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Digital Strategies Serve All Aspects of Operations in Global Beauty March 2015

Digital Strategies Serve All Aspects of Operations in Global Beauty

March 2015

Introduction Digital Market Space In Beauty Strategy Growth Pillars Growth Platforms Retail Curation Future Impacts

Introduction

Digital Market Space In Beauty

Strategy Growth Pillars Growth Platforms Retail Curation Future Impacts

Introduction

Scope

Disclaimer

ll values expressed in this report are in US dollar terms, using a fixed exchange rate (2014).

014 figures are based on part-year estimates.

ll forecast data are expressed in constant terms; inflationary effects are discounted. Conversely, all historical data are expressed in current terms; inflationary effects are taken into account.

Introduction Scope Disclaimer ll values expressed in this report are in US dollar terms, using a© Euromonitor International Beauty & Personal Care: Digital Strategies Serve All Aspects of Operations in Global Beauty PASSPORT 3 " id="pdf-obj-2-14" src="pdf-obj-2-14.jpg">

Much of the information in this briefing is of a statistical nature and, while every attempt has been made to ensure accuracy and reliability, Euromonitor International cannot be held responsible for omissions or errors. Figures in tables and analyses are calculated from unrounded data and may not sum. Analyses found in the briefings may not totally reflect the companies’ opinions, reader discretion is advised.

Beauty companies have a growing focus and rising investments into developing their digital strategies and online presence. The objective of these strategies does not only include online sales but also to build strong brand image, raise brand recognition, analyse consumer habits, drive innovation and also to offer a competitive pricing platform. There are good growth prospects in the digital space but it is not without challenges, such as the intense competition in a fragmented market space.

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Introduction

Key finding

Beauty internet retailing doubles in value in five years

Albeit still a small channel, it has more than doubled in value between 2009 and 2014, reaching US$25.2 billion. Industry trends, such as customisation or demand for niche beauty and technological developments have been driving growth in this channel.

Digital market space in beauty expands most in Asia

Internet retailing has reached its highest penetration of almost 8% in Asia Pacific, and, given the region’s major appetite for technological innovations, this trend is likely to continue.

Mobile internet subscriptions enable growth of beauty m-commerce

With growth in mobile-based internet retailing especially dynamic in markets such as China and Africa, retailers need to optimise their sales platforms to handheld devices.

Customisation through consumer engagement

Beauty product customisation is a growing trend to watch in global beauty and rising number of virtual “try on” and skin analysis sites and apps, eg L’Oréal’s Make-up Genius or SkinBetter, aim to tap into it.

Growing number of digital platforms for online beauty sales

Digital platforms for beauty product online sales are growing in numbers and scale, these include multi-channel retailers, e-tailers, social media sites, mobile apps, direct sellers and beauty box subscription services.

Rising challenge from online-only beauty brands

Online-only brands, such as Glossier, with a strong story or emotive associations engage more closely with consumers which can help them differentiate themselves from competition.

Weighing up opportunities and challenges of beauty retail curation

Peer-to-peer curation is an effective and relatively cost-efficient marketing tool, however, consumer-generated content needs to be managed carefully.

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Introduction Digital Market Space In Beauty Strategy Growth Pillars Growth Platforms Retail Curation Future Impacts

Introduction

Digital Market Space In Beauty

Strategy Growth Pillars Growth Platforms Retail Curation Future Impacts

Digital Market Space In Beauty

Internet retailing still a relative small channel in BPC

nternet retailing has expanded rapidly across many consumer goods industries, at the fastest rate in consumer appliances and it reached the highest value in apparel and footwear. The channel in beauty and personal care is still relative underdeveloped but companies have been making significant investments into expanding their digital footprint. There are a number of focus points for these initiatives ranging from brand building to consumer engagement to skin analysis, and most importantly, online retail platforms, to capture new sales.

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Digital Market Space In Beauty

Beauty internet retailing doubles in value in five years

lbeit still a small channel, it has more than doubled in value between 2009 and 2014, reaching US$25.2 billion. A number of industry trends and technological developments have been driving growth in this channel, including the growing ratio of global population using the internet. Internet users have reached 37% of the global population but this leaves room for growth, especially in the Middle East and Africa where the share of the population using the internet stands at 22% or in the Asia Pacific with 31%. These ratios as expected to grow steadily up to 2019, with the global level reaching 44%.

ndustry trends within beauty are also forecast to drive growth of e-commerce, including the growing demand
ndustry trends within beauty are also forecast to drive growth of e-commerce, including the growing demand
for personalised beauty product mixes, strong performance of niche categories and product lines and a
consumer-curated online retail environment.
© Euromonitor International
Beauty & Personal Care: Digital Strategies Serve All Aspects of Operations in Global Beauty
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Digital Market Space In Beauty

Category differences at play for selling beauty products online

he strongest penetration of beauty internet retailing is in categories where there is strong demand for product personalisation to address consumers’ individual beauty concerns and tastes. Skin care, colour cosmetics and fragrances are most aligned with personalisation trends in global beauty, but hair care and oral care offer increasing future customisation potential and expansion of online retail due to growing product diversity and the adoption of a routine-based approach.

he internet is shifting from being a transactional platform to an experimental one, where consumers can interact with brands and each other. Brands’ digital positioning must be aligned with the customised features and benefits they offer to their target consumer groups, eg “pharma” beauty brands on skin analysis sites and apps, mass- priced products listed on apps largely used by a young audience or premium brands on luxury retailers’ sites.

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Digital Market Space In Beauty

Demand for personal service in a self-service environment

uromonitor International survey data, collected in 2014, on retail channel preferences show that 42% of respondents choose the availability of product information, comparison and reviews as one of the most important online shopping motivations. However, best price remains top of the list.

rands’ own websites have long been offering information but do not always offer, third party reviews, a platform for personalised service, for engagement with the brand and other consumers or allow consumer-generated content.

nline Shopping Motivations
nline Shopping Motivations

t has become more easily available online to upload a picture or fill in a short questionnaire about individual skin or hair types, sun care, hair care or cleansing routines and learn about products and benefits most suitable for an individual’s needs. Consumers’ perceptions of the analysis and product recommendations generated online tend to be more positive than an advice given by apparently less knowledgeable retail staff in traditional beauty outlets.

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Digital Market Space In Beauty

Frequency of online activities shows a more engaged consumer

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uromonitor International’s survey of online activities shows how consumers become more engaged with brands and companies.

hile the frequency of buying something online remained virtually the same at 15% between 2011 and 2013, micro-blogging, visits to price comparison sites, and uploading/sharing photos have become more frequent.

acilitating these platforms for multi-directional communication between brands and consumers and consumers among themselves can become an effective digital tool.

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Digital Market Space In Beauty

Digital market space in beauty expands most in Asia

eauty market development in many emerging markets is strongly linked to retail network expansion and the creation of new and novel retail platforms to enhance product penetration. Although internet retailing is still a relatively small channel for beauty products, it has reached its highest penetration of almost 8% in Asia Pacific, and, given the region’s major appetite for technological innovations, this trend is likely to continue.

n other emerging regions, especially the Middle East and Africa and Latin America, internet retailing remains a minor channel. Albeit from a small base, internet retailing in the Middle East and Africa is expected to post a CAGR in excess of 30% over 2014-2019, and near 11% CAGR in Latin America. Government investments in the development of national digital strategies, eg in Mexico, will drive further growth of online retail channels over the forecast period.

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Digital Market Space In Beauty

Asian expansion driven by 20-fold growth in China

he strong expansion of internet retailing in Asia Pacific is largely driven by China, where, in 2014, nearly 16% of beauty sales was transacted online. Convenient home delivery services, easy comparisons of products and competitive pricing, as well as manufacturers’ active engagement in this emerging channel, have underpinned the robust growth. For example, China’s flagship online retailer, Alibaba Group, enhanced its market value share from 35% in 2010 to 43% by 2014.

he internet retailing channel for beauty products has gained significant presence in markets such as India, Pakistan and Kazakhstan. In these markets the combination of lower levels of connectivity and less developed delivery infrastructure limits large- scale expansion of the channel.

istribution of beauty products has seen a shift to more self-service environments. This is partly the result of consumers’ better access to information about products through the internet before making purchases.

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Digital Market Space In Beauty

China has the highest frequency of online beauty buys

Frequency of Beauty and Personal Care Items Online by Country 2013

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uromonitor International’s Technology survey about online purchases shows that China has the highest frequency of beauty product purchases online. However, the almost daily or weekly frequency of online purchases of beauty products is still highest in India. Among the nine core beauty markets, lowest penetration of online transactions for beauty products is in Japan.

libaba, the beneficiary of strong Chinese interest in e-commerce

espite Alibaba’s undisputed leadership within e-commerce in China, there is still significant potential for expansion, given the relatively low internet penetration in the country. The company states that, as of 31 December 2013, there were 231 million active Alibaba portal users, but with a target population of 1.4 billion people, the company aims to expand its reach further among current and future internet users.

-commerce will be instrumental in reaching out to consumers globally who at present cannot access the internet. M-commerce in China is still small and it is expected to see particularly rapid growth in the future.

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Digital Market Space In Beauty

Mobile internet subscriptions enable growth of beauty m-commerce

 

O

ver 2009-2014, internet retailing has become an established channel for beauty products in emerging countries, such as India, Pakistan and Kazakhstan, largely aided by the rapid growth in internet-enabled mobile devices.

 

T

his trend is expected to continue, driven by rising internet penetration and growing possession of digital devices, allowing more consumers to go online. Consumer adoption of online payment options, greater trust in web transactions and improved postal logistics will be additional factors behind beauty e-commerce uptake. The integration of social media into e-commerce solutions and growing global adoption of online payment methods (e-currencies, digital wallets, bank cards) are key aspects of continued e-commerce expansion. As more countries move from a cash-on-delivery model to online payments, the sector will see greater volumes of sales.

 

W

ith growth in mobile-based internet retail especially dynamic, retailers need to optimise their sales platforms to handheld devices.

© Euromonitor International Beauty & Personal Care: Digital Strategies Serve All Aspects of Operations in Global
© Euromonitor International
Beauty & Personal Care: Digital Strategies Serve All Aspects of Operations in Global Beauty
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Digital Market Space In Beauty

Growth prospects in ownership of internet-enabled devices

n addition to the growing connectivity in emerging markets the growth in ownership of internet-enabled computer devices, especially tablets and other portable computers, expected to have further positive impact on beauty products internet retailing.

he strongest growth in internet retailing in Asia was supported by the high volume of devices in retail in the region and still strong 7% CAGR projected up to 2018.

he ongoing economic instability in Eastern Europe constrains growth in the short to medium term while in many of the large African markets further infrastructural developments are required to underpin growth of e- commerce, including the development of traditional retail, transport and delivery services.

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Digital Market Space In Beauty

Top global internet merchants selling beauty products

 

I

nternet retailing is strongly dominated by long-established, global conglomerates, Amazon, Alibaba and eBay, the three combined command over one quarter of the global internet retailing market space. Amazon enhanced its focus on beauty products with the launch of Amazon Luxury Beauty in October 2013, among brands headlining the launch were Nars, Burberry and L’Occitane.

 

S

ephora, the largest beauty product retailer in the world, still does not feature among the top 10 largest internet retailers but has already built up a considerable scale of online operations. In response to Amazon’s Luxury Beauty launch it has introduced Sephora Flash to match Amazon Prime’s next day delivery offering for an annual fee to members of this scheme. However, Amazon’s entry to premium beauty intensified competition in beauty e-commerce.

T

echnological developments influence the market environment beauty companies operate in and the industry is seeing a wide range of new approaches to how companies aim to engage with consumers, build brand image and generate new sales. Companies are frequently launching new digital initiatives but so far it is too early to see a significant direct impact on their revenues.

© Euromonitor International Beauty & Personal Care: Digital Strategies Serve All Aspects of Operations in Global
© Euromonitor International
Beauty & Personal Care: Digital Strategies Serve All Aspects of Operations in Global Beauty
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Digital Market Space In Beauty

Selling to an informed consumer

 

E

uromonitor International survey data, collected in 2014, on retail channel preferences showed that 42% of respondents choose the availability of product information, comparison and reviews as the most important online shopping motivation. Selling to an ever-more informed consumer base requires strong brand engagement and communication platforms.

 

B

rands’ online presence with their own marketing websites offering product information and/or the opportunity for online purchase have long been available. However, these do not always satisfy the growing demand for a platform for personalised service, for engagement with the brand and other consumers or allow access to consumer-generated content.

 

C

ompetitive pricing and convenience of shopping remain the most important online purchase motivations but given the nature of beauty and personal care products companies need to focus on customised solutions, creating virtual “try on” platforms and optimise upsell opportunities with complementary product ranges.

© Euromonitor International Beauty & Personal Care: Digital Strategies Serve All Aspects of Operations in Global
© Euromonitor International
Beauty & Personal Care: Digital Strategies Serve All Aspects of Operations in Global Beauty
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Introduction Digital Market Space In Beauty Strategy Growth Pillars Growth Platforms Retail Curation Future Impacts

Introduction Digital Market Space In Beauty

Strategy Growth Pillars

Growth Platforms Retail Curation Future Impacts

Strategy Growth Pillars

Four pillars to digital beauty strategies

© Euromonitor International Beauty & Personal Care: Digital Strategies Serve All Aspects of Operations in Global
© Euromonitor International
Beauty & Personal Care: Digital Strategies Serve All Aspects of Operations in Global Beauty
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Strategy Growth Pillars

Consumer engagement, image building

n July 2014, Estée Lauder launched The Esteé Edit blog site for a personalised shopping experience. Particularly in the premium beauty segments, building brand equity is a primary objective and consumers blogging and reviewing iconic brands on this site can be a powerful brand-building tool.

he initiative differs from other brand content as it resembles a magazine, with posts in beauty and non- beauty industries. The company’s research shows that consumers trust peer reviews on these sites as much as personal recommendations and user-generated content is becoming more prominent for many brands, as the speed of information and opinion sharing is increasing. The site also works as an online retail platform for the Estée Lauder product portfolio.

n addition to The Estée Edit site, the company has allocated resources to implement brand-enhancing strategies across all online activities, to increase access to consumers ahead of its competition. Currently, 16 of its brands have their own marketing website but the aim to increase interaction between the brand and consumers remains a key objective for the company.

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Strategy Growth Pillars

Engagement through third party bloggers/vloggers

eauty blogging and vlogging has become a powerful marketing tool for beauty brands. Through this channel brand owners are able to reach out to huge numbers of consumers at a relative low cost.

Creative collaboration

Vloggers aim to create a level of engagement, authenticity and empathy. However, for each brand the key is to find the right creative collaboration with the right vlogger.

ome well-established bloggers have followers in the millions, eg Michelle Phan’s blogs are viewed by some 7.5 million followers and these “fans” visiting her site represent a select consumer base that is easier to target with relevant product offerings for purchase.

n comparison to other high-profile marketing investments such as advertising during the Super Bowl game in the US. In 2015 it captured the attention of 100 million viewers and according to trade press the average charge for 30 seconds of airtime was US$3.8 million. In addition to the high price the audience is less selected by interest on beauty products.

lthough there is some consolidation among beauty bloggers, their “independent voice” more often gets questioned and their influence over consumers’ purchasing decisions can lessen over time, as more brands establish a presence in this marketing channel.

This relatively new marketing channel remains a good value investment to reach a wide consumer base.

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Strategy Growth Pillars

Timely digital marketing campaigns to build brand recognition

igital marketing is a large part of companies’ strategies. Investments in digital campaigns are rising to capture the attention of a target consumer base online and to build brand recognition and image.

nspired and well-timed marketing campaigns can travel the world and capture the attention of a global audience.

n February 2015, Revlon and Google collaborated to launch animated, shareable Valentine’s Day e-cards to capitalise on the emotive holiday globally. In this campaign consumers were able to create a personalised .GIF files, allowing them to choose their favourite Revlon Ultra HD Lipstick colour, upload an image of their Valentine and watch as a kiss is placed on his/her cheek. These files were consumer-generated digital content and sharable on any social media channels, Facebook, Instagram, Google+, Twitter and personal emails.

his product tie-in used Google technology to highlight a product in a fun way to a digitally-engaged consumer base, to raise awareness about the 20 shades range and its wax-free gel technology.

iven this campaign was tied to a one-day event, although it had a global reach it has only provided short-lived attention to the brand. Revlon would benefit from further digital initiatives for its colour cosmetics portfolio as its market value share has been steadily eroding since 2009.

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Strategy Growth Pillars

Key objectives of strong consumer engagement

onsumer engagement and brand building is an area of growing investments by beauty companies and a focus point for digital strategies.

echnological development allows companies to set up online platforms to interact with consumers, harvest feedback for a range of operational aspects from innovation to marketing to retail.

onsumer engagement techniques can contribute most to the identification of the right consumer base for products and concentrate marketing investments onto those groups most likely to make a purchase, eg the audience watching make- up tutorials on vloggers’ sites.

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Strategy Growth Pillars

Virtual “try on” tools target demand for customisation

 

B

eauty product customisation is a growing trend to watch in global beauty and rising number of virtual “try on” and skin analysis sites and apps aim to tap into it.

 

A

mong the challenges to develop online sales of beauty products is consumers’ need to try out products for style and/or efficacy. As opposed to other fmcg industries with highly developed online channels and cultures, such as apparel or appliances, in the majority of cases, beauty products are not returnable after opening, testing the items.

D igital technology, mirror and skin analysis apps, are aiming to bridge this gap with virtual “try on” and analysis platforms. There are as many, and even more, apps offering the same but slightly different solutions as many brands.

M

ost brands launch their own apps, among the most well publicised are L’Oréal Paris Makeup Genius, Lancôme Virtual Palette and Estée Lauders’ #QuarterLifeCrisis by Origins to be launched in February 2015.

stée Lauder’s Origins is going social with the pending launch of its Original Skin Renewal Serum. As the serum’s target consumer falls in the “millennial” age group, the company needed a digital tool with which to engage consumers.

he app offers product information, photo engagement and e-commerce. The product is intended to target quarter-life skin concerns such as rough texture, enlarged pores, stressed skin and flaws.

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Strategy Growth Pillars

Mono-brand versus multi-brand applications

ModiFace launches e-commerce

In addition to iconic beauty brands’ own virtual customisation apps a growing number of multi-brand platforms are also available.

Most recently, in February 2015 ModiFace launched a virtual make-up e-commerce platform with some 40 make-up and skin care partners participating, including L’Oréal, Cover Girl, Sephora, Inglot and Make Up For Ever.

The app focuses on multi-product looks by selling make-up products that work together and aim to convince consumers to buy “the look”, rather than individual items.

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Source: http://modiface.com/apps

Visualisation apps to replace beauty samples

Visualisation technologies aim to address one of the main challenges in the beauty market, offering consumers the opportunity to test/try products out before buying.

While free samples and retail testers have long been the industry’s answer to enable consumers to trial new product discoveries, virtual “try on” tools are slowly capturing shoppers with an alternative approach, appealing especially to always-connected “millennial” consumers.

A variety of apps appeal to diverse consumer groups. Product positioning on the right mobile platform is key to success, eg mass/ teen brands on apps targeting this age/income group.

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Strategy Growth Pillars

Skin analysis sites offer best opportunities to pharma brands

n October 2014, Allure magazine partnered with SkinBetter to launch a new app for skin analysis. The system works by analysing a photo of a consumer's skin to identify wrinkles, spots and redness and future problem areas. The app is available on www.skinbetter.com and www.allure.com and in the Apple App and Google Play stores.

onsumers need to upload a photo and answer a brief questionnaire about their skin. The photo is analysed using patented technology and the system provides customised product recommendations. Consumers will be able to shop by recommended product, skin concern, skin type, product type, or brand.

urrently the website features 19 US brands, largely pharma- positioned, such as eltaMD SkinCare, dr. brandt and SkinMedica.

iven demand for customisation is on the rise in the beauty industry, brands’ presence on these websites can reach a wide new consumer base in search of the perfect fit for their needs. L’Oréal for example has an extensive portfolio of pharma-positioned brands, including Vichy, La Roche-Posay, SkinCeuticals, Innéov, Roger&Gallet and Sanoflore, which could benefit from exposure via such apps.

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Strategy Growth Pillars

Brand positioning by suitable price platforms

onsumer segmentation online can be more accurate than through traditional retail. Certain apps and websites attract an audience with similar beauty preferences and more likely similar spending power.

rand positioning is key to attract the target consumer base for the products’ pricing.

or example, the myriad “mirror” apps are largely targeting the digitally most engaged teenage and young consumer base, the ideal price platform for, for example, mass colour cosmetic brands.

n April 2014, Zalora, Asia’s leading online fashion retailer, and Sephora announced a partnership to distribute Sephora products on the Zalora website in Southeast Asian markets.

aunching in Singapore and Malaysia, this is the first time Sephora products will be available for customers to purchase online in the region. The partnership was expanded to Thailand in mid-2014. Zalora has over 15 million visits to its sites monthly, offering good exposure to Sephora’s product range.

he internet retailing channel in Asia could especially serve premium brands well, given the relatively weak development of beauty specialist retailers in the region, transacting 12% of all beauty sales, versus 20% in the Middle East and Africa or 18% in Western Europe. Targeting online luxury retailers for partnerships significantly develops the retail environment for premium beauty brands.

Sample Unit Prices: Premium and Mass Anti-Agers in the UK 2014

Price Unit Brand owner Brand (£) (ml)
Price
Unit
Brand owner
Brand
(£)
(ml)

ell-performing digital platforms for premium beauty brands are

Beiersdorf

La Prairie Cellular Platinum Cream

698.00

50

collaborative marketplaces for

Shiseido

Shiseido Wrinkle Resist 24 Night Cream

68.00

50

luxury categories, with fashion and other lifestyle products.

Unilever

Pond's Nourishing Anti-Wrinkle Cream

5.00

50

Lidl

Cien Face Anti-Wrinkle Q10 Day Cream

2.00

50

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Introduction Digital Market Space In Beauty Strategy Growth Pillars Growth Platforms Retail Curation Future Impacts

Introduction Digital Market Space In Beauty Strategy Growth Pillars

Growth Platforms

Retail Curation Future Impacts

Growth Platforms

Growing number of digital platforms for online beauty sales

igital platforms of beauty products online sales are growing in number and scale.

raditional beauty retailers are developing their online presence in order to successfully compete with the growing competition for consumer choice of marketplace.

ure e-tailers, eg Amazon and eBay have long-established infrastructure and know-how of online trading but the competition facing them is growing too from a myriad mobile apps, social media and company websites.

t is probably the most difficult for direct sellers to adjust their basic business model of personal contacts to the digital era. Avon has launched a number of initiatives to capture a wider, digitally-engaged consumer base.

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Growth Platforms

Beauty retailers develop stronger online presence

eauty specialist retailers have been investing in the development of their online presence and focus on multi-channel retailing.

ephora, owned by LVMH, consolidated its global leading position in beauty products retailing and increased its market value share to 5% in 2014. Emerging markets expansion and embracing new digital technologies strongly contributed to this strong growth.

ephora grew in all key regions and continued to generate notable comparable- store revenue growth in North America and the Middle East. Sephora’s first stores opened in Indonesia during the last quarter in 2014, while it entered Thailand at the end of 2013 and online sales saw continued rapid progress.

ew technologies such as SkincareIQ and ColorIQ are adding to the customer experience and the company has revamped its website for multi-channel reach and launched a mobile app called “My Sephora” for its sales associates. My Sephora’s purpose is to help sales associates provide stronger personalised recommendations to consumers as it holds a customer’s purchase history, tastes and habits. This way Sephora hopes to build intimacy with customers and enhance their in-store shopping experience.

n March 2014, Sephora also launched its Beauty Board platform; social shopping via a Pinterest/Instagram style photo-sharing site that encourages users to share, tag and review their beauty looks.

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Growth Platforms

In-store digital technologies aid consumer engagement

he development of digital strategies also means the blending of online and in-store retailing, which takes various forms, including options to buy online but to collect in-store (“click-and-collect”).

he installation of in-store screens for browsing the extended product offer available in the store and also aiding self-service helps to create a more engaging experience for consumers. It also reduces the need for more sales associates during peak traffic times.

ne of the early pioneers of in-store digital technologies was Clinique. In February 2011, a skin care diagnostic touch screen designed to allow consumers to obtain a customised skin care regimen and product recommendations based on their unique skin type.

n-store digital engagement has developed significantly especially in premium labels’ stand-alone stores, as aiding the sales process with the display of latest technology adds to the premium image of the brand.

n 2014, British fashion label Burberry opened a new digitally-enhanced retail location to showcase its newly launched beauty line. The Burberry Beauty Box, located in London’s Covent Garden, carries Burberry’s beauty, fragrance and accessory lines, and offers consumers the ability to discover the brand’s cosmetics through both sales associates and digital touchpoints, including mobile checkout.

Blending online and offline retail

The combination of the various forms of retailing reflects the realisation that consumers use online- and store-based channels throughout their shopping journey differently and as complementary when making a purchase.

Even pure play e-commerce retailers have adopted a few multi-channel strategies. Amazon, for example, has installed physical collect locations including Amazon Lockers or set up agreements with local convenience stores. eBay has joined forces with Argos in the UK to offer collection points to its customers.

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Growth Platforms

Increasingly fragmenting online marketplace

On e of the relative new rising challenges traditional beauty products marketplaces face is the growing number and popularity of pure play beauty e-tailers and online-only beauty brands, including The Dollar Shave Club, Glossier and Beautycounter to name but a few.

 

Ea

ch of these sites incorporates the multiple benefits internet retailing offers, from convenience to variety to competitive pricing but in addition all carry unique selling points to attract their target audience.

 

Ret

ail curation though the engagement of vendors and consumers is a key sales tool on these sites.

E-

tailers and online-only brands aim to attract their consumer base through shared interests, values and attitudes to beauty, eg myshowcase.com claims a passion for supporting female entrepreneurs in building or expanding their businesses, each product on the site has an inspirational person at the helm and an original story, and is generally not easily available in the high-street, eg Claire Vero’s Aurelia Probiotic Skincare range.

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Growth Platforms Increasingly fragmenting online marketplace  On e of the relative new rising challenges traditional© Euromonitor International Beauty & Personal Care: Digital Strategies Serve All Aspects of Operations in Global Beauty PASSPORT 32 " id="pdf-obj-31-31" src="pdf-obj-31-31.jpg">
Growth Platforms Increasingly fragmenting online marketplace  On e of the relative new rising challenges traditional© Euromonitor International Beauty & Personal Care: Digital Strategies Serve All Aspects of Operations in Global Beauty PASSPORT 32 " id="pdf-obj-31-33" src="pdf-obj-31-33.jpg">

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Growth Platforms

Rising challenge from online-only beauty brands

 

T

he most innovative brand concept of 2014 was Glossier, which was created by Emily Weiss, founder of the beauty blog Into the Gloss. The brand is unique, not only due to its Instagram launch and its exclusive online distribution from Glossier.com, but due to its philosophy. Glossier’s philosophy is that it is not a brand but a community. It has been created on the back of consumer feedback from Emily Weiss’s blog and consists of four product offerings only, namely a moisturiser, a balm, a facial mist and a foundation.

 

N

ew products will be introduced to the market every quarter. Furthermore, Emily Weiss has managed to raise US$8.4 million for her brand so far, indicating its strong commercial credentials.

 

B

rands with a strong story or emotive associations such as Glossier engage more closely with consumers which can help them differentiate themselves from the competition. Such strategies are especially important for new and niche players that do not necessarily have the marketing budget to raise awareness for their brands in the traditional marketing channels.

Brand engagement crucial for online-only brands

The online beauty market is fragmented into small companies and brands, but the potential for new players to capture significant consumer base through internet sales at manageable costs remains.

For online-only beauty companies, engaging with customers, helping them to learn more about products and their specific beauty concerns is critical.

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Source: https://www.glossier.com

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Growth Platforms

Mobile chat apps open a new channel for beauty retail

In February 2014, the messaging app Line introduced a new initiative in mobile commerce in Thailand. It has run a series of Line Flash Sale events online, including the sale of Maybelline lipstick, Line’s own private label merchandise, and even a food chain store’s discount coupons.

Of the 22 million Line app users in Thailand, 5.5 million opted to participate in the flash sales, capturing a significant consumer base. Flash sales are becoming an increasingly popular way to sell products online in Asia. The channel also became available in Taiwan, because the direct-to- customer approach allows companies to save costs on inventory and distribution to third party vendors.

Given these flash sales are largely targeting impulse purchases, so that products displayed are generally at lower price points, targeting a wide consumer base, they are better suited to mass beauty brands.

WeChat, a popular chat application in China with 438 million registered users, is becoming an increasingly important commercial channel for beauty products, especially in categories dominated by local brands, such as face masks. Brands started to recruit WeChat users to present and sell their products directly to followers. For example, Choiskycn, a sheet mask brand, was launched via the app in 2013.

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Growth Platforms

Social media e-commerce has taken off

ocial media sites are moving beyond being simply a marketing tool and becoming sales platforms for beauty products.

n integral part of the sales process is getting to know potential consumers and establishing relationships; social media can help to accomplish this phase of sales and beauty brands have a long-standing presence and conversation with consumers on these sites.

owever, it has been a relatively recent development on these sites to add the option to purchase products directly from the site. For example, Instagram is not just a photo-sharing platform any more; it has also become one of the most popular online selling tools available. inSelly, an Instagram marketplace facilitates the sales. Or Hashbag is another Instagram selling tool where sellers get their own storefronts on the Hashbag marketplace, while buyers search for items using hashtags.

acebook, the world’s most well-known social media site, uses the Soldsie Facebook app, which turns the social network's comments section into an e- commerce powerhouse.

lthough consumer interest, especially from the so-called Generation Y, is growing and online infrastructure is developing rapidly to facilitate sales on social media sites, for beauty products it still accounts for a very small ratio of sales. Presence and activities on these sites represent a more powerful marketing approach than sales tools.

Social media’s “buy now” option the ultimate impulse purchase

One of the latest sales initiatives of social media is the “buy now” option, trialled first by Facebook over the summer and launched in September by Twitter - most visibly at the London Fashion Show, where it partnered with Burberry, the luxury fashion and beauty house.

Burberry, for example, has 3.7 million followers on Twitter, which is a huge potential consumer base, already interested in the brand. The “buy now” button offers a platform for impulse purchase. This is most suitable for Burberry’s beauty portfolio rather than its big ticket luxury items.

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S

A

H

F

A

Growth Platforms

Direct sellers need digital engagement directly with consumers

he world’s leading direct sellers have witnessed a number of cultural and technological shifts in recent decades. Adjusting the basic business model of door- to-door selling and personal relationships with sales agents to the digital era has been a challenge.

he three largest global direct sellers in beauty, Amway, Avon and Oriflame all show decelerating sales over the period 2009-

2014.

n October 2014, Avon relaunched its e-commerce website to support its sales representatives, to blend online and offline sales. The company is arming them with digital content, such as tips and video interviews with make-up artists backstage at Fashion Week, which they can broadcast via Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Tumblr to connect with their target consumer base.

von has posted weak financial results in recent years; net sales and operating profit have been declining steadily since 2011 and it posted a US$331 million net loss in the fourth quarter of 2014. Avon will need to establish a foothold in the digital marketplace in order to reignite growth and exploit long-term growth opportunities.

hese companies thus far have been slow to integrate digital initiatives into their strategies.

lthough they have migrated their catalogues onto online platforms and support their representatives with digital tools to build their business, these do not go far enough to engage with consumers, analyse habits and map out preferences or concerns. However, early initiatives from direct sellers have started to surface.

Growth Platforms Direct sellers need digital engagement directly with consumers he world’s leading direct sellers have© Euromonitor International Beauty & Personal Care: Digital Strategies Serve All Aspects of Operations in Global Beauty PASSPORT 36     " id="pdf-obj-35-20" src="pdf-obj-35-20.jpg">

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Introduction Digital Market Space In Beauty Strategy Growth Pillars Growth Platforms Retail Curation Future Impacts

Introduction Digital Market Space In Beauty Strategy Growth Pillars Growth Platforms

Retail Curation

Future Impacts

Retail Curation

The impact of curated retail in beauty

he implementation of various digital initiatives as a result of stronger consumer engagement has a growing impact on many aspects of the beauty industry, including the changing relationships between retailers/manufacturers and consumers.

tocked product selection and display no longer curated only by retailers and industry insiders but also by consumers themselves, using social media platforms to propagate their views and to gain followings.

ocial media impacts pre-purchase decision-making and informs post-purchase behaviour. In addition, it democratises information on beauty products.

urated retail ensures focused shopping and product relevancy; it provides customers with choices that will most interest them depending on previous shopping choices, interactions and set preferences.

nline curation relies more heavily on technology to present the best possible products to the specific consumer based on information shared on social media sites and blog pages.

owever, as social media sites are also transforming into sales sites, eg Instagram’s Hashbag, it presents a clash with the independent, unbiased, peer-to-peer image of the beauty community. Management of the consumer- generated digital presence of brands is crucial.

Retail Curation The impact of curated retail in beauty he implementation of various digital initiatives as© Euromonitor International Beauty & Personal Care: Digital Strategies Serve All Aspects of Operations in Global Beauty PASSPORT 38 " id="pdf-obj-37-18" src="pdf-obj-37-18.jpg">

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Retail Curation

Managing consumer-generated digital curation

rands’ digital strategies need to take the influence of peer-to-peer reviews into account. Consumer-generated digital content about a product is highly effective and a relatively cost-effective marketing tool for brand owners. However, the challenge is to manage this content and address any feedback efficiently. Consumer reviews, likes, re-tweets and re- pins are powerful marketing tools but unmanaged they could cause as much harm to growth as good.

ebsites such as Pinterest and Fancy.com operate on a crowd curation model, allowing ordinary web users (as well as celebrities and businesses) to curate their own collections of products.

ome such websites also include a buying element for a full curated retail experience, but crowd curation has been taken further by the likes of influential Japanese beauty community website cosme. For any beauty product, a top ranking on @cosme is one of the best endorsements possible.

Retail Curation Managing consumer-generated digital curation rands’ digital strategies need to take the influence of peer-to-peer© Euromonitor International Beauty & Personal Care: Digital Strategies Serve All Aspects of Operations in Global Beauty PASSPORT 39 " id="pdf-obj-38-12" src="pdf-obj-38-12.jpg">

Source: Cosme@Hankyu

osme orders products according to rankings based on user feedback.

osme started out as a beauty product review website back in 1999, but now it has five outlets in central Tokyo and one in Osaka where the product mix is decided by the @cosme rankings, and refreshed regularly.

ulti-channel retailing is expanding not simply by the migration of store-based offerings to online platforms but the other way around in Cosme’s case.

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Retail Curation

Beauty boxes raise strong competition in online curation

he online marketplace has become even more competitive with the rise of the “beauty box” concept and companies’ digital planning needs to compensate for and replicate the benefits the boxes offer. Variety, frequent innovation and complementary product ranges are among the unique selling points of the boxes. Replicating through analysing consumer habits and preferences and accurate consumer segmentation for any brand is key to fending off competition from beauty boxes.

eginning with the launch of Birchbox in 2010, the beauty box phenomenon has seen rapid global expansion. Most subscriptions involve a curation element, with subscribers providing information on their style and beauty habits so the right products can be “chosen” for them. Some beauty box suppliers employ industry insiders to select products, or partner up with influential curators, such as lust have it!’s partnership with blogger Chloe Morello or UK department store Selfridges’s collaboration with Elle Magazine.

he beauty box business model is built on the “Try, Buy, Learn” concept, with the most successful companies not only selling full-size products, but also helping subscribers to learn how to use the samples and gathering data for its brand partners. The two biggest operators, Birchbox and Glossybox, have sent out nearly a million boxes between them.

owever, maintaining consumer loyalty beyond the first few boxes, and the challenge of attracting brands to supply samples in a now-crowded market means only the strongest beauty box brands will survive. Curation is likely to grow in importance as beauty boxes fight to differentiate themselves from their rivals.

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Retail Curation

Weighing up opportunities and challenges for beauty retail curation

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Introduction Digital Market Space In Beauty Strategy Growth Pillars Growth Platforms Retail Curation Future Impacts

Introduction Digital Market Space In Beauty Strategy Growth Pillars Growth Platforms Retail Curation

Future Impacts

Future Impacts

Digital space for beauty products continues to expand

A lthough the growth of internet retailing is expected to decelerate between 2014 and 2019, it
A
lthough the growth of internet retailing is expected to decelerate between 2014 and 2019,
it will remain the fastest-growing retail channel and post double-digit growth for most of
this period.
T
he digital marketplace for beauty products will also continue to expand not just in terms of
actual sales transactions but also the online presence of brands and the intensity of
interactions with consumers on various levels from innovation to brand positioning to
curated retail.
I
ncome, urbanisation and a young and digitally-savvy population all have an indirect but
important impact on this development but the most important factors to watch will remain
the expansion of m-commerce infrastructure and ownership of internet-enabled devices.
External factors play a strong part in the growth of digital market space
for beauty products:
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Future Impacts

Digital strategies need to serve all aspects of beauty operations

Be auty companies show a growing focus on and rising investment in developing their digital strategies and growing their online footprint. Th

e objective of these strategies is not only to include the transaction of online purchases but also to build strong brand image, raise brand recognition, drive innovation in line with consumer demand and also to offer a competitive pricing platform.

Alt

hough there are good growth prospects in the digital space for beauty, it is not without challenges. There is rising competition in the fragmented marketplace from the growing number of online-only brands, online beauty retailers and from the beauty box subscription model. Consumer-generated digital content about brands is crucial for consumer analysis and two-way dialogue, however this content needs to be managed carefully to fully benefit from this platform.

Th

e development of digital strategies is not without significant investment from companies and the key objective has to remain the provision of profitable and cost-effective operations.

Incorporation of digital strategies into aspects of innovation:

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Report Definitions

Definitions

Beauty and Personal Care

This is the aggregation of baby and child-specific products, bath & shower, deodorants, hair care, colour cosmetics, men's grooming, oral hygiene, fragrances, skin care, depilatories, sun care and sets/kits. Black market sales and travel retail are excluded.

Internet Retailing

Sales of consumer goods to the general public via the Internet. Consumers purchase goods advertised or promoted through a web-medium whereby the payment is made online through the web platform. Sales data is attributed to the country where the consumer is based, rather than where the retailer is based. Also includes orders placed through the web for which payment is then made through a storecard or an online credit account subsequent to delivery. This payment may be by any mode of payment including postal cheque, direct debit, standing order or other banking tools. Includes digital music and movie downloads. Includes mobile retailing (m-commerce): consumers use wireless devices such as mobile phone, PDA, BlackBerry, to connect to Internet and purchase the goods online. Excludes sales of wallpapers and ringtones. Example brands include Amazon.com NOTE: Pre-paid card technology incorporated within a mobile device is considered a method of payment and therefore is excluded from mobile retailing. Excludes sales on returned products/unpaid invoices. Excludes quick delivery services of food, magazines, household goods and DVD rentals, for example: MaxDelivery.com, LicketyShip.com. Excludes gift packs.

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RESEARCH OVERVIEW

Overview of survey methodology

Global Consumer Trends survey

Personal Appearances survey

Focus and design All surveys were completed in local languages across nine markets: Brazil, China, France, Germany, India, Japan, Russia, UK and US Fielding Fielding from July to August 2013

Panellists were pre-screened to ensure that the sample matched each country’s population for age (from 16 to 65+) and gender

Data cleaning

After data cleaning of respondents with duplicate IP addresses, illogical responses, and responses with fast completion times, 16,327 of responses were retained for analysis

Focus and design

All surveys were completed in local languages online across 16 markets : Australia, Brazil, China, Colombia, France, Germany, India, Indonesia, Japan, Mexico, Middle East (Saudi Arabia and United Arab Emirates), Russia, Spain, Turkey, the UK and US.

Fielding Fielding from February to March 2014

Panellists were pre-screened to ensure that the sample matched each country’s population, ages 15-75.

To allow for deeper analysis of women’s grooming and personal appearances habits, 60% of respondents in each country were female, while 40% were male.

Data cleaning

After data cleaning of duplicate IP addresses, inconsistent responses, and responses with fast completion times, at least 300 or 500 responses in each country were used in analysis.

During analysis, a weight was applied to the data to ensure that the results are not overly biased towards countries with 500 respondents or towards female respondents.

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FOR FURTHER INSIGHT PLEASE CONTACT Ildiko Szalai Senior Analyst – Beauty and Personal Care Ildiko.szalai@euromonitor.com @emi_Ildiko

FOR FURTHER INSIGHT PLEASE CONTACT

  • Ildiko Szalai
    Senior Analyst – Beauty and Personal Care Ildiko.szalai@euromonitor.com @emi_Ildiko

RELATED ANALYSIS

Unlocking Diverse Opportunities in Beauty in Asia Pacific – Dec 2014 The Multifaceted Evolution of Global Beauty – Oct 2014 Beauty Innovation Round-Up Summer 2014 – Sept 2014 The Impact of Russia’s Sanctions on Global Beauty Players – Sept 2014 Beauty Players’ Fit Response to World Cup-Stirred Opportunities – July 2014

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