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OMNIVORE

crales compltes et sucres non raffins, cuissons basse temprature, usage judicieux des huiles essentielles et des super-aliments Une faon de manger bonne pour le corps autant que pour les papilles : il suffit pour sen convaincre de mordre dans une tartelette patate douce et cumin, dattaquer une portion gnreuse de riz noir au kale et au potimarron, ou encore de soffrir le crmeux de cajou ou une madeleine, le tout

concoct par la jeune chef amricaine Cameil Kaundart (Formule djeuner : 17). Les lve-tt qui cherchent un petit djeuner plaisir ne pourraient rver plus nergisant quun jus ou un smoothie frais (6 ) et un bol de granola maison (cru ou cuit), servi avec du lait vgtal ou un yaourt de soja. Le brunch du dimanche, tout aussi tentant, inclut un uf basse temprature, une tartinade choco-noisette maison et des crudits (25 ).

bia mara
emma beddington
you need guts to move to Brussels in order to sell frites to the Belgians. Theres not much you can teach Belgium about deep frying, so what are a ne-dining chef and a fashion industry veteran from Ireland doing opening a no-frills sh and chip shop a few hundred yards from the Grand-Place? Well, theyre doing pretty excellent business, actually. Barry Wallace and Simon Whiteside started out selling fried mackerel from a van in Dublin and Bia Mara (Fruit of the Sea in Irish Gaelic) has kept that street food vibe: the decor is all graffiti and bare concrete; you order at the counter from paper tear-off menus and sit at simple wooden tables; and the short menu of four sustainably caught sh options, plus chicken and veggie options is served in recycled card boxes. With all these modern streetfood boxes duly ticked, it could feel a bit formulaic, but what distinguishes Bia Mara is the

LE DJEUNER BRUXELLES
BIA MARA 41 rue du March aux Poulets, 1000, biamara.com Fish and chips 10; beer/ wine 3-3.50; cocktails 5 Fish and chips 10 ; bire/ vin 3 -3,50 ; cocktails 5

LUNCH IN BRUSSELS

brilliant quality of the sh: my plump, fresh haddock llet comes in a crisp, greaseless Japanese panko crumbs and there are ambitious weekly specials (think seabass in lemon and basil tempura, or Vietnamese spiced red mullet). Wisely, the fries arent trying to compete with Brussels nest: theyre fat, skin-on wedges dusted with avoured salts (seaweed, garlic and chili or balsamic and red onion) and served with peppy homemade sauces, from truffle to spiced ketchup. A handful of sides include a delectable cream and

photography: philippe levy

fresh mint-infused petit pois puree that stamps all over traditional mushy peas. With a at price of 10 for sh and chips, wine and beers around the 3 mark, and a popular monthly disco brunch with 5 cocktails, Bia Mara is a simple but incredibly seductive concept and its no surprise to hear theyre planning a London outpost soon. il faut du courage pour venir vendre des frites aux Bruxellois : la friture, les Belges matrisent. Que sont donc venus faire prs de la Grand-Place

metropolitan 29