MOISTURIZERS

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BASIC ANATOMY
OF SKIN
Skin has 3 layers:
1. Epidermis: Consists of multiple layers i:e; Fat layer,
Stratum Corneum, horny layer and basal layer. Water
content in this layer is 15%.
2. Dermis: Consists of blood vessels, nerves, and hair
shafts, as well as sweat and sebaceous glands. A small
coating of sebum will protect the skin effectively. An
excess of sebum leads to overly oily skin and can cause
acne. Water content in this layer is 80%
3. Hypodermis: contains a layer of fat, blood vessels and
nerves.
Moisturizers mostly target epidermis layer of skin
http://illumin.usc.edu/174/the-chemistry-behind-moisturizers/

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WHAT ARE
MOISTURIZERS

Water is necessary for the skin to maintain its flexibility; when skin is overly dry, it loses its ability to
stretch, causing it to crack and peel more easily.
Moisturizers are the substances that help to increase the hydration of the skin and prevent loss of
hydration to restore epidermal function.
They may, thus, slow evaporation of the skins

Repairing the
skin barrier

moisture, thereby maintaining hydration and

improving the appearance and tactile properties of dry

Reducing
transepidermal
water loss (TEWL)

Moisturization

Restoring the
lipids water
barrier function

Increasing
water content

and aging skin.

Newer products claim to have other properties such

as anti-aging, skin-firming and sun-protectant
effects.
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HOW SKIN DRYING

OCCURS
Water originates in the deeper epidermal layers and moves upward to hydrate cells in the stratum corneum (SC),
eventually being lost to evaporation.
The SC architecture is the most important factor in water flux and retention in the skin, and in overall
level of moisturization:
Corneocytes are the physical barrier of the SC and, when hydrated, contribute to elasticity

Corneocytes

Lipid bilayer

The lipid bilayers of the SC function as a moisture barrier

Natural
Moisturizing
Factor (NMF)

NMF is found within corneocytes and is a mix of hygroscopic molecules that, by helping maintain hydration in
the corneocyte, keep the SC hydrated.
Corneodesmosomes are degraded by water-dependent hydrolytic agents. When there is low moisture in the SC,
these enzymes do not work efficiently. Corneocytes accumulate on the skin surface producing the signs of dry
skin, e.g., when the moisture content is less than 10%, and when here is loss of continuity of the SC.

Desquamati
on of cells

Faster peeling causes skin cells to shed more rapidly thereby causing increase in cell production in basal layer. These cells
that grow are not fully mature thus no protection against water loss from epidermis.
http://illumin.usc.edu/174/the-chemistry-behind-moisturizers/

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Natural Moisturizing
Factor (NMF)
Natural moisturizing factor (NMF) is a collection of water-soluble compounds that are only found
in the stratum corneum.
These compounds compose approximately 20-30% of the dry weight of the corneocyte.
Constituent

Percentage

Amino acids

40

Pyridine carboxylic acids

12

Lactate

12

Urea

Na, Ca, Mg, K, phosphate, chloride

18.5

Ammonia, Uric acid, glucosamine,

1.5

Rest unidentified

They help to support the intercellular area of the skin by keeping it intact.
This support helps prevent surface irritation from penetrating deeper into the skin, helps keep bacteria
out, and aids the skins immune/healing system.
http://practicaldermatology.com/2012/07/understanding-the-role-of-natural-moisturizingfactor-in-skin-hydration

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IDEAL
MOISTURIZER
Effective: Hydrates the SC, reduces and prevents TEWL
An emollient: Makes skin smooth and supple and reduces TEWL
An aid in restoring the lipid barrier, i.e., duplicating and enhancing the skins natural
moisture retention mechanisms
Cosmetically elegant and acceptable
Moisturizing to sensitive skin, i.e., hypo-allergenic,

non sensitizing,

fragrance

free,

Noncomedogenic
Affordable
Long-lasting
Absorbed

rapidly

providing

immediate hydration.

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CLASSIFICATION OF
MOISTURIZERS

Occlusives

Humectants

Moisturizers

Emollients

Proteins

http://www.makingcosmetics.com/articles/13-humectants-moisturizingagents-in-cosmetics.pdf

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These are the chemicals that attract water.

HUMECTA
NTS

They are able to attract water from two sources: they enhance water absorption from the dermis
into the epidermis, and in humid conditions they also help the SC to absorb water from the external
environment.
Many humectants also have emollient properties.
Most of the humectants have something in common: hydroxyl groups.
Examples: Glycerin, Hyaluronic acid, Sodium PCA, Urea, Honey, Sorbitol and Lactic acid.

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Glycerin

HUMECTA
NTS

Glycerin (FDA IIG Limit for topical gels: 20%) is the most popular of all humectants used in dermal
products. It is endogeneous humectant (part of NMF).
Glycerol hastens the maturity of corneocytes through the activation of residual transglutaminase
activity in the SC.
It facilitates the digestion of desmosomes and subsequently enhancing desquamation, thus reducing
scaling associated with xerosis. (Reduced activity of the corneodesmosome-degrading enzymes in dry skin
results in retention of corneocytes on the skin surface and formation of scales.)
When used at concentrations above 5% it can leave the skin with a sticky, unpleasant feel.
Penetration
enhancing
effect

Wound
healing

Antimicrobial

UV protectant

Fluhr JW et al. Brit J

Dermatol.2008:59,23-34

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Propylene Glycol

HUMECTA
NTS

It is GRAS listed. Propylene glycol is used as a humectant in topicals (~15% concentration), 30-40% as
vehicle. If used above 60-75%, it denatures and solubilizes proteins and its keratolytic.
Propylene glycol is a multifunctional excipient in topical formulations, having humectant, solvent, and
antimicrobial. It is shown to diminish barrier function and functions as a penetration enhancer.
FDA IIG Limit for topical gets: 98.08%
Trend is towards more PG free products due to allergic contact dermatitis.

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Hexylene Glycol

HUMECTA
NTS

It is often used in emulsions designed for facial applications due to their non-sticky skin feel.
When employed in emulsions, they can reduce streaking which is often seen in this product type. Their
relatively high cost has limited their usage.
HG is less irritating that PG under occlusion, but still delayed contact allergic reactions may occur.
Creates thinner, more spreadable product.
FDA IIG Limit for topical gels: 2%

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HUMECTA
NTS
Alpha- hydroxy acids:
They are effective agents for the treatment of dry and scaly skin. These products also act as promoter
of lipid synthesis.
Lactic acid, particularly the L-isomer, stimulates ceramide biosynthesis leading to higher SC
ceramide levels that result in a superior lipid barrier and more effective resistance against xerosis.
At concentrations over 5% LA inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme that initiates the melanin production
process.
Stimulate biosynthesis of glycosamineglycans (GAGs), thus plumping skin via hydration.
Lactic acid in high concentrations (>10%) helps to improve scarring and discoloration associated with
old acne.

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HUMECTA
NTS
Hyaluronic acid
It is found in the reticular layer of the skin or the deepest layer of the dermis.
The reticular layer contains collagen and elastin, and hyaluronic acid is found between these fibers
helping to give your skin its volume and snap.
As we age the amount of hyaluronic acid in our skin diminishes thus skin looks dull.
It is a very powerful humectant in that it can attract and hold 1,000 times its weight in water. However it
is not FDA approved for pharmaceuticals

Sorbitol
This is an ingredient that can be used to replace Glycerin. It is a great hydrating
agent, that has many of the same benefits as glycerin.
FDA IIG Limit for topical gels : 67.52%
http://www.healthydirections.com/hyaluronic-acid-miracle-moistur
izer/#ixzz33p8htC11

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Sodium PCA

HUMECTA
NTS

Constituent of NMF.
It can attract and hold 250 times its weight in water and act as powerful humectant.
It is typically used in concentrations of 2% or greater.
Not FDA approved.

Urea
Urea is a humectant in lower concentrations (10%), but in higher concentrations (20-30%),it is mildly
keratolytic by disrupting hydrogen bonds or epidermal proteins.
It also promotes water upatke in SC due to its high water binding capaities.
It has also shown to reduce TEWL reduce SLS-induced skin irritation.
Not FDA approved.

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OCCLUSIV
ES
These are substances that physically block transepidermal water loss in the stratum corneum.
Occlusive's reduce TEWL by creating a hydrophobic barrier over the skin and contributing to the
matrix between corneocytes. They lock in the moisture attracted by the humectants and keep it from
evaporating off the skin.
They are also believed to penetrate lipid bilayer of SC.
Their main limitations include odor, potential allergenicity, and the greasy feel associated with most
occlusive's.

Examples: Petroleum Jelly, Lanolin, Mineral oil, Silicones (dimethicone), Squalene, zinc oxide. Silicones
(dimethicone and cyclomethicone), plant oils, squalane, shea butter and zinc oxide etc are skin friendly.

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OCCLUSIV
ES
Petroleum jelly
Petrolatum is widely used as a classic moisturizer.
If it is used in a minimum concentration of 5%, reduces TEWL by more than 98%.
It not only blocks water loss, but the lipids also fill in spaces between the skin cells on the upper layer of the
epidermis.
Petrolatum can leave a heavy feel so they are often combined with other ingredients, like emollients, to
improve consumer appeal.
It is non-comedogenic.
FDA IIG Limit: 16.43%

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OCCLUSIV
ES
Lanolin
It holds up to 400 times its weight in water, so it's a fantastic moisture reservoir for skin.
Lanolin works double-duty; it both moisturizes skin from the outside, and helps the skin to moisturize itself
from within.
It penetrates deeper into the skin than normal moisturizers.
It is biocompatible.
FDA IIG Limit: 2%

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OCCLUSIV
ES
Mineral oil
Mineral oil, also known as soft paraffin, is the liquid form of petrolatum.
Mineral oil reduces TEWL (transepidermal water loss) by 40%, is equally as occlusive as coconut oil and
more occlusive than linoleic acid, yet it does not induce acne.
Mineral oil and petrolatum provide inhibition of excessive inflammatory activity.
FDA IIG Limit: 20%

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OCCLUSIV
ES
Silicones
Most common substance used in oil free formulations.
Dimethicone and cycolmethicone are preferred choice.
They are preferred in sensitive skin and acne.
They spread easily on the skin, and the lubrication they provide isn't greasy or tacky.
Because of their low vapor pressure, they evaporate easily from skin at room temperature, and therefore
aren't prone to build-up or an oily residue.
FDA IIG limit (13% for cream), Dimethicone/cyclomethicone copolyol (FDA IIG Limit: 2.3% for cream)
They give emolliency to the product.
The are non comedogenic.

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EMOLLIEN
TS

Emollients smooth skin by filling spaces between skin flakes with droplets of oil, and are not usually
occlusive unless applied heavily.
When combined with an emulsifier, they may help hold oil and water in the stratum corneum.
Unlike humectants, emollients bring moisture to your skin via the composition of the product itself.
Emollients can be oil based or water based:
Oil-based emollients are greasier to the touch, are more easily seen on the face after application and stick
around longer than water-based emollients.
Water-based emollients are easier to apply and creates less visible on the face.
Some emollients can be exfoliative (containing salicylic acid) and may have anti-inflammatory, antipruritic
effects when combined with other excipients such as lauromacrogols. Some also have physiologic lipids
such as ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids that are naturally found in the stratum corneum hence they
help to replenish and restore the intercellular lipid matrix.
Examples of emollients include Mineral oil, lanolin, fatty acids, cholesterol, squalene, and structural lipids.
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EMOLLIEN
TS
Fatty acids
Fatty acids and fatty alcohols exert their benefits through effects on the skin barrier, partially through
improved repair, and on permeability.
Examples include stearic acid (IIG limit for creams: 22.6%) and oleic acid (IIG limit: 2.5% in gel, 25% in
cream)
Essential fatty acids (i.e., linoleic and alpha-linoleic acids) influence skin physiology and pathology via
their effects on skin barrier functions, eicosanoid production, membrane fluidity, and cell signalling.
However linoleic acid is not approved for topical use in pharmaceuticals.

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EMOLLIEN
TS
Ceramides
Structural lipids as ceramides which are located between skin cells, are also felt to play a considerable role
in the water-holding potential of the stratum corneum.
Ceramide is a major skin cell component and plays a major role in generating multilamellae architecture.
Natural ceramides themselves are at present too expensive to make commercially available. However,
synthetic ceramides (e.g. lacto-ceramide encapsulated in liposomes) are now available and have been
clinically shown to be effective in preventing and improving dry skin.

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PROTEINS
Proteins, like emollients, shrink on the skin leaving a film that softens the skin, stretches out some of the
fine wrinkles, and avoids water loss.
Elastin is a fiber in the body that helps maintain proper elasticity of the skin.
Collagen (IIG Limit: 0.024% in gel ) is a protein present beneath the skin, and is responsible for holding
the skin tightly without allowing it to sag. As the production of collagen decreases and the elastin starts
getting degraded, skin droops and lines become visible.
A good skin firming cream will contain ingredients like keratin, which stimulates the production of
collagen and elastin.
Keratin is produced by cells called keratinocytes, and just as collagen or elastin, this protein helps keep the
skin firm and forms a protective layer to retain healthy skin. This barrier helps keep out pathogens and helps
minimize serious damage from other environmental factors.
Keratin treatment is thought to work by strengthening the skin by boosting keratin levels, as well as by
stimulating the production of collagen within the skin.
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NON- COMEDOGENIC
MOISTURIZERS
An oil-free, noncomedogenic moisturizer is the choice for people with acne and oily skin.
Noncomedogenic moisturizers dont clog pores and are less likely to cause acne breakouts than regular
moisturizers.
Noncomedogenic moisturizers have a lighter feel than regular moisturizers, and many are oil-free, so
they won't leave additional oil on your skin.
Acne prone people must check for non-comedogenic ingredients in products such as moisturizers,
cleansers, shampoo, makeup and sunscreen..

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PROTECTIVE MOISTURIZERS
Generally, all moisturizers work to protect your skin: They add moisture to the stratum corneum, and they
form a thin barrier designed to retain that moisture.
There are some moisturizers that are more effective at creating that protective barrier.
Protective moisturizers often contain occlusive emollients, antioxidants and sunscreens.
Occlusive emollients are ingredients that add a layer of oil to the top of the stratum corneum to prevent
water loss and protect skin.
Antioxidants fight free radicals, the unstable molecules that occur from sun exposure and pollution that can
destroy skin's collagen.
Sunscreen: Protective moisturizers typically contain sunscreen with a sun protection factor of at least 15 to
protect skin from the sun's UV ray. These rays can cause sunburn, wrinkles and skin cancer.

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SPECIALIZED
MOISTURIZER
One of the most common specialized moisturizers is anti-aging cream.
These creams typically contain collagen and elastin, which are proteins that help keep your skin toned
and flexible .
While these products may temporarily plump up wrinkles, topical creams can't replace the collagen and
elastin from your skin's deeper layers.
Other ingredients designed to help smooth out wrinkles include alpha-hydroxy acids, retinoids, vitamin
C, copper peptides and coenzyme Q10.
Chemical

Function

Alfa hydroxy
acids

Reduces appearance of fine lines, keratolyics

Retinoids

Reduce wrinkles and repair sun damage

Vitamin C

Increase collagen production and protect skin from UV

ray

Copper peptides

Stimulate collagen production

Coenzyme Q10

Reduces fine lines and provides protection from sun

damage
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MOISTURIZER AND
SKIN TYPE
Type of skin

Type of moisturizers

Formulation components

Normal skin

Water-based moisturizer that has a light,

non-greasy feel

Lightweight oils, such as cetyl

alcohol, or silicone-derived
ingredients, such as cyclomethicone.

Dry skin

Heavier, oil-based moisturizer. Oils for

very dry and cracked skin

Moisturizers containing Urea and

Propylene Glycol

Oily skin

An oil-free, water-based product with noncomedogenic property

Use a moisturizer that doesn't contain

Sensitive skin potential allergens, such as fragrances or
dyes
Mature skin

Petrolatum as the base, along with

lactic acid or alpha hydroxy acids

An oil-based moisturizer

http://cgi.cnn.com/HEALTH/library/SN/00042.html

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FORMULATION
CHARACTERISTICS
Generally moisturizer contain a combination of emollients, occlusives, and humectants.
Combining occlusive's and humectants enhances the water-holding capacity of the skin e.g; When glycerol, a
humectant, is combined with occlusive agents, there is a synergistic alleviation of dry skin.
The predominant form of moisturizer is the emulsion form. The majority are lotions (oil-in-water emulsions)
or creams (water-in-oil emulsions).
Dermatologists generally recommend moisturizers with an industry adjustment of the oil-water ratio.
Occlusive's and emollients provides the basis of formulations for different skin types (oily, normal, dry
complexions) and sites of application.
Moisturisers in therapeutics topical drugs are non-comedogenic, devoid of irritant ingredients, and
compatible with many therapeutic regimens.
Silicone derivatives in particular are targeted for consumers with oily skin. Other
ingredients are added to reduce the appearance of excess shine such as oil-absorbent
compounds (e.g., kaolin, talc).
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ADVERSE EFFECTS OF
MOISTURIZERS
Adverse Side Effects

Moisturizer Components

Occlusive Folliculitis

Petrolatum; Mineral oil

Sweat Retention

Miliara rubra, i.e., petrolatum and lanolin

Irritation

Urea; Lactic acid; Propylene glycol; Solvents

Fragrances; Preservatives, i.e, parabens,

Allergic Contact
Dermatitis

formaldehyde, Quaternium 15 and Imidazolidinyl

urea; Lanolin; Additives, i.e., vitamin E and aloe
vera

Photo Contact
Dermatitis

Fragrances; UV filters

Contact Urticaria

Preservatives, i.e., sorbic acid; Fragrances, i.e.,

Balsam of Peru

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The End

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