw has
been known by many names throughout its history. In
fact, the national status of Wrocaw has changed more
often than any other city in Europe. Passing hands
from the Polish Piasts (1000-1335), to the Kingdom
of Bohemia (1335-1526), to the Austrian Hapsburgs
(1526-1741), to the Kingdom of Prussia(1741-1871),
into the German Empire and Third Reich (1871-1945),
and finally back to Poland (1945-today and hopefully
tomorrow as well), Wrocaw cannot be claimed as the
by-rights homeland of any one nation or people despite
the past efforts of politically motivated revisionist his-
torians to prove otherwise (the Recvoered Territories
Exhibition of 1948). The citys makeup has always been
diverse culturally and religiously with Poles, Germans,
Bohemians, Austrians and Jews all making significant
contributions to Wrocaws development. With so many
influences and upheavals, Wrocaw (as we know it today)
has seen more than its fair share of names used in com-
mon parlance throughout the years, including Vratislava,
Wrotizla, Wretslaw, Vraclav, Vretslav, Prezlav, Presslaw
and Bresslau (to name a few).
On a stroll about the Old Town you will still sometimes
see and hear Wrocaw being referred to under its old
German name, Breslau, particularly by and for the
large number of German nostalgia tourists who come
here to seek their roots. The Polish name Wrocaw
actually predates the German name, and is thought
to have been derived from the name of the Czech
sovereign Vratislav. Variants of the German name
began appearing in documents shortly after Poland
lost control of the region in 1335. Some sources claim
that Frederick the Great changed the citys name to
Breslau in 1741, though this is subject to historical
dispute. With the German population expelled in 1945,
and Polands borders shi fted westwards, post-war
Wrocaw was repopulated with citizens from what is
now the Ukrainian city of Lviv (formerly Polish Lww).
The tens of thousands of migrants who arrived from
the east not only changed the ethnic make-up of the
city, but also its cultural life by bringing much of their
former homes cultural relics with them. Treasures
taken from Lviv and moved to Wrocaw include the
Fredro statue in the main square, the library collection
of the Ossolineum, and the epic painting the Racawice
Panorama.
The problem of Wrocaws complex titular nomen-
clature was a challenge historian Norman Davies
encountered when writing his thorough history of
the city; Davies eventually settled on Microcosm as
the title of his excellent book in acknowledgement of
citys standing as a constant crossroads for Eastern
European cultures and concerns, and the unfairness
of putting such a wide-ranging study under a title with
a limited representation of its history. And while the
temptation to re-title this little tome Microcosm In Your
Pocket is ever-present, weve got enough connotative
problems as it is
So Where Exactly Am I?
64
65
WHAT TO SEE
Churches
Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (Katedra w.
Jana Chrzciciela) D-2, Pl. Katedralny 18, tel. (+48) 71
322 25 74, www.katedra.archidiecezja.wroc.pl. Like all
of Wrocaws churches, the Cathedral remains a living, working
church. As a visitor you will undoubtedly encounter queues
of people waiting patiently for the confessionals and others
in quiet worship. The elegant double-spired Gothic building
stands like a sentinal at the end of ulica Katedralna, its
elaborate portal one of the most valuable medieval artefacts in
Wrocaw. This is the fourth church to be built on this site. When
construction began in 1244, this was the first brick building in
Poland. Cathedral-building being what it is, work continued for
five more centuries. The centrepiece of the rich, Gothic interior
is the altarpiece, painted in Lublin in 1522, showing the Virgin
Mary falling asleep. The Cathedral suffered massive damage
in WWII, with traces of bullet holes still visible, and has been
meticulously rebuilt since. Of interest, to some at least, the
cathedral houses the largest organ in Poland, which prior to the
war was also the largest in the world. But the real highlight of
the Cathedral is the panoramic view from its tower. An elevator
takes you to the top of the Cathedrals tower, which offers a
wonderful view of the city and surrounding countryside. Theres
also a small exhibition at the top of the tower featuring various
objects brought back from missions. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00,
Sun 14:00 - 16:00. No visiting during mass please.
St. Adalberts Church (Koci w. Wojciecha)
C-3, Pl. Dominikaski 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 66 31, www.
wroclaw.dominikanie.pl. This heavy, imposing church on Plac
Dominikaski is the oldest church on the left bank of the Odra
River. It was founded in 1112 for the Augustinians and later hand-
ed over to the Dominicans. It was destroyed in the 1241 Tartar
invasion and then again in the 1945 siege of Wrocaw. Q Open
05:45-19:30, Sun 07:00-22:00. No visiting during mass please.
St. Elizabeths Church (Koci w. Elbiety) A-3, ul.
w. Elbiety 1/1, tel. (+48) 71 343 16 38, www.kosciolgar-
nizon.wroclaw.pl. Among the oldest churches in Wrocaw and
the tallest buildings in Old Town, St. Elizabeths is unmistakable.
A church has stood on this site since the 12th century, but the
current Gothic structure dates to the 14th and 15th centuries.
This is not the luckiest church in the world: it was destroyed in
1529 by heavy hail, suffered severe damage in WWII and then
was the victim of a mysterious fire in 1976. Today the church
serves as a military garrison church. Inside youll find impressive
Gothic and Renaissance altars and over 100 tombs of prominent
citizens. The 91m tower (the original tower was 128m) is open to
able-bodied visitors. We lost count after about 200 steps, mostly
due to the lack of oxygen in the narrow, twisting stairwell, though
one reader has written to assure that the tower has 300 steps in
all. The view from the top is more than worth the arduous journey
and 5z. Open daily, visitors should ask to be let in at the vestry.
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00.
Adalbertus , tel. (+48) 695 65 08 04, www.adal-
bertus.eu. Tours available of Wroclaw, Lower Silesia and
neighbouring Prague and Czech Republic from a guide
who speaks English, Polish and Czech.
Exploring Events , tel. (+48) 694 60 08 62, www.
exploring.pl. A creative alternative to traditional sight-
seeing, with Exploring Wrocaw the guide is replaced by a
group of professional actors, special maps and specific
tasks. Combining live action role playing, problem solving,
orienteering and adventure, players in this interactive
urban game see and experience the city in a different
way, meeting strange characters and learning Wrocaws
history and legends along the way. Check the website
for more info on their range of group offers and call in
advance to negotiate the terms.
Passenger Navigation (egluga Pasaerska)
C-2, Przysta Kardynalska, Bulwar Wostowica
(Wyspa Piasek), tel. (+48) 609 20 08 67, www.
statekpasazerski.pl. Panoramic Odra River cruises.
See Leisure section for more. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
PTTK B-3, Rynek - Ratusz 11/12, tel. (+48) 71
343 83 31, www.pttk.wroclaw.pl. Tours of Wrocaw,
Lower Silesia, Auschwitz, Wieliczka and more (even be-
yond Polands borders, in Berlin, Prague and Dresden),
specialising in group bus tours. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. Reserve one week in advance. Tours
in English 320z.
Wratislavia Tour , tel. (+48) 793 15 43 30,
www.wratislaviatour.com. Gui ded wal ki ng tours
of all the main sights of the Old Town, or see even
more of the city by being chauffeured around it in an
electronic car. Tours around Silesia and to Krakw and
Auschwitz also available. Q Reserve in advance. Tours
in English, 300z.
Wrocaw City Tours , tel. (+48) 513 946 946,
www.wroclawcitytour.pl. Look no further. With over
30 di fferent tours of Wrocaw and Silesia available,
these folks can arrange carriage rides, golf cart tours,
river cruises, whatever you want. Tours available in
English, German and Polish starting at 260z. Call one
day in advance.
Wrocaw Sightseeing Tours ul. Wita Stwosza
3, tel. (+48) 698 90 01 23, www.wroclawsight-
seeingtours.com. Offering a range of organised tours
in languages including English, German and Spanish
covering Wrocaws city centre, Lower Silesia, Secrets of
WWII, Auschwitz, Krakw and Wieliczka. They also now
offer what we think is the first Great Escape Tour to the
legendary POW camp at aga. You can also purchase
and download their mp3 Wrocaw walking tour from the
website. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Wrocaw - Silesia Tours , tel. (+48) 509 96 00
34, www.wroclawsilesiatours.pl. Demonstrating
Wrocaws diversity with themed tours that trace the
citys different cultures and religions, Wroclaw Silesia
Tours offer tours around the city in golf cars as well as
to places a bit further afield such as Ksi or widnica.
Tours available in English, German, Spanish and Por-
tuguese. Call one day in advance to negotiate prices.
Guided Tours
you should head for neighbouring Plac Solny (A-3), known
as the Flower Market and always a bright sight thanks to
the scores of flower sellers who are on call here twenty-four
hours a day in the event of matrimonial emergency, ready
to meet the requirements of empty-fisted Romeos - such is
the importance of flower-giving in Polish society.
From Plac Solny you are only a short walk from St. Elizabeths
Church (A-3, ul. w. Elbiety), the citys tallest. Stunning views
of the city can be had at the top, but be warned that the climb
can be crippling for those who havent seen a stairmaster for
some time. Head next to the stunning University (B-2, Plac
Uniwersytecki), whose interiors are quite frankly far too plush
for grotty students; dont miss the university church (yes, even
the university has a church), Aula Leopoldina - the grand
Baroque ceremonial hall, or the panoramic city views from the
Mathematical Tower. Before heading over to Ostrw Tumski,
pop into Wrocaws proper marketplace Hala Targowa (C-2, on
the corner of Piaskowa and w. Ducha). Here you can pick-up
fresh produce and sandwich fixings for a riverside picnic, buy
bargain bric-a-brac and satisfy whatever obscure shopping
needs you have while getting a colourful look at locals living
their colourful lives. And, of course, tasty, dirt cheap pierogi
(what, your radars not going off?)
Crossing the river now, Ostrw Tumski (C/D-2) is packed
with religious sights and historic significance. First settled
in the 8th century with the first bishopric in 1000, this was
originally the centre of Wrocaw before 1240 when the Tar-
tars razed the place and the city began redeveloping on the
other side of the river where, quite frankly, there was more
room. After that Ostw Tumski became an exclusively royal
and religious sanctuary, a role which it has almost inconciev-
ably maintained to this day. Largely devoid of shops, cafes
and bars, etc, Ostrw Tumski has an ethereal feel that takes
you miles away from the pace of life found throughout the rest
of the city. Ideal for a romantic stroll, here youll find cobbled
lanes, original gas lamps and lots of riverside greenery.
Oh, and the churches: top of your list should be St. Johns
Cathedral (D-2, Pl. Katedralny), famous for its stunning
stained glass windows and for its 16th century altarpiece.
To the right of the Cathedrals main portal is the Archbishops
Palace, now the Archdiocese Museum (the Archbishop
lives elsewhere these days). Not to be missed either is the
Church of the Holy Cross, a rare two-level church with two
separate parishes. For those looking for a sanctuary thats
not full of cadavers on crosses, head north to the citys Bo-
tanical Gardens (D-2) - one of the finest, most pictureseque,
and sadly overlooked, places for spending time in Wrocaw.
Back over the river, locals will not forgive you for missing out
on the Racawice Panorama (C-3), especially after all the
trouble Poland took to get it on display for you. A 140m-long
canvas depicting Kociuszkos legendary (and short-lived)
victory over the Russians in 1794, this is one of the only
remaining panoramic paintings in the world - a genre that
was actually quite popular in the 19th century. Of the citys
museums we would class the restored Royal Palace (A-3,
ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 35) as the most essential, with the
National (D-3, pl. Powstacw Warszawy 5)and Architec-
ture Museums (C-3, ul. Bernardyska 5) more than worthy
of a rainy day also.
With the addition of the dazzling new Wrocaw Fountain, a
tram ride west of the centre to the Hala Stulecia exhibition and
park complex (I-4) is now also a required ramble. In addition to
the UNESCO-listed Hala and Iglica monument, here youll also
find the Zoo and Japanese Garden near Szczynicki Park. But
the real gem is the citys new fountain which during short-sleeve
season puts on an incredible display of water, light and sound
every hour, on the hour - somehow even more exciting than the
reinforced concrete monolith next to it. Finally, no visitor should
leave Wrocaw without having hunted down a few of the citys
infamous and elusive gnomes. Enjoy Wrocaw.
ESSENTIAL WROCAW
Theres no shortage of things to see and do in Wrocaw, and
our tried and true, preferred method of discovering them is
eighty percent aimless wandering around. If theres room
for a little wide-eyed rambling in your schedule, youll find
no more rewarding experience than meandering around the
Old Town. Those looking for a little more guidance, however,
would do well to take into account our picks and tips to ensure
they miss nothing of importance during their stay.
The first port of call in Wrocaw, and that which the entire
city is laid out around, is the Market Square, or Rynek (A/B-
3). This is not only the citys municipal centre, but also the
social and cultural centre of Wrocaw: a place of happenings,
concerts and performance art, lined with terraced cafes and
restaurants. Note that while the Rynek was originally built
in the 13th century, much of what you see today is in fact a
faade, quite literally. The square was ravaged by fighting in
World War II and had to be rebuilt almost entirely in the 1950s.
Though strict attention was given to original details, particu-
larly those of the frontage, much of what lies behind them
experienced understandable updating (though a medieval
cellar never stops being a medieval cellar). Proudly square-
shouldered in the squares centre stands the Town Hall - a
miraculous survivor from the 13th century and the citys
defining landmark. After exploring the three passageways
packed with shops and bars that run under the Town Hall
Wrocaw Old Town
Town Hall (Ratusz)
Lower Silesian Cultural Information Centre
A-3, Rynek - Ratusz 24, tel. (+48) 71 342 22 91,
www.dcik.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Tourist Information A-3, Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 71
344 31 11, www.wroclaw-info.pl. Brochures, maps,
events and advice. Theres also a second point at ul.
Sukiennice 12 (A-3, open 11:00-19:00) offering all the
above as well as internet access and ticket purchase for
cultural events. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Tourist Information
66
WHAT TO SEE
67
WHAT TO SEE
clastic fury that was to follow in peacetime, and most likely
ended up being tossed into a blast furnace. When Fredro was
unveiled to the people of Wrocaw in 1956 his plinth came
without the aristocratic initials HR. Following popular con-
demnation the communist authorities relented and Fredro
has since stood gazing forth in all his noble brilliance. Like
the Mickiewicz monument in Krakw, or Zygmunt in Warsaw,
the Fredro statue has grown to symbolize the city, and is the
principal meeting point for both canoodling couples, students
bashing bongo drums and political agitators.
Monument to the Victims of the Katy Massacre
(Pomnik Ofiar Zbrodni Katyskiej) D-3, Sowacki
Park. Anyone who has an unindoctrinated knowledge of
World War II history or who has spent more than 15 minutes
in Poland, is probably familiar with the subject of this memo-
rial which remembers the 22,000 Polish military officers,
policemen, intelligensia and POWs murdered by the NKVD
on Stalins orders in 1940. Designed by Warsaw sculptor
Tadeusz Tchrzewski, the striking monument depicts the
sword-wielding Angel of Death on a high pedastal over the
figure of Katy Pieta - the Matron of the Homeland despair-
ing over the body of a murdered prisoner of war. Symbolic
granite walls/graves flank the scene, with the names of the
POW camps and places of mass murder inscribed on them.
Anguished, terrifying and gruesome in turn, with detail down
to the bullethole in the back of the fallen officers head, this
evocative monument was unveiled in 1999 and can be found
in the park next to the Racawice Panorama.
Monument to Victims of the Flood (Powodzianka)
B-2, Most Uniwersytecki. Standing halfway across Most
Uniwersytecki youll come across Stanisaw Wysockis trib-
ute to the thousands of anonymous heroes who sprang to
Wrocaws rescue during the great flood of 1997. Erected in
Iglica (Spire) I-4, Hala Stulecia, ul. Wystawowa
1. This iconic 96 metre tall steel spire was erected on
the Centennial Hall exhibition grounds in 1948 as part
of the propagandic Recovered Territories Exhibition.
Meant to symbolise the soaring achievements of the
countrys newly acquired western territories since they
were returned to Communist Poland, like many of the
Partys ideas, this one quickly went wrong. Originally
106 metres, Iglicas peak was adorned with a spinning
contraption of mirrors which would create a dazzling
umbrella of light at night. The apparatus was ominously
struck by lightning only hours after completion with much
of it crashing to the ground in dazzling catastrophe. The
remaining dangling bits posed quite a hazard to the
expected thousands who would attend the exhibition. To
the rescue came two college students who were part of
a climbing club and volunteered to dismantle the top of
the structure for free after the military proved unable to
sort the situation due to the inclimate weather. Scaling
the Iglica took 24 hours and 15 minutes, dismantling it
another six, but the boys succeeded in becoming heroes
of the enormous media spectacle. In 1964, the spire was
reduced by 10 metres for safety reasons. During martial
law, another daredevil climbed the tower and attached
a Solidarity flag to its zenith. Today the ugly ribbed
structure continues to stand outside Hala Stulecia and
is probably one of the tallest pieces of useless bolted
metal in the world. To get to Centennial Hall Complex take
trams 1, 2, 4 or 10 east from the city centre.
Iglica
Racawice Panorama (Panorama Racawicka)
C-3, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel. (+48) 71 344 23 44,
www.panoramaraclawicka.pl. The Panorama is not
just a painting. Its a pilgrimage. The 140m-long canvas
depicts the legendary General Tadeusz Kociuszkos
victory over the Russian forces at Racawice in 1794,
and took just over nine months to complete. Peasants
wielding scythes rush the ranks of Russian hussars in
a heroic bid for independence. They win the battle, but
the uprising comes to nought. Poland wont be truly
self-governing until the early 20th century. The painting
was born in a burst of patriotic fervor in Lww (now Lviv,
Ukraine) a hundred years after the battle. Painters Jan
Styka and Wojciech Kossak wanted to create a monu-
ment to Polish national spirit. Their work, displayed in a
rotunda built especially for it, was a popular - and financial
- success. After World War II, the Soviet Union, which had
absorbed the city of Lviv, sent the painting to Wrocaw.
Its subject, however, was a bit too nationalistic for the
local Communist authorities, who rejected several bids
to display it. The current building was completed in 1967,
but the Panorama itself was not installed for display until
1985. Today school groups and hordes of others file in
daily for a 30-minute taped lecture on the painting and
its history. Headsets with commentary in 14 languages
(including English, French, Russian, Spanish, German
and even Esperanto) are available at no extra charge.
Presentations are held every half hour. Around 1,600
people per day turn up to admire the painting, so dont
think youll just be able to walk in straight away - expect
queues. Q Open 09:00-17:00. From July open 09:00-
17:30. Admission 22/16z.
Racawice Panorama
St. Martins Church (Koci w. Marcina) C-2,
ul. w. Marcina. This tiny brick church is all that remains
of the Piast dynastys 13th-century royal castle, though it,
too, was largely rebuilt in the 15th and 20th centuries. Before
WWII the church was a centre of Polish culture in a primarily
German city. Poles gathered here to hear sermons and sing
hymns in their own language. The last Polish mass under
Nazi oppression was held here in 1939. The church was
80% destroyed in the siege of Wrocaw. A plaque outside
reads in part, We are Poles...A Pole is a brother to a Pole...
Poland is our mother, we cannot speak badly of our mother.
St. Mary Magdalenes Church (Koci w. Marii
Magdaleny) B-3, ul. Szewska 10, tel. (+48) 609 42
84 23. This massive church was the second to be built on
the left bank of the Odra River, after St. Adalberts. During
the Reformation it was taken over by the Protestants and
was not returned to the Catholic church until after WWII. Its
most striking features are the 12th-century Romanesque
portal that was moved here from the Benedictine abbey -
considered to be Wrocaws most valuable relic from that
era - and the Penitants Bridge spanning the two soaring,
yet stunted towers whose cupolas were never replaced
after WW2.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
No visting during mass please.
The Church of the Holy Cross/St. Bartholomews
C-2, Plac Kocielny, tel. (+48) 71 322 25 74. One
of Ostrw Tumskis most beautiful and iconic structures,
thanks to a 70m steeple and impressive entry staircase,
this curious sanctuary is actually two churches in one. Split
over two levels, the building comprises the shorter windows
of the Church of St. Bartholomew - today the parish church
of a Ukraine-Byzantine congregation - beneath the soaring
windows of the upper level Church of the Holy Cross. The
first two-storey church in Silesia, and one of only a few in
all of Europe, the church was completed in 1295 as an act
of reconciliation ending a long dispute between Duke Henry
IV and Bishop Thomas II. For centuries the sarcophagus of
Henry IV was housed in the upper Church of the Holy Cross,
however today it can be seen on display in the National
Museum. Standing outside the church is a large sculpture of
John of Nepomuk dating from 1732.QOpen during mass only.
University Church of the Blessed Name of Jesus
(Koci Najwitszego Imienia Jezus) B-2, Pl.
Uniwersytecki 1, tel. (+48) 71 344 94 23, www.uni-
wersytecki.archidiecezja.wroc.pl. This Late Baroque
church has been ranked among the most beautiful in Central
Europe. Its certainly the most impressive in Wrocaw. The
Jesuits built the church as part of the university complex in
the late 17th century on the site of the Piast castle. Part of
the castle structure can still be seen in the northern sacristy,
the alcove at the far end of the church. The interior, painted
to imitate marble and gilt, is very well preserved and most
of the furnishings are original. Look up to see the fresco on
the vaults; the figures are 18th-century depictions of natives
from the Americas, Africa, Asia and Europe. Q Open 10:00-
15.30. Sun 10:00-19:00. No visiting during mass please.
Monuments
Alexander Fredro A-3, ul. Rynek Ratusz. Walking
around Wrocaws Rynek its impossible to miss the form
of the elegant looking fella cast in stone sitting outside the
Spi microbrewery. Thats Alexander Fredro, one of Polands
most distinguished literary figures. His statue replaced that of
Kaiser Wilhelm who had stood on that spot during Wrocaws
incarnation as the city of Breslau. Although unharmed by the
bombs and bullets of the war Wilhelm fell foul of the icono-
1998 the three metre structure depicts a nameless woman
wading out of the water carrying books, mimicking scenes
that took place in 1997 when local students joined efforts to
save the priceless artifacts hidden in the University Library.
The Anonymous Pedestrians (Pomnik Przejcia)
A-5, Corner of ul. Pisudskiego and ul. widnicka. When
youre tired of gazing at Wrocaws multitude of cherubs,
gargoyles and bearded national heroes clutching important
pens and looking frightfully serious, hike on down to the
junction of Pisudskiego and widnicka and have a look at an
entirely different take on public art. The wonderfully lifelike
bronze statues descending into the earth that make up The
Anonymous Pedestrians are a memorial to the introduction
of martial law on December 13, 1981, and the hordes of
people who disappeared (went underground) in the middle
of the night courtesy of the militia. The work of Jerzy Kalina,
the 14 statues were erected here in the middle of the night in
2005 on the 24th anniversary of the introduction of martial
law, though the prophetic moulds were actually made several
years before the events they commemorate.
The Naked Swordsman (Fontanna Szermierza)
B-2, Pl. Uniwersytecki. The University of Wrocaw presents
plenty of superb photographic opportunities, but the most
popular has to be the naked swordsman proudly standing at
the entrance of the main building. The work of Hugo Lederer,
the splendid sculpture was erected in 1904 and prompted
complaints from parish priests that students would be mor-
ally corrupted by the statues naked form. Early grumblings
were countered by the legend that the statue represents
an extravagant gambler who squandered all but his sword
in drunken card games - thus serving as an example to the
universitys 14,000 students. Town mayor, George Bender,
agreed and the statue has stood ever since.
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68
WHAT TO SEE
69
WHAT TO SEE
National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) D-3, Pl.
Powstacw Warszawy 5, tel. (+48) 71 343 88 39,
www.mnwr.art.pl. Wrocaws National Museum houses one
of the largest collections of Polish art. Before the 18th cen-
tury this means almost exclusively religous art: altarpieces,
urns for relics, busts of saints and the like. Later parts of the
collection also include applied arts and quite a few pieces on
national themes (uprisings and saints figure heavily in Polish
history). By far the most interesting bit is the 20th-century
collection on the top floor. Innovative installation artists like
Magdalena Abakanowicz and Jzef Szajna make this an ex-
citing period in Polish art. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Also open every last Tuesday of
the month, 10:00-17:00. Admission 15/10z. Groups over
10 people 5z per person, Sat free. Entry free with a ticket
to the nearby Racawice Panorama.
Natural History Museum (Muzeum Przyrodnicze)
D-1, ul. Sienkiewicza 21, tel. (+48) 71 375 41 45,
www.muzeum-przyrodnicze.uni.wroc.pl. Halls full of
massive skeletons, stuffed animal corpses posed on fake
landscapes, butterflies pinned to boards - all natural history
museums are gloomy places and this is no exception. The
collection was founded as part of the University of Wroclaw
in 1811 and moved to its own building in 1906. The entire
collection for public display was destroyed in World War II,
but has been replaced since and now numbers about three
million animals and half a million plants. You wont find much
English, but for bio-buffs its the Latin that matters, right?
Note that ongoing renovations and repairs might mean that
some exhibits are closed. We have, however, been promised
that a new permanent feature, Plant World, will be open for
the 2011 summer season. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5-8/3-5z.
Post & Communications Museum (Muzeum
Poczty i Telekomunikacji) C-3, ul. Krasiskiego 1,
tel. (+48) 71 343 67 65, www.muzeum.wroclaw.pl.
Housed inside the 1929, bullet-knarled former Central Post
Office, this magnificent building was one of the first high-rises
in Wrocaw and is easily recognisable from the Old Town
thanks to the crown of satellite dishes on its roof. Today it
houses one of the citys more interesting museums, tracing
the history of Polish communications from the beginnings
of its postal service in 1558 through to the present day.
The museum houses some fascinating displays featuring
everything from old postmens uni forms to stamps to a
bizarre collection of post boxes of the world. With thoughtful
explanations in good English its possible to spend hours in
here. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00
- 16:00. Closed Tue. Admission 7/6z. Groups over 10 people
4z per person, Sun free.
The Royal Palace, History Museum (Paac
Krlewski, Muzeum Historyczne) A-3, ul. Kazimi-
erza Wielkiego 35, tel. (+48) 71 391 69 40, www.mmw.
pl. Wrocaw isnt particularly known for its museums, the
majority of which are underfunded and outdated. However
the opening of the main branch of the Wrocaw City Museum
inside the renovated Baroque Royal Palace changed all that.
Purchased by Frederick the Great of Prussia in 1750, the
palace was converted to become the royal residence of
the Prussian Hohenzolern kings - a function which it served
from the 17th to 20th century. Badly damaged during WWII,
only hal f of the structure survived and now houses the
permanent exhibition, 1000 Years of Wrocaw, tracing
the complex history of the Silesian capital from the Middle
Ages to modern day through its art and artefacts, including
meticulous recreations of the royal apartments and the
unique Beyersdorf Room decorated entirely in Dutch tiles
In 1948, Wrocaws Centennial Hall (Hala Stulecia) played host
to the largest, most organised propaganda event in Polands
history: The Recovered Territories Exhibition. An official term
coined by Polands post-war communist authorities, the
recovered territories denoted those lands re-appropriated
to Poland as compensation for territorial losses in the east
which had been absorbed by the Soviet Union. The Partys
underlying aim was to construe the countrys new western
territorial acquisitions of which Wrocaw (formerly Breslau)
was the largest city - as belonging to a Polish Piast tradition
that dated to medieval times; centuries of German presence
in Silesia was explained as evidence of unyielding German
aggression, and Polands repossession of the resource-rich
region, which had repeatedly fed the German war machine,
would ensure world peace in the future.

One look at Wrocaws Centennial Hall must have made Po-
lands communist leaders change their minds; a more glori-
ous piece of gray concrete could not have been dreamed up
by even the Soviet Unions best-rinsed brains. Immediately
renamed the Peoples Hall (Hala Ludowa), even today its
difficult to conceive that the monumental structure wasnt
built under Stalins stewardship making it an all the more
attractive place for party propaganda. The preparation of
the exhibition centre included the construction of the 106m
high Iglica Spire (see sightseeing) and 48 pavilions portray-
ing the glory of life in Silesia (Slsk in Polish) since it had
been Polonised: among them were an idyllic barn full of cows
where guests were invited to drink milk and a long conveyor
belt around which miners from Wabrzych pretended to
produce coal. Hala Ludowas main exhibition space was
reserved for the real heroes of the Peoples Republic: the
workers. Here 200 photos and biographies presented the
regions super socialist achievers, among them Wincenty
Hajduk - a miner extraordinaire whose efficiency was 571%
above his peers, and Legnicas Maria Lewin who apparently
could knit at +401%. All told, the exhibition cost a whopping
700 million zoty and was visited by 1.5 million people during
its run from July 21st to the end of October 1948; workers
across the country were even given days off specifically for
organised trips to visit the exhibition.
In concert with the Recovered Territories Exhibition, the
International Congress of Intellectuals in Defence of
Peace was organised in August 1948 with much the
same propagandist aims - international luminaries were
invited based on their perceived susceptibility to the
Soviet message. In all, high-profile representatives of
46 countries attended the Congress including Graham
Greene, Bertolt Brecht and Pablo Picasso, who was
flown in on a special plane provided by the Peoples
Republic and was apparently so charmed by the display
of Polish folk costumes that he bought the Zakopane
set. However, not everyone in attendance was endeared;
in fact some guests were downright outraged and the
Congress became a well-publicised scandal. Constantly
searched and hounded by Secret Service agents, many
of the intellectuals found a blatantly doctored message
from Albert Einstein and several speeches condemning
western culture all too transparent. Despite being a
mockery, however, in the end the resolution drafted by
the Congress which condemned the war preparations of
a handful of greedy war profiteers in Europe and America
who have adopted the ideas of racial superiority from fas-
cism went unsigned by only twenty of the 357 gathered
participants and the Party was well-pleased with itself.
Recovered territories Museums
Archaeology Museum (Muzeum Archeologiczne)
A-2, ul. Cieszyskiego 9, tel. (+48) 71 347 16 96, www.
mmw.pl. Like all the best museums in Poland, Wrocaws Ar-
chaeological Museum is located inside a building thats a museum
in itself. In this instance the citys former 15th-century Arsenal
plays host to the usual suspects found lurking in most museums
of its type. There are English captions now for many exhibits, while
others, such as the gargoyles and the reconstructed thatched
house fascinate without the need to know more. There are three
permanent exhibitions - Medieval Silesia with the reconstructed
thatched house mentioned earlier, Ancient Silesia - Stone Age
and early Bronze Age and Ancient Silesia - Bronze and Iron Age.
On display are everyday objects from these times such as military
items, ornaments and tools. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 -
18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 7/5z, Wed free.
Archdiocese Museum (Muzeum Archidiecez-
jalne) D-2, Pl. Katedralny 16, tel. (+48) 71 327 11
78. This is a do-it-yoursel f museum: It throws rooms full
of religious art at you and youre left to decide for yourself
what to make of it. Much of the art is recent, the work of
local religious orders, but the largest room is filled with
invaluable medieval works from around Poland. Diehard art
historians will no doubt find something of interest. QOpen
09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 4/3z.
Architecture Museum (Muzeum Architektury)
C-3, ul. Bernardyska 5, tel. (+48) 71 344 82 78, www.
ma.wroc.pl. A unique and thoroughly recommended per-
manent exhibition inside the gorgeous 16th-century former
Bernadine monastery, the citys architecture museum is more
of a record of all that was lost in the city during WWII than a true
museum of architecture. Permanent displays include beautiful
examples of stained glass from the 12th century through to
some spectacular Art Nouveau pieces, a breathtaking collec-
tion of tiled ceramic stoves, intricate door handles, Turkish floor
tiles and a selection of truly ghastly gargoyles. Theres a large
model of the city as it was in 1740, which clearly shows its
status as a fortress surrounded by water, and the occasional
temporary to keep the eyes peeled for. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00,
Wed 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admis-
sion 10/7z. Groups over 10 people 5z per person, Wed free.
Ethnographic Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne)
H-5, ul. Traugutta 111/113, tel. (+48) 71 344 33 13,
www.muzeumetnograficzne.pl. The best part of the
Ethnographic Museum is on the top floor. Life-size dolls are
arranged in quaint scenes of life in Silesia before 1945. It
wont take you long to see it, but the national costumes and
farm equipment offer a glimpse of life you wont find in urban
Wrocaw. And the museums strange fondness for the definite
article in the English labels is worth a giggle. Admission free
with a ticket to the Racawice Panorama. QOpen 10:00 -
16:00, Thu 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3z.
Groups over 10 people 2z per person, Sat free.
Military Museum (Muzeum Militariw) A-2, ul.
Cieszyskiego 9, tel. (+48) 71 347 16 96, www.mmw.
pl. The other half of the 15th-century arsenal that houses
the Archaeology Museum is, appropriately, the Military Mu-
seum. Not surprisingly, the Medieval halls are filled with arms
and weapons of all sorts, many of them dating to the 18th
century. There is also a temporary collection of medals - a lot
more interesting than it sounds - and military flags, some of
which have the battle scars of live action. Helmets, swords
and guns also to the fore. Well worth an hour of your time.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Admission 7/5z, Wed free.
Town Hall, Museum of City Art (Ratusz,
Muzeum Sztuki Mieszczaskiej) A-3, Rynek,
tel. (+48) 71 347 16 90, www.mmw.pl. The first thing
youll probably notice about the Town Hall (Ratusz) is that
it seems to be patched together from bits and pieces
of a dozen different buildings, and in many ways it was.
Construction began in the end of the 13th century and con-
tinued - through all the changing political and artistic forces
- for about 250 years. The Town Hall was the centre of city
life up until the early 20th century, housing the Town Coun-
cil, merchants stalls and - most importantly - a beer cellar.
The building escaped relatively unscathed after World War
II (an estimated 10% was damaged). After reconstruction
work, it was re-opened as the Museum of City-Dwellers
Art (Muzeum Sztuki Mieszczaskiej). Inside you can see
the remarkable Gothic interiors and a collection of silver
and other city artefacts. In the Treasury room, look for the
new flower-shaped decorative keystones which replaced
Nazi symbols installed during World War II. The most fun
part of the Town Hall to explore is the elaborate exterior
decoration. See if you can find scenes from Aesops fables,
or grotesque scenes of medieval pub life. Note that exhib-
its are poorly marked,
there are few signs and
finding your way around
can be a bit of a stab in
the dark. QOpen 10:00
- 17:00, Sun 10:00 -
18: 00. Cl osed Mon,
Tue. Admission 10/7z,
Wed free.
Town Hall
Partisan Hill B- 4. I f
youre walking along ul. Ks.
Skargi its impossible to
miss the white crescent-
shaped structure rising
by Most Skargi. Wzgrze
Par t yzantw ( Par ti san
Hill) is one of the few re-
maining ancient fortifications that once protected the
Old Town from invasion. Built between 1594 and 1598,
and originally awarded the name Bastion Sakwowy
(Saddlebag Bastion), the buildings you see now topping
the horizon date from the 19th century when the area
was redeveloped to serve as public recreational space.
A fearsome tower, designed by Berlin architect Carl
Schmidt was added in 1867, though this was demolished
during WWII to prevent advancing Russian troops from
using it as a reference point for artillery shelling. At the
start of the siege of Festung Breslau the subterranean
bunkers and catacombs were used as HQ by Nazi high
command, though they relocated in March 1945 as the
Red Army drew closer. After the war the hillock was re-
christened Partisan Hill and the old cellars temporarily
housed a museum. Today much of the area lies forlorn
and forgotten, a once gleaming construction littered with
smashed bottles and spray can squiggles, though recent
restoration hints at better times. The windswept loneli-
ness that greets visitors is ripe for myth and legend, and
stories of secret Nazi tunnels and the ghostly shrieks of
prisoners tortured to death in medieval times abound.
Partisan Hill
70
WHAT TO SEE
71
OLD TOWN
While youre gawping at the medieval beauty of Wrocaws
Market Square (Rynek) keep this in mind: in 1945 much
of the square was levelled by the war. Such was the dedi-
cation of Wrocaws pioneers - the resettlers from the
east - that the remarkable ensemble you see today was
faithfully rebuilt, though not before many of the original
bricks had been sent to help with the post-war Warsaw
rebuil ding ef fort. Done wi th a remarkabl e attention to
detail, tourists can now even admire a replica of the stone
pillory (south east of the Town Hall) used to flog people
from 1492 to way into the 18th century. Topped with the
figure of a hangman the column was originally the work
of Briccius Gauske and it was here that prostitutes and
thieves were lashed. Indeed, being on the wrong side of
the law in Wrocaw was a dangerous occupation. Other
punishments meted out on this spot included the severing
of hands, ears and noses, all of which would be enthusi-
astically lapped up by the watching crowds. Wrocaws
principal gallows was positioned outside the house on
Rynek 19, the condemned accompanied on their final walk
by the doleful dong of the Sinners Bell once found in St.
Mary Magdalenes Church. According to local legend the
town bellmaker killed his apprentice in a blind fury after
the lad interfered with the important churchbell, casting
it without him. Finding it perfectly crafted, the repentant
bellmaker confessed his sin and was sentenced to hang.
His final request was to walk to the gallows to the perfect
pitch of the bell, and from there the tradition stuck.
Further on the south side of the Rynek stands the strange
sculpture of a brown bear on a tree stump outside the
entrance of Piwnica widnicka in the Town Hall; rub his
tongue for luck before continuing on to the statue of Count
Aleksander Fredro. A legendary comedy writer, his statue
was brought from Lvov in 1956, replacing the statue that
had previously occupied the space up until the end of the
war - that of Kaiser Wilhelm. Formerly the home of the
Wrocaw fish market, from 1545 until 1745 it was also the
site of the madmans shed - a cage where drunks and other
miscreants would be incarcerated. City records reveal those
imprisoned ranged from a cross-dressing woman to a pair
of compulsive gamblers caught engrossed in a card game
during a church sermon.
The market square and much of the grid of streets around
it was laid out by city planners in 1241. It was then and
remains even now one of the largest squares of its kind in
Europe. Its centre is dominated by the Gothic Town Hall
and an ensemble of buildings that replaced the original
trading stalls. Surrounding the Town Hall are buildings
whose facades range from Gothic to Art Nouveau (Rynek 6)
- with only a little bit of modern thrown in for comparisons
sake: for instance, that grey ten-storey office building at
Rynek 11. Completed in 1931 the structure was designed
by Heinrich Rump and is a glimpse at what the market
square might have looked like had a ludicrous project to
modernize the historic centre ever come to fruition. It was
the idea of Max Berg - creator of the concrete bliss called
Hala Ludowa - to demolish the buildings surrounding the
Town Hall, replacing them with 20 storey concrete towers.
After much deliberation city authorities abandoned the
plan, in the process saving the Wrocaw loved by all today.
In lieu of addresses, the buildings originally had symbols
from which they took their names. Since the symbol was
generally placed above the door, the buildings would be
called, for example, Under the Golden Eagle (Pod Zotym
Orem, Rynek 4). Most of these are still visible and have
given their name overto whatever restaurant or bar has
moved in. The majority come steeped in legend and his-
tory, with the building at number 7 once serving as an inn
for visiting regents and nabobs. Under the Golden Dog (Pod
Zotym Psem, Rynek 41), meanwhile, is one of the most
haunted houses in Wrocaw. The sounds of carpentry can
allegedly be heard on the stroke of midnight, while another
tal e claims that Frederick the Great was once staying
in the residence, when all of a sudden a demonic force
snatched his feather quilled pen and hurled him across
the room. Its not the only house where youll find scary
goings-on. The house on the corner of the Rynek and ul.
Mikoaja is allegedly haunted by a particularly nasty chap
who was possessed by a goblin living in the bell tower of
St. Elizabeths Church. Motivated by greed he murdered
his grandmother for the sake of her fortune.
Adjacent to the Market Square is Plac Solny, which is
almost as impressive architecturally, especially with its
elaborate reliefs and figurines bursting from the facades.
Formerly home to a bazaar specializing in salt, leather and
honey the centre is now a 24 hour flower market - which
is good news for budding romeos, looking to delight any
beauties they may have seduced on the dancefloors of
Wrocaw. But Plac Solny has also played a darker role in
Wrocaws past. It was from the windows of a house here
that John of Capistrano conducted fire and brimstone
sermons in 1453. Holding a human skull in one hand,
his diatribes and rants inspired his captivated flock to
throw cards and mirrors into a bonfire. Unfortunately the
fiery antics didnt stop there. It was partly under Johns
instigation that a panel of city chiefs ordered the arrest
of all Jews. They were given a stark choice: convert to
Christianity, or face death at the stake. On a lighter note,
the narrow passageway leading from Solny to ul. Szajnochy
should not be missed. It was the building at Szajnochy 10
that once housed Goethe during a fleeting trip to Wrocaw
in 1790, while its environs were once home to the towns
Jewish population.
Although much of Wrocaws historic centre was subject
to meticulous renovation after the war the millhouses and
wooden cottages that once lined the canal were never rebuilt,
and nowadays this belt of land remains a quiet, meditative
spot in the centre of the city. Delving back into the heart of
the historic centre the numerous side streets that sprout
off ul. Kiebaniczna are well worth exploring, most notably
Stare Jatki; formerly filled with rows of butchers stalls, this
cobbled alleyway features a collection of cast-iron farm
animals in reference to its past, though today its principal
industry lies in selling local artwork to those with plenty of
cash at their disposal. Close by ghouls and artsy types will
enjoy interrupting a tour of the Old Town by drinking in the
beatnik environs of Klub Pracoffnia (B-2, ul. Wizienna 6),
a former medieval prison.
Wrocaw University (Uniwersytet Wrocawski)
B-2, Pl. Uniwersytecki 1, tel. (+48) 71 375 26 18,
www.muzeum.uni.wroc.pl. Founded by the Jesuits in
1670, the magnificent Baroque main building of Wrocaw
University and the adjacent Church of the Blessed
Name of Jesus that stand today were built at the same
time on the former site of a derelict Piast castle after a
land grant from Emperor Leopold. In 1811, Prussia secu-
larised all church property and took over administration
of the university. Prior to this the Austrian-Prussian war
in 1741 saw the campus transformed into a hospital, a
prison and finally, in 1757, a food store. The dying days
of WWII saw the university library turned into a makeshift
HQ for the occupying Nazis. At the wars end the Ger-
man faculty were all but exiled, with the replacement
professors arriving from the University of Lww forming
the first Polish faculty to teach here. The University still
functions as an academic building, and past professors
include Alois Alzheimer (the man who gave his name to
the disease) and Robert Bunsen (who didnt invent the
Bunsen burner but improved it to such a degree that it
was named in his honour). Since the start of the 20th
century, the university has produced a remarkable 9
Nobel Prize winners and today over 40,000 students are
enrolled with 9,000 graduating each year.
Despite its ongoing functions as an academic institution,
the main university building is open to tourists who troop
in and out primarily to take photos of Aula Leopoldina,
the grand Baroque ceremonial hall. Two tickets are avail-
able: one which allegedly gives access to two university
rooms, and another which includes four. We recommend
you splash out for all four to avoid any later confusion and
consternation. The room including the ticket desk includes
an exhibit of historical university items from globes to uni-
forms, however - similar to later displays - all information is
in Polish only and is unlikely to hold much interest to casual
visitors. Be aware that the areas accessible to tourists are
laid out over four floors and there is no elevator.
The first of the University Museums two main highlights
is undoubtedly Aula Leopoldina. In true Baroque style,
the ceremonial hall is a virtual explosion of cherubs and
swag. The painting on the ceiling depicts the apotheosis
of Gods wisdom - reflecting the religious and academic
mission of this room and the Jesuits. The portraits ringing
the walls depict the founding fathers of the University.
Some years ago four of them were stolen and two have
yet to be returned. Winding upstairs past the odd exhibi-
tion and a line in the floor demarcating the 51st parallel
- which runs right through the building - visitors will reach
the terrace of the universitys Mathematical Tower
which affords great photo opportunities and panoramic
views of the Old Town and Odra River. QOpen 10:00 -
15:30. Closed Wed. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 4-10z.
Wroclaw University
Adam Dziura, wikipedia.org
from the 17th century. The upstairs contains a collection
of contemporary, post-war paintings. Though more of an
art museum than history lesson, with much of the citys
story going unexplained, the surviving relics on display are
nonetheless spectacular. Also dont miss the regal baroque
gardens behind the palace. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10z. English-speaking
guided tour, 50z; audio guides in English and German, 10 z.
Places of Interest
The Ossolineum B-2, ul. Szewska 37, tel. (+48) 71
344 44 71, www.oss.wroc.pl. This stunning Baroque
palace complex on the Odra riverbank was rebuilt to its late
17th century designs after being damaged heavily during
the war and is today one of the most outstanding works of
Baroque architecture in PL. Originally a hospital and convent,
later a college, today the magnificent grounds are home to
the Ossolineum Library - an important research centre and
national archive, the countrys oldest still-running publishing
centre and one of its largest library collections. Established
in 1817 by Jzef Maksymilian Ossoliski when he began
collecting Polish manuscripts and cultural documents in his
Vienna flat, recognising their importance to national culture
after Poland was wiped from the world map, Ossoliskis
private library became a national institute and was eventually
moved to Lviv where it expanded generously. After post-war
border changes the collection was forced to move to Wrocaw,
however communist authorities confiscated over 80% of it
which presumably remains in Lviv today. The collections of
the Ossolineum are some of the most valuable in the country
and include manuscripts by Polish bards Adam Mickiewicz
and Juliusz Sowacki, writings by Copernicus, and drawings
by Rembrandt and Durer. The site of regular exhibitions, often
free, the Ossolineum is otherwise worth a look around for the
building itself, with the library and inner and outer courtyards
all accessible to the public. Q Library open 08:00-19:45,
Sat 09:00-13:45. Closed Sun.
Wrocaw Fountain I- 4, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.
wroclawskafontanna.pl. On June 4th 2009, in honour of
the 20th anniversary of the first free elections in post-war
Poland, Wrocaw showed off one of the most stunning at-
tractions in the country - a whiz-bang multimedia fountain
of which only a few exist in the world. Wrocaws new toy
projects water up to 40 metres high through an array of
300 di fferent nozzl es which have the abili ty to rotate,
gyrate, pulse and even create a 700 square metre screen
of water on which animated projections can be displayed;
all the while music orchestrates the show through the
parks speakers. Equipped with 800 lights of varying size
and power, the Wrocaw Fountain even has pyrotechnic
capabilities with fireworks and lasers implausibly shooting
out of the large semicircle basin next to Hala Ludowa. The
result is one of the most dazzling, delightful displays of light,
sound and water youll ever see, and has been immensely
popular since it began exhibiting its talents this summer
with crowds of over 20,000 coming out in its early weeks for
the regular evening extravaganzas. Nothing puts a stamp on
the end of communism like indulging in some outrageously
expensive gadgetry; indeed, the cost of running this show
on a regular basis must be enormous, but you can see
it for free in the spring and summer. Performances vary
from 3.5 to 18 minutes with a short or long programme
of classical music (Wagner, Beethoven) on some hours,
and modern music (Apocalyptica, Faith No More) on the
others. The real stunners however are after dark on Friday
and Saturday, when the full functionality of the fountain is
on display, including lights. For more programme speci fics,
visit the official website. Q Check their website for details.
72
73
CENTENNIAL HALL AND PARKS OSTRW TUMSKI
Pl ayi ng soul to the Ryneks
heart, Ostrw Tumski is the
gem at the centre of Wrocaws
crown. This, after all, is where
the city began. During the latter
part of the ninth century what is
now known as Ostrw Tumski
(the name means Cathedral
Island in Polish) was settled by a
Slavic tribe, the leanie, who -
not without reason - considered
the island impregnable. The first
Silesian bishopric was built on
the island in 1000, and the town
flourished until its almost total destruction during the Tatar
invasions of the 1240s. After that date the town developed on
the other side of the Odra river, and Ostrw Tumski became
a place of almost exclusively royal - the Piast Dynasty built a
castle here in the 1260s - and religious significance. With a
few exceptions it remains primarily a place of worship and
reflection to this day; there are few shops, dwellings, cafes and
restaurants, and the Wrocaw Archdiocese occupies almost all
of the beautifully maintained classical buildings you will see.
The first thing the modern visitor notices however about Os-
trw Tumski is that, though accessed from central Wrocaw
by bridge, it is not actually an island. It was until the 19th
century, but persistent flooding led town planners to fill in one
of the Odras tributaries in 1810 (not that that has prevented
further flooding). Seemingly miles from the bustle of Rynek,
perhaps the real joy of Ostrw Tumski is its other-worldly feel.
Ul. Katedralna and ul. Idziego both provide cobbled reminders
of the past - Idzeigo especially, though it lacks the in-your-face
sights of Katedralna, is a particularly gorgeous street, still lit
today by original gas lamps and providing the perfect frame
for a picturesque, romantic evening stroll.
But we are getting ahead of ourselves. A visit to this lovely,
peaceful part of Wrocaw rightly begins at Most Piaskowy
(Sand Bridge). This is the oldest bridge in Wrocaw, built in
1861 and an engineering marvel, if no great shakes on the
architectural front. The original bridge, built back in the 11th
century, was part of the ancient trade route - the Amber
Road, which led from the Baltic Sea to Vienna, and thence
to Venice. As you walk along ul. Jadwigi you will pass the
Russian Orthodox Church of Sts. Cyril and Methodius, the
Baroque and sadly graffiti-strewn University Library, and the
Gothic Church of the Blessed Virgin on the Sand, famous for
its 16th century icon of the Virgin Mary in the northern nave.
From here the beloved, iron, 1890-built Most Tumski (Tumski
Bridge) leads you across to the oldest part of the city; look
out for the statues of St. Jadwiga (Hedwig), Silesias patron
saint, and John the Baptist, Wrocaws patron, at the head
of the bridge. Also of note are the padlocks placed on the
bridge by newlyweds to symbolise the unbreakable bond
they share going forward in life together.
Ul. Katedralna itself, which leads to The Cathedral, is the
same path that the original inhabitants of the island walked.
Indeed, if you poke around the stones near the cathedral, you
should be able to see the outlines of some of the buildings
that used to stand on the island.
The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (D-2, Pl. Katedralny
18) remains a living, working church. As a visitor you will un-
doubtedly encounter queues of people waiting patiently for
the confessionals and others in quiet worship. The elegant
double-spired Gothic building stands like a sentinal at the end
of ul. Katedralna, its elaborate portal one of the most valuable
medieval artefacts in Wrocaw. What we see today is in fact Macie 3k
the fourth church to be built on this site. When construction
began in 1244, this was the first brick building in Poland.
Cathedral-building being what it is, work continued for five
more centuries. The centrepiece of the rich, Gothic interior is
the altarpiece, painted in Lublin in 1522, showing the Virgin
Mary falling asleep. The Cathedral suffered massive damage
in WWII, with traces of bullet holes still visible, and has been
meticulously rebuilt since. Of interest, to some at least, the
cathedral houses the largest organ in Poland, which prior to the
war was also the largest in the world. But the real highlight of
the Cathedral is the panoramic view from its tower. An elevator
takes you to the top of the Cathedrals tower, which offers a
wonderful view of the city and surrounding countryside. Theres
also a small exhibition at the top of the tower featuring various
objects brought back from missions.
To the right of the Cathedral is the stunning Archdiocese
Museum (D-2, Pl. Katedralny 16), a do-it-yourself museum
that throws rooms full of religious art at you and youre left
to decide for yourself what to make of it. Much of the art is
recent - the work of local religious orders, but the largest
room is filled with invaluable medieval works from around
Poland. Art historians will no doubt find plenty of interest.
Four other churches of note are located in the area: the 15th cen-
tury Church of Sts. Peter and Paul (C-2; ul. Katedralna); the curi-
ous two-level Church of the Holy Cross (C-2, Plac Kocielny);
ul. Idziegos St. Giles Church (C-2) - the only Wrocaw church to
survive the Tatars; and the somewhat irregularly shaped St.
Martins Church (C-2, ul. w. Marcina) - all that remains of the
Piast dynastys 13th-century royal castle, which once stood on
the island. St. Martins too, however, was largely rebuilt in the
15th and 20th centuries. Before WWII the church was a centre
of Polish culture in a primarily German city. Poles gathered here
to hear sermons and sing hymns in their own language. The last
Polish mass under Nazi oppression was held here in 1939. A
plaque outside reads in part, We are Poles... A Pole is a brother
to a Pole... Poland is our mother, we cannot speak badly of our
mother. Outside St. Martins stands a massive monument to
Pope John Paul II, placed here in 1986.
To complete a thorough visit to the island you should not
miss the charming Botanical Gardens (D-2, ul. Sienkiewicza
23). The gardens began life as a scientific pursuit, but have
become a favourite retreat for Wrocaws residents. The
garden was built from 1811 to 1816 on the riverbed where
the Odra once flowed around Ostrw Tumski. The grounds
include cactus and palm houses, aquariums, a plant shop
and cafe, and a large pond with picturesque bridges.
Finally, completionists might want to view the scale model of
the Ostrw Tumskis earliest incarnation in the Archaeologi-
cal Museum (A-2, ul. Cieszyskiego 9).
Once youve finished ogling the Old Town and Ostrw Tumski,
theres one more district of this fine city that visitors will be
poorer heading home without having seen. Just east of the city
centre lie a clutch of outdoor attractions surrounding Szczynicki
Park and the Centennial Exhibition Complex, including Wrocaws
only UNESCO site, the countrys oldest zoo, the Japanese Gar-
den and the citys latest tell-me-that-you-love-me tourist lure,
the Pergola Fountain. Intended as a city showpiece since its
creation, the area east of the Odra long held a somewhat luke-
warm public standing thanks to dubious historical connotations
and debatable aesthetic appeal; however recent renovations,
the UNESCO nod and the addition of the magnificent multimedia
fountain have made it a favourite place of locals and cemented
its place as a Wrocaw must-see.
Cross the picturesque Zwierzyniecki Bridge (I-4) and you
find yourself immediately alongside the cagey enclosure of
the Wrocaw Zoological Gardens (I-4/5, see Leisure). A
product of the citys dynamic development in the late 19th
century, Wrocaws zoo dates back to 1865 and became the
oldest in the country when Poland inherited it after World
War II. Suffering severe wartime damage, many of the zoos
elegant historic buildings were reconstructed and can be
found in the southern part of the park. With over 6000 critters
of some 600 different species, the zoo is one of Wrocaws
most visited attractions and provides foreigners with an
opportunity to pick up a few phrases from one of the only
Polish-speaking macaws in the world (making good money on
the side as a voice talent for Polish dubovers of Disney flicks).
Leaving the animal house antics of the zoo, turn onto ulica
Wystawowa (Exhibition Street) and youll soon find yourself
staring down the Centennial Hall promenade, including the
ivy-covered columns leading to the towering Iglica monument
(see Sightseeing) and monolithic Centennial Hall behind it (I-4,
ul. Wystawowa 1). (Please note that the Hall is currently closed
for renovation and is expected to re-open in September 2011).
With Wrocaw developing rapidly in the late 18th century it was
determined that the city required an exhibition hall and the
hundred year anniversary of Napoleons defeat at the Battle
of Leipzig in 1913 was deemed a timely occasion for an ex-
pensive, over-the-top exhibition hall that would figuratively flex
the architectural muscle of the German Nation. Max Berg, who
had been appointed as official city architect in 1909, quickly
set about designing his career-piece, and (what-do-ya-know?)
his proposal was chosen over 42 others by city council despite
abject objection from almost everyone who laid eyes on the
design, which resembled a colossal concrete hatbox and would
cost an enormous 1.9 million Reichmarks. Teaming with emi-
nent architect Hans Poelzig, the two personally oversaw the
project which was completed in 1913 and has become one of
the most important architectural monuments of the early 20th
century. With an inner diameter of 69 metres, a height of 42
metres and a 10,000 person capacity, the Jahrhunderthalle
(as it was called) became the highest structure of its type in
the world; that type being a gigantic multi-purpose structure
of radial reinforced concrete ribs unlike anything the world had
ever seen. Though routinely left off lists of the worlds most
attractive buildings, one thing is undeniable: the Centennial Hall
is an engineering marvel. Building a structure of such size out
of steel and concrete was both revolutionary and extremely
daring; in fact the workers that helped build the behemoth
were afraid to go inside, so certain were they of its eventual
collapse. On the contrary, the Centennial Hall has inexplicably
survived two world wars and has in recent years hosted large
scale events including monumental operas, sporting events
and large concerts. It was here that Adolf Hitler held rallies and
Pope John Paul II held services during his famous visit in 1997.
With the success of the Centennial Exhibition under its belt, the
Jahrhunderthalle was to host an even more intriguing exhibition
following World War II. Renamed Hala Ludowa (the Peoples
Hall), the exhibition centre became the site of the Peoples
Republic of Polands Recovered Territories Exhibition.
Hang a left from in front of the main entrance and youll find
yourself a witness to one of the most magnificent attractions
Wrocaw has to offer. At the start of each hour, the Wrocaw
Fountain (I-4, see Sightseeing) projects water 40 metres
into the air through 300 different nozzles, creating a 700
square metre wall of water on which animated projections are
screened while music is piped through the pergolas sound
system. A full multimedia experience, the fountain has been
luring tens of thousands of people to the Centennial complex
since its June 2009 opening. As reliable as Old Faithful, from
May to September this modern marvel performs its hourly
spectacle, and costs absolutely nothing.
A stroll away from the colonnades of the pond area puts you
in Szczytnicki Park (I-3/4), the oldest and largest recreation
space in the city. Covering 115 hectares and laid out in 1785,
the once well-groomed former estate park suffered devasta-
tion during the Napoleonic Wars and WWII and today largely
resembles a natural landscape within the city borders. With the
exception of the adjoining Japanese Garden (I-4, see Leisure),
that is. Just north of the Centennial Hall, the Japanese Garden
was established in 1913 as part of the Artistic Gardening
Exhibition which accompanied the centennial celebrations.
Despite its own share of devastation, including the particu-
larly cruel flood of 1997 (see History) which occurred only two
months after a long restoration project, the arrangement of the
garden and its system of small streams are part of its nearly
hundred year old legacy. Two symbolic water cascades which
merge into one large pond comprise the main attractions of
the exquisitely manicured gardens - one of the most tranquil
escapes in the city. Elsewhere in Szczynicki Park, keep an eye
peeled for the small Church of St. Jan Nepomuk - a marvel-
lous 14th century wooden church moved to the park from the
Opole region and miraculously undamaged during the war.
Centennial Hall (Hala Stulecia) I- 4, ul. Wysta-
wowa 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 51 02, www.halaludowa.
wroc.pl. Parks open 24hrs. Hall closed for renovation until
September 2011.
Hala Ludowa by Romuald Sodek
The easiest way to reach Szczynicki Park and the Centen-
nial Exhibition Complex is via public transport. From the city
centre hop on trams 2, 4 or 10; alternatively take buses
145 or 146 east.
Getting there
74
75
SILESIAN CHURCHES OF PEACE JEWISH WROCAW
Wrocaws Jewish community is one of the oldest in todays
Poland, dating back to the 12th century when the city was
an important trade centre along the Amber Road. Though
consistently confronted with persecution - perhaps most
famously during the Inquisition of the 15th century when
John of Capistrano inspired the public torture and burning of
55 Jews on Plac Solny - Jews have steadily played a role in
the development of the city. By the end of the 19th century,
in fact, the Jewish community was so well integrated into
Breslau society that many Jews had achieved leading posi-
tions in academic and scientific circles; at the time, these
men would not have been considered any less German than
they were Jewish. Breslau (as it was then known) possessed
the second largest synagogue in Germany and its Jewish
community was the third largest in the country with numbers
that had risen to 30,000 by the time Hitler came to power.
It doesnt require much detail from us to know what befell
Bresl aus warti me Jewi sh popul ati on. The ci tys once
magni ficent main synagogue - torched on Kristallnacht
(November 9, 1938) - says enough, with only a small me-
morial remembering where it once stood at ul. kowa 6
(A-4). What less people are aware of is that after the war
when German Breslau became Polish Wrocaw, the citys
Jewish population actually increased dramatically beyond
its pre-war levels as the city accepted some 70,000 Jews
displaced by the war - many from the Soviet Union. Ironically,
Wrocaws Jewish population reached its peak immediately
after WWII; however, the anti-minority politics of the Soviet
Union slowly shrank their numbers until they had been forced
out of Poland completely by 1968. Since the fall of the Soviet
Union that number has been resurgent again and today there
are some 1,000 Jews living in Wrocaw, part of a gradual
transition from tracing the past to plotting the future which
culminated in May 2010 with the symbolic reopening of the
White Stork Synagogue.
Old Jewish Cemetery (Stary
Cmentarz ydowski) E/F-7,
ul. lna 37/39, tel. (+48)
71 791 59 03, www.mmw.pl/
muzeum/sztuki - cmentarnej.
php. Established in 1856, this 4.6
hectare cemetery is perhaps the
most well-preserved testament to the former strength of Bre-
slaus pre-war Jewish community, with over 1200 gravestones.
Closed in 1942, the cemetery quickly fell into deep neglect: in
1945 it was turned into a fortress by the Nazis and saw fierce
fighting as evidenced by the eerie bullet holes in many of the
gravestones. Preservation began in the 1970s and in 1991 it
was opened as the Museum of Jewish Cemetery Art in tribute
to the craftsmanship of its sepulchral art. Indeed the beauty
and diversity of styles and symbols on display is perhaps
unmatched anywhere. Many noteworthy figures are buried
here, including the renowned biologist Ferdinand Cohn, the
historian Heinrich Graetz (author of the first complete history
of the Jews), Clara Immerwahl (first female PhD student at
the University of Breslau, wife of Fritz Haber, who committed
suicide in objection to her husbands work developing chemical
warfare), Ferdinand Lassalle (founder and leader of the first
labour party in Germany, killed in a duel), and the parents of
Edith Stein; using old records some of their tombstones are
slowly being restored. However, despite these modest efforts
the lna Street Cemetery remains a completely mysterious
and evocative sanctuary of decaying vine-covered monu-
ments, the broken pieces of which are stacked against each
other, giving shelter to stray cats and shade to wildflowers.
Dont miss it. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission is 7/5z and
comes with a highly informative booklet which you may choose
to either return upon exiting or purchase for 15z.
New Jewish Cemetery ul. Lotnicza 51 (Fabryczna).
Located northwest of the centre, the New Jewish Cemetery
was founded in 1902 when the lna Street cemetery
became too small and is still in use by Wrocaws Jewish
community today. That hasnt saved it from the ravages of
time however, and like the cemetery it succeeded, it stands
in sharp contrast to the well-kept Catholic cemeteries across
Poland. Comprising 11 hectares and approximately 8,000
graves, this is the fifth largest Jewish cemetery in Poland,
and as such carries an even more powerful aura of secret
beauty among its maze of ivy-coved headstones and crum-
bling vaults. Likewise registered as a historical monument
for its rich diversity of aesthetic and architectural styles,
the most noteworthy tomb here is dedicated to the Jewish
soldiers of the German Army who fought and died in WWI;
their 432 names are etched into the top of the monument.
Q Open Mon, Tue, Thu 11:00-16:00, Wed 14:00-17:00, Sun
09:00-13:00. Admission free.
The White Stork Syna-
gogue (Synagoga pod
Biaym Bocianem) E- 4,
ul. Wodkowica 7, tel. (+48)
71 787 39 02. The only syna-
gogue in Wrocaw to escape
the torches of Kristallnacht,
the White Stork was built in
1829, taking its name from
the inn that once stood in its place. Following the design of
prominent German architect Karl Ferdinand Langhans, it
is ironically considered a sterling example of 18th century
Protestant sacral art. Discreetly hidden from view in a court-
yard between ul. Antoniego and ul. Wodkowica, today the
surrounding grounds are full of beer gardens, bohemians and
graffiti; however it was here that members of the Jewish com-
munity were rounded up for deployment to the death camps
during WWII. Badly damaged, but not set ablaze (thanks only
to its proximity to residential buildings), the synagogue was
literally left to rot after the war, before the Jewish community
was finally able to recover it from the Polish government in
1996 and initiate restoration. That work is now complete
and the synagogue was re-opened in May, 2010. Serving
as a worship space and cultural centre, the communitys
cultural programme has use of a new multi-functional hall
in the synagogues basement, and there are plans for a
museum. Although not yet open to regular visitors, tours can
be arranged through the nearby Jewish Information Centre.
Q Admission 6/3z.
Jewish Information Centre E-4, ul. Wodkowica
9, tel. (+48) 71 787 39 02. Only doors away from
the White Stork Synagogue, these folks arrange Jewish
walking tours of Wrocaw and will be happy to show you
around the Synagogue itself if you let them know ahead
of time. They also have a wealth of books, music and
information on hand. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 -
15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
The Bente Kahan Foundati on E- 4, ul .
Wodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 782 81 23, www.fbk.
org.pl. Founded in 2006 to accomplish the renovation
of the Synagogue, this outfit organises the monthly
events that take place there, including exhibitions, film
screenings, workshops, lectures, concerts, theatre
performances and more. For info about Jewish events
in Wrocaw, start here.
Useful contacts
Given their role in helping define one of the most important
peace treaties in European history, it is astonishing that so
few people outside Poland and Germany have ever heard of
the Churches of Peace. Indeed, the number of Germans and
Poles aware of the existence and importance of these unique
buildings appears to be fewer and fewer. Even many locals of
Wrocaw the nearest big city to the churches appear to
be unaware of their status as UNESCO World Heritage sites
(a status gained in 2001).
Though three Churches of Peace were actually built in Silesia
(at widnica, Jawor and Gogw), the church at Gogw
burnt down in 1758. (Its worth noting that foul play has
never been invoked in the destruction of the Gogw church:
it appears to have been burnt in a mundane yet tragic fire).
Alas, as wi th many of Sil esias hi dden treasures, the
Churches of Peace are inordinately difficult to get to without
a car, though both are less than 70km from central Wrocaw.
If the mood and the will grabs you however, they come well
recommended. With a car both can be done in a day; if using
Polish railways you will probably need to make two separate
trips from Wrocaw. Even the closest church to Wrocaw, at
widnica, requires a change of train.
But we are getting ahead of ourselves: first, a point of order...
The term Churches of Peace (in Polish Kocioy Pokoju)
does not in this case refer to the pacifist Christian churches
(Jehovahs Witnesses, Seventh Day Adventists etc.) often
referred to as the Churches of Peace or Peace Churches.
In fact, the Churches of Peace in Silesia would be better
named Churches of the Peace, the peace in question
being the Peace of Westphalia, the collective name given
to two treaties that put an end to the most destructive and
damaging war in early modern European History, the Thirty
Years War.
As such, any guide to the churches needs to be prefaced
with a rundown on the events that led up to the Thirty Years
War, its causes, its course, and its aftermath. We promise
to be as brief as possible.
Like so many wars involving the nations of central Europe,
the key players in the outbreak of the Thirty Years War were
an Emperor who died without an heir (creating a disputed
succession); religion; the authority of the state versus the
authority of the church.
Peace Church in widnica, Boena Pytel
widnica Peace Church (Koci Pokoju w
widnicy) Pl. Pokoju 6, widnica, tel. (+48) 74
852 28 14, www.kosciolpokoju.pl. The last of the
three peace churches to be built was that at widnica,
the closest to Wrocaw (its 50 kilometres southwest).
The problem is getting there without a car, as there
are no direct trains from Wrocaw. I f all goes according
to plan, the trip can be done in just over an hour. Be
careful though, for not only are there few trains, i f that
train is late, you could be standing on the platform at
Jaworzyna lska station (not one of Polands finest)
for much of the morning or afternoon. Check the English
option at the Polish railways site (http://rozklad-pkp.
pl) for train times.
Construction at widnica took forever, as funds were
short and work on the church continually came to a halt
due to a lack of timber. Only a donation from Heinz Hein-
rich of Ksi (see Ksi Castle) - who donated 2000 tree
trunks from the forest surrounding his castle - allowed
work to be completed, in 1657, almost five years after
the emperor had given permission for building work to
begin. Different in layout to the churches at Jawor and
Gogow it was built in the form of a Greek cross, and
when completed it was the largest wooden church in
Europe, and could accommodate 7500 worshippers. The
interior - even for those who have visited Jawor - is some
sight. Like Jawor, there are brightly decorated galleries
to accommodate the masses, and a number of private
boxes for the wealthy. The most impressive is the domed
box of the Hochberg family (who had made construction
of the church possible), topped with the Hochberg coat
of arms. The churchs astonishing altar, added in 1752
to mark the centenary of the emperor granting permis-
sion for the churchs construction, is one of the finest in
Poland and perhaps the most impressive of all protes-
tant altars anywhere in Europe. It is the work of August
Gottfried Hoffmann, a Dresden sculptor who had settled
in widnica, and its central scene depicts the baptism
of Christ in the River Jordan with the Holy Spirit watching
from above. Statues of Moses and Aaron flank the scene.
The churchs working Baroque organ, installed in 1666,
is original. There are a couple of buildings in the churchs
grounds that should not be overlooked: the Belfry and
the Lutherheim (Luthers House, originally a school),
both built in 1708. If the weathers good, its also worth
exploring the grounds to take a look at the tombstones,
many of which are intricately engraved.
widnica, though best known as home to one of the
Churches of Peace, is itself well worth a day trip from
Wrocaw. A fine medieval town that survived the ravages
of the 20th century more or less intact, it is in the clas-
sic Polish mould, centred on a colourful Rynek. Once in
widnica it all comes together. The towns main station,
widnica Miasto, is just a few meters from the central
Rynek, which is dominated by the 16th century Town
Hall that sits in the middle. There is a reasonably helpful
Tourist Information Office on the far side.
Besides the Church of Peace (which is a ten minute walk
north of the Rynek) the towns stand-out sight is the
14th century Sts. Stanisaw & Wacaw Cathedral, at 103
metres the tallest church in Silesia. Find it on pl. Jana
Pawla II, one block east of the Rynek. Q Open 10:00-
13:00, 15:00-18:00, Sun 15:00-18:00. Admission 8/4z.
widnica Peace Church
76
77
was at an end. For protestant Silesia - which after the
withdrawal of Swedish forces was once again an integral
part of the Austrian Hapsburg (and Catholic) Empire the
consequences were mani fold.
Pri mari l y because Si l esi a had been under Swedi sh
occupation for much of the war, its towns had been spared
great physical damage. The population had not been so
lucky. Some estimates claim that as many as two-thirds
of Silesias population was lost to disease (mainly plague)
and starvation during the Thirty Years War. Wrocaw lost
half of its population. So great was the human cost that
population growth in the region was stunted for two centuries
afterwards: it only really began to recover in the latter part
of the 19th century.
Though the Hapsburgs al l owed Wrocaw to retai n i ts
rel i gi ous pri vil eges and to remai n a protestant town,
throughout the rest of Silesia they quickly began to evict
protestant priests, confiscating their churches. However,
Swedish diplomats had inserted a clause into the Peace of
Westphalia that granted three Silesian towns - widnica,
Jawor and Gogw - the right to retain a protestant church,
provided i t was buil t beyond the ci tys walls, and that
the Emperor personally grant permission. Obtaining this
permission took years, cost a fortune in tributes, and
required skil ful diplomacy. Finall y, in 1651, three plots
one in each of the three cities were designated as
suitable for the building of the churches, and Emperor
Ferdinand III gave his seal of approval for the construction
of the first, at Gogw.
The first thing that strikes the visi tor to ei ther of the
survi ving churches is that they do not l ook all that much
like churches. This - i f youve been keeping up at the
back of the class - was very much the poi nt. For the
rul es for their construction - as wri tten into the Peace
of Westphalia - were stri ct, and broken onl y on pain of
death. Not onl y di d they have to be buil t beyond the ci ty
walls, they had to be buil t of wood. They were not allowed
to have bell towers or spires and they were to be paid for
by the l ocal communi ti es themsel ves. (As the whol e of
Sil esia was still recovering from the ravages of the war,
there was no money for construction: i t was eventuall y
raised by appealing to protestant communi ti es all over
Europe).
No restrictions, however, were placed on interior decoration
(this is often thought to have been an oversi ght), and
as a result the architect of the three churches, Albricht
von Sabisch (1610-88) - as any jaw-dropped visitor to
widnica or Jawor will testi fy - went seriously bananas.
Both churches were later further embellished with towers
and spires (by which time Silesia was firmly part of the very
protestant Kingdom of Prussia), resulting in the extraordinary
monuments we view today.
The first Church of Peace to be built was that at Gogw,
105 kilometres northwest of Wrocaw, where work got
under way in October 1651; the first service took place on
October 25th 1652. The church was not to be altogether
lucky: it fell down in high winds in 1654, though was quickly
rebuilt. It then burnt down in 1758 (local legend states it
was struck by lightning) and was replaced by a brick church.
A bomb destroyed that during World War II, leaving just
a shell which was pulled down in the 1950s by Polands
communist government. A sketch of the church (the only
one in existence) can be seen in the similar-looking, though
much smaller church in the village of Pogorzeliska, 40
kilometres south.
SILESIAN CHURCHES OF PEACE SILESIAN CHURCHES OF PEACE
In 1617, by which time it was clear that Matthias (1557-
1619), Holy Roman Emperor, would die having failed to
father a child, the two (Austrian and Spanish) branches
of the Hapsburg family, which had for centuries supplied
the Emperor, named Matthiass cousin and closest male
relative, Ferdinand II (1578-1637), as his successor. The
Spanish king, Phillip III, was keen for Ferdinand (a devout
Catholic, raised by Jesuits and vehemently opposed to the
Reformation) to reverse the policy of religious tolerance
and reconciliation that the Catholic yet relatively liberal
Matthias had pursued. During Matthiass reign as emperor
the Reformation had flourished in many parts of central
Europe, especially in Bohemia and Silesia, a result of his
policy of allowing individual dukedoms and principalities to
pursue religion on their own terms.
Though Matthias was not to die until 1619, Ferdinand
became de facto emperor at the end of 1617. One of his
first edicts was to suspend all protestant church building
on land the Catholic church claimed as its own (which in
reality meant almost all land in the Holy Roman Empire).
In retaliation, on May 23, 1618, a group of protestant
Bohemian noblemen threw Ferdinands representatives in
Bohemia out of a second floor window of Prague Castle.
They landed in horse manure, deliberately placed below
the window to soften the blow and harden the humiliation.
Known as the Defenestration of Prague, the event to all
intents and purposes started the Thirty Years War, with
Bohemia and Silesia with it declaring open revolt on
the Empire.
For the next three decades war raged across much of
Europe, embroiling - at one stage or another - every great
European power: France, Denmark, Sweden, England,
Spai n, the Netherl ands, Austri a, Bohemi a and the
Ottomans. All allied themselves with either the protestant
armies opposed to the emperor, or with the Empire itsel f.
Yet this was no simpl e reli gious war. Catholi c France,
for example, which was attacked from within by French
Hugenots (protestants) in the 1620s, was opposed to the
Holy Roman Empire and to Spain, its rival for hegemony in
southern Europe. Yet it was French intervention as well as
that of protestant Sweden that created the conditions for
the end of the war in the mid-1640s. Indeed, there had been
talk of peace since 1637, when Ferdinand III succeeded
hi s father as Emperor. Havi ng been a mi l i tary l eader
himsel f, Ferdinand III was appalled at the great human
cost of the war and on taking the throne had immediately
sought to make peace with France and Sweden. The war
was to carry on for another 11 years, however, by which
stage Sweden was the dominant protestant power in
Europe and the destruction of many parts of central and
northern Europe total. Even the peace negotiations lasted
an inordinately long time (almost a year), as the French
and Swedish delegates on one side, and the Hapsburgs
on the other, refused to meet face to face. The French
and Swedes were based at Osnabruck, the Hapsburgs at
Munster: 80 kilometres away; a team of couriers ferried
messages between the two. The war only ended with the
Peace of Westphalia, formalised on October 24, 1648, when
two separate yet complementary treaties: the Treaty of
Osnabruck and the Treaty of Munster were signed.
The terms of the peace are far too compl ex for our
purposes. In one ci ty gui de-fri endl y sentence, we can
say that there was a trade of f: what the Hapsburgs
lost in terri tory they gained in religious influence, and
vice-versa. The states that emerged from the war were
handed central control of religious matters: the brief age
of religious autonomy for local princes, dukes and bishops
Jawor Peace Church (Koci Pokoju w Ja-
worze) Park Pokoju 2, Jawor, tel. (+48) 76 870
51 45. Visiting Jawor, 80 kilometres west of Wrocaw,
is easier said than done. As with widnica it requires a
change of train at less than lovely Jaworzyna lska.
The church is no more than five minutes walk from Jawor
station, set in a small park (which until 1972 was the
churchs graveyard).
The church, the second to be buil t, was consecrated
on October 31, 1654. Though the exterior is almost
i denti cal to the church at G ogow, von Sabi sch
had l earnt from the earli er churchs collapse, and
desi gned the interior of the Jawor church to be far
more stabl e. He included raised gall eri es to create
more space for worshippers: there were ori gi nall y
two (today the second and fourth). The intermediate
gall eri es (today the first and third) were added in the
1680s. I t is these gall eri es - exquisi tel y decorated
wi th more than 140 scenes from both the New and
Ol d Testaments - that make Jawor such an incred-
i bl e si ght. Amazingl y, nobody knows for certain who
pai nted them. They have been credi ted by some
sources to Georg Fl egel, though as Fl egel apparentl y
died in Frankfurt in 1638, that is highl y unlikel y. More
probabl e is that one of Fl egels students - trading on
his patrons name - executed the paintings. Whoever
did them, they are worth hours of study, telling as they
do more or l ess the entire bi bl e story from Genesis
to Revelati ons. Look too for the baptismal font, a
gi ft from weal thy landowner Georg von Schweintz in
1656, and for the two-storey main al tarpi ece, added
in 1672 having been cast in Kamienna Gora. The two
spl endi d statues on ei ther si de of the al tar are of
Moses and St. John the Baptist.
I f youve come all this way, its also worth taking the
ti me to see the towns handsome Rynek too, the
centerpiece of which is the Town Hall, originally built in
the mid 14th century but rebuilt in 1617 and 1846. Its
sublime clock tower - to which the statues of various
local heroes seem to magically cling - survives intact
in its original form since being added in 1397 Q Open
10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00 or by prior arrange-
ment. Admission 8/4z.
Jawor Peace Church
Ksi Castle (Zamek Ksi) ul. Piastw lskich
1, Wabrzych, tel. (+48) 74 664 38 34, www.ksiaz.
walbrzych.pl. Legend has it that the original castle at
Ksi was built at the end of the 13th century by Bolko
I, Duke of widnica and Jawor, but it is best known as
the fiefdom of the Hochberg family, who purchased it in
1508. The family was to own it until 1941.
The castle we see today took shape during the 16th
century, when the central castle tower, walls and ramparts
were added to the original building of the ducal seat, which
was itself greatly extended. Though the Thirty Years War
saw the castle suffer invasion and conquest (first by Sax-
ons, then Swedes), it survived intact under the masterful
stewardship of young Hans Heinrich Hochberg, who at
wars end would redefine the castle, making it more of
a stately home than a fortress: much of the defensive
wall was taken down, and landscaped gardens replaced
ramparts. (It was the same Hans Heinrich who donated
2000 trees from the forests that surround the castle for
construction of the Church of Peace at widnica).
The transformation from Gothic to baroque however was
carried out by Conrad Maximilian Hochberg, during the early
part of the 18th century. Maximilian added the baroque
east wing (including the Maximilian Hall, the finest part of
the castle), erected the Summer Pavilion, remodelled the
main tower and had the gardens extended. The neoclassi-
cal western and northern wings were added in the 1910s,
much to to the whims of Maria Teresa Olivia Cornwalis-West,
or Daisy, as she was known. An English aristocrat (whose
brother would later be stepfather to Winston Churchill),
Daisy married Hans Heinrich XV Hochberg in 1891.
Debt was to be their - and the castles - undoing. Owing a
fortune in tax the German state seized much of the Hochberg
estate in 1937. The castle itself was taken in 1941, partly to
pay taxes, partly as punishment for the perceived treason
of Hans Heinrich and Daisys eldest children: one served
in the British army, the other the Polish. After the war the
castle was neglected and lay party in ruin for many years
until a limited renovation in 1956; full rebuilding work did
not commence until 1972. The latest period of restoration
was completed only in 2005. Much of the castle is open to
visitors, including the Maximilian Hall, the main tower, which
can be climbed (it offers amazing views of the grounds and
gardens), the Games Salon and the exquisite China Salon,
with its delightful murals. Best of all though is simply explor-
ing the multi-level gardens and terraces, amongst the finest
in Poland. If time allows, you should also visit the stables of
the castles famed stud, which puts on dressage shows and
rents horses for riding, as well as offering riding lessons. The
castle is 70km from Wrocaw, just past widnica. You need to
take a local train from widnica to Walbrzych, and bus No. 8
(towards Ksi) from there. The bus stops at the castle gates.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Admission
8-18z/8-13z. Guided tours 10-22z/10-17z per person.
Ksi Castle
Peace Church in Jawor, Bjrn Ehrlich, pl.wikipedia.org
78
79
Aftermath
For the survivors the end of the war unleashed a new enemy.
Its estimated that approximately two million German women
were raped by Red Army soldiers, and Breslau proved no
exception as marauding packs of drunk troops sought to
celebrate victory. With all hospitals destroyed, and the city
waterworks a pile of ruins, epidemics raged unchecked as
the city descended further into a hellish chaos. Historical
figures suggest that in total the battle for Breslau cost the
lives of 170,000 civilians, 6,000 German troops, and 7,000
Russian. 70% of the city lay in total ruin (about 75% of that
directly attributed to Nazi efforts to fortify the city), 10km of
sewers had been dynamited and nearly 70% of electricity cut
off. Of the 30,000 registered buildings in Wrocaw, 21,600
sustained damage, with an estimated 18 million cubic metres
of smashed rubble covering the city - the removal of this
war debris was to last until the 1960s. Although several
bunkers still lie scattered around the city (Park Zachodni, Park
Poudniowy, etc.) there is no official memorial as such for the
thousands of innocent victims of war. Two Soviet cemeter-
ies stand in the suburbs: one for officers on ul. Karkonoska,
and one for the rank and file on Skowronia Gra. Both find
themselves in state of disrepair, littered with broken glass
and graffiti. A German military cemetery and Garden of Peace
can be found 15 kilometres from Wrocaw, the final resting
place of approximately 18,000 soldiers.
Declared a part of Poland under the terms of the Yalta
Agreement the new rulers of Wrocaw arrived three days
after the peace deal. A new chapter in Wrocaws history
was about to be written. Poles from the east flocked to
repopulate Wrocaw, swayed by rumours of jobs, wealth
and undamaged townhouses. Over ten per cent of these
new settlers hailed from the eastern city of Lwow (now
Ukrainian Lvov) and this mass migration was to irrevocably
change Wrocaws demographic makeup. Others hailed
from impoverished villages, with their peasant mentality
frequently blamed for harming surviving city structures:
heaps of coal in a bathtub, hens in an expensive piano
and a pig kept on the fourth floor of an apartment were
not rare exceptions, so writes Beata Maciejewska in her
excellent book Wrocaw: History of the City. But farm
animals eating sofas were the least of the citys worries.
Wrocaw was on the brink of anarchy, with armed gangs of
Russians, Germans and Poles roaming the streets at night,
looting, shooting and boozing. Fortunes were made from
theft, with most goods ending up in the open air bazaar
that had sprung up on Pl. Grunwal dzki; Maciej ewskas
research reveals this was the source of everything from
railway wagons loaded with bricks, to priceless paintings
dating from the 17th century. Black market trading thrived,
and the money that was flying round led to a slew of bars
and ballrooms opening, many with colourful names: Kiosk
Pod Bomb (Kiosk under the Bomb) and Wstp Kolego na
Jednego (Drop in for one glass, mate) being a couple of note.
The end of the war also signalled an active campaign to de-
Germanize the city. Newspapers launched competitions to
eliminate all traces of Wrocaws German heritage with monu-
ments and street signs all falling victim to this iconoclastic
fury. By the end of 1945 as many as 300,000 Germans were
still in the city, many of whom had been temporarily relocated
from Pozna, and this was a pressing concern for the Polish
authorities. Forced transports began in July, and by January
1948 Wrocaw was officially declared to be free of German
habitants (there were, in fact, still 3,000 in the city, essentially
kept on to do jobs Poles were unqualified for).
Wrocaw was chosen to host the Exhibition of Recovered
Territories, a propaganda stunt aimed at highlighting the
gl ori es of Polish socialism. Attracting over 1.5 milli on
visitors the exhibition finally closed in 1948, and with that
investment and national interest in Wrocaw died. For the
next few years the city was to become a feeder city for
Warsaw, with priceless works of art ferried to the capital. In
1949 approximately 200,000 bricks were sent daily up to
Warsaw, with several undamaged buildings falling victim to
the demolition teams hellbent on rebuilding the Polish capital.
Wrocaws recovery was still a long way away.
Microcosm;
portrait of a Central European city
Norman Davies & Roger Moorehouse
2002,
ISBN 0-224-06243-3, approx. 100z.
A cracking book by Davies, the guru of Polish history
writing. Taking Wrocaw as an example of a typical Cen-
tral European city, Davies manages to place its local
history in the fascinating whirlwind of external events,
and Wrocaw has certainly had many of those. Starting
with a horrific description of the annihilation of Fortress
Breslau in the prologue, the well-illustrated book deals
with the city that changed ownership, name and popu-
lation quite a few times from prehistory, via Bohemia,
Habsburg, Prussia, Germany and Poland. If you read one
book about Wrocaw, make it this one.
Further Reading
Memorial in the Soviet Cemetery on Skowronia Gra
A. Webber
FESTUNG BRESLAU
Follow POLANDIYP on
One of the biggest events to ever rock Wrocaw, the epic
80 day siege of 1945 cost tens of thousands of lives, and
left the town a smouldering heap of ruins. One of the most
savage sieges in modern history, the Battle for Breslau
rates as one of the biggest human tragedies of WWII.
Prelude
Prior to WWII Wrocaw, or Breslau as it was then known, was
something of a model nazi city, with a staggering 200,000
of its citizens voting for Hitlers NSDAP party in the 1933
elections. From that moment on the Nazis cemented their
grip on the city launching a campaign of terror, and eventually
murder, against Jews and numerous other enemies of the
state. Synagogues were burnt to the ground on Kristallnacht,
November 9, 1938, and the guillotine at Kleczkowska prison
saw plenty of action; the decapitated bodies of political
prisoners donated to Wrocaws medical schools. Yet in spite
of this sinister background and strict rationing the denizens
of wartime Wrocaw fared better than their compatriots
elsewhere in the Reich. Out of range from Allied air raids
citizens were spared the aerial nightmare of British carpet
bombings, and the city came to be considered something of
a safe haven, its population swelling to over a million people
towards the end of the conflict.
But by the second hal f of 1944 the doomsday reality of
war started to dawn on the local population. Truckloads of
mangled German wounded flooded the hospitals, and with
the Red Army creeping closer the rumble of artillery could be
heard in the distance. On August 24 the city was declared a
closed stronghold, Festung Breslau, and the citizens braced
themselves for the inevitable bloodbath that was to come.
General Johann Krause was appointed commander, and set
about the daunting task of turning a picturebook city into a
fortress. Two defensive rings were constructed around the
city - with some fortifications 20km outside the centre - sup-
plies stockpiled and troops mobilised. A garrison of some
80,000 men was hurriedly raised in what was projected to
become the key defensive element on The Eastern Wall. In
reality however the troops were a chaotic rabble consisting
of Hitler Youth, WWI veterans, police officers and retreating
regiments. This mixed bag of men and boys were ludicrously
ill-equipped to face the full force of the looming Soviet fury.
As countdown to the impending siege began the governor
of the region, Gauleiter Karl Hanke, noted he only had two
tanks at his disposal, and weaponry that was either outdated
or captured from previous campaigns in Poland, Russia and
Yugoslavia. Even so, Hanke stubbornly refused to order an
evacuation of civilians until January 19, 1945. By this time
the majority of transport links had been smashed by Soviet
shelling, forcing many evacuees to leave the city on foot. With
temperatures sinking to -15 celsius an estimated 100,000
people froze to death during this ill-fated evacuation, with
other reports of children trampled to death in the chaos
that ensued at the train station. Wrocaw was in a state of
full-blown panic. Defeatism was punished by death and on
January 28 the deputy mayor, Dr Wolfgang Spielhagen, was
executed in the main square for this very reason. Execution
squads roamed the city, murdering pessimists, looters and
anyone found shirking their duty to the Fatherland. Finally,
following a rapid advance, the advancing Soviets encircled
the city on February 15, 1945. Wrocaws fate was sealed.
Siege
On February 16, 1945 months of waiting finally came to an
end. The Red Army launched a ferocious attack on the city,
throwing hundreds of tanks into the fray. But hopes for a quick
victory proved optimistic, and the battle soon turned into a
brutal slaughter, with both sides sustaining heavy casualties.
In the first three days alone the Soviets lost well over 70 tanks
as the conflict descended into savage street fighting. In his
excellent book, Microcosm, author Norman Davies suggests
that as a last resort measure chemical weapons produced in
Silesia were used to repel Soviet troops in the early stages of
combat, though this theory is largely open to debate. Civilians
and slave labour were called up to build fortifications, and vast
stretches of the city were demolished so bricks could be used
to strengthen defences. In a growing sign of desperation even
the University Library found itself stripped of thousands of
books, all destined for the barricades. In March the residential
area between the Szczytnicki and Grunwaldzki bridges was
levelled in order to build an improvised airstrip that would, in
theory, be Breslaus connection to the outside world. The enor-
mous project was a disaster. With rations only issued to those
working, civilians were forced to work under fierce fire and as
a result over 13,000 died when the Soviets shelled the area.
But worse was to come. April 1 saw the Soviets launch a new
offensive to seize the city. A heavy bombardment saw much of
the city engulfed in flames, and hostilities were resumed once
more. With the noose tightening, Nazi HQ relocated from the
bunker on Partisan Hill to the University Library, while fighting
continued to rage in the sewers and houses on the fringes of
the city. Even with the end in sight, the Nazis fought bitterly to
the last man, crushing an ill-fated uprising by the remaining
civilians. A full five days after the Battle for Berlin had ended,
Breslau finally capitulated on May 6, the peace deal signed at
the villa on ul. Rapackiego 14. The day before Karl Hanke, the
very man who had ordered the execution of anyone caught
fleeing the city, escaped the city in a plane apparently bound for
the Czech Republic. What became of him remains a mystery. The Soviet Cemetery on Skowronia Gra A. Webber
A bunker near Partisan Hill used temporarily as Nazi
headquarters during the Siege A. Webber
FESTUNG BRESLAU
80
LEISURE
81
LEISURE
spot. 60 more recreation horses are on hand, as well as a
year-round riding school, summer programs for children and
year-round hippotherapeutic classes are available, as well as
riding time with an instructor for 30-35z. Located 7km south
of Wrocaws city centre. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00.
Indoor Playgrounds
Kinderplaneta H-4, Pl. Grunwaldzki 22, tel. (+48) 71
328 18 22, www.kinderplaneta.pl. Kinderplaneta gives
you a place to deposit your little terrors and get some shop-
ping done without them pulling on your pantleg the entire
time and asking you to buy them everything in sight. Located
in Pasa Grunwaldzki and Magnolia Park (E-4, ul. Legnicka
58). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. 12-14z/hr.
Sala Zabaw Piotru E-4, ul. Subicka 18, tel. (+48)
71 792 71 01, www.salazabaw.com.pl. Located in the
TGG shopping centre, this is the perfect place to organise
a birthday party for little monsters, with plenty of places
for them to bounce up and down and ball pits to jump into.
Supervisors keep a watchful eye and organise arts and
crafts nearby. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.
Admission 12-18z.
Parks & Gardens
Wrocaw is an incredibly green city with an extraordinary
number of city centre recreation spaces in which to relax,
particularly along the banks of the Oder River and its tributar-
ies, the gardens of Ostrw Tumski, Sodowa and Bielarska
Islands and the charming Sowackiego Park behind the
Racawicka Panorama (D-3). Head further east from the
centre to witness Max Bergs hatbox Hala and the Japanese
and Zoological gardens included in Szczynicki Park (I-4/5,
see Sightseeing).
Botanical Garden (Ogrd Botaniczny) D-2, ul.
Sienkiewicza 23, tel. (+48) 71 322 59 57, www.biol.uni.
wroc.pl/obuwr. The Botanical Garden began as a scientific
pursuit, but has become a favorite retreat for Wroclaws
residents. The garden was built from 1811 to 1816 on the
riverbed where the Odra once flowed around Ostrow Tumski.
The grounds include cactus and palm houses, aquariums,
a plant shop and cafe, and a large pond with picturesque
bridges. On many days your peace and quiet could be marred
by noisy groups of schoolkids, but the beautiful manicured
landscapes include enough nooks and crannies that you
should have no trouble forgetting youre in the centre of
a big city. Highly recommended. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
Admission 10/5z.
Adrenalina Park Sokolniki, Kty Wrocawskie, tel.
(+48) 501 24 12 13, www.adrenalina-park.pl. Adrena-
lina Park offers all things sporting and outdoors. So, come
prepared to burn calories and get a tan, and be sure to dress
for physical activities and the weather. Activities include
climbing, biking, zip-lining, riding, trampolines, something
called eurobungee and more. Entry to the park is free and
you pay for each activity you choose with prices ranging
from 10 to 40 zloty. Mini-rafting is the only pricey outlier at
120 zloty. The park is very child friendly, but offers activities
for all ages and divisions go by height. Opening hours vary
by the month, but more or less correspond to opening in
the late morning and closing when the daylight fades just
before dusk. If you plan to do quite a few activities, it is best
to purchase a discount card before you begin that gives you
15% off of each one. A day-trip is the best plan of action for
Adrenalina Park considering its rural location and daylight
hours. Check out their website for directions and descrip-
tions. Q Open Fri, Sat and Sun only, 11:00 - 19:00. From
June open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. From July
open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Paintball Terytorium E-3, ul. czycka 20/8, tel.
(+48) 502 02 25 78, www.paintball-terytorium.pl.
Organising group paintball, quads and off-road rallies in the
dramatic and beautiful terrain south of Wrocaw, often fol-
lowed by campfire barbeques. In summer rafting, parachut-
ing, hang-gliding and ballooning are also available. Q Open
by prior arrangement. Paintball 40z per person/per game.
X-action E-3, ul. czycka 20/8, tel. (+48) 502 02
25 78, www.x-action.pl. The largest company in Lower
Silesia organising activities for groups and companies. Offers
include paintball, rafting, quads, climbing and paragliding
and more, with prices arranged by phone. Q Open by prior
arrangement.
Golf
Rycerski Klub Golfowy Krobielowice Paac Kro-
bielowice, Kty Wrocawskie, tel. (+48) 71 390 58 15,
www.golfclub.com.pl. This is a 9-hole course, so we guess
youll have to play it twice. For 65z you can stay all day, except
Friday, Saturday and Sunday when the price climbs to 130z.
Toya Golf & Country Club Wrocaw ul. Rakowa 5,
Kryniczno, tel. (+48) 71 388 76 00, www.pole.toyagolf.
pl. Only a few kilometres north of the city centre, Toya offers
an 18-hole Championship course, but youll need a handicap
certificate to putter around on it. If that fails, have a drive at
the 9-holer. The nice facilities here include practice grounds,
a pro shop and a classy restaurant. Prices vary by day of the
week, but for a ballpark figure (here we go mixing our sports
metaphors) the 9-holer is 60-100z, the Champer 120-240z.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Horse Riding
Par tyni ce Racecour se (Wr oc awski Tor
Wycigw Konnych Partynice) ul. Zwyciska 2
(Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 339 83 64, www.wtwk-partynice.
pl. Opened i n 1907, thi s beauti ful and hi stori c horse
racecourse hosts numerous competitions including hurdle-
jumping, steeplechases and competence trials for the 160
racehorses trained there full-time. With several racetracks
- including the unique grass flat track which ironically finishes
uphill - and picturesque buildings dating mostly from the turn
of the century, Partynice Racecourse and the surrounding
parks make for a lovely outing and are a popular family picnic
Bike Hire
Few things are more lovely than cycling around Wrocaw on
a sunny day, as the plethora of long-legged loose skirted
citizens doing just that will attest. Full of bridges, canals and
green riverfront, Wrocaw didnt just draw the nickname of
Polands Venice out of a hat at the tourist bureau. This is
one of Polands greenest cities with 180 kilometres of cycling
paths to back it up. Having a bike is not only a great way to
negate a night of hard living but also an ideal way to take in
the citys natural beauty and visit further out destinations like
the lovely Szczytnicki Park (I-4/5) to the east and further
south to Rackowiecki forest (I-6). Despite a recent action
by the city to designate specific parking space for bicycles
in front of many Wrocaw venues, actually renting a bike is
not nearly as easy as it should be. Hopefully our bike hire
listings below will help you get a set of wheels and some
wind in your hair, but if you know of other bike hire locations,
please let us know.
Cinnamon B-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 67, tel. (+48)
71 344 58 58, www.cinnamonhostel.com. Cinnamon
hostel is happy to rent you a bike when you leave your ID
or 100z as collateral. The cost is 7z an hour, but you may
as well just leave them 25z and take it for the entire day.
Zbigniew Krzykwa ul. Grabiszyska 50, tel. (+48) 71
341 15 81. Located just beyond E-5 on the IYP map, Mr.
Krzykwa has 10 bikes to let and its worth a recommendation
for the super deal of renting a bike for the entire weekend
for only 35z. For shorter rental periods prices are 10z for
the first hour, 5z for each additional hour and youll have to
make a 200z deposit. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 -
14:00. Closed Sun.
Boat Hire & River Cruises
Passenger Navigation (egluga Pasaerska) C-2,
Przysta Kardynalska, Bulwar Wostowica (Wyspa Pi-
asek), tel. (+48) 609 20 08 67, www.statekpasazerski.
pl. So elaborate are the Odra waterways around Wrocaws
Old Town that this outifit offers five different river routes
from four different harbours aboad four different vessels.
Hour-long, 75 or 40 minute panoramic river cruises are avail-
able leaving from the Bulwar Wostowica harbor on Piasek
Island (C-2), Bulwar Zwierzynieckiego (A-2, ul. Wrblewskiego
1), the Wrocaw Zoo (I-5) and Bulwar Dunikowskiego (C-2,
near Hala Targowa) for the reasonable rate of 13-18z. On
Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, hour-long evening cruises
also depart from Bulwar Wostowica at 20:00 and 21:00 with
entertainment, a bar and food available; tickets 22 zoty. All
vessels are also available for private hire with prices negoti-
ated by phone.QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
Szlak Gondoli D-3, Zatoka Gondoli, tel. (+48) 796 443
016, www.gondole.eu. One of the most clever things you
can do on a sunny day in Wrocaw is prepare a picnic, head
here and rent yourself a kayak (12z/hr), rowboat (20z/hr) or
motorboat (65z/hr) and this year they promise to be operat-
ing two Water Trams, named Magda and Tomek, through the
tiny canals of the old city.QOpen 10:00 until dusk.
Bowling & Billiards
Mira Bowling Center ul. Subicka 18, tel. (+48) 71
354 42 33, www.kregle.com. Located in the Szczepin
district, this entertainment centre features 10 bowling lanes,
4 billiards tables, a bar, gaming machines, darts and more.
Lying just off the IYP map west of E-3/4, get there via trams
3, 10, 12 and 22 or buses 122, 403 and 103; get off at the
Zachodnia stop. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00
- 02:00. One hour game 40-80z.
Sezam Presti B-3, ul. Kunicza 10, tel. (+48) 71
344 85 46, www.sezambilard.pl. 600m2 with 17 profes-
sional pool tables, one professional snooker table and a well
stocked bar. Open till the last guest. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. 16-25z/h.
Climbing
Eiger ul. Fabryczna 10 (Stare Miasto), tel. (+48) 71
35 650 35, www.eiger.pl. Climbing wall access 16-20z;
equipment rental 2-5z. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 22:00.
ZERWA ul. Przybyszewskiego 63 (Psie Pole), tel. (+48)
71 375 64 11, www.zerwa.pl. English language instruction
available. QOpen 18:30 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
Admission 18/15z.
Extreme Sports
Active Poland G-4, ul. Kociuszki 27, tel. (+48) 71 372
44 25, www.activepoland.com. Active Poland organises
group activities including go-karting, paintball, shooting,
rafting, hovercraft rides, kayaking, skydiving and naughtier
evenings out for the boys. Q Open 09:00-17:00, Sat, Sun
open on request.
WKS lsk Wrocaw ul.
Oporowska 62 (Fabr yc-
zna), tel. (+48) 71 722 39
36, www.slaskwroclaw.pl.
While the club is due to move
into the new stadium being
built in the city for Euro2012,
it is due to play the remaining
games of the 2010/11 season
at least at its ground on ul.
Oporowska 62, which has a capacity of 8,346. We rec-
ommend that you head for the covered stand (Trybuna
Kryta) where ticket prices are 35-50z.
Here are the upcoming home fixtures for Slask Wroclaw:
May 7 - Polonia Bytom
May 14 - GKS Bechatw
May 29 - Arka Gdynia
QTicket office open 13:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Tickets 35-60z. Family tickets 50-75z.
Watch Football
pl.wikipedia.org
WKS lsk Wrocaw
82
LEISURE
Japanese Garden (Ogrd Japoski) I - 4, ul.
Mickiewicza (Park Szczytnicki), tel. (+48) 71 328
66 11. Found in Park Szcztnicki, the Japanese Garden
is one of the few reminders of Wrocaws World Expo
held back in 1913. Originally the work of Count Fritz von
Hochberg and Mankichi Arai, the garden was fully restored
in 1996 - thanks in part to the generosity of the Japanese
Embassy in Warsaw. Waterfalls, trimmed shrubs and two
traditional pagodas now beauti fy this exquisite park. Get
there by hopping on trams 2, 4 or 10. QOpen 09:00 -
19:00. Admission 3/1,50 z.
Zoo I- 4, ul. Wrblewskiego 1-5, tel. (+48) 71 348 30
24, www.zoo.wroclaw.pl. Founded in 1865, Wrocaw
Zoo is both the biggest and oldest in Poland, and attracts
an estimated 500,000 visitors per annum. Briefly closed
after the post WWI economic crisis, and then again after
WWII destruction, the zoo is now home to about 600 spe-
cies and over 6,000 animals including lions, piranhas and
crocodiles. Of note, the elephant house is where three of
the noble beasts were buried following the slaughter of the
siege of Breslau. Although the animals appear well-fed and
reasonably happy, the zoo will do nothing to change any
opinions you might have about keeping animals in cages.
Get there from the centre via trams 1, 2, 4 or 10, by bus
numbers 145 or 146, or from April to September why not
go in style and take the ferry? Q Open 09:00-18:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00-19:00. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing.
Admission 25/15z.
Spa & Beauty
Monopol Spa & Wellness Centre A-4, ul. Heleny
Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772
37 50, www.likushoteleirestauracje.pl. Descend be-
neath the grandeur of the Monopol hotel to find one of the
citys premier spa and wellness centres including a gym,
counter-current swimming pool, fountain and jacuzzi, dry
sauna, aromatherapy steam bath and salt and iodine cave.
Massages, face and body treatments are also available. Q
Spa open 09:00-21:00; Wellness Centre 06:00-22:00, Sat,
Sun 08:00-21:00.
Solana Salt Cave ul. Grabiszyska 241 (Fabryczna),
tel. (+48) 71 784 30 45, www.solana.pl. A range of
health treatments based around the healing properties of
salt. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00
- 19:00. 12/9z per 45 min.
Spa Centre Wrocaw B- 4, ul. Teatralna 10-12, tel.
(+48) 71 341 09 43, www.spa.wroc.pl. This gorgeous
therapeutic complex in the very centre of Wrocaw includes
the original city municipal baths (see Swimming & Water
Parks), built between 1895-97 and today included on the
historical registry. Serviced by SPA Centre Wrocaw, the
complex offers access to three of the swimming pools,
a fitness centre, saunas, Jacuzzis, swimming courses,
full rehabilitation and water therapy services, and more.
Proceed directl y to the Customer Servi ce desk (Open
08:00-21:00, Sat 09:00-16:00. Closed Sun) or call to ar-
range a visit. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun.
Wel l ness Day Spa F - 6, ul . Bor owska 99
(Wrocaw Water Park), tel. (+48) 71 771 15 11,
www.parkwodny.wroc.pl. Thi s spa i n the fabul ous
Water Par k of fer s wel l ness t reat ment s and cer-
emoni es for men and women i ncl udi ng faci al s, body
peel s, a vari ety of massages (hot oi l , hot stones), a
Roman steam bath, Fi nni sh sauna, hydrotherapeuti c
pool s and much more. Saunas have extended hours
unti l 23: 00. Treatments range i n pri ce from 30-300z.
QOpen 10: 00 - 22: 00.
Swimming & Water Parks
Municipal Swimming Pools B- 4, ul. Teatralna
10-12, tel. (+48) 71 341 09 43, www.spa.wroc.pl.
This gorgeous compl ex in the very centre of Wrocaw
housed the ci ty muni cipal baths buil t between 1895-
97. Over one hundred years later, today i t maintains i ts
function as a therapeuti c swimming compl ex, and is one
of Wrocaws most important archi tectural monuments
from the 19th century (included on the National Registry
of Histori c Monuments). A beauty from the outsi de, the
interior ornamentation of the four pool compl ex includes
scul pted sandstone, stai ned-gl ass wi ndows, ar ti sti c
cerami c til es, pol ychromi c vaul ted ceilings, two-l evel ar-
cades and col onnades inspired by the anci ent hot baths
of Rome. Currentl y servi ced by SPA Centre Wrocaw,
full spa servi ces are also on hand (see Spa & Beauty) so
i f you plan on taking a dip or l ying down for a massage in
Wrocaw, youd be crazy not to do i t here. Club and school
reservations make it a bit tricky, but the website regularly
updates i ts posted reservation schedul e, whi ch youd be
wise to check before thonging down to the pool. QOpen
06:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Admission 9-13z.
Wr oc aw Water Par k (Wr oc awski Par k
Wodny) F- 6, ul. Borowska 99, tel. (+48) 71 771
15 11, www.parkwodny.wroc.pl. Compl eted in 2008,
Wrocaws water park is easil y one of the finest in the
country and makes for a ni ce respi te from the ci tys
confoundingl y compl ex history and hi gh-minded cul tural
attractions. And i ts probabl y the onl y place your kids will
tell their fri ends about from their trip to Wrocaw. Whil e
the main attractions are surel y the indoor and outdoor
recreati onal swi mmi ng pool s wi th thei r water sl i des
(including the most recent addi tion - a mul timedia sli de
invol ving li ghts and musi c to distract you as you plum-
met), wave machi nes, wil d ri ver and other wonders,
adul ts will appreciate the Wellness Day Spa (see Spa &
Beauty) with saunas, solaria, Jacuzzis, massage services
and more. Also on hand is a fi tness centre, restaurant,
cafe, bar and shop, making a trip to the Water Park a
full days outing, j ust south of the train station. From the
ci ty centre you can usuall y take trams 8, 22,15 or bus
numbers 145 or 146. Q Open 09:00-23:00. From June
22 open 08:00-23:00. Fi tness Centre and Wellness Day
Spa have independent hours. Admission 17-20/15-16z,
per hour; 40-44/31-36z for a day pass.
Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre
A-3, ul. Ruska 35, tel. (+48) 71
342 44 92, www.tajskimasaz.pl.
Authenti c Thai massages: improve
blood and limphatic circulation, re-
lease physical and mental tension,
strengthen the immune system, improve flexibility of
joints and remove toxins. Performed solely by highly
qualified Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in
Bangkok. The offer: classical Thai massage, herbal com-
presses, relaxing massage with essential oils, massage
for the physically active, feetnlegs reflexology, back &
shoulders & head massage etc. Receive a 10% discount
when you present this coupon. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
Massages 100-300z.
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SHOPPING
Fashion & Accessories
International designer clothing and fashion brands can most
easily be found in Wrocaws shopping malls, though youll find
some clothing brands along the pedestrian streets widnica and
Oawska. High quality Polish brands include Reserved, Vistula
and Tatuum. For a more local take on consumerism, do some loi-
tering around the massive clothing market on Plac Zieliskiego
(see markets) or visit one of the find secondhand clothing stores
marked Tania Odzie (Cheap Clothes) youll see scattered
about the city. These stores range in quality, from items sorted
in dishevelled bins to others on actual hangers; many are priced
by weight and all have that distinctive embalmed babcia smell.
Dziki Zachd E-4, Pl. Orlt Lwowskich 20b, tel. (+48)
71 717 13 00, www.dzikizachod.net. Amazing country
western clothing outfitter obscurely hidden in the basement
of an old train station. Gorgeous western shirts straight from
Colorado, cowboys boots and hats, belt buckles, badges and
more. Half authentic, half kitsch, but worth a visit. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Tru Trussardi C- 3, Pl. Dominikaski 3 (Galeria
Dominikaska), tel. (+48) 71 344 49 31, www.trus-
sardi.it. The modern Italian-led, urban fashion range is now
present in Poland. Elegant but casual clothing for men and
women designed for the modern day where it is typical to
move from business function to private meeting and back.
QOpen 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Ubieralnia E- 4, ul. Wodkowica 19, tel. (+48) 71
797 67 99, www.ubieralnia.pl. Located inside the divine
Czekoladziarnia coffee/chocolate cafe, this small shop sells
high-quality womens fashion and accessories by top young
local designers. Girlfriends love it. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Amber
Vodka isnt the only golden nectar popular in Poland. Poland is
renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who handsomely
shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of
jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby some Bal-
tic Gold and youve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse.
Galeria Art Amber B-3, ul. Szewska 68/1a, tel. (+48)
71 785 58 10, www.artamber.pl. Winners of numerous
trade fair awards, this amber workshop was established in
1949 and some of their pieces have even found their way
into the Gdask Amber Museum. A unique selection of silver
and Baltic jewellery is available. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat
11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
World of Amber B-3, Rynek - Ratusz 20/22, tel. (+48) 71
343 95 51, www.worldofamber.pl. For centuries amber drew
craftsmen, traders and thieves to Central Europe and the Baltic.
While the thieves may be long gone, amber and its enthusiasts
remain. Jewelry Schubert, located in the main block of shops on
the town-hall in the Rynek, has an impressive and reasonably
priced array of amber-themed jewellery and pieces. You neednt
break the bank when hunting for a keepsake or a small gift, but you
certainly could without breaking a sweat. For those less keen on
amber, they offer smaller selections of other precious stones and
metals and took a page out of the Bohemian book with a small
section of crystal-ware. If amber is on your Wroclaw to-do list,
Schubert will do nicely without killing your travel budget or draw-
ing you away from the heart of the city. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Antiques
Antiques are a popular, comparably affordable commodity in
Poland and youll find no shortage of antiquated oddities in
Wrocaw that you can no doubt triple the price of and resell
on eBay. As you walk about town keep you eyes peeled
for signage with the inscriptions Antyki, Antykwariat and
Starocie ( junk); ul. Kiebanicza (A-3) is a good place to
start. Bear in mind that if you intend to take art produced
before 1945 out of the country, youll have to get some pa-
pers in order first. These can typically be provided up front
by proper dealers, but make sure you check. Happy hunting.
Books & Press, Music & Films
Columbus B-3, ul. Kunicza 57-58, tel. (+48) 71 341
80 67, www.columbus.com.pl. A good place to pick up the
foreign and national press and foreign language textbooks.
Columbus is happy to order whatever they dont have in stock
or do it yourself via their website. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat
11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Empik Megastore B-3, Rynek 50, tel. (+48) 71 343
39 72, www.empik.com. This massive store selling books,
music, movies, video games, coffee, greeting cards and more,
also has the best selection of foreign papers and magazines
in town, though you can expect to pay a hefty mark-up for the
privelege. Dictionaries, phrase books, maps and a limited
English language fiction section are also inside. Other loca-
tions in Magnolia Park, Pasa Grunwaldzki and Renoma (see
Shopping Malls). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
Falanster E-4, ul. w. Antoniego 23, tel. (+48) 609
66 13 30, www.falanster.pl. In addition to serving as
a cafe, gallery and socially conscious free trade shop, this
veritable cultural centre is also a bookstore with an expand-
ing English-language section thanks to a recent cooperation
with Krakws legendary Massolit bookstore. Check it out.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 14:00 - 20:00.
Retail opportunities have come a long way since the days
of queueing around the corner for the off-chance of buying
a crust of bread. Today Wrocaws shopfronts are stocked
with everything youd expect to find in a cosmopolitan
metropolis, with bountiful pedestrian shopping opportuni-
ties around the market square, ulica widnicka and ulica
Oawska. Odrzaska, Kiebanicza and Mikoaja streets
are home to upmarket boutiques and galleries, Jatki (A-2) is
known for its row of artisan galleries, and souvenir hunters
will find plenty in the small stores hidden along the avenues
underneath the Town Hall. For familiar international labels and
big brands, look no further than one of Wrocaws glistening
new shopping malls; there are several comfortably within
the city centre, while Magnolia Park is Wrocaws largest
consumer temple, a short cab ride away. Lastly, dont miss
visiting Hala Targowa for a truly Polish cultural experience
while catching a bargain.
Alcohol
You may have noticed that here in PL, its a bit of a drinking
culture; more of a national pastime, really, compared to the
countrys success at football. Indeed, nothing says Ive been
to Poland like a suitcase of vodka (a new bride being the
second hottest commodity). The Poles have been distilling
and draining vodka since the early Middle Ages, and Poland
can make a legitimate claim as the spirits primordial home-
land. As such, you should put it at the top of your souvenir
list, even if its not to your taste. Belvedere and Chopin
are the elite brands youll find in fancy gift sets, but dont
miss ubrwka (bison grass vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey
vodka), odkowa (herbal stomach liqueur) and Goldwas-
ser with its signature gold flakes.
Centrum Wina A-3, ul. Rzenicza 2/3, tel. (+48) 71
343 89 88, www.centrumwina.com.pl. More than 1,500
wines and alcohols from around the world available and
duly priced from 25 to 9000z! Also in Pasa Grunwaldzki
(H-4, Pl. Grunwaldzki 22) and Arkady Wrocawskie (E-6,
ul. Powstacw lskich 2-4). QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Vinoteka 13 A-4, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol Hotel),
tel. (+48) 71 772 36 40, www.vinoteka13.pl. Featuring an
impressive collection of wine and champagne with an Italian
influence, prices are particularly attractive due to the fact that
the wines are imported directly from the vineyards. Serving
the Monopol restaurant, the quality has been recognised by
the inclusion of all Likus restaurants on the Wine Spectators
top 1000 restaurants on account of the wine list they offer,
but you can skip the food tab by visiting this shop and bar in
the same building. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Winnica Adoria ul. urawia 33, Zachowice, tel. (+48)
605 04 24 33, www.winnicaadoria.pl. When thinking of
wines made in Poland it can be difficult to imagine well, that
they actually come from Poland. Winnica Adoria wines come
directly from a Polish vineyard about 20 kilometres south of
the city. You can, of course, visit their winery in person and try
some of their specialties on site. Keep in mind, however, that
youll need to drive back to the city at some point and - just
like everywhere else - drinking and driving is a deadly seri-
ous matter in Poland. American owned and run since 2005,
Adoria is still too young to have many older vintage wines,
but they do make Riesling, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Bacchus
and others. Recent years range from 60 to 90 zloty per bottle
and can be bought in person or online. Visit their website if
youd like to make an excursion to Polish wine country and
see the vineyard for yourself. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00. Closed
Sun. Please confirm your visit by telephone.
Biaystok, Bydgoszcz, Czstochowa, Gdask, Gdynia, Katowice, Krakw,
Pozna, Szczecin, Warszawa, Wrocaw
ProducedanddistributedbyT.R.S. EvolutionSpa- Ph. +39059421511- Polska: TRSPolskaSp. zo.o., Ph. 0226366016- www.trussardi.com
Galleries
For artisan galleries in Wrocaw, head straight to ul. Jatki (A-2).
In addition to being Wrocaws oldest, most narrow, most charm-
ing and possibly most touristy street, this row of former medieval
butcher stalls is today home exclusively to artist studios and
galleries, with the exception of one small art supply shop. For
non-commercial gallery listings, visit our Culture section.
Markets
Hala Targowa C-2, ul. Piaskowa 17, tel. (+48) 71
344 27 31. Crying out for a facelift and a thorough renova-
tion, the faded glory that is Wroclaws main market, Hala
Targowa, is nevertheless a great place to come and watch
real Wroclawski living real lives. Find top quality fruit and
vegetables on the ground floor, alongside a wide selection
of local cheese, salami and hams. Upstairs is a bewildering
array of bric-a-brac, nylon underwear and plastic kitchen
utensils, and a set of surprisingly clean and modern public
toilets. To your right as you enter the market is one of the
citys best little no-name, no-fuss pierogi bars. Essential.
Zieliskiego Market E-5, Plac Zieliskiego. Not far from
the train station youll find the largest market in Wrocaw (and
one of its biggest eyesores) - the focus being on clothing. The hell
with soulless shopping malls, this is the Polish way to get ready
for the season. The range of choices is enormous, from premium
suits and high-end high heels to knock-off handbags and dodgy
underwear stretched and displayed over steering wheels. And
the prices are lower than anywhere so ostentatious as to have
a proper roof. Wearable goods aside, within these over 300
shacks and tents youll also find produce and fruit stands, pet
food, plastic flowers, flashlights, incense and other essentials.
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Souvenirs & Gifts
Its only natural to want to have a reminder of your visit to Po-
land and leave with some tangible evidence to show all those
folks back home who have no idea what or where the country
is. And if you plan on staying with a Polish family while in the
country, its common practice to arrive with a gift. Wrocaw
being an established tourist destination, youll find souvenir
stalls selling chintzy rubbish all around the Old Town; while
thats all well and good, most of this merchandise probably
wasnt made in Poland, just like most of the Chinese food in
Poland isnt prepared by the Chinese. Here, and throughout
this section, weve made an attempt to identify unique shops
in Wrocaw that sell local or Polish products so we can all feel
good about where youre spending your zoty.
Cepelia B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 55, tel. (+48) 71 780
78 77, www.cepelia.pl. For over 55 years, this well -
recognised company has been promoting and preserving
Polish folk art and handicrafts with a wide selection of
ceramics, wood carvings, knitwork, wickery and much more.
A lot of its touristy rubbish, but weve always fancied the
folk costumes (our birthdays coming up). Also on (B-2),
Pl. Biskupa Nankiera 5/6/7. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Ceramika Bolesawiecka C-1, ul. Henryka Sienkie-
wicza 10, tel. (+48) 71 372 03 12, www.ceramicbo-
leslawiec.com.pl. A fine selection of Polands universally
liked Bolesawiec folk ceramics on Ostrw Tumski. If youre
searching for a gift for someone back home, heres the an-
swer. The shop attendants speak English and German and
you can even pay by card. Mission accomplished. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Galeria Qubeq A-3, Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 71 344 43
70, www.bbd.pl. If you arent familiar with the universally-
loved Bolesawiec brand of hand-painted folk ceramic, which
hails from a little town not far to the west of Wrocaw, then
make sure you drop into this shop on the market square
and educate yoursel f. One of the best collections weve
seen anywhere and a foolproof gift-giving plan for anyone.
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Mydlarnia Wrocawska B- 3, ul. Wita Stwosza
19/20, tel. (+48) 71 343 66 15, www.mydlarnia.wroc.
pl. Specialising in perfumed soap and wax products, here
youll find a range of gi fts including household decorations,
paper with pressed flowers, ceramics, natural cosmetics,
candles, soaps and other fragrant ephemera probabl y
well-suited for the potential mother-in-law whose home
your on your way to, or the strange auntie who insisted you
bring her something back from Poland. Also at the arcades
of ul. Ruska 41/42 (E-4). QOpen 10:30 - 19:30, Sat 11:00
- 17:00. Closed Sun.
Non-EU resi dents can cl ai m VAT
refunds on purchases made in shops
bearing the Global Blue logo. The
only condition is a minimum outlay
of 200z on your part on the item
purchased. Claim your Tax Refund
Cheque, have it stamped at customs
before claiming your money back at
your nearest Global Blue Customer
Service. For full details check www.global-blue.com.
TAX FREE SHOPPING - GLOBAL BLUE
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Rupieciarnia. sklep rcznie robiony A-2, ul.
Odrzaska 17c, tel. (+48) 883 11 75 15, www.rupie-
ciarnia.com.pl. Sklep Rcznie Robiony literally translates
as shop for handmade things, so you wont be surprised
to hear that this charming little store and workshop sells
mainly handicrafts including accessories, broaches, sea-
sonal decorations, jewellery and scrapbook-ing materials.
Whats-more many of the items are made in-house by the
two enthusiastic artistic proprietors. A great place for extra
special gifts and unusual souvenirs. Q Open 12:30-18:00,
Mon 12:30-19:00. From June open 10:00-18:00, Mon
10:00-19:00. Closed every second and fourth Saturdays of
the month and every Sunday.
Sklep Kibica B- 3, Pl. Nowy Targ 24, tel. (+48) 71
323 08 74, www.sklepkibica.wroclaw.pl. This large
shop sells a vari ety of merchandise supporting the l o-
cal football si de, lsk Wrocaw (WKS Wrocaw). Whil e
i ts all well and good to want to support the l ocal lads,
be aware that donning a WKS Wrocaw j ersey is akin to
painting a gang si gn on your chest and may draw you
into confrontation wi th supporters of ri val clubs; thats
almost a guarantee when theres a home game. Polish
football hooli ganism is no j oke; i f you need an exampl e,
an organised football riot in Wrocaw in 2003 ended in
one death and countl ess inj uri es from kni fe wounds. So
you mi ght want to keep this one in the sui tcase until i ts
safe. Or pack some heat. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 15:00. Cl osed Sun.
Tourist Information Shop A-3, Rynek 14, tel. (+48)
71 344 31 11, www.wroclaw-info.pl. Dont let the gnome
outside the front door fool you, the Tourist Information Center
shop on the Rynek is neither old nor weathered. The gift shop
seems to offer almost any trinket, souvenir, or local insignia
known to man. Their bottomless collection includes cards,
books (guides and non-fiction), T-shirts, bookmarks, mugs
(coffee and beer), local flyers, piggy-banks, glasses (large
and shot-sized), tea-cups, magnets, coasters, tote-bags,
flags (Polish and EU), key-chains, buttons and trinkets galore.
And, of course, Gnome-hunters will not leave disappointed. If
you can write Wrocaw, Poland, or Gnome on it; theyve
got it. And youll likely have your choice of colour and size.
Theres also a second point at ul. Sukiennice 12 (A-3, open
11:00-19:00). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Speciality shops
Old Havana Cigars & Accessories F-5, ul. widnicka
40 (Renoma), tel. (+48) 71 356 70 38, www.oldhavana.
pl. In the popular Renoma shopping center a few blocks south
of the Rynek you will find the small but well-stocked shop of
Old Havana. Havana is new, but ambitious and claims to have
the most diverse collection of cigars in the area. The prices
for their extensive stock of Cuban cigars range from the frugal
(but still flavorful) Jose. L. Piedra cigar (8 zloty) to the renowned
top of the shelf Cohiba Behike (164 zloty for a single cigar).
Despite the name the collection is not limited to Cuba, and
includes a large selection from Honduras, Nicaragua and the
Dominican Republic. The shop includes a humidity-controlled
room carefully maintaining the exact amount of moisture in
the air. Just as they claim, if youre looking for the newest and
broadest cigar selection in Wroclaw, Old Havana should be
your destination. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Specialty Foods
Cantina B-2, ul. Noownicza 4, tel. (+48) 71 324 17 96,
www.cantina.wroclaw.pl. Hunting for Italian specialties
and fine wines may prove difficult (and perhaps a bit fool-
hardy) in the middle of Silesia, but Cantina offers a lifeline to
Italy. For those who hunger for the renowned pastas, meats,
cheeses, wines and other delicacies of Italy, but prefer to take
it with them, Cantina offers a selection of the specialties of
Italian cuisine and an enormous collection of Italian wines.
QOpen 13:00 - 23:00.
Delikatesy 13 A-4, ul. H. Modrzejewskiej 2, tel. (+48)
71 772 36 38, www.delikatesy13.pl. Located in the Likus
Concept Store, this Italian delicatessen offers a wide range
of high-quality edible goods including over 100 varieties of
Italian cheese and meats, parma ham, truffles, cooking oils
and balsamic vinagrettes, as well as delicious locally-made
preservative free honeys and jams. Pies, pastries and cakes
are also made daily. With the sheer volume of outstanding
goods, Delikatessy 13 is probably one of the most dangerous
places you can take your wallet when youre hungry. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Kuchnie wiata E-4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia Park),
tel. (+48) 71 338 54 28, www.kuchnieswiata.com.pl.
This world kitchen sells all the comfort foods you need to
tackle a bout of homesickness, as well as other exotic stuff
you likely have no idea what to do with. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Przyprawy wiata B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 14, tel. (+48)
71 372 45 50, www.debskiisyn.stronypkt.pl. This small
family-run natural foods store sells all manner of ethnic food
products, natural remedies, bulk spices and grains, herbal
extracts, teas, honeys and a whole lot more. Theres also a
bookshop (Polish only) with page-turners on a range of crunchy,
new age topics from natural therapy to feng shui, astrology to
pilates. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Sweets
Czekoladziarnia E-4, ul. Wodkowica 19, tel. (+48)
717 97 57 16, www.czekoladziarnia.wroclaw.pl. This
rich cafe serves a variety of desserts, fondues and chocolate
drinks youll have to eat with a spoon. Splash out on the
chocolate fountain. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
Pijalnia Czekolady E-4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia
Park), tel. (+48) 713 38 52 47, www.wedelpijalnie.pl.
This cafe, or chocolate lounge as they call it, from Polands
oldest chocolate brand serves a vast menu of rich chocolate
drinks, handmade pralines and desserts in addition to selling
the gamut of Wedels other sweet tooth satisfiers. A lesson in
the versatility of chocolate. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Tea & Coffee
Afryka A-3, ul. Kotlarska 32, tel. (+48) 71 341 77 32,
www.afrykacoffee.pl. This favoured cafe is a great place
wittle away a day, but if you prefer the environs of your own
home you can buy and brew their premium bulk bean coffee
and teas on your own. The small shop counter also sells kettles,
cups, flatware and other coffee accessories. Also at (A-3), ul.
Kiebanicza 24. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00.
Demmers Teahouse E-4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia
Park), tel. (+48) 71 338 51 62, www.tea.pl. If youre a
fan of these Vienna-based exclusive teasmiths, unfortunately
youll have to go out to the Magnolia shopping mall - not an
environment we associate with the atmosphere created
by a fine cuppa, but what can you do? In addition to a vast
selection of teas to take home, here youll also find elegant
gift sets, sugars, candies, English marmalades and other
accessories. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
88
SHOPPING
89
DIRECTORY
Denmark A-3, Rynek 7, tel. (+48) 71 372 39 50.
France A-3, Rynek 58/300, tel. (+48) 71 341 02 80.
Germany C-4, ul. Podwale 76, tel. (+48) 71 377 27
00, www.breslau.diplo.de.
Netherlands B-5, ul. Kotaja 21, tel. (+48) 691 09
13 44, www.nlembassy.pl.
Slovakia ul. Armii Ludowej 21 (Psie Pole), tel. (+48)
71 785 03 69, www.konsulat.slowacji.wroclaw.pl.
Sweden ul. Mydlana 2 (Psie Pole), tel. (+48) 71 302
13 00.
United Kingdom B-3, ul. Oawska 2, tel. (+48) 71 344
89 61, www.ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk.
Dentists
Dentalmed ul. Kamieskiego 142 (Karowice), tel.
(+48) 71 327 63 13, www.dental-med.com.pl.
Prestige Dent B-3, ul. Oawska 9, tel. (+48) 663 67
77 77, www.prestigedent.com.pl.
Royal Dent A-3, ul. Leszczyskiego 5, tel. (+48) 71
344 11 29, www.royaldent.pl.
Laundry & Dry Cleaning
Foka ul. ubrza 18, tel. (+48) 71 355 01 76.
Fresh & Clean I-3, ul. Bujwida 25, tel. (+48) 696 67
61 99, www.pralnia-wroclaw.pl.
Pralnia Samoobsugowa D-1, ul. Sienkiewicza 52,
tel. (+48) 518 67 11 28, www.washsalon.pl.
Places of Worship
Muslim Culture Centre (Muzumaskie Cen-
trum Kulturalno-Owiatowe) ul. Kasprowicza 24,
(Karowice), tel. (+48) 71 325 53 20, www.islam.net.pl.
Roman Catholic Parish of St. Charles Boromeo
ul. Krucza 58, tel. (+48) 71 361 52 65. English language
masses every Sunday at 16:00 in St. Karol Boromeusz
Church (ul. Krucza 58).
Private Clinics
Endo-Med Pl. Solidarnoci 1/3/5, tel. (+48) 71 781
01 28, www.endomed.com.pl.
Lux- Med (Lux- Med Centrum Medyczne) E- 4,
ul. Legnicka 51/53, tel. (+48) 22 332 28 88, www.
luxmed.pl.
Medicover E-5, ul. Grabiszyska 165, tel. (+48) 500
90 05 00, www.medicover.com. As long-term contract
clinic, Medicover doesnt offer single treatments. Hope you
dont end up here (not that the people here arent lovely, but
you know what we mean).
Relocation Companies
Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group Sp zoo ul.
Czesawa Klimasa 46 (room 213), tel. (+48) 71 734
57 35, www.corstjens.com. Worldwide removal services,
excellent storage facilities and relocations to and within
Europe. Office and local moves also handled.
Universal Express Relocations E-4/5, ul. Ruska
23/3, tel. (+48) 71 357 17 87, www.uer.pl. International
moving company (household goods, personal effects, office
equipment).
Translators & Interpreters
Express E-5, ul. Pisudskiego 92, tel. (+48) 71 344 76
65, www.biuro.tlumaczy.pl. Translates to and from most
of European languages.
Changing money is increasingly less fretful to do, but
as with most international destinations it is still worth
keeping checking rates particularly at entry points such
as airports or in major tourist areas. We check rates of
a selection of money exchange offices (kantors) every
two months. Here were their buying rates (how many
zloty you would get for one unit of foreign currency) for
the 29.04.11 compared to the following National Bank
of Poland (NBP) published rates for that morning of Euro
1 = 3.9376z, US$1 = 2.6501z, GBP 1 = 4.4215z.
Feldman-Kantor ul. Skaryskiego 36, (Wrocaw
Nicolaus Copernicus Airport), tel. (+48) 71 358
12 09.
1 Euro = 3.93z,
1 Dollar = 2.64z,
1 Pound = 4.39z,
No commission.
Gant E-4, ul. Legnicka 58, (Magnolia Park), tel.
(+48) 71 338 52 60, www.gant.com.pl.
1 Euro = 3.84z,
1 Dollar = 2.59z,
1 Pound = 4.33z,
No commission.
Kantor Korona A-4, ul. widnicka 34, tel. (+48)
71 343 49 16.
1 Euro = 3.84z,
1 Dollar = 2.60z,
1 Pound = 4.33z,
No commission.
Currency Exchange
Whether a traveller or an expat our directory has many
useful contacts for you. Remember to email us if you find
any of our contacts particularly helpful or, for that matter,
unhelpful. We also welcome new additions.
24hr Pharmacies
Katedralna D-1, ul. Sienkiewicza 54/56, tel. (+48) 71
322 73 15. A good choice if youre north of the old town by
the Cathedral and the Botanical Garden.
Pod Lwami A-2, Pl. Jana Pawa II 7, tel. (+48) 71 343
67 24. West of Old Town near the Archeological Museum.
Puaska G-5, ul. Puaskiego 49a, tel. (+48) 71 789 91
38, www.herbavit.com.pl.
Business Associations
British Polish Chamber of Commerce E-4, ul. Leg-
nicka 51-53, tel. (+48) 71 733 13 75, www.bpcc.org.pl.
Chamber of Handicraft (Izba Rzemielnicza)
A-3, Pl. Solny 13, tel. (+48) 71 344 86 91, www.izba.
wroc.pl.
Lower Si l esi an Chamber of Commer ce
(Dolnolska Izba Gospodarcza) A-4, ul. widnicka
39, tel. (+48) 71 344 78 25, www.dig.wroc.pl.
Western Chamber of Commerce (Zachodnia Izba
Gospodarcza) A-3, ul. Ofiar Owicimskich 41/43,
tel. (+48) 71 795 06 56, www.zig.pl.
Consulates & Embassies
Austria ul. Buska 9/5 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 361
75 60, www.aussenministerium.at.
Shopping Malls
Arkady Wrocawskie E-6, ul. Powstacw lskich
2- 4, tel. (+48) 71 776 11 22, www.arkadywro-
clawskie.pl. One of Wrocaws most centrall y located
shopping malls, find Arkady Wrocawskie tucked not far
behind the train station. With 110 stores across 30,000
square metres, brand highlights of this upscale retail centre
include Puma, Adidas, Benetton, H&M, M&S, New Yorker,
Alma (the countrys upscale grocer) and Traffic Club (for
foreign press). Other diversions you can seek out are the
restaurants and cafes, Multikino cinema, cushy childrens
playpen, large original sculpture by Salvador Dali, and 2
storey aquarium, which theyre really quite proud of and had
to bring a powerful li ft all the way from faraway Szczecin
just to install: holding 120 litres of water, the enormous
tank is under tremendous pressure held back by glass
12cms thick; home to dozens of colourful fish and coral, the
maintenance of the tank requires constant attention so the
least you could do is take a look at it while between trying
on clothes you cant afford. Within walking distance most
places and easily accessed by tram, once youre inside
Arkady Wrocawskie, good luck making your way out again.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Galeria Dominikaska C- 3, Pl. Dominikaski 3,
tel. (+48) 71 344 95 17, www.galeria- dominikan-
ska.pl. Wrocaws most accessi bl e and wel l -known
retai l monol i th, Gal eri a Domi ni kaska i s a mere fi ve
mi nutes east of the Rynek, meani ng youre goi ng to
cross paths wi th i t regardl ess and youre l i kel y to get
sucked i n. 100 stores over three fl oors and don t ask
us to l i st them here. Youre al ready i nsi de, youre on
an escal ator, youre maki ng eyes wi th a mannequi n,
you want to touch everythi ng, taste i t, try i t on. Put the
gui de back i n your pocket, take the wal l et out. QOpen
09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Likus Concept Store A-4, ul. widnicka 33 (Monopol
Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 36 34, www.likusconcept-
store.pl. Already an established fixture in Krakw and
Warsaw, The Likus Concept Store has now arrived in Wrocaw
with its carefully chosen brands and personalised range of
shops. Located inside the historic Monopol Hotel, Wrocaws
LCS carries on their signature mix of modern design incor-
porating restored architectural details to create one of the
most pleasant and refreshing retail spaces in town. On hand
are two upscale boutiques (Diesel and LFC), a choice Ital-
ian delicatessen, wine bar, bar and rooftop restaurant with
panoramic views over the Old Town. Not your typical shopping
mall at all. Q Opening hours vary by store.
Magnolia Park E-4, ul. Legnicka 58, tel. (+48) 71
338 44 66, www.magnoliapark.pl. Opened in October
2007, Magnolia Park can be easily interpreted as a symbol of
Wrocaws rocket blast into the 21st century. Situated close
to the city centre and covering over 240,000 m2 Wrocaws
biggest retail complex features designer stores Peek &
Cloppenburg, Tatuum, Camaieau, EMPiK, iSpot (the Apple
computers shop) and electronics giant Saturn. Magnolia is
serviced by nine tram and bus routes with parking for 2,800
vehicles. Reasons to visit go beyond the sheer scale of retail
opportunities; catering to the hungry masses are names like
Burger King, American Bar&Grill and Sphinx to name but
a few. Over 40,000 m2 has been set aside for recreation
alone and aside from the requisite multiplex cinema visi-
tors will find tennis courts, cycle paths, playground, art and
cultural events and an 800 metre lake with fountains as well
as plenty of parkland and greenery and a dramatic piazza.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Pasa Grunwaldzki H- 4, Pl. Grunwaldzki 22, tel.
(+48) 71 335 87 22, www.pasazgrunwaldzki.pl. Make
a pilgrimage east of Ostrw Tumskis cathedral island and
youll find another place of worship - this modern retail temple
with more than 200 shops over four floors. Blown to pieces
during WWII, Pasa Grunwaldski has revitalised what was
once one of Wrocaws most affluent areas by pouring all
the money into one giant funnel. Were sure you can buy a
vaccuum as well as anything else you can think of. Retail roll
call: Big Star, Cartoon Planet, Ecco, Empik, H&M, Intimissimi,
Levis, Pierre Cardin, Reserved, Zara, here. Multiplex cinema,
here. Food court, now presiding. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00.
Renoma F-5, ul. widnicka 40, tel. (+48) 71 772 58
20, www.renoma-wroclaw.pl. One of the largest pre-war
department stores in Europe - and the only one of its kind
remaining - this magnificent consumer showpiece has been
recently restored and modernised for todays retail market.
The unique 1930s facade of ceramic tiles and gilded heads
has been returned to its former glory while inside youll find
todays most cutting-edge brands - TK Maxx, New Look, River
Island, BGN, Empik, Alma, Zara - and a third floor restaurant
with fine views of the Old Town. In addition to the original
buildings refurbishment, a new modern wing has been added
on Plac Czysty. Easily outclassing the citys other shopping
malls and smack in the centre, if it was in our disposition to
call a shopping mall a must-see attraction, this would fit the
bill. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
The best places to eat, drink, see, sleep
and experience could be metres away.
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Wrocaw In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com May - August 2011 wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Akira Bed & Breakfast 26
Ale Hostel 30
Apartamenty Przyjazne
Lokum 28
Art Hotel 22
Avantgarde 30
Baza 15 30
Best Western Prima 23
Boogie 30
Boogie Hostel Deluxe 30
Bugatti 24
Campanile 24
Centrum Dikul 24
Cilantro Bed & Breakfast
26
Cinnamon 30
Diament 24
Dom Turystyczny 'TRIO' 26
Duet 24
Dwr Polski 24
Etap Hotel Wrocaw
Stadion 26
Europeum 24
Exclusive Apartments 28
Hotel Jana Pawa II 24
HP Park Plaza 23
Jester 24
Leoapart 29
Mercure Panorama 23
Mleczarnia 31
Monopol (Hotele Likus) 21
Nathan's Villa 31
Novotel 24
Orbis Wrocaw 23
Patio 26
Platinum Palace 22
Podrnik 26
Polonia 26
PURO Hotel Wrocaw 23
Quality Hotel Wrocaw 26
Qubus Hotel Wrocaw 23
Radisson Blu 22
Rezydent 26
Savoy 28
Scandic Wrocaw 24
Silfor Premium Europejski
26
Silver Apartments 29
Sofitel Wrocaw Old Town
22
The Granary La Suite Hotel
Wroclaw City Center 22
Tumski 26
U Szermierzy 28
Vincent 29
Wrocaw Capital
Apartments 29
Wrocaw City Apartments
29
Zauek 26
Abrams' Tower 44
Akropol 33
Akropolis 33
Alladin's 45
Amalfi 40
America Bar&Grill 32
Aquarelle 34
Armine 32
Art Restauracja i
Kawiarnia 45
Bazylia 36
Bernard 35
Bierhalle 35
Brasserie 27 35
Braziliana 32
Burger King 36
Cantina 40
Capri Trattoria Pizzeria 41
Casus 35
Cegielnia 35
Cesarsko-Krlewska 36
Cesarz 33
Cynamon 36
Da Andrea 41
Darea 42
Dominikaska 36
Dwr Polski 46
Fish Restaurant 49
Galicja 32
Gospoda Wrocawska 46
Greco 34
Green Way 49
GreenHouse 36
Gruziskie Chaczapuri 33
Chatka Przy Jatkach 45
il Gusto 41
Jacek i Agatka 48
JaDka 46
Karczma Lwowska 46
Karczma Myska 46
Karczma Piastw 46
KFC 36
Kuchnia 36
Kuchnia Marche 36
Kurna Chata 46
Kunia 47
Kyoto Sushi Bar &
Japanese Restaurant 42
La Scala 41
Le Bistrot Parisien 33
Lothus 49
Maria Magdalena 38
Marina 38
Masala Grill & Bar 34
McDonald's 36
Mexico Bar 44
Mi 48
Misz Masz 48
Mosaiq Restaurant & Wine
Lounge 38
Multifood STP 47
Novocaina 41
OdNova 38
Okrasa 38
Pastelowa 38
Pieprz i Wanilia 39
Piramida 45
Piwnica widnicka 47
Pizza Hut 36
Planet Sushi 42
Pod Fredr 47
Pod Gryfami 47
Pod II Strusiem 42
Pod Papugami 39
Pod Zotym Psem 39
Pod Zotym Psem 48
Pronto Pizza 42
Przysta 39
Quchnia Polska 48
Restauracja Acquario 44
Restauracja Domowa 48
Restauracja Monopol 48
LISTINGS INDEX
97
WHERE TO STAY RESTAURANTS
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G No smoking
K Restaurant X Smoking room available
D Sauna C Swimming pool
E Live music W Wi-Fi
6 Animal friendl y S Take away
I Fireplace J Old Town location
Y Tourist Card accepted V Home delivery
Symbol Key
Al. Armii Krajowej F-7, H-7
Al. Boya-eleskiego H-1
Al. Kochanowskiego I-3
Al. Kromera H-1
Al. Matejki G-3
Al. Sowackiego G-4
Anny, w. C-2
Antoniego, w. A-3
Arrasowa B-4
Bauckiego A-5
Bauckiego F-5
Barlickiego G-2
Barycka D-1
Barycka G-3
Baudouina de Courtenay I-2
Bema G-3
Bema, gen. C-1
Bema, gen., pl. C-1
Benedyktyska F-3, G-3
Berenta H-1
Bernardyska C-3
Bernardyska G-4
Biaoskrnicza A-2
Biskupia B-3
Biskupia F-4
Bogusawskiego A/B-5
Bogusawskiego F-5
Bohaterw Getta, pl. A-3
Bolesawa Chrobrego F-2/3
Borna, pl. A-1
Borowska A-6
Borowska F-6
Boego Ciaa A/B-4
Boego Ciaa F-5
Braniborska E-4
Brodatego Henryka B-1
Browarna G-1/2
Brzeska D-6
Brzeska H-6
Bulwar Dunikowskiego G-4
Bulwar Wostowica G-4
Ciepa F-6/7
Cieszkowskiego I-2
Cieszyskiego A-2
Cieszyskiego F-4
Curie-Skodowskiej H-4, I-4
Cybulskiego A/B-1/2
Cybulskiego F-3
Czerwonego Krzya I-3
Czesawa, b. B-3
Czysta B-4/5
Czysta F-5
Czysty, pl. A/B-4
Dbrowskiego G-5
Dbrowskiego, gen. C-5
Daszyskiego G-2, H-2/3
Dawida G-6
Dbickiego F-2
Duga E-3
Dmowskiego E-3
Dobra E-4
Dobrzyska D-4
Dobrzyska G-4
Dolna G-2
Dominikaski, Pl. C-3
Doroty, w. A-4
Drobnera B/C-1
Drobnera F-3, G-3
Druckiego-Lubeckiego A-4
Druckiego-Lubeckiego F-5
Drukarska E-6/7
Drzewna E-4
Dubois A/B-1
Dubois F-3
Dworcowa B/C-5
Dworcowa G-5
Dyrekcyjna B/C-6
Dyrekcyjna F-6
Elbiety, w. A-3
Flisacka E-2, F-2
Franciszkaska A-4
Franciszkaski, pl. A-4
Frycza-Modrzewskiego C-2/3
Gajowa C-6
Garbary A/B-2
Garncarska C-3
Gdaska H-3
Gepperta A-3
Gliniana F-6, G-6
Gnienieska E-2
Grnickiego H-3
Grabiszyska E-5
Grodzka B/C-2
Grodzka F-4, G-4
Grunwaldzka H-3/4, I-3
Grunwaldzki, pl C/D-3/4
Gwarna B-5
Gwarna F-5
Hauke-Bosaka G-5
Haukego-Bosaka C/D-4
Henryka Brodatego F-3
Henryka Pobonego F-3
Henrykowska G-7
Hercena C-5
Hercena G-5
Hlonda, kard. D-2
Hoene-Wroskiego H-4
Hubska C-6
Hubska G-6/7
Chemiczna H-3
Chudoby H-6
Idziego, w. C/D-2
Igielna A/B-3
Igielna F-4
Inowrocawska E-3
Jadwigi, w. C-2
Jagiey E-3
Janickiego C-3
Janickiego G-4
Janiszewskiego H-4
Jatki A-2
Jczmienna E-5
Jednoci Narodowej B/C-1
Jednoci Narodowej
F-3, G-2/3, H-2
Joannitw B-6
Joannitw F-6
Jodowa B-3
Joliot-Curie D-2/3
Joliot-Curie G-4, H-4
Jzefa, w. D-2
Kamienna E-7, G-7
Kanonia C/D-2
Kapistrana, w. C-3
Kapitulna D-2
Kard. Hlonda G-3
Kard. Wyszyskiego
G-3/4, H-2/3
Kaszubska F-3
Katarzyny, w. B/C-3
Katedralna C/D-2
Katedralna G-3/4
Katedralny, pl. D-2
Kazimierza Jagielloczyka F-3
Kazimierza Wielkiego A/B-3/4
Kazimierza Wielkiego F-4
Kaznodziejska B-3
Kiebanicza A-2/3
Kiebanicza F-4
Kiliskiego C-1
Kiliskiego G-3
Kleczkowska F-2
Kluczborska G-2
Kniaziewicza C-5
Kniaziewicza G-5
Kolejowa E-5
Kotaja B-4/5
Komandorska A-5/6
Komandorska F-6
Kominka, kard. D-2
Komuny Paryskiej C/D-5/6
Komuny Paryskiej G-5
Konstytucji 3 Maja, pl.
B/C-5/6
Kocielny, pl. C-2
Kociuszki A-5
Kociuszki F-5, G-5
Kociuszki, pl. A/D-4/6
Kotlarska A/B-3
Kotlarska F-4
Kraiskiego C-2/3
Krakowska H-6, I-7
Krasiskiego B/C-3/4
Krasiskiego G-5
Kraszewskiego F-2
Krawiecka B-3
Krta F-2, G-2
Krowia B-3
Krowia F-4
Krupnicza A-3
Krupnicza F-4
Krzysztofa, w., pl. B-4
Krzywa H-3
Ksicia Witolda F-3
Kurkowa A-1
Kurkowa F-3
Kurzy Targ B-3
Kurzy Targ F-4
Kunicza B-2/3
Kunicza F-4
aciarska B-2/3
aciarska F-4
adna H-3/4
ka Mazurska H-1, I-1
kowa A-4
kowa F-5
azienna A-2
azienna F-4
Ledochowskiego D-1
Legnicka E-4
Lelewela E-5
Leszczyskiego A-3
Lniana G-7
dzka F-6/7
okietka Wadysawa B-1
Lubuska E-5
ukasiskiego D-5
ukasiskiego G-5
Macieja, w., pl. B-1
Maachowskiego C-6
Maachowskiego F-5, G-5
Malarska A-2
Marcina, w. C-2
Marii Magdaleny, w. B-3
Marsz. Pisudskiego E-5, F-5
Matejki, al. D-1
Mazowiecka D-3/4
Mazowiecka G-4/5
Mennicza A/B-4
Mennicza F-5
Miernicza D-5
Miernicza G-5
Mieszczaska A-1
Mieszczaska E-3, F-3
Mieszka I C-1/2
Mieszka I G-3
Michalczyka E-3
Mikoaja, w. A-3
Mia H-3/4
Minkowskiego H-3/4
Moda H-6
Modych Technikw E-3
Modrzejewskiej A-4
Modrzejewskiej F-5
Muzealna A-4
Muzealna F-5
Myliwska F-3
Na Grobli H-5
Na Niskich kach H-6, I-6
Na Szacach C-1
Na Szacach G-3
Nabyciska E-4
Najwitszej Marii Panny C-2
Namysowska G-2
Nankiera, bp., pl. B/C-2
Nasypowa A-5
Nasypowa E-5, F-5
Nauczycielska H-4
Nehringa H-4
Niemcewicza C-1
Niemcewicza G-2/3
Nobla F-3
Norwida H-4
Nowa B/C-4
Nowa F-5, G-5
Nowowiejska H-3
Nowy wiat A-2
Nowy wiat F-4
Nowy Targ, pl. B-3
Noownicza B-2/3
Noownicza F-4
Nyska G-7, H-7
Odrzaska A-2/3
Odrzaska F-4
Ofiar Owicimskich A/B-3
Ofiar Owicimskich F-4
Oawska B-3, C-4
Oawska F-4, G-4
Obiska G-2/3
Olenicka G-3
Orzeszkowej H-2/3
Otmuchowska G-7, I-7
Otwarta A-1
Otwarta F-3
Owsiana E-5
Pabianicka F-6
Pasterska E-1, G-1, H-2
Pauliska A/B-1
Pauliska F-3
Pawa Wodkowica E-4
Pawowa E-5
Pestalozziego G-3
Piaskowa C-2/3
Piaskowa G-4
Piastowska H-3/4
Pisudskiego, marsz. A/B-5
Piwna H-4
Plac Bema G-3
Plac Borna F-3
Plac Dominikaski G-4
Plac Franciszkaski F-4
Plac Grunwaldzki H-4, I-4
Plac J. Szeli E-5
Plac Jana Pawa II E-4
Plac Katedralny G-4
Plac Legionw E-5
Plac Nowy Targ B-3
Plac Orlt Lwowskich E-4
Plac Polski G-4
Plac Powstacw lskich E-7
Plac PowstacwWarszawy
G-4
Plac Powstacw
Wielkopolskich F-2
Plac Rozjezdny E-5
Plac Sowiaski G-2
Plac Solny F-4
Plac Strzelecki F-2
Plac w. Krzysztofa F-4
Plac w. Mikoaja E-3
Plac Teatralny F-5
Plac Uniwersytecki F-4
Plac Westerplatte H-3
Plac Wrblewskiego G-5
Plac Zgody H-5
Podwale A/C-3/5
Podwale E-4, F-3, G-4/5
Podwrcowa F-3
Polaka H-4
Polski, pl. C-3
Pomorska A-1
Pomorska F-3
Poniatowskiego G-3
Poniatowskiego, ks. C-1
Portowa E-2
Powstacw lskich A-5/6
Powstacw lskich E-6
Powstacw Warszawy pl. D-3
Prdzyskiego G-5, H-5
Prdzyskiego, Igancego,
gen. D-5/6
Pretficza E-6/7
Probusa F-3
Probusa Henryka B-1
Prosta E-5
Prusa C/D-1
Prusa G-3, H-3
Przejcie Garncarskie A/B-3
Przejcie elanicze A/B-3
Przeskok D-1
Przeskok G-3
Ptasia F-3
Psie Budy A-3
Psie Budy F-4
Pszenna E-5
Puaskiego G-5/6
Puaskiego, gen. C/D-4/6
Purkyniego, Jana Ewangelisty
C/D-3
Rakowiecka I-5/6
Reja H-3/4
Rejtana B-5
Rejtana F-5
Reymonta F-2
Roentgena H-3/4
Roosevelta G-2/3
Rostafiskiego B-1
Rostafiskiego F-3
Rozbrat H-3
Ruska A-3
Ruska E-4, F-4
Rybacka E-4
Rydygiera B-1
Rydygiera F-3
Rychtalska G-2
Rynek A-3
Rynek F-4
Rzenicza A-2/3
Rzenicza F-4
Sdowa E-5
Siemieskiego F-2
Sienkiewicza C/D-1
Sienkiewicza G-3, H-3, I-3
Sikorskiego E-4
Skargi F-5
Skargi, ks. B-4
Skadowa A-1
Skadowa F-3
Skwerowa A-6
lna A/B-6
Sodowa C-2
Sowackiego, al. C/D-3
Sowackiego, wybrzee D-3/4
Sowiaska G-2
Smoluchowskiego H-4, I-4
niadeckich I-3
Solny, pl. A-3
Sopocka H-3, I-3
Srocza F-3
rodkowa E-4
rutowa B-1
Staromyska C-2
Stawowa B-5
Stranicza A/B-2
Stysia E-5
Sucha B/C-6
Sucha F-6, G-6
Sudecka E-7
Sukiennice A/B-3
w. Anny F-3, G-3
w. Antoniego E-4, F-4
w. Doroty F-4/5
w. Ducha C-2
w. Ducha G-4
w. Jadwigi G-3/4
w. Jzefa G-4
w. Katarzyny F-4, G-4
w. Mikoaja E-4, F-4
w. Wincentego F-2/3
widnicka A/B-3/5
widnicka F-5
wiebodzka E-5
witokrzyska C/D-1/2
witokrzyska G-3
wistackiego D-6
wistackiego G-5/6
Swobodna A-6
Swobodna E-5, F-5/6
Szajnochy A-3
Szajnochy F-4
Szarzyskiego H-3
Szczepiska E-4
Szczytnicka D-2
Szczytnicka G-4, H-4
Szewska B-2/4
Teatralna B-4
Teatralna F-5
Teatralny, pl. A-4
Traugutta C/D-4/5
Traugutta G-5, H-5
Trzebnicka B-1
Trzebnicka F-2/3
Ukryta H-3
Uniwersytecka B-2
Uniwersytecka F-4
Uniwersytecki, pl. B-2
Ustronie G-2
Walecznych H-3
Waloska D-4
Waloska G-5
Warzywnicza C-1
Wska A/B-1
Wesoa F-6
Widok B-4
Widok F-4/5
Wickowskiego H-5/6
Wieczysta F-7, G-7
Wierzbowa B-4
Wierzbowa F-4/5
Wizienna B-2
Wizienna F-4
Wita Stwosza B-3
Wita Stwosza F-4
Wita, w. B-3
Witolda, ks. A/B-2
Wadysawa okietka F-3
Wodkowica E-4
Wodna B-2
Wolnoci, pl. A-4
Worcella C/D-4/5
Worcella G-5
Wrblewskiego, pl. D-4
Wrocawczyka H-4
Wybrzee Conrada-
Korzeniowskiego F-2
Wybrzee Sowackiego
G-4, 5, H-4
Wybrzee Wyspiaskiego H-4
Wygodna G-2
Wyspa C-2
Wyszyskiego, kard. D-1/2
Zachodnia E-3
Zakadowa F-2, G-2
Zaolziaska A-6
Zaolziaska F-6
Zapolskiej A-5
Zapolskiej F-5
Zaporoska E-5/6
Zauek Wolski A-5
eromskiego D-1
Zgodna H-5
Zieliskiego E-5/6
iki E-3
Zyndrama z Maszkowic A-1/2
Zyndrama z Maszkowic E-3, F-3
ytnia E-5
96
STREET REGISTER
LISTINGS & FEATURES INDEX
Accommodation at a glance 21
Basic Data 14
Breakfast 51
Climate 14
Currency Exchange 89
Dining at a Glance 32
Edith Stein 30
Euro2012 31
Have Your Say 32
Iglica 66
Language Smarts 16
Late Night Eats 55
Mail & Phones 15
Market Values 15
Milk Bars 48
Nightlife at a glance 52
Partisan Hill 68
Polands Venice 23
Polish food 46
Quick Currency Convertor 15
Quick Eats 36
Raclawice 66
Recovered territories 69
Smoking 56
So Where Exactly Am I? 62
Stare Jatki 39
Town Hall 68
Train station 11
Watch Football 80
Wrocaw Historical Timeline 63
Wroclaw University 70
Wroclaw's Gnomes 6
Features Index
98
Restauracja Teatralna 49
Ristorante Convivio 42
Sakana 43
Sarah 43
Sevi Kebab 36
Sioux 32
Soho 39
Sphinx 45
Spice India 34
Spinacz 40
Spi 40
Spiarnia 40
Splendido 44
Sushi 77 43
Szajnochy 11 43
The Mexican 44
Vega 49
Vincent 40
Wiea Cinie Bistro 36
Afryka Coffee Tea House
50
Antrakt 50
Cafe Borwka 50
Cafeterie Chic 50
Chocoffee 50
Coffee Planet 50
Czekoladziarnia 50
Falanster 50
K2 50
Kalaczakra 50
Kawiarnia Literatka 50
Lodziarnia La Scala 50
LuLu Cafe 50
Art Restauracja i
Kawiarnia 51
Bernard 51
Kuchnia Marche 51
McDonald's 51
Nefryt 51
Pijalnia Czekolady Wedel
51
Pod Papugami 51
Pomorzanka 51
Soul Cafe 51
Starbucks Coffee 51
Tralalala Cafe 51
Witaminka 51
Abrams' Tower 52
Academus 52
Alive 58
Antidotum 58
Baagan 52
Bierhalle 52
Bistro Przemysowe 55
Bohema 59
Cafe Artzat 52
Casa de la Musica 52
Celtic Pub & Restaurant 53
Coolturka 53
Czeski Film 53
Daytona 59
Drink Bar Magosia 53
Error 53
Eter Club 59
Fanaberia 53
Firlej 53
Fly Bar 54
Graciarnia Pub 54
Guinness 54
Gumowa Ra 59
Havana 54
Cherry Club 59
il Gusto 54
Inspiracja 54
Jazzda 60
John Bull Pub 54
Kalambur 60
Klub i Kawiarnia Puzzle 60
Klub Na Jatkach 60
Kultowa 54
Lamus 54
Liverpool 54
ubu Dubu Bistro 55
Lulu Belle Cafe 54
Madness 60
Maana Cafe 60
Marrakech 55
Melan 61
Metropolis 61
Miodosytnia 55
Mleczarnia 55
Niebo 55
Niskie ki 55
Novocaina 55
Obsesja 61
Paparazzi 56
Pasja 61
Piwiarnia Warka 56
Plan B 61
Pocig 56
Pod Papugami 56
Pod Zielonym Kogutem 56
Przedwojenna - zakski,
przekski 55
Ra Bar Bar 61
Ragtime 57
Rejs Pub 57
Salvador 57
Setka Bar Polski Ludowej
55
Schody Donikd 57
Siwy Dym 57
Spi Brewery 57
Strefa Zero 58
Szuflada 58
U Joina 55
Wagon Club 58
CAFS
NIGHTLIFE

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