20th century era (1900 to 1920)

Edwardian era..
The period between 1901-1910 is often called the Edwardian Era after Queen Victoria's successor, King Edward VII. Sophisticates and the French also refer to this time as La Belle Epoque, or "Beautiful Age. It was an era of beautiful clothes and the peak of luxury living.

Social impact world war I

In the early part of the decade, fashion was fairly sedate, but in 1914, World War I broke out. The world changed and by the end of the decade, so did fashion. The Great War (1914 to 1918) changed people's lives in dramatic ways. Men went off to fight in Europe and women were left at home to run the factories. As women's independence increased, so too did their levels of activity

Inter-War Industrial Problems 1920 - 1940

Between 1920 and 1940 Britain was faced with industrial problems. 19th century industrial techniques had already peaked and were no longer appropriate in a competitive world. British technology had been in decline since well before 1914. Post war Europe was in chaos and a return to the Empire days of before simply did not happen. The basic industries of ship building, coal and textiles never recovered from the slump they were in at the end of 1920.

Events.. and movements

San Francisco was devastated by an earthquake in 1906. Events like the women's suffrage movement, the roots of Prohibition, and the Great Influenza epidemic of 1918 fundamentally changed American society. The RMS Titanic sank on her maiden voyage in 1912

Influence on art..
Picasso was in his blue and pink period. Fauvism, cubism, and other art movements and renewed interest in Slavic / traditional Russian folk art . Frank Lloyd Wright's Arts & Crafts movement began to take hold. Artists such as Mariano Fortuny in Italy and the Wiener Werkstaette group in Austria continued to design Aesthetic reform costumes such as Fortuny's Delphos Dress, and dress became progressively more comfortable, practical and aesthetically pleasing in this whole era.

Technological changes
Wright brothers were making aviation history. The function of clothing was becoming more practical especially with the motorcar coming into vogue. U.S. Rubber developed the first sneaker, called Keds, in 1917. The word "sneaker" was coined quite literally because the rubber sole made the shoe stealthy. the first American plant began production of artificial silk new fabric in 1910. In 1924 this fiber became known as rayon. Mass marketing meant that the wireless and gramophone soon reached ordinary households. People began to make their own judgments listening to entertainment, music, news and current affairs.

Discoveries and innovation

The curiosity for exotic arts and culture was fueled by the discovery of Egyptian King Tutankhamen's tomb. The introduction of the Penguin paperback book encouraged people to read and self improve. Magazines disseminated knowledge to women who had gained a new independence after the war years.

Theatre
During the years prior to World War 1, the theater was a strong influence on fashion. The theater was also closely linked with the art world. Many artists, including Picaso and Matisse, also designed costumes and sets for Diaghilev's ballets. Photography reached a heyday and the first narrative film, 'The Great Train Robbery' (1903) was released. silent films featuring stars such as Charlie Chaplin and Mary Pickford were adored. Ballets Russes - In 1909 the Ballets Russes, directed by Serge Diaghilev was established in Paris. Cleopatre (Cleopatra) was the first ballet produced in Paris by the Ballets Russes. Scheherazade was performed a year later and had an instantaneous effect on haute couture.

DRESSES..
By 1900 tailored and tailor made suits were firmly established. Women entering a changing, more commercial workplace found it a useful all purpose outfit. Dresses took on a whole new dimension. Gone was the corseted waist and in its place was the hobble skirt that mimicked the "harem" skirts of the Middle East. The vertical line became so pronounced after 1910 that highly fashionable dresses tended to hobble the wearer.

The Gibson girl

This particular image was a cartoon character drawn by the American artist Charles Dana Gibson. between 1890 and 1910 he satirized society with his image of 'The New Woman' competitive, sporty and emancipated as well as beautiful. narrow, gored skirt worn with an embroidered blouse or 'shirtwaist'.

Clothes Styles during the First World War 1914-1918

All the changes that were forced on a rigid society were a direct result of the war. Women stopped wearing jewellery and lavish clothes. The effect of war on fashion styles was that military braiding, belts with buckles and shorter skirts were seen everywhere. Fashion history shows that clothes got shorter during the First World War out of practical necessity. In 1915 the hemline rose dramatically to mid calf, a height never before reached. Waistlines were still quite high following the Directoire style. But the double layered skirts as if to compensate for the length had a fuller top skirt often like a mini crinoline, worn over a slimmer under skirt also made of the top skirt fabric. Such garments were often fur trimmed. Bright colours faded from sight and only sober colours were worn as the war dragged on. Everyone was affected by the death of a loved one and so subdued dresses were simply a matter of good taste showing patriotism. By 1918 the fuller top skirt had gone and the calf length long skirt remained.

Women and War Work

Many women gave up domestic service work and worked. They drove trams and collected the fares, did administrative tasks, lamp lighting, postal work, worked as chimney sweeps and nursed. Women did farm work working as Land Girls. They also served in the WAAC, the Navy, the Red Cross and the Police began admitting women. By 1917 over 700,000 women were employed to make munitions, wearing a working uniform of blouse and peg top trousers accessorised by scarves and fashion items. As a recognition of their efforts it was later replaced by a uniform of khaki overalls and caps. They had gained a new freedom working outside of homes with set hours and a comradeship and respect that they relished.

changes after world war I

Sportswear was increasing in popularity and such fashions were soon incorporated into everyday dress. The fashionable man in the early 1910s was seen wearing a one or three button cutaway frock coat or the double breasted sack which is a straight lined jacket. Boys and younger men wore three piece suits for dress, consisting of a coat, vest and knee pants which were tight fitting and usually made with 'double knees'.

 cosmetics became a major industry. Glamour was now an important fashion trend. Women wore suits with long hemlines and somewhat full skirts, often with belts at the waist of the jackets. In 1927 when short skirts were all the rage, young women strove to show off their knees with increasing abandon.

 Egyptian themes appeared in everything from furniture to clothing. The late 1920s saw the adoption of two-toned spectators for men, perfect with the popular knickers. Travelling suits were also necessary since motor cars had come into vogue Along with the ladies' traveling suits, loose topcoats in leather were worn, or special motoring coats from Burberry or Aquascutum.

Hats and gloves

By 1910 the enormous hat was fashionable. Men's fashions continued a trend towards casualness. The hat virtually disappeared in the United States by 1960. Ties and trouser legs widened and narrowed, cuffs came and went, but men's clothing remained loose. Although a variety of hats replaced the cloche of the 1920s, both hats and gloves, at least in the United States, went completely out of fashion

Hats and gloves

Washable kid gloves were always worn with outdoor garments both in the winter and the summer. Fancy gloves were also made in suede and silk and covered with fine embroidery.

Shoes
Day shoes were typically boots. Evening shoes were more diverse, with the popular style for women a court shoe with a small, Louis heel. These were often embellished with embroidery or metallic thread and glass or jet beading on the toes. Evening boots were often made from soft kid or satin, with rows of beaded straps embellishing the shin. During 1910to 1920 ,Shoes and hosiery also became more exotic and colorful Poiret commissioned the Perugia shoemakers to create a line of Eastern-style jeweled slippers.

Shoes..
Shoes and clothing were collected as part of the war effort and people were encouraged to be less frivolous. Lace-up boots came back into fashion, valued now for their practicality. A variety of materials were used in shoe construction, including leathers mixed with colored canvas

Hair
Many women had begun to cut their hair when doing war work for practical reasons. A compromise between long and short tresses was 'Curtain' hair and was favoured by the genteel. Worn with a band it could be dressed more prettily with a feather at night. Colouring the hair with Henna was popular as it was less risky than using the unreliable chemical dyes of the time, and it looked well with the oriental fashions.

Fashion periodicals
The 1920s saw the emergence of three major women's fashion magazines: Vogue, The Queen, and Harper's Bazaar. Vogue was first published in 1892, but its up-to-date fashion information did not have a marked impact on women's desires for fashionable garments until the 20's. These magazines provided mass exposure for popular styles and fashions.

Jazz
Prohibition, the proliferation of jazz, and the development of mass media were the hallmarks of the 1920s. Evening dresses of the 1920s perfectly suited fashionable dance such as the Shimmy, the Charleston and the Black Bottom. The Rumba, Samba and Conga were all popular dances in this period.

Tango craze
Dancing was very popular and had a great influence on 1920s fashion. A famous American dancing couple called the Castles helped spread the new dance crazes and magazines showed the steps of the latest dance, with a graphic for each new movement.

DESIGNERS
Paul Poiret, a popular designer of the time, is credited with this fashion movement heavily influenced by Eastern design and colors. The great fashion designer Gabrielle Chanel 18831971 self styled herself to be known as Coco Chanel. By 1920 the silhouette of her clothing designs have come to be the epitome of 20's style. The work of other famous designers beside hers seemed old fashioned and outmoded belonging as they did to the pre World War One era.