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models Description
Adonis F. Velegrakis
Dept Marine Sciences
University of the Aegean
Synopsis
1 Beach morphodynamic models
1.1 Purpose
1.2 Static and dynamic bottom-up models
2 Static models
2.1 The Bruun (1962, 1988) model (rule)
2.2 The Edelman (1972) model
2.3 The Dean (1991) model
3 Dynamic models
3.1 Basic structure
3.2 Hydrodynamic models
3.3 Sediment transport modules
3.4 Morphological module
4 Beach retreat 1-D models
4.1 The SBEACH model
4.2 The Leont yev model
4.3 The Boussinesq Model
Governing expression:
l a
s
hc Bh
where s, coastal retreat; l, distance to the closure depth; hc, closure depth; , sea level
rise; and Bh, berm elevation
Note: There is no control by sediment size or wave characteristics, except by the most
energetic waves of the year that define the closure depth (see Presentation 2)
Much has been written for and against the validity of assumptions of the Bruun model (e.g.
Pilkey et al., 1993; Cooper Pilkey, 2004; Zhang et al., 2004)
Fig.1 Schema showing the parameters of the Bruun model. Key: S, coastal
retreat; l, distance to the closure depth; hc the closure depth; , sea level rise;
Bh, berm elevation; ht, hc + B (after Slott, 2003).
wb
ds d
dt
dt hb Bh (t )
Where s, beach retreat; , sea level rise; (t), instantaneous height of the profile
above the current level; and hb and wb depth at wave breaking and width of
the active beach inshore of wave breaking, respectively.
Thus, beach retreat is controlled by the wave parameters
Replacing and integrating leads to:
hb Bo
s(t ) wb ln
(
t
)
h
b
s a 0.068 H b
wb
Bh hb
Where hb the depth at wave breaking; Hb, wave height at breaking; Wb,
width of the surf zone defined as wb = (hb/A)3/2, where is a scale
parameter ( = 2.25 (ws2/g)1/3) controlled by sediment grain size (ws,
sediment settling velocity).
Thus, beach retreat is controlled by both the sediment size and the wave
parameters
3. 2 Hydrodynamic models II
A hydrodynamic (circulation or wave) model requires:
3. 2 Hydrodynamic models IV
Coastal wave models have a different construction (see below)
The ultimate forcing is the wind, which generates offshore waves that they
are driven inshore changing by the seabed friction
Although waves in the open sea transfer only energy (not mass), inshore
waves can generate currents (i.e. mass transport), generating waveinduced coastal circulation (flow)
Waves and wave-induced currents can interact with natural and/or
artificial structures inducing secondary circulation
kw
dE F
E F E Fs
dx
h
Sediment transport module
dh
q s ( De Deq
)
s dx
: wave angle
E w c g cos
x
The beach profile is divided into zones, with sediment transport varying along the
profile as (Leontyev 1996):
ws d
b
3
2
~
~
qW
f w u cos 3u U d s Fe Be
2 tan
U d x
f w: friction factor
1 x / xm
q R q R
1 x R / xm
3/ 2
x R x xm
q R q R exp c3 x x R / H o x x R
: maximum sediment transport
qR
c3=0.2-0.3
bedload and sheet flow using the expressions of Dibajnia et al. (2001),
suspended sediment load through the energetics approach
sediment transport at the swash zone using an expression based on MeyerPeter & Muller
Continuity equation
U: horizontal velocity
: sea level rise,
h: normal sea level
d=h+
b: bed shera stress
i= 1/15
v:eddy coefficient
u:effect of the non-normal velocity distribution
Ud
0
t
x
Mom. equations
U 1 M u 1 Ud
h 2 2h 3U
2U
U
g
hx d
t d x
d
x
x
3
xt
x 2 t
h 2 3U U 2U
2U
2U
U
2 U
h
xt x
x x
2
x x
U
2
3
3
x
Bi h 2
g 3 2
2
x t
x
x
hhxU
hx
x t
2
2
2 B hh U g
i
x
xt
x 2
b
Ev
d
qb
u cTc c t u t Tt t c
0.0038
ws d 50
Tc Tt s gd 50
uc , ut
Tc ,, Tt
ws
: settling velocity
Suspended load
1 b s DeU b
qs
a s ws
De
Ub
De
: effectiveness coefficient
QR
q b 1
1 gd 503
Cr
U
32
tan
U
1
tan
: Shields parameter
: porosity
: angle of repose
tan : bed slope
C r : parameter that takes different value whne the water moves onshore
Thank you!!
See you later
Fig. 2 Edelman (1972) model. Key:, Key: S, beach retreat; , sea level rise; (t)
the instantaneous height of the beach profile above the current level; and hb
wb the breaking wave zone depth and the width of the active beach inshore of
the wave breaking, respectively (after CEM, 2008).
initial morphology
Offshore
wave conditions
sediment size
hydrodynamics
sediment transport
new morphology
final morphology
Fig. 6 Depth-integrated 2-D tiadal flow model for a region of the English
Channel Bastos et al., 2003)
Fig. 7. 2-D numerical model results for wave heights (a) and wave-induced currents (b)
at the Negril beach. Conditions: Offshore wave height (Hrms) = 2.8 m, Tp=8.7 s. Waves
approach from the northwest. Note the diminishing wave heights and changed nearshore
flow patterns at the lee of the shallow coral reefs (RiVAMP, 2010)
1 .4
1 .3
1 .2
1 .1
700
y (m )
0 .9
600
0 .8
0 .7
0 .6
500
0 .5
0 .4
0 .3
400
400
500
600
700
800
x (m )
900
1000
1100
1200
0 .2
0 .1
0
Fig. 8. Wave height contours s (m) at beach with the breakwater (Karambas et
al., 2007)
Fig. 9. 3-D schema of wave transmission over a submerged breakwater, breaking and
wave run-up on the beach from a pseudo 3-D Boussinesq model (Koutsouvela, 2010),
y (m )
y (m )
700
600
500
400
400
500
600
700
800
900
1000
1100
1200
x (m )
2 m /s
10
9
700
8
7
600
6
5
4
500
3
2
1
400
400
500
600
700
800
x (m )
900
1000
1100
1200
Kt
Ht
Hi
85000
80000
S a n d T r a n sp o rt R a te s
(k g /m /tid a l c y c le )
25
10
5
75000
2
1 .7 5
1 .5
1 .2 5
70000
1
0 .7 5
0 .5
0 .2 5
65000
355000
360000
365000
370000
375000
380000
Fig. 12 Sediment transport due to tidal currents in a region of the northern coast of the
English Channel (Bastos et al., 2003).
Fig. 14 Discretisation of the SBEACH model (after CEM, 2008). It approximates the
sediment continuity equation with finite differences and a step-mesh of discretisation.
Vertical changes in the water depth h are defined by the horizontal gradients of sediment
transport rate q.
Swash zone
Surf zone
>
Fig. 15 Coastal wave zones. Longshore transport in the coastal zone occurs mainly in
the surf and swash (wave run up) zones (After SEPM, 1996). Key: h, water depth; H,
wave height; L, wave length.