TEXTILE FINISHING 1

(INTRODUCTION TO
FINISHING)
Lecture# 01-06

Mujahid Mehdi Abro

Indus University Karachi.

Finishing

INTRODUCTION
A process done to fibers yarns and
fabric causing them to change in
appearance (lustre), texture feeling
(softness) and performance (water
repellent)

INTRODUCTION
FINISHING Final step in the manufacturing of
textile materials.
Process by which the final properties of the
material are developed.
Alter the appearance, aesthetics, & surface
characteristics for improved product performance
Property modification is achieved through various
techniques, both chemical and mechanical.

INTRODUCTION
The finishing process are carried out to improve the
natural properties or attractiveness of the fabric and to
increase its serviceability. The term finishing is broad
sense covers all processes which the fabric
undergoes after leaving the loom or knitted machine
to the stage at which it enters the market. Thus the
term also includes bleaching, dyeing, mercerizing etc.

Objectives
To enhance the suitability of the fabric for end use.
To improve appearance and sale appeal for comfort
and utility.
To make the fabric attractive and acceptable to the
consumer several finishing processes are applied.
Sometimes special finishes are also applied to the
fabric to make it serviceable for particular end use.

Objectives
To give desirable qualities to the fabric like :
Softness
Luster
Drape
Dimensional Stability
Crease Recovery
Soil Repellence

Objectives
More specifically, objects of finishing can be :
To improve the appearance of the fabric.
To improve the feel of the fabric.
To cover faults in the original fabric.
To improve wearing qualities of fabric by making it

shrink or crease resistant

Todays Requirements

Good quality of fabric.

Chemistry of chemicals reaction with fibres

Safe handling of chemicals

Worker Safety

Economical factors

Certification

Classification

Classification

Classification

Classification

On the basis of end products

Aesthetic finishes:
Aesthetic Finishes modify the appearance
and /or hand or drape of the fabrics.
Fulling
Mercerization
Napping And Sueding
Plisse
Shearing
Softening
Stiffening

On the basis of end products

Functional finishes:
Functional Finishes improve the performance properties of the
fabric ; like durability, strength etc.
Antimicrobial/Antiseptic
Antistatic
Crease resistant
Durable Press
Flame Resistant
Mothproof
Shrinkage Control
Soil Release
Water Proof/Repellant

On the basis of permanence

Temporary finishes:
A finish which is not stable and goes off after the
first wash is known as temporary finish and these
finishes disappears during subsequent washing
and usage.
Calendering
Embossing
Starching
Softening

On the basis of permanence

Permanent finishes:
If the finishing effect in the
fabric does not
disappear and remains unaffected through all the
conditions of wear and washing treatments, then the
finish is said to be permanent finish.
Sanforising
Resin Finish
Water Proof
Flame Proof

On the basis of permanence

Durable Finishes:
Durable finishes usually last throughout the
life of the article, but effectiveness
becomes diminished after each cleaning,
and near the end of the normal use life of
the article, the finish is nearly removed.
Wrinkle resistant

On the basis of permanence

Semi-durable Finishes:
A Finishing on the fabric is said to be semi
durable finish if it is stable to more than 5
to 10 washes and not afterwards.
Schreiner Calendering
Buckram Finish

On the basis of textile processes

Chemical finishes:
Chemical finishes are usually applied to fabric by padding
followed by curing and drying. These are also called as wet
Finishes.
Stiff and transparent
Flame Retardant
Soil Release
Water Proof
Crease Resistance
Softening

On the basis of textile processes

Mechanical Finishes:
Mechanical Finishes usually involved specific physical
treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in fabric
appearance. This is also known as dry finish.
Calendaring
Raising
Cropping or shearing
Sueding and Emerizing
Compacting
Stenter Frame

Some Important Finishes

Calendaring
Raising
Emerizing (Sueding)
Cropping or shearing
Compacting
Stenter Frame

Some Important Finishes

Stiff and transparent
Flame Retardant
Water Proof
Crease Resistance
Softening

Antimicrobial/Antisepti
c
Antistatic
Shrinkage Control

Calendaring

Passing the fabrics in between the pairs of

rolls under controlled conditions of time,
temperature, and pressure.
Two or more massive rollers are used to
compressed the fabric using hydraulic
cylinders pressure.
Pattern roll is responsible for the finished
appearance of the fabric and a bowl roller
serves the back-up pressure to pattern roll
and transport the fabric through machine.

Raising
Process of lifting a layer of fiber from the surface of
fabric, which stands out from fabric surface
Gives a raised or brushed appearance to the fabric.
Gives a soft & lofty handle to textile.
Also improves warmth but decreases the absorbency.
Subdues the weave/knit of the fabric.

Raising Samples

Emerizing (Sueding)
Process of rubbing the surface of fabric with emery
paper
Gives a peach-skin effect.
Makes fabric soft and luxurious in handle.
Difference between the sueding and raising is that in
raising the fibre ends are plucked out of the fabric,
whereas in sueding they are cut.

Cropping or shearing
o

The fibres which protrude from the surface of a

fabric are cut to an even height.

A spiral cutter rotates against a stationary blade and

cut-off any material protruding from the fabric
surface.

Compacting
o

Shrinkage is due to the stress on the fabric during

production and processing.

Hence, remove the warp crimp from the fabric.

Compressive shrinkage minimize the warp

shrinkage, replace the crimp which has been pulled
out in preparation.

Stenter Frame
A machine or apparatus for stretching or stentering
fabrics. The purpose of the stenter machine is to
bringing the length and width to pre determine
dimensions and also for heat setting and it is used for
applying finishing chemicals and also shade variation is
adjusted. The main function of the stenter is to stretch
the fabric widthwise and to recover the uniform width.

Stiff and transparent

o The purpose of stiff finishes is to increase

the fabric weight or make it bulkier.

Flame Retardant
Flame retardant (FR) fabrics for industrial and military uses,

represent one of few profitable business in the global textile

market.

What is flame retardant material??

Flame retardants are materials or substances that inhibit or

slow down the growth of a fire & increase the ESCAPE TIME.

Water Proof
A water-proof fabric, unlike a water repellent
fabric, is completely moisture proofed

Crease Resistance
The ability of the fabric to resist the formation of
crease or wrinkle when slightly squeezed is known as
crease resistance fabrics
The ability of a fabric to recover from a definite
degree from creasing is called crease recovery

Softening
o

It alters the fabric hand making the fabric more

pleasing to the touch.

The more pleasing feel is a combination of smooth

touch or sensation, silk like characteristics, and less
stiff of the material.

Softeners treated fabric is fluffier and have better

drape.

Antimicrobial/Antiseptic
Textile materials are carriers of microorganisms such as
1. Pathogenic Bacteria ( cause bacterial infection)
2. Odor generating bacteria
3. mould fungi (fungi produce such a growth)
4. Virus
Because of the adhesion of these microorganisms on
fabric surface.

Antistatic

Shrinkage Control
A machine or apparatus for stretching or stentering
fabrics. The purpose of the stenter machine is to
bringing the length and width to pre determine