Apparel Production Overview

Apparel Production
Overview
Khushboo
Priyambada
Introduction
Introduction to Garment
Manufacturing
Garment manufacturing is an assembly- oriented activity with a great
range of raw materials, product types, production volumes, supply chains,
retail markets and associated technologies.
Companies range from small family business to multinationals.
The clothing industry is labour intensive industry.
Departments in garment
Merchandising
Sampling
Fabric
Trims
Spreading
Sewing
Washing
Quality
Finishing
Maintenance
Finance
HR/Admin
and
store
Assurance
department
and
department
&department
accessories
Department
&Packaging
department
Accounts
Cutting
Department
department
department
department
department
Department
store department
manufacturing
unit
Process flow in garment

manufacturing unit
erchandising department
Process flow in merchandising

department
Responsibilities of a merchandiser
Source: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/36/3516/merchandising-in-an-a
industry1.asp
Sampling department
Responsibilities of sampling department

Getting clarifications about style details from merchandiser.
Checking patterns workability.
Preparation of different samples and getting the buyers approval.
Informing quality related problems, encountered during preparing
samples, to QC.
Minimizing operations and consumption.
Types of sample prepared

Design development
Source: http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/609
Types of sample prepared

Size set sample
Source: http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/609
abric store department
Functions of the fabric store department

Receive the fabric as per BOM
Fabric inspection (four point system)
Conduct fabric test (e.g. Shrinkage, colour fastness etc.)
Issue to the production department as per the requirement
Fabric audit procedure

10% random inspection for sampling or
lining or net fabric.
Inspection for production order fabric as
per buyers requirement.
Perform GSM cutting.
Perform shrinkage test.
Check
the
fabric
for
the
bowing
or
skewing.
Check fabric roll for the defects.
Allocate points to the defects.
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Trims and accessories

Store department
Functions
of
the
trims
and
accessories
department
To receive incoming material.
To check material for attribute & variables.
To arrange the incoming material in allocated racks.
To issue trims as per BOM for sampling and production &
other material as per requirement.

To maintain a record of incoming & outgoing material.
Spreading and
cutting department
Spreading and cutting flow process

Planning
Spreading and cutting flow process

Spreads
Planning
Markers
Production
Spreading
Manual
Machine
Manual
Cutting
Preparation
for sewing
Machine
Ticketing
Bundles
Cut order planning

It translates customer orders into cutting orders
minimize total production costs
meet deadlines
seek most effective use of labor, equipment, fabric and space
Responsibilities of Cut Order Planning

Examining incoming orders and piece goods width and availability
Determining volume, size ratios, and sectioning procedures for
marker making
Determining whether file markers are available or new ones are
needed
Developing specifications for optimum marker making and fabric
utilization
Determine most effective use of spreading and cutting equipment
and personnel
Issuing orders for marker making, spreading and cutting
Cutting orders
leads to
Marker planning
Lay planning
Marker planning
The results of cut order planning are cutting orders that direct marker
planning and cut planning.
The purpose of marker planning is to determine the most efficient
combination of sizes and shades for each order and to produce the best fabric
yield and equipment utilization.
One cutting order may require several markers to achieve optimum efficiency.
A lay is a stack of fabric plies that have been prepared for cutting.
Lay planning is the basis of managing cutting room labor and table space.
Spreading and cutting schedules are affected by:
table length,
type of equipment,
spread length,
spreading time and
cutting time.
Marker
is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a specific
style and the sizes to be cut from a single spread.
Marker making
is the process of determining the most efficient layout of
pattern
pieces for a specified style, fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires

time, skill and concentration)
Marker making
Marker making is a critical step in the manufacturing process.
By retaining strict control over this critical step, they keep the fabric
consumption as low as possible.
It also ensures that the issues that affect quality will be given proper
attention. These include placing patterns on grain, keeping patterns
paired, and attending to details such as drill holes and notches.
Depending on the relative efficiency of each marker produced, the
company may save or waste thousands of dollars a year.
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, Pre-Assembly Processes The Cutting Room Marking,
Spreading, Cutting and Bundling, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product
Development Approach, May 2005
Marker making
Markers types:
Blocks or Sections
Blocked or sectioned markers contain

all of the pattern pieces for one style
in one or two sizes.
Continuous
Block or section
marker
Continuous markers contain all the

pattern pieces for all sizes included in
a single cutting.
Continuous marker
Marker making
Markers types:
Open marker
Marker made with full pattern pieces.
Closed marker
Marker made with half garment parts pieces for laying along the folds of the
tube (tubular knit).
Closed marker
Marker making
Manually produced
Computerized marker
making (CAD)
Marker making
Manual marker
Created on marker paper or directly on fabric ply

Tracing by pencil or tailors chalk.
Time consuming.
Subject to errors. (pattern overlap, grain line, poor line definition,
omission of pcs.)
Accuracy depends on individuals skill.
Marker making
Computerised marker
Accurate
Shortest response time.

Direct or digitized.
Manipulate images to determine best utilization. No overlapping/no
omissions
Parameters (style #,size, etc.) for markers are entered into the
computer.
Can be printed/recalled/modified.
Criteria can be set by technician. Can be used to determine fabric
requirement.
Marker making
Marker mode : Nap/ One/ Way
The Nap/ One/ Way marker (abbreviated

N/O/W) is made with every pattern placed
with the down direction of the pattern in
the same direction.
This mode is necessary for fabrics that are
asymmetric.
All patterns are placed on-grain, and in the
down direction, which is usually toward
the left edge (starting point where the
legend is written).
The Nap/One/ Way marker is the highest
quality but least efficient of the three nap
directions for a marker.
Marker making
Marker mode : Nap/ Either/ Way
The Nap/ Either/ Way marker (abbreviated

N/E/W) is made where there is no restriction
of which way the pattern are oriented.
The patterns may be oriented either down
or up, placed wherever they fit best, only
making sure that the patterns are on-grain.
The Nap/ Either/ Way marker is usually the
most efficient mode yielding the highest
fabric utilization.
Marker making
Marker mode : Nap/ Up/& Down

The
Nap/
Up/&
Down
marker
(abbreviated N/U/D) is more efficient

than the Nap/ One/ Way marker, but not
as efficient as the Nap/ Either/ Way
marker.
In order to get a better fit between the
patterns, alternating sizes of patterns
are oriented in opposite directions.
This method is yields moderately good
fabric utilization, and good quality.
Marker making
Marker Efficiency
Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100%
Total area of the marker plan
It is determined for fabric utilization
Minimum waste
Factors affecting marker efficiency

Fabric characteristics (fabric width, length of design repeat
etc.)
Shape of Pattern pieces (large pieces less flexibility)
Grain requirements
Spreading
Spreading is the processes of superimposing lengths of fabric on a
spreading table cutting table or specially designed surface in preparation
for the cutting process
Spread or lay is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker
Requirement of spreading
Spreading
equipment
Shade sorting of cloth pieces
Spreading surfaces ( table,

Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability
pin table, vacuum table)
Alignment of plies
Correct ply tension
Elimination of fabric faults
Avoidance of distortion in the spread
Spreading machines
Spreading
preading equipment
Spreading surfaces ( table, pin table, vacuum table)
Spreading machines
Manual spreading
In
manual
spreading,
fabric
is
drawn from its package which, if it

is a roll, may be supported by a
frame and carried along the table
where
the
end
is
secured
by
weights or by clamps.
The operators work back from the
end,
aligning
the
edges
and
ensuring that there is no tension

and that there are no wrinkles.
Machine spreading
Spreading machines carry the piece of fabric
from end to end of the spread, dispensing one
ply at a time on the spread.
Spreading machines may include:
A motor to drive
A platform on which the operator rides
A ply cutting device with automatic catcher to hold
the ends of ply in place

A ply counter
An alignment shifter actuated by photo electric edge
guides
A turntable
A direct drive on the fabric support, synchronized
with the speed of travel, to reduce or eliminate

tension in the fabric being spread.
Spreading
Spreading Mode: Nap one way & face one way spreading
Most common spreading method that can also be done manually.
Fabric roll is kept on a roller stand and fabric end is being pulled by two
spreading operators (thus unwinding fabric from freely rotating roll)
walking along both sides of cutting table.
While using machine, the lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and
machine carries the rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the
fabric in the process.
Every layer has to start from same end thus spreading machine has to
come back to starting position without spreading the fabric. This return
movement of spreading machine is called as dead heading
Face one
way
Nap one
way
Source: Prabir Jana, Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products, 2005
Spreading
Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face to face
spreading
The quickest spreading method while using spreading machine.
Difficult to achieve manually.
The machine carry the fabric roll while the end is being held in
place by catcher, at layer end fabric is not cut just folded and held
by another catcher while the fabric is being laid by the machine
during its return movement also.
Face to
face
Nap
either
way
Spreading
Spreading Mode: Nap one-way face to face spreading
Most time consuming method of spreading.
The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the
rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by
180 degree and return back to starting position without.
Now from the starting end the second layer is being laid face to face.
Face to
face
Nap one
way
Spreading
Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face one way spreading
The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the
rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by
180 degree and start spreading the second layer from the opposite end
face one way. There is no dead heading by the machine in this
spreading mode.
Face one
way
Nap
either
way
Spreading
Spreading costs
Labour cost
Fabric waste
Splicing loss
End loss
Width loss
Cutti
ng
roo
m
Cutting
Manual
Cutting
Cutting
Scissors
Manual cutting
Cutting
Portable cutting knives
Power system
Handle
Sharpening
Cutting blade
Blade guard
Up and down
movement
One way thrust as the
circular blade makes
contact with the fabric
Round knife
Base plate
Straight knife
Cutting
Portable cutting knives
Straight knife
Round knife
Vertical blade
Popular, light and fast.
Reciprocates up and down
Suitable only for cutting in
Corners and curves can be cut
straight lines
accurately
Most versatile and commonly
used
or very gradual curves, in

depths of
about 15cm
Blades length - 6 to 14 inches
Larger blade cuts up to 2" of
Spread depth depends on blade
soft or
length &
adjustable height of the blade
guard
All of the pieces cut from a lay
bulky material, or lower lays of

harder
material such as shirts
Small blade cuts single layer
Cutting
Stationary cutters: Band knife
Contains a narrow, sharpened, endless

steel band
Fabric layers are guided by hand against
the blade
Air cushion is provided below the fabric
layers
Plies are stapled together to prevent
slippage
Used for precision cutting to a depth of up
to 300mm
Corners, tight curves and pointed incisions
are cut
precisely
Band knives are more accurate for small
Cutting
Stationary cutters: Servo
Overhead servo motor
cutting
Adjustable speed
Suspension system that
supports the knife
perpendicular
to the cutting table
Knife is mounted on a
swivel arm
It combines vertical cutting
and
band knife cutting into one
machine
Cutting
Stationary cutters: Die cutting
Dies are pre shaped metal outlines

Most accurate
Die cutting operation involves
Placement of fabric
Positioning the die on the fabric
Engaging the machine to press the die

into the fabric
Used mainly for leather, coated and

laminated
materials
Areas where the same patterns are
used over
a long period, e.g. collar, pocket
flaps
Cutting
Stationary cutters: Plasma
Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity jet of high temperature
cutting
ionized gas (argon)
Faster cutter of single plies
High engineering and cost issues
Problems same as for laser cutting
Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity jet of high temperature
ionized gas (argon)
Faster cutter of single plies
High engineering and cost issues
Cutting
Stationary cutters: Water jet
Very high velocity, fine stream of water
cutting
High pressure jet acts as a solid tool, tears the fibers on impact
As the jet penetrates successive plies in a spread, the momentum
decreases and cutting
ability is reduced frayed edges
Wet edges, water spots, inconsistent cutting quality
Leather, plastic, vinyl
High equipment costs
Cutting
Position markers: Notchers
Notches can be cut by straight knife too
but
accuracy is required
Specialized
notching
equipment
provides
greater accuracy because a guide
lines up the
notcher with the cut edge
Hot notcher consists of a heating
element
(blade) that slightly scorches the
fibers adjacent
to the notch (thermoplastic fibers)
Two types of notches:
Cutting
Position markers: Drills and thread
Drill mount consists of motor, base plate with a
markers
hole and spirit
level
Used for reference markers needed away from the
edge of a
garment part, e.g. position of pockets, darts, etc.
A hole is drilled through the lay
Normally, drill is used cold, hole remains visible
until the sewing
Hypodermic
operator comes
to use
it drill leaves small deposit of paint on each
(or dye
spot)
weave hot drill is used which slightly

plyLoose
of fabric
scorches
fuse must eventually be concealed by the construction of the
ALL drillorholes
the edges of the hole
garment
Ticketing
Preparation for sewing
Tickets carry details : style no,

size,
ply no, bundle no., date
issued
Operations
may
be
incorporated for
payment purposes, control of
work
and facilitating quality control
Preparation for sewing
Bundling
Small batches of garments move from one work station to another in a
controlled way
Tens, dozens, 2 dozens, etc.
If ticketing is not done, a top ply labeling system is done
Bundle ticket consists of

Order no. 6015
Bundle no. 1430
Quantity 12
Style no. 3145
Size 12
Section collar
Sewing department
Sewing process flow
Sewing department
Production
system
Sewing
department
Sewing department
Production system: Make through system
It is the traditional method of manufacture in which an operator makes right
through
one garment at a time.
Source: ApparelKey.com
Sewing department
Production system: Conventional bundle
system
Sewing machines are arranged in lines.
The work flows from the central (store) area to the first
machine, from the first machine back to the store, and
then on to the next machine, and so forth.
A distributor stationed at the store is responsible for
receiving and dispatching the work.
The work in progress is in the form of bundles.
These bundles may be put on to a tray, a box, or a bag,
or the garment parts may be wrapped and tied.
Sewing department
Production system: Clump system
A worker collects a clump of materials from
the worktable and carries out the first
operation.
After he has completed his part of the
work, he returns it to the table.
A worker for the second operation then
continues the work and so on.
The process is ' collection - work -return'
continues until the whole garment has
been assembled.
Sewing department
Production
system:
Progressive
bundle system
Sewing operations are laid out in sequence.
Each operator receives a bundle, does his work,
reties the bundle and passes it to the next
operator.
There is a storage facility such as rack, bin or
table for storing the inter-process work between
each operation.
The work is routed by means of tickets.
This system is the most widely used system in
the garment industry today. It is used in shirt
factories, jeans factories, jacket factories, etc.
Sewing department
Production system: Flexible flow system
A section of sewing operators, each with a supply of
work in a rack at the side, work at an engineered work
place.
The machines are laid out in such a way that a flow of
work can be planned using the correct number of
operators in sequence.
For style A garments, the work distributed after
operation 1 can be distributed to the two operators
performing operation 2. On completion, the work from
both workers is then sent to operator 3. After operation
3, the work is continued by the two operators
performing operation 4 and so on.
When a new style is to be loaded on to the system, the
number of operators needed for each operation must
be planned in detail to ensure a balanced output.
Sewing department
Production
system:
Straight
line
system
The manufacturing process is broken down
into several operations, which take the same
time to complete.
Groups of operators are required to handle
only individual garments.
The garment parts pass from one operator to
the
next,
completely
until
the
made
up
garment
by
one
has
been
group
of
operators.
The central distribution unit may be a fixed
table or a a conveyor belt (its speed will be
set to suit the cycle time).
Sewing department
Production system: Synchro flow

system
Garment parts of the same size and color
are processed separately.
Different garment parts can be processed
simultaneously for assembling.
At the same time, collars, sleeves, cuffs,
pockets, etc., from other lines also go down
a central line.
The
different
processed
garment
together
to
parts
form
garments.
are
then
completed
Sewing department
Production system: Unit production system
A unit production system (UPS) is a computer-controlled production
line.
It is a type of line layout that uses an overhead transport system to
move individual units from work-station to work station for assembly.
All the parts for a single garment are advanced through the production
line together by means of a hanging carrier that travels along an
overhead conveyor.
Production operations are completed without removing the parts from
the carrier.
Automated materials handling replaces the traditional system of
bundling, tying and untying, and manually moving garment parts.
Electronic data can be collected from workstations, which provides
payroll and inventory data, immediate tracking
of styles, and costing
Sewing department
Production
system:
Modular
manufacturing system
Modular manufacturing groups operators
into teams, or modules.
The team works on one/a few garment at a
time instead of a bundle of garments.
The operators stand /sit at their stations
and rotate to different machines as they
work, becoming familiar with multiple steps
in producing the garment.
Seams and stitches
Sewing Machine
Thread-guides
Thumb-nut
screw
Stitch
regulator
Take-up lever
Tension
discs/checkspring
Needle
bar
Needle
Throat
plate
Reversing
lever
Needle guard
Presser foot
Machine
bed
Sewing Machine
Needle Bar
Needle
Throat plate
Needle Eye
Presser Foot
Feed Dog
Sewing Machine
Stitch forming
devices
Stitch
Device used
Lock stitch
Bobbin hook
Chain stitch
Looper
Over lock
Looper and spreader
Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)
Sewing Machine
The bobbin of a lock stitch
machine
Sewing Machine
Machine beds
Raised bed
Flat bed
Sewing Machine
Machine beds
Cylinder bed
Feed of arm
Sewing Machine
Machine beds
Post bed
Seams & Stitches

Garments are shaped and formed in three ways:
materials molded to a form,
fabric pieces cut to shape and assembled by bonding, and
pieces cut to shape and sewn.
For the purpose of standardization of stitch and seam formations, the U.S
government developed a guide that defines stitches and seams in current

use. The United States Federal Stitch and Seam Specifications (Federal
Standard 751a) were adopted in 1965.
The British Standard BS 3870: Schedule of Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings
was also developed about the same time.

The Federal Standard 751a have been replaced by ASTM D 6193, Standards
Related to Stitches and Seams.
Seams & Stitches

ASTM D 6193 gives the following definitions:
A stitch is the configuration of the interlacing of sewing thread in a
specific repeated unit.
A seam is a line where two or more fabrics are joined.
A stitching consists of a series of stitches embodied in a material for
ornamental purposes or finishing an edge or both.
Seams
Seams & Stitches
The basic function of a seam is to hold pieces of fabric together.

To perform its function correctly, the seam should have properties or
characteristics closely allied to those of the fabrics being sewn.
The careful selection of the most appropriate seam, a suitable stitch type
together with the correct thread and machine settings for the fabric and
end-product is of paramount importance.
Seams & Stitches
Physical properties of
Strength: a seam must be
seam
strong. Strength is usually measured in two
directions: across the seam (lateral or transverse strength) and along the
seam (longitudinal strength).
Extensibility
Durability: A seam must be durable, long-lasting and not abrade or wear
easily during everyday use of the garment

Security: a seam needs to be secure and not unravel during everyday use of
the garment
Appearance properties: the ideal seam should join pieces of fabric in an
unobtrusive and efficient manner with no discontinuity in physical

properties or appearance.
Balance
Seams & Stitches
Classification of seams
Superimposed seam
Lap seam
Bound seam
Flat seam
Edge finishing
Superimposed seam
Bound seam
Lap seam
Edge finishing
Flat seam
Stitches
Seams & Stitches
Stitch properties
Stitch size has three dimensions: length, width, and depth.
Stitch length is specified as the number of stitches per inch (spi) and can
be an indicator of quality. High spi means short stitches; low spi means
long stitches. Generally, the greater the spi, the more the holding power
and seam strength.
Stitch width refers to the horizontal span (bight) covered in the formation
of one stitch or single line of stitching. Stitches that have width

dimensions require multiple needles or lateral movement of thread
carriers such as the needle bars, loopers or spreaders.
Stitch depth is the distance between the upper and lower surface of the
stitch. It is a factor for blind stitches.
Seams & Stitches
Stitch
Stitch classification is based on structure of the stitch and method of interlacing.
classification
Seams & Stitches
Stitch
100 Class stitch: Single thread chain stitch
classification
Using one needle thread and one blind looper
Diagram
Stitch
class
Thread
count
Typical uses
101 Class
One thread
Basting, or light
construction
103 Class
One thread
Blind stitch for

hemming
104 Class
One thread
Blind stitch for

hemming
Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/100cl.htm
Seams & Stitches
Stitch
200 Class stitch: Single thread hand sewn stitch
classification
Using one needle thread
Diagram
Stitch
Thread
class
count
202 Class
205 Class
One Thread
One Thread
Typical uses
Basting, tacking or
repairs
Pick stitch topstitching
Seams & Stitches
Stitch
300 Class stitch: Two or more thread lock stitch
classification
Using Needle Thread(s) and One Bobbin Hook Thread
Diagram
Stitch
Thread
class
count
301 Class
Two threads
Typical uses
Seaming multiple plies
Zig-zag stitch; a stretch
304 Class
Two thread
306 Class
Two thread
Blind stitch
315 Class
Two threads
Three step zig-zag
lockstitch
Seams & Stitches
Stitch
400 Class stitch: Multi-thread chain stitch
classification
Using one or more needle threads and one or more looper threads
Diagram
Stitch class
401 Class
404 Class
406 Class
Thread count
Typical uses
Two threads
Seaming multiple
plies with
moderate stretch
Two threads
Topstitching or
seaming with
stretch
Three threads
"Bottom cover
stitch; a (greater)
stretch chain
stitch
Seams & Stitches
Stitch
500 Class Stitch: Multi-thread over edge chain stitch
classification
Using needle thread(s) and looper thread(s)
Diagram
Stitch
class
Thread
count
Typical uses
501 Class
One thread
One needle over edge

stitch for serging /
blanket stitch"
502 Class
Two thread
One needle over edge

stitch for serging
503 Class
Two thread
Over edge stitch for

serging with crossover on
edge of fabric
504 Class
Three thread
Over edge stitch for

serging and light seaming
Seams & Stitches
Stitch
500 Class Stitch: Multi-thread over edge chain stitch
classification
Using needle thread(s) and looper thread(s)
Diagram
Stitch
class
Thread
count
Typical uses
512
Class
Four
Thread
Mock safety stitch for seaming

with wide bite and greater
stretch for knits
514
Class
Four
Thread
Over edge stitch for seaming

with wide bite and greater
stretch for knits
515
Class
Four
Thread
True safety stitch for seaming

with good stretch for wovens
and knits
516
Class
Five
Thread
True safety stitch for seaming

with good stretch for wovens
and knits
Seams & Stitches
Stitch
600 Class Stitch: Multi-thread cover stitches
classification
Diagram
Stitch class
Thread
count
Typical uses
602 Class
Four thread
Cover stitch or
seaming knits
605 Class
Five thread
Cover stitch
607 Class
Six thread
Wide cover
stitch
Quality department
Quality department
Responsibilities of quality department

To impart quality in the product.
To ensure that the product has achieved the quality parameters of buyers.
To restrict the defects entering into the final product.
Main function of quality department is to carry out inspection.
Inspection can be defined as the visual examination or review of raw materials,
partially finished components of the garments and completely finished garments
in relation to some standards, specifications, or requirements, as well as
measuring the garments to check if they meet the required measurements.
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, Managing quality in apparel produc
Quality department
Principle of inspection (inspection loop)
Quality department
How much to inspect ?

No inspection
100% inspection
Spot checking- inspecting random shipments
Arbitrary sampling-10% sampling
Statistical sampling or acceptance sampling-flexibility with regard to
the amount of inspection to be performed
Quality department
Inspection terms
Sample: A sample consists of one or more units of a product drawn from a

lot or batch, the units of the sample being selected at random without
regards to their quality. The number of units of a product in the sample is
the sample size.
Lot or batch: Means Inspection lot or Inspection Batch, that is a
collection of units of a product from which a sample is to be drawn and
inspected.
Lot or batch size: The lot or batch size is the number of units of a product
in a lot or batch
Percent defective =
Number of defectives
100
Number of units inspected
Quality department
Identification of defects
Major Defect: A defect that, if conspicuous on the finished product, would

cause the item to be second.
Minor Defect: A defect that would not cause the product to be termed as
a second either because of severity or location.
Second: A Second is a garment with a conspicuous defect that affects
the saleability or serviceability of the item.
Quality department
Spreading defects
Possible Pattern Defects:
Pattern parts missing
Skimpy marking
Mixed parts
Generous marking
Patterns not facing in the correct
Marker too wide
direction on napped fabrics
Not enough knife clearance
Patterns not all facing in the same

direction on a one-way fabric
Patterns not aligned with respect

to the fabric grain
freedom
Line definition poor
Mismatched
checks
and
stripes
Notches
and
omitted,
drill
marks
indistinct,
or
misplaced
Quality department
Cutting defects
Frayed edges
Fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges

Ply-to-ply fusion
Single-edge fusion
Pattern precision- Under-cut, Over-cut
Notches
Drills
Quality department
Sewing defects
Needle Damage
Pleated seams
Feed Damage
Wrong stitch density
Skipped stitches
Uneven stitch density
Thread breaks
Staggered stitch
Broken stitches
Improperly formed stitches
Seam grin
Oil spots or stains
Seam pucker
Quality department
Seaming defects
Incorrect or uneven width of inlay

Irregular or incorrect shape of sewing line
Insecure back stitching
Twisted seam
Mismatched checks or stripes
Mismatched seam
Extraneous part caught in a seam, an unrelated piece showing through the
seam
Reversed garment part
Blind stitching showing on the face side
Wrong seam or stitch type used
Wrong shade of thread used
Quality department
Assembly defects
Finished components nor correct to size or shape or not symmetrical.

Finished garment not to size
Parts, components, closures or features omitted
Components or features wrongly positioned or misaligned
Interlining incorrectly positioned
Lining too full, too tight, showing below the bottom of the garment,
twisted,
Garment parts cockling, pleated, twisted, showing bubbles and fullness
Garment parts shaded
Parts in one-way fabrics in wrong direction
Mismatched trimming
Quality department
Checks for final inspection

Open seams
Snaps, fasteners, buttons
Skipped stitches
Labels
Cracked stitches
Elastic
Stitches/inch
Measurements
Uneven seams
Mends or repairs
Crooked, puckered, curled, pleated
Stripe
seams
Hems
Needle and feed cuts
Trim
Unclipped threads and Long ends
Broken needle
Raw edge
Distortion
Quality department
AQL: Accepted quality level
The AQL is the maximum percent defective that, for the purpose of
sampling inspection can be considered satisfactory as a process
average.
The AQL is a designated value of percent defective that the customer
indicates will be accepted most of the time by the acceptance sampling
procedures to be used.
Quality department
Sample size code letters
Lot or Batch Size
Sample size code letter
to
to
15
16
to
25
26
to
50
51
to
90
91
to
150
151
to
280
281
to
500
501
to
1200
1201
to
3200
3201
to
10000
10001
to
35000
Quality department
Sampling Plans
Sample Size
Code
Letter
Sample
Size
Acceptable Quality Level

2.5
6.5
Ac
Re
Ac
Re
Ac
10
Re
Ac
Re
13
20
32
50
10
11
80
10
11
14
15
125
10
11
14
15
21
22
200
10
11
14
15
21
22
21
22
315
14
15
21
22
21
22
21
22
Finishing and
packaging department
Finishing and packaging department

Finishing is the last stage of garment production where garment gets
its final look.
In this department each garment undergoes different finishing
processes.
It undergoes for quality check for several number of time which sets
the garment free from defects.
Buyer specifications and instructions are strictly maintained.

Operations performed at
Thread cutting:
finishing
stage Uncut threads affect the presentation of finished and
packed garments. Therefore, it is necessary to cut and trim the loose
and uncut threads.
Stain removal: Removal of the following type of stains:
Oil, yellow, black and paint spots, stains due to color bleeding, ink,
rust, tracing marks, yellow stains, and hard stains
Seam ironing:
Ironing
of garments using steam ironing tables with
vacuum boards.
Final finishing: The entire garment is finished using various finishing
equipments.

Tagging and
packing: The pass pieces are brought to the tagging and
finishing
stage
packing section. It is the responsibility of the packing supervisors to
provide the tagging operators with the appropriate price and brand
tags. He also instructs the tagging operator as to where and how the
tag has to be placed. The most important thing to be kept in mind
while placing the tag is to match the size mentioned on the main label
and the size on tag. The step after the tagging is to pack the garments
as per the specification of the buyer.

finishing
stage
Presentation
checking and cartoon packing
It is very important to check the packed garments for presentation.
Checkers check the packed garments for the following things:
Poly bags are as per specification.
Tags and price stickers are as per specification.
Packing is secured or not if specified.
Poly bags should not be soiled and torn.
Hangers are there or not if specified.
Garment has been folded as per specification etc.

finishing
stage
Presentation
checking and cartoon packing
Once, checking is done they send the garments for the carton packing. The
following things are kept in mind during carton packing:
Number of garments to be packed in one carton.
Ratio asked for example S:M:L=2:1:1
Packing the garments in the cartons as per specified.
Closing the cartons with cello tape.
Sealing the cartons with plastic cord.
Writing on carton information like: Store or buyer name, buyer's address,

ratio, net
weight of the carton etc.
Thank you

Apparel Production Overview

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Apparel Production Overview

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Apparel Production

Process flow in garment

Process flow in merchandising

Responsibilities of sampling department

Types of sample prepared

Types of sample prepared

abric store department

Functions of the fabric store department

Fabric audit procedure

Trims and accessories

other material as per requirement.

Spreading and cutting flow process

Spreading and cutting flow process

Cut order planning

Responsibilities of Cut Order Planning

spreading time and

pieces for a specified style, fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires

Blocked or sectioned markers contain

Continuous markers contain all the

Created on marker paper or directly on fabric ply

Subject to errors. (pattern overlap, grain line, poor line definition,

Shortest response time.

Manipulate images to determine best utilization. No overlapping/no

Criteria can be set by technician. Can be used to determine fabric

Marker mode : Nap/ One/ Way

The Nap/ One/ Way marker (abbreviated

Marker mode : Nap/ Either/ Way

The Nap/ Either/ Way marker (abbreviated

Marker mode : Nap/ Up/& Down

(abbreviated N/U/D) is more efficient

Factors affecting marker efficiency

Shade sorting of cloth pieces

Spreading surfaces ( table,

drawn from its package which, if it

ensuring that there is no tension

the ends of ply in place

with the speed of travel, to reduce or eliminate

Source: Prabir Jana, Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products, 2005

Source: Prabir Jana, Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products, 2005

Source: Prabir Jana, Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products, 2005

Source: Prabir Jana, Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products, 2005

Popular, light and fast.

Reciprocates up and down

Suitable only for cutting in

Corners and curves can be cut

or very gradual curves, in

Blades length - 6 to 14 inches

Larger blade cuts up to 2" of

Spread depth depends on blade

bulky material, or lower lays of

Contains a narrow, sharpened, endless

Dies are pre shaped metal outlines

Positioning the die on the fabric

Engaging the machine to press the die

Used mainly for leather, coated and

Notches can be cut by straight knife too

Two types of notches:

weave hot drill is used which slightly

Preparation for sewing

Tickets carry details : style no,

Preparation for sewing

Bundle ticket consists of

Sewing process flow