TEXTILE

FINISHING
Finishing is a general term for a magnitude of processes
and treatments that a fabric may undergo
after it has been made (woven or knitted) and colored
(dyed or printed).

It is the final processing of the cloth. Its purpose is to

make the fabric more suitable for its intended end use.
Why are fabric finishes used?

 Fabric Finishes are used to improve the fabric in some way.

This could be:
 Improve the appearance - color, pattern or sheen.
 Change the texture of the fabric - embossing, brushing or
smoothing.
 Improve the feel - softer, crisper, and firmer.
 Improve the drape (how the fabric hangs) –weighted.
 Improve wearing qualities - crease resistance, stain
resistance, flammability, waterproof etc.
 Modify care requirements - easy wash, quicker drying times,
colorfast, less shrinkage.
What Finishing DO ????

 Provide aesthetic value

 Soften fabric or change the hand
 Adds to durability
 Adds to comfort
 Provide safety
 Improves performance
 Classification
a) Classification according to the nature of finish
 Classification
b) Classification according to degree of permanence or durability
 Classification
c) Classification according to performance
Aesthetic finishes

 These are finishes which change the appearance, drapability

and hand (feel) of fabrics including parchmentizing, softeners,
and stiffening finishes.

 Finishes that alter or create texture include burnout designs,

embossing, plissé, raised fiber surfaces (brushing, gigging,
napping, sueding, and flocking).

 Finishes that alter fabric luster include beetling, calendaring

(simple, glazed, moiré, schreinering), optical finishes
(delusterants, and optical brighteners).
Functional Finishes
These are finishes which improve the performance properties of
fabrics.

 Finishes that enhance care properties include durable press,

soil-release, stain and soil-resistant finishes.

 Finishes that provide comfort and safety include antistatic,

chemical-protective, absorbent, flame resistance, water-
repellent and waterproof finishes.

 Finishes that alter durability include abrasion resistant, slip

resistant, and shrinkage control.

 Finishes that provide environmental protection include

antimicrobial finishes, fume fading inhibitors, metallic and
plastic coatings, and mothproofing.
Resin Treatment
Resin Treatment
 Resin Treatment
Resin or Cross-linking agent

Cross linking agents create chemical bonds betn polymer

molecules to form a three dimensional network. This generally
restricts swelling and inhibits solubility and alters elastic recovery.
The most important cross linking agents are-

 Urea formaldehyde.
 Tetramethylol acetylene diurea (TMADU)
 Dimethylol ethylene Urea (DHEU)
 Dimethylol Dihydroxy Ethylene Urea (DMDHEU)
 Resin Treatment
Mechanism of Resin Treatment or why cotton Crease ???

When force is applied on cotton its polymer chains are under stress and hydrogen
bonds are breaks allow the chains to slip past each other’s. These re-orient the H-
bond and there is no force to pull chain back to previous position results a crease on
fabric.
F orce applied

Polymer chain

N ew H - bond w ith other

polym er chain
How to make cotton crease resistant?
Risk factors or Disadvantages
 SHRINKPROOFING
Controlled residual shrinkage is an important quality parameter for many
fabrics. For example, excessive shrinkage is undesirable for fabrics to be
made into garments. Here, the residual shrinkage should be less than 2%
otherwise the garment will not fit after it is laundered.
Residual Shrinkage
Residual shrinkage is the hidden shrinkage of a fiber, filament, yarn or fabric. In woven
fabrics the yarns of warp & weft bend round one another of which warp yarns bend
round the weft yarn to a greater extent. When the cloth is wetted, the yarns increase in
diameter and if the crossing weft threads were to remain the same distance apart as in
the dry state then the warp would have to extend. Such extension would require force for
its accomplishment. But as there is no such force and the cloth is under no constraint, the
weft threads move closer together in order that the warp yarns can remain the same
length. The cloth therefore shrinks in the warp direction. Alternatively
warp threads are straight then the weft threads are crimped and fabric shrinks in the weft
way. Such shrinkage in woven fabrics during wetting is simply termed as residual
shrinkage.
Sanforizing
Mechanical compacting is one method of reducing residual
shrinkage. The process forces yarns closer together and the fabric
becomes thicker and heavier. As a result of this, the net yardage
yield is reduced.

Sanforizing is a controlled compressive shrinkage process which is

applied on woven fabric to achieve shrinkage before making the
garments. After sanforizing the residual
shrinkage of woven fabric may be zero.

In this process, the fabric is first moistened with steam, to make it

more pliable, run through a short tenter frame (pup tenter) to
straighten and smooth out wrinkles, through the compressive
shrinkage head and then through a Palmer drying unit to set the
fabric.
Compactor
It is one of the important textile finishing machines which is used
specially for compacting 100% cotton knitted fabric such as
jersey, pique, interlock, plush, rib and sinker etc. It is also used
for cotton blended fabric in rope form. This types of machine
changes the dimensional stability of the fabric and presents
those into plaited form.
 Function of Compactor Machine
Compactor machine has done a lot of technical works, which are mentioned
in the below:

 It controls the shrinkage of fabric.

 Fabric GSM can be controlled by using compacting machine. In case of
high GSM, overfeed is increased; as a result, fabric width is decreased. In
case of low GSM, overfeed is decreased; as a result, fabric width is
increased.
 It has a significant contribution in twisting control.
 It compresses the fabric and reduces the thickness.
 It upgrades the fabric hand feel and import a silky touch to the fabric.
 It imports different degree of luster to the fabric.
 It helps to control proper fabric width.
 Smoothness of fabrics will be increased by using this machine.
 It also reduces the yarn slippage.