Chapter 4: STARTING SYSTEMS

Starting System
Introduction

Internal combustion engines are not capable of starting themselves. Therefore, its require external force to start them up.

Motors which provide this force are called starter.

This is a powerful electric motor that engages the car's flywheel in order to spin the crankshaft It converts electrical energy from the battery into mechanical energy that rotates the flywheel-crankshaft

Starting System Principles

The major parts of a starting system include:

1. Battery (source of energy for starting system) 2. Ignition switch (allows driver to control starting system operation) 3. Solenoid (high current relay (switch) for connecting battery to starting motor) 4. Starter motor (high torque electric motor for turning gear on engine flywheel)

Starting circuit
The starting system has two circuits. 1. The low current control circuit 2. The high current motor circuit

When the ignition key is started; Starter relay or solenoid switch close High current flows from the battery insulated cable through starter relay to starting motor A gear on starting motor shaft moves into mesh with the ring gear around the engine flywheel causes the crankshaft spins fast enough to start the engine

Power Transmission

Power transmission takes place in two stages when the starter switch is operated. First, there is a power flow from the battery to the starter motor, causing the the motor armature to rotate. Then, there is power flow from the armature to the vehicle engine. This being accomplished by the engagement of a pinion gear on the armature shaft with a gear ring on the engine flywheel.

Starter Motor

This is a powerful electric motor that engages the car's flywheel in order to spin the crankshaft. The starter is composed of windings of wire that form loops, ending at the commutator segments. The armature coils are mounted on the motor's central shaft (supported with bearings.

Starter Motor Construction

Starter Motor Construction

The starting motor has two basic parts; 1. A starter armature - the rotating assembly consists of an armature shaft, armature core, commutator and armature windings 2. Field frame assembly - field windings produce strong magnetic field around starter armature when battery current flows through them

Starting Motor Operation

Brushes are used to create electrical contact to the commutator segments. When current is fed into brushes, it flows through all the loops of the shoe windings and armature and out the other brushes.

This creates a electromagnetic field around each loop. As the armature turns, and spin the motor. The greater the current flowing in the coils, the greater the magnetic forces, and the greater the power of the motor.

Since the coil draw heavy amounts of current, it must not be operated on a continuous basis for longer than 30 seconds. After cranking for 30seconds it is wise to wait a couple of minutes to let the starter motor dissipate some of its heat.

Ammature & Commutator

Actual starting motor has multiple (several) commutator segments and windings to increase motor power and smoothness.

FLYWHEEL RING GEAR

-This is a toothed ring that is fitted to the outside of the engine's flywheel. Matching teeth on the starter motor mesh with this gear in order to spin the crankshaft.

Solenoid Starter Switch

1. 2.

Function : As a relay switch to complete the battery-starter motor circuit. To pull plunger and sleeve for pinion gear engagement to ring gear on the flywheel.

1.

Operation: When the ignition key in start position, a small amount of current flows through the solenoid windings. This produces a magnetic field that pulls on the solenoid plunger. The plunger and disc are pulled into the coil windings

2.

The solenoid disc touches both of the terminals and completes the battery-to-starter circuit. About 150 200 Amps current flows through the solenoid and to the starter.

3.

When the ignition key is released, current is disconnected from the solenoid windings. The magnetic field collapsed and plunger slide out of the windings and starter motor shuts off.

Starting Motor Drive

A. Before ignition key start, no field coils energized so motor does not run. Contact A will close before contact B B. When ignition key is turned to start, the plunger pulling the sleeve and pinion moves towards flywheel. Touches toothto-tooth abutment. Contact A Closesmotor turns slowly to allow pinion to slide into engagement. C. Pinion fully engaged, both contact (A & B) are close, full power (current) to motor, armature and pinion starting spin (high torque) and rotate ring gear flywheel.

Movable-Pole-Shoe Starting Motor

Instead of a solenoid mounted on the starting motor, some cars have a movable-pole-shoe starting motor that uses a movable pole shoe to move the overrunning clutch shift lever.

When the ignition key is turned to START; 1. Contacts closes in the relay and current flows to the starting motor. 2. The magnetic field from the field windings around the movable-pole shoe pulls it down. 3. As the shoe moves down, the shift lever pivots and moves the pinion into mesh with the ring-gear teeth

Starting Motor Drive

The pinion gear meshes with the ring gear on the flywheel. The ring gear has about 15 times as many teeth as the pinion. This means the armature must rotate 15 times to rotate the ring gear (flywheel) and crankshaft once When the starting motor operates, the armature spins about 3000 rpm. This rotates the crankshaft about 200 rpm or higher which is fast enough to start the engine After the engine starts, crankshaft speed may increase to 3000 rpm or more. If the pinion remains in mesh with the ring gear, the pinion and armature will spin at 45 000 rpm because of the 15:1 gear ratio

Overrunning Clutch

The starter overrunning clutch transmits torque (turning power) in one direction and turns freely in the other direction. This allows the pinion gear to turn the flywheel ring gear for starting. It also lets the pinion gear freewheel when the engine begins to run. Without the overrunning clutch, the starter could be driven by the engine flywheel. The flywheel gear could spin the starter too fast and cause armature damage

Overrunning Clutch Operation

The overrunning clutch consists of an outer shell and a pinion-and-collar assembly. The outer shell has five steel rollers fitted into five notches. The notches are smaller at one end. When the armature and shell begin to rotate, the rollers roll into the smaller ends of the notches. There, they jammed between the shell and the pinion collar. This forces the pinion to turn with the sleeve, cranking the engine When the engine starts, it drives the pinion faster than the shell and armature. The rollers roll back into the larger ends of the notches. This allows the pinion and collar to spin faster than the shell and armature

Gear Reduction
Many starting motor have internal gear reduction to increase cranking torque. The small pinion gear on the armature shaft drives the larger gear on the clutch shaft.

There are two gear reductions 1) reduction gear set inside the starting motor 2) reduction gear between the overrunning clutch pinion and the ring gear teeth

Gear Reduction
Gear reduction 45:1 the armature turns 45 times to turn the crankshaft Many permanent magnets starting motor have planetary gear set of gear reduction. It provides a gear reduction of about 4.5 to 1. Total gear reduction between the starting motor armature and crankshaft is about 70 to 1

Permanent Magnet Starting Motors

Instead of electromagnets, some starting motors use four or six permanent magnets to provide the stationary magnetic field so that the size is smaller and lighter that starting motor with field coils This starter motor has 40% lighter than conventional equivalent and suitable for petrol engine. Permanent magnet resulting a low torque compared to coil winding, so its using the gear reduction (planetary gear drive) to increase torque.

Permanent Magnet Starting Motors

Complete Starting System Circuit

Starting System Testing & Repair

Starting System Trouble Diagnosis The figure shows the most common starting system troubles. If any of these parts have high resistance, lower than normal resistance, damage or wear, the engine may not crank normally

Three basic starting system complaints are: 1. The engine does not crank 2. The engine cranks slowly but does not start 3. The engine cranks normally but does not start

Starting Headlight Test

The test will make a quick check of the starting system. Turn ON the headlights and try to start the engine. Note any sound and watch the brightness of the headlights (or the inside dome-light)

1. No Cranking, Lights Stay Bright Current is not getting to the starting motor. Check the voltage at ignition key switch and starting motor terminals with ignition key at START. If has voltage at starting motor terminal trouble at starting motor If no voltage at starting motor terminal trouble in the relay or solenoid 2. No Cranking, Lights Dim Heavily The starting motor cannot crank the engine with low battery. Recharge or replace a discharged battery. Other possible causes are advanced spark timing, excessive starter draw and loose or dirty connections 3. No Cranking, Lights Dim Slightly The drive pinion may not be engaging with the ring gear. If starting motor armature spins, then the overrunning clutch is slipping. Other possible causes are high resistance or an open circuit in the starting motor 4. No Cranking, Lights Go Out Caused by poor connection at the battery. Wiggle cable connection, if tight, perform a voltage drop test. If there is voltage, the connection has excessive resistance so clean the cable clamp and battery terminal. Install and tighten the clamp 5. No Cranking, No Lights Points to a dead battery or open in the electrical system. Possibilities include a loose connection at the battery, relay or solenoid

Starting Test
1. Engine Cranks Slowly but Does Not Start Engine crankshaft does not rotate properly with the ignition key at START. The most common causes are a dead battery, poor electrical connection or faulty system component 2. Engine Cranks at Normal Speed but Does Not Start The starting systems okay. The trouble is elsewhere (ignition system, fuel system, engine defective or air leaks in intake manifold) 3. Relay or Solenoid Chatters (rattle on) If happens when the key at START, a. Battery is probably low. Charge the battery b. Contact in the relay or solenoid may be burned replace the contact plate c. Defective solenoid hold-in winding replace solenoid 4. Pinion Disengages Slowly After Starting Caused by sticky solenoid plunger, overrunning clutch sticks on armature shaft, overrunning clutch defective and shift-lever return spring weak 5. Unusual Noises Caused by too much or too little clearance between the overrunning clutch pinion and the ring gear. Adjust according to manufacturers service manual

Starting System Testing

1. Cranking-Voltage Test

Measures the voltage for ignition while the starting motor cranks the engine 1) Disable the ignition so the engine will not start 2) Connect a voltmeter across the battery 3) Crank the engine If the starting motor cranks normally & voltage > 9, cranking voltage is normal If slow cranking & voltage > 9, high resistance in motor circuit or starting motor If low cranking speed & low voltage, a discharged battery

Starting System Testing

2. Voltage Drop Test

To determine if there is excessive resistance across a cable, component or connection while current flows through it. 1) Disable ignition 2) Connect the voltmeter leads to the terminal and cable clamp 3) Turn the ignition key to start

The meter should show zero. Typical voltage drop should not exceed 0.2 volts across a wire or cable and 0.3 volts across a switch. (Refer service manual). Voltage drop from the starting motor ground to the battery ground terminal should not exceed 0.2 volt.

Starting System Testing

3. Current-Draw Test / Starter-Draw Test

To measure the current flow to the starting motor while it cranks the engine 1) Disable ignition 2) Connect the ammeter to the battery cable 3) Turn the ignition key to START
A reading of 200 Amps is typical for some engines. If higher than specified, the trouble is in starting motor or engine

Starting System Testing

4. Starting Motor Bench Test After removing the starter motor from the engine, two test can be made 1) No-Load Test 2) Stall test no longer used/ recommended 1) No-Load Test It requires a voltmeter, ammeter and carbon pile or the volt-ampere tester. Connect a remote starter switch from the large solenoid battery (BAT) terminal to the smaller solenoid (S) terminal 1) Hold revolution counter/ rpm indicator against the end of the armature shaft 2) Close the remote starter switch 3) Note armature speed (rpm), current and voltage

Starting System Testing

Result of No-Load Test

The result indicate various electrical and mechanical problems in the starting motor 1)Rated current draw speed indicate normal conditions 2)Low no-load speed and high current draw indicates excessive internal friction or a shorted armature. Excessive friction is due to dirty, tight or worn bearings or by the armature dragging on the pole shoes 3)Failure to operate with a high current draw indicates grounded terminal or brush assembly or frozen bearings 4)Failure to operate with no current draw indicates open brush leads or field circuit or open armature coils. Other causes include broken brush springs, worn brushes, glazed commutator or high insulation between the commutator bars 5)Low no-load speed with a low current draw indicates high internal resistance caused by poor connections, defective leads or a dirty commutator 6) High no-load speed with high current draw indicates shorted fields.

Starter Motor Service

Removing and Installing Starter Motor To remove: 1. Disconnect the ground cable from the battery. If necessary, raise the car 2. Remove any braces, shields or other parts that may be in the way 3. Disconnect the wires and cables from the starting motor 4. Support the starting motor 5. Remove the starting motor mounting bolts ( watch for any shims between the starting motor and its mounting pad for reinstallation) To Install: 1. Clean the mounting surfaces on the drive end and on the engine for god electrical contact 2. Install the starting motor 3. Reconnect the wiring and cable 4. Start the engine 5. Follow procedure to install data to ECM 6. Check for normal cranking speed and starting system operation

Structure of starter motor

Servicing Starter Motor

Permanent magnets in the starting motor increase its durability because failures caused by shorted or grounded field coils eliminated. 1. To disassemble, remove the solenoid (if used) and through bolts. Remove the housing. Inspect and service the components. Major steps in rebuilding starting motor: 2. Replace armature bushings or bearings 3. Test the armature and field coils (if used) 4. Refinish the commutator 5. Replace damaged field coils (if used) 6. Replace brushes 7. Wipe clean or replace overrunning clutch drive 8. Replace contacts in the solenoid switch 9. Then, lubricate the shaft splines, bushings and bearings. 10. Assemble the starting motor. If required, energized the solenoid and check the clearance

THE END

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