Fabric and garment finishing

Disclaimer: The prices given here are purely an estimate as the industry does not reveal the costing methods in the websites or otherwise.

By Ayush Guha Jitendra Pal Singh P. Tejasvi Shailja Murthy

INTRODUCTION- COST ESTIMATION OF FINISHES

The properties of synthetic fibers, most important among them being polyamide, polyester and are essentially different from those of natural cellulosic and wool fibres. Hence the sequence of finishing operations is likely to be different. While cellulosic's require a resin finishing treatment to impart easy-care properties, synthetic fibers already have these easy-care criteria and require only a heat setting operation. The use of 100% synthetic textiles

Finishes for natural fibers.

Finishes for Synthetic fibers.

Mercerisation.
Crease Resist Finish.

Singeing.
Calendaring.

Sanforizing or Pre-shrinking.
Anti-microbial Finish.

Heat Setting.
Stiffening and filling Process.

Hydrophilic Finishes.
Anti-pilling finish. Anti-static finish. Non-slip Finishes. Fire Resistant or Flame Retardant Finish.

Resin Finishes: Used on cotton or rayon, Keeps fabric smooth after washing and drying with little or no ironing needed
So-fieners : Generally used with resins to improve the way the fabric feels. May cause fastness problems Soil Resistant Finishes: Used extensively on carpets and upholstery

Heat setting: Using high temperatures to stabilize fabrics containing polyester, nylon, or triacetate, Not effective on cotton or rayon. Raising: Two main types 1. Napping 2.Sueding

Shearing : Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces, particularly

napped fabrics, to a uniform height

A. Using high temperatures to stabilize fabrics containing polyester, nylon, or triacetate B. Not effective on cotton or rayon C. May be performed in fabric form or garment form D. May cause shade variation from side-to-side if done prior to dyeing; may change the shade if done after dyeing

COST:10-15Rs more per meter PARAMETERS: Energy for steam, tempaerature, pressure, etc.

2. RAISING
There are mainly two types of raising. They are;
1. NAPPING: Using wire-covered rolls to "dig out" individual fiber ends to the surface COST: 1-5 Rs more per meter 2. SUEDING: Using abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper, emery cloth, etc.) to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade change. Such special type of raised surface fabric is corduroy

COST: 1-5 Rs more per meter

III. SHEARING
A. Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces, particularly napped fabrics, to a uniform height B. This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency C. Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface COST: 5-10 Rs more per meter

IV. CALENDERING
Calendering is a final process in which heat and pressure are applied to a fabric by passing it between heated rollers, imparting a flat, glossy, smooth surface. Luster increases when the degree of heat and pressure is increased. Calendering is applied to fabrics in which a smooth, flat surface is desirable, such as most cottons, many linens and silks, and various man-made fabrics. It is usually an essential process at textile processing units. 1. SIMPLE CALENDERING: COST: 1-5 Rs more per meter 3. SCHREINER CALENDERING: COST: 5-10 Rs more per meter

2. FRICTIONAL CALENDERING: COST: 5-10 Rs more per meter

4. CIRE CALENDERING: COST: 10-15 Rs more per meter

DECATISING
In decatising, the wool fabric is rolled up onto a perforated decatising drum under controlled tension. The fabric is steamed for up to ten minutes and then cooled down by drawing ambient air through the fabric roll. The piece is then reversed and steamed again in order to ensure that an even treatment is achieved. There are several quite different types of decatising; batch decatising continuous decatising wet decatising machines dry decatising machines COST: 10-15 Rs more per meter

SANFORIZING "COMPRESSIVE SHRINKAGE)

It is a mechanical finishing technique for producing cotton fabric with less than 1% shrinkage during laundering. Damp fabric is placed on a taut felt blanket or rubber belt that passes around a feed-in roller. The fabric is forced to stretch at the outside curve of the blanket where it is ironed by an electrically heated metal shoe. The blanket then reverses its direction around a steam-heated drum. At this point the blanket surface is shortened and the fabric adhering to it is forced to conform with the blanket of the compress and is dried. COST: 1-5 Rs more per meter

Can be defined as use of chemicals on fabric to achieve desired properties Usually they take place before garment making and after coloration or dyeing It can be durable or non durable Mostly done on emulsions, water being the base solution.

Property Fiber type Yarn construction Fabric construction

Pick up Higher wet pickup with hydrophyllic fibers More pick up with low twist or open yarns More pickup in open weave

Effect on cost Increased cost for more fine fibers Cost increases for yarns with more twist Tightly woven fabric take more dip time therby increasing cost

Wettability Pressure of squeeze rolls Length of immersion time Viscosity of emulsion Tempreture of the emulsion Concentration of emulsion Higher viscosity, higher pickup Tempreture changes with viscosity and pressure Higher concentration leads to less dip time Higher tempreture increases cost More concentrated solution are more costly Higher tempreture lower pickup Increase in pressure inccreases cost More immersion time more is cost

Functional finishes or special purpose finishes are applied to textile to enhance its performance in a specific area.

Although these finishes do not alter the appearance of textiles they do address some consumer problem or make the textile substrate suitable for a specific purpose.

Table 1: Classification of functional finish

1. Stabilization : Shrinkage control a. Relaxation shrinkage and finishes e.g. Sanforising b. Shape retention finishes Durable press finishes a. Soil and stain release finishes b. Abrasion resistance finishes c. Anti slip finishes d. Fume-fading-resistance finishes e. Surface or back coating e.g. Carpet back coating f. Light stabilizing finishes g. Pilling resistance finishes

2. Appearance retention finishes

3. Comfort related finishes Cost:

a. Porosity control [water proof] finishes b. Water absorbent finishes c. Anti static finishes d. Fabric softening [Enzyme/bio finishing]

4. Biological control finishes

a. Insect and moth proof finishes b. Rot proof finishes c. Antimicrobial finishes d. Mould and Mildew control finishes e. Microencapsulated finishes

5. Safety related finishes

a. Flame retardant finishes b. Liquid barrier finishes [protection from hazard liquor] c. Light reflecting finishes

The challenges facing the finishing industry have intensified in the last one decade, with finishers faced with the new task of striving to survive in this global and highly competitive market.

Consumers demand more durability, more functionality and more cost effectiveness from their clothing.

1: Consumer is the king 2: Value for money concept 3: Markets looking for constant change in the product mix The normal life cycle of cotton, which was only up to finished fabric, in the early 1960s, is now extended to branded and specialty products

Finish name
Anti slip finishes

Cost increment
Rs. 10-15 per meter

Soil and stain release finishes

Abrasion resistance finishes Porosity control [water proof] finishes Anti static finishes

Rs 15-20 per meter

Rs 12-15 per meter Rs 15-22 per meter Rs 12-15 per meter

Flame retardant finishes

Rs 15- 20 per meter

Fragrance finishes

Rs 5-10 per meter