Dyeing

FKM

Wet Processing of Knitted Fabrics

Wet Processing of Woven fabrics

Desizing
In this process, the sizing ingredients are
removed from the grey fabric by dissolving
them. Desizing, with acid or enzymes etc.,
then removes size from the fabric, so that
chemical penetration of the fabric in later
stages is not inhibited.

Scouring
The scouring process is carried out to
remove impurities such as wax, fatty
acids, oils, etc, present in the fabric.
Scouring is carried out in alkaline
conditions (with sodium hydroxide) under
high pressure and temperature (above
100oC).

Bleaching
Bleaching is used to whiten fabrics and
yarns. Different chemicals such as
hypochlorites, hydrogen peroxides, etc,
are used as bleaching agents. The
process conditions during bleaching vary
with the type of agent used. Once
bleaching is complete, the bleaching agent
must be completely removed, either by
thorough washing or through the use of
enzymes.

Mercerizing
Mercerizing increases the tensile strength,
luster and dye uptake of the cotton fabric
or yarn. In this process, the cotton yarn or
fabric is treated with cold sodium
hydroxide solution. This causes swelling of
the fiber, which results in an increase in
the dye intake. Excess sodium hydroxide
is normally recovered for reuse in either
the scouring or other mercerization stages.

Coloring Matters
Dyes
Readymade Dyes

Pigments
Ingrain Dyes

Water Soluble

Azoic

Direct
Acid
Basic
Reactive

Water Insoluble
Vat
Sulphur
Disperse

Mineral Colors
Oxidation Colors

Dye Classes for Cellulosics

Direct Dyes
Reactive Dyes
Vat Dyes
Sulfur Dyes
Azoic Dyes
Pigments

Cellulose Structure

Direct Dyes
Anionic dyes with substantivity for cotton.
Simple dyeing process from an aqueous
bath containing electrolytes.
A separate after treatment after dyeing is
required for most direct dyeing to enhance
fastness to washing.

Structure of Direct Dyes

CI Direct Orange

Mechanism of Direct Dyeing

+ Na+

D-SO3Na

D-SO3-

Cell-OH

Cell O-+ H+

Repulsion between negatively charged dye anions

and negatively charged cellulose surface is
reduced by addition of electrolyte like NaCl or
Na2SO4. Hydrogen bonds and other short range
bonds between cellulose hydroxyl groups and
centers of electro negativity on dye molecules are
responsible for absorption and retention of dye
molecules.

Properties of Direct Dyes

Salts are exhausting agents and in
presence of salts like common salt or
Glaubers salt the dyebath is exhausted to
a greater extent than in absence of salt.
Direct dyes have poor washing fastness
and poor light fastness
After treatments required to improve
fastness

After- treatments for Fastness

Cationic Fixing agents-Compounds react with
sulphonate groups of direct dye
Metal Salt treatments-Treatment with acidified
copper and chromium salts leads to chelating
i.e. metal complex formation with dye molecule.
Cross linking and resin treatments Diazotization and after treatment-Direct dyes
containing primary amine groups can be
diazotized and coupled with developers like
phenols, naphthols etc.

Reactive Dyes
Bright shades
Covalent bond formation with cellulose
Excellent wash fastness

Structure of Reactive Dyes

Chromophore contributing the color
Reactive group enabling the dye to react
with hydroxyl group of the cellulose
Bridge group that connects the
chromophore and the reactive group
Solubilising groups

Dichlorotriazine Dye

Vinylsulphone Dye

Reactive Dyeing Mechanism

Mechanism
Cell O-+ H+

Cell-OH
D-B-X

Cell-O-

D-B-O Cell

[Occurs at alkaline pH]

Reactive Dye

D Chromophore
B Bridge Group
X Reactive group like Dichlorotriazine,
monochlorotriazine, vinyl sulphone etc.

Washing off After treatment

Hydrolysis of dyes causes deposition of
unfixed dye on fibre surface. A number of
washing off cycles are crucial wash off the
loosely deposited dye to enhance wash
fastness properties.

Methods of Application
Pad-batch method
Pad-dry and pad- dry-bake method
Pad-steam method

Vat Dyes
Vat Dyes insoluble in water
Solubilised using sodium hydroxide and
sodium hydrosulphite
All round excellent fastness properties
( washing, light, chlorine, rubbing)

Mechanism of Vat Dyeing

O=

Na2SO4 &NaOH

=O

Insoluble Vat Dye

Oxidation

NaO-

-ONa

Sodium Salt of Leuco

Vat dye (Soluble)

After dye bath containing NaOH and Na2SO4 is

exhausted, the dyed material is exposed to air for
oxidation or to accelerate the process, some oxidising
agents like hydrogen peroxide or sodium perborate is
added for reconversion of soluble leuco form to
insoluble form. The dyed material is washed and
soaped at boil with detergent and soda ash.

Indigo

Acid Dyes
Easily applied on Wool, Silk and nylon
fibers.
Dyed in presence of acids like formic acid,
acetic acid etc.
Acid Dyes are soluble in water and
produce colored anions
Have no affinity for cellulosic fibers

Mechanism
D-SO3Na
HOOC-W-NH2 + HCl

DSO3-+ Na+
-

OOC-W-NH3+ Cl-

Acid acts as exhausting agent. Salt

acts as retarding agent as presence
of salt increases the backward
reaction or stripping increases.

Mechanism
Sulphur dyes are insoluble or partly soluble in
water
Have slight affinity for cellulosic fibers
Converted to water soluble substantive leuco
form with reducing agent.
Sodium sulphide is the most common reducing
agent, sodium hydrosulphite may also be used.
Oxidation to convert the soluble form into the
insoluble form
Hydrogen sulphide and ammonia during dyeing,
so ventillation required

Dyeing with Disperse dyes

Dyeing of hydrophobic fibers like polyester
can be considered to be transfer of dye
from water solution to solid solution with
fiber. The steps are:
Dispersion of dye molecules in water
Adsorption of dissolved dye from solution
to fiber surface
Diffusion of the dye molecules from
surface to the interior of the fiber

 Dispersing agents help in reduction of dye

particle size and enable to form a fine
dispersion with water.
To help in diffusion of dye into hydrophobic
fibers following steps can be done:
Certain chemicals called Carriers can be
used for dyeing at boil (e.g. hydrocarbons,
phenols, amino acids, alcohols etc)
Dyeing method can be modified

Dyeing Process
High temperature and High Pressure
Dyeing (HTHP)
Thermosol Dyeing
Rapid Dyeing

Thermosol Process
Application of dye solution loosely by
padding followed by drying to remove
liquid
Heating the fiber at sufficiently high
temperature( >175 deg C for polyester) for
few seconds to one minute
The thermoplastic fibers are plasticised
and structure opens up to help diffusion of
dye molecules

HTHP Process

Basic Dyes
Dye cations are produced
Anionic sites are present throughout acrylic fiber
The cations are absorbed by the fibers and rate
of diffusion depends on the temperature
(normally above 85 deg C)
The dye cations are held to the anionic sites by
electrostatic force of attraction.
Cationic retarders are used to get level dyeing

Form of Textile
Loose Stock-Processed as packages,batts
or packed in perforated baskets,
Yarn- Processing can be done either in the
form of hank or packages
Woven Fabric-Processed in open width and
rope form
Knitted goods-Processed either in fabric
stage or garments

 Batch Dyeing Jigger

Jet
Pad-Batch Method
Continuous Dyeing Pad-dry-Pad-steam
Pad-dry-thermosol

Fiber Dyeing
Advantages
After dyeing the staple undergoes a
number of operations of opening, blending
and drafting during process of preparation
and spinning, absolute leveling is not
required dyeing to be acceptable.

Disadvantages of Yarn Dyeing

Noticeable unevenness can be observed
due to:
A) package density greater than what the
pump can overcome
B) Unequal distribution of the package
creating preferential flow path in some part
of the package
The slivers may become too much
compact during dyeing

Fabric Beam Dyeing

Agitation caused by circulation of liquor in beam
dyeing may cause superficial or structural
alterations in delicate fabrics or fabrics of
thermoplastic nature.
Moire effect can be produced
Formation of more intensely dyed zones due to
non uniform distribution of dye liquor throughout
the beam.
Appearance of less dyed zones due to
entrapped air bubbles between coils of cloth.

Dye Kitchen

Tanks for dissolving dye with stirrer

Auxiliary tanks for chemicals

Pad-Batch Method

Beam Dyeing Machine