Waving and relaxing preparation

Waving and relaxing preparation

• From the time when early Egyptian curled

their hair by means of wet mud, and
through the Romans up to present day, the
desire of all women has been to possess
an attractive & beautiful coiffure.
• Curly or wavy hair is more attractive than
straight hair & at the same time provides
more opportunities for rearrangement in a
suitable fashionable styles.
Basically these processes involve breaking the
bonds holding the polypeptides chains of keratin
together, and restoring them in a manner which
imparts the desired shape to the hair

Hydrogen bonds Water

Salt Link Strong acids , strong alkali

Disulphide Bonds Reducing agents

 Waving

The first P. Waves :

Electric heaters + alkaline solution, based on ammonia and / or borax
to break salt and peptide,
later sodium sulphite was added disulphide bond

Disadvantages:
1- rebuilding by atmospheric oxidation
2- High pH 3- long Processing time

Major breakthrough came with :

Thioglycollic acid, capable of reducing disulphide bonds at
moderate pH and reasonable processing times.
 Reactions involved

polypeptide – S – S – polypeptide 2 Polypeptide – SH

pH values between 9-9.5 recommended by using ammonium

Hydroxide Bad small (Rotten eggs).

Sodium Hydroxide
Ammonia (Upper pH 10) , Monoethanlamine Not volatile
 Neutralizing or rebuilding by Oxidation :

this involve :
1- Oxidation of excess thioglycolate and the hydro sulfide groups on
the hair
2- Reduction of the pH
3- Drying

Can be achieved by:

1- atmospheric oxygen
2- more affective with hair dryer
3- most commonly used, hydrogen peroxide lotion.
Low pH Waving Lotions
1- increasing concentration 2- temperature or 3- Swelling agent

1) 19 % solution of ammo. thioglycolate buffered at PH 7 perms

in less than 10 minutes.
2) Ammoium thiogl. at pH = 6 + swelling agent (urea) to
accelerate the process
3) Glyceryl monothioglycollate, with heating cap.
CH2O . CO. CH2 -SH
I
CHOH
I
CH2OH
Low PH Waves Hazard

Low pH increase lipid solubility

Increase percutaneous absorption and toxicity.

Additives

Cold wave lotions are extremely reactive , additives should be tested

on mixing and after storage.
1) their effect on the pH of the solution
2) their effect on the reducing power.
3) the effect of pH and thioglycollate on the additives.
4) the combined effects on the hair, scalp.
 Wetting agents

The ensure contact and to facilities penetrations of the hair shaft.

Cationic can be used, but non-ionics (Polysorbate-80) are preferred.

Opacifiers
To give richness and mildness latex suspensions, or emulsions
The effect of waving lotions on the hair
Stress elongation
Normally the hair breaks at 60% elongation.

The stress / strain at the first inflection will never returns to normal.
1- some of the peptide links broken
2- hydrosulphide not finding them sufficiently near.

Relaxing

- Thioglycollate usually to mild.

- Sodium Hydroxide is the most common. In which the C-S bond of

cystein rather than S-S which is attacked.