Classification

&
Identification of Dyes

by

K.Prasenjit
Jr. Quality Assurance Officer

Textiles Committee
Mumbai.
 CLASSIFICATION OF TEXTILES FOR DYEING

TEXTILES

Cellulosic Protein Synthetic

•Cotton •Wool •Polyester
•Linen •Silk •Polyamides
•Jute •Polyacrylonitrile
•Hemp •Polyurethane
•Ramie •Polyolefin
•Viscose rayon •Cellulose Acetate
•Cupra - rayon •Aramid
Colours are sensory perceptions Produced to the eyes when
light was reflected from an object .
There are three primary colours viz.RED,BLUE,GREEN
Different shades can be prepared by additive or subtractive
mixing of these primary colours .
When all the three primary colours mixed together white colour
is obtained .
Colourants of the textiles materials may be classified as either
as dyes or pigment.
The term dye and pigment , almost interchangeable in common
use have different meaning in colouraion of textiles .
 DYES
A dye is substance which at
least during stage of its
application has inherent
affinity for the textile
material. Dyes are soluble
in the dyeing medium
during or at least in some
stage of the dyeing process.
Dyes can diffuse into fibres
and interacts with the
polymer structure of the
fibre.
All textile dyes are organic
chemical sythesised from
coal tar chemicals.
PIGMENTS
A pigment is a substance
used to impart colour and
which does not have
inherent affinity for the
textile material.
Pigments simply bonded
to the surface of the fibre ,
fabric or yarn by other
chemical agents.
Pigments can be either
organic or inorganic
substance.
 CLASIFICATION OF DYESTUFF
COLOURING MATTER

Synthetic Dyes Natural Dyes Pigments O.B.A.

Ready-made Dyes Ingrain Dyes Vat Azoic Mineral

Phthalo-
Water Soluble cyanine
•Azoic
•Direct Water Insoluble •Mineral
•Basic •Oxidation
•Acid •Sulphur
•Reactive •Disperse
•Vat
Dye Classes by method of application
Eight major dye classes are commonly used in textiles
according to method of application .
The five classes used mainly on cellulose fibre are Direct
dyes, Sulphur dyes, Azoic dyes, Reactive dyes and Vat dyes .
The three classes of dyes used mainly for protein fibres and
synthetic fibres are Acid dyes, Basic dyes and Disperse dyes .
All of them are sythesised from coal tar.
Direct dyes:
Are named so because they have natural affinity for the
cellulose and can be applied directly without auxiliary
chemicals.
In practice ,the dyeing rate and colour yield can be greatly
improved by adding inorganic salts such as sodium
chloride or sodium sulphate to the dye bath.
The greatest advantage of direct dyes is simplicity of its
application .
The greatest limitation of direct dyes is that their poor
wash fastness.
Wash fastness of direct dyes can be improved by resin
treatment of dyed or various after treatments.
Sulphur dyes
Are complex organic compounds sythesised by heating simple
amines or phenolic compounds in the presence of sulphur.
Sulphur dyes exist as a pigment form , which does not have
affinity for cellulose . They are converted to a water soluble
form having affinity for cellulose by treatment with a reducing
agent under alkaline conditions. After application to the fibre
sulphur dyes must be oxidized back to their pigment form .
The greatest advantage of sulphur dyes is relatively low cost.
The biggest limitation of sulphur dyes is that they are not bright
enough in colour for many use.
Azoic dyes
Are pigments that are sythesised inside the fibre by coupling of
two component neither of which is dye itself(insitu dyeing).
The two components are an aromatic diazonium salt and an
aromatic hydroxy compounds often a naphthol. Because of the
use naphthol as a component in the reaction , this class is some
time called as naphthol dyes.
Although the coloured material produced in azoic dyeing is
pigment , the azoic are classified as dye because the naphthol
component has affinity for the cellulose and is applied like a
dye before the azo component is added.
The greatest advantages of azoic dyes is that they provide an
economical way to obtain certain shade , especially red .
The greatest limitation of azoic dyes is that they sometimes
posses fastness to crocking and containing banned amines .
Reactive dyes

Are relatively new class of dye , which have been developed in

the 1950s

As the name implies the reactive dyes chemically reacts with the
fibre forming covalent bonds between the dye and fibre since
the covalent bonds between the dye and fibre are strong ,
reactive dyes have excellent wash fastness property.

Outstanding fastness is greatest advantage of reactive dyes .

Vat dyes

Are like sulphur dyes in that they are pigments which must be
reduced and oxidized during application.

They are named so because of dyeing carried out in wooden

vats .

Vat dyes have outstanding wash fastness and light fastness as

a class (exception indigo vat dyes )

The biggest disadvantage of vat dyes is their relatively high

cost.
Acid dyes
Are so called because they contain acidic group in their
structure .
The acidic groups reacts with basic groups in protein and
polyamide fibres forming organic salts .

Individual acid dyes vary greatly in properties and

compatibility.
Basic dyes
Are sometimes called cationic dyes because the
chromophore in basic dye molecule contain positive charge.
These basic or cationic group react with acidic groups in
acrylic ,cationic dyeable polyester, cationic dyeable nylon or
occasionally protein fibres .
The salt linkage formed are similar to those formed between
acid dyes and fibre containing basic groups.
A limitations of basic dyes is that their fastness to light is
sometimes not satisfactory especially on protein fibres.
Disperse dyes
Are used mostly for polyester , nylon and cellulose
acetate although they will dye some other fibres also .
The name disperse dye comes from the fact these dyes
are almost insoluble in water and have to be dispersed in
water to make the dye bath.
Disperse dyes were developed when cellulose acetate
was first marketed.
Disperse dyes are the only acceptable dye class for
acetate and unmodified polymer.
IDENTIFICATION OF CLASS OF DYES ON CELLULOSIC FIBRES:

(Source :IS: 4472 – (PART :I): 1967

Preliminary Test: Specimen +
1.50%DMF
Group: I 2.Conc .DMF
3.Glacial AcOH+ETOH

No Stripping / Partial Stripping

Reactive and
Ingrain Dyes (except azoic )may be present
Group II
Specimen +1% NH4OH
1.

Bleads of Dye ,Solution distinctly coloured

Colour solution + Colour solution + 10%AcOH

Bleached Cotton +Wool piece 
+NaCl 

Wool piece Dyed

White Cotton is approx.
Dyed to original Shade

Acid dye may be present

Direct dye may be present (If direct dye and basic dyes
are absent)
2. Specimen +Glacial AcOH  H2O 

Coloured Solution + Mordant Cotton

Mordant Cotton Dyed

Basic dye may present

Note : MORDANT COTTON - cotton is mordanted with tannic acid

3. Specimen +1 % HCL 

Dye Strips

Test for Direct dye if it is +ve

Direct dye after treated with resin

Group III

Specimen +Na2 S2O4+ 44% Na OH 

Dyes decolourises or change in shade

Oxidation (with H2O2 / AIR )

Group III Present Group IV Present

1.Test for Sulphur dyes
Specimen +H2O + Na2 CO3 +Na2SO4 

Coloured Solution +NaCl +Bleached Cotton

Place the test specimen +White cotton on

filter paper and reoxidize dye

White cotton is redyed and restore to original shade

Sulphur dye may be present

2.Test for Oxidation Black (Aniline Black)

Specimen +H2SO4+ Shake

Extract the dye

Extract + H2O
Filter

Spot the Filter Paper with 10 % OH

Spot turns red

Oxidation Black (Aniline Black) may be present

2. Test for Vat Dyes

Specimen +Formosul –G + 44% NaOH 

Specimen Decolourises

Original Colour restored on oxidation

Vat dye may be present

Formosul – G : 20 gm SODIUM SULPHOXYLATE

FORMALDEHYDE + 75 ML HOT WATER + DIL WITH COLD
WATER +50 GM MONO OR DIETHYLENE GLYCOL
Group IV
1.Direct dye after treated with chromium salt

Specimen ash in porcelain dish + flux Fused

Hot : Orange yellow

Cold :Greenish yellow

Direct dye after treated with chromium salt

Group IV
2.Direct dye after treated with copper salt

Ash + Conc. HNO3 

Blue colour

Direct dye after treated with Copper salt

Group IV
3. Direct dye after treated with Formaldehyde

Specimen + 5% H2 SO4 cool

Dropwise add 1%cabriole solution

Blue Precipitate

Direct dye after treated with Formaldehyde

Group IV
4.Test for azoic dyes / diazotised dyes and developed dyes

Specimen + 2.3ml Pyridine 

Repeat

Specimen bleads and Specimen does not

continuous to do so bleads

Azoic dyes Diazotised and developed

may be present dyes may be present
Confirmatory Test:
Direct dyes:
Specimen +5%NaOH 
1.

Mercerized Cotton + NaCl 

10min.

Dye on the mercerized cotton

not strip by 1% NH4OH

Direct dye is confirmed

2.
Specimen + cold
Ethlylerndiamine Shake

Colour Extract + H2O + cotton piece

 + NaCl
80 0c

Cotton stained evenly and stain not

removed by 1% NH4OH

Direct dye is confirmed

2.Basic Dye :
Specimen + 5%NaOH  5%NaCl 

Extract
Dye

Extract +Undyed Extract Extract

wool +10%AcOH + +10%AcOH +
Tannin Reagent Ferric chloride

Dye taken up by
Wool Coloured ppt. Black ppt.

Basic Dye
Confirmed
3.Sulphur dyes:

Specimen + Stannous chloride soln.

 lead acetate paper

Brown stain on lead acetate paper

Sulphur Dye confirmed

4.Vat dyes

Specimen +Ethylene diamine + glucose



Specimen Decolourises

Vat dye is confirmed

5.Azoic dyes: Specimen +Ethylenediamine 

Extract dye

Extract + Na2 S2O4 Extract +H2O 

Decolourisation Liquid becomes turbid & the

flakes of coloured pigment
settled down on standing

Azoic Dyes confirmed

IDENTIFICATION OF CLASS OFDYES ON PROTEIN FIBRES:
(Source :IS: 4472 – (PART :II): 1967
GROUP :I
Specimen +
1. 50%DMF
2. Conc .DMF
3. Glacial AcOH+ETOH

No Stripping / Partial Stipping

Reactive and
Ingrain Dyes (except azoic )
may be present
GROUP:II

Specimen +Glacial AcOH +  H2O 

Coloured Solution

Basic dye may present

GROUP:III Specimen +1% NH4OH 

Bleeds of Dye ,Solution distinctly coloured

Colour solution +Bleached Cotton Colour solution + 10%AcOH

+NaCl  cool +Wool piece 

Wool piece Dyed

White Cotton is approx. Dyed
to original Shade

Acid dye may be present

(If direct dye and basic dyes are absent)
GROUP:IV

Specimen ash in porcelain dish + Flux Fused

Test for presence of chromium / cobalt

Metal Complex / Mordant dyes may be present

1.

SPECIMEN +1% NH4OH  COOL +HCL

EXTRACT WITH ETHER

ETHER IS COLOURED ETHER IS NOT COLOURED

METAL COMPLEX DYE MORDANT DYE

MAY BE PRESENT (CHROME )
MAY BE PRESENT
Group:V

Specimen + 10% Na OH 
to dissolve

Na2 S2O4+NaCl +Bleached Cotton  cool

Oxidised with NaNO3+ AcOH

Cotton is dyed Cotton is not dyed

Vat dye is present

Azoic dye is present