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I love the functionality of the SD Triple Shot rings, but they can't always be installed on a particular guitar. So, I decided to draw up a way to replicate them with toggle switches or a rotary switch. I used Seymour Duncan's wiring colors in my drawing. If you have pickups that use different colors, you'll need to do the translation. SD has a chart here: Pickup Color Codes Here's the normal way SD pickups are wired (north coils on the inside, south coils on the outside):
So, to duplicate the functionality of a TS ring with 2 SPDT toggle switches, you would wire the switches like this: Attached Thumbnails
The diagram represents 2 ways of wiring up one pickup. If you want both pickups to switch, you will need 4 SPDT switches or 2 DPDT switches. In both diagrams, the inside terminals of the switches have 2 wires connected to them. Here's how the top diagram works: Both toggles flipped in toward each other gives you the coils in series (normal humbucker). Both toggles flipped out gives you the coils in parallel. Both switches flipped to the right gets you the inside coil (north, slug) regardless of whether you wire up a SD neck humbucker or a SD bridge humbucker. Conversely, if you flip both switches to the left, you will get the outside coil (south, screw coil). Now, what if when you flip both switches one way, you don't get the coil you wanted? That's what the bottom diagram shows. One example would be that you are switching 2 humbuckers and you don't want insides & outsides together, but you want your splits to be (a.) the neck side coil of the neck pup with the neck side coil of the bridge pup and (b.) the bridge side coil of the neck pup with the bridge side coil of the bridge pup. On the pup you want to flip, you would leave the hot out & ground connections tied to the inside terminals of the 2 switches, but reverse the Red & Black wires and also reverse the Green & White wires. That will give you the 2nd set of switching options in the drawing.
Now, if you prefer to emulate 4 of the TS ring options with a rotary switch (note that the pup's Black wire is also connected to the Hot Out lead and the pup's Green wire is also connected to Ground): Attached Thumbnails
The 2 versions of the drawing show how to get different splits with the rotary. It's a little easier to make changes on the rotary than with the toggle switches. Here's a 4 position rotary switch that would work for this: 4 Position Rotary Switch | Allparts.com The switch actually has 4 poles, so you could wire the neck pup on one wafer & the bridge pup on the other wafer to switch both pups at the same time. It occurs to me that you could get a 6 position rotary switch (like this: 6 position Rotary Switch | Allparts.com ) and wire it up to get all of the TS ring combinations (series/parallel/inside coils/outside coils/neck side coils/bridge side coils), but I've drawn & scanned enough for one day.... After some more thought, the TS rings will give you more than 6 options (like one pickup as a humbucker & the other as a single coil, like PRS is doing now), so even the 6 position rotary won't totally duplicate having 2 TS rings. But, most people would probably say that 1 rotary knob is still easier to deal with than 4 switches. YMMV
Here's a drawing of 2 push-pull pots. I've shown the pots upside down as they (typically) would be when you're wiring them. These could also be push-push pots & they'd wire the same. Attached Thumbnails
If you want the neck side coils when you pull up the left knob (position 3 in my drawing) & the bridge side coils when you pull up the right knob (position 4) (left knob up = left coils, right knob up = right coils), then you need to swap around the bridge pup wires. The bridge Hot Output & the bridge Ground connections stay where they are, but swap the bridge Green & White wires and also swap the bridge Red & Black wires. BTW, one of the advantages (with pups that have magnetic polarities like Seymour Duncan pups) of using left coils together & right coils together is that the splits are still hum canceling. SD pups have the north coils on the inside & the south coils on the outsides. If you mix inside coils & outside coils, you're connecting south magnets together (outsides) or north magnetics together (insides). If you go with left-left and right-right, you combine north & south magnets.
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And here's the alternate order. If you want a different order, let me know. Now that the drawing is in Visio, it's easy to move the wires around to create a new one. move the wires around to create a new one.
The wires marked Hot Out & Ground are the ones you would wire up like you would the Black & Green wires of a Seymour Duncan pickup (to the pup switch or the volume pot). If you want to put a phase reversal switch on a pickup, put it after the rotary and the rotary choices will remain as marked.
My 5th position is the Bridge humbucker with the Neck P-90. Position 6 is the Neck humbucker with the Bridge P-90.
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I've drawn up the 4 different connections so that you can see them more clearly. I only did 1 version, the other one just reverses positions 3 & 4.
http://www.strat-talk.com/forum/tech-talk/100121-emulating-seymourduncan-triple-shot-w-switches.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTPZjko1CXc
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http://www.guitar-mod.com/rg_diag_strat.html: THE ULTIMATE STRAT VERSION 1 (S-S-S) (with bridge/neck series switch) 5 way switch with master volume, master tone, master midrange plus a "blow" switch to engage bridge/neck in series as well as a "neck-on" switch to engage the neck pickup with any other. The nice thing about this is that a player can always fall back on the standard strat 5 way switching, but using mini-switches you can access some very cool tones. Either an SPST switch or a push pull pot is used to engage the neck pup with any other to get the 2 missing sounds, namely neck/bridge (telecaster like) and all 3 on. In addition, a 3PDT switch is used to get a series connection between the neck and bridge pickups which will give you a noticeable boost in both volume and bottom end. Also, the 2nd tone control on this mod is converted into a master midrange control which will cut mids as you 10
move down towards 0 (acoustic like) and thicken things a bit as you move towards 10, while staying neutral in the 5 spot.
Here is the control function (B = bridge pup, M =middle pup, N = neck pup) Series Switch OFF OFF Neck-on Switch OFF ON Pos 1 B B,N Pos 2 B,M B,N,M Pos 3 M M,N Pos 4 M,N M,N Pos 5 N N
ON
OFF
B,N in series
B,N in B,N in B,N in series + series + series + B,N in series M M M B,N in B,N in B,N in series + series + series + B,N in series M M M
ON
B,N in series
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http://www.guitar-mod.com/rg_diag_strat.html
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http://www.valvetronix.net/forums/stratocaster-wiring-mod-t3191.html
Got all your new tones? Great put the rest of your strings on, thats it, your done!
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http://www.guitarnuts.com/wiring/sw1.php
Ol Eduardo.
Creio que tenho o circuito que tinha idealizado, mas gostaria de saber algo sobre o mesmo, por isso estou a contact-lo para ver se compreendo alguns pontos.
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2)O Autor deste circuito no tira o boto tone do meio para dar lugar chave 3PDT poderia ter colocado um Vol e tone de 500K, antes coloca um Vol e Tone de 250K e tendo a opo de som BXM Humbucker - Ser assim melhor do que a opo de 2 pot de 500K?
3)Para ser o meu circuito ideal falta um phase reversal em B. Isto muito fcil de fazer certo?
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THE ULTIMATE STRAT VERSION 2 (S-S-S) (with bridge/middle series switch) Like the ultimate strat above only this one engages the bridge and middle pickups for the series link. The benefit here is that if the middle pickup is RWRP (reverse wound reverse polarity) this position will then be hum-cancelling. Here is the control function (B = bridge pup, M =middle pup, N = neck pup) Series Switch OFF OFF ON Neck-on Switch OFF ON OFF ON (note: this has no effect when series switch is engaged) Pos 1 B B,N B,M in series Pos 2 B,M B,N,M B,M in series Pos 3 M M,N B,M in series Pos 4 M,N M,N B,M in series + N Pos 5 N N B,M in series + N
ON
B,M in B,M in B,M in B,M in series + series + series + series + B,M in series + N N N N N
This one engages the bridge and middle pickups for the series link. The benefit here is that if the middle pickup is RWRP (reverse wound reverse polarity) this position will then be hum-cancelling. Here is the control function (B = bridge pup, M =middle pup, N = neck pup)
Series Switch OFF OFF Neck-on Switch OFF ON Pos 1 B B,N Pos 2 B,M B,N,M Pos 3 M M,N Pos 4 M,N M,N Pos 5 N N
ON
OFF
B,M in series
B,M in series
B,M in series
ON
B,M in B,M in B,M in B,M in series + series + series + series + B,M in series + N N N N N
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2)O Autor deste circuito no tira o boto tone do meio para dar lugar chave 3PDT poderia ter colocado um Vol e tone de 500K, antes coloca um Vol e Tone de 250K e tendo a opo de som BXM Humbucker - Ser assim melhor do que a opo de 2 pot de 500K?
3)Para ser o meu circuito ideal falta um phase reversal em B. Isto muito fcil de fazer certo?
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Adding a 4-way switch to a Tele is one of my absolute favorite mods. Without any visual differences to the instrument you get a totally different and really really useful 4th sound, namely bridge and neck pickups in series. Normally, when 2 pickup are combined in position 2 of a Telecaster, they are wired in parallel. This is a fine and very classic Fender sound. The nice thing about the 4-way mod is that you don't lose this sound, as the classic parallel sound still remains in position 2. However, you gain this really beefy tone with the added series connection in position 4. It provides a noticeably thicker and louder sound that is a bit darker as well. In esssence, you've taken the 2 single coil pickups and combined them to become a humbucker in this position. I like to kick this position in for solos. The only drawback of this mod (which in my opinion is pretty minor) is the potential for a bit more added noise, but only when in position 1 (note: I refer to the "bridge pickup only" position as position 1). I will explain the reason for this noise. as well as a solution. WHAT CAUSES THIS? The reason for the added noise in 1 position is due to the fact that the ground wire on the neck pickup must be "lifted" away from ground and soldered to one of the lugs on the 4 way switch (henceforth I will refer to this as a "ground lift"). In a nutshell, when the bridge pickup is engaged alone (in position1) your neck pickup isn't grounded because of the ground lift, so you may experience some extra noise.
WHAT IS THE SOLUTION? Use the metal cover of the neck pickup as a shield. To do this, you will need to make a minor modification to your neck pickup. You will need to do three simple things (please refer to figure 1 below): 1. Break the existing connection between the metal cover and the pickups ground wire. To do this, simply break the connection between point "C" and point "A" as depicted in figure 1 below. 2. Solder an additional wire to the metal cover. To do this, you don't actually solder to the cover, but rather to the tab on the bottom of the pickup (this is point "C" in figure 1 below). 3. Connect this new wire to ground (usually this will be the casing of your volume pot). figure 1
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Here's a hint: if the neck pup always plays, the neck pup's negative lead has a path to ground, and is NOT going through the switch exclusively. You seem to be confused about how the switch works. There's only ONE throw where the left and right sides are connected - throw #4, the series combo. Here's a quick drawing that I did, perhaps this will help:
The lugs with the "C" next to them (at the opposite ends of the poles (rows of lugs)) are the COMMON lugs for this switch - they are the constant against which the other lugs are switched. You can readily see how this scheme switches the bridge's HOT lead and the neck's NEGATIVE lead, with the neck's HOT lead always connected to the volume pot.
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If you look at the two lugs with the "1" near them, you will be able to trace the signal path like this: The bridge pup hot (and neck pup hot) connect to the volume pot. But, only the bridge pup plays, because the neck pup's negative lead is NOT grounded. For "2", the bridge pup plays AND the neck pup plays, because the neck pup's negative lead now has a path to ground. For "3", the neck pup only plays - the bridge pup's hot is NOT connected, and the neck pup's negative still has a path to ground. For "4", you get series - the neck pup's negative lead is now connected to the bridge pup's HOT lead, so they play in series. Not shown in this drawing is the neck pup's ground/shield lead - it has NOTHING to do with the switching, and just gets soldered to ground. As you look at the drawing, notice that the two poles (rows of lugs down the side) are reversesymmetrical - in other words, turning the switch 180 degrees and rewiring (as Drak tried) has no effect on the function of the switch! One other thing that COULD be an issue here - I've seen this on Strat 5-ways - is that you may have a non-Fender switch with a different lug layout. I haven't seen a 4-way like this, but there's always a first time - so it would be odd, but possible... In other words, the common lugs may be at the other end of the poles - instead of bottom-left and top-right, as shown in the drawing, the switch may have been manufactured with top-left and bottomright as commons. This is a common issue when people use the replacement 5-ways from Stewmac.com and a few others in a Fender axe - the commons are at the "wrong end" of the row of lugs (poles). And I don't EVEN want to get into the Mega-S switches! If this were the case, then all you need to do is "mirror-image" the drawing - reverse it left for right so that the commons in the drawing match your switch. You should be able to meter-check this, or heck, even just eyeball it by looking at the wiper.
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http://www.strat-talk.com/forum/tech-talk/109785-5-way-tele-wiring.html
This is what I've come up with. It is untested.
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3. Tele with 4-Way Switch This is another cool wiring scheme that gives you all the traditional sounds plus something extra. The only special part you need is a 4-way switch.
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This gives you the usual Tele sounds in the first three positions. But in position 4, you get both pickups in series like a humbucker. Its a big boost in output and a big, fat tone. But you need to make one important adjustment: The neck pickups cover has to be grounded with a separate wire. That means you have to flip the pickup over and cut the little un-insulated jumper wire that connects to the cover. That leaves a 1/4-inch nub of wire connected to the cover. Attach a new wire to that, and connect it to ground.
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This wiring works great with any vintage-output Tele pickups. Its also great with our Five-Two for Tele pickups, which session players like Brent Mason and Dean Parks like because they provide great Tele twang, but with a slightly tighter, more focused low end.
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http://www.geocities.jp/dgb_studio/2svari_e.htm#51
2S51
SW2
PU
Remark
SW1 1 -1 1 -1 1:UP, -1:DOWN +:Parallel x:Series SW1,SW2:6P ON-ON Mini Toggle Switch -1 1 1 -1 PU1 PU2 PU1+PU2 Parallel PU1xPU2 Series
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2S48 POS 1 2 3 4 5 PU Front Neck
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2S49 POS 1 2 3 4 5 PU Front Neck Remarks
Front + Rear Parallel Rear Rear Bridge without Tone Bridge with Tone
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http://www.geocities.jp/dgb_studio/index_e.htm
2S26
POS 1 2 3 4 PU Remark (PU1+C1)xPU2 Series with C1 PU1+C1 PU1 PU1+PU2 with Capacitance Neck Parallel 25
PU2
Bridge
+:Parallel x:Series -:Out of Phase C1:100PF-0.1uF C2:.047uF C3:0.001uF See 3Way5PositionSW Rev2 01/101/10 See 3Way5PositionSW
2S26A C1:.047uF C3:0.001uF USAGE Position 2 : You turn VR2 c.c.w. a bit, You choice sweet tone.
2S26JH
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2S23
POS PU Remark 1 PU1 Neck 2 PU1-(PU2xC2) Out of Phase(Parallel) with C2 3 PU1+PU2 Parallel 4 (PU1+C3)xPU2 Series with capacitance 5 PU2 Bridge
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2S21
POS PU Remark 1 PU1 Neck 2 PU1-(PU2xC2) Out of Phase(Parallel) with C2 (fatter than out of phase) 3 PU1+PU2 Parallel 4 (PU1+C3)xPU2 Series with capacitance(fatter than Tap) 5 PU2 Bridge
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2S09
POS PU 1 PU1 2 3 4 5 Remarks Neck Out of Phase PU2-PU1 (Parallel) PU1+PU2 Parallel PU1xPU2 Series PU2 Bridge
Mod for Fender Telecaster Note Note It is necessary to separate pickupcover's ground and pickup's ground. You can get 4-pole 5-way switch on Guitar Shop Supply. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX 2S27
POS 1 2 3 4 5 PU Remark
(PU1+C1)xPU2 Series with C1 PU1+C1 PU1 PU1+PU2 PU2 with capacitance Neck Parallel Bridge
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http://www.shredguitars.com/showthread.php?t=31910
http://www.guitarnuts.com/wiring/menu.php
WCR
04-28-2005, 12:40 PM Originally posted by A440 just a note that WCR recommends using higher value pots than the std 250K used in most strats. Fralins are designed to be used with 250K. 300's seem to be the favorites. 250's tend to choke them a little. I think Muddy uses 500's, but some find that to be a little much.
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Cybercat
04-28-2005, 01:18 PM I have the 500s with my SRs too, it gives me a little more bite for when I need it, but usually the tone (& vol) controls on the Strat are set for the correct tone for "the devil's music" : - 6, 6, 6... :rolleyes:
Reviews pickups:
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http://en.audiofanzine.com/guitar-pickup/
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Ron's pickups are a breed apart, I installed a set of the 50/60's in my Strat in December, and I'm still in awe!! This guy doesn't have a website, doesn't advertise, and by word of mouth alone his pickups are the most sought after Strat and Tele pickups with up to a 5 month wait!! He works alone and every pickup is done by hand. If you need to get in touch with him, his email address is; t2ellis@pacbell.net his number is : 760-822-3354 Please be patient after emailing or calling, the guy is super-busy.. I emailed him and we spoke on the phone today. The 50/60s go for $300 and there's an 18-week back order. We spoke for about 20 mins. Very nice guy, very knowledgable.
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http://www.diyguitarmods.com/rewire-humbucker-instructions.php
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