Presented by:

Boma Satria Sandy (03021381722119) Monica Regina Limanto

(03021381722095)
Giofan Abdi Albhara (03021381722087)
Perizki Juliansyah (03021381722125)
Ira Lusiana Nababan (03021381722089)
Rio Fajri B. (03021381722123)
Jeprizal Fahlevi (03021281722057)
A geographical form consisting of sand, and located in the coastal
areas of the sea. The coastal area becomes the boundary between
land and sea waters. The length of this coastline is measured
around the entire coast which is a territorial region of a country.

It occurs because of the wave that hit the edge of the land
without stopping, so that the erosion, destructive wave is called
destructive waves.
COAST
 Coastal erosion is the wearing away of land and the removal
of beach or dune sediments by wave action, tidal currents, wave
currents, drainage or high winds (see also beach evolution). Waves,
generated by storms, wind, or fast moving motor craft, can cause
coastal erosion, which may take the form of long-term losses of
sediment and rocks, or merely the temporary redistribution of coastal
sediments; erosion in one location may result in accretion nearby. The
study of erosion and sediment redistribution is called 'coastal
morphodynamics'. It may be caused by hydraulic action, abrasion,
impact and corrosion.
Primary Secondary Tertiary
Factors Factors Factors
 The ability of waves to cause erosion of the cliff face depends on
many factors.
 The hardness (or inversely, the erodibility) of sea-facing rocks is
controlled by the rock strength and the presence
of fissures, fractures, and beds of non-cohesive materials such
as silt and fine sand.
 The rate at which cliff fall debris is removed from
the foreshore depends on the power of the waves crossing the beach.
This energy must reach a critical level to remove material from the
debris lobe. Debris lobes can be very persistent and can take many
years to completely disappear.
 Coastal erosion has been greatly affected by the rising sea levels
globally. There has been great measures of increased coastal erosion
on the Eastern seaboard of the United States. Locations such as
Florida have noticed increased coastal erosion.
 Weathering and transport slope processes
 Slope hydrology
 Vegetation
 Cliff foot erosion
 Cliff foot sediment accumulation
 Resistance of cliff foot sediment to attrition and transport
 Human Activity
 Resource extraction
 Coastal management
DEPOSITION
 A spit or sandspit is a deposition bar or beach landform off coasts or

lake shores. It develops in places where re-entrance occurs, such as

at a cove's headlands, by the process of longshore drift by longshore
currents. The drift occurs due to waves meeting the beach at an
oblique angle, moving sediment down the beach in a zigzag pattern.
This is complemented by longshore currents, which further transport
sediment through the water alongside the beach. These currents are
caused by the same waves that cause the drift.
A geological process that consists of the transportation
of sediments (clay, silt, sand and shingle) along a coast parallel to the
shoreline, which is dependent on oblique incoming wind direction.
Oblique incoming wind squeezes water along the coast, and so
generates a water current which moves parallel to the coast.
Longshore drift is simply the sediment moved by the longshore
current. This current and sediment movement occur within the surf
zone.
 Longshore drift affects numerous sediment sizes as it works in slightly
different ways depending on the sediment (e.g. the difference in long
shore drift of sediments from a sandy beach to that of sediments from
a shingle beach). Sand is largely affected by the oscillatory force of
breaking waves, the motion of sediment due to the impact of
breaking waves and bed shear from long shore current.
 Beach sand is also moved on such oblique wind days, due to the swash
and backwash of water on the beach. Breaking surf sends water up
the beach (swash) at an oblique angle and gravity then drains the
water straight downslope (backwash) perpendicular to the shoreline.
Thus beach sand can move downbeach in a zig zag fashion many tens
of meters per day. This process is called "beach drift" but some
workers regard it as simply part of "longshore drift" because of the
overall movement of sand parallel to the coast.

Note:
1. Beach
2. Sea
3. Longshore current direction
4. Incoming waves
5. Swash
6. Backwash
 Beaches are the result of wave action by which waves or currents move sand or other
loose sediments of which the beach is made as these particles are held in suspension.
Alternatively, sand may be moved by saltation (a bouncing movement of large
particles).
 Beach materials come from erosion of rocks offshore, as well as from
headland erosion and slumping producing deposits of scree.
 The composition of the beach depends upon the nature and quantity of sediments
upstream of the beach, and the speed of flow and turbidity of water and wind.
 Sediments are moved by moving water and wind according to their particle size and
state of compaction. Particles tend to settle and compact in still water. Once
compacted, they are more resistant to erosion. Established vegetation (especially
species with complex network root systems) will resist erosion by slowing the fluid
flow at the surface layer.
 When affected by moving water or wind, particles that are eroded and held in
suspension will increase the erosive power of the fluid that holds them by increasing
the average density, viscosity and volume of the moving fluid.
 The nature of sediments found on a beach tends to indicate the energy of the waves
and wind in the locality.
Beaches are changed in shape chiefly by the movement of water and
wind. Any weather event that is associated with turbid or fast flowing
water, or high winds will erode exposed beaches. Longshore currents
will tend to replenish beach sediments and repair storm damage. Tidal
waterways generally change the shape of their adjacent beaches by
small degrees with every tidal cycle. Over time these changes can
become substantial leading to significant changes in the size and
location of the beach.
Changes in the shape of the beach may undermine the roots of large
trees and other flora. Many beach adapted species (such as coconut
palms) have a fine root system and large root ball which tends to
withstand wave and wind action and tends to stabilize beaches better
than other trees with a lesser root ball.
Erosion of beaches can expose less resilient soils and rocks to wind and
wave action leading to undermining of coastal headlands eventually
resulting in catastrophic collapse of large quantities of overburden into
the shallows. This material may be distributed along the beach front
leading to a change in the habitat as sea grasses and corals in the
shallows may be buried or deprived of light and nutrients.
 Destruction of flora on the berm by the use of herbicides, excessive
pedestrian or vehicle traffic, or disruption to fresh water flows may
lead to erosion of the berm and dunes. While the destruction of flora
may be a gradual process that is imperceptible to regular beach
users, it often becomes immediately apparent after storms associated
with high winds and freak wave events that can rapidly move large
volumes of exposed and unstable sand, depositing them further
inland, or carrying them out into the permanent water forming
offshore bars, lagoons or increasing the area of the beach exposed at
low tide. Large and rapid movements of exposed sand can bury and
smother flora in adjacent areas, aggravating the loss of habitat for
fauna, and enlarging the area of instability. If there is an adequate
supply of sand, and weather conditions do not allow vegetation to
recover and stabilize the sediment, wind-blown sand can continue to
advance, engulfing and permanently altering downwind landscapes.
Dense vegetation tends to absorb rainfall reducing the speed of runoff
and releasing it over longer periods of time. Destruction by burning or
clearance of the natural vegetation tends to increase the speed and
erosive power of runoff from rainfall. This runoff will tend to carry
more silt and organic matter from the land onto the beach and into the
sea. If the flow is constant, runoff from cleared land arriving at the
beach head will tend to deposit this material into the sand changing its
color, odor and fauna.
 Constructive waves are low energy waves that deposit materials on a
coast.
 As the waves approach such as coast, the friction between the waves
and the sea bed causes the waves to slow down at some distance from
the coast.
 The waves break gently over a long distance.
 Swash is powerful than backwash, the more materials are carried up
and deposited on the coast than are removed.
 Over time, the coast is built up.
 Destructive waves are high energy waves that’s erode a coast .

 They are common along steep sloping coasts where they are break

with a great force over a short distance.

 The backwash of the waves is more powerful than the swash.

 More materials are removed than are deposited on the coast.

 Over time , the coast is eroded away.

Introduction During the December 2004 tsunami event, several direct
responses from the coastal system (see Section 2.1) were identified. With
regard to direct impacts on shoreline positions and their orientation, the
coastal system is no longer in a balanced situation after the events of the
tsunami and earthquake. Several different processes will occur to achieve a
new equilibrium with differences in cross-shore and parallel coastal processes
(long-shore):
A. Short-term development of cross-shore (1-3 years): beaches, dunes and
coastline recovery;
B. Long-term, long-shore (10 year) long-term development: retreat of
coastline after land subsidence;
C. Longshore effects after the tsunami.
Two types of direct response of coastal systems to earthquakes and tsunamis can be
identified:
- Extion of sediment from beach / dunes and sedimentation on land or deep sea
(offshore)
-The coastal retreat suddenly due to the decline of land subsidence. The responses
are illustrated in figures below:
Short-term Long-term
Theoretically, what will happen to the coast based on the process of cross-shore sediment
transport in the short term is:
• The amount of tsunami-induced coastal erosion / dunes returns is estimated to be
related to the deployment of sediments in the cross-profile during normal wave
conditions.
• Returns are only possible when eroded sediments have been deposited in the active
transport profile, where normal waves can carry the sediments and move them back
into the coastal zone. As a result of offshore in deep water sediments far beyond the
exposure of the depth, some of the eroded sediments are thought to have disappeared
from the active profile.
• The amount of recovery (recovery) can theoretically be calculated based on the amount
of erosion and sediment in the cross-profile. That is by comparing the perpendicular
profile of the beach before and after the tsunami. Since accurate bathymetry before
the tsunami is not available, theoretical calculations of coastal recovery are difficult to
make.
• Based on sediment transport modeling, yielded the conclusion that
active zone is rather narrow for Aceh Beach and closure depths
ranging from MSL -3 m on the East and North Coast to MSL -4 m on the west coast. This
is thought to be the case because tsunami waves have moved offshore sediments
outside of these closure depths, leading to the loss of sediment from the active profile
Recovery of beaches and dunes has been observed in almost all
locations along the West and North Coast of Aceh. From more detailed
estimates of coastal developments after the tsunami (see aerial
photographs in Figure 2-5 for example) to date and from the results of
morphological modeling, it has been concluded that almost all short-
term recovery processes have occurred at the time of writing (Status :
February 2007, more than 2 years after the tsunami).
Theoretically, what will happen to the coast based on the long-term
cross-shore transport process as follows will be estimated:
 Land-degradation causes coastline retreat soon.
 Land subsidence also causes a gradual change in long-term cross-
profile: The profile will adjust to the shifting of the cross-sectional
shore to sea level. This causes further coastline retreat in the long
run.
 Long-term coastline retreat depends on the extent of land subsidence
in the Aceh and Nias coastal zones. Estimates of the coastline retreat
will depend on the magnitude of the soil drop.
From the theoretical point of view, which will occur on the coast based on the
longshore transport sediment transport process is as follows:
 As soon as the tsunami, the longshore sediment transport process will
straighten the winding coastline by redistributing the sediment along the
coast. This process has been observed in the months following the tsunami,
and was completed at time of writing (status: February 2007).
 As a result of changes in coastline orientation after the tsunami, locally
raised erosion or sedimentation may occur due to an increase in the amount
of sediment transport. This is more due to the long-term impact, of course,
depending on the degree of shoreline change (shoreline).
 Furthermore, due to the construction of a new coastal building after the
tsunami, in the down drift of the structure, erosion will increase if there is a
parallel coastal sediment transport.
In conclusion, based on a combination of coastal development processes as
described above, coastal developments along the coast of Aceh and Nias in the
future are estimated as follows:
 The coastline will not return to its original position as it was before the tsunami
due to sediment loss from active cross-profile.
 Nearly all short-term coastline recovery related to the deployment of sediment
profiles perpendicular is estimated at the time of writing. No further significant
coastal sedimentation due to this process (status February 2007).
 In the decade to come, due to the decline of land during the 2004 earthquake, a
coastline retreat of 10-75 m will occur on the western and northern coast of
Aceh.
 In certain locations or changes in erosion and sedimentation based on new
buildings or shoreline changes after a tsunami may occur in the future.
 For each location where the coastal building construction, coastline development
prediction should be made, include all the considerations as described above.