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You need to know this stuff There will be a test What will happen to you if you dont learn this
Hause of Howe
Mens line: Cowboy punk meets English Country Gentleman Womens: Miss Kitty meets Emma Peel (?)
Types of garments
What is your line plan? Who will be wearing this/what size range? Will one garment be the focus? Can one garment sell the line/concept? Will too many garments cloud the message and interfere with ability to meet deadlines? What does Jade Howe want? Who will he serve? What will Union Bay do?
Womens Bottoms
Pants (fit)
Flat cut Pleated Straight Pegged A-Line Hip hugger Leggings Boot cut
Zippers
Overlap Exposed Invisible Fly
Collars
Tailored Mandarin Notched Convertible (open/closed)
Sleeves
Set in Shirt Raglan Dolman Cap
Cuffs
Vented Ruffle Roll up French
Knit Tops
Halter Top Polo Shirt T-Shirt Tank
Necklines
Sweetheart V-neck Jewel Square
Sweaters
Cardigan Pullover Turtleneck/mock turtleneck V-neck
Line Plan
A list of what will be produced for a specific offering
Need to know
Season Colors Theme
Minimums
Applies to
Garments Fabric Findings
Woven
Two or more yarns interlaced at right angles
Warp yarns
Run lengthwise, parallel to selvage, most stable direction, straight of grain
Weft Yarns
Cross wise (weft to Wight), fill, cross grain, most give
Bias
Knit
Formation of fabric by the inter-looping of one or more sets of yarns Wales vertical columns of stitches Courses are the horizontal rows Examples Warp knit Tricot, lace Weft Knit Single knit (jersey, velour) Double (interlock, rib)
Sustainable
Fabric that is used Manufacturing Method/Factory Use of garment alone
Concept Board
Tear Sheet Swatches Start it now with your idea book
Knock Off
The cut or details of a garment cannot be copyrighted under existing law, although logos and original prints can be protected Illegal and legal
Silhouette
The outline or shape of the garment
Pre-production garments
Sketch Muslin Proto Size run Wear test Pre-production TOP (Top of Production)
Target Customer
Different issues when you are designing clothes
Fit Model
Your responsibility to find one. Standard size and look
Mens sizing for Hause of Howe
Medium 41 chest Large 44 XL 46 XXL 49
Labeling issues
Care and Content Country of Origin Hang Tags
Types of Stitches
Lockstitch Over lock Cover stitch Flat lock Seamless/Bemis/Welded Top Stitch (single needle/double needle)
Fabric Terms
Greige Goods
Any fabric that has not been finished
Vegetable Fiber (cotton, linen, silk, hemp) Animal Fiber (wool, leather) Man made Denier
Yarn or fiber size DPF (yarn size divided by # of filaments)
Fabric Coloring
Yarn Dye Piece Dye Product Dye Problems and remedies
Shading/streaks Dye lot difference
Embellishment Methods
Embroidery
Digitize Screen Print Heat Transfer Sublimation - no use of liquid. From paper to fabric through and through. Printing (Roller printing, discharge, ink jet)
Embellishment Problems
Migration/Bleeding Crocking
FOB
Freight on Board
Tariff
Also called Harmonized Tariff Code (HTC), this coding system is used by the U.S. Government to classify U.S. imports and exports. These codes can be up to 10 digits long. Exports codes (called Schedule B) are administered by the U.S. Census Bureau. Import codes are administered by the U.S. International Trade Commission (USITC). Some GATT member nations also use this system. Here is an example of a hierarchy from HS: 61 Articles of apparel and clothing accessories, knitted or crocheted 6103 Men's or boys' suits, ensembles, suit-type jackets....knitted or crocheted 6103.19 Of other textile materials 6103.19.20 Of cotton 6103.19.20.10 Jackets imported as parts of suits
Pantone
Carry over
Croquis
Factory Terms
Spreader Bundling Station system
each part is completed at a station then goes to a central location
Continuous System
Begins as parts and does not come off the line until it is done