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Sauces
for salad dressings see SALADS asparagus beef grilled steak roast saute chicken roast fish game lamb chops roast cutlets pasta pork potatoes (new) shellfish veal hollandaise, maltaise bordelaise chasseur, italienne italienne perigaux chasseur, perigaux ramolade aurore, beurre blanc perigaux chasseur soubise reform italienne, pesto aurore beurre blanc newburg, remoulade aurore, italienne
Adobo
vinegar garlic chillis. [ with Philippine food, especially pork, chicken , fish and vegetables ] soya sauce pepper
Aioli
for 6 6 cloves 6 1 garlic yolks lemon 1 tspn 1 tspn 250 ml salt white pepper olive oil
Mix crushed garlic and salt and add yolks, pepper and lemons juice. Whisk well and add olive oil in a thins stream whisking continuously. You should be able to stand up a spoon in it.
Albert
Butter sauce plus grated horseradish, mustard and vinegar
Alfredo
butter grated parmesan cream, black pepper
Amatriciana
300 g 2 cloves 1 800 g bacon (pancetta) garlic carrot chilli tomato puree 1 7 leaves 1 stick 2 glasses 150 g onion basil celery dry white wine Pecorino Romano
Fry finely-chopped onion, garlic, carrot and celery with a little chilli until onion is golden. Add chopped bacon and fry briefly (not to crisp). Add a third of the cheese grated and the wine and simmer 3 mins. Add tomato and cook on very low heat for at least 20 mins. Add pasta which has been cooked for 2 mins less than recommended, and cook for 2 mins together. Sprinkle with the rest of the grated cheese.
Andalouse
500 ml 2 tblspn mayonnaise pimento 4 tblspn tomato juice or ketchup
Archiduc
Supreme plus reduced champagne.
Aurore
for 300 ml Veloute 300 ml 1 tblspn 2 tblspn 1 tbslpn chicken/fish stock flour tomato puree butter salt, pepper 1 tblspn butter
Make veloute sauce. Whisk in tomato puree. Take off heat and add butter. [ for fish, veal, pork ]
Barbados cream
see PUDDINGS
Bearnaise
for 8 4 tblspn 2 tblspn 1 tspn 3 tblspn 1 pinch vinegar/lemon juice dry white wine Dijon mustard tarragon cayenne 2 2 4 250 g shallot yolks butter salt and pepper bay leaves
Mix vinegar, wine, mustard, finely-chopped shallot. Boil and reduce. In double boiler add yolks and whisk with melted butter until thick, then add tarragon and cayenne. If it curdles, add slowly to a tablespoon of cream.
Bechamel
2 oz 2 tblspn butter flour bay or nutmeg Cook flour in hot butter to creamy mass. Remove from heat and slowly stir in heated milk (or milk mixed a little warm stock) stirring continuously to prevent lumps. Bring to boil still stirring and when it start to thicken cook another 2 mins - about 15 to 20 mins in all. Add salt, pepper, bay/nutmeg. 1 pint milk salt, pepper
Bercy
2 shallots arrowroot Gently fry finely-chopped onions. Add wine and reduce to one third. Thicken with arrowroot. 5 oz white wine
Beurre blanc
500 g 2 tblspn 6 tblspn butter shallot white wine vinegar pepper lemon
Boil chopped shallots in vinegar and an equal volume of water until much reduced. Gradually add butter while beating. Add salt and pepper and a squeeze or two of lemon juice but do not allow to boil or it will curdle. If it does add ice-cold water. After 5 mins it should be thick, creamy and pale. [ for fish, especially poached salmon, and new potatoes ]
Bigarade
1 2 oz 4 oz 1 2 tblspn 2 tblspn 2 tspn onion mushrooms carrots lemon plain flour tomato juice bouquet garni redcurrant jelly 1 glass 1 stick 2 rashers 1 2 oz 2 glasses pint celery streaky bacon orange dripping red wine stock salt, pepper port
Fry finely-chopped onion, celery, mushrooms and bacon to soft. Add carrots and fry till onions straw colour. Add enough flour to absorb fat and stir continuously, cooking until it turns caramel colour. Remove from heat and slowly add wine, tomato juice, and stock. Bring slowly to the boil, stirring continuously, add bouquet, blend in the juice and grated rind of lemon and orange. Simmer covered for 30 mins.
Bordelaise
300 ml red wine shallot 1 tblspn demi-glace/meat glaze butter
thyme pepper
bay salt
Mix finely-chopped shallot with other ingredients and reduce to two-thirds. Add equal quantity of demi-glace or meat glaze, and butter. Reduce, strain. It can be thickened with a little flour. [ used with grilled meat ]
Brandy butter
see Miscellany
Bread
for 8 2 8 750 ml large white loaf onion cloves milk 2 6 sprigs 4 floz bay leaves thyme double cream nutmeg
Remove crust, tear into small pieces and leave to dry slightly. Stud onion with cloves and put in milk with bay, salt, pepper, thyme and nutmeg. Bring to the boil and allow to stand for at least 20 mins. Add crumbled bread and simmer 20 mins. Lift out thyme, onion and bay. Add cream, and bring to the boil, whisking thoroughly.
Cardinal
Add a little brandy, butter and cream to lobster sauce, and a touch of cayenne
Chantilly
for 8 250ml 2 tspn double cream vanilla extract 4 tblspn sugar
Chasseur
for 8 125 ml 100 g (200g white wine mushrooms tomatoes) 25 g 1 clove 125 l shallots garlic stock
Gently fry chopped shallots for 2 or 3 mins. Add chopped garlic and sliced mushrooms, and cook over low heat for 3 mins. Add wine and reduce. If using tomatoes add them chopped at this stage and stock. Simmer for 5 to 10 mins and add a little chopped parsley or tarragon. [ with fried steaks, chops, chicken ]
Chaud-froid
25 g butter 25 g plain flour
900 ml
stock
5 tblspn
double cream
Lightly fry flour in butter and gradually add hot stock. Simmer for about 1 hour to reduce to about half, stirring occasionally. Add salt, pepper and cream.
Cocktail 1
for 8 1 dl dl 3 dl tomato ketchup cream mayonnaise worcester sauce lemon juice
Cocktail 2
for 8 1 tblspn 1 dl 3 dl 1 tblspn anchovy essence cream mayonnaise parsley 1 tblspn tblspn cayenne salt, pepper brandy tarragon
Cucumber relish
for 8 1 4 tblspn 2 cucumber coriander leaves grated root ginger limes juice 1 2 tblspn 2 tblspn small red onion dessicated coconut toasted ground cumin little chilli
Grate cucumber, toss with salt and leave 30 mins. Squeeze out the water and mix with other ingredients and refrigerate.
Cumberland
for 8 300g 1 35 g 200ml redcurrant jelly lemon root ginger port cornflour Heat port with redcurrant jelly. Cut citrus peel into strips, squeeze in citrus juice, add the other ingredients and reduce. 2 2 2 tspn 100 ml oranges shallots mustard powder orange liqueur
Curry
ground ginger garlic turmeric stock onion chilli cumin coriander/garam masala salt and pepper fenugreek
Cover with stock the ginger, crushed garlic, turmeric, finely-chopped onion, and pour over meat. When meat is tender add chilli, cumin, coriander (or garam masala, cinnamon, clove, cardamom).
Curry mayonnaise
Soften chopped onion in oil. Add mayonnaise, curry powder, mango chutney.
Demi glace
for 1 l 1 60 g 50 g 3 tblspn 700 ml carrot green streaky bacon plain flour tomato paste stock 1 30 g onion butter bouquet garni salt and pepper
Fry diced carrot, onion and bacon for 10 mins to slightly brown. Gradually add stock and bouquet garni and simmer for 30 mins. Sauce should be shiny and coat the back of a spoon. OR Scraps of meat, bones, minced beef, sugar, onion and garlic in Mark 6 oven for 20 mins. When brown and tacky wash out oven dish with meat-stock, reduce, add salt and pepper, strain and add gelatine.
Diable
750 g 18 1 1 pinch shallots capers gherkin tomato cayenne 225 ml 1 tblspn 1 tblspn 1 tspn stock white wine vinegar mustard
Soften finely-chopped shallots for 2 or 3 mins. Add capers, gherkins, tomatoes and cook for 1 min. Add vinegar and wine, and reduce. Add mustard and stock, and cook low for 5 mins.
Diable 2
1 tblspn 1 150 ml glass 100 g 1 pinch flour carrot beef stock vinegar butter cayenne lots of pepper Lightly brown flour in half the butter. Add finely-chopped carrot, onion, leek, celery, mushroom and fry gently. Add tomato puree, beef stock, wine vinegar, bayleaves, cayenne, pepper. Boil to reduce. 2 1 glass 1 1 stick 3 2 tblspns bayleaf dry white wine leek celery mushrooms tomato puree
Espagnole
2 pints 2 oz 2 sprigs 2 fl oz 1 pinch brown stock carrots thyme white wine marjoram 1 oz 1 2 2 oz 1 pork belly onion bay leaves flour clove
Boil two-thirds of the stock. Fry roughly-diced pork for 5 mins to extract and remove fat, add finely-chopped vegetables and flavourings and add flour slowly to heated stock. Add rest of stock and simmer 1 hour, stirring continuously. {Add orange peel to make sauce bigarade, gherkins, capers and chervil to make sauce piquante.}
Garam masala
1 tspn 1 tspn 1 tspn 1 tspn cumin cloves peppercorns coriander 2 tspn 2 tspn 1 tspn 1 stick coriander cardamom bayleaf cinnamon
Grind and mix. Some versions also add tspn each of mace, nutmeg and fennel seeds.
Gherkin
Make bechamel sauce, add shredded pickled gherkins and lemon.
Gooseberry
for 8 250 g 10 g gooseberries flour 50 g 1 tblspn butter caster sugar
Simmer gooseberries, sugar and 150 ml water until it turns yellow. Liquidise and sieve (avoids topping and tailing the fruit). Slightly cook the flour in a quarter of the butter. Add the fruit and bring to boil stirring continuously. Add the rest of the butter a bit at a time. Serve hot. [ good with goose ]
Gribiche
for 8 4 3 tblspn 2 tblspn 2 tspn 240 ml [ eggs shallot cornichon chives olive oil gherkin] 2 tspn 2 tblspn 3 tblspn 3 tblspn 2 tspn [1 tspn Dijon mustard capers flat-leaf parsley white-wine vinegar tarragon chervil]
Separately chop the yolks and the whites of two of the thoroughly hard-boiled eggs. Gradually whisk oil into a mixture of the mustard, the other ingredients all finely-chopped and the vinegar. Stir in chopped egg.
Harissa
225 g 1 tblspn 1 tblspn 1 tblspn chillies coriander mint salt 1 head 1 tblspn 3 tblspn 1 tblspn garlic caraway seeds coriander leaves olibe oil
Whizz ingredients in a blender. If kept float a layer of olive oil on it and it will keep a long time, especially in the fridge.
Hollandaise
for 8 250 g 2 tblspn 4 butter yolks salt Put yolks, (pinch of caster sugar), salt and pepper in blender. Add hot lemon juice. Blend for 6 secs and while motor is still running add foaming butter in a steady stream. Sauce should be thick and smooth in 35 to 40 secs. If too thick add teaspoon or so of hot water. Serve immediately. Without blender: whisk yolks with 3 tablespoons of water in a double boiler. Remove from heat and add melted butter a little at a time. Add pepper and lemon juice. [ for asparagus ] 1 pinch sugar white pepper lemon juice (plus perhaps 3 tblspn white win vinegar)
Houriya
for 8 600 g 4 tspn 1 150 ml carrots harissa lemons juice olive oil 3 tspn 1 tblspn 3 tspn 1 tblspn ground cumin wine vinegar honey flat-leaf parsley (or coriander)
Cook chopped carrots to tender and puree with all the other ingredients except parsley. Add salt and pepper. Serve cold with chopped parsley on top. [ will make a dip for lamb pieces or flat-bread as starter ]
Italienne
for 8 (750 ml) 1 tblspn 100 g 600 ml butter onion mushroom brown sauce: meat stock, arrowroot, water/madeira 200 ml 50 g lean ham salt, pepper dry white wine
Cook finely-chopped onion in butter for 5 mins to soft. Add finely-chopped mushrooms and stir over high heat to soft. Add wine and boil to pint. Add brown sauce, finely-cubed ham and bring to the boil. [ for roast beef, steak, veal, pasta ]
Lobster
litre 1 lobster oil peppercorns 20 g 10 g celery tomato pure 2 glasses white wine 50 g 50 g 1 1 clove 250 g litre onion carrots bayleaf garlic tomatoes fish stock
Cook lobster in very hot oil briefly until red all over. Add finely-chopped vegetables, herbs and spices and cook briefly without adding too much colour. Add brandy and set light to it. Ad wine, chopped tomato, tomato pure, and simmer 25 mins. Remove lobster and reduce liquid to half. Add fish stock and reduce, stirring frequently.
Madeira 3 tblspn 2 tblspn 3 tblspn 1 tblspn butter ham onion celery salt, pepper Soften finely-chopped onions and celery in butter. Blend in flour and cook on low heat to nut brown. Add stock, chopped ham and herbs. Simmer 2 hours to 1 pint. Add Madeira and a little butter. 1 oz 1 pint pint flour stock Madeira herbs
Maltaise
To pint Hollandaise sauce add the juice of orange and its shredded rind which has been blanched 2 mins in boiling water. [ for asparagus ]
Masala
1 lb 3 cloves onions garlic 1 tblspn 2 lbs ginger tomatoes
Fry chopped onions covered on low heat for 20 mins, then uncover and fry to brown. Add crushed garlic and ginger. Cook for 4 mins. Add tomatoes. Simmer 10 mins. Liquidise.
Mayonnaise
for 8 4 1 2 tspn yolks lemon English (or Dijon) mustard 600 ml 2 tblspn sunflower or groundnut oil wine vinegar
The fresher the eggs the easier to make. Have eggs and oil at room temperature or slightly cooler. Add tiny dribbles of oil to a mixture of egg yolk with a smidgeon of English mustard and beat until they start being securely amalgamated, then oil can be added by the tablespoonful, and finally in a steady thin stream. Every now and again add a little lemon juice. Beat until sauce goes through being thick cream to smooth, shining ointment stiff enough to stand in hillocks. Mustard, salt and pepper not really needed. For separated mayonnaise see RESCUES. Store at about 60F with surface covered in a thin film of oil and dish covered with plastic film.
Melba
14 oz 3 tblspn raspberries sugar 2 tblspn 1 Grand Marnier lemon
Mix the juice of the lemon with the rest, bring to the boil and sieve.
Melitzanosalata
for 8 3 6 tblspn (2 tspn aubergines oilve oil tahini paste) 2 cloves 1 garlic lemon salt and pepper
2 tblspn
coriander or parsley
Prick aubergines two or three times and bake on a tray in Mark 6 (200C 400F) oven for about 40 mins, turning once. Liquidise flesh with garlic and most of the oil and half the juice of a lemon. When pureed add tahini if used, salt and lemon then add the rest of the oil and lemon to taste.
Michel
shallots bouquet garni pepper flour Fry chopped shallots to straw, add chopped smoked back bacon and turn briefly over high heat. Add bouqet garni, stock, pepper and a squeeze or two of orange. Add flour and simmer 20 mins to reduce. smoked back bacon stock orange
Mornay
for 8 50 g 50 g 600 ml 2 blade 2 butter flour milk mace onion salt, pepper 2 pinch 2 pinch 150 g 160 g cheese cream grated gruyere, parmesan or cheddar nutmeg cayenne English mustard powder
Stir flour and mustard powder into melted butter. Cook, stirring 1 min. Remove from heat, add milk, stir well and simmer 2 mins. Add mace, salt, pepper, chopped onion, and slowly add milk and heat 1 or 2 mins but do not boil, beat in grated cheese and warm on low heat for 5 to 7 mins but do not boil; add pepper, nutmeg and cayenne. [ for fish or vegetables ]
Mustard
3 tblspn Dijon mustard corn flour chicken stock double cream
Warm mixture of mustard and stock for a few minutes, add corn flour and double cream and keep warm.
Nantua
Bechamel, crayfish puree, cayenne and cream
Newburg
2 tblspn 2 glasses 2 butter dry sherry yolks 1 tub thick cream salt paprika
Simmer sherry and butter 3 mins, add cream, salt and paprika. Pour over beaten yolks and cook in double boiler till smooth. [ for shellfish or lobster ]
10
Normande
for 6 5 oz 1 oz 1 pint 1 butter flour fish stock shallot bouquet garni 2 oz 3 tblspn 3 poached oysters double cream yolks salt, pepper mushrooms
Cook flour in 1 oz butter for 3 mins. Add stock and bring to the boil, add chopped shallot, mushroom and herbs, and simmer 20 mins. Strain, add juice of boiled oysters and mushrooms and reduce by a third. Beat cream and egg yolks together and whisk in with remaining butter.
Prigaux
750 ml 100 g demiglace chopped truffle 500 ml truffle essence
{optional extra: you can add a mixture of lightly-fried chopped onion and smoked ham, plus a little Bual} [ for sautd meat, poultry, game ]
Pesto
for 8 125 g 20 g 30 g basil celery leaves pine kernels 20 g 60 g 350 ml parsley ricotta olive oil
Piquante
see Espagnole
Portugaise
onion tomatoes bay rosemary
11
thyme stock
Lightly fry in closed pan chopped onion, tomatoes, thyme, bay and rosemary for 10 mins. Add flour and when that is brown remove from the heat and add stock a little at a time, letting each bit come to the boil. Reduce.
Provenale
to make 1 l 2 cloves 75 g 200 ml 20 g garlic tomatoes dry white wine bacon 1 tspn 1 tblspn parsley thyme tomato puree bay
Gently fry finely-chopped garlic with chopped bacon for a few minutes. Add bay and chopped tomatoes and reduce. Add tomato puree and thyme and simmer 10 mins. Add chopped parsley. [ suitable for eggs, fish, shellfish ]
Putanesca
for 8 600 g 8 200 g 3 1 1 tblspn spaghetti unsalted anchovy fillets black olives small chilli peppers onion chopped parsley 3 tblspn 3 cloves 1 tblspn (1 tblspn 600 g olive oil garlic salted capers basil) plum tomatoes, peeled and pured salt
Fry finely-chopped onion, and when softened add and fry finely-chopped garlic and anchovies which have been crushed into a paste. Before the garlic browns, add the chopped olives, chopped capers, pureed tomato, chillis (and chopped basil). Add salt, simmer until thickened about 25 mins. [serve poured over spaghetti. Cheese is not served with this]
Ragu
for 6 8 oz 4 oz 3 oz 1 glass 1 1 minced beef chicken livers bacon or ham white wine carrot onion 1 3 tspn 2 glasses small piece celery tomato puree stock nutmeg marjoram rosemary
Brown chopped bacon lightly. Add chopped onion, carrot, celery, and brown. Add beef and turn till that is also brown. Add chicken livers and after 2 or 3 mins the tomato puree and then wine. Add salt, pepper, nutmeg, marjoram, rosemary, and stock. Simmer covered for 30 mins. (Add cupful of cream and egg if you like.)
Ramolade
for 8 6 onions 1 kg button mushrooms
12
100 g 20 g
butter flour
1l
chicken stock
Fry chopped onions and mushrooms in butter till the onions are translucent. Add stock and reduce to almost half. Make a paste with the flour and some butter and stir in some of the hot stock then add to the main mixture. Keep stirring over medium heat until smooth and shiny. Add salt and pepper. {This sauce from P Lambe Royal Cookery, 1726, is not to be confused with the French remoulade.} [ serve with roast chicken ]
Red wine
Two parts Portugaise to one part demi-glace and double that volume of red wine. Reduce to two-thirds.
Reform
for 8 60 g 25 g 1 1 tblspn 6 1 1 carrot celery sprig thyme vinegar peppercorns gherkin eggs white 60 g 3 25 g 1 tblspn 600 ml 2 onion bay leaves butter redcurrant jelly stock mushrooms
Fry the chopped vegetables. Add crushed peppercorns, vinegar and reduce by two-thirds Add redcurrent jelly. Bring to boil and strain. [ serve with breadcrumbed lamb cutlets ]
Remoulade
pint 1 tspn 1 tspn 1 tspn mayonnaise chervil parsley onion 1 tspn 1 tspn 1 tspn chopped capers gherkins tarragon
Blend the finely-chopped herbs and vegetables into the mayonnaise. [ suitable for shellfish and egg dishes ]
Robert
for 8 200 g 60 ml 1 clove 1 tblspn onions vinegar garlic sugar 50 g 2 1 tblspn mushrooms tomatoes English mustard bouquet garni
Gently fry covered the sliced onions till soft. Add chopped tomatoes and mushrooms plus a whole clove garlic and bouquet and cook 5 mins. Add vinegar and reduce to a quarter. Add stock and simmer 10 mins. Remove from heat and add mustard and sugar. Warm but do not boil.
Roux
13
Soubise
for litre 1 1 dl onion cream 4 dl bechamel
Add bechamel to chopped onion gently softened in butter. Cook 1 hr in Mark 1 (275F 140C) oven. Add cream. [ with roast lamb ]
Supreme
1 oz 1 oz pint pint butter flour strong chicken stock cream 3 yolks salt, pepper lemon juice
Make white roux with butter and flour. Pour on stock and stir to boiling. Take off heat and add mixture of yolks and cream plus a few drops of lemon juice.
Salsa verde
for 8 1 bunch 14 fillets 3 tblspn 230 ml 2 cloves 4 tblspn flat-leaf parsley anchovy dijon mustard olive oil salt and pepper garlic wine vinegar bunch 4 tblspn 2 tblspn 1 8 1 tblspn mint basil capers lemon tinned anchovies shallot
Whizz everything apart from the oil in a food processor and gradually add oil with machine running gradually to make it sloppy. Then add best part of a lemons juice, salt and pepper.
Salsa di pomodoro
1 1 1 stick 4 oz onion carrot celery meat 1 lb mushrooms tomatoes garlic oil
Fry chopped onion with carrot, celery and mushrooms. Add minced meat and garlic and then chopped tomatoes. Add salt, pepper, a pinch of sugar and herbs. (Pureed tomatoes can also be added.)
Suzette
1 tblspn vanilla sugar 5 tblspn maraschino liqueur
14
5 tblspn 5 tblspn
kirsch curaao
Add half the booze to hot butter, stir and light. When flames die add pancakes and flavoured sugar. Add rest of booze, light again and serve.
Mix ingredients with pint of water and boil slowly, stirring. Simmer 10 mins. Add salt.
Tapenade
for 8 300 g 40 g (80 g olives capers blanched almonds) pepper Puree olives, garlic, capers, anchovies and almonds if used. While machine is running add olive oil. Add pepper. 2 cloves 10 fillets 100 ML garlic anchovy olive oil
Tartare
for 8 300 ml 2 tspn 1 tspn (1 mayonnaise capers chives medium onion) 1 tblspn 3 2 tblspn double cream cocktail gherkins parsley
Thai curry
4 5cm 4 1 stick 1 tspn dried mild chillis root ginger shallots lemon grass limes zest coriander seeds (or coriander root) 4 5cm 4 cloves 6 2 tblspn 1 tblspn mild fresh chillis, galangal (or more root ginger) garlic lime leaves shrimp paste (or 1 tblspn fish sauce) oil
15
200 ml 500 ml 3
75 g 3 tblspn
Mix ingredients.
La veloute
pint veal, chicken or fish stock salt, pepper flour
1 tblspn butter
Bring stock to the boil. Lightly fry the flour in the butter and whisk into the stock. Boil, whisking constantly. Add salt and pepper and simmer 15 to 30 mins. (Add egg yolks.)
White sauce
see Bechamel
16