Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
Wedding is the window to culture and hence need a special treatment in photography. Wedding photography is the first stepping-stone to become a professional photographer. Wedding photography is a bread winning game for a professional photographer but for others it may be a fun. Whatever may be the purpose, the following tips could contribute for a better wedding photography: Flash that matters
1. If you are using an aim and shoot camera with a built in flash in indoor, make sure that you are just about six to ten feet away from the subject. This is because the flashlight from the built in flashes in the small aim and shoot cameras are not powerful enough to reach the subject beyond this distance. 2. If you are using a SLR (Single Lens Reflex) camera with a separate camera mounted flash, do not exceed the flash synchronization shutter speed (1/60 or 1/125 secs.) marked distinctly on the shutter speed dial or as specified in your camera manual. If you are working in a shutter speed faster than the flash synchronization speed, then you will see part of the final photograph looking totally black. 3. If you are using a SLR camera with a separate camera mounted flash, check from the distance scale of the flash and select the appropriate aperture (f-16, 11, 8, 5.6, 4, 3.5, 2.8 etc) that has to be set on your lens. 4. If you are using a SLR camera and shooting in automatic flash mode, decide about your range of distance (0.5 meters to 3.3 meters) within which you operate for shooting the function sequence. Then, find the appropriate aperture from the flash scale (f/5.6) to set it on the lens. 5. If you are using both the camera and flash from the same camera manufacturer (a flash designed as dedicated. For example, Nikon SB-18, Nikon SB-20, Canon speedlite 540EZ and so on) in the automatic mode, then the camera and the flash mutually take care of the flash exposure, flash synchronization speed etc. 6. It is recommended to use the flash from a closer range possible (just around 1.5 to 3 meters) 7. Use fresh batteries for shooting important functions. Otherwise, it will take longer time to charge the flash and you might miss an important shot when the flash fails. You can use rechargeable NiCd. or NiMH batteries for powerful, consistent flash out put and a longer battery life in a camera mounted flash. Composition also matters
1. While shooting a sequence of function, confirm that you are getting the faces of the participating persons clearly. For example, if there are two people garlanding each other, then, it is preferable to show them in profile (side face). The identity of the participating persons is important so, do not shoot people from behind.
2. Use a wide-angle diffuser on your flash when you shoot with a wide-angle lens (28mm/24mm) otherwise, the middle area of the photographs will look brighter than the corners. 3. Being very harsh, flashlight produces dark shadows. This could be minimized to certain extent if you shoot people closer to the background. If you are using a powerful flash unit with the tilting flash head, then you can try bouncing the flashlight against the wall / ceiling / reflector. 4. Do not try to shoot all the people sitting in the auditorium / hall with your camera mounted or built in flash because; flash cannot illuminate the front and back rows evenly. If you want, you can shoot them in small groups four or five people in a row. 5. Flashlight could capture any fast action. You have to decide on the best action of the sequence so that the picture looks meaningful. For example, if you are shooting an inauguration of new premises by cutting the ribbon, then the right action would be the scissors cutting the ribbon half the way through. Any action before or after will become meaningless. 6. While shooting people in groups see that you are standing exactly opposite to the middle person in the group. This will facilitate the even distribution of the flashlight. 7. Note to avoid any stray subject in between the flash and the people, for, this will make the subject look over exposed (too bright) or the people under exposed (too dark). 8. Be careful about the highly reflective backgrounds for example, painted walls, glass partitions, glass doors / window panels, glossy or polished furniture; for, all these surfaces reflect the flashlight seen as a white washed out patch in the final picture. To avoid this, shoot from an angle so that the reflected flashlight is not recorded in the photograph. 9. Sometimes people close their eyes at the very sight of the flash. This is most common but could be avoided if you say ready before you shoot. 10. To get the natural expression and emotions of people, watch the sequence of the function carefully and shoot as it goes and dont ask people to pose for you after the sequence is over. Action replays generally will not give the true expression of the people. Avoid people waiting for you to focus or load a fresh roll of film.
consciousness. Many people turn to be grim and timid in front of the camera hence, develop a dialogue so that, they are casual and normal the way they stand and smile. 5. Though all types of lightings are interesting in its own way, a diffused overcast lighting is comfortable for shooting people in out door. 6. While shooting in doors avoid direct flash and use a bounced flash either on the wall or ceiling along with the window light. 7. It is not always necessary for the subject to look in to the camera and many times they can look even away from the camera. Whenever, you wanted a picture with an interaction to the viewer, and then the subject (person) can look in to the camera. 8. A candid picture shooting people without their knowledge, is just fantastic for you get the true expression and actions of the people. 9. It is suggested to use open apertures wherever the background is distracting. Open apertures (f-2.8, f-2, f-1.8) could make the background un-sharp to throw importance for the main subject. 10. Under low light conditions it will be better to use fast films so that, hand held photography is possible.
1. Look out for a contrast light from the sides or from behind, as frontal shadows gives a pronounced effect of the texture. 2. The diagonal light from the lower level is ideal to get texture details. 3. Control the reflections if it is a polished surface by a polarizing filter. 4. Use a macro lens if you are working on tiny subjects or a wide-angle lens if you are working on landscapes (deserts and snows).
7. Use selective focus technique for subjects with fine forms, to stand out effectively from the background, which establishes distance and perspective.
6. Overlapping colours in a scene need to be balanced carefully so that, the subject separation is clear.