EMBELLISHMENT MIRROR

WORK,
EMBROIDERIES OF
RAJASTHAN AND GUJARAT
AND
BANJARA EMBROIDERY
EMBROIDERIES OF
RAJASTHAN
Embroidery of Rajasthan brings new
character and dimension to any article that
it graces.

It is an ancient craft which has changed
over time to reflect the prevailing social,
material and sometimes even the political
mood of the times.

Rajasthan is culturally rich and has
artistic and cultural traditions which
reflect the ancient Indian way of life.

HISTORY
Rajasthan is known for its traditional, colorful
art. The block prints, tie and dye prints, Bagaru
prints, Sanganer prints, and Zari embroidery are
major export products from Rajasthan.

Rajasthan is a shoppers' paradise, with beautiful
goods found at low prices.

Rajasthani dresses are usually designed in bright
colours like red, yellow and orange.


JODHPUR
JAIPUR
BAGRU
SANGANER
JALOR
MAJOR PLACES IN RAJASTHAN
WHERE EMBROIDERIES ARE DONE
MOTIFS USED IN RAJASTHAN EMBROIDERY
TYPES OF RAJASTHAN
EMBROIDERY
PAKKO BHARAT

KHAREK

KHAMBHIRI

MOTI BHARAT

SUF


PAKKO BHARAT
Pakko Bharat is a style of embroidery, so called for its
sturdiness and longevity.

Pakko is derived from Pakka, which means permanent.

STICHES

In this style, a tight square of chain and double buttonhole
stitch, supplemented with the Satin stitch are used to create a
dense pattern on the cloth.

MOTIFS

The motifs used are both Geometric and Floral.
KANCHLA: This Upper
Garment is embellished
with gold and silver work
in Pakko Bharat
Embroidery.
Pg 65, Costume, Textile
and Jewellery of India
MATERIAL USED

The designs are first outlined with a chalk like substance and then
worked pre-dominantly in shades of Red, Gold or Yellow with a
characteristic Black.

Mirrors, called Tika, are used as the centres of flowers and to
form border designs.

Though embroidery threads of silk may be employed, cotton is
usually preferred.

Trimmings like Mirrors, beads, buttons and Tassels enhance this
style to produce richly ornamented odhnas, chaddars and Kanchlis.
BOKANI :
Embroidered cloth
used as a waistband
done in Pakko
Embroidery on
cotton fabric and
cotton thread.
Pg 57, Costume, Textile and Jewellery of India
CHAKLA work in PAKKO BHARAT
Animal Trapping embellished with
PAKKO BHARAT. The head
covering for animal with slits for
horns and eyes.
Pg 66, Costume, Textile and Jewellery of India
KHAREK
Kharek, derives its name from
the fruit of desert, the date and
locally called kharak.

Its characteristic feature is its
cluster of narrow bands or bars of
satin stitch.

The embroider deftly counts
warp and weft threads on the
ground cloth producing the perfect
geometric patterns in which the
bars are arranged.

A piece of cloth heavily
ornamented with KHARAK
embroidery
METHOD AND STITCHES USED

The design is first outlined on the cloth, the
needlewoman uses a black double running stitch as
she counts. The outlines are later filled in multi-
colored threads.Then, unusual effects are produced
using the satin stitch to form small rectangular
designs.

Cotton threads in bright colors add vitality to the
base fabric.

MOTIFS

Its motifs are limited and generally Geometric
Patterns are formed.(Sometimes motifs resemble
Sun).
Kapadu -Womens
Backless Blouse,
embroidered with
KHAREK Embroidery.
KHAMBHIRI

This embroidery produces an identical
effect on both sides of fabric.

STITCHES USED

Simple stitches in cotton thread create
silhouette in various shapes on fabric.

Line and backstitch is used to form
geometric designs in a light embroidery
known as khambhiri

MOTIFS USED

Square, rectangular and floral motifs
are created in this Embroidery.

These designs often have religious
significance.
BUJAKI: Small Purse worked
in KHAMBHIRI Technique
Pg 68, Costume, Textile and
Jewellery of India
THAALPOS:
Cover for
Gifts
embroidered
in
KHAMBHIRI
Style using
Cotton
Threads on
Cotton
Fabrics.
Pg 68, Costume,
Textile and
Jewellery of
India
MOTI BHARAT
Also known as BEAD
WORK, it is done in a way
that beads are not sewn to
the cloth but are fashioned
directly into the articles
using the tri-bead method.

Vibrant colored beads are
strung together , three at a
time with needle and
thread, the designs woven in
such a manner as to form
a solid base.

CHAKLA , Embroidered in MOTI
BHARAT
Pg 68, Costume, Textile and
Jewellery of India
Ornamental doorway decoration.

Beautifully worked in moti bharat
embroidery. It is an auspicious symbol
suspended on doorway. Motifs like
parrots and peacocks signify prosperity
and happiness.











Pg 71, Costume, Textile and Jewellery of India
White beads create the background, while multi colored beads are
added to highlight the motifs.

These beads are elongated or compressed, leaving no gaps in the end
products.

MOTIFS

Commonly used motifs include Parrots, Elephants, Human and Divine
Figures, Floral Designs and Swastik.
TORAN, a door hanging worked in MOTI
BHARAT
Pg 68, Costume, Textile and
Jewellery of India
Products embellished with
MOTI BHARAT Embroidery
SUF



Suf Embroidery is practiced
by the women belonging to the
Sodha Rajput and Megwar
communities.

The literal meaning of suf is
neat and clean, referring to
the outline of the designs
created with a single stitch.
The outlined regions are filled
with satin stitches.


Gaddi, SUF Embroidery incorporating Mirrors
Pg 63, Costume, Textile and Jewellery of
India
METHOD

Stitching in the Suf Embroidery is
done by inserting the needle from
behind the fabric, with the designs
appearing on the front side. This
embroidery is used for adorning
traditional clothes and decorative
cloth items.

MOTIFS

The basic motifs are geometric
patterns mainly triangles from which
all other motifs are said to emanate,
and it is a type of counted thread
embroidery (resembles Phulkari).
Rumal, Cushion Cover. SUF Embroidery in
Cotton Thread on Cotton Fabric
Pg 63, Costume, Textile and Jewellery of
India
SUF BHARAT: Damini , Wedding Shawl. The motifs
are worked by Counted Thread Technique.
Pg 62, Costume, Textile and Jewellery of India
GUJARAT EMBROIDERY

From the early civilizations, Gujarat
is home to handicraft traditions.

Gujarats contemporary indigenous
dress is a cultural manifestation that
has evolved over centuries and has
remained a principal mark of identity
and social cohesion.

In Gujarat it is customary for a
bride to have exquisite hand
embroidered ghagras, odhnis.


HISTORY
Embroidery from the Saurashtra and Kutch regions in Gujarat is not
only famous but also versatile. There are plenty of stitches used to
beautify the product .

The best pick up point for ethnic embroidery in Gujarat is Kutch,
which was once a part of the trade route between Central Asia and the
Far East.

At a very early age the girls acquire the embroidery skills, they
prepare their own exclusive wedding garments and send it to the in-laws
for closer examination, which is one of the important criteria for
deciding matrimonial alliances.


IMPORTANT PLACES FOR EMBROIDERY
IS DONE IN GUJARAT
KUTCH
SAURASHTRA
BHUJ



TYPES OF GUJARAT EMBROIDERY

ABHALA

KATHI

MOCHI BHARAT

KANBIS BHARAT

MOTI BHARAT

AHIR BHARAT

SOOF BHARAT

ABHALA
Mirror inset embroidery.
STICHES
Designs are composed by fixing small round
shaped mirrors to the material with the help
of button hole stitch.
The outline is done by hand.
The rest of embroidery is done with silken
thread through stem or herringbone stitch
closely worked.

MOTIFS
Abhala has now become a part of the
ethnic fashion world, where small mirror
discs are fixed with closely worked silken
thread. Usually the mirror work is done on a
dark background with motifs like flowers
etc.




Buttonhole stitch
Herringbone stitch
Abhala Embroidery
KATHI

The nomadic (Rabari) tribes of Gujarat are known for their
Kathi work. As Kathi work is done on fabrics that are dyed in
bright colours, the garments and items made out are unique and
display the folk flavour of rural Gujarat. The women folk
practice this craft.

MATERIAL USED

The women of this community showed preference for black
cloth embroidered in crimson, violet, golden, yellow and white.


RABARI WOMEN
STITCHES USED

A type of embroidery, which
combines chain stitch along with
appliqu work embellished with
small mirrors.
Chain stitch
Some Common Rabari motifs
Some samples of KATHI Work done by the women of kathi Community
Pg 78, Indian textiles
ARI BHARAT


Ari Embroidery is equally old and famous
for its heavy work.
This is done in silk or locally made satin
called Gajji or on a silky satin fabric.
Prepared with the help of an awl it
represents a cobblers stitch, which
requires considerable skill and practice.
The sharper and finer the hook of the awl,
the more refined the quality of the
embroidery.


Small leather pouch
in Ari bharat
Pg 65, Ethnic embroidery of India
Gajji/satin silk cloth embroidered
in MOCHI/ARI work
A fragment of womans skirt
(ghagharo)showing mochi work
done on a silk cloth by a silk
thread
Pg 82, Indian Emroidery
Ari and mochi influenced parrot and flower motifs
A sample of ari work
KANBIS BHARAT

They work with cotton thread and show preference
for yellow, saffron at times white, and use purple and
green for the color schemes.

Sunflower and golden scented cactus
flower,kevada are the common motifs used.

Darning and herring bone stitches are used.

Done on the coverings of the backs of bullocks, the
very tasseled covers for the horns, adornment for the
forehead, face and the muzzle.

They also make special covers for the large wooden
strong boxes, pataras, covers for blankets and quilts,
embroidered with mango shoots, creepers, parrots,
peacocks.


Jhul made of cotton
and embroidered in
silk and cotton,
Kanbi farming
caste, Wadiya
district Saurashtra.
Pg 74, Indian Textiles
MOTI BHARAT

Bead work.

With the help of a needle and thread and large
number of colored beads, designs are woven
creating a solid surface.

The background colors is usually white against
which motifs and patterns are wrought.

MOTIFS

Elephant with howdah, the camel with its snooty
nose in the air, a women churning curds or pounding
grain or decorating herself, a calf drinking milk
from its mother udder are the common motifs used


PRODUCTS ARE:
wall hangings
belts
handbags
decorative items
AHIR BHARAT



The chain is the basic stitch with the use of
interlacement and other variety of stitches.

Insertion of tiny mirrors within embroidery adding to
them a touch of glamour upon the desired areas of the
patterns and the motifs are also seen.





SOME COMMON MOTIFS OF RABARI AND AHIR
EMBROIDERY
Samples of Ahir bharat
PRODUCTS
These are most common embroidered items of Gujarat.

Toran
Pachhitpatis
Chaklas
Bhitiya
Kanjiri
Todla
Patras
Jhul
Shingaria

TORAN
A doorway decoration with hanging flaps.

Its most striking quality is the sense of depth imbued into the surface
as though the forms were carved out of a solid substance, instead of
being stitched on.

Samples of TORANS
PACHHITPATIS

A wall hanging hung outside the door as a welcome symbol for guests.
Pg 72, Indian Textiles



Embroidered square
pieces used to cover
furniture.


CHAKALAS
KANJIRI

An embroidered
backless blouse with
mirror work done on it.
Childs festival jacket
made by Ahir of kutch
Womens wedding aba
Mirror work
embroidered
chakla,rabri
shepherds,kutch
Pg 69, Indian Textiles
Boys jacket by ahir embroidery
Pg 70, Indian Textiles
Mirror work embroidery in Kutch on
a SKIRT
COMMON STICHES USED IN RAJASTHAN
AND GUJRAT EMBROIDERY
MIRROR WORK
MIRROR WORK
Mirror work also known as Ahir Bharat is a famous
embroidery of Gujarat.

ORIGIN
The art of mirror work is supposed to have
originated in Persia sometime around
13th century

CULTURAL INFLUENCE

Shisha or mirror, as it is known in India,
is one of the most attractive characteristic
of Indian embroidery traditions.
Especially the dry desert sands and sunny
areas of India, comprising of parts of Gujarat,
Rajasthan, Haryana and Delhi, support strong
colors and shisha work in most of their
garments, accessories and home furnishing
products.





Pg 66, Costume, Textile and
Jewellery of India
Mirror embroidery is done on heavily embroidered garments
with white thread, mingled with red, orange, blue and green

. In Kathi embroidery of Gujarat, the mirrors are used for
eyes of birds and center of flowers..

Jaisalmer is the trade centre for embroidery and mirror work
items. Quilts are appliqued with geometrically shaped pieces of
dark colours. Camel and horse saddles are decked with
embroidery and applique with a hook. Varities of colored threads
are used on the shoes.

The women in Rajasthan are well skilled at embroidery and
design. Attractive motifs like of tree, birds and animals on their
long skirts (ghaghras). Women at Bikaner embroider chunky red
woolen shawls with a running stitch, in a bandhini pattern.

TECHNIQUES:

As the mirror have no
holes through which they
can be tacked to the
background cloth, they are
normally first held in place
with two vertical and two
horizontal threads.
The object is then to
hold the firmly and
decoratively in place by
surrounding threads.
The top stitching can be
of the Shisha stitch,
buttonhole,herringbone,
twisted chain stitch and
cretan stitch.

Technique of attaching mirrors
in mirror work.
Pg 34 Ethnic embroidery of India
TECHNIQUES
OF
ATTACHING
MIRRORS
Mirror work is used to enhance the general effect of the
pattern, embroidered or drawn on textile or other
decorative items and accessories.

In India, shisha or mirror is available in a variety of
shapes including round, square, triangular or polygonal.

Sizes of the mirrors vary from large to tiny.

Holes are not dug into the mirrors; therefore it has to
be held in place with a framework of stitches over which
the decorative stitches are done.

.The handblown glass shisha the antique shisha or mica
is still used in various sizes and irregular shapes. Machine
cut glass or embroidery shisha is in large usage. There are
also the sequin shisha the large, flat mirrors with a hole
that is covered during stitching.



TYPES OF MIRRORS
Pg 66, Costume, Textile and Jewellery
of India
MATERIAL USED-

Mirrors
Needle
Threads
Fabric

PRODUCTS-

Wall hanging
Skirts
Salwaar-kamiz
Juti (footwears)
Handbags
Cushion covers
Bedsheets
Carpets

Pg 67, Ethnic embroidery of India
WALL HANGINGS
BAG MADE BY MIRROR WORK
COVER OF QUILT
Pg 292,293 Textile arts of India

Neck decoration, horse,
cotton, embroidered with
floss silk (heer), Sindh or
Kutch,
Romanian stitch, open chain
stitch, group of buttonhole
stitch, back stitch.
Forehead covers for
bullocks
Hooded
cap(kantop).cotton,cotton
and wool
Kutch Embroidery Community

Location of the community: Rapar(Kutch), Gujarat

Name of the local entrepreneur/NGO/master
craftsman: Dayaben B. Dohat

Number of artisans: 375

About the group: Kutch, in Gujarat is famous for its
embroidery either in Mushroo silk or cotton.
There are many types of Embroidery done in Kutch. Some of
these are Abhla (Mirror Work), Ahir, Bakhiya, Bavariyo, Ganth
Tako, Paako, Neran and Sakri.
Most of these were traditionally stitched by village women,
for themselves and their families, to create festivity, honor
deities, or generate wealth.

Embroideries contributed to the substantial economic
exchange required for marriage and fulfilled other social
obligations which required gifts.
Embroidery also communicates self and status. Differences in
style create and maintain distinctions that identify community,
subcommunity, and social status within community.
Each style, a distinct combination of stitches, patterns and
colors, and rules for using them, was shaped by historical,
socioeconomic and cultural factors.
This group of 375 women has been trained by an NGO,
Cohesion Foundation Trust Ahmedabad on different embroidery
techniques and CFM provides design inputs to develop products
in both silk and cotton.
The embroidery is done at home and it provides the women an
additional source of income.
BANJARA EMBROIDERY
ORIGIN

Hyderabad, the capital of Andhra Pradesh.

HISTORY

Embroidery is intrinsic to the traditional
costumes of the nomadic Banjara community.
The Banjara were bullock pack drivers and
traders in salt. They belong to one of the oldest nomadic
communities, highly organized and with a language of their own
called GarBoli.
Traditionally,women of the community embroidered
costumes, accessories like storage bags,covers,pouches and
fabrics meant for rituals and daily use.
This embroidery is noted for
its originality and elegance. The
use of mirrors, vibrant colours,
shells and beads create an
ensemble that is kaleidoscopic
and reflects a sense of gay
abandon that is so
characteristic of the Banjaras.


Their clothes are bright,
colourful, and heavily decorated
with elaborate mirror and
beadwork. They also make
extensive use of shells, ivory
beads, and colorful threads.
Sample showing BANJARA Embroidery
STITCHES USED IN BANJARA EMBROIDERY

A variety of stitches are used in Banjara
embroidery along with cowrie shells and mirrors.

VELE: Chain stitch

DORNAAKI: Running stitch

MAALI KANTH: The Herringbone stitch.

BAKHIYA: Back stitch

KHILAD: Buttonhole stitch.

Some other stitches used in banjara embroidery
are ALLI,CHUKKALER MUGGU,KALIYA,NAKRA,
GADDAR,.etc.


MATERIAL USED

The embellishments are used with colorful
threads are mirrors,cowrie shells.

PRODUCTION CLUSTERS

Rangareddi district:
Hyderabad
Yellama Tanda
Ibrahimpatnam town:
Sanjeevreddy Nagar Shankar Nandinagar

TOOLS

Needle and thread
Sewing machine

MOTIFS OF BANJARA EMBROIDERY
CHARACTERSTICS OF BANJARA EMBROIDERY


EXTENSIVENESS OF EMBROIDERY:
Is what directly impacts the beauty and
price of banjrara wall hanging, which are
made using patches of vintage textiles.

MIRROR WORK:
Embedded mirror work in various sizes with
beads, old coins, cowrie shells etc.

PATTERN ARRANGEMENT:
Banjara embroidery wall hangings usually have a
more ordered placement of textile patches
compared to Indian sari beaded wall hangings.

Batuaa done in BANJARA
Embroidery
PRODUCTS

Traditional Products:

Batwa-purses
Khalchi-pouches
Phetia-skirt
Kanchali-blouse

Contemporary Products:

Appliqued toran hanging for doorways
Bags and purses
Toran made up of Banjara embroidery
Pg 36, Ethnic embroidery in india
BIBLIOGRAPHY

BOOKS

Costumes , Textiles and Jewellery of India by Vandana
Bhandari

Textile art of India

Handmade in India

Indian Textiles by John Gillow and Nicholas Barnard

Ethnic embroidery of India by Usha Shrikant



THANK YOU
BY
ARPITA MAHANTI
GURPREET
PRATIBHA
SONALI KATOCH

TEXTILE DESIGN
SEMESTER-III