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Oceanography
Dynamic Oceanography: Waves
Overview
* Waves transmit energy, not water mass, across the oceans
surface.
* Waves are classified by several characteristics.
* The behavior of a wave depends on the relation between the
waves size and the depth of water through which it is moving.
* Wind waves form when energy is transferred from wind to water.
* Waves can change direction by refraction and diffraction, can
interfere with one another, and reflect from solid objects.
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Properties of Ocean Waves
Ocean Waves
Classifying Waves
Ocean Waves
Orbital waves are waves in which the particles of water move in
closed circles as the wave passes.
Progressive waves are waves of moving energy in which the wave
form moves in one direction along the surface (or junction) of the
transmission medium. Orbital waves are a type of progressive wave
because the waveform moves forward
Wave Motions
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Ocean Waves
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Wave Motions
There are three types of waves defined by water depth: Deepwater wave, Intermediate-water wave, and Shallow-water wave.
Celerity is the velocity of the wave form, not the water.
C = L/T
The celerity of a group of waves all traveling at the same speed
in the same direction is less than the speed of the waves within
the group.
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Wind Waves
Wind waves are gravity waves formed by the transfer of wind energy
into water. Wind forces convert capillary waves to wind waves.
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Standing Waves
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Internal Waves
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