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DAVANGERE-577004, KARNATAKA
A TECHNICAL PRESENTATION ON
Introduction To Salt-Free
Dyeing
Cotton is still the king of fibers because most of
worlds apparel is made of cotton. It has fairly good strength
and it is considered to provide comfort, good moisture
absorption and wicking properties. Cotton fabrics however,
have a tendency to wrinkle badly and have smooth drying
properties after laundering. The rupture and reformation of
hydrogen bonds cause wrinkles on cotton or cotton blend
fabrics.
With growing popularity of reactive dyes for dyeing of
modal /cotton blends environmental problems associated
with their use have received attention. Since cotton has only
moderate affinity for most reactive dyes, large quantity of
electrolyte such as NaCl or Na2So4 (40-100 gpl) are normally
required for exhaustion. Hence dye bath exhaustion and
fixation can still be as low as 50% for some dyes. Waste
water therefore contains a significant quantity of dye and
salt, leading to serious environmental problems.
The aim of present work was to determine the effectiveness
of PVAmHCl as pretreatment for cotton in improving its
dyeability with reactive dyes and in achieving evenness of
dye uptake. It was also of interest to determine wheather it
Disperse
Cationic-dyeable
Cationic
Polyester
Disperse
Acrylic
Disperse
Materials
The fabric:
The modal/cotton yarns were spun & the fabric was woven. The geometrical properties of the fabric are
shown in table.
Fabric
Ends/c
m
Picks/c
m
Weft Count
(Tex)
Thickness
(mm)
Cotton
27
27
130
20
0.20
20
Functions
Dyeing
Pretreatment
To maintain pH
Fixing agent
Swelling agent
Exhaustion agent
Methods
Preparation of Fabric:
Pretreatment
Padding method was used for
pretreatment of cotton with
PVAmHCl the pH of
pretreatment liquor was
maintained at buffer
comprising potassium
dihydrogen phosphate (7
gpl) and Sodium Hydroxide
(1.39 gpl). Padding was
carried out using 2 dips (3
min for each) and 2 nips.
Fabric samples were pre
dried at room temperature
and then baked at 100oC for
10 min in rapid baker.
Padding was done at
different concentration of
PVAmHCl. Pretreatment
process conditions are as
shown in table.
PVAmHCl
KH2PO4
7 gpl
NaOH
1.39 gpl
pH
Pretreatment
time
3 min (2dips)
for each
Curing
100OC
Temperature
Curing Time
10 min
Dyeing
The fabric dyed with
reactive dye using
procedure recommended
by dye manufacturer.
This fabric sample is
considered as control
sample. Exhaust dyeing
was carried out at liquor
ratio 1:30. Dyeing of
fabric pretreated with
different concentrations
of PVAmHCl was carried
out at 35-400 C for 90
min. Fixation was
conducted for 20 min.
using 10 gpl of Na2CO3.
Process conditions for
dyeing are shown in table
Percentage Dye
(OWF) %
Dyeing
Temperature
35-400C
Na2CO3
10 gpl
NaCl
20 gpl
(Only for
conventional
dyeing)
pH
10-11
Time of Dyeing
90 min
Fixation time
20 min.
Testing
The details of various tests
conducted on the fabric were as
follows.
Colour strength (K/S Value):
Color strength K/S was measured
on Minolta Spectrophotometer.
These values are calculated
using the following KUBELKAMUNK equation.
K/S = (1-R )2/2R
Where K- Absorption co-efficient
R- Reflectance of the dyed
S Scattering co-efficient at the
wavelength of maximum
absorption.
Physical properties: The physical
properties of the dyed fabric
samples and the instruments
used are shown in table
Sl.No
.
Property
Instrument used
1.
Thickness
Thickness guage.
2.
Wash
fastnes
s
3.
Rubbing
fastnes
s
Crockmeter.
4.
Tensile
strengt
h
5.
Flexural
rigidity
6.
Crease
recover
y angle
7.
Aerial
Density
Quadrant balance
PVAmHCl
concentration
(g/l)
K/S Value
2.5
12.3
5.0
15.1
10.0
18.8
15.0
16.1
20.0
12.5
Conventional
13.7
8.3
Effect of pretreatment on
wash and rubbing fastness
properties
Results of wash and
rubbing fastness are
presented in table.
PVAmHCl
concentration
(g/l)
Wash
fastn
ess
Rubbing
fastnes
s
2.5
5.0
10.0
15.0
20.0
Conventional
3-4
3-4
Untreated & No
salt
Tensile Strength
(Kgs)
(Warp+Weft)
Flexural Rigidity
(mg-cm)
Cloth Crease
Recovery angle
in
Aerial
densit
y
(GSM)
Thickness
(mm)
60
210
140
220
0.68
Treated Sample
(10 gpl
concentration
of PVAmHCl)
58
216
165
200
0.56
Tensile
Strength (Kgs)
(Warp+Weft)
Flexural
Rigidity
(mg-cm)
Cloth Crease
Recovery angle
in degree
Aerial
density
(GSM)
Thickness
(mm)
Sample dyed
with
conventional
process
60
210
140
220
0.68
Treated Sample
(10 gpl
concentration of
PVAmHCl)
58
216
165
200
0.56
Conclusion
When the modal/cotton blend fabrics were pretreated with
PVAmHCl the reactivity of reactive dyes on fibre gets
increased. Wash fastness, rubbing fastness of pretreated
sample are better than conventional dyed sample. Fabric
crease recovery and flexural rigidity increases as a result
of pretreatment. There is no change in the tensile
strength of fabric as a result of pretreatment.
By using pretreatment method the following the following
benefits can be obtained.
Elimination of salt as an electrolyte
Maximum fixation of dye
Minimum hydrolysis of dye
Low volume of water requirement during wash off
process
Significant saving in process cost
Environmental friendly
Reference
1. Wei Ma, Shufen Zhang, Bingtao Tang
and Jinzong Yang, Color.
Technol.,121(2005)193.
2. R S Blackburn and S M Burkinshaw , j.
appl. Polym. Sci., 89(2003)1026.
3. Z Y Hu, S F Zhang, J Z Yang and C Yu,
J. Appl. Polym.sci., 89(2003)1026.
4. D J Dawson, K M Otteson and P C
Wang, Macromolecules, 11(1978)320.