Fragrances, Flavors and

Food Additives

What is fragrances?

Manufacturing of perfume, cologen and toilet

water are collectively known as fragrances.

Perfume?

Perfume takes its name from Latin word

perfumare, means to fill with smoke

Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils

and aroma compounds, fixatives, and solvents
used to give the human body, objects, and
living spaces a pleasant smell.

CLASSIFICATION

Basic classification of perfume is

done using 3 main categories:

The concentration/dilution level of

the essential oils
The family to which it belongs
The notes of the scent

Concentration / Dilution:

Since essential oils are by nature

incredibly concentrated, the mixture
of essential oils is diluted with
alcohol and/or with other neutral
odor sources like water, coconut oil,
wax or extracts of jojoba.
This is also done to cut the intensity
of the scent.

THE SOURCE

The Origin/Source of Essential

Oils
Plants, animals and synthetic
aromatic compounds make up the
source ingredients for the perfume
industry.

Plants

Main source of aromatic compounds in perfume

production, primarily because of their relative
ease of accessibility, and the great variety of
odors among them.

The source of aromatic compounds can come

from different parts of the plants.
Flowers like the rose and jasmine,
Resin like frankincense, myrrh and pine,
Bulbs like those of the iris plant,
Bark like cinnamon,
Seeds like Tonka bean, coriander, anise and
others,

Synthetic compounds

The use of synthetic aromatic ingredients

for perfume production goes back as far as
the end of the 19th century. The progress
made in the research of organic chemistry
made it possible to develop new aromatic
compounds that replaced, in many cases,
the more expensive and rare natural
aromatic sources, thus, allowing the
manufacture of perfume for more
reasonable prices.

Fruits

Many fruits that bring out tempting

odors,
such
as
cherries
and
strawberries, are surprisingly not
used in the production of perfumes.
On the other hand, the leaves and
peel of the fruit of citrus plants are
often used in the perfume industry.

Concentration levels

Perfume oil is necessarily diluted with a

solvent because undiluted oils (natural or
synthetic) contain high concentrations of
volatile components that will likely result in
allergic reactions and possibly injury when
applied directly to skin or clothing.

Three Part Smell:

You smell top/head notes within the
first 15 minutes of applying. These
chemicals first evaporate off your
skin. Ex: lemon, mint
Heart/middle notes appear upto 3 to
4 hours. The chemicals creating these
smells evaporate more slowly from
your skin. Ex: rose, jasmine
Base notes stick stubbornly to your
skin. You smell them within 5 to 8
hours of application. Ex: Musky,
watery, mossy and woody chemicals.

Fine Fragrance Design

Give initial impact of fragrance
Provide freshness
Typically citrus, green notes

Give fragrance its character

and depth
Typically spicy, leather, floral

Fragrance foundation
Substantivity
Typically amber, musk

TOP NOTE

Give initial impact of fragrance

Provide freshness
Typically citrus, green notes

MIDDLE NOTE

BACK (BASE) NOTE

Lasts 3-4 hours on skin

Lasts >4 hours

Visualizing a Fragrance

Visualizing a Fragrance
Seduction/Freshness

BACK (BASE) NOTE

Cost

Long lasting
memory

MIDDLE NOTE

Volatility

Character

TOP NOTE

Formulation

The precise formulas of commercial perfumes

are kept secret. Even if they were widely
published, they would be dominated by such
complex chemical procedures and ingredients
that they would be of little use in providing a
useful description of the experience of a scent.

Creation of acceptable
fragrances

It require professional knowledge

Use of available raw materials, both natural
and synthetic
Use of a variety of new types of products
requiring fragrances
Innovations in packing, e.g., aerosol sprays,
perfume powders, cream sachets, gels, lotions,
and sticks

Perfume

A perfume is defined as any mixture of

pleasantly odorous incorporated in suitable
vehicle.
The finest modern perfumes are neither wholly
synthetics nor completely natural

to reduce the price, and

to introduce fragrances into the enchanting gamut
at present available

Constituents of perfumes

Constituents of perfumes are:

vehicles or solvents
the fixatives, and
odoriferous elements

Vehicles

Solvents used for blending and holding

perfume materials

e.g., ethyl alcohol and water at different ratios

depend on solubility of the oils employed

It is volatile nature and helps to project the

sent it carries
It is fairly inert to solute and not too irritating
to human skin

Fixatives

Fixatives may be defined as substances of

lower volatility of the perfume oils, which
retard and even up the rate of evaporation of
the various odorous constituents

animal secretions
resinous products
essential oils, and
synthetic chemicals

Odorous substances

Essential oils

The essential oils may be defined as volatile,

odoriferous oils of vegetable origin

Essential oils

Essential oils may be defined as volatile,

odoriferous oils of vegetable origin.

Essential oils are probably connected with

metabolism, fertilization, or protection from
enemies. It found in buds, flowers, leaves,
bark, stems, fruits, seeds, wood, roots and
rhizomes.
In some trees in oleoresinous exudates.

Essential oils

Essential oils are insoluble in water and

soluble in organic solvents, although enough
of the oil may dissolve in water to give an
intense odor to the solution, e.g., rose water or
orange flavor water.

Essential oils
The compounds occuring in essential oils are
1.
2.

3.

4.
5.
6.

7.
8.
9.
10.

Esters mainly of benzoic, salicylic, acetic and cinnamic acids

Alcohols Linalool, geraniol, citronellol, terpinol, menthol,
borneol
Aldehydes citral, citronellol, benzaldehyde, cinnamaldehyde,
vanillin
Acids benzoic, cinnamic, myristic, isovaleric in the free state
Phenols eugenol, thymol, carvacrol
Ketones carvone, menthone, pulegone, irone, camphor, methyl
nonyl ketone, methyl heptenine
Esters cineole, internal ether (eucalyptole), anethole, safrole
Lactones coumarin
Terpenes camphene, pinene, limonene, phellandrene, cedrene
Hydrocarbons cymene, styrene (phenylethylene)

FLAVORS AND FRAGRANCES

H3C

O
C

CH3
O CH2 CH2 CH CH3

H3C

O
C

O-CH2(CH2)6CH3

H3C

O
C

O-CH2CH2CH3

Isoamyl acetate

Octyl acetate

Propyl acetate

Banana
(Alarm pheromone of honeybee)

Oranges

Pear

CH3CH2

O
C

CH3
O CH2CH CH3

CH3CH2CH2

O
C

O CH2CH3

CH3CH2CH2

O
C

H3C

O
C

CH3
O-CH2CH C CH3

Isopentenyl acetate
"Juicy Fruit"

O CH3

H3C

O
C

O-CH2

Isobutyl propionate

Ethyl butyrate

Methyl butyrate

Benzyl acetate

Rum

Pineapple

Apple

Peach

O
C

OCH3

OH

CH2

C
O

OCH2CH3

Methyl Salicylate

Ethyl phenylacetate

Oil of Wintergreen

Honey

Types of perfumery
ingredients
Odorants
Concretes
Absolutes
Tinctures
Distilled oils
Expressed Oils

Fixatives

Extenders

Extraction process

Expression
Distillation
Extraction with volatile solvents
Enfleurage
Maceration
Microwave extraction
Supercritical solvent extraction

Conventional Extraction
Problems
High Temperature
Solvent contamination, reduces product
quality
Inflammability or explosion risk
Time, solvent, energy consuming
Composition varies with solvent & extraction
method

Super Critical Fluid Extraction

Solvent Free
Thermal degradation free
Energy saving
Simple process

Question: Why is one

method preferred over
another?
1. Cost

2. Quality of product
3. Availability of product

Blending
Once the perfume oils are collected, they are
ready to be blended together according to a
formula determined by a master in the field,
known as a "nose.
After the scent has been created, it is mixed
with alcohol. The amount of alcohol in a scent
can vary greatly. Most full perfumes are made
of about 10-20% perfume oils dissolved in
alcohol and a trace of water.

Typical Consumer Products

are difficult to perfume

For Fine Fragrances, the perfumer has available 4000+

ingredients and a simple solvent base (alcohol).

For Functional Perfumery, the perfumer has only <400

ingredients depending on the type of base (pH, solvent, colour,
etc).
Because;
Many ingredients are not stable in acid or alkaline bases
Many ingredients are broken down by bleach
Many ingredients will react with the base to cause base
instability (colour, rheology, phase separation)
and
Limitations of product production process
Limitations of packaging used
Limitations of way the product is used

Aging

Fine perfume is often aged for several months

or even years after it is blended. Following
this, a "nose" will once again test the perfume
to ensure that the correct scent has been
achieved

Level of Fragrance
Concentration
Highest

Perfume

Eau de Parfum

Cologne

Eau de Toilette

Mists/Scented body products

Lowest

Selection by a Consumer

A consumer specially a women can choose a fragrance

based on:
Their mood
An occasion (wedding, party, business meeting)

The three most common feelings women want to

get from their fragrance are:
Confidence
Happiness
Femininity

Food Additives

What are food additives?

Any substance added to food that changes its

characteristics

"any substance the intended use which results or may

reasonably be expected to result-directly or indirectly-in
its becoming a component or otherwise affecting the
characteristics of any food."

These are used in the production, processing,

treatment, packaging, transportation or storage of
food.

Additives Are Used To:

1.
2.
3.
4.

5.

Maintain product consistency

Improve or maintain nutritional value
Maintain palatability and wholesomeness
Provide leavening or control
acidity/alkalinity
Enhance flavor or bring out a desired color

Benefits of Additives
Safer and More Nutritious Foods
Antimicrobials = prevent food poisoning from
various bacteria and molds
Antioxidants = prevent the development of
off-flavors, production of potentially toxic
products, and maintain nutritional value of
vitamins and lipids
Vitamins = prevent nutritional deficiencies

Benefits of Additives

Greater Choice of Foods

Increased development in convenience

foods, snack foods, low-calorie foods,
exotic foods, and a variety of food
substitutes

Benefits of Additives

Lower-Priced Foods

Total removal of additives would result in

higher prices

Food Additives
Food additives can be divided into several groups,
although there is some overlap between them.
Acids

Food acids are added to make flavors "sharper", and also

act as preservatives and antioxidants. Common food acids
include vinegar, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid,
fumaric acid, lactic acid.

Antioxidants

Antioxidants such as vitamin C act as preservatives by

inhibiting the effects of oxygen on food, and can be
beneficial to health.

Food Additives

Food coloring

Colorings are added to food to replace colors lost

during preparation, or to make food look more
attractive.

Flavors

Flavors are additives that give food a particular

taste or smell, and may be derived from natural
ingredients or created artificially.

Food Additives

Preservatives

Preservatives prevent or inhibit spoilage of food

due to fungi, bacteria and other microorganisms.

Sweeteners

Sweeteners are added to foods for flavoring.

Sweeteners other than sugar are added to keep the
food energy (calories) low, or because they have
beneficial effects for diabetes mellitus and tooth
decay and diarrhea.

THANK YOU