Unit 5

Trims

Technical Trims
Labels, decoration
(embroidery, motifs and badges,
sequins)

Fabrics for support and insulation

(linings, interlinings, wadding, shoulder
pads)

Narrow fabric trims

(lace, braid, elastic, seam binding and
tape)

Fastenings

Label
No garment can be sold without
some kind of label attached to it.
Labelling listing fibre content is
mandatory, size labelling is clearly
necessary, and country of origin
marking

Printed / woven

Label
Care
labelling
is
generally
a
voluntary rather than a legal
requirement
The least expensive labels are
printed on a large area of woven,
thermoplastic fabric and heat sealed
to the narrow width required

Fusible labels

Heat Seal Labels

Decoration
Embroidery
Motifs and badges
Sequins

(linings, interlinings, wadding, shoulder pads)

FABRICS FOR SUPPORT

AND INSULATION

linings, interlinings,
wadding, shoulder pads
Linings are generally a functional
part of a garment, being used
variously to maintain the shape of
a garment, to improve the hang
and comfort by allowing it to slide
over other garments, to add
insulation, and to cover the inside
of a garment
Linings are available as warp knits,
but predominantly they are woven
and are made from polyester,
polyamide, acetate and viscose

interlinings
Interlinings are used to support, reinforce
and control areas of garments such as
collars, cuffs, waistbands, hems, facings
and the fronts of jackets and coats. They
may be sewn into the garment or
attached by means of fusing

wadding
Wadding or batting are
the names given to the
fibre fillings used in
garments where warmth
is required without great
weight. They aim to
simulate the warmth and
lightness of down, but
with the advantage of
washability and speed of
drying as well as lower
cost.

Shoulder pads
Shoulder pads have long
been a standard item in
tailored garments both
for women and for men,
but from time to time
they become a fashion
item and are seen in a
much wider range of
garments
including
knitwear and lightweight
blouses.

NARROW FABRIC TRIMS

LACE, BRAID AND ELASTIC

Lace
The term lace
correctly refers to
the type of open
structure
originally
made by hand
and now available
in a variety of
machine-made
forms

Braids
Braids were originally braided
fabrics, produced by interlacing
yarns
diagonally in a form of plaiting.
They were either narrow fl at
fabrics
or the type of narrow tube familiar
as shoelaces. Flat braids of this
type are still used and in wool and
acrylic they make soft and flexible
edgings
for
binding
around
medium
and
heavyweight
garments

Elastic
Where
elasticated
effects are required
locally on garments
but without
added
decoration,
corded
elastic
of
various widths and
even fl at
rubber strips are
used.

Seam binding and tape

In some types of
garment, neatening
of seam edges by
means of overedging
is
inadequate
or
inappropriate
and
the fabric edges are
bound with bias cut
strips
of
woven
fabric

FASTENINGS
(HOOK AND LOOP
FASTENINGS, EYELETS
AND LACES, ZIPS,
BUTTONS, TACK
BUTTONS, SNAP

Hook and loop fastenings

(Velcro)
Hook and loop fastenings,
e.g. Velcro, consist of two
woven polyamide tapes, one
covered with very fine hooks
and the other with very fine
loops.
When
pressed
together
they
adhere
securely to each other.
They are very strong against
the kind of shearing forces
present in a simple lapped
join yet they peel apart
easily when required to be
undone.

Eyelets and laces

Garments
frequently
require small holes in them
in the form of eyelets for a
variety of purposes such as
for the prongs of buckles
on belts, for ventilation on
waterproof garments, for
the
emergence
of
drawstrings at waist or
around hoods, and for use

Zip fasteners

The major types of zip are:

individual metal teeth
spiral coil
plastic molded teeth
invisible zips

Buttons
Materials used for button making
including natural wood, bone, horn
and mother-of-pearl, and man-made
metal, polyester, polyamide, acrylic,
urea formaldehyde and casein

1 inch = 40 ligne

Mother of Pearl (MOP)

Tack Buttons
Tack buttons consist of
two
sections.
The
outer button fastens
with the buttonhole.
The two parts can be
brass or steel and the
button can be made
with
a
decorative
design or logo, but it
must be rust proofed

Snap Buttons

Rivets
Rivets are used for decoration
and reinforcement on garments,
mainly jeans, and may consist of
one or two sections

Button holes

FLY ; Kissing ; Lapping

These are zipper attachment techniques.
FLY : used most trousers, jeans etc
Kissing and lapping used for invisible
zippers etc as in figures

Garment Finishing and

Inspection

http://www.sli
deshare.net/ra

Process

Sewn garments received

in finishing section

Initialqualitycheck

Spot removing if theres

any spot

Ironing or pressing

Inspection

Hang tag attaching

Folding

Poly bag

Metal check

Packaging orcartoning

Garments Finishing
Garments finishing is an important
section
inreadymade
garments
sector. Its the last section of
garments manufacturing.
Its
basically
includes
trimming
sewing threads if any,
total
inspection of garments, top pressing,
folding, packing individual pieces and
carton packing.

Inspection
Differenttypes of faultsor defects
arise in sewing section which should
be
reduced
to
maintain
the
requiredqualityof apparel.

Sewing Defects
Needle damage:
for example,threaddrawn-off from the fabric or making
of large hole to the fabrics.

Skippedstitch.
Thread drawn-off.
Seam puckering.
Wrong stitch density.
Uneven stitch.
Staggered stitch.
Defected stitch.
Oil spotor stain.

Seaming Defects

Uneven width.
Unevenseamline.
Not secured by back stitch.
Twisting.
No matching of check or stripe.
No matching of seam.
Unexpected materials are attached with thesewing.
Not sewn by matching face side or back side
offabrics.
Use of wrongstitch type.
Wrong shade matching ofsewing thread.

Assembly Defects
Defected finished components by size
i.e. imperfect size and shape of finished components.

Imperfectgarmentssize.
Use of wrongticket.
Missing of any parts or predetermineddesignof garments.
Imperfect alignment of components
i.e.button, hook, and so on) in proper place.

Wrong placing or creasing ofinterlining.

Looseness or tightness of interlining.
Folding of any parts of garments that is seen to bad appearance.
Shade variation of garments.
False direction offabricparts in the garments.
Imperfect matching oftrimmingsin the garments.

What is theAQL?
AQL stands for Acceptance Quality
Limit, and isdefinedas the quality
level that is the worst tolerable in
ISO 2859-1. It decides on the
maximum number of defective units,
beyond which a batch is rejected.
Importers usually set different AQLs
for critical, major, and minor defects.
Most Asian exporters are familiar
with this type of setting.

 For example: I want no more than 1.5% defective

items in the whole order quantity, on average over
several production runs with that supplier means the
AQL is 1.5%.
In practice, three types of defects are distinguished.
For most consumer goods, the limits are:
0% for critical defects (totally unacceptable: a user might
get harmed, or regulations are not respected).
2.5% for major defects (these products would usually not
be considered acceptable by the end user).
4.0% for minor defects (there is some departure from
specifications, but most users would not mind it).
These proportionsvaryin function of the product and its market.

AQL Tables
They are an industry standard. Most
suppliers involved in international trade
are familiar with it.
They help determine two key elements:
How many samples should be picked and
inspected, among a batch of product or
parts?
Where is the limit between acceptability and
refusal, when it comes to defective
products?

AQL Tables