EVALUATION OF FINISHES

BYANKIT ANAND(02)
CHAITANYA MANAS(O8)
PRERNA TEOTIA
RAJIV RANJAN

FLAME RETARDANCY
CREASE RESISTANCE
WATER AND SOIL RESISTANCE
PILLING RESISTANCE

FLAME RETARDANT FINISHES:

Thereisno single test for this finish.
The

test

conditions

used

to

make

this

determination will reflect on the specific fabric

and its intended end-use.
Generally speaking, a fabricisdeemed to be
flame retardantifit does not ignite and create
a

self-sustaining

flame

when

subjected

toaheat source.
Therefore a pile fabric made from rayon
fibsisconsidered to behighlyflammable while

Properties of flame
retardant finishes:

Flame retardant chemicals are water soluble.

Fabrics should be dry cleaned only in an "uncharged"

system containing no water. Fabric should be

evaluated for flammability after each cleaning.
Flame retardant will be partially or completely

removed by washing.
Avoid use in damp areas or contact with moisture .Use

only indoors, in climate controlled environments .

FLAMMABILITY TESTS:
Some of the variables are:
1. the way the heat source is
presented as itisbeing ignited, i.e.,
vertical, horizontal or 45 degree
angle
2. temperature of the heat source.

THE CREASE RECOVER TEST

Two test methods are used for carrying out
this test.
I) Shirley crease recovery test
II) Total crease recovery test

Shirley crease recovery test

Specimens are cut with a template of 2
inches X1 inches size. Each specimen is
carefully creased by folding into half and
pressing it by placing between two
smooth glass plates. After one minute
weight is removed.
The specimen is taken out and
transferred to the fabric clamp on the
instrument and was allowed to recover
from the crease.
After one minute the recovery angle is
noted in degrees.
Ten readings are taken in a similar way on

Test on the total crease recovery

tester :

Specimens are cut from

the fabric in both warp and
weft direction 4 cm X 1 cm
size.
The specimen is folded
and creased by placing it
under 500-gram weight.
After five minutes the
specimen is removed and
suspended over a wire.
Altogether three minutes
are allowed after which the
distance between the ends
of the inverted crease was

Formaldehyde Release Test

(Responsible For Crease)
Formaldehyde release is the
amountofformaldehyde that escapes from a
fabric into the atmosphere.
Itis determined by the mason jar method,
AATCC Test Method112.
The method calls for suspending1gram of
fabric inasealed quart mason jar containing
distilled water
in the bottom.
Thejar isincubated for 20 hours at 490C.The
formaldehyde that collects in the
waterisanalyzed and the results are reported

SOIL RELEASE TESTS

AATCC Method 130
Designed to measure the ability of fabrics to
release oily stains during home laundering.
In this test a stain is applied to a test specimen.
An amount of the staining substance is forced
into the fabric by using a specified weight.
The stained fabric is then laundered in a
prescribed manner and the residual stain rated
on a scale from 5 to 1 by comparison with a stain
release replica showing a graduated series of

WATER REPELLENCY
It is more difficult to define because various
static and dynamic tests are used to measure
water repellency.
Afabric's resistance to water will depend on the
nature of the fiber surface, the porosity of the
fabric and the dynamic force behind the
impacting water spray.

WATER-PROOF FABRICS

Water Proof fabricare resistant to the

penetration of water under much higher
hydrostatic pressure than are water-repellent
fabrics.
These fabrics have fewer open pores and are
less permeable to the passage ofairand
water vapour.
The more waterproofafabric, the less ableit
isto permit the passage of air or water
vapour.

PILLING
Pilling is a phenomenon exhibited by fabrics formed from
spun yarns (yarns made from staple fibres). Pills are masses
of tangled fibres that appear on fabric surfaces during wear
or

laundering.

Fabrics

with

pills

have

an

unsightly

appearance and an unpleasant handle. Loose fibres are

pulled from yarns and are formed into spherical balls by the
frictional forces of abrasion. These balls of tangled fibres are
held to the fabric surface by longer fibres called anchor
fibres. Fabrics made from cotton, wool or rayon do not
usually display pilling problems since the anchor fibres are
easily broken and pills fall from the fabric soon after they are
formed.

Mechanisms and chemistry of anti-pilling

finishes:
Several chemical finishing approaches have been taken to
prevent pills from
accumulating on fabric surfaces.
The first approach is to prevent loose fibres from forming
the initial fuzz by applying polymeric coatings that bind
the fibres into the fabric surface. These finishes typically
include friction reducing lubricants to minimise abrasion
damage.
The second chemical finish approach to reduce pilling is
to cause the pills to fall off the fabric as soon as they are
formed. This can be accomplished by reducing fibre
strength. Modified fibres are called pilling-poor if the pills
are scrubbed off within two hours in the random tumble
pilling test.

Evaluation of anti- pilling finishes:

ASTM D 3512, Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance
and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics:
(Random Tumble Pilling Tester)
Tumble Pilling test Scope: Determines the resistance to the
formation of pills and other related surface changes of
textile fabrics using the random tumble pilling tester.

Method:
Samples are laundered 3 times and then
conditioned in atmospheric conditions for
textiles.
The edges of 3 4x4 squares cut on the bias
are sealed with glue and allowed to dry.
The 3 samples are placed in the pilling
chamber along with 25mg of grey-dyed
cotton fiber and tumbled for 30 minutes.
The samples are evaluated in a viewing
apparatus against photographic standards
(ASTM ADJD 3512) or in house fabric

BIBLIOGRAPHY
http://

en.texsite.info/Crease_resistant_finishing%
3B_anticrease_finishing%3B_wrinkle-resistan
t_finishing
http://
www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/637233
/water-repellent-fabric
http://
www.tx.ncsu.edu/tpacc/comfort-performance/
subjective-evaluation-of-fabric-hand.cfm