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Introduction to Textile Dyeing

 It is the process of imparting colours to a textile


material in loose fibre, yarn, cloth or garment form by
treatment with a dye.
 Dyeing is also the process of coloring textile materials
by immersing them in an aqueous solution of dye,
called dye liquor. Normally the dye liquor consists of
dye, water and an auxiliary.
 To improve the effectiveness of dyeing, heat is usually
applied to the dye liquor.
What is Dye?
 Dye can be colored, ionizing and aromatic organic
compounds which shows an affinity towards the
substrate to which it is being applied.
 Dyes may also require a mordant to better the fastness
property of the dye on the material on which it is
applied.
What is Pigment?
 Pigment is a substance that can absorb light and
reflect some lights to show color but it is water
insoluble substances.
 Pigments are either organic (derived from plant or
animal sources, e.g. ivory black, indigo) or inorganic
(derived from salts or metallic oxides e.g. ocher, cobalt
blue).
Theory of dyeing
Basically there are two theory :-

 Force of repulsion which are developed between the


dye molecules and water.

 Force of attraction which are developed between the


dye molecules and fibres.
Classification of Dyes
Dyestuffs can be classified by many methods as follows:

 By their ionic e.g. Cationic, anionic and non-ionic)


 By their fiber dye abilities e.g. On cellulosic, protein,
polyester, polyamide etc.).
 By their names e.g. Acid, direct, disperse, reactive,
basic etc.)
 By their chemical structures e.g. azo, anthraquinone
etc.)
 By their origins e.g. Natural, synthetic)
 By their colors e.g. Red, green, black etc.)
Classification of Dyes by their Names
Direct Dye
 These dyes are known as substantive dyes or Salt
dyestuffs or even simply cotton colors.
 Basically used on dyeing cellulose fibres like cotton,
viscose rayon, animal fibres such as wool and silk.
 These dyes need a little amount of soda ash (Sodium
Carbonate) for complete dissolve them in water.
 Direct dyes have poor washing fastness and poor light
fastness.
 If dye-fixing agent before drying; this process improves
the wet fastness of the dyed goods.
Azoic Dyes
 Azoic dyes are so called because their molecules
contain azo group. (N=N) Azoic dyes are also called
naphtha dyes or developed colors.
 The fibres most readily colored with azoic dyes are the
man-made and natural cellulose fibres, e.g. Viscose,
Cotton etc.
 The application of azoic colors involved two steps –
naptholation (dyeing with naphtha) and development
(coupling of diazotized base with naphtha).
 The dyed and printed azoic colors have very good to
excellent light fastness.
 The dyed azoic colors have good washing fastness.
Reactive Dyes
 Reactive dyes are so called because their molecules
react chemically with the fibre polymers of some fibres
to form a covalent bond between the dye molecule and
fibre polymer.
 The fibres most readily colored with reactive dyes are
cellulose fibres, wool, silk and nylon.
 Reactive dyes are also called as Procion dyes.
 These dyes are used for cellulosic fibres and gives
excellent washing fastness.
Vat Dyes
 The name Vat was derived from the large wooden
vessel from which the Vat dyes were first applied.
 Vat dyes provide textile materials with the best color
fastness of all the dyes.
 Mainly used for natural and man made cellulosic
fibers.
 Vat dyes have excellent light and washing fastness.
Acid Dyes
 In this kind of dye some mineral and organic acid are
used like sulphuric, acetic or formic acid and secondly
most of them are sodium salts of organics acids.
 Acid dyestuff is soluble in water.
 These dyes are basically used on wool, silk and nylon
fibres.
 The dyed acid colors have good light fastness and
moderate washing fastness.
Basic Dyes
 Basic dyes are also called cationic dyes because in
solution the basic dye molecule ionizes, causing its
colored component to become an action of positively
charged radical.
 Basic dyes are used for dyeing wool, silk, and acrylic
and mod-acrylic fibres.
 The outstanding characteristics of the basic are
brilliance and intensity of their colors.
 The basic dyes are poor fastness to light and vary with
regard to washing fastness from poor to moderate.
Sulphur Dyes
 These dyes are so called because they contain sulphur
atoms in their molecules.
 The fibres most readily colored with sulphur dyes are
the natural and man-made cellulosic fibres. (Cotton,
Viscose rayon).
 The sulphur dyes are cheap and easy to apply.
 Their wet fastness is good and the light-fastness-
satisfactory.
Disperse Dyes
 They are insoluble in water.
 The fibres mostly colored by disperse dyes are the
acetate fibres, polyester, acrylic and nylon.
 Textile materials colored with disperse dyes have a
moderate to good wash-fastness.
 Textile materials which have been colored with
disperse dyes have a fair to good light-fastness.
Stages of dyeing
1. Solution or Dope dyeing
2. Fiber dyeing (Stock, Top and Tow dyeing)
3. Yarn dyeing (Skein, package, beam dyeing)
4. Fabric dyeing or Piece dyeing
5. Product dyeing and garment dyeing
Comparison of Dyeing in various stages.
Solution or Dope dyeing
Stock Dyeing
Yarn dyeing
Fabric and Piece dyeing
Product or Garment dyeing
Methods of dyeing
1. Jig or Jigger dyeing
2. Winch dyeing
3. Pad dyeing
4. Jet dyeing
5. Package dyeing
Jig or Jigger dyeing
Winch dyeing
Jet dyeing
Pad dyeing
Package Yarn Dyeing Machine (Vertical Type):
Package Yarn Dyeing Machine (Horizontal Type):
Dyeing defects
1. BARRE
2. COLOUR BLEEDING
3. COLOUR CROCKING
4. Off Shade
5. Shade Bar
6. Shade Cross Bar
7. Crease streak
8. Tender spots
9. Uneven shade
10. Stained (unclear)
COMMON CAUSES OF DEFECTS
1. The material is not well prepared for dyeing
2. Water Quality not Proper
3. Due to Shortcomings in making Dyeing Solution
4. Due to Shortcomings in the dye machinery
The material is not well prepared for dyeing

 Material having dead fibres or other defective fibres


 Left over of Chemicals after bleaching etc.
 Material not properly desized
 Material not properly mercerised.
 Absorbancy of the fabric not proper
 Sticking of insoluble material on the fibres
 Impurities are not removed properly
 Uneven heat treatment.
Water Quality not Proper
 More Hardness of water
 Water has metal ions such as iron.
 pH of water not proper
 Water having more chlorine
Due to Shortcomings in making Dyeing Solution

 Improper weight ratio of colors, material and


chemicals.
 Improper material to water ratio
 Improper filtering of concentrated colors.
Due to Shortcomings in the dye machinery
 Coming out of Dye liquor during dyeing
 Defective instruments controlling temperature,
pressure speed etc.
Major Dyeing Defects
 Barre
Fabric will appear to have horizontal
streaks. It may be caused due to the
variation in size of the filling yarn and
the differences in tension either the
filling or warp yarns.

 Color Bleeding
IT’S A LOSS OF COLOUR WHEN THE DYED
FABRIC IS WETTED OR IMMERSED IN
WATER. THE WATER BECOME COLOURED
AND MAY LEAD TO DISCOLORATION
OF OTHER FABRICS.
THIS IS USUALLY DUE TO EITHER IMPROPER
DYE SELECTION OR POOR DRY FASTNESS.
Major Dyeing Defects
 Color Crocking
It is the rubbing off of the colour. It may rub
onto other fabric. This may be due to
inadequate scouring subsequent to dyeing.

 Off Shade
It refers to colour that exactly doesn’t match
the standard of the prepared sample. This
may be due to faulty dye foundation or
application or may be due to variation in dye
lot.
Major Dyeing Defects
 Shade Bar

It is variation in colour tone either horizontally


or vertically.

 Shade Cross Bar

It is variation in colour tone either


horizontally or vertically.
Major Dyeing Defects
 Crease Streak
It occurs in tubular knits. It results from creased fabric
passing through squeeze rollers in the dyeing process.
 Tender Spots
It refers to places in the fabric that have been
excessively weakened, actually by exposure
to processing of chemicals. Sulphur dyed fabrics show
Tendering.
Major Dyeing Defects
 Uneven shade
It is the difference in the shade of the fabric from edge
to edge or one end of the fabric to another.
 Stained (Unclear)
The fabric may be stained due to various reasons such
as foreign material caught while dyeing.

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