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Dye classification
Dyeing processes
Daniel 2004
Introduction to Coloration & Finishing
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Classification of Dyes
No single class of dye can dye all fibres.
A specific class of dye can only be
applied to a given type of textile fibre.
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Classification of dyes
Dye
Class
Direct
General
Main
description
application
Simple application; Mainly used
cheap; complete
for cellulosic
colour range;
fibres; can
moderate colour
also be
fastness but can
applied on
be improved by
rayon, silk &
after-treatment
wool.
with copper salts &
cationic
Introduction
to Coloration & Finishing
fixing
agents.
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DIRECT DYES
Direct dyes for Cotton, Viscose, Silk & Nylon
Easy to dye - require only cooking salt & very
hot to boiling water.
Dyes have a good light fastness but only
moderate wash fastness .
It is possible to improve on wash fastness by
after-treatment of dyed article with dye-fixing
agent.
These dyes are principally used for not so
expansive products or product with fewer
washes such as T-shirts, curtains & theatre
productions.
Introduction to Coloration & Finishing
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DIRECT DYES
Yellow
Pink
Brown
Turquoise
Orange
Red
Violet
Black
Fushia
Grey
Green
Forrest
Green
Scarlet
Blue
Wine
China Blue
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Classification of dyes
Main
Dye
General description
applicati
Class
on
Azoic
Complicated application; Mainly
(Naphthol limited colour range (red, applied on
orange, navy among the cellulosic
)
best); bright shade at
fibres,
moderate cost; generally especially
good wet fastness but
on brilliant
moderate to poor dry
red shade.
cleaning & rubbing
fastness; also called
naphthol dye due to the
to Coloration & Finishing
use ofIntroduction
naphthol,
or ice
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Coupling
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AZOIC DYES
The word 'Azoic' is the distinguishing name
given to insoluble azo dyes that are not applied
directly as dyes, but are actually produced
within the fibre itself.
This is done with impregnating the fibre with
one component of the dye, followed by
treatment in another component, thus forming
the dye within the fibre.
O
HO
C NH
NH2
CH3
NO 2
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AZOIC DYES
The formation of this insoluble dye within
the fabric makes it very fast to washing.
The deposition of the dye on the surface
of the fibre produces poor rub fastness,
but once the loose dye is removed by
boiling the fabric in soap, the dyeing
becomes one of the fastest available.
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AZOIC DYES
Normally it is dyed in cold for all natural fibers
Naphtol dyes are not sold in the form of a
"finished dye" but in form of their components
(Insoluble azo base & fast colour coupling
compound) which combine on the fibre to
produce a water insoluble azo dye of
exceptional fastness properties.
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The
following chart of basic range shows only a very limited number of colours13
that can be obtained by using combinations of Naphtol & Diazo.
DIAZO SALT
NAPHTOL
D or AS
BO
BT
GR
ORANGE GC
CHROME
YELLOW
ORANGE
RED ORANGE
PALE
BROWN
APRICOT
RED RC
CADMIUM
YELLOW
BRILLIANT RED
DEEP RED
CRIMSON
CRIMSON
LAKE
DARK
BROWN
GREEN
RED B
YELLOW
OCHRE
BORDEAUX GP
REDDISH
YELLOW
CLARET
BORDEAUX
VIOLET B
CHROME
YELLOW
VIOLET
DARK VIOLET
BLUE BB OR 3B
GOLDEN
YELLOW
BLUE
NAVY BLUE
GREEN BB
RED RUST
BLUE GREEN
DARK GREEN
LEAF GREEN
BLUE GREEN
GREEN GT
BLACK B
BLACK
BLACK
BLACK
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Classification of dyes
Dye
Clas General description
s
Vat
Difficult to apply (requires
reduction treatment to make
soluble in water & oxidation
to resume insoluble state
after dyeing); most
expensive;
incomplete colour range
(strong in blue & green but
weak in brilliant red); good all
round fastness except indigo
Introduction to Coloration & Finishing
& sulphurised
vat species;
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Main
application
Commonly
used for
high quality
cotton
goods, e.g.
towel;
specially
used in the
dyeing of
denim
fabric.
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VAT DYES
INDIGO, probably the oldest dye
known to man, is one of the most
important members of this group.
Natural indigo extracted from the
plant 'Indigofera tinctorie' was
used by the Egyptians in 200 BC.
The first synthetic indigo was
introduced to the textile trade in
1897 & had the effect of
completely replacing the natural
product.
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VAT DYES
Although the vat dyes may be divided into 3
chemical groups, they are similar in that they are
insoluble in water & become water soluble
when reduced in the presence of an alkali.
After dyeing, the fabric is oxidized & the dye
again becomes water insoluble.
Because of the time consuming & costly
procedure in reducing vat dye into a watersoluble complex, dye manufacturers have
produced a stabilized water-soluble vat dye.
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VAT DYES
This dye can be applied to
cotton & viscose rayon by
the methods used by
applying direct cotton
dyes.
After the dyeing, a simple
treatment restores the vat
dye to its normal insoluble
state.
Solubilized vat dyes have
an affinity for cellulose &
Introduction to Coloration & Finishing
animal fibres.
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VAT DYES
When the ultimate in wash & boil fastness
is required.
Also used to dye over fibre reactive dyes for
multi-layered dyeing.
YELLOW
ORANGE
RED
BLUE
VIOLET
GREEN
OLIVE B
BROWN
NAVY
BLACK
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Dye
Class
Sulphur
Classification of dyes
General description
Difficult to apply
(application similar to
vat dyes); cheap
particularly for dark
shade; incomplete
black, navy, khaki &
colour range (strong in
brown but no bright
shade); poor washing &
rubbing fastness &
sensitive to chlorine;
Introduction to Coloration & Finishing
may cause fabric
Main
application
Mostly used
for heavy
cellulosic
goods in dark
shades.
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SULPHUR DYES
The first Sulphur dye was discovered in France
in 1873, & further work done by Raymond Videl
enabled the manufacture of 'Videl black".
Its outstanding fastness to light, washing &
boiling far surpassed any cotton black known at
that time.
The general disadvantage of the Sulphur dyes
that they produce dull shades & lack a red.
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SULPHUR DYES
The main advantage lays in their
cheapness, ease of application & good
wash-fastness.
In their normal state, Sulphur dyes are
insoluble in water but are readily soluble in
the solution of Sodium Sulphide.
In this form they have high affinity to the
all cellulose fibres.
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Sulphur black.
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Classification of dyes
Dye
General
Class
description
Reactive Easy application;
moderate price;
complete colour
range; good
fastness due to
direct reaction with
fibres.
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Main application
Commonly used
for all cellulosic
goods especially in
knitted fabric
batchwise dyeing;
selective dyes can
also be applied on
wool, silk & rayon;
increasingly used
in printing due to
Introduction to Coloration & Finishing
good fastness.
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REACTIVE DYES
This is an entirely class of dye introduced
to the market in 1956.
They react chemically with the fibre being
dyed & if correctly applied, cannot be
removed by washing or boiling.
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REACTIVE DYES
The main feature of the
dyestuff is its low affinity
to cellulose; therefore
large amounts of salt are
required to force its
deposition on he fabric.
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REACTIVE DYES
After this has been
achieved, addition of alkali
causes the deposited dyes
to react with the fibre.
Only a successfully
concluded reaction
guarantees a fast dyeing.
Basically there are two
types of reactive dyes: the
cold dyeing & hot dyeing
types.
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Yellow 2GL
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REACTIVE DYES
Cold water fibre
reactive dyes, suitable
for dyeing on cotton,
silk, jute, rayon &
hessian.
Cannot be used on
synthetics or fabric
that has been coated
with resin or drip-dry
finish.
Black
B
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Finishing
(blue base)
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Classification of dyes
Dye
Class
General
description
Main
application
Acid
Easy application;
complete colour
range with very
good bright
shades; fastness
properties may
vary among
individual dyes.
Commonly
used for
wool, silk &
nylon.
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ACID DYES
These dyes comprise a large number of dyes used
for the dyeing of wool, silk & nylon.
They vary considerably in their basic chemical
structure, but have one common feature - they dye
from an acid dye bath.
All acid dyes can be grouped in 3 sub groups:
a. Level dyeing acid dyes
b. Acid milling dyes
c. Pre-metalized dyes
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ACID DYES
a. Level dyeing acid dyes:
These dyes produce bright dyeing.
The main feature is their good leveling
properties.
They are dyed from a dye bath containing
strong acids (Sulphuric or Formic acid).
These dyes exhibit low wash & light
fastness.
Introduction to Coloration & Finishing
2004
ACID DYES
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ACID DYES
c. Pre-metalized dyes
These dyes represent an extension of
mordant dyes.
The metal component being already
incorporated in the dye during manufacturing
process.
Very good light fastness even in pale shades
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Classification of dyes
Dye
General description
Class
MetalRelatively difficult to
complex apply; expensive;
complete colour range
but duller shade than
acid dyes; good
fastness due to high
molecular size & metal
complex structure.
Introduction to Coloration & Finishing
Main
application
Mainly used
for wool &
Nylon.
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Classification of dyes
Dye
Class
Chrome
Mordant
General
description
Complicated
application;
expensive;
complete
colour range but
very dull shade;
good all round
fastness.
Main
application
Mainly used
for wool
products
especially for
the end use of
carpet.
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Classification of dyes
Main
Dye
General description
applicatio
Class
n
Disperse Require skill in application Mostly used
(either by carrier or under for
high temperature);
polyester
moderate price; complete & acetate;
colour range; limited
can also be
solubility in water
applied on
(normally dispersed in
nylon &
water for application); good Acrylic.
fastness
Introduction to Coloration & Finishing
after reduction
clearing
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DISPERSE DYES
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Classification of dyes
Dye
Class
Basic
(Cationi
c)
General description
Careful application
required to prevent
unlevel dyeing &
adverse effect in handfeel; complete colour
range with very good
brilliant shades.
Introduction to Coloration & Finishing
Main
application
Mainly used
for acrylic.
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Cationic dyes
Cationic dyes for dyeing acrylic (Acrilan, Courtelle, Orlon)
paper, wood & dried flowers.
Also used for dyeing silk & silk flowers in very brilliant
colours.
YELLOW
BLUE
ORANGE
TURQUOISE
RED
VIOLET
PINK
GREEN
RHODAMINE
BLACK
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Zeneca
Miles
BASF
DyStar
Bayer
DyStar
Sumitomo
Hoechst
Sodyeco
Sandoz
Sandoz
Ciba + Geigy
Clariant
Ciba-Geigy
Ciba
Yorkshire
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Colour Formulation
The choice of a specific colour for a particular
material is the responsibility of the textile designer
or colourist who perceives the colour to be in
conformity with the fashion requirement.
It is the job of the textile dyer to match the
designer s colour with the proper dyes or pigments
as well as to meet the colour fastness requirements
for the specific end-use of the material.
In brief,the designer s role is part of the world of
artistry & creativity, while the dyer s role is in the
world of science & technology.
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Colour
Formulation
Matching of colour shades
by the dyer requires the
skilful blending &
formulation of different
dyes & pigments, as well
as an understanding of
the nature of fibres & the
numerous chemicals
needed to carry the
dyeing process.
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Colour
Formulati
on
Colour match recipes are first developed on a
small laboratory basis.
Once the dyer has formulated a colour match &
achieved a satisfactory sampling (often known
as the lab-dip), this becomes the standard
which all future dye lots or batches must follow.
Introduction to Coloration & Finishing
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Colour
Formulation
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Colour Fastness
A good dye must withstand the subsequent
treatment (e.g. laundering, dry cleaning, etc.)
or environmental wearing (e.g.rubbing,light
exposure, etc.).
The degree to which a dyed material can
withstand such treatments & wearing is called
colour fastness.
No dye or pigment is fast in all colour fastness.
Only a careful selection & formulation of dyes
& auxiliaries can result in a desirable dyeing, &
conform with the colour fastness requirements.
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Application of
Pigments
Popular especially in printing.
Advantages :
easy to apply with good shade matching
from lot to lot;
full colour range; &
can be applied on all textile fibres & their
blends.
Introduction to Coloration & Finishing