Dobson Troubleshooting

Guide

For Instruments with the USA 1999 electronics and equipped with an encoder.
Download this guide:
http://www.cmdl.noaa.gov/ozwv/dobson/papers/T_Shooting_Guide.ppt
Definitions
• Photomultiplier Tube – (PMT): Cold Cathode tube that converts
light in to Electrical current through the use of stepped potential
grids.
– Light knocks electrons off the cathode (High negative potential)
– The stepped potential accelerates the electrons towards the anode,
and electrons are swept up from the grids (cascade effect).
– Electrons hit anode and go to ground through a resistor, producing
the signal.
• Sensitivity: Amplification factor of the PMT – controlled by the
high voltage applied to the PMT
• Dynode Chain – Voltage divider circuit giving the stepped
potential to the grids in the PMT
• Photon-Coupled Interrupter (PCI): A packaged LED-Photo
detector pair used as an optical switch on the shutter to
synchronize the amplifier output.
 Theory of operation
The optical part of the instrument produces two light sources, one (the
longer wavelength) strong (more intense) -- the other (the shorter) weaker.
The primary reason for the difference is the absorption by atmospheric
ozone of the shorter. The idea is to reduce the longer light intensity to that
of the shorter, by the use of an optical attenuator. The position of the
attenuator where the microammeter reads zero represents the amount of
ozone through which the shorter wavelength passed.
The electronics compare the signals – if one signal is stronger , the meter
reads above zero. If the other is stronger the meter reads below zero.
The PMT converts the light to an electrical signal the strength of which is
directly proportional to the light intensity. The motor spins a shutter that
allows only one of the sources to be seen by the PMT at a time. The
amplifier is synchronized to the shutter, so the signal from one source is
amplified with the sense opposite the other source. The signals are then
summed in the microammeter. If the signals are the same strength, the
meter reads zero.
 What can go wrong?
• Most common failures were in the older individual power supplies for
the Amplifier and High voltage section (Polytron and Philbrick). We
have yet to have a failure with the newer Lambda power supplies,
• The Bertan PMT supplies have been used since 1982 without failure.
• The resistors in the dynode chain are wire-wound, with 1% tolerance.
Some of these very old resistors have opened. If one is to be replaced,
a metal film must be used – no carbon resistors, as they generate noise
in this kind of circuit.
• Some instruments have the wrong size fuses installed, and were
blowing the fuses if all three switches were switched on at once. The
proper fuse is a 3AMP Slow-Blow.
• In 2002, one instrument had a failure in a fuse holder that caused the
fuse to blow when the instrument was plugged it, but not switched on.
 Getting started.
• Start with all switches off, the potentiometer on the micrometer fully on
(CW), both PMT (sensitivity) controls turned fully CCW.
• Is the Microammeter working? Take the leads to the meter off the
Dobson end, and touch the leads to your tongue – the meter should
read a small current.
• Turn leftmost switch on -- does the motor spin (Sewing machine
noise?)
– if not check the fuses (3 amp slow blow) – and the power cord.
– If the motor spins – we know we have power.
• Turn the middle switch on while looking at the meter -- did the meter
"kick" as the switch was turned on?
– The kick means that the amplifier circuit is working.
– No kick, check power supply voltages.
• If the meter does kick, then turn on the third switch & attempt a
measurement on the zenith -- use the left most PMT control first -- then
the right most -- what happened?
– If the meter at first is quiet, as the PMT voltage is increased, then suddenly
the needle starts flailing back and forth – check the PCI.
– If it’s really dead, then remove the lid and check the voltage to the dynode
chain.
• If the voltage checks good there, then check the resistance of the chain.
 Photomultiplier Tube Problems –
There aren’t many.
• The PMT does not have a hot cathode, so PMT do not “burn
out” with age
• If a PMT “sees” a bright light, especially with high voltage
applied, the cathode can be depleted of electrons – it will
become “tired” for a period of time.
– If the PMT is given too high a voltage for the light coming in the instrument,
it can be momentarily “dead”. It will recover if the voltage is reduced.
• A high voltage, and direct sun light can overheat a PMT, and
even destroy it – this has not happened in two decades with the
Dobson instrument.
• The precise position of the PMT in the instrument is critical, and
requires a verification of the position if the PMT is replaced.
R-dial (optical attenuator readout) and Q-levers
(Wavelength selectors)

Q2 R-dial
Lever Q1
Lever
Ground Quartz Plate (GQP)
and inlet window
 Cleaning
• The interior optics of the instrument are not to
be cleaned, except under direction of Bob
Evans (the Dobson guy).
• GQP and inlet window can be cleaned, but
perform standard lamp tests before and after
cleaning.
• Inlet window can be cleaned by breathing on it,
then wiping with lint-free clean wipe.
• If soap is used to clean the GQP, rinse it with
rubbing alcohol afterwards.
• Sun Director and lens can be cleaned at any
time.
 Removing the Encoder

The encoder connects to the R-dial

through a bellows connector, and to the
Dobson lid through a ¼-20 bolt. The three Access to Setscrew
big screws are leveling screws – do not
loosen these screws, unless the encoder Hold Down
zero/scan is a problem. Bolt

Leveling
Encoder Cap
Screws
Screws

Encoder Plate

R-Dial
Barrel (Bellows) connector access: Note that there might be
two setscrews.
 Leveling the Encoder to the R-dial
Under the maintenance menu, there is a subprogram to assist in the
leveling of the encoder. If the Encoder is leveled to the R-dial correctly,
and zeroed correctly, the counter will read 300+/-0.5 with the R-dial at
300.0 position against hairline. If you are attempting level the encoder,
first place the encoder bellows connector over the stub shaft on the R-dial
mounting thumbscrew, and place the leveling screws in to the sockets on
the instrument case. Screw in the hold-down bolt just to the point where
the leveling screws remain in the sockets. Then adjust the leveling
screws so that 1) the bellows connector is far enough down on the stub
shaft for the setscrew(s) to tighten on the shaft and 2) the lower ends of
the four cap screws that hold the encoder to the plate are equal distant
from the R-dial. This a process that requires some back and forth with the
leveling screws and the hold-down bolt. The hold-down bolt should be
tight when done and BEFORE tightening the setscrews in the bellows
connector.

This distance should be the

same for all four cap screws.
 Problems with Encoder/Counter
• If you zero the R-dial, and turn it to 300 -- what does it read?
– If you then turn it back to zero, is it still zero? If not, then the most likely
problem is a loose setscrew in the barrel coupler between the bolt that
the holds the R-dial to the shaft -- there might be as many a four setscrews,
two top and bottom.
– The bolt that the holds the R-dial to the shaft might be loose.
– Plate with the three legs is loose.
• If it is still very close to zero, and you get the same reading when you
turn back to 300 as you did before, then something not level (review the
slide before this one -- if it is very, very repeatable, and it's a large
difference from 300, then suspect the program of the counter.
• Electrical connections on the back of the counter can be a problem --
BE CAREFUL OF THE AC CONNECTION ON LOWER LEFT AS
VIEWED FROM THE BACK.
• The inline connection from the encoder to the counter can get loose –
check that connection.
There are pins at each end of the lid (under the rings) that are designed to fit in to
sockets in the base. When removing the lid, the lid must be lifted high enough to
clear the socket. When replacing, the pins must enter the sockets. If the lid is
raised or lowered without being approximately parallel to the base, the pin/socket
will “jam”.
Removing the lid – After removing the encoder.

Lift the lid, keeping it parallel to the base, until it is about 12 inches
above the base. Move the lid to a secure place. If you must place it
on the floor, place it on a clean cloth.

Remove the nuts on these studs before attempting to remove the lid.
Fuses – 3amp slow-blow.
AC Power and switches – each section is independently
switched.
Amplifier Section

Fuses, 3Amp
Slow-Blow

Shutter Motor

High Voltage
Section
 Block Diagram of Electronics

High Voltage section

PMT
control

Amplifier Section
Light PMT (Gain=1000)

Motor and PCI

Shutter

AC
power
 Block diagram of the amplifier circuit.

Input
from
PMT

Power to and signal from PCI

Lambda
Amplifier
AC power SWT30-522 DC power
Power Supply Board

Output
to
meter
 Block Diagram of the High Voltage Section.

Bertan
Lambda
PMT-10CN-3
AC power SWT30-522 DC power 0 to –1000 output to PMT
Power Supply DC-DC
Converter

Voltage
Control input
 1999 vintage amplifier circuit
Input from PMT
Circuit

Output to
Micro-
ammeter

Power
Supply
Connector

To PCI detecting shutter

position
 Locating the amplifier
The amplifier section is located inside the instrument behind the
spine on the left. There are two small holes to view the power-on
LED and PCI status LED located on the amplifier board inside the
box.
 Amplifier Section
Power LED – if this is
PCI LED – This LED will flash if on, there is power to
the shutter is rotated. This the board
shows that the PCI and Circuit
is working.

Amplifier Board OP-07

Lambda SWT30-522
Power Supply
 Another view of amplifier card

Power from Lambda

Connection to microammeter Connection to PCI

 Quick Test of the
amplifier
With the middle switch on, watch
the microammeter and touch the
back contact of the AC coupling
capacitor. The meter should
show the 60HZ from your finger.
PMT Circuit, Showing Dynode
chain and AC coupling Cap.

Amplifier Circuit

Dynode Resistors on other side of Board

High Negative
Voltage ~200 to
900VDC
Measuring the PMT Voltage
First, Put Black
electrical tape
over this slit.

Measure between these two points. Range should be – 0 to ~900 volts (There is an
inline resistor in many of the circuits to limit the max voltage.) If the max voltage is
1000+, think open resistor in dynode chain

Cover
removed
 Bottom View – the instrument must be tilted back on to
bean bags or other supports -- it’s top heavy.

The Shutter motor is The high voltage is

mounted on this plate mounted on this plate
 High Voltage section mounted on right bottom plate.

High voltage
output

AC
input
View into high voltage bay.

22M ohm bleeder

Resistor
Motor and shutter removed from instrument.
These three screws
hold motor bracket in
This shutter place (3rd screw under
drive has a cap. in this picture)
spare belt
installed.

Screws for
adjusting belt
tension under
here.
Before removing shutter and motor….

These four screws

must be removed.
Shutter wheel and PCI

Shutter must not hit the PCI – check by rotating shutter by hand
after re-installing shutter and motor.