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While the Tour du Mont Blanc is considered one of the greatest walks
in the world, a surprisingly large number of people have never heard
of this famous hike that takes you around the base of one of the Alp’s
largest mountains, Mont Blanc.
:
Col de Balme camping and refuge, Tour du mont blanc
There is so much I wish I had known before I started hiking the Tour
Du Mont Blanc. While we still had a wonderful journey, it would have
been even more enjoyable if I had known more before hand.
That’s not to say I didn’t plan it. I spent dozens of hours researching
the Tour du Mont Blanc in hopes of planning the perfect trip but the
problem was, the information simply wasn’t out there.
Table of Contents
1. What Is The Tour Du Mont Blanc?
1.1. Map of the Tour du Mont Blanc
2. Reasons To Hike The Tour Du Mont Blanc
3. Why You Should Go With Self Guided
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4. Where Does the Tour du Mont Blanc Start & End?
5. How to Get to The Tour du Mont Blanc
5.1. Buses and Trains to Chamonix
6. Staying in Chamonix
7. Getting to Les Houches
8. Refuges vs Camping
9. Staying at Refuges
9.1. Refuge Basics
9.2. Half Board vs Dorm Only
9.3. Espresso/Alcohol Isn’t Included
9.4. Cost of Refuges
9.5. Booking Refuges
10. How Long Does it Take to Hike the Tour du Mont Blanc?
10.1. If You Don’t Have Time to Hike it All
11. Clockwise vs Counter Clockwise
12. Will you be alone on the Tour Du Mont Blanc?
13. Are There Cities Along the Tour du Mont Blanc?
14. How Hard is the Tour du Mont Blanc?
15. Best Time to Hike the Tour du Mont Blanc
15.1. The Ultra Tour du Mont Blanc
16. Weather on the Tour du Mont Blanc
17. How Fit Do You Need To Be To Hike the Tour du Mont Blanc?
18. Things to Consider before taking on the TMB
19. TMB Guidebook and Map
20. What to Pack for the Tour du Mont Blanc
21. Overview of the Stages of the Tour Du Mont Blanc
21.1. Stage 1: Les Houches to Les Contamines
21.2. Stage 2: Les Contamines to Les Chapieux
21.3. Stage 3: Les Chapieux to Rifugio Elisabetta
21.4. Stage 4: Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur
21.5. Stage 5: Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti
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21.6. Stage 6: Rifugio Bonatti to La Fouly
21.7. Stage 7: La Fouly to Champex
21.8. Stage 8: Champex to Col de la Forclaz
21.9. Stage 9: Col de la Forclaz to Tré-le-Champ
21.10. Stage 10: Tré-le-Champ to Refuge La Flégère
21.11. Stage 11: La Flégère to Les Houches
22. Tour du Mont Blanc Resources:
23. Share it or Pin it:
When you hike the Tour du Mont Blanc you aren’t summiting any of
these peaks. In fact, you rarely even walk along the base of peaks.
Usually you walk along a hillside across the valley so that you can
look at the Mont Blanc Massif from a better vantage point.
:
Stage 11 of the Tour du Mont Blanc from Le Brevent to Les Houches
No doubt one of the greatest views of the entire Tour Du Mont Blanc lies in the glorious section of Stage 11
On the Tour du Mont Blanc, your goal is to find the lowest point
between peaks, known as the “col”, and walk the valleys between the
cols which surround this massive mountain range. Every time you go
over one of these cols, you’ve gone over a “pass” and there are 10 or
11 passes along the way depending upon the variant you take.
:
Stage 2 variant on Tour du Mont Blanc
From the summit of Col de Fours you can see the beautiful Aiguillette des Glaciers. It’s incredible place on
the Tour du Mont Blanc to stop and take it all in
You never have to worry about getting lost, the trail is very well
marked.
Besides making the hike easier than what a mountaineer would take
on, you get incredible views of Mont Blanc from many different
vantage points along the way because you are looking at the
mountain from a distance.
Planning your self guided TMB trek is going to be very confusing until
you’ve got a good understanding of this map.
A map of the overall Tour du Mont Blanc hiking route Map credit via Chamonix.net
3. Solitude: Sure we passed people on the trail but for the most
part, we had a ton of solitude. I can’t remember the last time my
mind felt so at peace. While moments of guilt may have crept in
for leaving leaving my little ones at home for this adventure, the
wellness I gained from this experience can’t be measured and I
am so much healthier and whole for taking on this journey of a
lifetime.
Catching up with other hikers and chatting on our descent into Ville des Glaciers
I’m guessing you already know the benefits of a self guided trek if
you’ve found this blog, but to sum up, by trekking the TMB self
guided you’ll save money, you’ll have control over your agenda, and
you don’t have to socialize all the time. Even if you are a social
butterfly, the communities that you meet at each refuge should
satiate your craving for meeting people.
:
The only reason not to go with a self guided tour would be if you’re
the type who really doesn’t like planning and doesn’t mind letting
someone have full control of the schedule.
Technically, the Tour du Mont Blanc is circular so you really can start
it anywhere.
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Most important about this part is to try and avoid flying in late at
night. There are very few bus services that run late at night which
means you have opt for the train (which is pain) or pay for a private
transfer.
:
Initially we booked with AlpyBus because they were one of the few
options that had option at 11pm but unfortunately our flight got
delayed to get to Geneva and by the time we arrived, we had missed
our booked shuttle ride and there were no other shuttles running that
night that they could re-book us on.
We ended up rebooking a new ride with EasyBus since their first bus
of the day was at 6am whereas as AlpyBus wasn’t until 10am or so
and on the way back we rode with Swiss Tours.
Riding a train can be a really cheap option however the train route to
Geneva requires a lot of transfers which can be real drag especially
when your’e super excited to get on the trail.
Staying in Chamonix
Most hikers opt to stay in their starting town for a few days before or
after their TMB trek purely for the sake of enjoying the beautiful
towns.
Chamonix, France
If you you’ve brought a tent and are planning on tent camping on the
TMB, you’ll want to stay at Camping Les Arolles in town.
Check-in date
낦 13 Jun '23
Check-out date
낥 14 Jun '23
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When you’re ready to begin you’re trek, you’re going to want to get
on the bus that departs every 30 minutes from Chamonix Sud, the
main bus station in Chamonix that is hard to miss.
Note that this isn’t the only way to start the TMB and if there are
many alternate starting options.
:
Public Transport for stage 1 of Tour du Mont Blanc
For example, we started our tour by riding the Le Brevent cable car
right from the town of Chamonix. We did this because of unfavorable
weather conditions to unfavorable weather predictions and we
wanted to make sure we didn’t miss out on the amazing views of
stage 11.
:
Because weather is so unpredictable in the Alps, even in
the summer, I highly encourage you to have a plan and
then a few back up plans.
Read How We Fast Packed the TMB to get you ideas on how you
can deviate from the traditional route in case the weather isn’t ideal
for you.
Refuges vs Camping
There are two main ways to go about accommodation on the Tour.
The most popular option is to stay at hotels and refuges as
mentioned earlier.
At the same time, refuges are very expensive ranging from 50-60
Euros per person per night (half board price with dinner and
breakfast included) so we personally opted for camping (with 2 nights
at a refuge).
I loved camping and don’t regret our decision to camp since we got
to sleep in the most stunning spots but it’s not a decision that should
be taken lightly. By camping you will have to carry at least 20lb packs
as opposed to when staying refuges, you can carry as little as 8lb
packs.
Staying at Refuges
Staying at a European mountain refuge is really a one of a kind
experience. It’s one part shelter and ease of travel, one part
incredible culinary delights, and one part a community experience of
people who are all here for the same reason, to hike the alps.
:
Col de Balme camping and refuge, Tour du mont blanc
Now there are a few things you should know about staying at
refuges.
Refuge Basics
A refuge is a mountain hut and is basically run like a bed and
breakfast. Some are privately owned and some are owned by the
county/city (Elisabetta for example). Either way, every refuge is
dedicated to providing you with the utmost comfort on your
adventure. That’s not to say that all refuges are on par with one
another. As a matter of fact, it’s important to consider which refuges
you’re going to stay at because not all of them deliver a 5 star Alps
experience (Chalet Refuge de la Balme for example).
:
Chalet Refuge de la Balme on the Tour du Mont Blanc stage 2
Hiking boots are not allowed in refuges so upon arrival you’ll remove
your hiking boots in the boot room and switch to sandals. If you don’t
want to pack sandals, crocs are provided by refuges.
If you’re the type of person who doesn’t really need breakfast, going
with the dinner and dorm option is nice option so you can save a little
bit of money. If I’d been staying at refuges the whole trip, I would’ve
chosen to do this.
:
Rifugio Bonatti on Tour du Mont Blanc, Italy
The bar where you can order warm drinks, alcohol, and other eats at Bonatti
If perhaps you’re trying to save money and are hauling your own
food, paying for just the room is an option.
No matter which board option you go with, you can choose to pay for
a take-away lunch for the next day, just make sure you request it the
night before.
You may have already assumed that alcohol isn’t included in which
case you’d be correct. Beer and wine are always available but they
are not include in dinner. They are added to your tab and payed for
separately.
Cost of Refuges
Refuges are pricey as I mentioned previously. Refuge prices can
vary greatly depending on the type of refuge you’re staying at. Some
refuges offers private rooms, semi-private dorms, and traditional
dorm style rooms. There’s also the option of dinner or no dinner and
breakfast or no breakfast as I mentioned before. Depending on which
room you choose/is available will greatly affect the cost.
For example, this is what a typical rate sheet looks like when you
look at each refuge’s info online:
In addition, some refuges charge less for kids, but not all.
When you go to book your actual refuges, the rates will be shown on
the TMB website (see next section).
Booking Refuges
If you’re doing a self guided Tour du Mont Blanc trek in the high
season of July or August, you’ll need to book your refuges around 6
months advance. Yep, seriously. There are thousands of people who
hike this every year primarily between July and August which means
with only a limited amount of available beds in each refuge, you’re
going to want to make sure you secure your reservations ahead of
time.
:
To book refuges, the best place to go is 1) the guidebook as I
mention at the bottom of this post or 2) the Tour du Mont Blanc
website.
The entire TMB website is actually really helpful for planning your
TMB trek but only if you’re staying on huts. There’s an interactive
map that shows where each refuge is. We personally didn’t use the
website because we were camping and it doesn’t really give any
information on camping spots.
The traditional and most popular way of hiking the Tour du Mont
Blanc is in 9-11 days. Since the Tour du Mont Blanc is made up of 11
stages, doing 1, or just a little more than 1 stage per day requires a
very leisurely pace, little challenge, and a lot of time spent relaxing in
refuges or campgrounds.
Tackling our second stage of the day, the grueling ascent up to Col de la Seigne
:
Fastpacking is ideal for people who regularly tackle strenuous 12+
mile day hikes and are carrying just a light pack. It is a bit more
challenging to fastpack if you go with the self sufficient approach of
camping. Get more details on this with our Camping on the Tour du
Mont Blanc Guide.
We met several people who did this and were only hiking some
stages of the TMB due to time limits on their trip.
No hike in the world compares to the immense, in-your-face beauty of Stage 4 of the Tour du Mont Blanc
The finally option for if you’re crunched on time is to just do day hikes
from Chamonix or from Courmayeur and there is a cable car, The
Aigulle du Midi, that takes you over the mountain from Chamonix to
Courmayeur (or vice versa).
Anti-clockwise has now become the traditional way to hike the TMB
and the benefit of hiking this way is that since it is the more common
way to hike it, you’ll be moving with the flow of traffic and may often
run into the same people. This could be a positive or a negative
depending on the person.
By hiking it clockwise you will likely not see a single person for the
first half of your morning. Though anti-clockwise is the more popular
direction, clockwise is growing in popularity so you will still have
:
some of the aspect of meeting up with the same hikers throughout
your trek.
The good thing is that you’re never that far from civilization, but keep
in mind that there are parts that are far enough away that if
something happened, you would absolutely need a mountain rescue,
which is why we highly recommend looking into travel insurance.
If you are following the traditional 11 day route and reserve your
refugios and hotels like outlined in Overview of the Stages of the
TMB, you will not have trouble finding food, entertainment, and a hot
shower along the way.
With that being said, there are many ways to make it easier, whether
bypassing some strenuous sections or taking cable cars to minimize
the impact of the steep downhills.
:
Not all effort can be avoided, however, and if too many
challenges are avoided, then you’d miss out on the true
goal of taking on this quest.
Technically speaking, there are a few sheer cliffs, some ladders (that
can be avoided), and exposure that under ideal circumstances are
perfectly safe. But in the Alps, normal doesn’t exist and the only
certainty is uncertainty.
Weather patterns change quick and there are remote sections that
would require a mountain rescue. Not to scare you out of doing it, but
rather to encourage you to be smart about it. It’s very cheap to travel
with travel insurance from World Nomads and then you can hike
knowing that if something were to go wrong, you’d be covered.
With the exception of 1 day, September brought sunny skies for our entire 7 day trek
The UTMB is an ultra marathon race that follows the Tour du Mont
Blanc hiking route. Top runners can finish the entire 100 miles in less
than one day. Crazy, huh?!
Because they have to reach certain cutoffs in allowed times for each
stage, we only hiked half a day with the runners and while we were
very careful to stay out of their way and not disrupt their pace, for the
:
most part we we’re hiking uphill at the same rate as the racers and it
was fun to feel the energy of being a part of such an incredible
athletic feat.
Point being, it’s not a big deal if you end up timing your trek with the
UTMB. If anything, so many hikers are under the impression that you
want to avoid this time of year that I almost think that’s part of the
reason the trail was so uncrowded in late August.
This weather report for Chamonix is usually pretty accurate for the
entire French side and gives you a general idea for the TMB but
weather on the Courmayeur side often differs from the Chamonix
side.
:
La Flegere decsent, Tour du mont blanc, French alps
Even in our state of frustration from our painful descent, we couldn’t help but be awe stricken by the sunset
that graced Chamonix Valley
Plus, each day you’ll be going over mountain passes at much higher
elevations than Chamonix and Courmayeur so expect days to feel
hotter and nights cooler at the passes or Refugios.
You can also check out my blog How To Train For A Strenuous Hike
for some tips to make sure you are fully prepared.
If you aren’t an avid hiker but have the desire to take on this
incredible journey, set up a free consult with Victor
(victor@nomadswithapurpose.com) and he can get you set up on a
program to make sure you are in your best conditioning for this once
in a lifetime experience.
Siesta is a thing. Many businesses close from about 1-4 p.m. and
some even longer than this.
While I’ve provided you with a lot of information and these blogs will
help tremendously with your planning, I loved that I could stop along
the trail and see how much further I had to go or to double check that
I was on the right path.
High or low route? That is the question…Using our TMB map to plan out our route for the day
You could get this map too but I honestly didn’t need it for the TMB.
If you plan on doing hikes in the area around Chamonix, then
definitely grab it.
Every ounce counts on the TMB and that’s why we’ve put together a
complete list of everything you need to pack, and everything you
shouldn’t pay for for the Tour du Mont Blanc.
The information provided below with elevation and times are from
Cicerone’s guide.
For the most part, we hiked uphill faster than the estimated time but
then took time enjoying the views so the overall time listed was pretty
spot on for us. I think most people should plan on this being the
actual hiking time and add a little time to stop for picnics along the
way.
Lastly, there are ways to stick to this itinerary and still cut some
sections off with either buses or cable cars. All that information I’ve
included in the blog How to Fast pack the TMB.
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SARAH
Sunday 26th of March 2023
This blog has been SO HELPFUL!!!! I know it's late in the game
but I am trying to plan a trip this August. Unfortunately Rifugio
Bonatti is all booked and it looks like there are no other options
in that area. So my back up plan is to camp between
COURMAYEUR TO LA FOULY. I came across Camping
Grandes Jorasses in another blog. Do you think this is the best
bet since the Rifugio Bonatti is all booked or should I try to push
it from COURMAYEUR TO LA FOULY in one day? I think thats
around 20 miles? What are your thoughts?
Robyn
Tuesday 25th of April 2023
Robyn
Saturday 24th of December 2022
Atashi Mandal
Monday 26th of July 2021
Gabi
Tuesday 27th of July 2021
I have been reading a lot about TMB for next year hike and your
article is very clear and precise! It helps me to plan for my trip.
Thank you.
Robyn
Tuesday 20th of April 2021
angie
Thursday 27th of August 2020
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