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DENIM TROUSER

S E W N P R O D U C T S M A C H I N E RY A N D
EQUIPMENTS
7TH DECEMBER,2012

P R E S E N T E D BY:

S U P R I YA N A N D A
S H A L I N I YA D AV
R A S H I S R I VA S TAVA
YA S H A S V I S H A I L LY

GARMENT PARTS

STITCHES USED
CLASS 300

SINGLE NEEDLE LOCKSTITCH , 301


BACK POCKET HEM
BACK POCKET (INNER AND OUTER)
POCKET MOUTH + POCKET CLOTH
RIGHT FLY + ZIPPER
WASH LABEL
LEFT FLY + ZIPPER
BELT LOOP
BOTTOM HEM
WATCH POCKET

CLASS 300

DOUBLE NEEDLE LOCKSTITCH-302


POCKET BAG BOUND SEAM
J STITCH ON RIGHT FLY
YOKE
SEAT SEAM

SINGLE NEEDLE ZIG ZAG LOCKSTITCH, 304


FRONT FLY BAR TACK
BELT LOOPS
WATCH POCKET
BACK POCKET

CLASS 100

SINGLE NEEDLE CHAIN STITCH, 101


WAIST BAND
POCKET BAG BOUND SEAM

CLASS 500

SINGLE NEEDLE/ THREE


THREAD OVEREDGE STITCH, 504
BACK POCKET
LEFT FLY
RIGHT FLY

CLASS 800

STITCH NO. 803


(301+ 504 COMBNATION)
IN SEAM

CAD SECTION

The base pattern is digitized using digital


paper and digipen .

The digipen is then connected to PC and then


all patterns are copied.

All the required changes are made and


gradation to the pattern is made.

Fabric shrinkage is added to the pattern and


size ratio as per the cut plan.

Auto markers
adjustment.

Length of the fabric is set as per markers.

are

made

using

time

LAYERING ,CUTTING AND NUMBERING


The layering is done manually or

using automatic spreader.


The

spreader is of two types:


STATIONARY
SPREADER
AND
TRAVELLING EXPANDABLE CLOTH
SPREADER.
Cutting is the first part of the
stitching operation. It is usually done
using round knife and mode EC-45 is
suited for denim fabric.
The various cut parts are segregated
on the basis of their size and style.
They are classified as BATCH NO. ,
SIZE, PIECES NO. , SERIAL NO. , BALE
NO. , SHADE, STYLE NO. AND LOT NO.

SEQUENCE OF OPERATIONS
SCALLOP
The embroidery and applique work done on back pockets and watch
pockets .

FRONT SECTION
POCKET HEMMING

Raw edges visible on the top side of the pocket is avoided by folding
the edges using the hemming folder.
CREASING

The sides of the pocket shall be folded and ironed for easy attachment
of the pocket over the panel.

FACING ATTACH

The pocket bag and the pocket mouth shall de joined using multiple
over edge chain stitch to avoid bulk and give smooth finish.
WATCH POCKET ATTACH

The watch pocket is attached after positioning on the pocket mouth.


Reverse stitch is made at right corner to enable it to withstand extra
stress.
POCKET BAG CLOSING

a raw stitch is made at the bottom of the pocket bag to close the bag.
Piece is turned inside out and another stitch is made to avoid the
feeling of the raw edges on the inside.
RIGHT PANEL,TOP FLY AND DOWN FLY SERGE

Overclocking is done at the edges for neatening edges.

HANG POCKET ATTACH

The side pocket bag is positioned and attached to the panel at the pocket side.
HANG POCKET TOP STITCH

The sides of the pocket shall be attached firmly with the panel using double needle
lockstitch.
STAY NOTCH

The side pockets are positioned by means of lockstitch at notches made at pocket
mouth.
LEFT FLY ATTACH

Fly is attached to the left panel at fly area by means of French folder.
ZIPPER ATTACH
Zipper is attached on the fly, the size of the zipper varies with the size of the jeans.

FRONT FLY

J shaped stitch is made at the other end of the fly to avoid dangling
effect.
RIGHT FLY ATTACH

The front right panel and left panel are joined. The fly is also used to
cover the bottom part of the zipper.
CROTCH JOIN

The crotch area of both the panels is joined by means of double needle
lockstitch.
FLY BARTACK

It is a reinforcement stitch done to withstand stress produced while


opening zipper.

BACK SECTION
RISER STITCH

The back panel is attached to the yoke by means of


lockstitch.

double needle

BACK POCKET ATTACH

The back pocket positioning is marked by a helper and then attached on


the back panel by giving a outer stitch. The inner stitch varies as it may be
parallel to the other stitch.
SEAT SEAM

This stitch is a lap felled seam and is given by feed-of-the arm machine.
Here the back left and the right left panels are joined by a double needle
lockstitch machine.

BACK POCKET BARTACK

It is a reinforcing stitch.it is done in all top corners of back pocket.

ASSEMBLY SECTION
INSEAM

the front and the back parts are joined. It is a lap felled seam. It is a
special machine operation.
SIDE SEAM

The sides of the panel are joined. It is a multi thread over edge chain
stitch (3-thread over lock). The chain stitch is used to withstand the
flexibilty during usage.

CORD STITCH

The side seam joints are pressed over the panel to give movement of the
piece into the folder. It gives additional strength at the sides. The over lock
stitch is secured at the top.
WAIST BAND ATTACH

a band is attached to the waist. It is bound seam done with the help of
waist band folder.
WAIST BAND FINISH

The ends of the bands are finished to give perfect seam. The lockstitch
made secures the stitch of the waistband.
BOTTOM HEM

The bottom edges are neatened by hemming. It is done in a specialized


machine using a down turn hemmer.

LOOP MAKING

Done with the help of loop making folder. Non woven fusible material is
inserted as fusing material.
LOOP ATTACHING

Done with a bar tacking machine. The loops are attached at identified
positions. Loop length is maintained using a T guide.

FINISHING
LOOP CUTTING

The raw edges visible at the bottom of the loops are trimmed to give better
finish.
TRIMMING

The uncut threads and loose threads remained after washing are removed
using trimmers.
LABEL ATTACH

The patches are at positions identified at the back of the jeans.


BUTTONING

Buttons are attached with reference to keyhole by pneumatic operation.


RIVETING

Rivets are attached at the pockets . Pressure required is 6kg / sq.cm

MACHINES AND EQUIPMENTS


ULTRA

HIGH SPEED SINGLE


NEEDLE ,3THREAD,ULTRA HIGH
SPEED
OVERLOCK
SEWING
MACHINE WITH A SERGING
RULER

-Generally BROTHER EF4-V41-06-5


-With SERGING RULER
-stitch length:1.4-5.9 MM
-stitch width:5 MM
-maximum stitching speed: 8,500
RPM
-used at SERGING SIDE POCKET
FACING,SERGING LEFT FLY

3-NEEDDLE(TWIN

NEEDLE) FEED OFF THE


ARM DOUBLE NEEDLE
CHAIN STITCHER
-Generally BROTHER B926-7A
-With LAP SEAM FOLDER
-stitch length:2.4-4.2 MM
-stitch width:12MM
-maximum
stitching
speed:3,600 RPM
-used at SIDE ATTACH

ULTRA

HIGH SPEED SAFETY


STITCH SEWING MACHINE

-With TWIN NEEDLE,FIVE THREAD


-stitch length:1.2-5 MM
-stitch width:1.2-5 MM
-maximum stitching speed: 6,500
RPM
-used for SEWING INSIDE

BELT
LOOP
BOTTOM
COVERING STITCHER

-With TWIN NEEDLE,THREE


THREAD
-stitch length:4.2MM
-presser foot: 7MM
-stitch width:4.8-6.4 MM
-maximum stitching speed: 4,00
RPM
-used at BELT LOOP

PROGRAMMABLE ELECTRONIC

PATTERN
SEWER
CYLINDRICAL BED

WITH

-equipped with an inner clamping


device for attaching brand labels
-pneumatically driven with outer
clamp
-stitch length: 1-12.7MM
-maximum stitching speed:2,000
RPM
-stitching area(X-Y):100-60 MM
-used for ATTACHING LABELS
AND SEWING LEATHER LABELS
AT WAISTBAND

AUTOMATIC

BELT

LOOP

SEWER
- The loop attaching process,
from fixed length cutting to
actual sewing on, is fully
automated.
-loop width:10-16 MM
-loop length:40-80 MM
-loop thickness:1-3 MM
-maximum speed:2,000 RPM
-used for attaching BELT LOOPS

AUTOMATIC

POCKET

SETTER
-The new lock stitch and special
zigzag stitch sewing machine
-a label attaching device is also
available as an option
-stitch width:3.5MM
-stitch length:0.1-6 MM
-maximum speed:4,000 RPM
-sewing area(X-Y):220-250 MM
-used for ATTACHING HIP
POCKET TO BACK BODY

ELECTRONIC EYELET BUTTON HOLER

-microprocessor controlled programming


function
-easy adjustment using the operation
panel
-quiet operation and excellent durability
-stitch pitch:0.5-2 MM
-stitch width:1.5-3.2 MM
-taper bar length:3-10 MM
-buttonhole length:38 MM
-maximum sewing speed:2,000 RPM
-sewing pattern program selection, cutting
time selection, dual switch
-used
for
SEWING
EYELET
BUTTONHOLE

LOCKSTITCH BAR TACKER

Bar tacking patterns can also be


sewn on 30mm to 10mm (X-Y)
sewing area, and all pattern
changing
options
can
be
controlled easily from a single
control panel.
stitch length : 0.1 to 10 mm

sewing area : (X-Y) 30 mm to 10


mm
maximum sewing speed : 2500
Rpm
Used for attaching front fly and
belt loop.

PROGRAMMABLE ELECTRONIC
PATTERN SEWER WITH
CYLINDER BED (BAS -326LA)

BAS 326LA is a programmable


electronic pattern sewer with a
cylinder
bed
for
decorative
stitching on jeans hip pockets.
Double capacity large hook
enhances operating efficiency and
accurate feeding At 0.1 mm per
pulse gives a more beautiful finish.
Maximum stitch length : 0.1 mm to
12.7 mm
Maximum speed : 2000 Rpm
sewing area : (X-Y) 180 mm to 100
mm

SINGLE NEEDLE FLAT BED


DOUBLE CHAIN STITCHER

It is used for hemming, hip


pocket, sewing seat seam,
attaching coin/ watch pocket to
pocket mouth.
maximum speed: 5000 Rpm
maximum stitch length : 1.3
mm to 3.6 mm
height of presser foot: 10 mm

SINGLE
NEEDLE
STRAIGHT
LOCK STITCHER WITH THREAD
TRIMMER
They are well equipped with a
trimmer, quick back device and
thread wiper.
Used to stitch side pocket facing to
bag, top stitching side pocket bag
bottom, counter stitching left front
fly.
stitch length : 5 mm
sewing speed : 3500 rpm
height of presser foot : 6 mm or 13
mm

TWIN NEEDLE BOTTOM COVERING


STITCHER
Stitch length : 4.2 mm
height of the presser foot : 7 mm
maximum speed : 4500 Rpm
used in belt loops.
Stitch formed by two needle threads
passing through the material and inter
looping with one looper thread with the
stitch set on the underside of the seam.

Looper thread inter looped between


needle threads ,providing seam coverage
on the bottom seam.

TWIN NEEDLE - NEEDLE FEED


LOCK STITCHER WITH THREAD
TRIMMER

The quick back device is completely


free from any unevenness in material
feed and material puckering.
It is suitable for fancy stitching on
jeans.
maximum stitch length : 5 mm
height of presser foot : 10 mm
maximum speed : 3500 Rpm
it is used for attaching zipper to fly
,top stitching, side pocket mouth, top
stitching left front body, sewing
crotch.

TWIN NEEDLENEEDLE /FEED


SPLIT
NEEDLE
BAR
LOCK
STITCHER
WITH
THREAD
TRIMMER

With outstanding flexible corner


stitching , one touch lever operation
permits single needle stitching.
maximum speed :3000 Rpm
maximum stitch length : 5 mm
height of presser foot : 10 mm
Used for attaching coin /watch pocket
to right side pocket facing.

FOLDERS USED
Folders are the attachments used in sewing machines used generally

used for folding the fabric prior to stitching


The folders used in the stitching process of a denim trouser are

1. ADJUSTABLE EDGE
GUIDE
-used in over lock
-size: 1/8

2. 2-NEEDLE PRESSURE
FOOT
-used in face attach
-needle gauge:1/4

3. PIPING PRESS FOOT


WITH RIGHT GUILD
-used in watch pocket
attach, hang pocket top
stitch, crotch join
-needle gauge:1/4
-piping:1/8

4. 1-NEEDLE PRESSER
FOOT WITH RIGHT GUILD
-used in pocket closing
-size:1/4

5. QUILTING FOOT
-used in Hang pocket attach
-size:3/8

6. T-GUIDE(SEWING GUILD)
-used in stay notch
-size:1/4

7. SWING GUILD
-1-needle compensating
presser foot,
Adjustable edge guide
-used in fly notch
-size:3/8

8. COMMON RIGHT PIPING


PRESSER FOOT
-used in left fly attach and
top stitch
-size:1/8

9. 1-NEEDLE ZIPPER FOOT


-used in zipper attach
-size:3/8

10. ZIPPER FOOT


-used in right fly zip attach
-size:1/8

11. L-GUIDE
-used in bartack
-size:1/2

12. HEMMING FOLDER


-used in back and watch
pocket hem
-size:1/4

13. LAP SEAM FOLDER


-used in riser attach, seat
seam, inseam
-size:1/4

14. LOCAL
FOLDER(ADJUSTABLE EDGE
GUIDE)
-used in side seam
-size:1/8

15. BELT FOLDER


-used in waist band attach
-unfinished width of waist band
3 , finished width 1 ,HH
extra heavy
-size:1

16. BOTTOM HEM FOLDER


-used in bottom hem
-size:1/2

17. LOOP FOLDER


-12mm with cutter edge on
both sides
-used in loop making
-size:1/4

18. CR 3/32
COMPENSATING PRESSER
FOOT
-used in back pocket attach,
back pocket inner stitch
-size: 3/32

BIBLIOGRAPHY
BOOKS REFERRED
The technology of clothing manufacturing by carr & Latham
Apparel manufacturing by Glock & kunj
Garment machinery catalogue
THE BINRAN

WEBSITES REFERRED
http://www.jukiindia.com
http://www.ngaishinghk.com/english/products.html
http://www.schmetz.com

http://mytextilenotes.blogspot.com/2007/12/seam-types.html
http://www.groz-beckert.com/website/gbu/en/downloads_243.html
http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/en/main/products/engineered/
http://www.siruba.com/#
http://www.strima.com/strimaTV/i-118/
http://www.sewingmachine-sales.co.uk/
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/
http://www.amefird.com/estimating_consumption.htm#consumption
http://www.jbsewing.com/content/Industrial%20Sewing/Brother/Single

%20Needle/index.asp