Procedures practiced for quality control and assurance (Finishing)

The basic objective of finishing must be quality and appearance. Appearance is the basis of most consumers judgment on whether or not to purchase a garment.

Evaluation of quality of pressing operation

Burned or scorched garments Water spots / stains Gloss and/or change in color (original shade) Flattened nap or surface Broken zippers, buttons, etc. Creases not correctly formed Fabric of finished garment not smooth, wrinklefree, and showing its proper appearance

 Edges wavy and stretched or thick and cockling Garments not thoroughly dried. Pockets not smooth Lining showing pleats, creases, wrinkles, shine Garments not correctly molded, either in detail or total silhouette Shrinkage due to heat and moisture

 Also it is very important to continuously monitor

the temperature (surface temperature of the press), the pressure under which the garments are pressed and the time of the length for which those garments are pressed.

Quality / workmanship standards in general

Open seams
No open or raw seams allowed except on hems where up to 5/8 allowed.

Skipped Stitches
No skips allowed on chain stitch or raveling stitch unless skip will be covered by a subsequent operation. Two or fewer skips allowed on lock stitch provided skips are non-consecutive. More than two skips are allowed on lock stitch provided seam will be covered by a subsequent operation. Skips on decorative top-stitching allowed on non- reveling seams if not obvious on face of garment

 Cracked stitches
All seams must withstand stress reasonably expected in wearing without breaking stitches.

Stitches / Inch
All operations must meet SPI (Stitched per inch) requirement designated in the product specification and/or standard speed and stitch chart.

Uneven seams
Leg, sleeve cuff, or other seams designed to meet evenly must be no more than from meeting evenly. Intermediate operations may have larger tolerances provided measurement, appearance, or subsequent operations are not affected by failing to meet evenly + tolerance.

 Crooked, puckered, curled, pleated seams

Finished garment appearance or serviceability must not be adversely affected.

Needle and Feed cuts

No feed cuts allowed unless cut will be cut off or completely covered by a subsequent operation. One needle cut allowed provided no hole or run develops when subject to normal wearing stress. Two or more allowed if meets run or hole criteria and only needle cut appears in finished seam. (Exception: Holes confirmed by gripper or embroidery).

Unclipped Threads and Long ends On intermediate operations (i.e. those operations which will be seamed over or covered by a subsequent operation) threads will be specified on In-process quality specifications for that operations
Automatic operations such as buttonhole or bar tack, 3/8 allowed unless thread contrasts with garment and creates poor appearance. Finished seams 3/8 allowable if texturized polyester thread is used. Otherwise none allowed outside if contrasting and visible to the consumer. Allowed on outside if matching thread is used and tail is less than Exception: Foot or hand area of footed or handi- cuff garments may not have a thread tail exposed on finished seams in excess of 3/8. Strictly Enforced.

 Raw Edge, Untrimmed

No raw edge allowed on outside finished seams. No raw egde inside wider than .

Turn Ends
Defect on finished seam if appearance or secureness is affected.

Labels
Defect if crocked, missing, incorrect, insecurely attached, or seriously puckered. Stitching not to cover logo in any manner.

 Snaps, Fasteners
Missing, loose or misaligned. Stud must match socket within . Greater tolerance allowed only if appearance is not seriously affected.

Broken Needle
Any broken needle left in the garment.

Hems
Defective if excessively curled puckered, pleated, or excessive bite.

 Smocking
Ends not caught securely such that subsequent operations will fail to secure. Incorrect design. One skip on securing stitch or obvious skips on decorative thread affecting appearance.

Trim
Missing or obviously pieced, shaded or defective so as to affect appearance of finished garment.

GLOSSARY OF FINISHING DEPARTMENT DEFECTS

Defect

Description
Trimming defects

Thread not Trimmed or Self-explanatory. Threads not Trimmed to Specified Length

Cuts or Nicks
Seam Tears Soil

Caused by indifferent handling of scissors. snips or mechanical trimmers

Frequently caused by the turning equipment used to reverse garments in finishing Caused by oil, grease or dirt. Often times originating from a dirty work area or machinery not properly cleaned. Marking caused by some types of turn boards or defectively finished trimmings

Streaks

Pressing Defects Pressing Omitted. Self-explanatory. Burned or Scorched Garments Inadequate Pressing Excessive heat or pressure resulting in poor pleating, fullness or twisting of a seam or garment surface Garments not Resulting in excessive wrinkling of garment. Thoroughly Dried: Improper Pressing Over Zippers or Other Closures Pockets or Linings not Pressed Correctly Pressing Producing a Shine in Fabric Often produces a tear or unsightly impression on the face of the garment Causing wrinkles or ridges to appear on the surface of the garment Usually caused by excessive heat or incorrect type of pressing surface

Folding Defects
Garment not Folded to specifications Self-explanatory.

Garment not Folded with Cardboard, tissue or other specified packaging Proper materials materials omitted

Pins or Folds in Garment Incorrect

Pins in wrong location or folds not correctly aligned for package

Garments not Buttoned. Self-explanatory. Flys not Closed. Incorrect number of Pins: Label not Showing Garment not positioned in package to show label on top surface