BY MACKENZIE WALTON

MARCH 2012

THREAD &
SEAM
CONSTRUCTION

THREAD BASICS

Thread sizing conventions

Common types of sewing thread

Thread Size
Thread size is determined the same way that yarn size is
determined for textiles. While there are different systems,
they are all based on weight and length specifications, and
not by diameter as might be assumed.

METRIC TICKET (Nm)

# of 1,000 metre lengths in 1,000 grams

COTTON COUNT (Ne)

# of 840 yard hanks in 1 pound
TEX
grams per 10,000 metres

DENIER
grams per 9,000 metres

Thread Size

Thread Size
GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR THREAD SIZE SELECTION
SEWING THREAD
SIZES BY TEX

FABRIC
WEIGHT (GSM)

FABRIC
WEIGHT
(oz/yd2)

18, 24

65 - 140

2-4

T-shirts, Lingerie

24, 27, 30

140 - 200

4-6

Shirts, Dresses

30, 40

200 - 275

6-8

Light-Weight Bottoms

40, 60

275 - 400

8 - 12

Light-Weight Denim

60, 80, 105

400 - 500

12 - 15

Heavy-Weight Denim

GARMENT EXAMPLES

Common thread
types
COTTON THREAD
Generally provides good sewing performance but strength
and abrasion resistance is inferior to synthetic threads of
equal thickness

Mostly used for piece-dye items

Shrinkage may cause puckering after wash/dye
Can be mercerized reduces shrinkage, increases
strength and luster, improves dye up-take

Common thread
types
COTTON THREAD
MERCERIZATION

Common thread
types
SPUN POLYESTER THREAD
Made with staple polyester fibers. Provides good sewing
performance, good dimensional stability and good stitch
locking properties due to the fibrous surface.
Resistant to sunlight and chemicals
Stronger than cotton, including 4X better abrasion
resistance
Ideal for light to medium weight fabrics

Common thread
types
CORESPUN POLYESTER THREAD
Made by spinning staple polyester or cotton fibers around
a continuous filament polyester core. Provides enhanced
strength and elongation while maintaining stitch locking
ability and can be run at higher speeds without breakages.
Higher machine speeds mean an increase in
productivity by up to 21%
Best thread for heavy fabrics, like denim and outerwear
More consistent sewing quality due to better loop
formation and resistance to damage
Most expensive general purpose sewing thread

Common thread
types
TEXTURED FILAMENT THREAD

Continuous filaments of polyester or nylon are entangled

by various methods to create softness and bulk. Ideal for
overlocking and the looper of coverseams, these threads
provide excellent coverage for raw edges
Most economical thread
Softness makes it ideal for lopping threads that sit close
to the skin
Excellent elasticity for stretch fabric applications
Often found in intimates, baby clothes, and athletic
wear

Common thread
types
OTHER THREAD TYPES

Mono-filament Invisible Thread

Embroidery Thread
Elastic Thread
Specialty Lurex, Indigo
Locked Filament Thread
Glow in the Dark

Common thread
types
LUBRICATION
Regardless of construction, all threads are finished with a
lubricating coating. This facilitates the passage of the
thread through the machine and needles, reducing friction
and heat that can cause damage.
LIFE SPAN
Under optimal conditions, thread will last about 18 months
before the lubricants start to break down and thread
quality starts to deteriorate. Unsurprisingly, most factories
do not store thread in optimal conditions and so this period
is usually much shorter.

NEEDLE BASICS

Needle sizing conventions

Different Needle Types

Needle Sizing

Needle Types
Most sewing is done with rounded-point
needles. Actual cutting points are only
used for leather and similar fabrics. Set
Points are normal, lightly rounded points
used for wovens, while knits demand
more rounded needles, referred to as ball points

Different levels of roundness are identified with letter

markers

Needle Types
R = Normal round
for light woven fabrics
SPI = Acute round
For densely woven fabrics
SES = Light Ball
Fine to medium knits, fine denim, medium to heavy
wovens
SUK = Medium Ball
Stonewashed denims, corsetry
SKF = Heavy Ball
Fine elastic materials, coarse knits
SKL = Special Ball
Medium to coarse elastic materials, coarse knits, lycra

Needle-Thread
Pairing
The fabric and end use will determine the thread size and
type, and needle type that you will use. The chosen thread
will determine the needle size. There will be a range of
possible thread sizes and types that can be used with any
given fabric, depending on the application.

SEAM CONSTRUCTION
Seam Types
Stitch Types
Applications
What makes a good seam

Seam Types
Superimposed Seams (basic simple seam)
Lapped Seams
Lapped felled seams

Flat Seams
Bound seams
Edge finishing

Seam Types

SUPERIMPOSED SEAMS

STANDARD SEAM
FRENCH SEAM

Seam Types
LAPPED SEAMS
LAPPED SEAM

FELLED SEAM

Seam Types
FLAT SEAMS

Seam Types
BOUND SEAMS

Seam Types
EDGE FINISHING

Stitch Types
301 - LOCKSTITCH

Basic 1-needle straight stitch

Uses least amount of thread
Tightest and most secure stitch
High abrasion resistance due to low profile on
the fabric
No stretch

Stitch Types
304 - ZIGZAG

1-needle zigzag lockstitch

Can stretch, and can provide edge coverage
Used to apply lace or appliques
Used for bar tacks and button holes

Stitch Types
101 - CHAINSTITCH
Formed using 1 thread only no bobbin or
looper
On its own it is only suitable as a basting stitch
Blind hemming is a variation of this stitch

Stitch Types
401 - CHAINSTITCH
Formed using 2 threads needle and looper
Appears the same as 401, but is much more
secure and durable
Ability to stretch
Excellent for setting elastic
Frequently used for topstitching and for lapped
seams on high-wear garments like denim
Less thread passes through the fabric than on
a lockstitch, which can reduce seam pucker
404 Zigzag chainstitch

Stitch Types
406 and 407 COVER STITCH

406 uses 3 threads, 407 uses 4

Excellent stretch. 407 has the most stretch
Excellent strength
Looper stitches are more efficient because you
dont have to change a bobbin
Less thread passes through the fabric than on
a lockstitch, which can reduce seam pucker
Increased seam bulk
Increased cost

Stitch Types

503 2-THREAD OVEREDGE SERGE

Formed using 1 needle and 1 looper thread
No structural strength only suitable for
coverage of inner seam allowances

504 3-THREAD OVEREDGE SERGE

(OVERLOCK)
Formed using 1 needle thread, 1 looper thread,
and 1 cover thread
Most common for overlocking, and often used
for sewing seams on knit fabric

Stitch Types
512 and 514 MOCK SAFETY STITCH
Formed using 2 needle threads, 1 looper, and
1 cover thread
Common for seaming knits, and can be used
for wovens as well
Only 514 should be used on knits as it has
better stretch

Stitch Types
515, 516 SAFETY STITCHES
A combination of an overedge stitch with a
401 chainstitch
515: 4-thread safety uses a 503 overedge
serge
516: 5-thread safety uses a 504 overlock stitch

Stitch Types
FLATLOCK 600 CLASS
Formed using 2 4 needle threads plus 1
looper thread and 1 cover thread
Fabric edges butt together but do not overlap
Highly elastic seams with very low profile for
maximum comfort
Efficient to sew
Very high thread consumption
Common for performance and scuba wear

Stitch Types
SPECIALTY STITCHES
Pick Stitch - classic
Pick Stitch on knits

Stitch Types
SPECIALTY STITCHES
Whip Stitch
Blanket Stitch (single buttonhole)

Elements of a Good
Seam

Tension
SPI
Thread Choice
Stitch Choice
Needle Type
Needle Condition
Seam Width
Additional Elements

Trouble Shooting
SEAM PROBLEMS

Seam Pucker
Grinning
Skipped Stitches
Broken Needle Threads
Broken Bobbin Threads
Needle Damage on Fabric
Seam Slippage

Trouble Shooting
SEAM PROBLEMS

Seam Pucker
Grinning
Skipped Stitches
Broken Needle Threads
Broken Bobbin Threads
Needle Damage on Fabric
Seam Slippage

Trouble Shooting
SEAM PUCKER
Bad tension
Bad feed
Fabric-Thread instability
Uneven shrinkage during finishing
Thread-bloat from washing

Structural jamming/Inherent pucker

Tight weaving does not have enough room
between yarns for thread
Sewing caused yarns to be pushed out of place

Trouble Shooting
SEAM PROBLEMS

Seam Pucker
Grinning
Skipped Stitches
Broken Needle Threads
Broken Bobbin Threads
Needle Damage on Fabric
Seam Slippage

Trouble Shooting
Grinning
Loose tension
Incorrect stitch choice
Lockstitch is the tightest stitch and will grin less
than other stitches

Trouble Shooting
SEAM PROBLEMS

Seam Pucker
Grinning
Skipped Stitches
Broken Needle Threads
Broken Bobbin Threads
Needle Damage on Fabric
Seam Slippage

Trouble Shooting
SKIPPED STITCHES
Bad tension
Machine timing is off
Bobbin hook or looper is not entering needle
thread loop at correct time

Incorrect needle choice

The wrong needle can cause problems in
creating the needle thread loop

Damaged needle
If the needle is bent, or is striking the throat
plate, it may not create the loop in the right
place for the hook to catch

Trouble Shooting
SEAM PROBLEMS

Seam Pucker
Grinning
Skipped Stitches
Broken Needle Threads
Broken Bobbin Threads
Needle Damage on Fabric
Seam Slippage

Trouble Shooting
NEEDLE THREAD BREAKAGE

Tight tension
Trapping at package base
Snarling before tension disc
Poor needle choice
If eye is too small, there will be increased
friction

Excessive heat
Poor quality thread

Trouble Shooting
SEAM PROBLEMS

Seam Pucker
Grinning
Skipped Stitches
Broken Needle Threads
Broken Bobbin Threads
Needle Damage on Fabric
Seam Slippage

Trouble Shooting
BOBBIN/LOOPER THREAD BREAKAGE

Tight tension
Badly wound bobbin
Incorrect fit of bobbin case
Trapping at package base (for loopers)

Trouble Shooting
SEAM PROBLEMS

Seam Pucker
Grinning
Skipped Stitches
Broken Needle Threads
Broken Bobbin Threads
Needle Damage on Fabric
Seam Slippage

Trouble Shooting
NEEDLE DAMAGE
Incorrect needle/thread choice
Damaged needle

Trouble Shooting
SEAM PROBLEMS

Seam Pucker
Grinning
Skipped Stitches
Broken Needle Threads
Broken Bobbin Threads
Needle Damage on Fabric
Seam Slippage

Trouble Shooting
SEAM SLIPPAGE
Problem is with the fabric not the stitch
Low yarn count, and continuous filament yarns
that dont grip each other well are to blame
Very minimal improvement can be achieved
through increasing seam allowance, adding
topstitching, or changing to a lapped felled seam
When possible, seams can be fused
Best option Change fabric

BY MACKENZIE WALTON
MARCH 2012

THE END