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MAKE UP

Understanding the different types of makeup products






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MAKE UP
Contra-indications
Fever
Contagious or infectious disease
Any known allergies Eczema
Inflammation
Sunburn
Hypersensitive skin
Botox
Dermal fillers (1 week following
treatment)











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CONCEALER


A G O O D C O N C E A L E R WI L L H I D E A S P O T O R B L E MI S H , I T
I S U S E D B E F O R E F O U N D AT I O N


Green help to light the dark skin, especially cover expansion of
blood vessels
Lilac can help dim complexion
White helps to correct unevenness on uneven skin tone especially
pigmentation
Orange shade for darker areas e.g. dark circles
Yellow for purple patches

















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APPLYING CONCEALER

Mix different colors together to obtain the required color
Use a wedge-shaped sponges for large areas like patches under the eyes
Cotton buds for small blemishes
Hygiene : scrape a little off with a spatula or orange stick before application






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FOUNDATION

To even out the skins texture
A consistent base to moisturiser
Provide a matt finish on oily skin
Cover minor blemishes
Brighten or enhance the foundation









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TYPES OF FOUNDATION
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LIQUID FOUNDATION
A thin film of liquid foundation is best for 'natural look' makeup and is most
commonly used by women for daily purposes. It is easy to apply and is not
easily visible. It comes in oil-based formulas for people with dry to normal
skin and water-based formulas for people with oily skin.

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MOUSSE FOUNDATION


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The mousse foundation innovative lightweight formula gives you a
'barely there' feel whilst delivering medium coverage and a tone-
perfecting matte finish. The mousse glides on smoothly and blends
easily with buildable, long lasting coverage that covers imperfections
for a professional, flawless finish.
Derma Floral Beauty Academy
MINERAL FOUNDATION
Mineral foundation powders are the newest trend in make up. Here are healthy skin benefits to using this
product,
along with application tips and techniques. The beauty of mineral foundation powder can be used on all skin hues
and
skin types. It is made of high pigment minerals that have been finely crushed. They are available in loose dusting
powders,
pressed powders and crme powders.
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STICK FOUNDATION
The thick, creamy texture of this stick foundation makes the complexion
perfectly even and camouflages small imperfections. Smooth and with an
excellent coverage, it is recommended for dry and problem skins.
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SPRAY FOUNDATION


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In the pro category, spray on makeup provides a beautiful finish. It makes the face look flawless and picture-perfect. However, spray
foundation makeup is not like heavy foundations of the past. Its light consistency gives an all-natural appearance. Its ability to cover
imperfections. Even though it is light and natural, it provides excellent coverage for fine lines and wrinkles, dark spots, and blemishes.
Women who have less than perfect skin love how it performs. The airy, light touch means you will feel as if you are not wearing a
foundation at all.
Derma Floral Beauty Academy
PRESSED POWDER FOUNDATION
Face powder is one of the most widely-used cosmetics that enhances the appearance of the
skin, conceals blemishes and creates a smooth, flawless complexion. Pressed powder can
be used alone or over liquid foundation. It usually is sold in round compacts and comes with
a cotton application pad. Wearing pressed powder reduces shine and is a great option for
individuals with oily skin



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MAKE UP
FOUNDATION
Applying Foundation
1. Always decant enough foundation onto a palette, using clean
spatula not fingers


2. Use a damp sponge, make-up wedges or flat brushes or
fingers to blend foundation

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MAKE UP
FOUNDATION
3. Work quickly and lightly from the centre to the hairline, below the jaw line
to the neck

4. Carefully blend the foundation into the creases around the nose and eyes

5. Cover the eyelids and lips as a base for long lasting eye shads and lip stock

6. The final look should be as natural and unobtrusive as possible


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MAKE UP FACE
POWDER Face Powder
Used primarily to fix foundation

A suitable base for powder blushers and shaders
Remove shines
Give skin a matt appearance by reflecting light
Conceal minor blemishes





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MAKE UP FACE
POWDER Face Powder two main forms Loose and Pressed

1. Loose used by professionals

Translucent and light reflecting, with high proportions of kaolin and chalk

Good coverage and sometimes coloured is used


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MAKE UP FACE
POWDER
2. Pressed traditional retail powder

Not fine enough for professional use, contains wax and gum

Good for touching up make up and removing shine during the day




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MAKE UP FACE
POWDER
Applying face powder

1. Ensure clients eyes and mouth are closed

2. Decant the powder on a palette or onto a cotton wool pad

3. Apply using cotton-wool pad
or powder brush, tapping
off excess first



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MAKE UP FACE
POWDER
4. Press on the foundation, covering all areas including eyelids and mouth


5. Brush off excess powder


6. Use a downward motion to ensure powder does not stick on facial hairs, in eyelashes or brows


Hygiene : Never put a used cotton-wool pad back into
the powder container

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MAKE UP COLOURED POWDER

Coloured powder can appear unnatural and may change colour
when in contact with oils

Silver or gold particles are added to give extra shine for evening wear and bronze for light golden book

Pearly colour can be reflected in photographs

Translucent leave a chalky effect on black
skin, brown, bronze or gold are much
preferred



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MAKE UP FACE
CONTOUR

Shaders, highlighters and blushers are known as contour
cosmetics

They are used to accentuate, enhance and minimize features
by emphasizing and contouring the shapes of the face







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MAKE UP FACE
CONTOUR
Shaders

Shaders should be darker than the foundation to be
effective, it should not be so dark to appear unnatural, dark
colours sometimes act as blusher rather than shader


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MAKE UP FACE
CONTOUR
Highlighters

Highlighters should be lighter than foundation colour
to emphasis on the bone structure and to draw attention to eyes
and cheekbones. They also help to hide deep line


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MAKE UP FACE
CONTOUR Different forms of face contour products

Cream
Applied over foundation, before
face powder
Gel
Applied over foundation, never covered with face powder, for a transparent and
more natural look

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MAKE UP FACE
CONTOUR
Sticks
Applied over foundation ;
difficult to blend thoroughly

Powders
Applied after face powder; blend well, smooth finish, more appropriate for
evening, fashion and photographic make-up



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MAKE UP EYE
SHADOW
Eyes are windows of our soul, it is regarded as the most important and
expressive features of the face

Eye makeup is most colourful, not just to match the skin, it also enhance
the
beauty, complement eye colours, often clothes and jewellery



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MAKE UP EYE
SHADOW
Types of eye shadow
o Cream oil based, spread easily but need powder to set and tends to crease, not
recommended for mature client


o Powders creamy powder with oil, pressed, loose or matt, can be pearlised, metallic
or frosted,
less suitable for dry skins
-


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MAKE UP EYE SHADOW

Colours and Effects
Darker browns and reds can
subtly enhance dark eyes

Pastels colours enhance light grey,
green or blue eyes

Very light colours create highlights
when used with darker eye shadow


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MAKE UP EYE
SHADOW
o Water colours cake eye shadows
applied with wet brush; strong
colour, long lasting


o Pencils oil or wax based, easy to apply, can give hard lines or be blended in





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MAKE UP EYE
SHADOW
Bright colours are best for young, fun, fashion looks


Softer greys and mauve are better for a mature, unobtrusive, natural look

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MAKE UP EYE SHADOW

Pink and lilac eye shadow can make eyes look tired and sore, so use with care
and other colours




Dark eye shadow can also be used as eyeliner on fairer skins




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MAKE UP EYE SHADOW

Applying eye shadow
Make sure clients eye are closed and not directly facing a bright light

Hold tissue underneath lower lashes to hold any excess eye shadow and
avoid staining the base make-up

To avoid cross-infection, eye shadow must NEVER be applied directly
from the container

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MAKE UP EYE SHADOW

Use sanitised, disposable brushes or foam-tipped applicator

Light colours highlight and attract

Dark colours detract and create shadow

Apply the colour to one eye and replicate on the other to achieve balance

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MAKE UP EYE SHADOW

Blend with fingers or brushes over middle and outer part of lid towards the
eyebrow arch, leaving no hard line




Keep checking that colour is balanced on both eyes by asking client to open
their eyes at regular stages of the application


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MAKE UP
EYELINER
Eyeliner is used to define the shape of the eye. Harder lines are used for fashionable effect while softer lines
are preferable for natural looks and more mature clients


Choose eye liner colours to

Match the mascara
Match the eye colour
Match or accentuate the eye shadow


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MAKE UP EYELINER
Different forms of eyeliners

Liquid gum or oil based in water,
applied with a soft brush or
tipped applicator
-

Cakes or block of water colour powder be wetted or applied with a damp
brush, water content varied to create a harder or softer line
-


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MAKE UP EYELINER
Crayon or pencil wax or oil stick, be blended like eye shadow or sharpened to
produce a
hard line
-

Kohl (kajal) soft, black, wax pencil, applied to inner rims of the eye and/or the
eyelid
Kohl (kajal)
Note : it is advisable not to use eyeliner below the
eyes if the skin is crepey


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MAKE UP EYELINER
Use sanitisied or disposable brushes or
sharpened pencils

Close the eyes when applying eyeliner to
upper lids

Look away from the applicator when applying it to the lower lids

Keep your hand steady, rest it gently on
a tissue on your clients face if necessary

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MAKE UP EYELINER
Do not press down on the eye

Do not lean on the client

Lift the skin below the brow and to place the line as close to the lashes as possible
(unless you are drawing above the lash line to give an enlarging effect)

(


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MAKE UP
EYELINER
Apply eyeliner from the centre to the outer edge

Soften the line with a sponge or
cotton bud if preferred

Check that thickness and shaper are balanced on both eyes

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MAKE UP MASCARA
Mascara is used to
Thicken
colour
lengthen eye lashes to enhance the shape and colour of the eyes



Ideally, it should be long lasting, run
proof, hypoallergenic and easy to apply



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MAKE UP MASCARA

Types of Mascara
Block/cake-pigmented and wax based, it is
applied with a flat, wet brush and is less
common
/

Cream easy to apply and remove, not run proof or waterproof, rarely used in salons

Liquid resin based with pigments in colour (for alcohol and water) with oil to
soften; use with a disposable brush, easy to remove
()
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MAKE UP MASCARA
Do not use alcohol-based mascara or mascara with filaments on clients
who use contact lenses



Application
Use disposable spiral brushes or a disinfected flat brush (for block
mascara)

()
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MAKE UP MASCARA
Application
Lift the eyelids from below the brow to
prevent mascara marking eye make-up

Apply first downwards over the upper lashes, then upwards underneath the lashes to
make sure every part is covered

Build up the mascara in fine layers, allowing an
interval for each to dry to prevent clogging


Use a lash or brow comb to separate lashes,
if necessary

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MAKE UP BLUSHER
Blusher colours are used to


o Balance the eye and lip make up

o Give the face a healthy glow

o Even out skin tones



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MAKE UP BLUSHER

Generally use
Pastel colours to soften features

Bright colours to accentuate features and
add warmth

Dark colours to recede features

Matt colours for daytime and lustrous
colours for evening wear


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MAKE UP BLUSHER

Applying blushers
Use very soft, round-ended brushes and blend in powders.

Tap off any excess from the brush before applying

Blend blushers upwards and outwards

Do not apply blusher too near the eyes or nose

Start the blusher on the cheekbones below the centre line of the eye

Do not drop below the level of the corner of the nose, otherwise the facial contours will appear to be
dragged downward

Use strong contouring for evening, photographic and fashion wear

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MAKE UP LIP LINER
Lip liners are wax-based pencils used to contour lips to the desired shape and to
stop lipstick bleeding into other make-up and into the lines around the mouth


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MAKE UP LIP LINER

Applying lip liner
Apply after foundation, powder, eye make-up, blusher, shader or highlighter
BUT before lipstick



Always sharpen the pencil to obtain a clean surface and fine line

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MAKE UP LIP LINER

Lipsticks are designed to

Add balance and colour

Enhance lips

Express style or personality

To give a finished look to smart presentation

To protect lips from sun, cold and wind

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MAKE UP LIP LINER

Type of lipsticks
Conventional sticks wax based with
softeners, such as lanolin, mineral
oils or petroleum jelly


Give excellent coverage

Can be pearlised, matte, gloss and with lip balm or sun-block protection

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MAKE UP LIP LINER

Tubes
for glossy or creamy finish


Pots
add sheers (transparent) colour to lips, giving a more natural look


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MAKE UP LIP LINER

Lipstick colours should balance with
make-up and clothing colours

Strong colours balance well with muted eye
make-up and draw attention to lip

Deeper colours are needed to redefine new lip
shapes, especially around the edges of the new line

Pale, grossy or pearlised lipsticks giver a fuller effect
to lips, while deeper colours reduce the appearance of fullness



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MAKE UP LIP LINER

Applying lipstick
o To avoid cross-infection, scrape required amount onto palette and use a
disposable lip brush to apply



o Fill in lipstick after foundation and lip liner

o Use a tissue to blot and fix the first application of lipstick

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MAKE UP LIP GLOSS
Lip gloss is a clear or coloured gel, available in a pot or stick form

1. Can be applied on its own

2. Over lipstick to give a gloss effect

3. Illusion of fuller lip

4. Used for glamour or evening wear

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MAKE UP ORDER
OF APPLI CATI ON


1. Pre-base
2. Corrective cream
3. Foundation
4. Concealer
5. Powder
6. Shader
7. Highlighter
8. Eyeshadow
9. Eyeliner
10. Mascara
11. Blusher
12. Lip liner
13. Lipstick
14. Lip gloss (where appropriate)


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MAKE UP TIME
LIMITS
Acceptable time limit to the industry for a cleanse and day
make-up is up to 30 minutes
30

Wedding or evening make-up could take up to an hour

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MAKE UP HYGIENE
Sterilisation and sanitisation of make-up tools

Always use cleaned and sterilised brushes and sponges

Soak sponges in sterilising solution
for at least an hour and rinse
thoroughly in clean water

Clean brushes throughly in hot, soapy water, wipe with alcohol or sanitiser before
drying


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MAKE UP HYGIENE
Sterilisation and sanitisation of make-up tools

Put them in sanitising unit until next use

Scrub and disinfect make-up palettes between use

Use disposable applicators and/or palettes

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MAKE UP BEFORE &
AFTER

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