Use of biotechnology in textile science

Submitted to:-Dr Saroj. S. Jeet. Singh

Submitted by:-Neenu Poonia
 Introduction

Biotechnology = bios (life) + logos (study of

or essence).
Biotechnology" was first used in 1917 to
describe processes using living organisms to
make a product or run a process, such as
industrial fermentations

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 History
 6000 B.C., Sumarians and Babylonians Knew the technique
of preparing beer.
 2500 B.C.,Aryans started preparing curd.
 2000 B.C., Greeks were probably first to prepare cheese from
milk ( cheese one of the first fermented food).
 1822-1895 Louis Pasteur, "The father of Microbiology and
father of Industrial biotechnology discovered that yeast
produced alcohol in wine and rod-shaped bacteria produced
acetic acid, cause souring of wine.
 1929, Alexander Fleming discovered antibiotic penicillin.
 1973, First successful genetic engineering experiments were
carried out in famous world laboratories.
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 Need for Biotechnology

 Reduce costs,
 Protect the environment,
 Address health and safety and
 Improve quality and functionality

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 Types

 Red biotechnology (medical applications)

 Blue biotechnology (aquatic applications)
 White biotechnology (industrial applications)
 Green biotechnology (agricultural applications)

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 Biotechnology (Textile)
• Biotechnology in Textile Processing examines recent trends,
techniques, and developments in the finishing and processing
of natural fibers. Biotextiles are structures composed of textile
fibers designed for use in specific biological environments
where their performance depends on biocompatibility and
biostability with cells and biological fluids.
• Primary objectives:-
 To develop environment- friendly production technologies for
textile industry.
 To save resources like energy and chemicals.
 To improve the quality of final product.

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 Secondary Objectives

 To increase basic as well as applied knowledge required to set

up quality standards for assessing textile materials using
physical, chemical and instrumental techniques.
 To develop standards and to support the fledgling non-textile
end-users by providing quality characteristics for textile
material assessment.
 Understanding of the structure-function relationships of textile
materials.
 Evaluation of the potential of existing and novel enzyme
activities on the properties of textile materials.

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 Advanced techniques

Advancement

Genetic Monoclonal Farming with

DNA Probes Biosensor
Engineering Bodies bug

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 Genetic Engineering
• Genetic engineering is an improved understanding of how
different genes are responsible for the various characteristics
and properties of a living organism, techniques have been
developed for isolating these active components (in particular,
the DNA which carries the genetic code) and manipulating
them outside of the cell.
• Application of Genetic engineering :-
 To improve the yield and quality of fiber crops.
 genetically modified silk
 Biohybrid Wearables
 Biofabricated Leather Analogs
 Climate-Control Apparel
 Monoclonal Antibodies

 Monoclonal antibodies are protein molecules with an amazing

ability to ‚recognize specific substances, even at extremely low
concentrations.
 Biocode Company has developed monoclonal antibodies as
very sensitive marking tool for the prevention of
counterfeiting.
 The technology has already been evaluated for the marking of
branded denims. Methods have been perfected for use in
nylon and acrylic resins
 Markers can also be incorporated into dyestuffs or applied to
surfaces using inkjet printers.

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 DNA probes

 DNA probes are another technology, which has grown out of

genetic engineering. Short pieces of DNA can be designed to
stick very specifically to other pieces of DNA and thereby, to
help identify target species.The technique can be applied, for
example, to distinguish Cashmere from wool and other goat
fibres.
 The initial impetus for application of DNA probes in the textile
industry has come from importers and processors of specialty
animal hairs who have seen a surge in trading and labeling
fraud, especially in the wake of recent high fibre prices. Now,
similar probes are being identified to distinguish between
cotton, ramie, kapok, coir, flax, jute and hemp.
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 Biosensor

• Another way in which biological systems can be used as

extremely sensitive analytical and control tools is biosensors.
These employ some change produced by very small quantities
of biologically active agents to measure and therefore, in
principle, to control chemical and physical reactions.
Application can be envisaged which incorporate biosensitive
materials into textiles, for example, to produce ‚intelligent
filter media or protective clothing which detects as well as
protects against chemicals, gases and biological agents.

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 Farming with bugs

• The active agent in many transformation processes is an

enzyme rather than the cellular living organism itself.
Enzymes are not alive themselves but are complex chemical
catalysts, which can, in principle, be produced by a number of
different methods, including non-biological synthetic routes.

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 Gene gun

• Gene gun: This device uses an electronic accelerator to fire

DNA coated microprojectiles (eg, gold particles) into living
cells to introduce new genes into these cells.
• Agracetus uses this technique for genetically engineering
plants.
• Agracetus is applying its gene gun technique on cotton and
soya beans.
• The agronomic traits of transgenic cotton focused on are pest
resistance and herbicide tolerance.

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 Application of white technology
Use and care
of textile

Enzyme
Textile
based
auxilaries
Detergent

Improvement Biotechnology in Leather

in Fiber textile Industry

Novel
Waste
fiber(Biopoly
managment
mer)

Chemical
treatment
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 Major Application in textile

Major
Application

Waste
Production(Biop Processing(Enzy
Managment(Bior Miscellaneous
olymer) mology)
emediation)

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 Production of several chemical
ingredients:-
• The production of bulk chemicals such as organic acids and
alcohols by white biotechnology contributes to savings in
energy, a reduction of gas emissions and the assurance of
industrial innovation and supply .A series of attempts had been
made in laboratory, through biotechnology to produce
traditional chemicals. These chemicals now are produced from
corn, beets, rice, potatoes, etc. In the near future we will be
able to have easy care apparel made with fibres spun from
chemicals that have been fermented from sugar for eg, corn
fibres .

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 Improvement in natural fiber

Fiber

Cotton Wool Silk

Silk derived
Synthetic Coloured
Hybrid Coloured Transgenic from
silk silk
spoiled milk

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 Cotton

• Genetic engineering research on the cotton plant is currently

directed by a two-pronged approach solving the major
problems associated with the cultivation of cotton crop,
namely the improved resistance to insects, diseases and
herbicides, leading to improved quality and higher yield.
• Genetic engineering and newer transformation methods allow
any gene form any source to be incorporated into the cotton
genome, whereas cross breeding is restricted to compatible
cotton cultivars. The transferred foreign gene(s) integrates
efficiently in to the plant chromosome. Then the integrated
traits are inherited and expressed like any other plant genes.
Thus, there is potential to improve cotton insect pest resistance
traits (which is unique and extremely desirable at the present
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time), herbicide tolerance, fibre characteristics, oil content,
 Colored Cotton

 Cotton with naturally coloured lint, other than white, is

referred as coloured cotton.
 In India, about 40 coloured genotypes of upland cotton
(G.hirsutum), mostly of various shades of brown and green
colour are available in the National Gene Bank of Cotton
maintained at the Central Institute for Cotton Research,
Nagpur .
 Coloured cottons are also being produced not only by
conventional genetic selection but also by direct DNA
engineering.

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 Transgenic Cotton

• Monsanto scientists obtained a toxin gene from the soil

bacterium called BT (which is the nickname for Bacillus
thuringiensis) and inserted it into cotton plants to create a
caterpillar-resistant variety. The gene is DNA that carries the
instructions for producing a toxic protein. The toxin kills
caterpillars by paralyzing their guts when they eat it. Plants
with the Bt toxin gene produce their own toxin and thus can
kill caterpillars throughout the season without being sprayed
with insecticide. Because the toxin is lethal to caterpillars but
harmless to other organisms, it is safe for the public and the
environment.

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• Carl et al., (2010) measure impact of Bt cotton to potentially
identify ways to use Bt more effectively and to reduce further
the use of chemical pesticides. For example, Arizona is using
Bt and other forms of pest control in a coordinated program to
eradicate pink bollworm (NCC, 2001). Continued research can
also identify new problems farmers face from changes in pests
and weather. In addition, comparative studies of the impacts on
health and the environment of GM and chemical pesticides
could be useful for decision makers. Finally, studies of the new
GM traits and crops in regulatory trials or have recently
adopted by farmers could help farmers and governments
determine which traits best fit farmer needs.

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• Another major breakthrough has been the ability to produce
cotton containing natural polyester, such as
polyhydroxybutyrate (PHB), inside their hollow core, thereby
creating a natural polyester/cotton fibre. About 1% polyester
content has been achieved and it has led to 8-9% increase in
the heat retention of fabrics woven from these fibres. It may
include greater fibre strength, enhanced dyeability, improved
dimensional stability, reduced tendency for shrinking and
wrinkling and altered absorbency.

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 Wool
• genetic modification of sheep to resist attack from blowfly
larvae by engineering a sheep that secretes an insect repellent
from its hair follicles and 'biological wool shearing'. An
artificial epidermal growth factor which when injected into
sheep interrupts hair growth. A month later, breaks appear in
the wool fibre and the fleece can be pulled off whole in half
the time it takes to shear a sheep.

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 Silk

• It has been created by Dupont scientists using recombinant

DNA technology and advanced computer simulation
techniques that design a molecular model to integrate all
information available about the structure of this strong and
elastic fibre. Synthetic genes are designed to encode gene
matching the silk protein. These genes are inserted into yeast
or bacteria to produce the silk proteins. The protein is
dissolved and then spun into biosilk fibres. The synthetic
spider silk may help to create super performing garments of
the future use in bulletproof vests.

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 Silk-Like Fiber Derived from Spoiled Milk

• A company called Qmilch makes fabric from protein found in

soured ‘secondary milk’ that’s no longer suitable for human
consumption, and would normally be thrown away. This zero-
waste fabric requires no harmful chemicals to make, and uses
less water in the production process than other milk-based
fabrics.

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 NOVEL FIBRES
• Biopolymers are produced by biological systems (i.e.
microorganisms, plants and animals), or chemically
synthesized from biological starting materials (e.g. sugars,
starch, natural fats or oils, etc.).They are more biodegradable
than vegetable or animal derived natural fibres.
Advantages:-They are fully biobased.
– Much lower “oil (petroleum)” is needed for product
– Lower amount of green house gases emits during their
production. Ingeo® (Polylactic acid (PLA) from
Natureworks) requires 60% less greenhouse gases and 50%
less non-renewable energy than other polymers.

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 Application of biopolymers

 Drug delivery systems (medical field),

 Wound closure and healing products (medical field),
 Surgical implant devices (medical field).
 Bioresorbable scaffolds for tissue engineering.
 Non-woven biopolymers can also be used in agriculture,
filtration, hygiene and protective clothing. Food containers,
soil retention sheeting, agriculture film, waste bags and
packaging material in general.

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 Methods of Manufacture
 Extraction and separation of agricultural resources.
 Partial modification of natural bio-based polymers (e.g.,
starch)
 Production by microorganism (fermentation)/conventional
chemistry followed by polymerization (e.g., polylactic acid,
polybutylene succinate)
 Direct bacterial fermentation processes (e.g.,
polyhydroxyalkanoates).

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 Classification of Biopolymers

 Polynucleotides (RNA and DNA), which are long polymers

composed of 13 or more nucleotide monomers;
 Polypeptides, which are short polymers of amino acids; and
 Polysaccharides, which are often linear bonded polymeric
carbohydrate. This group includes alginates, Microbial
cellulose ( MC ), Chitin and Chitosan,

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 Biopolymers with high potential

 Starch based polymers (packaging)

 Poly Lactide – PLA
 Polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHA)/ Polyhydroxybutyrate
(PHB)
 (co)PA – (castor oil based - PA11)
 Polybutylene succinate (PBS) and biopolyester based
copolymers
 Polyethylene Furanoate (PEF) - alternative for PET, made
from two building blocks, Furandicarboxylic acid (FDCA)
and Mono Ethylene Glycol (MEG).

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 Biopolymer

Polyuretha Polycaprol Polylactic Chitin and

Alginate Dextrin others
nes actones acid chitosan

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 Sodium alginate Fibre

 Sodium alginate is a polymeric acid, composed of two

monomer units (i) L-guluronic acid( G) (ii) Dmannuronic acid
(M) .
 It is non toxic and non irritant. Alginate fibre generates a moist
healing environment and is used for wound dressing.

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 Polycaprolactum

• They are thermoplastic biodegradable polyester synthesized by

chemical conversion of crude oil, followed by ringopening
polymerization.These fibers have potential for use in textiles,
especially in medical use. It is the combination of
biotechnology and nanotechnology that has resulted in the
creation of new fibers e.g. the fiber resulting from the bonding
of PVA polymer with carbon nanotubes.

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 Poly lactic Acid

• It is composed of lactic acid which is produced by converting

corn starch into sugar and then fermenting it to yield lactic
acid. It is used for the development of an improved suture.
Due to its high strength it has been investigated as scaffolding
material for developing ligament replacement or augmentation
devices to replace nondegradable devices to replace
nondegradable fibres such as Dacron.
• Application: Woven shirts (ironability), microwavable trays,
hot-fill applications and even engineering plastics.

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 Chitin and chitosan

• Both polysaccharides may be regarded as derivatives of

cellulose, where chitin bears an acetamido group and chitosan
bears a aminogroup instead of the C - 2 hydroxyl functionality.
Currently, the commercial source of chitin is shrimp shells.
But the polymer also occurs in the shells of crabs and lobsters.
Derivatives of chitin have been used to impart antistatic and
soil-repellent finishing to the textiles. While chitin is used in
printing and finishing preparations, while chitosan is able to
remove dyes from discharge water.

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• Onar et al., (2004) stated that environmentally friendly chemicals and
mild processes could be used to avoid the high absorbable organic
halogen compounds (AOX) load and damage to the environment from
the waste of wool plants. In this research, they sought to achieve a
new zero‐AOX processing alternative to conventional processes such
as chlorine/Hercosett processing and thus use environmentally
friendly enzymes and chitosan as a biopolymer. They studied
enzymatic, oxidative, and additive processes and various
combinations of them to improve the shrink‐proofing and antifelting
properties of wool. They performed our experiments with enzymatic
treatments using commercial protease preparations, such as Perizym
AFW, Alcalase 2.5L, Savinase 16L, and papain. The oxidative agents
were hydrogen peroxide and sodium hypochloride, and the additive
agents were based on polyurethane, polysiloxane, and silicone, as well
as chitosan, a hydrophilic and natural polymer. He attempted to
determine the agent or combination that best improved the
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shrink‐proofing properties.
 Bacterial Polyesters

 The bacterial polyesters, polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHAs) with

poly-(R)-3- hydroxybutyrate (P3HB) as the first homologue
produced by microorganisms. Bacterial storage compound
polyhydroxybutyrate copolymer (PHBV) named “Biopol” is
developed by Zeneca Bioproducts through fermentation of
PH3B followed by copolymerisation with PHV. It is high
molecular weight polyester and thermoplastic (melts at 1800
C) and can be melt spun into biocompatible and biodegradable
fibres suitable for surgical use.
 Advantages:- production from fully renewable resources, fast
and complete biodegradability and excellent strength and
stiffness.
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 Corn Fibre
• Synthetic fibre derived from a plant is Lactron. This environment
friendly corn fibre was jointly developed by Kanebo Spinning and
Kanebo Gohsen of Japan. Lactron, the polylactic acid fibre is
produced from the lactic acid obtained through the fermentation of
corn starch. As the material is compatible with human body, it is
being used for sanitary and household applications. In addition to
clothing the company is also promoting its non-clothing
applications, e.g. construction, agricultural, papermaking, auto seat
covers and household use. The energy required for production of
corn fibre is low and the fibre is biodegradable. Moreover, no
hazardous gases are created when it is incinerated and the required
calories for combustion are only one-third or half of those required
by polyethylene or polypropylene. It safely decomposes into carbon
dioxide, hydrogen and oxygen when disposed of in soil. Lactron is
being marketed in various forms such as woven cloth, thread and
non-woven cloth.
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 BIOFABRICS

 The production of a class of fabrics with special properties

called biofabrics.
 These fabrics will have genetically engineered bacteria and
cells incorporated into them that will enable them to generate
and replenish chemical coatings and chemically active
components.
 It aimed at producing fabrics containing genetically engineered
bacteria and cell strains to manufacture the chemicals within
the textiles thereby making the chemical stores within the
fabrics the self-replenishing materials.

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 Innovative Biotextile

 Technical textile have become an emerging area and these

developments are due to the technological improvement.
 This field call for the interdisciplinary conglomeration of
diverse scientific fields that contribute to engineer several
function into one fabric which has endless application in all
walks of life.
 Technical textile have become a vital part of industries
including car manufacture, space technology, agriculture and
biomedical technology.
 The range of products may be wound dressing, marquee fabric
or clothing for special technical applications.in all cases,
biotechnology play a major part in product development and
intermediate process
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 Medical textile
 The medical field has many innovative material and
application that may range from simple wound dressing to
complex tissue engineering technique and implants.
 Tissue engineering is the controlled revascularization of
epidermal tissue which require naturally occurring porous
polymeric support on which the cells are seeded with the
required factors for growth. In vitro growth of biological tissue
can be performed by the use of textile material as scaffolds.
 Products such as composite mesh with absorbable and non
absorbable barriers for intra peritoneal placement,
macroporous mesh and xenogenic and allogenic biological
meshes are some of the unique implant developed for tissue
engineering.
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 Healthcare textiles

 The role of fabric with antibacterial and antiviral mechanism

are currently important to arrest infection and disease these
mechanism are considered essential in hygiene products used
by many consumers.
 Many products such as antiviral towl roll and antibacterial
products are used in hospitals and hotels.
 Antibacterial textiles for hospitals have been developed with
the help of zinc and chitosan nanoparticles, enzymes and
ultrasound. The research serves to develop medical
antibacterial textiles that prevent infections due to hospital
gowns and sheets of hospital beds.

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 Intelligent textiles
 Intelligent textiles are those incorporating micro systems that
help to measure and observe vital parameters such as blood
pressure, pulse or breathing. Other application includes sports
and leisure wear that require thermoregulation based on
incorporation of phase change material.
 These textile are used for uniform of motor racing and
gasoline pump attendants and fire brigades among others
Enzyme catalyzed functionalized of fiber and immobilization
of enzyme are two technique that help in producing specialty
fibers with unique functional characterstics.

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 Packaging textile

• Polylactide (PLA) is an innovative material from plant

sources. It is commonly used in biodegradable catering dishes
and packaging. Polylactide is a popular material used by
apparel manufactures for high performances clothing and
technical textiles.

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 Enzyme used in wet processing

• Enzymes are proteins formed by long linear chains of amino

acids linked by peptide bonds. They are present in all living
cells which carry out vital functions in the metabolic process,
of growth & cellular reproduction, transforming & conserving
energy. They are biological catalysts capable of notably
accelerating the chemical reactions which occur in living
organisms. They are produced by cells, but they aren’t viruses
or bacteria & they can’t reproduce autonomously; they are
therefore “alive” even though not biologically active, in
determined conditions of pH, temperature, liquor composition
& so on.

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 Bioprocessing of fabric

• Bio-processing is the application of biological organisms,

systems or processes to manufacturing industries. Bio-
processing firms will rely mainly on inexpensive substrates for
biosynthesis, processes that will function at low temperatures,
and will consume little energy. The major applications of bio-
processing which contributes eco friendly process, saving of
cost, saving of water uses, ensures the quality, so on by using
bio-techniques.

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• Maiti et al., (2018) stated that biotechnology is making
significant contribution in enhancing eco-efficiency of textile
processing sectors and improvement in the quality of human
life for the coming decades. The development of innovative
strategies and advanced tools is crucial to move towards a
greener and sustainable textile production in near future.
Established biotechnological processes that are currently in use
demonstrate the potential of industrial biotechnology to
successfully provide ‘Greener’ alternatives. Several other
biobased techniques are emerging for almost all the major
textile wet processing steps with potential offerings such as
mild operating conditions, specificity, environmental
feasibility and economic benefits. The most important
obstacles to the commercialization of biotechnological
processes are lack of sufficient information on specialized
applications and relatively higher cost. Hence, continued
research on basic and applied aspects such as identification
extremophiles like halo-, psychoro-, thermo,
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• Rita et. al., 2008. conducted a research on application of
enzymes for textile fibres processing and stated that amylases
are used for desizing and for detergent formulations over the
past 40 years in application of cellulases for denim finishing
and laccases for decolourization of textile effluents and textile
bleaching .Enzymes can be used in order to develop
environmentally friendly alternatives to chemical processes in
almost all steps of textile fibre processing.

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Model for Enzyme Action:-

Lock and Key Model of Enzyme

 Role of Enzyme in Textile Processing
Enzyme Effects
1) Amylose Amylase is used in desizing that hydrolyses & reduce
the molecular weight of amylose & amylopectin
molecules in starch, rendering it water soluble enough
to be washed off the fabric.

2) Cellulase. Cellulase enzymes are used in cotton bio-polishing

which selectively acts on the loose fibers protruding
from the fabric or yarn surface. This enzyme can also
be used in bio-stoning of jeans

3) Pectinase Pectinase enzyme is used in bio-scouring of cotton to

remove hydrophobic (oils, fats) & other non-cellulosic
components (dusts, dirt’s). Retting of Flax and Hemp.

4) Catalase After bleaching with hydrogen peroxide (𝐻2𝑂2),

Catalase enzyme is used in the subsequent process
which functions to catalyze the decomposition of
hydrogen peroxide to water (𝐻2𝑂) & oxygen (𝑂2)
 Enzyme Effects

5) Protease Protease is used in the scouring of animal

fibers, degumming of silk & modification
of wool fiber properties
6) Laccase Laccase enzyme is used for oxidation of
dyes such as Indigo

7) Peroxidases Used as an enzymatic rinse process after

reactive dying, oxidative splitting of
hydrolyzed reactive dyes on the fiber and
in the liquor, providing better wet
fastness, decolorized wastewater and
potentially toxic decomposition
compound.
8) Ligninases Removal of burns and other plant
compound from raw wool.

9) Collagenases Removal of residual skin parts in wool

Enzyme Effects
10) Esterases 1. In development polyester finish removal of oligomers.
2. In development polyacrylonitrile preparation for better
coloration.
3. Polyester finish (removal of oligomers)
4. Reduction of hydrophobicity and electrostatic charges of
polyester

11) Amidase Finishing of Nylon

12) Lipase In detergent for hydrolysis of lipids

13) Nitrilase Finishing of Polyacrylonitrile

14) Xylanases Carbonizing of wool

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 Application of Enzymes on Textile
processing:-
Processess Uses
Fading Denim – fashion and colour.
Biopolishing Cellulases increase depth.
Biosoftening - wool Colour yield & shrinkage.
Print washing Brightens colour.
Silk degumming Higher depth.
Bio-scouring Opens newer possibility.
Bio-bleaching Denim – different effects.
Washing off Reactives Reactive soaping.
H2O2 removal Aids level dyeing, consistency.
Effluent colour removal Environment friendly.
Fiber retting and carbonizing Processing flax, ramie, wool etc
Detergent Blend of amylase, protease, lipase etc.
 BIOCATALYSIS

• Owing to the specific nature, enzymes have become an

important class of bio-chemicals in textile processing. Being
bio-catalysts, enzymes were not consumed in the reaction.
They were also used in the processing from a standing bath. It
indicated the active and secondary sites and how the enzyme
was larger than the substrate as it attached itself to cellulose
forming a complex in which the concentration of the reactants
increased thousands times due to which the reaction
proceeded. The substrate was broken into degradation products
making the enzyme available to attach itself again to another
substrate and the cycle was repeated and thereby the enzyme
became a biocatalyst.

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 Bio-singeing

• Singeing is a process of removal of protruding fibers from the

surface of the yarn of the fabric in order to improve the lustre
and Smoothness of the material. The cellulase Enzymes
replacing convention singeing operation by burning protruding
fibres. This process is known as bio-singeing.
• Mostly Bio – singieng is used for lose fabrics (knitted
fabrics).

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 Enzymatic Desizing

 Desizing is done in order to remove the size from the warp

yarns of the woven fabrics.
 The major portion of the size consists of starch, wax and
tallow. All these remain on the warp yarns even after weaving
the cloth.
 Sizing Material:- a) Starch: Corn, Potato, Sago, CMC
(Carbon Methyl Cellulose), CMS (Carbon Methyl Starch).
 b) Natural gums: Locust bean, Tragacanth .

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 Theory of Desizing

• Enzyme are complex organic soluble by catalyst formed by

living organisms that catalyze chemical reaction in biological
process. Amylases are enzymes that hydrolyse and reduce the
moleculer weight of amylase and amylopectin molecule in
starch. The traditional approach is enzymatic Desizing in
which α -amylase or diastase enzyme is used to attack the 1:4
glycosidic links in the starch breaking down the
macromolecules into small soluble saccharides such as maltose
and glucose. Enzymatic Desizing is safer than acid Desizing
where cellulose may also get hydrolysed if the concentration
of acid is higher than the optimum value.

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 Phases of Desizing

1. Preparation of the desizing mixture

2. Saturation
3. Digestion
4. Washing

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 Stages of Enzymatic Desizing

Impregnation Incubation After-wash

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 Advantages
a) No risk of mildew formation on fabric in enzymatic desizing,
which observed in rot steeping or acid desizing process.
b) No risk of hydro-cellulose formation in fabric, which are seen
in the acid desizing.
c) There is no risk of shrinkage problem which can be observed
in case of alkali desizing.
d)Less time consuming process so higher production can be
achieved. It is also a economic process
e) Fiber damage is very less.
f)Amylase enzyme used in desizing is bio-degradable &
environment friendly. So, effluent load from this process is
very less
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• Aksel et al., (2009) stated that Desizing was performed with
an amyloglucosidase/pullanase enzyme instead of a
conventional amylase enzyme in order to hydrolyze starch into
single glucose units. Multifect 5000L glucose
oxidase enzyme was used to yield hydrogen peroxide from the
glucose generated during desizing.This enzyme has less
auxiliary demand; lower environmental impact; and energy
and water savings compared to the conventional desizing.

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 Enzymatic Bio-Scouring

 Bioscouring is a process by which alkaline stable pectinase is

used to remove pectin and waxes selectively from the cotton
fibre.
 Pectinase, as the name suggests, hydrolyses pectins present in
cotton as a non-cellulosic impurity.
 This process is substrate-specific and does not alter the
cellulose component.
 It takes place at lower temperatures and does not swell or
remove the seed coat fragments called motes, which can be
beneficial when scouring for the 'natural look'.

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 Types of enzymes

• Pectinase:- Pectinases are used for the removal pectic

substances from cotton.
• Lipases:- They are used for the removal of natural fatty
substances from cotton
• Proteases:- proteases are enzymes that catalyse the hydrolysis
of proteins.

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 Mechanism of bio-scouring

• To break the outer pectin layer of cotton fiber. Pectinase

enzymes can be used. In general, it can be said that the
pectinases or pectinolytic enzymes catalyze the random
hydrolysis 1, 4- alpha-D-galactosiduronic linkages in pectin
substance.

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 Types of enzymes
 Protopectinases: These enzyme catalyze the solubilisation of
insoluble protopectin and give rise to highly polymerized
soluble pectin.
Protopectin (Insoluble) + H2O Protopectinases Pectin ( Soluble)
 Pectin Esterases: These liberate pectin and methanol by de-
esterifying the methyl ester linkages of pectin backbone. They
are active in the pH range of 4-8. Optimal temperature range
for maximum activity is 40- 50 degree C.
 Pectin Lyases:Transeliminase or shortly lyase (depolymerase)
catalyses the cleavage of α (1 4) bonds in polygalacturonan
chain without releasing water and creating a double bond
(producing an unsaturated product) between the C4 and C5
atoms. Endo and exo enzymes work within or at the end of the
chain, respectively, similar to the polygalacturonases.
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 Advantages of Bio-Scouring

Saving of water & energy.

Lower environmental impact & easier to treat
wastewater.
Better compatibility with other processes, machinery &
materials.
Lesser attacks on the fiber structure, loss of weight &
resistance.
In the case of knitted fabrics, combining bio-scouring
with bio-polishing using Cellulase, with a Jet or
Overflow machine.
Possibility of scouring of cotton even when blended
with more delicate fibers.
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 Comparison
Bio-scouring Alkaline-scouring

Blend of Enzymes-Pectinase + Protease Sodium Hydroxide

Removes Pectin, protein, Wax, Oil etc Remove Pectin, Protein, Wax, Oil,
Cellulose
Soft Handle Harshness

cellulose with complete removal of cellulose with complete removal of

Impurities Impurities and partial Callulose
No core Alkali neutralization, thus less Required core alkali neutralization, thus
washing cycle more washing cycle
Direct cost is more Direct cost is less

Overall cost is less (Grey to finished) Overall cost is more (Grey to finished)

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• Luis et. al.,(2006) focused on obtaining enzymes that can
carry out the scouring task in an effective way, allowing at the
same time a decrease of the industrial costs of water and
energy associated with the process.Bioscouring of
cotton using enzymes produced in Sclerotium rolfsii . The
weight loss after bioscouring was more efficient
with enzymes induced by pectin because these have a specific
activity for removing pectin content from the cotton fiber. The
effectiveness of the enzymatic scouring was equivalent or
better than that achieved by the conventional alkaline process.

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 Bleaching

• Bleaching is a process by which the natural colouring matter

and any other colouring matter is removed from natural fibers
or process discoloration from man-made fibers.
Objectives :- Removal of colored impurities.
 Removal of the seed coats.
 Minimum tendering of fibre.
 Technically reliable & simple mode of operation.
 Low chemical & energy consumption.

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 Mechanism of Bleaching
• The mechanism of bleaching is very complicated and not
completely understood. One opinion is that the color
producing agents in natural fibers are often organic
compounds containing conjugated double bonds. Decoloration
can occur by breaking up the chromophore, most likely
destroying one or more of the double bonds within the
conjugated system. The bleaching agents either oxidize or
reduce the coloring matter thus whiteness obtained is of
permanent nature.

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• Nielsen et al. (2009) on bleach clean-up shows that the impact of enzyme
production is low compared to the impact of water, energy and chemicals
that are saved.
• Nina Spika et., al (2013) showed a new commercial bio-bleaching process
for cellulose fibres. The process runs enzymatically with arylesterase
enzymes (EC 3.1.1.2) and hydrogen peroxide. The enzyme system
catalyses the perhydrolysis of propylene glycol diacetate. During the
reaction propylene glycol and peracetic acid as a bleaching agent are
formed in situ. The main advantage of the bleaching with peracetic acid is
that a satisfactory degree of whiteness of a cotton fabric can be obtained at
65 °C at a neutral pH. The bleaching performance of the new bio-bleaching
process on a traditionally alkaline-scoured and bio-scoured 100 % cotton
fabric and the feasibility of a one-bath bio-scouring/bio-bleaching pre-
treatment were investigated. The whiteness degrees, tenacities at maximum
loads and water absorbencies of the treated cotton fabrics were compared.
The hydrogen peroxide and peracetic acid concentrations, pH and TOC
values of the remaining treatment solutions were measured. The research
showed that the new bio-bleaching system has a powerful bleaching ability
under mild process conditions and that bio-scouring and bio-bleaching can
be efficiently combined in a one-bath process.
 Advantage of bleaching

 It can be used on continuous equipment.

 Permanent Whiteness
 Simultaneous Scouring/ bleaching and continuous
bleaching possible
 Degradation is less.
 Less water is required with peroxide bleaching and there is
no need for souring after bleaching.
 Peroxide bleached goods are more absorbent than
hypochlorite bleached goods.

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 Bio- Carbonizing

• In the bio-carbonizing process the goods are treated with a

cellulose enzyme based formulation “ chemizyme UZ” to
achieve dissolution of cellulosic component. The goods are
padded in a warm solution of this product and batched on a
roll under normal conditions and are washed off after 12-16
hours.

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 Retting of flax

• Useful flax fibres are separated from the plant's tough stems
through a process called retting. Traditional retting methods
consume large quantities of water and energy. Bacteria, which
may be bred or genetically engineered to contain necessary
enzymes, can be used to make this a more energy efficient
process.

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 Anti-shrink Treatment for Wool

• A process conventionally used for wool shrink-proofing is

chlorination. This process degrades the exo-cuticle of the
wool, forming cysteic acid residues and protein losses. This
process has been replaced by proteinases treatment due to their
high specificity and much lower environmental impact.
However, proteinase treatment leads to protein degradation,
resulting in deterioration of fiber strength and limited shrink
resistance.

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• Degumming is the silk refining process which includes
removal of sericin , natural wax, some colouring component
and mineral along with other particles from silk
fiber/yarn/fabric. Enzyme such as trypsin, papain, bacterial
protease and lipase are used for degumming process. Morever
the bacterial protease has also been found to be more effective
than trypsin and papain of sericin.

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• Freddi et al.,(2013) resulted that a crêpe silk fabric was
treated with different alkaline (3374-L, GC 897-H), neutral
(3273-C), and acid (EC 3.4 23.18) proteases with the aim to
study their effectiveness as degumming agents. Proteases were
used under optimum conditions of pH and temperature, while
enzyme dosage (0.05–2 U/g fabric) and treatment time (5–
240 min) were changed in order to study the kinetics of sericin
removal. Degumming loss with soap and alkali was 27 wt.%.
The maximum amount of sericin removed in 1 h was 17.6, 24,
and 19 wt.% for 3374-L (2 U/g fabric), GC 897-H (1 U/g
fabric), and 3273-C (0.1 U/g fabric), respectively. Under the
experimental conditions adopted, EC 3.4 23.18 was almost
ineffective as a degumming agent. Degumming loss increased
as a function of the treatment time, reaching a value of
25 wt.% with 1 U/g fabric of 3374-L. The morphological
analysis showed that sericin was completely removed from the
warp yarns of the crêpe fabric, while the highly twisted weft
yarns still exhibited the presence of sericin deposits
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 Bio-polishing

Bio-polishing is a finishing process that enhances fabric quality

by decreasing the pilling tendency and fuzziness of (cellulose)
knitted fabrics.
Objective of Bio-Polishing :-
 To removes protruding fibres & slubs
 To removes Hairiness, fluffs and pills .
 To Prevented material sticking .
 To softens fabric hand & improved handle .
 To achievement of surface smoothness and a clear structural
appearance & improved luster.

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 Process of Bio-polishing

There are two process of Bio-polishing .

• Dyeing followed by bio-polishing.
• Bio-polishing before dyeing .

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 Application Method

• Enzymatic cellulose degradation is also possible during

reactive dyeing. Here the dyeing process as well as bio-
polishing will be affected. We can applied this process Number
of washes, time, cost and energy can be saved by this one bath
method. However, it should be noted that there is some
reduction in colour yield of reactive dyeing. This is because
reactive dyeing is carried out in acidic pH during bio-
polishing. But precaution is taken during addition of soda-ash
as reactive dyes require alkaline condition for its fixation. The
fabric is made neutral before adding soda-ash. It is found that
neutral stable enzymes are more suitable in this type of one
bath treatment.

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 Advantages & Disadvantages

 Depth of shade increases when enzyme treatment is given

before dyeing but the depth decreases when enzyme treatment
is given after dyeing.
 Wash fastness of the enzyme treated sample after dyeing is
good but Wash fastness of the enzyme treated sample before
dyeing is very poo .
 One bath application saves energy, time & cost but the bio-
polishing effect is not as good as the two bath method .
 Decreases the Pilling tendency .
 Loss in weight.
 Loss in strength.

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 Enzyme wash

• Enzyme washing is a laundering process that uses enzymes to

clean clothing or to finish cotton. It is environmentally
friendly wash.
OBJECTIVE:-
 To remove the size material from the garments.
 To remove the starch present on the garments.
 For soft feeling to wear the garments.
 To increase the color fastness and rubbing fastness.
 Especially develop the “Bio-polishing’’ affect cotton/Denim.
 Enzyme improves the anti-pilling properties.

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 Phases of Enzymatic Wash

Enzymatic
Desizing Softening
wash

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 Effect of Enzyme wash

 Use of cellulose making the seams, hems, and pockets more

noticeable
 Salt pepper effect is color contrast effect.
 Faded garment with acid cellulose enzyme provides less color
contrast in proportion to garment washed with neutral
cellulose enzymes. Garment load size of the machine is 35-40
jeans per machine and it cannot be overloaded.
 After enzymatic desizing process, size materials were removed
from the fabric and for softening, the stiffness of denim fabric
has been decreased which indicating the increase of fabric
softness.

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 Advantages of enzyme washing

 Soft handle and attractive clean appearance is obtained.

 No severe damage to the surface of yarn.
 Simple process handling and minimum effluent problem.
 Better feel to touch and increased gloss or luster.
 Prevents tendency of pilling after relatively short period of
wear.
 Can be applied on cellulose and its blend.
 Due to mild condition of treatment process is less corrosive.
 More reproducible effect can be obtained.

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 Enzyme Inactivation
 To prevent any damage of the fabric after the finishing
operation it is very essential that the reaction be terminated at
the end of treatment by enzyme inactivation. If the enzyme is
not inactivated entirely then at the end of the reaction fibres
get damaged and even extreme cases total destruction of the
material may result. The enzyme inactivation is therefore of
great importance from the technical point of view.
There are two distinct process of termination of enzyme:-
1) Hot treatment at 80 0C for 20 min.
2) By raising the pH to 11–12.

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 Finishing of cotton knits

• Cellulose enzyme treatments increasingly find applications in

cotton hosiery sector to enhance aesthetic feel as well as
surface clarity. Ultrazyme Super is an enzyme- based
formulation, well suited for use in winches or high turbulence
soft flow machines. Adequate caution must be exercised to
deactivate residual enzyme by elevating temperatire to around
80-85c, otherwise the reaction would continue to take place
resulting in loss of physical strength of goods.

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 Chowdary (2018) Temperature affects the performance of
cellulose on cotton/bamboo knitted fabric. Enzymatic
treatment causes increase in weight loss with increase in
temperature. It has been observed that increase in temperature
decreases the enzyme activity rapidly and the enzyme action
comes to almost zero and the enzymes are permanently
deactivated at 70°C. With increase in temperature rating of
pilling improves until enzyme deactivation temperature is
reached. Weight loss due to abrasion is also low at 70ºC when
compared with other temperatures. Higher relative colour
strength of enzyme treated cotton/bamboo knitted fabric at
50°C is due to smooth and clean surface at optimum enzyme
activity with minimal diffused scattering.

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 Bio Detergent

 Washing powders are referred to as ‘biological’ because they

contain enzymes. Enzymes are now available that can degrade
a wide range of stains and their use allows milder washing
conditions at lower temperatures which saves both energy and
protect to the fabric.
 Liquid Alive® Enzyme Digestant is a stain remover, enzyme
digestant and deodorizer recommended for spot cleaning and
deodorizing carpets, upholstery, textiles, vinyl, leather and
synthetics. This product neutralizes offensive odours and
actually digests protein and organic stains and soils. Can be
used as pre-spot treatment before shampooing or laundering
Dissolves grease, dirt and oil based stains.
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 Enzyme used in detergent

Enzyme Stain

Protease To break down protein stains.

Amylase For removing starch soiling.

Lipase To break down fats and oils.

Cellulose To keep cotton cloth looking new

like.

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• Nielsen and Skagerlind (2007) conducted an LCA study on a
model detergent in which four enzymes (protease, lipase,
amylase and cellulase) replaced three surfactants (ethoxylated
alcohol, linear alkyl benzene sulfonate and sodium soap). The
results show that the impact of enzyme production is low
compared with the impact of surfactant production and that use
of enzymes saves energy in the use phase and reduces
contribution to aquatic toxicity in the disposal phase.

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 Discharge Printing on Cotton Fabrics
Using Enzymes
 Discharge printing is a method where the pattern is produced
by the chemical destruction of the original dye in the printed
areas.
 Recently, the environmental and industrial safety conditions
increased the potential for use of enzymes in textile processing
to ensure eco-friendly production.
 Enzymatic discharging printing carried out with Phenol
oxidizing enzyme such as Peroxidase with hydrogen peroxide
by selectively discharged reactive dyes from the cotton fabric
at selected areas creating a printed surface

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 Application of Enzymes in Discharging
Printing
The cotton samples shall printed with an enzyme printing paste
using hand screen printing technique as required recipe. The
printed cotton samples shall allow drying at ambient condition
then it can leave in an oven for different Intervals of time and
at different temperatures. Finally washing was carried out.
Advantages:-Elimination of formaldehyde
 Energy Saving
 Reduction of strength loss
 Environmental friendly

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 Enzymatic dyeing
 In recent years, liposomes have been examined as a way of
delivering dyes to textiles in a cost-effective and
environmentally sensitive way. They are nontoxic,
biodegradable, and can encapsulate a wide range of solutes. In
addition, the main advantages of liposomes are a clear
reduction in dyeing temperature (about 10°C as com‐ pared to
conventional dyeing), improved quality of the textiles
produced, with additional benefits with respect to material
weight yield during subsequent spinning, improved
smoothness and mechanical properties of the dyed textiles, and
a clear reduction in the con‐ tamination load of the dye baths.
liposomes have been used in the textile industry as a carrier for
auxiliary materials (leveling, retarding and wetting agents) in
dyeing, mainly for wool dyeing, and for finishing processes .
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 The dyeing of wool and wool blends with the aid of liposomes
has demonstrated better quality, energy saving and a reduction
in the environmental impact and also the temperature could be
reduced, resulting in less fiber damage. Moreover, dye bath
exhaustion was shown to be over 90% at the lower
temperature (80°C) used, resulting in significant savings in
energy costs. The impact of the dyeing process on the
environment was also considerably lower, the COD being
reduced by about 1000 units .
 Therefore, liposome-based technology is an alternative, eco-
friendly method, which could reduce the environmental
impact, offering technical and economic advantages for the
textile industry
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 Waste Management(Bioremediation)

• Biotechnology can be used in new production processes that

are themselves less polluting than the traditional processes and
microbes or their enzymes are already being used to degrade
toxic wastes. Waste treatment is probably the biggest industrial
application of biotechnology. Specific problems pertaining to
the textile industry included:
 Decolourization of the Dye House Effluent Using Enzymes:
 Toxic heavy metal compounds

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 DECOLOURISATION OF DYES BY
USING BIOTECHNOLOGY
• The use of lignin degrading white-rot fungi has attracted
attention as these organisms are able to degrade a wide range
of recalcitrant organic compounds such as polycyclic aromatic
hydrocarbons, chlorophenol, and various azo, heterocyclic and
polymeric dyes. The major enzymes associated with the lignin
degradation are laccase, lignin peroxidase, and manganese
peroxidase. The Trametes Modesta laccase showed the highest
potential to transform the textile dyes into colourless products.
The rate of the laccase catalyzed decolourization of the dyes
increases with the increase in temperature up to certain degree
above which the dye decolourization decreases or does not
take place at all. The optimum pH for laccase catalyzed
decolourization depends on the type of the dye used. the
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structure of the dye as well as the enzymes play 99 major role in
• Sathian et al., (2012) stated that a white rot fungi, Ganoderma
lucidum, was utilized to treat the textile dye wastewater. RSM
was applied to optimize the process parameters. Fro the
results, it was found that a maximum of 81.4% colour removal
and 91.3% COD reduction occurs at the optimized condition.
The UV spectrum confirms the decolouration. Various models
were tried to study the kinetics of textile dye wastewater
follows first-order kinetics. Hence, it was concluded that
Ganoderma lucidum could be utilized for the effective
treatment of textile dye wastewater.

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 Metal and toxin removal

• The potential for using selected fungi to absorb heavy metals

from effluent streams . Species such as the ligninase-producing
white wood rot fungus have already been successfully applied
in the paper and pulp industries for removing lignin-bound
chlorine. They are also effective against biphenyls, aromatic
hydrocarbons and chlorinated compounds such as PCPs and
DDT.Other fungi have been used to remove highly toxic
tannins from tannery effluents.

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• Babalola et al., (2017) showed that heavy metal pollution
poses a major threat to all life forms in the environment due to
its toxic effects. These metals are very reactive at low
concentrations and can accumulate in the food web, causing
severe public health concerns. Remediation using conventional
physical and chemical methods is uneconomical and generates
large volumes of chemical waste. Bioremediation of hazardous
metals has received considerable and growing interest over the
years. The use of microbial biosorbents is eco-friendly and
cost effective; hence, it is an efficient alternative for the
remediation of heavy metal contaminated environments.
Microbes have various mechanisms of metal sequestration that
hold greater metal biosorption capacities. The goal of
microbial biosorption is to remove and/or recover metals and
metalloids from solutions, using living or dead biomass and
their components.
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 Miscellaneous

• Use and clothing care of textile:- Many garments and

products now require new form of bio cleaning services. Many
high-end apparel brands offer mending and cleaning services
for biogarments in store, or as a person courier service to meet
customer demands.
• Storing these new fabric saw the design and patenting of the
biowardrobe , a climate controlled wardrobe specially
designed for biomaterial.

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 Dry-Cleaning

• Its compositions comprising lipase, proteases and amylase, are

applied to soiled fabric in presence of an organic sample, e.g.
butoxy propoxy propanol, to clean the fabric. A prepared mode
features the enzyme containing dry cleaning composition,
which is dried with fabric garments in a conventional domestic
tumble dryer to clean them.

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 Leather Industry

 Skins are soaked initially to clean them and to allow

rehydration. This latter process is aided by the addition of very
low concentration of protease.
 Dehairing is carried out using alkaline protease such as
subtilisin in a very alkaline bath.
 Dewooling of skins is conventionally carried out by applying a
paint containing typically lime, sodium chlorite and a protease
to the flesh-side” of the skin followed by incubating.

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• Mariliz et al., (2013) showed that two processes of soaking
and liming were tested, an enzyme-assisted test, using
chemicals and enzymes, and a conventional test using only
chemicals. From the analysis of chloride removal and fat
removal from the hide and of SEM images, it was possible to
realize that the enzyme-assisted is better when the variable in
question is the time in the soaking, as well as it is more
efficient for the unhairing stage. In other studies, the
experiments to remove chromium from leather wastes through
enzymatic action, showed reduction of 53.7% of residues
mass. Experiments of waste treatment with bacterial
Pseudomonas aeruginosas obtained reduction of 57.4% of
chromium quantity present initially. So, biotechnology can be
used in leather production and it will contribute for the
reduction of pollution, principally, of soil and water.
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 Scope of Biotechnology

 The production of pharmaceutical products for the cure or

control of many human diseases. These products include
antibiotics, vaccines, life saving drugs and gene therapy.
 Improvement of clinical testing and diagnostic tools.
 Production of novel varieties of crop plants and animals.
Production of wide range of food products, fertilisers,
pesticides and beverages.
 Waste treatment, bioremediation and energy production.
 Production of reagents including enzymes, DNA/RNA, etc.
 Biotechnology has also enhanced the sale of many biological
products in the world market by improving their varieties and
increasing their large scale production.
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 These items include alcoholic beverage, antibiotics
 References
 Abo M (1990). Method of purifying dry-cleaning solvent
by decomposing liquid contaminants with a lipase, World
Organization Patent, 90(07):606.
 Ammayappan, L., (2008) Study on improvement in
aesthetic properties of woolen products by different
chemical finishes. Ph.D., Thesis, Anna University, Chennai.
 Ammayappan, L., and Jeyakodi Moses, J. (2010), Study on
physical and handle properties of wool/cotton union fabric
treated with enzymes and different pre- polymer finishing
chemicals, Current Chemical Research, 1(1): 19-25.
 Anon, (1980) Final report of the PL 480 project: Evaluation
of the characteristics processing performance and end use
suitability of various Indian wools, Wool Research
Association, Mumbai. Breir, R., 2000. 13.
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 Carl E. Pray , Latha Nagarajan , Jikun Huang , Ruifa Hu and
Bharat Ramaswami (2010) Impact of Bt Cotton, the Potential
Future Benefits from Biotechnology in China and India.
International Journal of Agricultural Sustainability, 95(1-3), pp:
28- 36.
 Chowdary,P (2018) Studies on enzymatic treatment of
cotton/bamboo knitted fabricTextile Research Journal, 70(11),
pp: 969–973.
 Deepti gupta (2001) Biotechnology application in textile
industry. Indian journal of fiber and textile research 26(1):206-
213.
 D.Kumar, Savitri,N. Thakur, R. Verma and T.C.Bhalla, 2008.
Microbial proteases and application as laundry detergent
additive. Research journal of microbiology,3(1)pp:661-672.
 – E. Abadulla et al (2000) Enzymatic decolourization of
Textile Dyeing Effluents, Textile Res. J. 70 (5): 409-414.
– Freddi et al., (2013) Degumming of silk fabric with several
proteases, Journal of Biotechnology 106(1),pp:101-112.
– G. S. Nyanhongo, et al (2002) Decolourization of textile
dyes by laccases, Water Research, 36(6) :1449-1456.
– Leila F. Deravi,(2013)Protein-Based Textiles: Bio-Inspired
and Bio-Derived Materials for Medical and Non-Medical
Applications,Journal of chemical and biological interfaces
1:25-34.
– Mariliz and Dettemer (2013) Application of biotechnology
in Leather,
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 – Nina and Petra (2013) New combined bio-scouring and
bio-bleaching process of cotton fabrics tkanin47(4):409-
412.
– Nicola Willmott et al.(1998) The Biotechnology Approach
to Colour Removal from Textile Effluent, J of Soc. Of
Dyers and Col, 114(2) :38-41.
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