A Good Hard Look

at Ourselves
Geelong Otway Food and Wine
Tourism Strategy

September 2004

George Biron

SUNNYBRAE RESTAURANT ASSOCIATES

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Index

A Good Hard Look at Ourselves 75

Market to Market
On The Road Again
Local Customs
Counter-Measures and Gastro-Pubs
Brand Power
Hard Cheese
Hold the Presses
Awards
Sowing the Seeds
Farmers’ Markets
Bread and Ovens
Regional Events
Competitive Analysis
Infrastructure
End Note

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A GOOD HARD LOOK AT OURSELVES
This strategy outlines a plan to significantly enhance the food and wine profile of the
Geelong Otway area.

The first part of this report will identify the sectors that are open to this strategy. Then the
report outlines resources needed to implement a program of activities and events that will
in time fill the calendar with sustainable food and wine events that will position the region
amongst the most highly regarded food and wine destinations in the state.

Priority is given at the beginning of this report to issues that are currently in front of and
are being acted upon by government bodies.

Strengths and Weaknesses, Opportunities and Threats are all inextricably linked. This
analysis looks at how opportunities can be made from understanding threats, and how
strength can be achieved by confronting weaknesses.

Actions that address these dichotomies are presented in the body of the report and
summarised in the recommendations at the end of each section.

The area that this strategy covers consists of the City of Greater Geelong, Golden
Plains Shire, the Bellarine Peninsula, the Surfcoast and the Colac-Otway Shire. It also
addresses the alliances with the adjacent regions of Melbourne, Mornington Peninsula,
the Shipwreck Coast and Central Victoria.

The size of the area and its diversity are the greatest strengths that the group has in
presenting itself into the market. It is of course also a great challenge to keep the focus
on productive, collective marketing and emphasising cooperative strengths as opposed to
individual differences.

Highest priority must be given to keep these local alliances strong and to strengthen ties
with all bordering regions. Together these areas arguably represent the very best tourist
experiences that Victoria has to offer.

The food and wine sector of the tourism industry is for the most part a collection of many
small independent operators. The challenge for an area like this is to bring together the
spirit of a region with effective marketing strategies that relatively small budgets can
sustain.

Winemakers speak of terroir [or local conditions] that if understood results in wine best
suited to each particular area.

This concept of terroir can be equally successfully expressed in the presentation of food.
Some of the best examples of regional food and wine experiences come from districts that
have taken this concept and have respected its limitations.

Food and wine are two parts of the same experience. Together they provide more than
the mere sum of its parts.

The first aim of this strategy is to bring the two sectors together within the region.

Many tourism groups blindly follow models from other districts promising far too much.
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Often outcomes are anticipated before products have been developed to commercial levels.

There is a significant danger in over-enthusiastic promotions that do not deliver promised

outcomes.

For example food trails can not be created around a small number of developing seasonal
food-producers. Farmers’ markets need to be rooted in local passion and product for them to
continue to grow beyond their initial seed funding.

It is important to recognise limitations and aspire to exceed visitors’ expectations.

Care needs to be taken in the use of promotional material both internal and public to not
exaggerate products and services.

This strategy will give direction to each of the participating regions and sectors within each
region as to how to best achieve the collective goal of giving the visitor a truly memorable food
and wine experience.

Food and wine service are the most labour-intensive aspects of the tourism experience.
Together with a reliance on perishable product, they offer the least return on investment of
any part of the industry. Food and wine service is often seen as a necessary evil best left
to outsourcing. Paradoxically food and wine also provides the most personal and lasting
impression of the hospitality of a region leading to one of the key factors in making a decision as
whether to return to, or to encourage others to visit, a region. It is often a matter of passion.

Success in this district does not lie in peak tourist periods but in the ability to attract a year-
round quality market, and in the integration of the hinterland with the coast.

The rhythm of peaks and troughs, if understood, can be used creatively to bring about the
desired outcome of this strategy: that is, a region renowned for its food and wine hospitality
as well as for its year-round natural beauty. Geographically and demographically this area is
perfectly placed to deliver the balance required to achieve this goal.

One of the greatest perceived strengths of the region is its magnificent coastline of The Great
Ocean Road. Within such a strongly branded tourism icon the profile required for a similar or
even just a strong food and wine presence will always be secondary to the middle market needs
of the vast number of visitors that the region attracts at peak periods. This is not unusual as
most frontline tourist destinations do not hold iconic food and wine reputations.

But regions do.

The food of Venice is not as a rule highly regarded but the cooking of the Veneto region is one
of the many icons of regional Italian food. While Paris can be a treasure-trove to well-informed
food- and wine-lovers, the Champs Elysees is not known for its restaurants. There are countless
such examples and a few exceptions, and it is from the exceptions that we can learn to turn this
seemingly inevitable decline into a strong positive direction.

The success of a region in terms of food and wine is also linked to how locals use and respect
the products and services of a region. It can be said that the social health of a community can
be measured by the way its public houses are used.

We have some of the best produce in the country. But where is it? The gap between the

76
numbers of producers and outlets has widened to such an extent that the concept of fine local
produce is a mere marketing slogan to all but the very specialised small food operator. Wine is
of course also a food and the concept of locally-grown and -produced is best expressed in the
fine-wine industry.

This strategy seeks to empower new and existing producers of food and wine products and
services by bringing them closer to understanding their markets and providing them with
opportunities to meet their goals.

But most of all it seeks to give the visitor an unforgettable experience.

ACTION
Publish report and call for comment.

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MARKET TO MARKET
Access to the region has been considerably improved with the recent upgrade of the Geelong
Road and consequent links to the Western Ring Road, CityLink and the railway, making a trip
to Geelong one of the fastest and easiest ways to escape from Melbourne. All transport links
are falling into place for Geelong and beyond to develop further as a recognised food and wine
destination.

The commencement of Jetstar in Avalon will significantly increase interstate and overseas
access to this area. Avalon provides many new opportunities to create networks providing a
significant increase in the number of visitors to the area. The new airport will also add to tourist
numbers the Great Southern Touring Route. An increase in specialised food and wine events
linked to the route will significantly improve the power of the product.

A strong regional presence at Avalon, and multilevel partnerships with Jetstar, are essential for
this association to grow.

Food and wine tourism depends on access to quality raw products.

The relocation of the Melbourne Wholesale Fruit and Vegetable market from Footscray presents
a very significant opportunity for the district to benefit from a western siting of this facility.
Craigieburn, Calder, Werribee and Dandenong have been put forward as the possible sites for
the new wholesale vegetable market.

The Footscray market community would like to stay where it is but concedes that a move is
inevitable. The traders’ preferred new site is Craigieburn; Dandenong is their least favoured
option. The market stakeholders have identified most of the product sold at the market as
coming from the north.

Werribee is disadvantaged as the Yarra Valley and the Mornington Peninsula will join
strategically to lobby the government for Dandenong or Craigieburn. But in a strictly political
sense Werribee and the region have a number of marginal seats adding to the strength of its
bid.

The new Mitcham to Frankston freeway will strengthen Dandenong’s position. Dandenong
has been recently identified as a disadvantaged area, another form of political leverage. Also,
historically Dandenong has been seen as a market town.

Werribee has Avalon and Tullamarine nearby, and along with the docklands at close range
presents a very strong case. While most sea freight is packed on the farm, the deepening of
the shipping lane in Port Phillip Bay recently marked for development also adds to the strategic
position of Werribee for warehousing and distribution.

The wholesale fish market is also to be rebuilt and its new position is also vital to the
development of food and wine service in this area.

Stewart McArthur, Federal Member for Corangamite, believes that the north and west rail
corridors will be linked within 5 years [since the first draft of this report the Federal budget has
allocated significant funds for the transport sector] and that rail transport facilities at Laverton
would be perfectly positioned to handle the increasing amount of fresh produce shipped by rail.
He sees rail as the most efficient and sustainable form of transport for fresh produce. Roads
can only take so much traffic. But it must be conceded that northern corridor also has good rail
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opportunities, favouring Craigieburn.

Our neighbours in the Shipwreck Coast and adjoining regions would benefit to an even more
significant degree from a wholesale market on the western side of the city, but it is our other
regional neighbour - Melbourne - that ultimately will swing the vote.

Avalon airport provides the key multiplier effect in the economic impact of the position. Lindsay
Fox is, as owner of Avalon, a keen advocate of the move. Frank Costa’s office has also
expressed strong support for a Werribee siting. Qantas and other carriers can also be seen as
beneficiaries of a Werribee site.

Calder may well succeed as a compromise site but the Victorian government has stated that if a
consensus cannot be reached they will use government land at Werribee as the preferred site.
The long term benefits of a close proximity to the wholesale market to this region are very
significant.

Access gives an edge

Opportunities would open up in agribusiness in this area with such a favourable proximity to
distribution markets. Specialty food such as dairy products need air transport. Western Victoria
is poised for another strong growth burst in specialty cheese production. The Warrnambool
Cheese and Butter Factory is poised to list on the stock exchange and the Great Ocean Road
Cheese Company has been registered. Mount Emu Creek cheeses are relocating to new
premises within the district.

With a new market hub, the corridor between Werribee and Geelong would also develop into
an area of hothouse agriculture with plenty of room for food manufacturing. This model would fit
well with the Victorian government’s recently released policy - “Activating Next Generation Food
Strategy.”

The access to recycled water from Werribee would also be seen as a positive feature for these
industries.

The site for the new market is one of the most important strategic decisions by
government that the district faces this year.

If the site for the new market is in Werribee, the benefits to this region would be
incalculably positive.

The Victorian Government is yet to decide.

This report recommends high level consultations with Government, local authorities
and all other stakeholders to facilitate a strong united campaign for the relocation of the
market to Werribee.

ACTION
Identify key stakeholders in the relocation of the Footscray Wholesale Vegetable
Market.

Create awareness amongst local businesses as to the importance of the

outcome of the relocation of the market.
Lobby the Victorian Government and Opposition members for the preferred

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 siting of the new market to Werribbee.

Create awareness in the press as to the importance of the move.

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On the Road Again
One of the weakest links in the food and wine experiences of visitors occurs in an area that
affects all travellers at some time.
Food and wine on the road is one of the most disappointing experiences that travellers face.
Roadhouses without exception serve food that, at its best, is just adequate to allay hunger.
There have always been attempts to improve highway dining, most recently expressed by the
new service stations on the Geelong Road. These new stops are still cosmetic variations on
what has gone before. In fact they provide the opportunity of a traveller to completely by-pass
the district and plan their next food and fuel stop to beyond Warrnambool.
Fast food can be good food with a little care.

There is an opportunity to develop a point of difference within the district.

Oil companies spend very large sums of money on roadhouse dining. An oil company with
vision could, [by the nature of their resources and distribution networks] be encouraged to
develop a concept in partnership with the tourist bodies similar to the European Routiers.
This organization documents good food and wine on the highways of Europe. These include
roadhouses that provide simple but tasty food that must to be of a certain quality to qualify for
membership of the group.

The benefits of such a trial conducted in this district would be very significant. Success would
translate to great benefits for the whole state. The road is the last frontier for good food and
wine.

Many strategies ignore sectors that do not seem to be directly associated with traditional quality
food and wine experiences.

It is very easy to ignore the foundations of this industry.

Motel breakfast has to be one of the most tragic parts of getting from A to B.

A seminar to a forward-thinking motel chain or a group of independent operators to help develop

a “better breakfast” within the district immediately focuses the attention of the visitor to the
commitment of the area to an enjoyable stay.
A visitor that is just passing through to another destination at a “sleep stop” would have the
question of when to return reinforced strongly over a stunning regional breakfast.
Opportunities are there for local producers to become involved in providing the package.

Most food outlets have a good modern coffee machine but still so many places do not use them
to full advantage.

A program of coffee education along major, or indeed any routes would further focus care and
quality for modest investment. A forward thinking coffee company would rise to the challenge.
It is with the basics that the most lasting impact can be achieved.

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 ACTION
Arrange meetings with oil companies to develop a routier style food on the road
concept.

Develop a better breakfast concept.

Beginning with the Great Southern Touring Route.

Develop a coffee education program within the district.

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Local Customs
The Customs House Restaurant space represents a unique opportunity to re-focus the face of
waterfront wining and dining. The building is one of the most important examples of early neo-
classical Australian architecture in Geelong. The interior spaces are pure and clear, and speak
directly to a quality food and wine experience.

To use this space for another restaurant targeted to the same market as most of the other
businesses on the waterfront would be very short-sighted.

While the Cunningham Pier was sacrificed to Smorgy’s this space must not be lost to the
highest bidder and the lowest common denominator.

In Melbourne, Donlevy Fitzpatrick’s Dog’s Bar and George Hotel developments clearly defined
the direction of style and flavour in St Kilda. The Customs House site needs a similar vision.

That is not to say that those developments should be copied but a lot may be learned from what
they were and why they were so successful. They succeeded because:

1. The Liquor Laws had changed to make the sale and consumption of wine much simpler.

The culture of wine was celebrated with a youthful energy.

A radical approach was given to wine. Fresh, ready-to-drink wines with upfront fruit flavours
were featured. Pinot Noir was embraced and given great promotion. These places were at
the centre of promotion, appreciation and recognition for cool climate wines.

Geelong still has a very conservative interpretation of the liquor laws.

2. The St Kilda developments were primarily directed to the local residents and professional
groups such as artists, architects, the advertising and hospitality industry who shared
Don’s vision for a civilised food and wine culture.

Inner city living is just beginning in Geelong.

3. Simple but very high quality food was prepared and served by passionate professionals
without fuss, for an affordable price. The Dog’s Bar and George Hotel were the career
spring-boards for some of the most respected cooks and restaurateurs in the country.

Otto, Icebergs and MG garage in Sydney have very strong connections to St Kilda.

Geelong has a very different demographic so a different approach is needed but the
decision to offer the lease should not be made hastily.

This is a very special site.

ACTION
Consult with Geelong Planning Department to carefully consider the tender.

To avoid rushing a decision, if not many applicants are presented in the first
round.

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Counter-Measures and Gastro-Pubs
The other major project affecting access to the area is the proposed ring road around Geelong.

The construction of this facility is in some form inevitable. The ring road will ease the congestion
in Latrobe Terrace and the rest of Geelong, but hospitality businesses within Geelong will have
to accept and address the challenge the drive-through opportunity makes available to those
wishing to get to the Bellarine and beyond.

The long-term success of the food and wine service community in Geelong depends on the
ability of the area to attract significant numbers of new visitors from Melbourne.

Most of the food and wine activity in the region occurs in the hotel or pub area. The region has
some large, extremely well-run hotels and a number of small local pubs that have not embraced
the gambling dollar. These hotels have seemingly been passed over by the food and wine
revolution of recent years. Some of these hotels are also in buildings with heritage overlays
that restrict larger developments. They are in danger of becoming a seedy blot on the tourism
landscape.

A “gastro pub” movement started the food and wine revolution in Melbourne in the 70’s before
the liberalisation of the liquor laws. Historically such culinary luminaries like Iain Hewitson,
Donlevy Fitzpatrick and many others began their careers in such a way.

Hotels present a valuable opportunity for innovative entrepreneurs to use pub dining rooms to
present good food and wine experiences for a relatively modest investment into a market that
already accepts the hotel as the place where young people naturally go. This is not merely a
new fit-out or renovation but a very focussed gastronomic movement.

Melbourne is again going through a period of such development. The Botanical, The
Carringbush, The Courthouse, Healesville Hotel, Hotel Spencer, The Kent Hotel, The Lincoln
Hotel, The London Hotel, Melbourne Wine Room at The George Hotel, The North Fitzroy Star,
O’Connell’s Hotel, Public House, and The Swallows are just a few examples of this strong
movement.

Geelong is also perfectly placed for such developments.

As well as Geelong, places like Inverleigh, Fyansford, Birregurra, Warrion, Beeac, Cressy,
Waurn Ponds, Forrest, and Colac also present exciting opportunities to present food, wine and
beer in a very contemporary way.

There will be a strong revival of the “real country pub”.

Country hotels offer excellent opportunities for industry professionals looking for a “seachange”
both in terms of real estate opportunity and lifestyle choice. The food in these hotels will be
simple but sophisticated without pretence, and with the ability to simultaneously satisfy, for
example, a touring group of Italian winemakers and also the local farmers on a Friday night.

The Victoria Hotel at Port Fairy, Royal Mail in Dunkeld, Farmers Arms in Daylesford, The
Criterion Hotel in Castlemaine and the Healesville Hotel are good Victorian regional
models. The list grows every day.

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Wine retailing in regional hotels also presents numerous marketing opportunities for regional
winemakers.

Many publicans are often locked into marketing groups that offer only a limited selection of
wines using the buying power of the group to gain price advantage in a fiercely competitive
environment. Regional wine-makers could also offer a similar discounted package to
participating hotels in the form of a ‘Six Pack” of their local wines priced well and in effective
packaging that would give extra information to the purchaser in the form of tasting notes and
vineyard information.

The wines could be varied throughout the year and they can also be available individually in
bottle shops. If appropriate [and really, where would it not be an advantage?] they would also
be poured in the hotel’s dining room.

To summarise, by using the established language of the hotel wine-marketers, we could assist
publicans who are not very comfortable with going past the familiar and easy-to-manage wine
list provided by a buying group to be involved in the local industry.

Wineries that do not have restaurants are presented with the opportunity to form strategic
alliances with these new “gastro pubs”. Such alliances could be very beneficial to both parties.

• Cellar door in the pub.

• Winemaker’s dinner in the dining room.
• Advantageous pouring rights in the bar.

There are also accommodation opportunities in pubs that fill a gap between the “Backpacker”
and “Boutique” markets.

There are many opportunities to refocus the food and wine service in any hotel. Simple gestures
such as a plate of home-made sausage rolls with real tomato sauce for after-work drinkers can
re-kindle loyalty at minimal cost to the publican. The concept of quality does not have to be
expressed as expense. A bowl of house-made “dukha” [Egyptian spice mix], a little local olive
oil and fine sourdough bread on a bar cost very little but a food-conscious visitor is immediately
put at ease. Simplicity is a misunderstood marketing term that is often misused to mean
convenience. A frozen sausage roll, generic but folksy labelled tomato sauce, a commercial
dukha, cheap badly-stored olive oil and a pre-baked frozen “ciabatta” is often considered to be
the same . The distinction is in the detail.

ACTION
Create a workshop for stakeholders to raise awareness of the opportunities for
new “Gastro Pub” ventures.

Conduct regular visits to market leaders in Melbourne and regional Victoria.

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Brand Power
Branding has been a catchphrase within the tourism industry for quite some time. The term can
have a variety of meanings ranging from regional identity to product identification.

There has been a shift to the branding of regions and products with regional and local names.
Success with regional food brands is evident in The Yarra Valley, King Island, F.O.O.D [Food
Of Orange District] and the Barossa Valley. Many districts such as Mildura, Murray River, King
Valley and indeed all districts with emerging food and wine profiles are trying to employ this type
of marketing.

Great care must be taken if we are to use this concept.

In this district, the size of the area means that if it is to attain success in regional branding we
will have to focus on specific products from central locations.

The Colac-Otway region presents such an opportunity.

Developing a strong food brand in this area would help to integrate the farming districts with the
recreational activity of the coastal areas, providing a balanced picture of the district. If the Colac-
Otway food profile is to be strong and have credibility this region’s products and services need
to be consistent and of a very high quality or they can cause serious harm to the general profile
of an area.

Small producers often appropriate their local geographic name as their brand. For example,
Yarra Valley Salmon, Timboon brand ice-cream, Irrewarra strawberries and such. This type of
branding effectively and unfairly closes the door to other producers of the same type of product
in that area.

Regional produce, if it is to go beyond the “boutique stage”, has to reach a critical mass of raw
product to achieve a significant presence.

An alternative approach is the European model where the regional moniker is the closely
guarded seal of quality that defines the product often made by many growers and producers as
a consortium to very exacting standards that fit the desired profile of the region.

Beef in Australia is often marketed under brands based on genetics not regions, sheep meat
is often marketed by age [spring lamb] or diet [milk fed] and poultry is often defined by growing
conditions [free range]. Bread is distinguished by content and the leaven used e.g. sourdough.
Olive oil is defined through variety and press quality.

There are many grey areas in all of these categories.

Established marketing groups based on quality controls such as organic and bio-dynamic
agriculture have very strict controls for their members to adhere to and as such have attained a
high degree of credibility.

The wine industry, as identified earlier in this report, is the most sophisticated sector branding
regional produce. Established wine areas understand the value of such regional brands. They
do not use the wide regional name for product names. Brands are not only trademarks but
they can often be confused, especially if they are based on regional names. There is a big
difference of emphasis between Barossa Valley Estate and Balnaves of Coonawarra. The first
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appropriates the whole region while the second aligns itself with it.

The most prominent brand in this region is The Great Ocean Road (GOR). There are over
100 businesses that use the name and as such the power of the brand has been significantly
diluted.

Some tourism bodies would even like to further extend the Great Ocean Road.

Thankfully the Great Ocean Road is such a strong brand that it has stood up well to a great deal
of appropriation, but that is not to say it cannot be overused.

When geographic labels are applied to any product the region is at risk of damage by the
performance of its weakest branded link.

CRF can be justly proud of the fine modern plant in Colac and the employment that it
provides to migrants and locals. As you pass semi-trailers on the highway freshly signed as
COLAC OTWAY LAMB you could be forgiven for feeling proud of the primary produce of the
region. But it should read COLES LAMB as the abattoirs in Colac under CRF are the sole
processing agents for COLES SUPERMARKETS for lamb from any region that conforms to the
supermarkets standards.

The marketing theory is that regional branding sells even if the meaning has to be stretched.
The danger in this type of branding is that any local producers wishing to come into the market
as regional lamb producers in the Colac-Otway region have had their identity hijacked.

By far the most significant food products grown in this district are Beef, Lamb and Milk.

International visitors marvel at the range of beef available in this country. Sadly BSE has made
unavailable many traditional beef products in their own countries. There has been a preferential
shift to air-dried and aged meat within the quality end of the restaurant industry. This is a
reaction against the anonymous meats being offered to discerning cooks supplied in vacuum-
packed form.

The technique of natural ageing involves hanging fresh meat in a controlled temperature
environment that in time improves the flavour and texture of the product. The technique requires
careful monitoring but relatively low plant and equipment costs. The product loses weight but
gains value quickly. One relatively small provider of such aged meat near Warrnambool is
Hopkins River Beef.

There is a significant demand for naturally-aged red meat from the foodservice industry.
Many cooks also realise that young mutton or hogget, if aged correctly, is an extremely
flavourful and tender ingredient. It fits into modern menus with game, goat and other meats
that up to a few years ago were considered very down-market. It is all in the handling. Meat
Livestock Australia (MLA) is currently conducting research into the marketing of young mutton.
Experienced cooks already know this tasty product well but they just do not have any access to
a consistent supply.

The foundation could be laid for a culture of naturally-aged meats in the district that would give a
significant edge to a large range of food service outlets from pubs to iconic restaurants.
Independent butchers who face a very uncertain future from the growth of the supermarkets can
embrace this technique and create a significant point of difference providing a competitive edge
for themselves and the district.

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There are opportunities in the district to create a quality naturally-aged beef and lamb
brand that would enhance the food and wine profile of the district and best of all give the
visitor a memorable dining experience.

Do we wait for Safeway Beef to be branded as GOR Beef?

ACTION
Provide a seminar on the development of brand names within the district.

Create a taste test event for local cooks and butchers to demonstrate the
qualities of naturally-aged compared with vacuum-packed meats.

Facilitate an event with Meat Livestock Australia to raise awareness of young

mutton among restaurateurs and butchers in the district.

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Hard Cheese
Recent changes to the laws relating to the production of raw milk cheeses in Australia have
created an opportunity to produce a new regional cheese product.

Parmigiano Reggiano is arguably the most highly-regarded cheese in the world. Grana Padano
is similar and also commands great respect in the foodservice industry.

One of the most extraordinary features of this cheese is that it is made by about 500 small
producers, each making an average of only eight wheels a day. This is perfectly suited to dairy
farmers looking for a quality value added product. The cheeses are stored and aged in a central
warehouse and graded. A space is left on the rind to identify the individual maker and receive
the stamp of approval. There are 5 grades all acceptable, depending on age and seasonality.

It is not just a grating cheese to put on pasta but also the king of Italian table cheeses. If there is
an analogy to be made it could be said that Parmigiano Reggiano is to cheese what champagne
is to wine. The retail price is around $30 to $50 per kilo. The process takes at least two years
before a financial return is realised. The cheese also ages to about three years at peak
condition.

Parmigiano Reggiano is held in such esteem that banks in Europe make available loans on
the basis of how many wheels producers have ageing in their warehouses. Each wheel has an
approximate value of $2500.

In Italy Parmigiano Reggiano can only be made from the milk of cows from a defined area. The
cheese-making process is also seasonal and highly regulated.

With the changes to the legislation regarding the manufacture of certain cheeses from raw
milk [defined in Australia as “hard grating cheese”] a true parmesan-style cheese can now be
manufactured in Australia.

The process happens in giant copper vats that are spectacular and the factories would in
themselves become tourist destinations.

Parmesan-style cheese made from raw milk in a traditional way will inevitably happen
somewhere in Australia.

There is a significant opportunity in this district to produce the first Australian true
parmesan-style cheese of great quality.

This report recommends:

• the support of a seminar to look into the production of this iconic product,
• the support of a fact-finding mission to Italy, with an Australian cheese maker, to establish
a regional cheese product,
• the Branding of this product to be regional. Colac, Timboon and surrounding areas are
perfectly placed to manufacture this product.

The amount of attention that such a project would attract is not to be underestimated; the
realisation of this new industry is in complete harmony with the ideals of sustainable regional
food and wine tourism. Parmesan cheese is a foundation product which needs many suppliers
of milk and would add significant tourism value as well as an iconic product to the district.

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 ACTION
Conduct a tasting and introduction to Parmigiano Reggiano and Grana Padano
cheeses.

Conduct a seminar to investigate the opportunities within the local dairy industry
for the production of a parmesan-style cheese in the district.

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Hold the Presses
High quality printed collateral is essential to develop the food and wine profile of the district.

The Food Lovers Guide to the Great Ocean Road was a very successful and effective book
that needs to be updated. Hardie Grant has made approaches for the book to be rewritten, Max
Allen (writer) and Simon Griffiths (photographer) have also agreed to be involved again.

This report recommends a commitment from GOR to the book but with a degree of equity to
ensure further inevitable updates.

An assurance should be made by Hardie Grant, before the book is written, that listings will be
free of advertising pressure.

Vine Dining

There have been many books published recently on the fine food and wine of Australia.
There has also been a very obvious lack of local content in these publications. Coast is a very
pertinent recent example: only a little from the coast of SW Victoria. Volumes that highlight this
region in the context of the nation are very valuable.

Vine Dining is a concept for a new large-format book focusing on the top 20 Winery Restaurants
in Australia. Its theme is the celebration of food and wine close to their source. The book
should focus on the unique interpretation that each winery restaurant has in presenting its
cuisine within the context of the terroir. Each establishment is to be described both in print
and photographically in a light-hearted but considered manner, fusing the winemaking with the
cooking and dining experience.
 
The wine industry has embraced regional dining with iconic winery restaurants that now are
some of the best food and wine experiences in Australia. While there have been books on
wineries and books on local food experiences, there has not been an effective book that
features the winery/restaurant phenomenon.

The wine industry has been historically the most successful pioneer in the promotion of local
produce i.e. the grape. This relatively new marriage is the most exciting expression of a true
regional food and wine experience.

The book’s content should include:

• A strong photographic focus.

• A short but sharp essay on the experience a visitor may have on the way to, and at, each
venue.
• A section on the perceived vision behind the enterprise.
• Architectural treatment.
• Specialist winemaking techniques demystified at each place.
• Featured food and recipes, able to be cooked at home, but signature restaurant dishes
shown. A model could be the late great Richard Olney’s Vineyard Lunches.
• A dialogue between cook and winemaker to be explored
• Selected regional producers.
•
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Funding for the book could begin with local tourism bodies, Victorian Wineries Tourism Council
and the relevant national bodies. As well as a general market, cellar doors provide the perfect
outlet for such a publication.

Respected authors from each state could be engaged, with an overall compilation and editing
from one main writer.

Cherry Ripe, editor of the groundbreaking Australia the Beautiful Cookbook, author of Goodbye
Culinary Cringe [possibly the most important book on the emerging Australian culinary culture]
and Ripe a collection of essays from her 10 years as the food and wine editor of The Australian
newspaper, would be an ideal choice to oversee the project. She has expressed enthusiasm for
the concept.

The marriage between literature and food/wine/travel is historically a very strong alliance.

Good marketing occurs when the product is approached in a larger context.

The loss of the Festival of Words in Queenscliff is regretted by many people. This strategy
recommends a major annual literary prize, to be named the Mietta Prize, be established for
food-, wine-, and travel-writing. Respected judges could be chosen by the Mietta Foundation,
and the results published in a simple bright modern format and announced at a food, wine travel
writers conference in Queenscliff. This could be a one- or two-day event with added side trips
for the attendees.

The effect of such a prize and event cannot help but position this district in front of the best
journalists and writers in the country. It could develop into an international event.

Small publications and other printed ephemera also help to reinforce the culinary profile of a
district. Post cards, posters, calendars and such provide effective product for tourist information
centres.

ACTION
Support the new re-worked Food and Wine Lovers Guide to the Great Ocean
Road by Max Allen, published by Hardie Grant.

Seek assurance that no advertising will be sought before the first draft is
written.

Investigate the Vine Dining concept with tourism bodies from other districts.

Budget for the Mietta Prize for Food, Wine and Travel Writing, and develop a
food and wine writers’ conference in Queenscliff, built around the Prize, with a
dinner where the award is presented.

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Awards
From the Jimmy Watson to the Best Restaurant in the Age Good Food Guide there are many
awards in the food and wine industry. They all carry a degree of potential to help promote
business and encourage the pursuit of excellence. The strongest and most effective awards
are from sponsors that are removed with at least one degree of separation from the industry:
Qantas Winemaker of the Year, Jaguar Award of Excellence and others. These are important
benchmarks that play a vital role in the success of a business.

There are awards for all levels of service and product. The opinion of the writer of this report,
based on consultations, is that there are already enough awards for the industry. A new set of
local restaurant awards would only further alienate local members from each other and have
very little marketing power outside the district.

There is an urgent need to bring the food and wine sectors of the industry together.

This report recommends conducting workshops to help prepare local businesses to compete for
the awards run by independent operators. Many operators miss out on listings in guides through
a lack of awareness as to what the guides are looking for. Workshops should also be held on
what reviewers and visiting journalists are looking for. These workshops would have a far better
long-term effect than another local award ceremony.

Cooks’ and Sommeliers’ Medallion

Many young cooks do not have the financial resources to dine at the best restaurants.

Young sommeliers also face the same problems and suffer because they cannot afford to
experience their own trade from the consumer’s point of view.

A scheme is suggested where restaurants provide $100 each to create a gold medallion from
each establishment that they present to the most promising employee of the month. This
medallion is worth $100 towards a meal and wine at participating restaurants. The receiving
restaurant then gives the medal to the next promising employee.
The cost of providing the meal is offset by the opportunity to offer an otherwise out-of-reach
opportunity to one of their staff. The scheme would need to be embraced in Melbourne and
other districts for it to be effective.

Swap Cooks

A cooks’ exchange program could be devised to give young cooks exposure to other influences.
Relationships with restaurants in different regions can be established to implement an exchange
to the benefit of both parties. The scheme could be extended to overseas destinations and also
include assistant winemakers.

To bring the wine industry and the food industry closer together in the district, events that
respect the needs of each sector need to be planned. Restraint with food and wine often needs
to be considered. Often there are too many wines offered at tasting events and chefs try too
hard with complex dishes that overpower the wines, making matches and efficient service
difficult.
Inviting visiting cooks and winemakers to the district on their own terms makes for enjoyable
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events. High-profile cooks often consider funky events if they can also relax and enjoy
themselves. A chance to drive down the Road in a demo soft-top? A round of golf with a local
professional, a quiet retreat for the family, a session of surfing with a local expert or a day out
fishing with an experienced local often means a lot more than a big fee.

Good hospitality is the key.

Not only does the visiting expert give a relaxed presentation, he or she becomes an
ambassador for the area, and lasting friendships can develop with local hosts.

These combined functions do not have to be large and can be held during quiet times. Such
events would bring cooks and winemakers together as well as attracting the attention of the
industry commentators.

The concept of combining large food and wine promotions of small booths with individual
wineries and producers such as in the Exhibition of Victorian Winemakers needs to be re-
examined. The model, although relatively simple to organize, has limited appeal to the punter.
The concept is running out of legs. Often crowding around certain stalls leads to frustration for
customers; exhibitors can get bored and spend more time networking than connecting with the
visitors; and serious buyers can often be overlooked, as can members of the media.

A suggested new format is that wineries have individual tables of 10 [larger wineries could have
additional tables] set with water, spittoon, promotional material, apples cut, and of course the
wines. Each table has a trained spokesperson for the winery. There is a small table to the side
for other promotional paraphernalia. Visitors sit with the winemaker or spokesperson and others
stand as in a casino-style around the seated tasters. As tables are vacated new people join. The
spokesperson is rotated as required. The side table answers other queries.

A central foodservice area is also constructed where very simple food is prepared in the form of
small tastes suited to each variety.
The number of tickets sold is commensurate with the number of exhibitors.

A workshop to design a new format could be held to fine-tune the new concept.

Exchanges with interstate or other Victorian regions’ hotels and restaurants give good exposure
to local cooks and winemakers. If the first approach is from this local area and real hospitality is
offered the reciprocal invitation will soon come.

ACTION
Create a workshop to develop awareness of reviewers and award standards.

Identify suitable visiting food and wine professionals to invite to the district, to
conduct events at local venues.

Initiate a cook and waiter exchange scheme.

Develop a new wine exhibition concept with local wineries.

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Sowing the Seeds
The future of food and wine culture is with the very young.

Many food and wine educators have recognised that children are being increasingly alienated
from the origins of, and cultural relationships to, the foods they eat.

Worldwide there are many kitchen garden projects of which the most prominent example is
Alice Waters’ initiatives in California. The highest profile project of this type in Melbourne is
the Kitchen Garden at Collingwood School initiated by Stephanie Alexander. In Geelong and
throughout the district there are a number of school and community gardens.

This report recommends a multi-layered approach to bringing about further interest in the
growing of food plants in the region.

Seeds for Schools Program

This report recommends approaching each primary school in the district with a proposal
that teachers and students are given packets of selected vegetable seeds, containers and
propagating material to produce a small number of food plants to grow in pots of various sizes in
the classroom.

A community event is then developed around these plants where each school displays its work
together in a park as a portable “parterre” giving a strong visual effect through the repetition of
varieties.
The event features low-key prizes, a series of entertaining cooking demonstrations followed
by a picnic in the park using some of the same types of foods displayed. Black, white, red and
other eggplants, heritage tomatoes, coloured lettuces, etc will provide a spectacular show.

Specialist seed companies, nurseries, landscape companies can be approached to donate

material or provide sponsorship. The materials are not expensive so donations would not need
to be substantial but the results in education are very valuable, as is the visual impact resulting
in good media interest. The project can begin at a modest scale and grow.

To reinforce these ideas with adults, large seedling companies could be approached to donate
seedlings that could be given away at a central market. Seedlings in a cell form cost less than
one cent each to produce.

The results are expressed by the effect that traditional varieties of seeds have in flavour to those
that grow them. The produce can be displayed back at the market with small prizes for the
tastiest tomato, best tomato sauce etc. The greatest benefit would come from the interaction of
these amateur gardeners with cooks and each other. A visiting judge, such as Don Bourke or
Peter Cundall (ABC Gardening Australia program) could take strong interest.

The seed companies can benefit by using a questionnaire to effectively give them accurate
market research into the effectiveness of their seeds.

The Vegetable Expo at Werribee is a bi-annual event that showcases new varieties of
vegetables in a trial garden setting put together by horticulture students at Werribee. These
displays are spectacular.

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The food available to visitors at this event is always the usual vans selling fast food. An
opportunity exists to have a regional presence at this event for cooks and winemakers to
demonstrate the uses of the varieties on show.

There is always a big lunch at this event for government and industry leaders. This lunch also
provides an opportunity to showcase the cooking and wines of the area.

Landscaping is one of the most cost-effective ways to add considerable value to a house.

Similarly urban and rural landscaping has been used very effectively in leading food and wine
areas in Europe. As a visitor drives through vineyards, the scene is set for the enjoyment of
wine. The olive groves of the Mediterranean speak directly to the basis of local cuisine. When
this landscape is peppered with other food plants the monotony of monoculture is softened and
the gastronomic imagery is reinforced.

Food trees can be extremely effective street trees. Quinces, apples, etc all add an immediate
resonance to the enjoyment of food and wine for a visitor.

Discussions with local councils as to the integration of food plants into their public planting
programs could be picked up by sympathetic planners and developed to a considerable degree:
avenues of olive trees, into areas of olive oil production; vegetables such as artichokes added to
mass plantings in parks; herbs used as bedding plants.

It takes only one council to embrace the concept for the idea to spread, welcoming the visitor
and creating civic pride with a feeling of care for food.
Beaune, the centre of Burgundian wine tourism, has a street planting scheme that takes your
breath away. The theme is followed through, during the peak tourist period, right down to the
public planter boxes. Litter and graffiti are reduced and of course the scene is set for the serious
enjoyment of food and wine.

Food plant gardens could be further developed in the Geelong and Colac Botanical Gardens to
reinforce the school projects, as well as delighting the visitor. They would also be a resource for
curious cooks and farmers looking for inspiration. Food events within the gardens could be used
to add value to the produce.

As these projects develop, an approach could be made to Alice Waters to come to the region
for a separate project. At a meeting in New York in 2001, the writer found her generous with
her time, very interested in Australia and delightful. She is the most highly sought-after food
professional in Australia. She has declined every invitation so far - I believe that she has always
been approached in the wrong way. If these initiatives show signs of development I believe she
would be delighted to come and a wonderful project could be developed around her visit.

Her schedule means that she needs at least two years’ notice.

ACTION
Begin Seeds in School project

Approach Alice Waters for 2006 visit.

Approach Werribee Expo for local involvement.

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Approach local councils for landscaping project.

Approach Botanical Gardens for food-plant development project.

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Farmers’ Markets
Another food-and wine- centred activity that has grown substantially in recent years is the
farmers’ market. Like many other trends the name has been used to sell a concept and at times
the meaning has been distorted. Farmers’ markets are different to local markets. They aim to
bring growers and producers together so a direct connection is made between the buyers and
the producers.

There are many criteria for eligibility for traders that each market prescribes in its charter.

Farmers’ markets work best when there is a strong point of difference in the goods offered to
those available in mainstream. In urban centres where they provide the opportunity for city
dwellers to have access to specialized foods direct from the growers. They do not have to be
local but they do need to be of a standard dictated by the charter of the market.

Local markets provide locally-grown and-made produce in their own setting, and they provide a
meeting place for a community [the wood oven fits perfectly into such a concept]. Tourists can
connect to the produce of an area as well as enjoying a real country experience.

The Central Geelong Farmers was an initiative from the traders in central Geelong to integrate
the foreshore to the CBD in Geelong. This is a bit like putting the cart before the horse and
shows a lack of understanding of what a farmers’ market is.

The logo is a clear expression of this lack of experience. It looks like Ronald McDonald and
trivializes the effort of growers and producers.

Farmers’ markets that have succeeded in Australia, and particularly in Victoria, have been those
that have given respect to their charter and that have been placed in locations in which like-
minded shoppers live. The Collingwood Children’s Farm is probably the best example.

The Central Geelong Farmers’ Market had quite a good start with substantial local press
coverage and good visitation. But as time went by the market, instead of growing, started to
shrink. There were imported goods sold, fruit and vegetables from mainstream markets and
food grown by less-than-sustainable methods were also prominent. Management of the market
did not have a strong involvement from the traders.

The early markets nevertheless demonstrated that there is a demand for such a concept in
Geelong.

The type of foods and wines sold is a key to the success of the market. It is difficult to attract
small specialist growers to such a market as the fees to attend often do not make it possible
to turn a profit. Well-established local producers also do not see any benefit in spending a
day selling the same amount of produce that a distributor can sell without any effort from the
growers. These established producers have already invested time and money at showcase
events such as The Harvest Picnic, Fine Food, Tasting Victoria and wine events such as Wine
Australia. They simply do not have time to attend such markets.

This report recommends the following strategies to maintain and improve this market:

• As the position of manager is being advertised, an approach could be made to Miranda

Sharp, the best market manager in Melbourne, [Collingwood, St Kilda, Boorondoora
markets] to manage or have an input into the CGFM management.
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• A shared stand of substantial proportion, managed by the market committee committed
to offering the wares of local producers. Produce on this shared table packed in small
marketable parcels eg tomatoes in 1 kg bags for easy sale and financial reconciliation.

• A commitment from the producers to attend and work the stall at least once per season
although they can come more often if they wish. This stand would help to provide the
variety that shoppers expect.

• Another substantial stand sponsored by GOT that houses iconic producers and wineries
from in and out of the district. The best of Victorian produce and wine can be displayed
and sold, to the benefit of all. These visitors can be linked to food and wine events in the
district, further enhancing the culinary profile of the region. For example, Milawa Cheeses
and Goulbourn Valley wines with Cardoso Jamon at the market with a specialist wine
tasting and later an informal dinner in a winery or restaurant.

A different market can be devoted to olive oil and bread - the idea is easy to develop.
Once the initiative is made and the event is successful a reciprocal invitation is inevitable
from the visitors. Market shoppers are thereby given a chance to taste produce from all
over the state adding variety to each market.

The media have a different story to tell each month.

ACTION
Approach Central Geelong Farmers’ Market, to develop a GOT-shared farmgate
table, and help to develop visiting producers’ stand(s) within the market.

Develop a special monthly market-based dining event to showcase visiting

producers, in combination with local producers.

Invite Miranda Sharp to develop a strong long-term strategy for farmers’

markets within the region.

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Bread and Ovens
Good bread is one of the cornerstones of good cooking.

Food and wine tourists seek to find authentic traditional breads that add to their culinary/wine
experience.

Bread has a universal attraction that encompasses most cultures. There is a world-wide
movement based on a resurgence of real bread, that is, traditional loaves raised by natural
leavens, ideally baked in masonry wood-fired ovens.

South-Western Victoria, with its rich pastoral history, has an embarrassment of riches in early
19th century homesteads. Many of these gracious old houses have traditional wood-fired ovens
in very fine condition. Some of these properties are already tourist sites. Barwon Park, perhaps
the best example, has a strong committee that encourages food and wine events.

This report recommends the development of an annual Food and Wine event using its wood
oven, mansion and grounds at Barwon Park.

The event could be called Ladies a Plate, an event that not only celebrates the wood oven but
encompass all the traditional farmhouse cooking of Australia. The CWA would be sought to
contribute to, or perhaps host, the event. This type of cooking is at its best as fine as any other
country cooking. The event has mass appeal on many levels, and Barwon Park has the scale to
accommodate such an event with style.

The traditional wood oven is also a focus around which another project could be developed.

The traditional wood-fired oven forms an important nucleus around which community culinary
activity can grow.

Alan Scott, an Australian who has until recently been living in California, has over the last 20
years constructed a great number of traditional wood ovens for artisan bakeries, schools,
communities and individuals all over the United States. He has also held workshops in Australia
and has been responsible for the construction of many wood-fired masonry ovens in this
country.

This report recommends enlisting Alan Scott’s expertise to build a series of traditional masonry
ovens in public places throughout the district. The ovens would create strong community bonds
and provide a wonderful experience for visitors. Their presence would also highlight the district’s
commitment to the promotion and enjoyment of good food and wine.
The oven building workshops that Alan conducts demonstrate how to build the oven and
are revenue-neutral with participants fees used to cover Alan’s costs. The materials are not
expensive and the workshop provides the willing labour. Alan has written an important book
on the subject and is considered one of the world authorities on this subject. His workshops
are in demand and his ovens are quite special. They last as long as did the early ovens in the
homesteads, so a great legacy will endure.

The old ovens of the Western District could also be the subject of a small publication and a
series of postcards. Dennis Dowell, a health and safety lecturer at William Angliss, lives in
Ocean Grove and has been researching these ovens for a number of years. Denis would be
able to write a well researched book on the history of the wood oven in this district.

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Food romance need not be confined to Tuscany.

The old shearers’ quarters at the Purrumbete Homestead have a traditional masonry oven in
excellent condition. The homestead can sleep over 20 people in the shearers’ quarters and
about 16 in great style in the homestead. There is also good accommodation available nearby.
The property could be used for a natural leaven bread-making workshop with visiting bakers,
featuring a number of the fine bakers that this district boasts.

One of the most exciting new restaurants to open last year in Melbourne was Ladro, a small
simple dining room based around a wood oven in Fitzroy. It is likely to win The Age Best New
Restaurant in Melbourne this year. There is also a major resurgence of traditional, wood fired,
pizza restaurants throughout Melbourne.

The existence of many wood oven restaurants in Geelong provides the operators with the
opportunity to participate in a workshop in fast-track the evolution of this craft locally.

Rita Macali the co-owner chef of Ladro would be the perfect person to conduct such a
workshop.

The first year of this strategy concentrates on the foundations of food and wine, and bread is its
cornerstone.

ACTION
Conduct a seminar to introduce the concept of wood-fired masonry ovens in
public places within the region, with Alan Scott as speaker.

Call for expressions of interest from good groups in the region for workshop to
build the ovens.

Assist with guidelines for management of the ovens.

Approach Barwon Park for the Ladies a Plate event.

Approach Purrumbete for hosting a bread making seminar.

Approach Rita Macali from Ladro to speak to regional wood oven operators.

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Regional Events

Regional events can fill the year with seasonal opportunities to keep the district at the forefront
of food and wine activity in the state.

With considered timing these events would in effect provide a year-round food and wine
festival in the region. The timing of these events is crucial in not fragmenting the market within
traditional peak periods.

Geelong Wine in Asia

Asian food is the fastest growing sector in the restaurant industry, and is the weakest sector of
the food industry in the district.. Matching wine with Asian dishes is one of the most common
challenges for the winemaker.

Additionally, Asia presents the largest untapped market for Australian wine.

The New Zealand wine challenge concept can be developed with a combination of a Food
and Wine Exchange between a large Hotel in Asia and local cooks and winemakers. A small
delegation to the food and wine festivals of Hong Kong, China or Singapore would provide a
fruitful exchange of ideas and marketing opportunities for both sides of the equator.

Geelong Performing Arts Centre (GPAC)

The GPAC has in the past hosted some very exciting food and wine events initiated by Randall
Pollard. The venue lends itself well to hosting an iconic regional food and wine event. Inclusion
in the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival could be considered. The availability of multimedia
and the range of spaces can be developed into an important event. Masterclass-style
presentations in the auditoriums and special breakout activities combined with a public tasting
area would deliver an iconic event with careful management.

This event would need a 12 month lead time.

Melbourne Food and Wine Festival

There are very few events from the local industry that are included in The Melbourne Food
and Wine Festival. Local operators can gain significant exposure by creating stand-alone or
cooperative events within the festival.

A la c’Art
A food and wine event could be held in the Geelong gallery to reflect the theme of special
paintings in the collection. Funds to go to gallery acquisition fund.

Food and humour do not need to be mutually exclusive - an exhibition of food and wine
cartoons at the Geelong gallery would provide a very popular event. There are many such
works in regional and national collections from which to draw the best examples. The show
would be in the vein of the political cartoon show held each year in Canberra.

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Food Photography
A food photography competition, featuring amateur and professional categories, could happen
from tourist information centres. The celebrity judging, with an exhibition of the finalists’ work,
could be held at a central function at a winery.

Go CATS
The Geelong football club has one of the highest profiles of any business in the region. A
program of healthy eating could be linked to the club and taken to schools in the district with
football food ambassadors. [Sorry, Billy, this one’s not for you.]

The Mill Markets

The former Classweave site near the wharves in Geelong is going through an inspired
transformation. Ian Balliss’ vision for a new arts and market precinct is starting to take shape.
The site is already attracting significant visitors in its early manifestation.

The site is suited to many food and wine events and it boasts large cellars in good condition that
could be used by individuals and wineries to store large amounts of bottled wine. It would lend
itself to a large wine exposition or food fair, as well as permanent food and wine outlets.

The site has many buildings of considerable size, yet the layout and landscaping have kept the
proportions to a human scale.

The conflict between large industry and the site developers can be resolved. The mix of
industrial landscape and arts/food/wine is exactly how many modern cities are developing. New
York, London and of course Melbourne with Docklands are following a similar path.

In economic terms the Classweave site lends itself to food and wine production with the space
to move beyond a boutique scale. Olive processing, cheese manufacture, large scale artisan
bakeries and the like all fit well into the recycled ephemera and modern antiques that have
started the development of the site.

B.Y.O. Day
The introduction of a cellar night at local restaurants would encourage visitation on a historically-
quiet night early in the week. A B.Y.O. day would also provide wine collectors with the
opportunity to bring special bottles to their favourite venues.

BTG – By the Glass

Wine by the glass is often restricted to a few selections from the cheaper end of a wine list in
many restaurants. A constantly changing list of wines by the glass can enrich and empower
many wine lists without a lot of increased investment.

Winery Restaurant Lists

Winery restaurants that restrict wine choices to their own products put themselves at a
significant disadvantage in attracting a regular clientele. Wine ‘flights’ or a trio of smaller-sized
tasting glasses can be used to place in-house wines within the context of the market they are
targeting.

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Wines not grown in the district featuring varieties not grown by the operator can add a strong
dimension to a winery list. Listing wines from other districts can also forge strong relationships
with other areas.

Plasma on the Ferry

The Queenscliff Sorrento ferry can provide an opportunity to display the considerable video
collateral that the district has attracted. A plasma screen on each side of the vessels’ main
seating areas would provide travellers with ‘taste of things to come.’

An attempt could also be made to help the ferry serve at least some regional products.

Farmgate
There are many small growers selling produce from the farm gate in the district. Visitors and
locals enjoy picking up fresh produce in this way.

A well-presented standardized Farmgate signage system helps to reinforce the image of the
district by displaying, in effect, a stamp of approval for each vendor. Careful graphics need to be
developed for good style and visibility.

A combined Farmgate stand is already mooted in the section on farmers’ markets. As these
Farmgate networks develop seasonal maps detailing the availability of roadside stalls can
emerge. In time a seasonal diary with maps, giving care and attention to the true seasons for
the produce, and with recipes and notes on varieties, can then be produced to market and raise
capital to ensure regular update and development of the scheme.

Eventually a reliable food trail would emerge.

The Farmgate scheme would further display the commitment of the region in a very visible way
to visitors.

Portarlington Mussels
A paella competition in the park in Portarlington with visiting and local cooks enlisting the help of
the local Spanish community.

Colac Spuds
Potatoes are very important food plants and have a very broad range of appeal. The Otways are
a rich source of certified seed potatoes.

Bruce Fry, the only horticultural extensions and Plant Standards Officer specialising in potatoes
in the DSE Victoria, is located in Colac. There are a number of important collections of rare
potato varieties in the Otway area, and many new varieties have come from seed sources in the
Otways. Over recent times, there has been a strong interest in different potato varieties in the
context of modern cooking.

Potatoes lend themselves to many cooking styles: chips or fries are amongst the most popular
of all foods. An array of potato varieties makes a spectacular show and a program based around
the potato would draw interest from farmers to cooks and gardeners. The humble spud may
not seem as sexy a topic as rice or risotto but there is no denying the universal attraction that

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potatoes have.

There is an opportunity to create a Potato Festival in the Otways, perhaps in Colac or closer
to the farms that house these collections. The festival would have good local and also broad
appeal.

Apollo Cray
Crayfish and Abalone are some of the most prized examples of seafood worldwide.

Apollo Bay has some of the best examples of these foods. Few outlets offer Crayfish or
Abalone, and when they do, not many present them to their best advantage.

The interest in these two iconic products is very strong in Asia and in Australian Asian
communities.

A specialist festival weekend could be designed around these two products with visiting and
local cooks presenting a program that would create strong interest both locally and abroad.

Big Barbie in Birre

The BBQ is one of the icons of Australian cooking.

An attempt at the World’s Biggest Barbie in the Public Park at Birregurra could be held, with
local butchers supplying the meats. A sausage competition with many categories and celebrity
judges would draw significant attention.

Lake Elizabeth.
Lake Elizabeth is one of the most significant eco-tourism sights in the region.

The area is also host to a very diverse range of native fungi. A Fungi Foray held around Forrest,
led by experts from the Royal Botanical Gardens and with a picnic at Lake Elizabeth, would
make for a wonderful autumn event.

Flickers
Movies, food and wine could be perfectly linked to a great weekend away in winter.

There are very few non-mainstream films shown in the district covered by this report. An
opportunity exists to conduct a Food and Wine Film Festival in Lorne during the quieter months.
The Lorne picture theatre is one of the last original art deco theatres in regional Victoria; it would
provide the perfect venue for such a festival.

Local restaurants can participate by creating events within their dining rooms that follow the
themes of the films. Wineries can choose to be affiliated to the venues of their choice. Each
food and wine outlet can devise its own way to complement the cinematic program.
There are a number of film industry members who holiday in Lorne and a very good program
could be devised.

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Barunah Plains
The magnificent Barunah Plains property is one of the jewels of the district. Joan and Graham
Mills the former owners restored the property to its former glory. An annual woolshed dance with
traditional farmhouse food and great wine with a round of golf for the recovery could make for a
seminal event.

The Little River Earth Sanctuary

The sanctuary at Little River is as strong a naturalist attraction as are the Penguins at Philip
Island. The homestead boasts murals that rival the Exhibition Buildings in Carlton; they are by
the same artist.

The property, with a considered food and wine component, could grow substantially and allow
the conservation work to grow with some security. A post-dinner package with the mansion
at Werribee Park could start to develop such a concept. The conservation park would be of
significant interest to both locals and internationals.

These regional events are just the tip of the iceberg: with good planning many more can be
developed.

ACTION
Determine a priority and time-frame for the implementation of a series of
regional events.

Determine which events can be linked to the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival.

A coordinated program would see many special events within the district
throughout the year, attracting both visitors and media. The key is in the
content, timing and detail.

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Competitive Analysis
Cutting the Edge

Statistical surveys by Tourism Victoria indicate that there has been a decline in the awareness
of the food and wine sector in the GOR region.

Other parts of the district covered by this report have also had a drop in the amount of
recognition that the district attracts for food and wine.

During the same period there has been a significant growth in visitation numbers to the district
putting it at the top of preferred Victorian holiday destinations out of Melbourne. The district has
a distinct competitive advantage that can be significantly attributed to the profile of the GOR.

Competitive analysis of the district in terms of food and wine can be measured in a number of
ways:
• Surveys
• Guides
• Awards
• Media Coverage
• Turnover

The food guides show a drop in highly-rated restaurants, but show a marked increase in the
overall number of listings that have “made the cut.” There seems to be a strong middle market
sector that is growing rapidly. The edge for this district, in terms of food and wine, is that most
sectors are represented and are ready for a coordinated multi-layered campaign to lift the food
and wine profile of the region as a whole.

No other region has the scale of attractions to be able to develop a stronger image than this
region.

The reason that the food and wine sector within the region has not attained prominence is that
the GOR sector has experienced very strong growth without the need to feature food and wine
to increase visitation. The farming hinterland relies on primary produce of beef and lamb without
the need to develop specialty products. However, the economic climate and strong competition
has started to change these parameters.

Overall success lies in the ability to increase visitation during the historically quieter months.
Other areas such as the Yarra Valley and Mornington Peninsula seem to have recognized this to
a greater degree than this region.

There is little in the way of recognized regional produce in the district. Established specialty
food producers in the region have grown very strongly but they are not recognized in a regional
sense.

Cardoso jamon, Meredith Cheese and such are more common on Melbourne menus than within
the district.

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Farmed mussels are a premium local product that has never been successfully marketed in a
manner that reflects the product’s very special status. There is specialty point-of-sale equipment
that retailers can use to sell mussels at optimum conditions live: there are such machines selling
mussels from the Bellarine in Sorrento but not on this side of the bay.

Whilst there are a number of good wholesale seafood outlets in the district the retail consumer
is often disappointed in the quality of seafood sold in the region. An opportunity exists to
improve the quality of seafood sold in the district. With such a high coastal tourist profile such a
scheme is a high priority.

In the last 5 years there have not been many new specialty regional food products to emerge in
the region.

During the same period the wines of the Bellarine Peninsula and Geelong, on the other hand,
have had success with new enterprises emerging and established wineries gaining profile, but
the wine industry still lacks strong regional recognition. There is a conflict between Geelong
and the Bellarine Peninsula as to a regional wine brand.

Historically it can be argued that food and wine have played a very significant part in the
establishment of tourism in the area. Queenscliff, with the Queenscliff Hotel, kick-started the
restoration of the town’s grand hotels and also the food and wine service of the region. For
many years Queenscliff enjoyed a very strong reputation for food. The Queenscliff Hotel was
also a pioneer in the use of regional wines.

Now all the grand hotels are restored and while the ratings have dropped the whole town has
attained a comfortable equilibrium.

ARE YOU BEING SERVED?

Service levels in many regional hospitality businesses have been identified as needing attention.
The provision of training in “front of house” locally is restricted to short courses predominantly
targeted at entry level skills. To further these skills this report recommends the establishment of
‘training nodes’ at experienced venues where high level skills can be developed by both local
and visiting industry professionals. This form of training already exists in a few forward thinking
businesses but the practice is rare. Like minded businesses can initiate short courses targeted
at raising the bar in respect to the front of house services provided.
In Queenscliff Ross Ebbels has initiated such workshops that with other industry professionals
can extend the practice through out the region.
The best trainers are often those working at the top level of their trade.
Experienced front of house professionals from all levels of the industry can be identified and a
program of professional development can be implemented in central locations.
The costs in bringing the best trainers to the area can be shared by participating businesses to
provide a very cost effective program to lift the service skills in the district.

Geelong has also fallen behind in its recognition for food and wine.

While there has been a growth in informal Japanese budget-style eateries in Geelong, there
is a distinct lack of authentic Asian restaurants. Most of the Asian restaurants in the district still
serve a very Anglicised form of Asian cooking. The growth in modern Asian restaurants has not
reached any rural areas to a significant degree but this region, and Geelong in particular, has
the advantage of proximity to the Asian enclave of Footscray to attract new Vietnamese and
other cuisines to the area.

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The new Asian food revolution can also bring the ingredients needed by ‘fusion’ or crossover
cooking that marks many modern restaurants. There are some signs of change with a new
Asian grocery in Geelong, but most of the fresh Asian produce grown around Geelong and
Bannockburn goes to Melbourne.

The greatest growth in food-service in major cities has come from the Asian sector. The district
is well positioned for real growth in this area.

Awareness for the food and wine sector comes from strong marketing campaigns, ‘Hero’
products including wine and industry ambassadors. Awarded destination wineries and
restaurants also attract a very high level of media attention. There are significant opportunities
for iconic food and wine attractions to emerge. The Moonlight Head Hotel promises to bring a
significant new, high quality attraction to the area. The Otway Fly has the potential to develop
into a good food and wine destination. Chris’s at Beacon Point promises to continue its iconic
status with the new restaurant.
High profile “ambassadors” like Stefano de Pieri and Alla Wolf Tasker have done enormous
amounts of work to promote their regions. Both of these pioneers have a deep understanding
of the big picture. Stefano rarely promotes himself directly, even when given significant media
opportunities; his agenda encompasses the whole region. Alla Wolf Tasker works tirelessly with
regional tourism bodies from all regions as well as in her own. James Halliday with wine and
Suzanne Halliday with the Yarra Valley Food Group have passionately promoted their region
and also the whole industry.

This area is still finding its feet in recognizing that regional recognition is one of the most
effective ways to establish a solid base for one’s own business.

Tourism Victoria has just undertaken a focused campaign for the Yarra Valley and I have
been informed that the GOR is next in line for such attention. This will help to position the
region but core products and services need to be ready for such a campaign. A competitive
edge is developed from a clear point of difference. The Yarra Valley has a number of very
sophisticated operators with multi-layered enterprises. There has been significant investment in
the wine sector from forward thinking companies, giving the Yarra a solid foundation and good
opportunities for smaller operators with the same aims. The turning point came for the Yarra
when Moet et Chandon invested in Domaine Chandon. They raised the bar for other wineries in
the State.
Domaine Chandon very quickly abandoned the restaurant concept. On a daily basis they
serve very basic snacks to highlight the wines and educational tours of the champagne-making
process. However, the winery regularly reinforces its relationship to food with one-off iconic
dinners presented by the very best of Australian and international chefs. Tetsuya Wakuda was
the guest for the latest of these events.

De Bortoli also reinforces its culinary profile on a regular basis, concentrating on mainly Italian
‘super-cooks’ such as Antonio Carluccio.

The latest addition to the Yarra Valley wine and food tourism sector is the new modern art
gallery at Tarrawarra housing the Besen art collection in a monumental Alan Powell building.
This significant collection of modern Australian art in an iconic building has added another
dimension to the attractions of the Yarra valley. There is a small carefully-considered café, but
the main attraction is the art. It is much more cost-effective to invest in art as opposed to food.

In this area, the Scotchman’s Hill Group is the leader in pursuing a cultural connection to wine
and food. The large musical events at Spray Farm have significantly raised the profile and

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added to the competitiveness of the area.

The competitive edge can come from major wineries with lateral associations to opera, art,
architecture, jazz, blues, and guest star foodies.

A much more cost-effective awareness can grow from passionate local individuals who, if
embraced by a region, create interest far beyond their personal enterprises.

Passionate individuals cannot be created but innovators and pioneers can be encouraged
without major investment.

The biggest threats to the competitive edge of a region within the food and wine sector are the
chain restaurants for food and mega-wineries for wine. The Hunter Valley is a good example of
an overdeveloped region for wine tourism.

Once a food concept is adopted by mass marketers it is destroyed. Inevitably the locals
abandon those areas. Real estate prices go through the roof, secondary operators hide behind
franchised concepts and once popular diverse areas become known as tourist traps.

In Melbourne this has been called the “Lygon St effect.” Once a great celebration of Latin
culture, Lygon St is now a parody of itself with spivvy spruikers prowling the sidewalk.

The Great Ocean Road’s major centres are at the cusp of such a period and places, such as
Lorne, are in danger of succumbing to such homogenisation that its image could forever be
changed from the ‘jewel of the coast’ to the town that visitors in search of good food and wine
may seek to avoid. Ersatz bakeries such as Bakers’ Delight, Brumbies, Subway, faux pizza in
the form of La Porchetta and such are the warning signs: by the time the large operators like
McDonald’s arrive in small communities it is often too late.

The next generation of franchised chains is much more subtle; they appear to be small unique
owner-operated enterprises but they are just the same. Very little local or fresh product is used.
They offer no relationship to a region other than cosmetic stylistic decoration usually in the form
of emotional nostalgic images and photographs.

Wine retail has taken a similar parallel path with chains of retailers seeking to dominate the
scene. In Geelong we have four very important wine shops that really add a depth to wine retail
in that city. One of them, Randall Pollard, has done much to promote the image of the district.

There is no way of turning back the clock and hoping that franchised operators will disappear,
but we can recognize the threat and take heed of the outcomes from the strategic mistakes that
some big companies have made.

The most significant error of judgment recently was made by Lion Nathan and Toohey’s in
thinking that by buying iconic Victorian pubs, restaurants and bars they could significantly
increase their market share of their tapped beer. Lion Nathan did not fully understand why
these local operations were successful and they underestimated the discrimination and loyalty
of a neighbourhood market. In the process they have destroyed some great businesses. Lion
Nathan has now resold, or is still selling, most of their recent acquisitions for significant losses,
in turn, creating new opportunities for local operators.

There have also been some iconic local businesses built up by strong personalities that have
recently changed hands. Succession in the food and wine industry is very difficult. The passion

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is not often carried forward by the second generation. Focus and passion need to be nurtured
and stimulated for them to grow. The events and activities outlined in this report can help
achieve these aims.

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Conclusions
The Geelong-Otway Region has the potential to develop into Victoria’s premier food and wine
destination.

The Yarra Valley and the Mornington Peninsula are the most active areas in the promotion of
food and wine in the state. Mildura with Stefano de Pieri has shown how a larger than life profile
can be created for a region with commitment and passion.

The advantage that our region enjoys lies in the attractions and profile of the Great Ocean
Road.

But if the food and wine sector is not focused or developed with a regional perspective this
advantage can be lost to a discount style of mass tourism.

Geelong faces a very real danger of not being able to shed its poor food and wine service image
without real commitment from the whole industry. Town planners need to be strong in resisting
the invasion of fast food and other chains in order to maintain the carefree costal/country image
that the district enjoys. [Geelong has one of the highest concentrations of McDonald’s outlets
per capita in the country.]

The hinterland, with its rich soils and good rainfall, has the potential to lead the way in specialist
beef, lamb, pork, cheese and vegetable production if it can break free from the safe traditional
farming activities that have dominated the region. Often pressure comes in times of economic
hardship but it would be sad to wait for those conditions before innovation in the agricultural
sector is forced to emerge.

The growth of organic, biodynamic and other sustainable forms of agriculture can give small- to
medium-size producers a considerable edge and need to be developed and explored. Access to
markets needs to be maintained and improved and the wholesale market relocation will impact
severely on the competitive edge that the whole region enjoys.

The attraction of experienced new players into the district is a top priority in maintaining a
competitive edge.
Professional development in the service sector is a strong priority.

The attraction of authentic Asian operators should be encouraged.

Industry visits need to be an integral part of the culture of the local food and wine industry to
develop a competitive advantage.

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Infrastructure
There are many separate food and wine development groups in the region covered by this
report.

GOT has a well-developed administrative structure already in place. By creating a new

department within the GOT structure, devoted to the development of the food and wine profile
of the area, this new body can work with individual organizations to efficiently deliver the
desired outcomes of this strategy and coordinate other initiatives. Once the executive of GOT
determines its commitment to the recommendations of the strategy, the size of the department
can be determined. It would be the responsibility of this new department to work within GOT
with identified specialist partners and tourism bodies as detailed in the proposals to bring about
the recommended outcomes.

The coordinator or manager of this department, who would be responsible to GOT, would need
to have a strong background within the tourism and food/wine industry with a proven track
record of:

• Event management
• Media Relations
• Communications
• Professional development
• Food and wine product marketing
• Journalism

Many highly experienced industry professionals use the district for their own recreation. Some
also have second residences within the area.

A separate ‘think tank’ or ‘Friends of the District’ group could be started to bring a vast amount
of experience into the implementation of the strategy.

Some of these people include:

Dure Dara Restaurant and Caterers’ Association
John van Handel Principal Stokehouse Prince of Wales Group
Stephanie Alexander Author and principal Richmond Hill Larder
Trevor Mast Winemaker Mt Langi Ghiran
Claude Forell Journalist
Jill Dupleix Writer Times Cook London
Patricia O’Donnell Mietta Foundation
Fred Schepisi Film Maker
Iain Hewitson Television Cook and Restaurateur
Doug Aiton Journalist
Jo Saba Fashion Guru
Kerry Greenwood Author
Dr Patricia Edgar Educator and producer of children’s films
Don Edgar Educator
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 Chris Connell Designer
Jenny Bannister Fashion designer
Richard Thomas Cheese-maker

This list is just a small part of a very large group; none of these people have been approached
as yet. All these people and many others not named have a personal stake in the area. They
may not have time to sit on committees but a strong and developing network of such friends
would be able to lend considerable synergy in directing local food and wine culture in a positive
and sustainable direction.

ACTION
GOT to assess report and allocate funding for infrastructure and scope of the
project.

GPT to evaluate the scale of administrative infrastructure required, create a

position with required responsiblities and outcomes outlined.

Create a timeline for implementation of the strategy.

Initiate a network of Friends of the Region.

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END NOTE
The development of a strong food and wine profile in the region enriches many sectors.

The author of this report has tried to focus on the long-term goal of developing a sustainable
strategy that would continue the work of the many pioneers who have made this district what it
is. The criticisms of certain sectors are made with affection.

Since the first draft of this report there have been a number of developments mooted in the draft
that will influence the development of food and wine tourism in the district.

The funding for Ring Road around Geelong has been confirmed, some very good work has
been done by GOT to highlight the importance to the region of the possible relocation of the
Footscray market to Werribee. The lease of the Customs House restaurant site has been
allocated. GOT has had discussions with the Mietta Foundation to begin to develop the Mietta
Food Wine and Travel writers prize concept.
Sadly Mt. Emu Creek Cheeses have ceased business in the district.
The campaign to save the Mill Markets has begun in earnest.
The full effect of the switch to Federal Awards on Jan 1 is starting to be understood, by the
hospitality industry. These changes will put some upward pressure on food and wine prices
in the casual, week-end breakfast and café sector and preparation for this change is very
important.

There is no denying the natural beauty and forgiving climate of the region. The area is truly
blessed with a magnificent environment. A well-developed food and wine industry adds to the
enjoyment of life for both visitors and residents of a region.

A mutual understanding between the food and wine sectors is paramount to the success of a
region in terms of all the other factors that attract visitors and residents. To share a table and a
wine is fundamental to peace, happiness and prosperity.

This document is in no way a rigid statement. The strategy can be developed and nurtured to
create a good deal of enjoyment as well as a firm base for the development of tourism business
in the district.

I welcome all comments and suggestions of the strategies put forward and perhaps a bite and
gargle afterwards.

George Biron
Sunnybrae Restaurant Associates
Cape Otway Road Birregurra 3242
Telephone and Facsimile 61 3 52362276
Mobile 0407 342 984
Email gbiron@bigpond.net.au

This document has been prepared by George Biron of Sunnybrae Restaurant Associates for Geelong Otway Tourism to assist
in the strategic development of the region’s food and wine industry.  Whilst individuals and organisations will be encouraged
to action many of the initiatives, the intellectual property of this strategy belongs to George Biron of Sunnybrae Restaurant
Associates. This document cannot be reproduced or initiatives cannot be undertaken without written consent from both George
Biron and Geelong Otway.
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