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THE LACE
How To Style, Care & Maintain Lace Wigs Without Sacrificing Your Natural Hair
WIG BIBLE
By MORGAN R. GANTT
Morgan R. Gantt
Foreword by Nelson Vercher
Disclaimer: Readers are strongly cautioned to consult with a dermatologist or other licensed beauty care professional before following the techniques described in this book, and to adapt the techniques in this book to meet the readers individual needs. The Lace Wig Bible is based on information from sources believed to be reliable, and every effort has been made to make the book as complete and accurate as possible based on information available as of the printing date, but its accuracy and completeness cannot be guaranteed. Despite the best efforts of author and publisher, the book may contain mistakes, and the reader should use the book only as a general guide and not as the ultimate source of information about the subject of this book. This book contains information that might be dated and is intended only to educate and entertain. The Lace Wig Bible is designed to provide information on lace wig application and care only. This information is provided and sold with the knowledge that the publisher and author do not offer any legal or other professional advice. In the case of a need for any such expertise consult with your dermatologist, licensed professional cosmetologist and the manufacturer of your lace wig. This book should serve only as a general guide and not as the ultimate source of subject information. This book is not intended to reprint all of the information available to the author or publisher on the subject, but rather to simplify, complement and supplement other available sources. The reader is encouraged to read all available material and to learn as much as possible about the subject. This book is sold without warranties of any kind, express or implied, and the publisher and author disclaim any liability, loss or damage caused by the contents of this book. If you do not wish to be bound by the foregoing cautions and conditions, you may return this book to the publisher for a full refund.
I dedicate this companion guide to women everywhere who strive to put their best foot forward on a daily basis. This is for all the women in the world who continue to inspire their families and communities without a hair out of place. May The Lace Wig Bible empower you to take your self-image into your own hands.
Copyright 2012 by Hair Library Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, by electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the Publisher. Inquries should be addressed to: Publishing Department, Hair Library Inc. 12 Desbrosses St, New York, NY, 10013. Gantt, Morgan R. The Lace Wig Bible 978-0-9839700-1-9 Illustrations by: Kyrk S. Corbin Edited by: Marco Cuoco Model: Ebony John Photography by: Morgan R. Gantt
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Acknowledgments Foreward Introduction Navigating The Lace Wig Bible Tools Key Page I Page III Page V Page VII Page IX Page 1 Page 18 Page 27 Page 37 Page 50 Page 58 Page 72 Page 104 Page 118 Page 126 Page 136 Page 139 Page 141
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10 10
10 Frequently Asked Questions About Lace Wigs 10 Mistakes to Avoid 10 Frequently Asked Questions For Your Stylist My First Lace Wig Protecting Your Natural Hair How To Apply Lace Wigs Styling A Lace Wig Caring For Your Lace Wig Modifying Your Lace Wig Expecting The Unexpected With Your Lace Wig Index About Nelson Vercher About The Author Morgan R. Gantt
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Bless Drilon, thank you for your dedication and hardwork. You are what some would consider a world way but your spirit and energy is always present. To Danilo Durante, thank you for being you! I love you and without your faith and belief in me I would not be living my dream. To Jerry Jack, you mentored me for 9 years and even in your physical absence you are felt and remembered as an amazing artist and friend. I miss you. Kyrk Corbin, you are a such talent! Thank you for taking my ideas to the next level and I look forward to returning the same creative contribution towards your dream! Ebony John, you are so beautiful inside and out. Thank you for sharing your essence with the world. To my sisters Aneka Braham and Rabia Syed, I love you girls so much! Thank you for all your supportive emails, late nights phone calls and texts. There is no time and space between us. Valence Williams, thank you for your mentorship, friendship and love. This is just the beginning! Lastly, I would like to thank all of the powerful women whom have been an example to myself and so many others: Dr. Karen Loney, Patricia King, Theresa Triola, Ms. Tillary, Allison Houtte, Annie Kolsen, Kristen Gibson, Sharri Sweeting, Afsheen Mazhar, Evelyn Gantt, Mildred Barnes and my loving mother, Karen D. Gantt.
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There are so many people that I want to acknowledge in written form and in spirit by sending waves of gratitude from my heart to yours. I would like to thank Eric Masters for planting the seed for this book so many years ago. We never had long conversations, but one day Eric stopped me on campus and said, Morgan, I hope you are taking pictures of all these different hairstyles you have, it would make a great book. We both laughed and walked away. The thought has never left me. I would like to give special thanks to my Sunshine Afternoon Dark Crew, A wonderful group of thought-provoking, creative individuals that inspire me every single day to dream big and make it happen no matter what. To my parents, Dr. Marvin & Karen Gantt, thank you for allowing me to take my own path, which you have dedicated your lives preparing me for. I love you very much. Sheila Homer, you are my hero, an inspiration and daily motivation. I would not have been able to accomplish so much without your patience and dedication. There is so much more to do! Monica David, thank you for your youthful spirit and diligent energy coordinating our projects! I cannot wait to see you! I
II
FOREWARD
This change is not only seen in their outer appearance, but in their whole energy, because the right hair can really make you confident in yourself. Also, stylists working with wigs and extensions generally have a unique experience with their clients. When you see a client change their hair and gain confidence even though she didnt think the transformation was possible, you will have her for life! It is always a good thing to achieve a new look instantly. This is why The Lace Wig Bible is a must! This book demonstrates, with very clear step by step instructions, everything you need to know regarding application and care for your lace wig. Back in the day, when my mother first started to wear wigs, she did not wear lace wigs and sometimes her wigs would not look as natural as they could. Because there has never been anything like The Lace Wig Bible, women had to figure out how to use wigs independently, therefore leaving lace wigs to be used by professionals on celebrities. But now, with Morgan R. Gantt and SWIGCHD products, everyone can have amazing hair! With the SWIGCHD Lace Wigs you can change your color, texture, and length just by following the directions of The Lace Wig Bible. So I commend Morgan R. Gantt for this truly insightful book thats not only great to look at but has all the right information. Enjoy and try a new look! XO Nelson Vercher
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INTRODUCTION
I was feeling extremely jaded about the dating scene in NYC and with no expectations thought to myself, Just wear the wig and have some fun tonight! Dinner was great, everything was going much better than I had expected. He looked me in the eyes and directly asked, Is that your real hair? It was as if he had been sitting on the question since the moment we first met! Just as confidently and directly as he asked me I replied to him, NO, is that a problem? With a smile he said, No. In that moment I laughed to myself, What else is he going to ask me? I wonder if my wig really did not matter for him. Two hours later we were walking on Sixth Avenue and in the impulse of a romantic moment he spun me around just beneath a street light and the brightest full moon you have ever seen and said, Amore, I am so happy to have met you. As these words left his lips, he ran his hands through my hair in a valiant attempt to bring me closer for what would have been our first kiss. Unfortunately, my wig was not properly secured for such a spontanious romantic entanglement. The wig slid halfway back off my head and in a moment of comedic horror revealed what I was hiding beneath the wig, NOTHING! No wig cap, no hair! In fact, the week prior I had shaved my head completely down to a one due to a botched perm job from one of my college classmates (This is another story). Before I could say anything, all in one motion, he let out a gasp of shock, apologized, and proceeded to pull my Cleopatra wig by the bangs and positioned it back into its original place. I looked up at the full moon that was smiling back at me and thought, How could I not secure my wig? How DO I secure a wig? We continued for two silent blocks, each of us laughing on the inside and still laughing about it today.
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By Morgan R. Gantt
My first wig experience was not for daily use as a fashion accessory, but as the most important piece of my Halloween costume, Cleopatra. You cannot transform into Cleopatra without long black hair and the seductive bangs. I went to Fulton Street Mall in downtown Brooklyn, New York to the first wig store I could find within my twenty dollar budget. I arrived at the pre-party dinner with my friend Diana, who was also wearing a wig, to be greeted by a table of twenty friends. It felt more like I was having dinner with all of my favorite life-sized cartoon characters. Fun! I met a mysterious gentleman disguised as Neo from The Matrix who loved my costume and of course, my hair. We exchanged emails and decided to go out to dinner a few days later. V
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Step #1: Detangling The hair Use t-pins to secure the wig to the styrafoam wig head. Gently use a wig brush or wig comb to remove any tangles in the hair. Step #2: Apply Setting Lotion Using a spray bottle, apply a generous amount of setting lotion. Step #3: Wrap The Hair Around The Head Using a paddle brush, begin wrapping the hair around the mannequin head in a circular direction. Using your hands, guide the brush to help smooth the hair as close to the wig base as possible. Step #4: Securing the Pins Using metal hair clips pin the hair to provide a secure hold. Step #5: Drying The Hair Place the mannequin head underneath the dryer on medium heat. The amount of time is determined by the length of the hair.
Step-by-step description
Numbered images
Page number
It is very important to allow the hair to completely dry before unwrapping the wet wrap. The wet wrap provides a great base for styling and also a quick and less labour intensive process for drying hair.
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85 CHAPTER 7: How To
Helpful reminders
Website
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Tools Key
Here is a list of tools that will be used throughout this book. The list may seem long, but look close enough and you may find many of these items already in your cabinets. Reference this key for a detailed explaination of what each icon represents.
Clear Acrylic Sealer
Used instead of knot sealer to seal the knots on the lace wig in order to prevent excessive shedding. This can be purchased at many retail and specialty craft stores.
Coloring Brush
Can be purchased at a beauty supply store. Allows you to literally paint the color onto the hair ensuring all of the hair is coated with the hair color.
Adhesive
Coloring Bowl
Wig glue or wig tape is used to secure your lace wig in place.
Bowl used to mix developer and tube of color when coloring the lace wig.
Adhesive Remover
Allows the removal of the lace wig without damaging it. Also used to remove any excess adhesive from both your skin and the lace wig.
Cold Cream Used to remove the wig adhesive from the skin without harsh chemicals. Compact Mirror
Aluminum Foil
Used to form a bowl to hold certain liquids. Can also be used to frost hair in order to prevent the color from touching other hair.
A small mirror that can easily fit inside a small bag or purse for quick touch ups while on the go.
Concealer / Powder
Applicator Stick
An applicator stick can be used to apply the adhesive. This is important because it allows you to apply a fine line of glue. Brushes or other tools make the line of adhesive too thick, making the adhesive fully noticeable once it dries.
Make-Up foundation used to match your natural skin tone when applied to the part of a lace base.
Cotton Balls
Used to clean the skin around the hairline so the adhesive can be applied.
Combs attached to the blow dryer prevent direct heat from reaching the hair and also aid in curling the hair while it is damp.
Curlformers
Used to give hair bouncy curls without the use of direct heat. Can be purchased at beauty supply stores in a variety of different lengths and sizes.
Bobby Pins
Small metal or plastic hair clips that aid in securing a variety of hairstyles.
Curlformers Hook
Heated styling tool that is safe to use on quality human hair lace wigs. It evenly distributes heat and adds curl, body, and volume to your lace wig.
Developer
Used to mix the color when dying lace wigs. This can be purchased at a beauty supply store and also comes included in hair dye kits.
Heated styling tool that can be used on quality human hair lace wigs. It evenly distributes heat and makes the hair straight by removing volume.
Teeth on comb are very close together, perfect for smoothing out styles. Do not use for removing tangles.
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Tools Key
Foam Rollers Hair Rubberband
Rollers made from foam that allow you to wrap the hair inside of the rollers rather than having to secure the curlers. Works great on natural hair also. Hair Rubberbands are used at the end of a braid to secure the braids from coming undone.
Fray Block
Used to spray on torn or newly cut lace to prevent the edges from fraying.
Hooded Dryer
Lace
Plastic cap with small holes for the hair to be pulled through. It comes with a flap to hold the hair not being frosted.
Used to repair the tears in lace wigs. The lace can be saved from older lace wigs or bought new from beauty supply stores.
Lace Wig
Wigs made from human hair or synthetic hair that are individually attached to a delicate lace base. Each hair is knotted to the base to allow the lace wig to appear like your natural hair.
Hair Clips
Hair clips can be used to style the hair, but are also used to help hold hair out of the way. You want a variety of different sizes.
Latex Gloves
Protects hands from the dye used to color the lace wig.
Contains everything needed to color the lace wig and can be purchased at local retail stores or beauty supply stores.
Spray on oil that give your lace wig some shine when the hair starts to appear dull.
Removes any dye that comes in contact with the lace base.
Measuring Tape
A soft measuring tape is used to measure your head and to ensure the right size lace wig for you.
Hair Hook
Similar to a crochet hook, used to pull out small sections of hair that will be frosted. Usually comes with highlighting kit.
Hair Pins
Used to write down the exact measurements of your head when ordering a lace wig.
Used to pin back the baby hair on the lace wig during application, and also aids in keeping your natural hair as flat as possible underneath the lace wig cap.
Plastic Cap
Plastic cap that can be found inside of hair dye kits or shower caps. They are used to prevent color from leaking through to the styrofoam head when coloring or styling your lace wig.
Hair Spatula
Q-Tips
Hair spray
Used to apply adhesive and adhesive remover because it allows a thin line to be applied.
Hairspray is needed to hold your beautiful style as you live your life on the go. Only use hairspray that is safe for lace wigs.
The rat tail comb is useful when applying the lace wig, parting the hair and styling fly aways or baby hair.
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Tools Key
Razor Blade
Used to thin out the hair of the lace wig. Prevents the straight edge cut that scissors give.
Thinning Shears
Used to thin the hair on the lace wig. Professional shears are available from beauty supply stores.
Rollers
T-Pins
Plastic rollers that come in a variety of sizes and can be used to create the perfect curls for your lace wig and natural hair.
Pins shaped like the letter T are used to secure the lace wig to the styrofoam head while styling the lace wig.
Rolling Papers
Used to prevent the hair from drying out at the ends, plus they aid in keeping the hair together while drying on the rollers.
Hair color can be purchased at any beauty supply store and also may come separately or inside of a hair dye kit.
Rubbing Alcohol
Tweezers
Used to remove adhesive from the lace wig as well as from the hair itself during the removal process.
Used to pull hair from the lace wig to create a natural looking hairline or to create a lighter density. Use blunt ended tweezers to prevent unnecessary tearing of the lace base.
Scalp Protector
Provides a protective layer on your scalp to help prevent irritation from the adhesives used to secure the lace wig.
Vaseline
Used to protect the delicate lace base from hair dye when coloring the lace wig.
Scissors
Wide tooth combs have teeth that are wider apart than other combs to prevent pulling when combing.
Setting Lotion
Allows you to get a tighter curl that holds longer and can be used to secure a wet wrap.
Wig Brush
Brush that is recommended for human hair wigs because of how easily it goes through the human hair and fibers due to the open bristles.
Silk Scarf
Holds the hair in place while allowing the wig adhesive to dry. The silk scarf also protects your lace wig from friction.
Spray Bottle
Wig combs are sewn into the lace wig base to secure the lace wig to the natural hair. They can be purchased at most beauty supply stores and be used with or without glueless wig cap constructions.
Always have one filled with water. Others will need to be used to mix shampoo and conditioner for washing the lace wig.
Wig Cap
Used to hold lace in place while modifying the lace wig. Resizing your lace wig requires the use of straight stick pins.
Wig caps are used to protect your natural hair from breakage due to friction when wearing a lace wig. Black and nude wig caps are the most common colors, but what color you choose will depend on your skin tone.
Wig Stand
Metal or plastic wig stands are used to store the lace wigs when not being worn.
Used to sew wig clips and combs onto the lace wig and also to repair or resize a lace wig. Also used to repair the tears or resize a lace wig.
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1
Lace wigs have been a staple in the beauty regimen of celebrities and their stylist for years, making lace wigs one of the industrys best kept secrets. You have seen wigs on the likes of RuPaul, Cher, Rihanna, Tyra Banks, Tina Turner, Nicki Minaj, Kim Zolciak, and Lady Gaga, just to name a few. Initially lace wigs were for professional use such as photo shoots, movies, and theatre. However, today they are becoming more and more commonplace amongst regular people, for daily use. Stylists and their clients prefer lace wigs because they are one of the most natural, versatile, lightweight, and undetectable wigs available. When properly applied there is no indication where the hairline of the lace wig starts and ends because of the construction of the lace base. Each hair strand is attached individually to the paper-thin lace base, creating what appears to be a natural hair and scalp pattern, while also offering the ability to naturally part the hair wherever the lace is present. Lace wigs can be constructed out of human hair or synthetic fibers. The most popular type of hair used in lace wigs is Indian Remy Hair which comes from India. Due to its color and texture it can be matched with just about any ethnic hair texture around the world. Other places Remy Hair can be found are Europe, East Asia, and South America. Hair types such as Brazilian, Chinese, and Malaysian, offer specific hair textures that correspond with a multitude of ethnicities. However, where the hair comes from is not as important as the care it was given when it was first collected.
Chapter 1
The 10 Frequently Asked Questions About Lace Wigs
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Alopecia Areata
Alopecia Areata is an autoimmune disease that attacks the hair follicles for some unknown reason. When the hair follicles are under attack, the hair begins to fall out leaving behind bald spots. The three different types of Alopecia Areata are; general Alopecia Areata, Alopecia Universalis, and Alopecia Totalis. The only way to determine if you are suffering from any type of Alopecia Areata is to get diagnosed by a dermatologist.
Thinning Hair
Traction Alopecia
Thinning hair stems from many reasons, including genetics, pregnancy, hormone changes, medications, and others. It is quite normal for women to shed a small amount of hair everyday because all healthy people shed dead hair. Once the dead hair falls out, new hair starts to grow from the same follicle. Women who are suffering from thinning hair can easily shed over 100 hairs a day. Their hair is no longer growing back from the same follicle and is falling out faster than the hair can be replaced.
Traction Alopecia is the same as Alopecia in the sense that there is hair loss, but unlike other forms of Alopecia this type is 100% preventable. Traction Alopecia is caused by hair being pulled from the roots over time due to hair styles that pull too tightly on the hair in a particular direction. Thinning is first noticed along the hairline, but other signs of this problem are papules, red bumps, and pustules that can cause infections along the hairline.
Women who are undergoing Chemotherapy treatments for various types of Cancer run the risk of thinning hair or complete hair loss. Chemotherapy causes hair loss because the medication attacks healthy cells inhibiting growth. Whether hair loss occurs or if it is just thinning will depend on the type of medication being taken, the doses involved, and the individual. Some do not experience any kind of hair loss, but for those who do, it is not always permanent.
With female pattern baldness the hairline usually stays intact, while many women often notice their hair thinning throughout their entire head or along the crown area. In some cases, women do not notice the thinning of hair until suddenly they are left with bald patches. Female pattern baldness is permanent, there is no reversing it and is believed to be caused by genetics, aging, and hormones.
Hair loss from chemical processing is extremely common and completely preventable. It is the result of over processing the hair with a variety of chemicals treatments. Remember all the perms and color treatments you received as a kid or even as an adult? How many times have you used lye relaxers and the next perm used a non lye relaxer? Using too many chemicals on the hair, no matter how short or long the time period is, effects the hair follicle itself, making it fragile and prone to damage. You may not experience dramatic hair loss, but rather significant thinning over the years. HAIRLIBRARY.COM 4
A full lace wig is constructed with each hair attached individually to a thin layer of delicate lace throughout the entire lace base. The lace base gives the illusion of scalp; therefore, the hair can be parted in any direction or section. Full lace wigs offer more versatility than lace front wigs because of the versatility in styling options, such as high ponytails, half up/half down, low ponytails, pigtails, braids, and deep side and center parts.
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Capless Wigs
What really makes this wig construction stand out from others is the open wefted top, back and sides. Many people choose these wigs because they are the most affordable, but they are also comfortable to wear. Capless wigs are lightweight, which adds to the comfort, but unfortunately does not add to the durability or the versatility in styling options. One of the biggest indicators that someone is wearing a wig is the inability to see the scalp from which the hair should be growing from. Capless wigs do not provide parting that exposes the scalp of the wig at anytime.
Monofilament Wigs
Hand Tied Wigs are one of the more comfortable wigs to wear because of how soft the materials are, plus they have a lightweight cap. With hand tied wigs, each strand of hair is tied individually to the wig cap giving it a natural looking hair pattern. Having the hairs hand tied also allows you to part and style the hair freely as it moves and acts just like your natural hair. Hand tied wigs do not have very many seams, which helps provide a more secure fit.
The hand tied elements of monofilament wig caps are one of the details that makes this style of wig so popular. The hand tied aspects of the wig allow the hair to look natural. With the monofilament wigs only the top section features the sheer hand tied section, the rest of the wig is constructed of open wefted hair. Each hair on the monofilament base is hand tied onto the sheer base, which gives you the ability to style the hair in only that section as desired. The sheer base and hand tied hairs also give the illusion of natural hair growing where ever it is parted. Not all Monofilament Wig Caps are the same. There are three different styles to choose from: full, part, and crown. The full cap gives you the most flexibility as it allows you to part the hair in either direction while providing you with natural looking hair. The Monofilament Part Cap comes with a permanent pre-styled part, meaning you cannot part it wherever you wish, but the part will always provide you with a natural look. The Monofilament Crown Cap gives you natural looking hair on the crown, giving the appearance of growth in the center of your head from the scalp.
Half Wigs
As the name suggests, a half wig comes with half the hair of a full wig. The reason for this is that a half wig is designed to cover the back half of your head while your natural hair is pulled out in front. Since your natural hair is going to show with a half wig most people try to match the hair color. These wigs are attached with clips and combs inside the base of the half wig. The ability to blend your real hair with the half wig is critical in order for the half wig line to blend perfectly. This wig construction is ideal for those affected by female pattern baldness and thinning hair at the crown of the head. 9
CHAPTER 1: 10 FAQs About Lace Wigs
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snap clips and wigs combs to help secure a tighter fit. There are pros and cons to snap clips and wig combs. While the snap clips offer a very secure and tight hold, they can add stress to your natural hair because of the pressure the clip snaps apply to your hair. If you have a sensitive scalp this can cause irritation and if you have thin hair this added stress might cause your hair to fall out. An alternative to the snap clips are wigs combs located at both temples and the nape of the wig. The wig combs slip directly into your natural hair underneath your wig cap for a secure hold that does not add stress on your hairline. The combs can also slide if you are moving your wig around for additional adjustments. If you are not using an adhesive to secure your lace wig, you can add additional security and support using hairpins at the hairline above your ears.
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7. If I Have Hair loss Due To An Illness Or Chemical Damage Are Lace Wigs Right For Me?
Full lace wigs are a great option for those suffering from hair loss in areas that are very difficult if not impossible to camouflage with their own hair or even hair extensions. Thinning hair, Chemical Alopecia, Traction Alopecia, or Female Pattern Baldness are very difficult to mask, however the lace wigs can provide the natural hairline and crown that may have been affected by the specific hair condition.
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10. I Live A Very Active Lifestyle How Do Lace Wigs Hold Up?
One of the best things about any type of lace wig is how well they hold up to an active lifestyle. When leading an active lifestyle the one precaution you want to make is how securely you adhere your lace wig to your hairline. People that plan to swim or exercise will want to use a waterproof adhesive so the wig does not come off while swimming or perspiring. Most professionals recommend that those with an active lifestyle should use adhesive glue rather than tape for holding your wig in place. Adhesive glue provides a secure hold that is stronger than wig tape. It is important that you feel secure when enjoying yoga, running, or weight training with your lace wig to ensure you get the most out of your work out. The security of your wig is the last thing you should be worrying about when you are enjoying whatever life has in front you.
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2 Chapter 2
10 Embarrassing Mistakes To Avoid
Buying a lace wig for the first time can be an overwhelming experience, clouded with more questions than answers. The last thing you want to do is make an investment in the WRONG wig. Getting the color and texture right is only the beginning, you also need to make sure you get the correct size. Purchasing a lace wig that is either too small or too big is only one of the common mistakes made that can lead to a very embarrassing situation. If you have never worn a lace wig before and have not taken time to learn how to properly wear your wig you can make avoidable and embarrassing mistakes. Taking the time to learn about the most common mistakes that people make, will ensure that you have a positive experience the first time around. Taking the time to learn about some avoidable mistakes will not only extend the life of your lace wig, but you will learn the proper care techniques required to maintain your new investment. Sometimes when women do not understand what to expect from a lace wig they immediately assume that the unit is defective or has not met their expectations. Let us take a look at some common mistakes and take a step in the right direction.
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Before putting on your lace wig, you will need to choose the best protective style to ensure an undetectable appearance. A common problem among people wearing lace wigs for the first time is that they do not know how to secure their natural hair properly. This may cause the wig to sit higher off the scalp and appear very awkward and obvious. You may have seen someone appear to have a large point on the top of their head or at the nape of the neck because they placed their natural hair in a bun or ponytail underneath their wig.
SOLUTION:
If you are unsure of how much lace to cut off ask an experienced licensed stylist to help you. Before you cut the lace from your wig, study the nature of your natural hairline. Use your natural hairline as your guide when cutting and not the general hairline of the lace wig. When cutting the lace to match your hairline, you may cut where some hair is attached to the lace and that is okay. To ensure that the lace wig looks natural you will only want the lace to be visible only at the part rather than along the hairline. See Chapter 6: How To Apply A Lace Wig.
SOLUTION:
A wet wrap is one of the most recommended methods to properly secure your natural hair, but dry wraps, box braids and cornrows can also be used successfully. When wrapping your hair ensure that it is wrapped as tightly as possible against your scalp this allows the wig to sit as close to the scalp as possible. The closer the wig is to your scalp the more undetectable it will be. Wig caps help but they are not enough. The state of your natural hair will determine the best method for your protecting your hair. See Chapter 5: Protecting Your Natural Hair.
When using adhesive to apply your lace wig be sure not to use too much glue. Many people mistakenly assume that any kind of adhesive is appropriate. Using excessive adhesive will cause your lace wig to stand out due to the shine along the hairline. Some products may leave the glue with a white residue at the hairline and this defeats the purpose and causes the hair at the hairline to get stuck in the glue.
Fearful of making a mistake, some people do not cut enough lace away from the hairline of the wig, which leaves the lace visible against the skin. Another common mistake people make with the hairline of their lace wig is not using their natural hairline as a guide; instead, cutting the lace in a manner that gives the hairline a razor edge, like a man. This is extremely unnatural and may leave people giving you a double take for all the wrong reasons. Those double takes question the credibility of your undetectable wig. 19 CHAPTER 2: 10 Embarrassing Mistakes To Avoid
SOLUTION:
When using adhesive glue to secure your lace wig to your hairline you want to use lace wig adhesive that is going to dry clear. In addition, when bonding the wig to the hairline do not use any type of styling product on the hair until the glue has completely dried, this can take up to 12 minutes depending on the glue. If there is too much glue, use a small amount of adhesive remover on a Q-Tip along the hairline. You should be applying a very thin pencil line like layer of glue if you choose to bond your wig. Using a very small popsicle stick can help control the amount of adhesive applied to the hairline. See Chapter 6: How To Apply A Lace Wig. HAIRLIBRARY.COM 20
Dry and brittle hair on anyone will stand out because it does not look like healthy hair. Imagine how unhealthy dry and brittle hair looks on a lace wig. No Bueno. Obviously, dry and brittle hair is the last thing anyone wants, so you MUST prevent it from happening.
SOLUTION:
SOLUTION:
If you are not sure where the perfect placement of the hairline is for your wig STOP and study your natural hairline. Before bonding the hair try as many positions as you need until you feel comfortable. The wig should be placed as close the natural hairline as possible. A trick you can do is take a make up pencil and draw an outline on the lace before you cut it. The hairline of the lace wig should sit just in front of your natural hairline. See Chapter 6: How To Apply A Lace Wig.
Lace wigs made from human hair need to be kept in excellent condition by conditioning the hair on a regular basis. When conditioning the hair make sure you only use products that are approved for use on human hair lace wigs. Using unsafe products can cause the hair to turn not only dry and brittle, but also dull and lifeless. Excessive heat with curling and flat irons can also play a role in drying out your locks. Using curling techniques that do not require heat such as pin curls or sponge rollers to touch up your hair in between washes and after you have styled your hair are ideal. You can also use a light hair sheen twice a week to add more luster if it is needed. Storing your lace wig improperly can also cause your wig to be dry and brittle. The condition of the hair starts with the quality of the hair. If the hair quality is poor from the start, there is not much you can do. See Chapter 7: Styling A Lace Wig.
A very common mistake women make with lace wigs is choosing the wrong hair texture for their wig. This is critical if you are seeking an undetectable look with your wig. If you have chosen a hair texture that is different from your natural hair texture that you are used to styling, you must learn everything you can about styling your wigs hair texture.
Mistake #6: Choosing The Wrong Hair Texture For Your Lace Wig
SOLUTION:
Another avoidable mistake people make with their lace wigs is placing the hairline of the lace wig way too close to the eyebrows. If you place the hairline of the wig too far down close to the eyebrows the wig will look more like a costume prop. With patience and practice this mistake is 100% avoidable. 21 CHAPTER 2: 10 Embarrassing Mistakes To Avoid
You want to select a wig that matches the same texture as your natural hair. For example, if your hair is a soft texture that is straight and semi-shiny, you want to pick a hair texture that matches as close as possible. You can also do an eyebrow test and see how the hair texture of your lace wig matches the texture of your eyebrows. This is a quick and simple method to make sure that you choose the most natural looking hair texture before purchasing your lace wig. See Chapter 4: My First Lace Wig.
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The density of the hair is referring to how much hair is present in each square inch. Heavy density causes the wig to sit high on the top of the head and the appearance of too much hair coming from the temples looks very unnatural. You should not have more hair per square inch in one temple of your lace wig than all your natural hair combined. Find a balance.
is important. Before you apply your lace wig your wig cap should be pushed back away from the hairline by about 1/8th of an inch. Another tip to help blend the wig cap color, which is evident wherever you part your lace wig, is to apply a small amount of foundation powder you use on your skin directly to the exposed lace with a small brush. This will make the lace match your skin tone instead of showing the color of the lace and the wig cap beneath. See Chapter 10: Expecting The Unexpected
SOLUTION:
You need to determine what natural hair density suits you before buying a lace wig. If you have naturally thin hair you do not want to select a lace wig with heavy density because it looks too obvious and unnatural. Instead, you want to select a wig with light density. With patience, reducing the density will produce realistic results. You can reduce your lace wigs density if you cannot find one with the density you are looking for. See Chapter 7: Styling A Lace Wig
Another common mistake women make with their new lace wig is that in the excitement of their new investment they put the wig on and forget to style it. When wearing a lace wig you want your hair to be properly styled to suit your face shape so that you look your best. You should be wearing the wig instead of the wig wearing you.
Wearing the wrong color wig cap allows the cap color to be more evident in the areas where the lace base is visible. If you are wearing a blonde wig a black colored wig cap would be seen down the middle part of the wig. No one has a black scalp.
SOLUTION:
SOLUTION:
You want to choose a cap that is as close to your natural skin tone as possible. While it can be difficult to choose one that matches your skin color exactly getting it as close as possible 23
CHAPTER 2: 10 Embarrassing Mistakes To Avoid
If you do not feel comfortable trying to style the wig on your own, take it into a licensed professional lace wig stylist. The stylist can give your lace wig a proper style for your face shape so your wig looks just as good as your natural hair, if not better. Creating baby hair and adjusting hair density are vital to owning your lace wig. See Chapter 7: Styling A Lace Wig
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Another frequent mistake often made is not properly securing their lace wig. Having your wig slide off or shift out of place is embarrassing enough, however, people knowing that the perfect look you have achieved is not your own can cause that embarrassment to last a lifetime.
SOLUTION:
For extra security for you lace wig use bobby pins or hairpins in addition to any adhesive you use. Bobby pins and hairpins can be kept hidden while providing extra security. With the adhesive, remember not to apply too much glue because you do not want it to show. Most wigs come with hair clips/wig combs inside the wig to offer extra security. If your wig does not come with hairclips or wig combs built in, you can always add them yourself. See Chapter 6: How To Apply A Lace Wig
Nothing is worse than being out in public with a lace wig and an itchy scalp. Unfortunately digging and scratching is not an option. If you do, you run the risk of ruining your lace wig and exposing to the public that you are wearing one. To avoid an itchy scalp make sure you are washing and moisturizing your scalp regularly. If you suffer from itchy scalp or dry skin, you may need to see a doctor for medicinal options.
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3 Chapter 3
10 Frequently Asked Questions For Your Stylist
Choosing the right stylist for your lace wig is important because you need a licensed stylist that has experience handling lace wigs. The perfect lace wig stylist is going to be an asset rather than a liability for your lace wig experience. If your stylist does not know how to care for your wig, they can do more harm than good even causing unintentional but avoidable damage to your unit. The following are some very important questions you should ask your lace wig stylist BEFORE you place your wig in their hands. What to look for in the portfolio. The best stylists will have a portfolio that contains before and after pictures so you can gain a better idea of how much experience they really have. Portfolios should contain more than one or two hairstyles. Professional stylists should be able to style hair in a way that flatters their customers, which is usually determined by facial shapes. What a portfolio should not have. One of the worst mistakes that people make when creating a portfolio is filling it up with a ton of pictures. Quantity is not important in a portfolio, although diversity is. The quality of the style is what matters, and your stylists portfolio should reflect diversity and the understanding of face shapes and hairstyles. It should not be the same hairstyle on many different women.
#2. How Long Has The Stylist Been Applying Lace Wigs?
The longer the lace wig stylist has been applying lace wigs the better, as it means they have more experience. The more experience a lace wig stylist has the better they will be at making the wig undetectable and helping navigate you through the common questions regarding lace wigs. Some of the biggest problems with inexperienced stylists are, they apply the lace wig incorrectly and the lace or cap is placed where it is not supposed to. Inexperienced stylists can also make the mistake of using the wrong type of adhesive, cutting too much lace and many other common mistakes that are made with lace wigs; which are mentioned in Chapter 2: Embarrassing Mistakes To Avoid. HAIRLIBRARY.COM 28
You can ask your stylist the 10 FAQ about lace wigs and if they have been applying them for a long time, they should have no problem answering your questions.
the stylist has done for them, such as the cutting the lace to create a natural hairline.
#4. Ask For A Consultation #3. Does The Stylist Have Clients You Can Talk To?
When picking out a professional stylist for your lace wig you want to find out if they have any former or current clients that you can talk with. If there are clients that you can talk to, ask if you can have their phone number or email address rather than them contacting you. Talking with both former and current clients is important because it will give you a better idea of what the stylists strengths and weaknesses are. Talking to former clients When talking to former clients one of the first things you want to ask them is why they are no longer a client. For some clients it can be as simple as they moved away from the stylist or they no longer wear a lace wig. For others, it can be a bit more complicated, including personal reasons. If you come across a former client that does not recommend the stylist you are considering, make sure you find out why they are not suggesting the stylist. This can save you time, money and energy. Talking to current clients Most of the time current clients are going to be happy with the stylist they are using, but sometimes they might surprise you. Ask current clients what they feel are the stylists strong points, as well as what they think the stylist needs to work on. You should also ask if they can show you some of the work that 29 CHAPTER 3: 10 FAQs For Your Stylist Asking for a consultation from a professional lace wig stylist is important to see what they are capable of, as you will discover if they know what they are REALLY doing. In rare cases, professional stylists will claim that they can do things that they really cannot. Doing your homework before deciding on a stylist ensures the safety of your wig; without the research you run the risk of leaving your wig in the wrong hands. The consultation The majority of your stylists will charge a small fee for the consultation. When scheduling the consultation, ask your stylist if that amount can be applied towards your first appointment, as some are willing to do that. The reason why most stylists do not offer free consultations is that people take advantage of them; once they provide the client with all the information and advice the client does not come back.
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During the consultation, the stylist should do more than just talk. While asking you a variety of questions the stylist should also be examining your natural hair and scalp. Here is a list of things that a good stylist will do during a consultation: 1. Ask to check the condition of the scalp? 2. Ask you how you maintain your natural hair currently? 3. How would you describe your lifestyle? 4. How often do you see a professional stylist? 5. Is this your first time wearing a lace wig (If not how long)? 6. How do you maintain your wigs currently? 7. Do you wear synthetic or human hair? 8. Do you have allergies or skin conditions? 9. Are you wearing wigs for convenience or because you have a hair condition? 10. Have you ever experienced hair loss of any kind? Check the condition of your hair and scalp. The scalp needs to be in good condition so you do not have complications with wearing wigs. They also need to check the scalp to determine what type of adhesive should be used and the type of protective state most suitable for your natural hair. Check how well you take care of your hair. Stylists want to know how well you take care of your own hair in between visits to see how well you will care for your lace wig. To determine this they will look at your hair closely, but also ask you a variety of questions about your daily, weekly and monthly hair routine. In addition to your regimen, they should be asking about the products you are currently using, and if you are having any allergies. 31
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#5. Ask The Stylist To Do A Step By Step Demo Of How The Lace Wig Is Applied
One of the most important steps required for lace wig stylists is the ability to apply the wig so that it is undetectable by others. A stylist who is unable to articulate the basic process of applying a lace style wig can inadvertently destroy your natural hairline as well as the hairline of the lace wig, and also place you in some embarrasing situations. Talking to the stylist The stylist should be able to give you a verbal step-by-step walk through that details how to apply a lace wig. The first thing they should talk about are the best solutions to protect your natural hair underneath the wig cap. The stylist should also talk about the protective state to ensure there is no bulging underneath your lace wig. While listening to the stylist explain the steps, you should listen to what kind of terminology they are using. An experienced stylist will be familiar with lace wig terminology, but will also be able to provide you with a physical demonstration. After reading this book you will be well informed on everything you need to know about lace wigs and the consultation should reaffirm that the stylist also knows everything about lace wigs. Be patient and listen to their explanation, if you feel that they are not comfortable in explaining the application process then it is time to move on.
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#6. Ask The Stylist The 10+ FAQs About Lace Wigs
One of the best ways to find out how much the stylist knows about lace wigs is through asking them the 10+ FAQs about lace wigs. An experienced stylist should be able to answer all of the questions correctly, if not add to the list. Top 10+ FAQS Here is a list of the top questions that you will want to ask the stylist. See Chapter 1: 10 FAQs About Lace Wigs. 1. What are the different types of lace wigs? 2. How long will my wig last? 3. How do I measure my head for the wig? 4. Can I style and curl my lace wig? 5. Can lace wigs damage my hairline? 6. Can I dye or color my lace wigs? 7. What is hair density? 8. I live a very active lifestyle. How do these wigs hold up? 9. How do I care for my lace wig? 10. What kind of hair is the wig made out of? + 11. If I have hair loss due to an illness or chemical damage, is this right for me?
Ask the stylist what they would recommend based on your facial structure. Do not forget to ask them for examples of hairstyles for specific face shapes in their portfolio. See Chapter 4: My First Lace Wig, for the best style for your face shape.
#8. What Type Of Hair Is The Stylist Used To Styling, Synthetic Or Real?
Lace wigs can be made from human hair or they can be made from synthetic fibers. Human hair wigs are easier to style because of how manageable human hair is but requires more maintenance than synthetic wigs. You can curl some synthetic wigs using a low heat, others you cannot apply heat to at all. When washing the human and the synthetic hair the process and the products that are to be used are VERY different. Your stylist should already be aware of the hair texture of your unit. Styling the different wigs Styling a synthetic lace wig is harder than styling lace wigs made from human hair because the synthetic fibers are not as flexible. When styling wigs with synthetic fibers only certain products can be used on the wig, so instructions must be read carefully. Human hair is a lot easier to style because you can use most of the same techniques to style your wig that you would use on your natural hair. However, human hair wigs are also more susceptible to damage from over styling, so you need to be careful about what products you are using and how much heat is applied to the wig. Most synthetic hair wigs come pre-styled, therefore limiting the versatility in styling and the ability to customize the wig for your face shape; not to forget the allergic reaction that some people have with synthetic fibers.
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#7. Can The Stylist Suggest The Best Hairstyle For My Face Shape?
The most important thing about wearing any hairstyle is making sure that it flatters your face shape, which can be harder than it sounds. A professional lace wig stylist will have the training and knowledge required to give you that perfect style based on the shape of your face. 33
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Are the credentials current? Both licenses should be current. If they are not current, you will want to ask why. It could be a simple explanation as to they are waiting for the new one in the mail or it could be more complicated than that. You want to avoid stylists that are too lazy to keep their credentials current. Even though they might know what they are doing, they are not showing responsibility, which most likely transfers into their overall work ethic.
Bonus #11. How Can The Stylist Adjust The Density For My Face?
When you buy a lace wig, one of the first things you want to check is the density of the wig to ensure it meets your needs. Hair density refers to the amount of hair present per square inch. While the exact density varies from one manufacturer to the next, most of them use the same words to describe how dense the hair is. Even though a professional stylist can help adjust the density of a lace wig to suit your face you still want to purchase the right wig from the beginning to make things easier.
#10. Does The Stylist Have The Proper Credentials To Work On You And Your Lace Wig?
Even though a professional stylist is required by law to have a Cosmetology License that does not mean they do. Stylists who are in business for themselves must also have a Business License, which is usually displayed directly above or below the Cosmetology License in their workstation. Most stylists who are working in a salon where they are renting a chair have the proper license because it is a requirement that must be met when renting the space. However, stylists who are working independently on their own or out of their home might be working without one. Be very careful and avoid cutting corners, stylists are required to have a license for a reason.
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4 Chapter 4
My First Lace Wig
There are many things to consider when purchasing your first lace wig. Most of these important factors were covered in the previous chapters. Keep in mind, although it may seem overwhelming, taking the time to practice and inform yourself of your many options will help you achieve the look you desire. Most critical mistakes, are made in the beginning. I know, because I have made all of them more than once. Identifying hair types and measuring your head properly are just the beginning of the list of choices that need to be made before your lace wig is in your hands. I took one for the team so you do not have to. Take a look at the important components that anyone in the market for their first lace wig should consider.
LIGHT BROWN Light brown lace color is perfect for light brown scalp tones.
MEDIUM BROWN Medium brown lace color is perfect for medium brown scalp tones.
DARK BROWN Dark brown lace color is ideal for dark brown scalp tones.
To get the best color match for your lace you need to match the lace color with the tone of your scalp not your skin tone. 37
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1: Head Circumference The tape measure should follow your hairline all the way around from the top of the forehead all the way to the nape of your neck. The average circumference is 22.5 inches. 2: Forehead To Nape This determines the length of your head and is done by measuring from your forehead, over the top of your head to the nape of your neck. The average measurement for this area is 14.5 3: Over Top Of Head To get an accurate result place the end of the measuring tape at the top edge of your ear and run it across the top of your head to the same spot on your other ear. The average measurement here is 12.5 inches. 4: Front Hairline To get an accurate measurement you want to measure from the bottom of one sideburn to the bottom of the other sideburn measuring along the front of the hairline. The average measurement is 11.5 inches. 5: Nape Of Neck This measurement needs to go from one side to the other all along the bottom hairline. The average measurement is 5.5 inches. 6: Temple-To-Temple Here you will place the tape measure on one of your temples and then run the tape measure around the back of your head, so it encases your crown and ends up on the other temple. The average measurement here is 14.5 inches.
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Oval
People with an oval shaped face have a narrow jaw line with wide cheekbones. Having an oval face shape is great because you do not have to worry about hiding or accentuating any particular areas. With an oval face shape you can generally wear hairstyles of any length without having to stress about how it looks!
The nude color wig cap matches well with fair to light skin and with blonde colored wigs.
BROWN
The brown color wig cap matches well with brown to dark brown skin and with brown and red wig colors.
BLACK
Round
People with a round shaped face often have a wide hairline with full cheekbones, in most cases, their neck looks very short. The best hairstyles for people with round faces involve a linear or geometric style. Whenever possible you want to add height to the hairstyle. Long, wispy hair along the side of the face can help to make the checks appear narrower. Keeping the hair combed as close to the head as possible on the side of the head and on the nape of the neck also helps to hide how short the neck appears.
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The black color wig cap matches well with darker skin tones and dark brown to black wig colors.
NETTED
The black net wig cap matches well with darker skin tones and dark brown to black wig colors. This cap allows better ventilation of the scalp on hot days. 45
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Rectangle
Women with a rectangular shaped face have a very prominent forehead, a square jaw, and very strong, defined cheekbones. The main thing to do with this facial shape is to soften up the jaw and forehead. The best styles for accomplishing this are tapered layers or even ringlets. Bobs with side-swept bangs is a great style to wear out on the town.
Oblong
A long face with a narrow bone structure is the easiest way to define an oblong face. The best hairstyles for this facial shape will be any that allow you to create the illusion of an oval face shape. Using half bangs across the forehead or even using fringe to add soft curls or waves to the crown and nape area is a great trick for creating the illusion of on oval shaped face.
Diamond
Diamond shaped faces have narrow foreheads and chins, but wide cheekbones. Any hairstyle that is full at the chin and narrow along the sides is perfect. One of the best styles is a bob with layers. With this facial shape any volume along the sides or top is to be avoided. Add some bangs to help cover up the narrowness of the forehead.
Pear
A narrow or small forehead and a large or dominant jaw line is known as a pear shaped face. When combing and styling the hair, you want to add some width around eye level all the way to the crown of the head. The hair along the sides and nape of the neck needs to be kept as close to the head as possible.
Heart
Wide foreheads and narrow chins are the classic features of heart shaped faces. Hairstyles that hide the wideness of the forehead are the preferred choice. Hair should also be kept close to the head around the eyes, but should be a bit fuller around the jaw. Shorter haircuts are not ideal for people with heart shaped faces because the hair needs to be worn just below the earlobes.
Square
Square faces have a wide hairline, along with a wide jaw. The best hairstyle for this facial shape is one that adds height to the top, but also adds some narrowness along the sides. Create narrowness along the sides with wispy standards of hair; curls will also work because they break up the straight lines of the face. To add height to the top of the head simply comb the hair away from the forehead.
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5 Chapter 5
Protecting Your Natural Hair
No matter what method you plan to use, properly wrapping your natural hair is very important when wearing a lace wig. If you are not taking the time to properly protect your hair, this may cause irreversible damage to your natural hairline. Traction Alopecia along the hairline is quite common in individuals who do not wear a wig cap when using adhesive to secure the lace wig. Baby hairs located along the front of your natural hairline that are not properly pulled back often find themselves stuck in the adhesive and are eventually pulled out. Properly wrapping your hair ensures the baby hairs are not left stuck in the adhesive. Those who are commited to wearing lace wigs 24/7 go as far as shaving their baby hair at the hairline so there are no issues with the adhesive. I do not recommend shaving your hairline if you want the flexibility of only wearing your lace wigs when desired. When you are not wearing your lace wig and have shaved your hairline it may look unnatural and distracting.
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The dry wrap is ideal for straight hair as it can be styled within minutes and moisturized daily. The dry wrap is not ideal for curly hair as the volume does not allow the wig to be undetectable. HAIRLIBRARY.COM 52
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Cornrows are ideal for protecting both naturally curly and straight hair. It reduces the volume as it keeps the braid tight to the scalp. Cornrows also allow the scalp to breath and for the easy application of moisturizer to the scalp.
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Determine how many boxes you want to have along the bottom row, most women go with an even number. Part the hair in the middle, making sure the part line is straight. Part the hair so that it forms a perfect box.
Step #4: Begin Braiding Get your hands as close to the scalp as possible and begin to braid the hair. With the braid, you can do an underhand or overhand braid, whichever is more comfortable for you. Keeping your hands as close to the scalp as possible ensures you get a nice tight braid that will stay in place. Step #5: Tie Off The Braid Once you have finished braiding, apply a hair rubber band to the end of the braid to hold it in place. To finish box braids, repeat steps three through five until all of your hair has been braided.
Box braids are ideal for naurally curly hair as they reduce volume and give you the ability to moisturize your scalp daily.
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6 Chapter 6
How To Apply A Lace Wig
The proper application of a lace wig is the foundation for the success of any beautiful style. If your lace wig is not properly applied, it does not matter how amazing the hair style is, all the attention is focused on the obvious nature of your failed attempt. In order to achieve an undetectable look, the lace wig must be properly applied which takes practice and patience. Using too much adhesive, not cutting the lace properly, or using the wrong tools and techniques can lead to disastrous results. In order to properly apply the lace wig for the undetectable look you desire, it is imperative that you have the right tools at the beginning. Set yourself up for success before you start by becoming familiar with the tools and techniques as well as The Mistakes To Avoid, before doing irreversible damage to your investment.
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When cutting the lace, go very slowly cutting two inch sections at a time across the front of the hairline. There should be no residual makeup pencil marks remaining after the cutting process.
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Some women prefer to shave their natural baby hair at the hairline so the adhesive does not stick to their hair. This is not recommended as your natural hairline will look unnatural when you are not wearing your wig.
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Apply scalp protector to your hairline to protect against irritation. It is also recommended you do a 24 hour allergy test prior to using all adhesives.
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Be sure to take your time when cutting the adhesive strips to ensure they line up as naturally as possible with the hairline. When applying the lace wig at the nape of the neck, use a hand mirror to ensure the proper alignemnt. Practice makes perfect!
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Glueless Method: If you used wig combs, all you have to do is disengage the wig combs and gently slide the lace wig off your head. With the elastic band you will have to disengage the wig combs along the bottom and gently push in on the ear tabs to loosen the elastic strap.
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Remember when tweezing that the hair gradually gets thicker as it moves away from the hairline. The hairline is going to be the sparsest area in terms of density.
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Depending on the hairstyle, it may be easier to style the lace wig on a mannequin head.
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When pulling the hair into a ponytail, secure the hair with a hair pin.
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To save time you can also use sponge rollers to curl your lace wig overnight while the lace wig rests on the mannequin head.
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It is very important to allow the hair to completely dry before unwrapping the wet wrap. The wet wrap provides a great base for styling and also a quick and less labor-intensive process for drying hair.
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If you have trouble coordinating the perfect pin curl, use a plastic hair roller as a guide and remove the roller to keep the curl intact, then pin the curl in place.
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Using Curlformers are a great option that allows you to achieve curls without damaging the hair on the lace wig and to avoid shedding. You can achieve curls with any hair texture.
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These are great to style your natural hair as well because they are comfortable to sleep in when setting curls overnight.
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Working with small sections reduces the chance of making a mistake. Start thinning at the crown of the lace wig (using the thinning shears) where the hair is the fullest in most cases. Beware of cutting at the part.
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Make sure you do not twist the hair at the root, hold the twisted hair at the ends. To make your lace wig look real, the lace wig must do what real hair does; let the baby hair fly.
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Try the wig on and take it off as many times as needed throughout the process and make adjustments as you see fit.
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You can straighten the wig on your head or on the mannequin, but do not forget those hard to reach places in the back of your head.
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Make sure your lace wig is 100% human hair before attempting to color or process.
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Place a protective cap onto the wig stand; this prevents the dye from staining the styrofoam head. You can use any type of dye that you would use on your natural hair, but you need to mix the dye following the directions on the box.
Once the cap is in place, put the lace wig onto the stand and secure in place with some T-Pins. Place the T-Pins into the lace base as far from the hair as possible.
To help protect the exposed part of the lace you will need to put a small amount of Vaseline directly on the lace.
Use a paint brush for hair or something similar to apply the dye directly to the hair one section at a time. During application keep the dye about a millimeter away from the lace base, even though your roots will not change color. This also helps protect the lace base.
After applying dye to the hair, pin up each section to prevent the dye from getting on anything else including the lace base.
Carefully rinse out the dye in the lace wig until the water runs clear. Style your lace wig as desired.
Remember, before coloring your lace wig, you will need to do a test on a small section. Use RID dye remover to carefully remove any color from the lace.
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Combing
Never use any combs or brushes on your lace wig that are not designed for lace wigs. This is one of the biggest mistakes that women make and result in their investment shedding excessively and unnecessarily. While some shedding is expected, you do not want to comb and brush your wig vigorously; the hair is simply attached to the lace wig base with a knot, not glue. Wide tooth combs with metal teeth are the best suggestion, the wider the space between the teeth of the comb the better. When brushing your hair, it should simply be for the finishing touches to polish your look. NEVER use a wig brush for detangling. *It is important to note that you should not be combing or brushing curly hair if it is not wet.
It is very important to follow the instructions in this chapter to make sure that you are properly washing your wig. Remember, the wig is not like your real hair, which secretes oils in the scalp. Therefore wigs do not require a vigorous wash. Your wig is very delicate; when washing you want to make sure that you rinse the styling products you have used on the wig as well as anything else that you may have come in contact with in the environment (dust, smoke, etc).
If you are styling a wig that is constructed with human hair, you must provide the same care and attention as you would to your natural hair. What happens to your real hair when you curl it every day with a flat iron? Excessive curling and heat can leave your hair literally fried. If you are not curling and pressing your wig in moderation, you can cause the hair to break and dry out just like your real hair. There are some great tips on styling your lace wig without heat in Chapter 7: Styling Lace Wig.
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Storage
The way you store your wig is critical to the length of time you will be able to wear your wig at its best. Placing the wig on your bedpost or laying it flat in a drawer, hatbox, tall water bottle, or bag is the fastest way for your wig to lose its shape. Your wig should only be stored securely on a mannequin head away from extreme hot and cold temperatures, direct sunlight and damp areas. You want your wig to lay and contour to your scalp every time.
One thing that often catches women off guard is shedding. Many women are under the impression that wigs, no matter if they are made from human hair or synthetic fibers, are not supposed to shed. Therefore, when they see hairs falling out of their wigs they panic or they throw it out and rush to buy a new one. The truth of the matter is, some shedding is normal. What you need to watch out for is excessive shedding. The longer the hair and the thicker the density increases the chance of shedding. Excessive shedding is when the hair seems to be falling out by the handful, rather than a few strands here and there. However, you need to make sure you do not confuse excessive shedding with normal shedding with longer wigs. The longer the hair is on a wig the more it is going to shed because of the pulling, combing, styling, and curling of the hair. To help reduce the amount of shedding, you will want to use knot sealer on your lace wig before you wear it. If you do not have knot sealer, you can improvise and use a foaming wrap lotion; simply spray the foam lotion on the inside of your wig to seal the knots.
If you are using heavy gels and hard hairsprays when styling your wig it will be very difficult to remove the build-up of these types of products from your wigs without vigorous handling. It is better to use small pins to hold the hair in place where applicable than using a lot of product. Less is more. Let the hair flow, move, and do what real hair does. Overuse of products can also leave your wig looking more like a helmet, thus defeating its purpose all together. See Chapter 7: Styling A Lace Wig.
Coloring
You can color your wig, however, it is important to note that if the wig has already been colored, the additional stress will rapidly reduce the length of time your wig will maintain its luster. For additional color options purchase a lace wig constructed of virgin hair which has never been processed or colored.
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20 MIN
Be careful to avoid vigorous rubbing to remove adhesive as you do not want to loosen the knots of the hair or tear the lace base.
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Take the spray bottle containing conditioner and spray the wet hair well. Your conditioner should be about the same density as milk, but can be a little thicker.
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90 MIN
Keep in mind, if you have a polycoating along the bottom and side edges of the lace base, you want to avoid getting knot sealer on the polycoating. If knot sealer does come into contact with the polycoating, it will make it very difficult to remove any adhesive.
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Make sure you are storing your wigs in a cool dry place away from direct sunlight and humidity.
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9 Chapter 9
Modifying Your Lace Wig
Unfortunately, your lace wig is not always going to remain in perfect condition as wear and tear will eventually take its toll. Learning how to make small modifications to your lace wig on your own will save you hundreds of dollars in repair costs, but will also save you from having to buy new lace wigs every time something goes wrong. This chapter also covers adjusting a loose wig and attaching wig combs to ensure a perfect fit!
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Do not bring your needle up through the hair section of the lace wig. Make sure not to pull too tight as this may cause the lace to tear.
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If the adjustment is more than 1/2 inch, split the difference between the left and the right side of the wig comb at the nape of the neck. If needed, make a 1 inch adjustment by cinching 1/2 inch on either side of the wig comb.
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1A
1B
The best thing to do is to request your lace wig come with bleached knots. However, what is not considered is that bleaching the knots can weaken the knots. The weaker the knots the more likely the lace wig may shed and this directly affects the life of the lace wig.
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10 Chapter 10
#1 I Will Take Care Of My Natural Hair If you are not taking care of your natural hair, the convenience of lace wigs can quickly become a necessity. #2 I Will Measure My Head Properly
Not properly measuring your head for a lace wig can put you in a disastrous situation.
Pick a texture that matches with your hair texture. Too silky, shiny or not shiny enough will not look natural on you.
Choosing the wrong wig cap color also allows your wig to stand out; especially where the hair is parted.
Your lace wig should be applied where your natural hairline is. Avoid placing the lace wig too far down or too far back.
You would never leave the house without styling your natural hair, so give your lace wig the same kind of treatment. Have fun with it!
CHAPTER 10: Expecting The Unexpected With Your Lace Wig
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10
30
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Apply the lace wig adhesive remover to the outside edges. Allow it to sit for about 10 minutes, then reapply, and allow it to sit for another 10 minutes. The adhesive will be ready for the next step once it is tacky to the touch.
Spray 99% alcohol onto a cotton ball. You do not want it soaking, but you do want it damp. Rub the cotton ball directly onto the tacky area. This removes the natural oils from the adhesive.
Once you have dabbed the area with 99% alcohol it will become even tackier than before, so you will know it is time. To remove the glue from the lace base, continue to dab the tacky glue until you can remove the glue with your fingers.
Spray adhesive remover directly onto the hair and use the rat-tail comb to very gently comb out the glue. When using the comb, use the big tooth side to remove any tangles and the small tooth side to remove the residue.
The adhesive should be removed from the lace base immediately. The longer the glue stays the more difficult it is for the adhesive to be removed.
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5 MIN
Make sure that you are only using powder foundation. Never use a liquid concealor or liquid foundation.
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Take your time. Take a picture of yourself wearing the wig to see the perspective of others and continue to make adjustments until you are satisfied.
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Perma Tec
This adhesive is one of the only ones not made with plasticizers, so it will agree with just about any body chemistry. This adhesive can provide a stable hold during excessive heat, even if your scalp is oily. One layer of adhesive dries in 5 minutes, in which a second layer can be applied for an even stronger hold.
Endura Bond
This bond is not waterproof; it is water resistant and is perfect for extended wear without breaking down. If exposed to any moisture the adhesive will actually harden. This adhesive dries quickly, so a fast lace wig application is required.
It comes in a 4-ounce bottle and dries in about 30 seconds. The adhesive provides a moderate hold and the adhesive is easier than others to remove from the lace wig base.
Ultra Hold
This is the most popular lace wig adhesive used on the market due to its strong hold for an extended period of time. The adhesive is a waterproof adhesive, but also has a non-yellowing formula, so the glue will never stand out against your lace wig base.
It is not recommend that any lace wig be bonded for long periods of time, as without regular care and attention irreversible damage can be done to your hairline and scalp.
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INDEX
10 Embarrassing mistakes to avoid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 10 FAQ about lace wigs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1, 33 10 FAQ for your lace wig stylist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Adhesives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20, 109, 133 Adjusting hair density . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14, 36, 75, 91 Alopecia Areata ........................................ 3 Applying lace wigs too low . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Ask for a consultation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Attaching wig combs to your lace wig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Best styles for your face shape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Bleaching the knots to your lace wig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Boarder lace Wigs ..................................... .7 Can the stylist suggest the best hairstyles for my face shape? . . . . . . 33 Capless Wigs ...........................................9 Caring for your lace wig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13, 104 Center part lace wig ..................................... 8 Chemical processing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4, 13 Chemotherapy .........................................4 Choosing the correct adhesive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Choosing the wrong hair texture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22, 39 Choosing the wrong hair density . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14, 36, 75, 91 Consultation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30, 31 Cutting the hairline of the lace wig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Does the stylist have a portfolio? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Does the stylist have clients you can talk to? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Expecting the unexpected . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Female pattern baldness ..................................3 French lace ............................................ 5 Full lace wigs ...........................................6 Glueless lace wigs ....................................... 7 Hair textures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22, 39 Hair types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Half wigs ..............................................9 Hand tied wigs .........................................9 How can the stylist adjust the density for my face? . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 How long has the stylist been applying lace wigs? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
How to adjust the density of a lace wig? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 How to apply a lace wig? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58, 61 How to apply a lace wig with lace wig adhesive? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 How to choose the right hair texture? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 How to cornrows your hair? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 How to cut the bangs of a lace wig? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 How to do a dry/wet wrap? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 How to do box braids? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 How to dye your lace wig? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101, 107 How to highlight your lace wig? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 How to make baby hair? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 How to make the hairline of your lace wig look natural? . . . . . . . . 132 How to pin curl your lace wig? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 How to read a color ring? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 How to remove adhesive from your lace wig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 How to rollers set your lace wig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 How to style with the sponge rollers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 How to seal your lace wig knots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 How to size your lace wig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11, 43 How to wash your lace wig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35, 111 How to wet wrap your lace wig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Identifying different hair textures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Lace wig hairstyles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Lace colors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Matching the lace to your skin tone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Measure your head for a lace wig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Modifying your lace wig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Monofilament . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 My first lace wig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Properly removing your lace wig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Protective state . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19, 50 Shedding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Storing your lace wig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .115 Straightening a human hair lace wig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Styling a lace wig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24, 34, 72, 78, 106 Styling the perfect up do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
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Stylist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27, 32 Swiss Lace ............................................ 5 Tools key . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . IX The lace wig survival kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Things to remember when curling a lace wig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Thinning hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Traction Alopecia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3, 13 Trouble removing glue from the lace wig base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Using Curlformers to style your lace wig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Virgin Indian Remy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 What type of hair is the stylist used to styling with . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Wig cap color . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Wig constructions ...................................... 5 Wig tape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Wig size chart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Wrong wig caps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
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Ode To Joy
Indian Remy Hair Collection available on all mobile devices. Promo Code: lacewigbible
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THE LACE
WIG BIBLE
This book is the perfect tool for everyday lace wig owners and lace wig stylists. Inside The Lace Wig Bible, are over 200 step-by-step images to help guide you through understanding the dos and donts of wearing lace wigs. This compaion guide focuses on the recommended styling techniques, care instructions, choosing the right hair texture, hair color, and lace wig stylists. Discover the secrets of application techniques for flawless and sexy hair that is so undetectable, no one will know you are wearing a wig, except you. Celebrity stylist Nelson Vercher, who wrote the forward for the book, talks about how easy it is for women to achieve red carpet hair from the comfort of their own home with The Lace Wig Bible.
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10 10
10 Frequently Asked Questions About Lace Wigs 10 Mistakes to Avoid 10 Frequently Asked Questions For Your Stylist My First Lace Wig Protecting Your Natural Hair How To Apply Lace Wigs Styling A Lace Wig Caring For Your Lace Wig Modifying Your Lace Wig Expecting The Unexpected With Your Lace Wig