Fusing: guidelines for pre-production testing - include articles on fusing

myth and basic adhesive selection criteria

Bobbin, Jan, 1999 by Annett Frederiksen

This step-by-step guide to the most critical interlining testing procedures is designed to help
manufacturers troubleshoot quality problems in the production environment.

Fusible interlinings have enabled the apparel industry to make great strides in efficiency and
quality in the past several decades, but the matter of finding the right interlining for a specific
fashion fabric continues to present challenges.

These challenges have intensified in the past few years as manufacturers have begun to
integrate a wide variety of new fibers, fabrics and finishes into their product lines. If these
new fabrics are not handled properly, they can change color, shrink, stretch, stiffen or change
in surface appearance. Manufacturers also must deal with changes in "stock" fabrics from one
season to the next as mills make changes in finishing to cut costs without "visibly" changing
their lines.

Many frustrations in fusible interlining selection and use can be avoided if manufacturers
collaborate with their interlining suppliers in choosing the right fusible, and conduct pre-
production testing to insure consistent performance.

Pre-Production Testing Objectives

Pre-production testing is essential to determine the best fusing conditions for a specific
interlining and a specific fashion fabric. Because fiber content and finishes can vary so much,
each production lot of a fabric should be tested. In some cases, the same fabric - in different
colors - can require slightly different fusing conditions to create consistently strong bonds.

Pre-production tests should:

* Determine, or confirm, the fusing conditions to use for a fabric and interlining. While
interlining manufacturers publish what conditions should be used, slight adjustments in
temperature, time or pressure may be required for a specific fashion fabric - or to
accommodate variations in fusing equipment.

* Measure the amount of shrinkage in both the unfused fabric and the fused fabric.

* Measure the bond strength between the fabric and the interlining.

* Evaluate the handle of the fabric and the interlining. Is it what the designer wants? Is it too
soft, too firm, too fiat, too full?

* Evaluate the surface of the fabric and interlining after fusing.

* Evaluate the compatibility of different interlinings used in the same garment. For instance,
in tailored jackets, the front fusible and small parts fusible often are different. However, these
interlinings generally are all fused at one time, under the same fusing conditions. Testing
should determine if these conditions are adequate for proper fusing of both interlining types.
* Evaluate the performance of the fabric and interlining after steaming in secondary
operations. Is the bond still strong? Is the surface of the fabric still smooth? Is there any
strikeback?

* Determine whether there are any other potential problems which could affect the
appearance or durability of the garment.

It is critical that pre-production tests be conducted with the equipment that will be used in
production. For example, to evaluate bond strength, samples should be fused with a
continuous fusing press if that is the equipment that will be used in production. However, if
work is to be contracted out, and there is potential for a variety of alternative fusing
equipment to be utilized in production, additional testing may be required. For instance, the
interlining should be tested with a clam shell press, Hoffman press and hand iron. In turn,
evaluations should be made after fusing, and after washing or dry cleaning.

The following sections will provide guidelines for conducting several of the most important
tests and evaluations related to fusible interlining usage.

Measuring Bond Strength

Bond strength - or the sturdiness of the seal between the fusible interlining and the fabric -
should be evaluated after fusing, and after washing or dry cleaning, depending on the
recommended care of the garment.

A standard bond strength test involves the following steps:

* Fuse 2-inch by 8-inch strips of fabric and interlining. Release paper should be placed in
between the two fabrics at one end of the sample so that a section of the material does not
fuse;

* Allow the fused strips to cool for a minimum of two hours, ideally for 24 hours; and

* Using a tensile strength testing machine such as a Scott Tester or Instron machine, place
the unfused ends of the fabric and interlining in the machine's grips and pull apart. The
machine will measure the amount of weight needed to pull the two fabrics apart. Acceptable
pull-apart weights will vary greatly according to the type of interlining and fabric being tested.
For instance, most fabrics should withstand one and one-half pounds of weight, but heavier
fabrics should withstand more weight and sheer and lightweight fabrics will withstand less.

TABLE 1 Fusing Speed: Determining Optimum Performance

Fusing Time Trial Results

Belt Cycle #Units Per Hour Work Quality

6 Seconds 338 Poor

8 Seconds 340 Fair
10 Seconds 350 Good
12 Seconds 355 Very Good
14 Seconds 336 Good

Note: Numbers are an average per operator, including unloading. Counts may vary
depending on the type of work/piece size. Fusing cycles of longer than 14
seconds continue to yield a lower number of units produced per hour. In turn,
the risk of overfusing (i.e., too much heat and time) also increases -
especially for blouses and dress weight fabrics.

Source: Freudenberg study conducted by independent fusing contractor.

Bonds also can be tested without using equipment by following these steps:

* Cut the fabric and interlining on the straight grain. (The interlining should be approximately
one-fourth of an inch narrower than the fabric.) Fold the top edge of the interlining back on
itself. This will create a handle with which to pull.

* Fuse the fabric and interlining at recommended fusing conditions. Let the fabric cool.

* Hold the fabric at its top in one hand, and with the other hand pull the interlining by the
"handle." Pull evenly and slowly.

If the bond is good, you will observe:

* Transfer of adhesive;

* Adhesive dots visible on the fabric; and/or

* Tearing of the base fabric as the interlining is pulled away.

If the bond is poor, i.e. if there has not been a satisfactory transfer, you may observe the
following:

* Adhesive dots will not be visible on the fabric, or there will be very few dots;

* Adhesive dots may feel hard to the touch, indicating the fusing temperature or pressure was
not high enough and that the adhesive did not penetrate the fabric; and

* The fabric and interlining separate easily.

Measuring Shrinkage and Stretch

During fusing, or subsequent laundering or dry cleaning, both the fabric and the interlining
may shrink or stretch. In other words, the materials may undergo dimensional change. If the
two materials shrink in different amounts, the surface of the fabric may appear bubbled. If
this occurs during fusing, you have a flawed garment. If it occurs after the consumer
purchases the garment, you may have a return.

Shrinkage is less evident if the fabric surface remains unchanged. However, production
problems will arise if pieces do not fit together properly. In turn, shrinkage may affect the fit
and comfort of the garment.

For the best analysis, measure shrinkage in the fabric alone, and in the fused fabric, as
follows:
* Cut two squares of fabric, and one square of interlining. Place at least three sets of
measured marks down the length and across the width of one piece of fabric and the
interlining.

* Place the interlining on top of the second square of fabric.

* Send the unfused, marked square and the marked interlining plus fabric through the fusing
press at the same time.

* Measure the distance between the marks to determine the dimensional change (shrinkage
or stretch) across the width and in the length. Average the three measurements in each
direction. Calculate the percent change.

In evaluating the results, consider the following questions:

* Is the percent of change low enough to be acceptable?

* Is the interlining shrinkage more than that of the fabric alone?

* Is the interlining controlling the shrinkage?

If shrinkage is high (unacceptable), retest the samples using lower fusing temperatures, a
shorter fusing cycle or pre-test a different interlining. Don't forget to also recheck the bond
strength as fusing conditions are adjusted.

Note: Rulers and markers for dimensional change tests are available from The "Sanforized"
Co., a division of Cluett, Peabody Co., which can be reached at tel.: 404-346-5740.

Steam/Surface and Strikeback Evaluation

After fusing, tailored garments go through at least two steaming operations and one pressing
cycle. In each operation, garments are subjected to seven seconds to nine seconds of steam.
Each blast of steam/heat presents a risk of delamination (separation of the interlining from
the fabric) or strikeback (fused fabrics sticking to each other). By exaggerating steaming and
pressing conditions in pre-production tests, manufacturers can avoid these problem when
garments are under construction.

For both steam/surface and strikeback tests, fabrics are prepared as follows:

* Fabrics are fused and allowed to cool for at least two hours; and

* Fusing conditions - including temperature, cycle speed, etc. - are noted. (If test results are
poor, different fusing conditions could improve the results.)

Steam/Surface Evaluation: The fused fabric is placed on a Hoffman press, fusible side down,
and steamed for two, 15-second cycles, open buck. Then the fabric surface is evaluated.

Strikeback Test: Two samples, fused with different interlinings (a front fusible and small part
fusible) are placed together (or a single fabric is folded in half), interlining sides together. The
samples are pressed on the Hoffman for 15 seconds, closed buck with steam, and then
vacuumed for 10 seconds. After the fabric cools, the samples are pulled apart.
If the layers of fabric do not stick together at all, there is no strikeback. In the opposite
extreme, the fabrics will appear bonded. Typically, with some strikeback, fabrics can be
pulled apart, but there is a cracking noise as the layers separate.

In conclusion, pre-production testing is needed to insure garment quality and consistency.

Before beginning your tests, however, it is important to work with your interlining supplier to
determine the best products to meet your needs, in regard to fusing equipment, fashion
fabrics, applications, handle and price. Recognizing the potential pitfalls and being armed
with different interlining solutions will eliminate many fusing problems.

Fusing Myth: The Faster the Better

Under pressure to speed up production, some manufacturers decide to ignore the

recommended fusing conditions they receive from their interlining suppliers and simply turn
up the heat, and turn up the speed on their conveyors - shortening the fusing time.

While this approach may work with some fabrics. it can lead to fusing disasters.

Fabrics which are fused at too high of a temperature can exhibit higher shrinkage, become
firmer in handle, undergo surface change and even change color. In addition, bonds may not
he secure. In other words interlinings may "hold on" after being fused under such poor
conditions but delaminate (peel away) in laundering or dry cleaning. In tailored garments,
poorly bonded fabric may bubble, strikeback or delaminate after steaming.

In turn, running a machine faster than operators can fill it can lead to poor placement of the
interlining, fusible contamination of the belt and damaged piece goods problems that increase
production downtime and costs.

Faster belt speeds reduce fusing costs ONLY IF throughput is increased, according to trials by
an independent fusing contractor, which were conducted for Freudenberg. The results were
confirmed by data from a fusing machine manufacturer. The quality of the work also was
evaluated in terms of placement accuracy and degree of belt contamination.

According to the results of the trials, fusing productivity is maximized with a 12-second belt
cycle, and fusing quality and bond strength improve at lower speeds. However, fusing at six
seconds produces lower yields and jeopardizes quality. (See Table 1.)

There is a simple method for gauging if continuous fusing equipment is being used to its
maximum efficiency. As belt speeds increase, operators must be able to completely fill the
conveyor - with each new piece touching the one loaded before. A hot and fast-running belt,
left uncovered, lets energy escape and increases production costs.

Basic Adhesive Selection Criteria

There are four basic types of adhesive resins used in apparel. The appropriate end uses for
each adhesive are outlined below.

POLYESTER (PES).

These adhesives generally are considered to be the strongest for garments that will be
laundered. They have a low incidence of strikeback and are generally used in blouses,
dresses and shirts as well as small parts in tailored garments.
POLYAMIDE (PA).

These adhesives are steam insensitive, i.e. bonds are not weakened when the garment is
pressed/steamed in secondary operations. These styles are commonly thought to be the
strongest for tailored clothing that will be dry cleaned.

Both PES and PA adhesives are engineered to work at a range of temperatures - from "low
melt" styles which can be applied with a hand iron to "standard" adhesives which are best
applied with fusing equipment.

HIGH DENSITY POLYETHYLENE (HDPE).

These adhesives are very strong, but require high temperatures to fuse. They are generally
reserved for work shirts that will be commercially laundered, rental tuxedos that will be
repeatedly dry cleaned and garments that are stone-, acid- or enzyme-washed or garment
dyed.

LOW DENSITY POLYETHYLENE (LDPE).

These are relatively unsophisticated, powdered adhesives that iron on quickly, They are best
for use in garments that will be laundered. They are not recommended for fusing on conveyor
presses with Teflon[R] belts.

Fusible adhesives can be applied to interlining fabrics in a variety of ways and amounts, in
terms of the level of adhesive added on and the size of the adhesive dot. Adhesives may be
powdered, printed, web-coated, film or powder point. In general, sheer and lightweight
fashion fabrics require interlinings with a finely patterned adhesive (so the adhesive will be
invisible on the surface of the fabric). Heavy, napped fabrics require a large adhesive dot
(enough adhesive to grab onto the surface of the fabric).

Annett Frederiksen is manager of a Vilene[R] Technical Application Center for Freudenberg

Nonwovens, a leading supplier of nonwoven interlinings as well as woven, weft inserted and
knitted interlinings. Freudenberg has nonwoven plants in 13 different countries, a network of
sales companies in almost every country producing apparel and Vilene Technical Application
Centers around the world.

Apparel specialists in the Vilene Technical Application Centers routinely evaluate fabrics being
used by manufacturers. Their reports include hand samples for customer evaluation, along
with test results measuring bond strength, shrinkage and strikeback - including results after
fusing and after dry cleaning. The technical staff also can resolve production problems,
provide training and engineer innovative applications.