ADVANCED FLAT KNITTING LEARNING DIARY

ABHINAV VERMA KNITWEAR DESIGN SEMESTER-VI

Brief Content:
1. Preparation of material for knitting 2. Bases of knitting technology 3. Knitted structures 4. Working and controlling systems of knitting machines 5. Yarn supply 6. Fabric take-off 7. Checking equipment 8. Machine drives 9. Knitted technical textiles

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0. Introduction
Advantages of knitting:
High productivity Great variability (wide usage) Possibilities of shaping (ready-made clothes) Wasteless production

History:
Archaeology rests of knitted fabrics from 6-th century Mechanical knitting reverend William Lee 1589 invention of the first knitting machine No revolutionary inventions such as shuttleless weaving and open end spinning in knitting. Why? 1/3

1. Preparation of material for knitting

Which properties should have yarn packages, suitable for knitting? How is it possible to improve yarn properties? Which properties are suitable for knitting process? Is material preparation necessary?
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A. Aims of material preparation

The knitting system should be supplied by: Yarn of appropriate quality without defects, which could cause problems in knitting (thick places in yarn, parts of low strength). Yarn flexible, with low friction coefficient. Yarn should have suitable axial tension with low variability.
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Reason for yarn properties:

Yarn must bear multiplied bend and tensile stress increase when high speed is used ... Yarn must fit into given gap g

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Changes in yarn speed and stress

Speed vy corespons with speeds of l1, l2, l3 change, is variable. Tensile force F is increased by friction.

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Main operations of yarn preparation:

The most important operation is yarn (yarns) rewinding:
Individual yarns winding Many yarns warping

Main aims of yarn rewinding:

To form the yarn body of suitable geometry and mass (why extremes are not good?). To remove imperfect cuts of yarn, to decrease friction and increase flexibility.
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Other operations of yarn preparation:

Twisting (folding) of spun yarn reduction of torsion moment, increase of yarn durability. Texturing of multifilament. Bulking of some yarns (some fibers shrinks). Twisting or covering of multifilament yarns.

Economical impact of preparation: the costs, caused by problems at knitting, are higher.
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B. Knitting materials (yarns)

Suitable yarns: soft and bulky with similar character as knitted fabric, and so: Spun yarns with lower twist. Multifilament usually textured. Yarns forming stitches (loops) should be uniform, flexible, of sufficient strength, with low friction. Yarns not forming stitches may have another properties (even flex, glass, carbon fibers etc. could be used).

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Multifilament without twist problems when some filament is broken (creates bunches or neps, could be kept by neighboring yarns ): Impact of twist: migration of fibres occurs each filament is alternatively on the surface and inside the yarn.
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C. Preparation of individual yarns

Unwinding in knitting process: Sometimes is interrupted, we cannot rely on creation of balloon. How to eliminate yarn to bobbin friction?
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Usual bobbines (packages, cross-winding):

a) Conical (with higher slant cone angle). b) Vario-conical (slant increases with diameter). c) Bi-conical with lower slant (cone). Why? It is necessary to receive sufficient compactness if material of low friction is used.

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Winding machines:
Drive can be realized:
From axis (tube) enables precise winding. Peripheral (bobbin rolls on driving drum) chaotic winding.

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Yarn preparation (lubrication) by:

Solid matter paraffin (for spun yarns). Liquid matter (oil etc., for multifilament).

Yarn stretching (definition of axial tension):

Setting of yarn elongation. Necessary for bobbin compactness. Checking of yarn strength. Yarn cleaning (sensors: photoelectrical, capacitive).

Change of position of yarn layers:

Through winding, next yarn layers presses to previous and push them near the package axis the yarn is shortened.

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Precise and chaotic winding:

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Drive (a from axis, b peripheral):

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Peripheral drive by grooved drum:

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Automatic winding machine, individual control:

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Automatic winding machine, group control:

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Automatic winding machine automate doffing:

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Small rewinding machine (yarn rests etc.):

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Yarn cleaning Uster Classimat (tester):

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Fancy yarn folding:

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Fancy yarn folding (loop yarn):

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D. Preparation of warps

Warp many yarns. Knitting from giant creel is not suitable, usual is to wind many yarns on one beam. Necessary condition similar length of all yarns in the fabric. If the yarn consumption is individual (patterned fabric) it is necessary to use creel.
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1. Section warping
Narrow warp beams are used, several of them form final warp. Advantage only one yarn rewinding.

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Shape of the warp beam

Yarn body shape should be cylindrical (the same length of all yarns). Examples of errors:

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1. Section warping
Warping machine:
1 beam; 2 pressure drum; 3 reeds; 4 electrostatic charge eliminators; 5 working table; 6 warp magazine; 7 photoelectrical sensor; 8 creel

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Section warping example of machine

2. Beam warping
For lower yarns number are used so called pattern beams a set of X-wound bobbins on 1 tube:

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2. Basics of knitting technology 2.1 Basic principles

What are specific features of knitting, from which basic elements it is composed? How to save material at knitting?

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Is it at all possible?
May fabric be formed from one system of yarns with fixed all ends?

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Yes, by change in yarn geometry

Forming of kink (loop) on then yarn

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Mutual interlooping of kinks

Repeatedly kinks of the yarn are pulled through similar element from another yarns.

Advantage: easy fabric creation (short movements). Disadvantage: easy destruction (symmetrical 1/35 structure).

Basic elements:
Kink (loop) of yarn (open, closed). Knitted stitch or loop (F - face, R reverse side).

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Groups of elements:
Course Wales. a Weft, b warp knitted fabric.

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Loops in warp knitted structures:

Yarn input: from previous course from the right or the left side Yarn output: into next course to the right or the left side

Asymmetrical stitches mean worse shape stability of fabric

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Another basic elements:

a) Tuck stitch (two loops are interlooped with one stitch) with only two crossing points b) Float stitch (on back or reverse of the loop) c) Face float stitch (on face of the loop)

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Knitted products:
Continuous fabric Yardage (metrage) flat a, tubular b.

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Pieces or panels:
Not shaped c In-plane shaped d, e, Spatial-shaped f (or 3D shaped). 1 welt (fast starting c.) 2 separating course

Example of products (sock):

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Example of products (glove):

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Example of products (cap):

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Example of products (artificial vain, stent):

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2.2 Patterning and classification of knitted structures

Is it really necessary to draw knitted structures by loop diagram? It is possible to create system (classification) of knitted structures?

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What does it means patterning?

Symbolic (simplified) representation of structure notation. Topological description of yarn interlooping without respect on dimensions and shape. Weft structures many possibilities, no of them is ideal (we shall try 3 systems: Prusa, VUP, English). Warp structures one generally used system.
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System of Prof. Prusa (Austria):

It is not dependant on colors. Ideal for structures with loop transfer. Only local use.
1 face stitch 2 reverse stitch 3 tuck stitch 4, 5 transferred stitches
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English system:
Not providing an easy survey of structures with many courses i repetition.

Widely used. Showing only 1 knitted course

1 face stitch (open!)
2 reverse stitch (open!) 3 tuck stitch 4 float stitch 5 symbol of needle

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System VUP (Brno CZ):

Uses the most common symbols (alphabet; some systems use X instead of V). Chosen symbols resembles appearance of knitted elements.

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Warp knitted structures:

The scheme of yarn path in fabric or yarn layin on needles.
1 knitted stitch (overlap) 2 float (underlap)

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Classification of structures classes:

WeS - Weft single faced (1 type of stitches) WeD - Weft double faced (Face and Reverse wales) WeP - Purl (F. and R. stitches in 1 wale) WeI - Interlock (2 intermeshed WeD)

WaS - Warp single faced (1 type of stitches) WaD - Warp double faced (F. and R. wales)
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Classification of structures groups:

1. Structures with full stitches number (all-knit). The best utilisation of machine productivity. 2. Structures with missing stitches. Some needles are not active (temporarily or permanently). 3. Structures with tuck stitches. 4. Structures with complementary yarns. To the basic structure some other yarns are added. These yarns are not necessary for fabric integrity. Connection with basic structure by double stitches, tucks or by another way. 5. Structures with loop transfer of with another structure modification.
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2.3 Basic actions of knitting machines

What enables knitting needle to catch and keep new yarn and simultaneously to release (knock-over) old stitch? How the activities of needles are coordinated in the course formation?

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The types of knitting needles:

Knock-over of old loop 4: a) By swing of the latch 2 (latch needle). b) By pressing of long flexible hook (bearded needle). c) By independently controlled latch 3 (bipartite compound needle)
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Examples of needles:

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Non-traditional knitting principle:

Revolving knitting element till now not practically used (Czech invention; problems with elements bedding etc.)

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Stitch formation (latch needle):

Positions and phases: a) Normal (basic) b) First tuck c) Clearing d) Second tuck + yarn feeding e) Latch closing f) Knock-over g) Loop length formation
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Stitch formation - wave:

1. Needle track 2. Trick wall 3. Cams 4. New yarn 5. Needle buts 6. Old stitches 7. Hook of needle on stitch cam 8. Yarn feeder vw working speed vn-c speed of needles relatively to cams
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Warp knitting (yarns feeding):

Simultaneous feeding of many yarns on many needles. It is necessary: to supply at least one yarn on each needle in each course.
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Introduction
Seamless knitting technology creates one entire complete garment with minimal or no cutting and sewing process. This innovative technology eliminates post labor work, which saves production and time cost. In addition, the technology offers knitwear consumers more comfort and better fit by eliminating seams. Thus, seamless technology provides benefits to manufacturers as well as end users. Seamless knitting technology ha entered the mainstream in the knitwear market.

There are no. of different methods that can be used to produce seamless products.

The seamless knits are in tubular shape, which is produced by high elongation yarns, Circular knitting machines were mostly used to make seamless clothes.
This leads to saving of production costs up to 35% compared to the cut and sew methods.

Year
1589 1863 1864 1800s

Historical Events Contributing to Development of Seamless Knitting

William Lee in England invented the first flat-bed frame to create hosiery. Issac W. Lamb invented the first operational V-bed flat knitting machine including the latch needles. William Cotton of Loughborough patented his rotary-driven machine that used a flat bed to produce fully-fashioned garments The flat knitting machine was fitted with sinkers, which controlled stitches in order to knit single jersey tubular articles such as gloves, socks and berets.

1940
1955 1960s

The manufacture of shaped knitted skirts using a flechage technique was patented in the USA.
The Hosiery Trade Journal reported on the automatic knitting of traditional berets through the shaped sections. Shima Seiki company further explored the tubular-type knitting principle to produce gloves commercially.

1960's
1995

Courtaulds established British patents on the idea of producing garments by joining tube knitting.
Shima Seiki introduced seamless entire garment knitting at ITMA.

Methods Of Production
Seamless clothing can be produce by following methods: Partially machine process (Pasting method) Fully machine process

Linked windows options of fabric design view and technical view.

STOLL Knit and Wear Machine (Stoll)

Fully Machine Process

Seamless garment can also be produce by following

Machines. V-bed flat knitting machines Circular knitting machines

Pasting Method
This method and system makes possible a seamless garment finish that is more comfortable than a finish having seams and other imperfections due to the need to tuck/sew edges and joints. The disclosed seamless technology employs a thin film of adhesive that is preferably ether-based polyurethane although other adhesives are acceptable. This adhesive is pre-laminated on at least one surface prior to lamination to another surface under conditions to control adhesion, stretch, breathability, and longevity of the garment.

Joining Options
Welding, bonding, and heat sealing are other options then customary sewing method.

However, these options have their restrictions over

elasticity. Framis Italia, based in ltaly, is well-known for its welding technology, NoSo that is based on bonding. It is bonding of two fabrics together.

Seamless Machines
Shima Seiki Stoll

Knitting Width Gauge

Shima Seiki WholeGarment Stoll Knit-and-Wear Machines Machines 50 80 (126 203 cm ) 72 84 (183 213 cm) 5 - 18 gauge 5 -18 gauge

Knitting Speed
Racking Knitting System Transfer Sinker System Yarn Carriers Take-down Device Needle Selection Needle

Max 1.3m/sec
Max 3 total 3 4 systems Simultaneous transfer

Max 1.2m/sec
Max 4 total 3 4 systems Simultaneous transfer

Spring-type movable full sinker Spring-type moveable holdingsystem down sinker system Up to 16 Up to 16 Main/sub take down rollers Electric selection system Latch needles, Compound needles, Slide needles Integrated knit production system allowing planning, design, evaluation and production Main/upper take down rollers Electric selection system Latch needles

CAD system

Complete design, patterning, and programming system

Applications
Sleeveless Shirt Socks

Inner wears Air bags Hand gloves

Sweaters Trousers Skirts

Hats

Bandages

Advantages
Freedom of body movement:

Generally the seam portion of any garment is not having the same elasticity as compared to the body fabric, so the difference in elasticity will affect the free body movement. Since the seamless garment doesnt have any seam in it structure this problem has been eliminated.

 Wider range of fit for different range of body

shapes: In a single garment measurement can suitable for

wider range of fit for different range of body shapes

because of its higher elasticity
Inherent softness:

There are no bulky and annoying stitches at the underarm points, shoulders and neck lines, which may cause irritation to the wearer, since the garment having seam free structure it provides the soft feel only.

It reduces labour cost:

Due to the elimination cutting and sewing process

it is obvious to reduce more labour involvement
Engineered features like

comfort, fit, and ventilation we can obtain from this technology. Most of the fabric wastages occur at cutting stage, since this seamless garment excludes this process fabric consumption per garment is less, so

Minimum yarn consumption:

the yarn consumption also very low.

 Smaller work space:

Involvement of sewing operation is less except few cases in the garment production system, which leads less space requirement. Reduce yarn and fabric inventory: Cutting and sewing process require more fabric as

well as yarn inventory due the absence of this

process no need of maintaining huge inventory. Fewer product failure: Most of the garment failures are due to seam failure the seamless garment doesn't have the seam, so that garment failure is also very less.

 Quick samples:

Sampling is a costly as well as time consuming process, because small portion of fabric as well

accessories need to be prepared, since this seamless

garment is exemption, here we can prepare quick samples.
Cost of production is less:

This leads to saving of production costs up to 40

percent compared to the customary garment

production system

Design possibilities:

Seamless garment Technology not only to create several types of tubular formed knitting but also to build diverse design structures on the tubular knitted garments simultaneously.
Just in time production:

Just-in-time production is possible with the help of seamless technology.

Technical Issues
Although

seamless garment knitting technology provides a variety of advantages for the knitting industry, it still has several technical issues. The main problem in complete garment knitting is fabric take up5. Maintaining the tension of each loop (i.e., stitch) is difficult.
Fabric

design as well as garment design on jacquard is highly difficult task. Problem to make the welt and cuff portions. Frequent changes in the knitting machine setting