Broaching, Reamer & Lapping

SANDEEP YADAV
ASST. PROFESSOR
HITAM

25-2

Objectives
Identify and explain the purpose of several
types of hand reamers
Ream a hole accurately with a hand reamer
Cut a keyway in a workpiece using a broach
and arbor press
Lap a hole or an external diameter of a
workpiece to size and finish

25-3

Hand Cutting Tools

Reamers
Used to bring hole to size and produce good
finish

Broaches
Used with arbor press to produce special shapes
in workpiece
Multi-tooth tool forced through hole

Lapping
Where very fine abrasive powder, embedded in
tool is used to remove minute amounts of
material from surface

25-4

Solid Hand Reamer

Made of carbon steel or high-speed steel
Available in inch sizes from .125 - 1.500 in.
Metric from 1 26 mm in diameter

Not adjustable and may have straight or helical

flutes
Should not be used on work with keyway or any
other interruption (chatter and poor finish)

Copyright The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc. Permission required for reproduction or display.

25-5

Expansion Hand Reamer

Designed to permit adjustment of approximately .
006 in. above nominal diameter
Hollow and has slots along length of cutting
section
Tapered threaded plug fitted into end of reamer
provides for limited expansion
Cutting end of reamer ground to slight taper

Copyright The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc. Permission required for reproduction or display.

25-6

Adjustable Hand Reamer

Has tapered slots along entire length of body
Inner edges of cutting blades have corresponding
taper so blades remain parallel for any settings
Adjusted to size by upper and lower adjusting nuts
Blades have adjustment range of 132 in. on smaller
reamers to almost 516 in. on larger ones
Manufactured in sizes to 3 in. in diameter

Copyright The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc. Permission required for reproduction or display.

25-7

Taper Reamer
Used to finish tapered holes accurately and
smoothly
Made with either spiral or straight teeth
Spiral-flute superior to straight due to shearing action
and reduced chatter

Roughing reamer
Nicks ground at intervals along teeth
Used for more rapid removal of surplus metal

Copyright The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc. Permission required for reproduction or display.

25-8

Finishing Taper Reamer

Used after roughing reamer to finish hole
smoothly and to size
Either straight or left-hand spiral flutes
Designed to remove only small amount of
metal (about .010 in from hole)
Do not clear themselves readily

Copyright The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc. Permission required for reproduction or display.

25-9

Reaming Precautions
1. Never turn reamer backward
(counterclockwise), it will dull teeth
2. Use cutting lubricant where required
3. Always use helical-fluted reamer in hole
that has keyway or oil groove cut in it
4. Never attempt to remove too much
material (maximum = .010 in.)
5. Frequently clear taper reamer and hole of
chips

25-10

To Ream Hole With a Straight

Hand Reamer
1. Check size of drilled hole (.004-.005 in.
smaller than finished hole size)
2. Place end of reamer in hole and place tap
wrench on square end of reamer
3. Rotate reamer clockwise to align with hole
4. Check reamer for squareness with work
5. Brush cutting fluid over end of reamer
6. Rotate reamer slowly clockwise and apply
downward pressure

25-11

Broaching
Process in which special tapered multitoothed
cutter forced through an opening or along outside
piece of work to enlarge or change shape of hole
First used for internal shapes (keyways, splines)
Cutting action performed by series of successive
teeth
Each protrude .003 in. farther than
preceding tooth
Last three teeth same depth and provide
finish cut

Copyright The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc. Permission required for reproduction or display.

25-12

25-13

Types of Broach

25-14

Types of Broach

25-15

Advantages of Broaching
1. Machining almost any irregular shape is
possible (providing it is parallel to axis)
2. Rapid: entire process usually in one pass
3. Roughing and finishing cuts combined
4. Variety of forms, internal or external, may
be cut simultaneously and entire width of
surface may be machined in one pass

25-16

Cutting a Keyway
With a Broach
Keyways may be cut by hand quickly and
accurately by means of broach set and arbor
press
Broach set covers wide range of keyways
Equipment necessary to cut keyway
Bushing to suit hole size
Broach size of keyway to be cut
Shims to increase depth of cut of broach

25-17

Procedure for Cutting a Keyway

With a Broach
1. Determine keyway size required
2. Select proper broach, bushing and shims
3. Place workpiece on arbor press

Use an opening on base smaller than opening

in work so bushing properly supported

4. Insert bushing and broach into opening

Apply cutting fluid if workpiece is steel

25-18

5. Check broach to be sure that it has started

squarely in hole
6. Press broach through workpiece

Maintain constant pressure on arbor-press

handle

7. Remove broach, insert one shim and press

broach through hole
8. Insert second shim, if required, and press
broach through again

This cuts keyway to proper depth

9. Remove bushing, broach, and shims

25-19

Lapping

Abrading process used to remove minute

amounts of metal from surface
Reasons for lapping
1.
2.
3.
4.

Increase wear life of part

Improve accuracy and surface finish
Improve surface flatness
Provide better seals and eliminate need for
gaskets

Intended to remove only about .0005 in.

25-20

Lapping Abrasives
Both natural and artificial abrasives used
Flour of emery and fine powders made of
silicon carbide or aluminum oxide used
extensively
Used for rough lapping should be no coarser
than 150 grit
Fine powders run up to 600 grit
Fine work uses diamond dust in paste form

25-21

Flat Laps
Close-grained cast iron laps used for flat
surfaces
Roughing operation (blocking down)
Lapping plate scored with narrow grooves .500
in. apart both lengthwise and crosswise to form
square or diamond pattern

Finish lapping done on smooth cast-iron plate

25-22

Charging the Flat Lapping Plate

Spread thin coating of abrasive powder over
surface of plate
Press particles into surface of lap with
hardened steel block or roll
When surface charged, clean surface with
varsol and examine for bright spots
Until entire surface assumes gray appearance
after it has been cleaned

25-23

Lapping a Flat Surface

1. Place a little varsol on finish-lapping plate
that has been charged
2. Place work on top of plate and gently
push it back and forth over full surface of
lap using irregular movement

Do not stay in one spot!

3. Continue this movement with light

pressure until desired surface finish
obtained

25-24

Lapping:
Precautions to Be Observed
1. Do not stay in one area; cover full surface
of the lap
2. Never add fresh supply of loose abrasive
3. Never press too hard on work because lap
will become stripped in places
4. Always keep lap moist

25-25

Internal Laps
Holes accurately finished to size and
smoothness by lapping
Made of brass, copper, or lead
Three types
Lead
Internal
Adjustable

25-26

Lead Lap
Made by pouring lead around tapered
mandrel that has groove along length
Turned to running fit into hole
Sometimes slit on outside to trap loose abrasive

Adjust by lightly tapping large end of

mandrel with soft block

Copyright The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc. Permission required for reproduction or display.

25-27

Internal Lap
May be made of copper, brass or cast iron
Threaded-taper plug fits into end of lap
Slit for almost its entire length
Lap diameter may be adjusted by threadedtaper plug

Copyright The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc. Permission required for reproduction or display.

25-28

Adjustable Lap
May be made from copper or brass
Split for almost full length, but both ends
remain solid
Slight adjustment provided by means of two
setscrew in center section

Copyright The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc. Permission required for reproduction or display.

25-29

Charging and Using an

Internal Lap
Note: Before charging, lap should be running
fit in hole.
1. Sprinkle some lapping powder evenly on
flat plate
2. Roll lap over powder, to embed abrasive
into surface of lap
3. Remove excess powder
4. Mount lathe dog on end of lap

25-30

5. Fit workpiece over end of lap

Lab should not be wringing fit in hole of

work and about 2.5 times length of work

6. Place some oil or varsol on lap

7. Mount lap and work between lathe centers
8. Set machine to run at slow speed, 150 to
200 r/min for 1 in. diameter
9. Hold work securely and start machine
10. Run work back and forth entire length

25-31

11. Remove work and rinse it in varsol to

remove abrasive and to bring to room
temperature
12. Gage hole for size
Note: Keep lap moist and never add loose
abrasive to lap. Loose abrasive will cause
work to become bell-mouthed at ends. If
more abrasive necessary, recharge lap and
adjust as required.

25-32

External Laps
Used to finish outside of cylindrical
workpieces
May be several forms, however, basic
design same
Made of cast iron or may have split brass
bushing mounted inside by setscrew
Must be some provision for adjusting lap

25-33

Charging and Using an

External Lap
1. Mount workpiece in three-jaw chuck on
lathe or drill press
2. Adjust lap until it is running fit on work
3. Grip end of lap in vise
4. Sprinkle abrasive powder in hole
5. With hardened steel pin, roll abrasive
evenly around inside surface of lap
6. Remove excess lapping powder

25-34

7. Place lap on workpiece. It should now be

wringing fit.
8. Set machine to run at slow speed (150 to
200 r/min for 1 in. diameter)
9. Add some varsol to workpiece and lap
10. Hold lap securely and start machine
11. Move lap back and forth along work

Always keep lap moist

12. To gage work, remove lap and clean

workpiece with varsol